yellow wax in 900 parts of oil of turpentine; aside from this mix
well together, all the ingredients being finely powdered, 10 parts of
Prussian blue, 5 parts of indigo, 50 parts of bone black, and work this
into a portion of the above-mentioned waxy solution. Now throw this
into the original solution, which still remains in the water bath, and
stir it vigorously until the mass becomes homogeneous, after which pour
it into any convenient earthenware receptacle.
II.—Best glue, 4 ounces; good vinegar, 1 1/2 pints; best gum arabic,
2 ounces; good black ink, 1/2 pint; best isinglass, 2 drachms.
Dissolve the gum in the ink, and melt the isinglass in another vessel
in as much hot water as will cover it. Having first steeped the glue
in the vinegar until soft, dissolve it completely by the aid of heat,
stirring to prevent burning. The heat should not exceed 180° F. Add
the gum and ink, and allow the mixture to rise again to the same
temperature. Lastly mix the solution in isinglass, and remove from
fire. When {451} used, a small portion must be heated until fluid, and
then applied with a sponge and allowed to dry on.
«Dressings for Harness.»—
I.—Ox blood, fresh and well purified 100 parts
Glycerine, technical 20 parts
Turpentine oil 30 parts
Pine oil 50 parts
Ox gall 20 parts
Formalin 1 1/2 parts
The raw materials are stirred together cold in the order named. Pour
the mixture through thin linen. It imparts a wonderful mild, permanent
gloss.
II.—A French harness dressing of good quality consists of oil of
turpentine, 900 parts; yellow wax, 90 parts; Berlin blue, 10 parts;
indigo, 5 parts; and bone black, 50 parts. Dissolve the yellow wax
in the oil of turpentine with the aid of moderate heat in a water
bath, mix the remaining substances, which should previously be well
pulverized, and work them with a small portion of the wax solution.
Finally, add the rest of the wax solution, and mix the whole well in
the water bath. When a homogeneous liquid has resulted, pour it into
earthen receptacles.
«Harness Oils.»—
I.—Neatsfoot oil 10 ounces
Oil of turpentine 2 ounces
Petrolatum 4 ounces
Lampblack 1/2 ounce
Mix the lampblack with the turpentine and the neatsfoot oil, melt the
petrolatum and mix by shaking together.
II.—Black aniline 35 grains
Muriatic acid 50 minims
Bone black 175 grains
Lampblack 18 grains
Yellow wax 2 1/2 av. ounces
Oil of turpentine 22 fluidounces
III.—Oil of turpentine 8 fluidounces
Yellow wax 2 av. ounces
Prussian blue 1/2 av. ounce
Lampblack 1/4 av. ounce
Melt the wax, add the turpentine, a portion first to the finely
powdered Prussian blue and lampblack, and thin with neatsfoot oil.
«Harness Pastes.»—
I.—Ceresine, natural yellow 1.5 parts
Yellow beeswax 1.5 parts
Japan wax 1.5 parts
Melt on the water bath, and when half cooled stir in 8 parts of
turpentine oil.
«Harness Grease.»—
By weight
II.—Ceresine, natural yellow 2.5 parts
Beeswax, yellow 0.8 parts
French colophony, pale 0.4 parts
III.—French oil turpentine 2.0 parts
Intimately mixed in the cold
with American lampblack 1.5 parts
Put mixture I in a kettle and melt over a fire. Remove from the fire
and stir in mixture II in small portions. Then pour through a fine
sieve into a second vessel, and continue pouring from one kettle into
the other until the mass is rather thickish. Next fill in cans.
Should the mixture have become too cold during the filling of the cans,
the vessel containing the grease need only be placed in hot water,
whereby the contents are rendered liquid again, so that pouring out is
practicable. For perfuming, use cinnamon oil as required.
This harness grease is applied by means of a rag and brushed.
«Waterproof Harness Composition.»—
See also Waterproofing.
