Ammonium sulphate 52 parts
Ferrous sulphate 4 parts
II.—Sodium chloride 8 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 6 parts
Sodium sulphate 2 parts
Calcium chloride 2 parts
Sodium silicate 2 parts
III.—Sodium chloride 6 parts
Ammonium chloride 6 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 8 parts
IV.—Ammonium chloride 10 parts
Sodium sulphate 6 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 4 parts
«Oil Extinguisher.»—To extinguish oils which have taken fire, a
fine-meshed wire net of the size of a boiling pan should be kept on
hand in every varnish factory, etc. In the same moment when the netting
is laid upon the burning surface, the flame is extinguished because
it is a glowing mass of gas, which the iron wire quickly cools off so
that it cannot glow any more. The use of water is excluded, and that of
earth and sand undesirable, because both dirty the oil.
«Substitute for Fire Grenades.»—A common quart bottle filled with
a saturated solution of common salt makes a cheap and efficient
substitute for the ordinary hand grenade. The salt forms a coating on
all that the water touches and makes it nearly incombustible.
«Fireproofing»
«For Textiles.»—I.—Up to the present this has generally been
accomplished by the use of a combination of water glass or soluble
glass and tungstate of soda. The following is cheaper and more suitable
for the purpose:
Equal parts, by weight, of commercial white copperas, Epsom salt, and
sal ammoniac are mingled together and mixed with three times their
weight of ammonia alum. This mixture soon changes into a moist pulp or
paste, that must be dried by a low heat. When dressing the material,
add 1/2 part of this combination to every 1 part of starch.
II.—Good results are also obtained from the following formula:
Supersaturate a quantity of superphosphate of lime with ammonia,
filter, and decolorize it with animal charcoal. Concentrate the
solution and mix with it 5 per cent of gelatinous silica, evaporate the
water, dry, and pulverize. For use mix 30 parts of this powder with
35 parts of gum and 35 parts of starch in sufficient water to make of
suitable consistency.
III.—As a sample of the Melunay process, introduced in France, the
following has been published: Apply to a cotton fabric like flannellet,
or other cotton goods, a solution of stannate of soda (or a salt
chemically equivalent) of the strength of 5 to 10° Bé., then dry the
fabric and saturate it again, this time with a solution of a titanium
salt; any soluble titanium salt is suitable. This salt should be
so concentrated that each 1,000 parts may contain about 62 parts
of titanium oxide. The fabrics are again dried, and the titanium
is ultimately fixed by means of a suitable alkaline bath. It is
advantageous to employ for this purpose a solution of silicate of soda
of about 14° Bé., but a mixed bath, composed of tungstate of soda and
ammonium chloride, may be employed. The objects are afterwards washed,
dried, and finished as necessary for trade. A variation consists in
treating the objects in a mixed bath containing titanium, tungsten, and
a suitable solvent.
IV.—Boil together, with constant {342} stirring, the following
ingredients until a homogeneous mass results:
Linseed oil 77 parts
Litharge 10 parts
Sugar of lead 2 parts
Lampblack 4 parts
Oil turpentine 2 parts
Umber 0.4 parts
Japanese wax 0.3 parts
Soap powder 1.2 parts
Manila copal 0.7 parts
Caoutchouc varnish 2 parts
V.—For Light Woven Fabrics.—Ammonium sulphate, 8 parts, by weight;
ammonium carbonate, 2.5 parts; borax, 2; boracic acid, 3; starch, 2;
or dextrin, 0.4, or gelatin, 0.4; water, 100. The fabric is to be
saturated with the mixture, previously heated to 86° F., and dried; it
can then be calendered in the ordinary way. The cost is only 2 or 3
cents for 16 yards or more of material.
VI.—For Rope and Straw Matting.—Ammonium chloride (sal ammoniac), 15
parts, by weight; boracic acid, 6 parts; borax, 3; water, 100. The
articles are to be left