By weight
Rosin spirit 27 1/4 parts
Dark mineral oil 13 1/2 parts
Paraffine scales 16.380 parts
Lampblack 7.940 parts
Dark rosin 5.450 parts
Dark syrup 5.450 parts
Naphthalene black 2.500 parts
Berlin blue 0.680 parts
Mirbane oil 0.170 parts
Melt the paraffine and the rosin, add the mineral oil and the rosin
spirit, stir the syrup and the pigments into this, and lastly add the
mirbane oil.
«PATENT AND ENAMELED LEATHER.»
Patent leather for boots and shoes is prepared from sealskins, enameled
leather for harness from heavy bullock’s hides. The process of tanning
is what is called “union tannage” (a mixture of oak and hemlock barks).
These tanned skins are subjected to the process of soaking, unhairing,
liming, etc., and are then subjected to the tanning process. When about
one-third tanned a buffing is taken off (if the hides are heavy), and
the hide is split into three layers. The top or grain side is reserved
for enameling in fancy colors for use on tops of carriages; the middle
layer is finished for splatter {452} boards and carriage trimmings, and
some parts of harness; the underneath layer, or flesh side is used for
shoe uppers and other purposes. The tanning of the splits is completed
by subjecting them to a gambier liquor instead of a bark liquor.
When the splits are fully tanned they are laid on a table and scored,
and then stretched in frames and dried, after which each one is covered
on one side with the following compound, so as to close the pores of
the leather that it may present a suitable surface for receiving the
varnish: Into 14 parts of raw linseed oil put 1 part dry white lead
and 1 part silver litharge, and boil, stirring constantly until the
compound is thick enough to dry in 15 or 20 minutes (when spread on a
sheet of iron or china) into a tough, elastic mass, like caoutchouc.
This compound is laid on one side of the leather while it is still
stretched in the frame. If for enameled leather (i. e., not the best
patent), chalk or yellow ocher may be mixed in the above compound while
boiling, or afterwards, but before spreading it on the leather.
The frames are then put into a rack in a drying closet, and the coated
leather dried by steam heat at 80° to 160° F., the heat being raised
gradually. After removal from the drying closet, the grounding
coat previously laid on is pumiced, to smooth out the surface, and
then given 2 or 3 coats of the enameling varnish, which consists of
Prussian blue and lampblack boiled with linseed oil and diluted with
turpentine, so as to enable it to flow evenly over the surface of the
coated leather. When spread on with a brush, each coating of the enamel
is dried before applying the next, and pumiced or rubbed with tripoli
powder on a piece of flannel (the coat last laid on is not subjected to
this rubbing), when the leather is ready for market.
To prepare the enameling composition, boil 1 part asphaltum with 20
parts raw linseed oil until thoroughly combined; then add 10 parts
thick copal varnish, and when this mixture is homogeneous dilute with
20 parts spirit of turpentine.
Instead of the foregoing enameling varnish the following is used for
superior articles:
Prussian blue 18 ounces
Vegetable black 4 ounces
Raw linseed oil 160 fluidounces
Boil together as previously directed, and dilute with turpentine as
occasion requires. These enameling varnishes should be made and kept
several weeks in the same room as the varnishing is carried on, so that
they are always subjected to the same temperature.
«STAINS FOR PATENT LEATHER:»
«Black Stain.»—
Vinegar 1 gallon
Ivory black 14 ounces
Ground iron scales 6 pounds
Mix well and allow to stand a few days.
«Red Stain.»—Water, 1 quart; spirit of hartshorn, 1 quart; cochineal,
1/4 pound. Heat the water to near the boiling point, and then
dissolve in it the cochineal, afterwards adding the spirit of
hartshorn. Stir well to incorporate.
«Liquid Cochineal Stain.»—
Good French carmine 2 1/2 drachms
Solution of potash 1/2 ounce
Rectified spirit of wine 2 ounces
Pure glycerine 4 ounces
Distilled water to make 1 pint.
To the carmine in a 20-ounce bottle add 14 ounces of distilled water.
Then gradually introduce solution of potash, shaking now and again
until dissolved. Add glycerine and spirit of wine, making up to 20
ounces with distilled water, and filter.
«Blue Black.»—Ale droppings, 2 gallons; bruised galls, 1/2 pound;
logwood extract, 1/4 pound; indigo extract, 2 ounces; sulphate of
iron, 3 1/2 ounces. Heat together and strain.
«Finishers’ Ink.»—Soft water, 1 gallon; logwood extract, 1 1/4
ounces; green vitriol, 2 1/2 ounces; potassium bichromate, 1/2
ounce; gum arabic, 1/2 ounce.
Grind the gum and potassium bichromate to powder and then add all the
coloring ingredients to the water and boil.
«To Restore Patent Leather Dash.»—Take raw linseed oil, 1 part; cider
vinegar, 4 ounces; alcohol, 2 ounces; butter of antimony, 1 ounce; aqua
ammonia, 1/2 ounce; spirits of camphor, 1/2 ounce; lavender, 1/2
ounce. Shake well together; apply with a soft brush.
«PRESERVATIVES FOR LEATHER.»
I.—Mutton suet 50 parts
Sweet oil 50 parts
Turpentine 1 part
Melt together.
The application should be made on the dry leather warmed to the point
where it will liquefy and absorb the fat.
II.—Equal parts of mutton fat and linseed oil, mixed with one-tenth
their {453} weight of Venice turpentine, and melted together in an
earthen pipkin, will produce a “dubbin” which is very efficacious in
preserving leather when exposed to wet or snow, etc. The mixture should
be applied when the leather is quite dry and warm.
III.—A solution of 1 ounce of solid paraffine in 1 pint light naphtha,
to which 6 drops of sweet oil have been added, is put cold on the
soles, until they will absorb no more. One dressing will do for the
uppers. This process is claimed to vastly increase the tensile strength.
«Patent Leather Preserver.»—
Carnauba wax 1.0 part
Turpentine oil 9.5 parts
Aniline black, soluble in fat 0.06 parts
Melt the wax, stir in the turpentine oil and the dye and scent with
a little mirbane oil or lavender oil. The paste is rubbed out on the
patent leather by means of a soft rag, and when dry should be polished
with a soft brush.
«REVIVERS AND REGENERATORS.»
By weight.
I.—Methylic alcohol 22 1/2 parts
Ground ruby shellac 2.250 parts
Dark rosin 0.910 parts
Gum rosin 0.115 parts
Sandarac 0.115 parts
Lampblack 0.115 parts
Aniline black, spirit-soluble 0.115 parts
The gums are dissolved in spirit and next the aniline black soluble
in spirit is added; the lampblack is ground with a little liquid to a
paste, which is added to the whole, and filtering follows.
Kid Reviver.—
By weight.
II.—Clear chloride of lime solution 3.5 parts
Spirit of sal ammoniac 0.5 parts
Scraped Marseilles soap 4.5 parts
Water 6.0 parts
Mix chloride of lime solution and spirit of sal ammoniac and stir in
the soap dissolved in water. Revive the gloves with the pulpy mass
obtained, by means of a flannel rag.
«TANNING LEATHER.»
«Pickling Process.»—Eitner and Stiazny have made a systematic series of
experiments with mixtures of salt and various acids for pickling skins
preparatory to tanning. Experiments with hydrochloric acid, acetic and
lactic acids showed that these offered no advantages over sulphuric
acid for use in pickling, the pickled pelts and the leather produced
from them being similar in appearance and quality. By varying the
concentration of the pickle liquors, it was found that the amount of
salt absorbed by the pelt from the pickle liquor was controlled by the
concentration of the solution, 23 to 25 per cent of the total amount
used being taken up by the pelt, and that the absorption capacity of
the pelt for acid was limited.
The goods pickled with the largest amount of acid possessed a more
leathery feel and after drying were fuller and stretched much better
than those in which smaller amounts of acids were employed. Dried,
pickled pieces, containing as much as 3 per cent of sulphuric acid,
showed no deterioration or tendering of fiber. The pickled skins after
chrome tanning still retained these characteristics. An analysis of the
leather produced by tanning with sumac showed that no free acid was
retained in the finished leather. An Australian pickled pelt was found
to contain 19.2 per cent of salt and 2.8 per cent of sulphuric acid.
From a very large number of experiments the following conclusions were
drawn: 1. That sulphuric acid is quite equal in efficiency to other
acids for the purpose. 2. To a certain limit increasing softness is
produced by increasing the quantity of acid used. 3. For naturally soft
skins and when a leather not very soft is required the best results are
obtained by using 22 pounds of salt, 2.2 pounds of sulphuric acid, and
25 gallons of water for 110 pounds of pelt in the drum. 4. For material
which is naturally hard and when a soft leather is required, the amount
of acid should be increased to 4.4 pounds, using similar amounts as
those given above of pelt, salt, and water.
«French Hide Tanning Process.»—I.—The prepared pelts are submitted to
a 3 to 4 hours’ immersion in a solution of rosin soap, containing 5 to
10 per cent of caustic soda. The goods are afterwards placed in a 6 to
12 per cent solution of a salt of chromium, iron, copper, or aluminum
(preferably aluminum sulphate) for 3 to 4 hours.
II.—The hides are soaked in a solution of sodium carbonate of 10° Bé.
for 3 to 6 hours. After washing with water they are allowed to remain
for 5 hours in {454} a bath of caustic soda, the strength of which
may vary from 2° to 30° Bé. From this they are transferred to a bath
of hydrochloric acid (1° to 5° Bé.) in which they remain for 2 hours.
Finally the hides are washed and the beam-work finished in the usual
way. The tannage consists of a special bath of sodium or ammonium
sulphoricinoleate (2 to 30 per cent) and sumac extract, or similar
tanning material (2 to 50 per cent). The strength of this bath is
gradually raised from 4° to 30° or 40° Bé.
«Tanning Hides for Robes.»—The hides should be very thoroughly soaked
in order to soften them completely. For dry hides this will require a
longer time than for salted. A heavy hide requires longer soaking than
a skin. Thus it is impossible to fix a certain length of time. After
soaking, the hide is fleshed clean, and is now ready to go into the tan
liquor, which is made up as follows: One part alum; 1 part salt; 1/4
to 1/2 part japonica. These are dissolved in hot water in sufficient
quantity to make a 35° liquor. The hide, according to the thickness, is
left in the tan from 5 to 10 days. Skins are finished in about 2 or 3
days. The hide should be run in a drum for about 2 hours before going
into tan, and again after that process. In tanning hides for robes,
shaving them down is a main requisite for success, as it is impossible
to get soft leather otherwise. After shaving put back into the tan
liquor again for a day or two and hang up to dry. When good and hard,
shave again and lay away in moist sawdust and give a heavy coat of oil.
When dry, apply a solution of soft soap; roll up and lay away in moist
sawdust again. Run the hides on a drum or wheel until thoroughly soft.
The composition of the tan liquor may be changed considerably. If the
brownish tinge of the japonica be objectionable, that article may be
left out entirely. The japonica has the effect of making the robe more
able to resist water, as the alum and salt alone are readily soaked out
by rain.
«Lace Leather.»—Take cow hides averaging from 25 to 30 pounds each; 35
hides will make a convenient soak for a vat containing 1,000 gallons
of water, or 25 hides to a soak of 700 gallons. Soak 2 days or more,
as required. Change water every 24 hours. Split and flesh; resoak if
necessary. When thoroughly soft put in limes. Handle and strengthen
once a day, for 5 or 6 days. Unhair and wash. Bathe in hen manure,
90° F. Work out of drench, wash well, drain 4 of 5 hours. Then process,
using 45 pounds vitriol and 600 pounds of soft water to 700 gallons
of water. In renewing process for second or consecutive packs, use 15
pounds vitriol and 200 pounds salt, always keeping stock constantly in
motion during time of processing. After processing, drain over night,
then put in tan in agitated liquors, keeping the stock in motion during
the whole time of tanning. Pack down overnight. Use 200 pounds dry
leather to each mill in stuffing.
For stuffing, use 3 gallons curriers’ hard grease and 3 gallons
American cod oil. Strike out from mill, on flesh. Set out on grain. Dry
slowly. Trim and board, length and cross. The stock is then ready to
cut. The time for soaking the hides may be reduced one-half by putting
the stock into a rapidly revolving reel pit, with a good inflow of
water, so that the dirty water washes over and runs off. After 10 hours
in the soak, put the stock into a drum, and keep it tumbling 5 hours.
This produces soft stock.
In liming, where the saving of the hair is no object, softer leather is
obtainable by using 35 pounds sulphide of sodium with 60 pounds lime.
Then, when the stock comes from the limes, the hair is dissolved and
immediately washes off, and saves the labor of unhairing and caring
for the hair, which in some cases does not pay.
«MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES:»
«Russian Leather.»—This leather owes its name to the country of its
origin. The skins used for its production are goat, large sheep,
calfskin, and cow or steer hide. The preliminary operations of soaking,
unhairing, and fleshing are done in the usual manner, and then the
hides are permitted to swell in a mixture of rye flour, oat flour,
yeast, and salt. This compound is made into a paste with water, and
is then thinned with sufficient water to steep a hundred hides in the
mixture. The proportions of ingredients used for this mixture are 22
pounds rye flour, 10 pounds oat flour, a little salt, and sufficient
yeast to set up fermentation.
The hides are steeped in this compound for 2 days, until swelled up,
and then put into a solution of willow and poplar barks, in which
they are allowed to remain 8 days, being frequently turned about. The
tanning process is then completed by putting them into a tanning liquor
composed of pine and willow barks, equal parts. They are steeped 8 days
in this liquor, and then a {455} fresh liquor of the same ingredients
and proportions is made up. The hides are hardened and split, and then
steeped in the freshly made liquor for another 8 days, when they are
sufficiently tanned.
The hides are then cut down the middle (from head to tail) into sides,
and scoured, rinsed, and dried by dripping, and then passed on to
the currier, who slightly dampens the dry sides and puts them in a
heap or folds them together for a couple of days to temper, and then
impregnates them with a compound consisting of 2/3 parts birch oil
and 1/3 parts seal oil. This is applied on the flesh side for light
leather, and on the grain side also for heavy leather. The leather is
then “set out,” “whitened,” and well boarded and dried before dyeing.
A decoction of sandalwood, alone or mixed with cochineal, is used for
producing the Russian red color, and this dye liquor is applied several
times, allowing each application to dry before applying the following
one. A brush is used, and the dye liquor is spread on the grain side.
A solution of tin chloride is used in Russia as a mordant for the
leather before laying on the dye. The dye liquor is prepared by boiling
18 ounces of sandalwood in 13 pints of water for 1 hour, and then
filtering the liquid and dissolving in the filtering fluid 1 ounce of
prepared tartar and soda, which is then given an hour’s boiling and set
aside for a few days before use.
After dyeing, the leather is again impregnated with the mixture of
birch and seal oils (applied to the grain side on a piece of flannel)
and when the dyed leather has dried, a thin smear of gum-dragon
mucilage is given to the dyed side to protect the color from fading,
while the flesh side is smeared with bark-tan juice and the dyed
leather then grained for market.
«Toughening Leather.»—Leather is toughened and also rendered impervious
by impregnating with a solution of 1 part of caoutchouc or gutta-percha
in 16 parts of benzene or other solvent, to which is added 10 parts of
linseed oil. Wax and rosin may be added to thicken the solution.
«Painting on Leather.»—When the leather is finished in the tanneries
it is at the same time provided with the necessary greasy particles
to give it the required pliancy and prevent it from cracking. It is
claimed that some tanners strive to obtain a greater weight thereby,
thus increasing their profit, since a pound of fat is only one-eighth
as dear as a pound of leather.
If such leather, so called kips, which are much used for carriage
covers and knee caps, is to be prepared for painting purposes, it is
above all necessary to close up the pores of the leather, so that
the said fat particles cannot strike through. They would combine
with the applied paint and prevent the latter from drying, as the
grease consists mainly of fish oil. For this reason an elastic spirit
leather varnish is employed, which protects the succeeding paint coat
sufficiently from the fat.
For further treatment take a good coach varnish to which 1/4 of stand
oil (linseed oil which has thickened by standing) has been added and
allow the mixture to stand for a few days. With this varnish grind the
desired colors, thinning them only with turpentine oil. Put on 2 coats.
In this manner the most delicate colors may be applied to the leather,
only it is needful to put on pale and delicate shades several times.
In some countries the legs or tops of boots are painted yellow, red,
green, or blue in this manner. Inferior leather, such as sheepskin and
goat leather, which is treated with alum by the tanner, may likewise
be provided with color in the manner stated. Subsequently it can be
painted, gilded, or bronzed.
«Stains for Oak Leather.»—I.—Apply an intimate mixture of 4 ounces of
umber (burnt or raw); 1/2 ounce of lampblack, and 17 fluidounces ox
gall.
II.—The moistened leather is primed with a solution of 1 part, by
weight, of copper acetate in 50 parts of water, slicked out and then
painted with solution of yellow prussiate potash in feebly acid water.
LEATHER AS AN INSULATOR: See Insulation.
LEATHER CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Cements.
LEATHER-CLEANING PROCESSES: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
LEATHER, GLUES FOR: See Adhesives.
LEATHER LAC: See Lacquers.
LEATHER LUBRICANTS: See Lubricants. {456}
LEATHER VARNISH: See Varnish.
LEATHER WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.
«LEMONS:»
See also Essences, Extracts, and Fruits.
«Preservation of Fresh Lemon Juice.»—The fresh juice is cleared by
gently heating it with a little egg albumen, without stirring the
mixture. This causes all solid matter to sink with the coagulated
white, or to make its way to the surface. The juice is then filtered
through a woolen cloth and put into bottles, filled as full as
possible, and closed with a cork stopper, in such a way that the cork
may be directly in contact with the liquid. Seal at once and keep in a
cool place. The bottles should be asepticized with boiling water just
before using.
LEMON EXTRACT (ADULTERATED), TESTS FOR: See Foods.
LEMON SHERBET POWDER: See Salts, Effervescent.
LEMONADES, LEMONADE POWDERS, AND LEMONADE DROPS: See Beverages.
LEMONADE POWDER: See Salts, Effervescent.
«LENSES AND THEIR CARE:»
«Unclean Lenses» (see also Cleaning Preparations and Methods).—If in
either objective or eyepiece the lenses are not clean, the definition
may be seriously impaired or destroyed. Uncleanliness may be due
to finger marks upon the front lens of the objective, or upon the
eyepiece lenses; dust which in time may settle upon the rear lens of
the objective or on the eye lens; a film which forms upon one or the
other lens, due occasionally to the fact that glass is hygroscopic, but
generally to the exhalation from the interior finish of the mountings,
and, in immersion objectives, because the front lens is not properly
cleaned; or oil that has leaked on to its rear surface, or air bubbles
that have formed in the oil between the cover glass and front lens.
Remedy.—Keep all lenses scrupulously clean. For cleaning, use
well-washed linen (an old handkerchief) or Japanese lens paper.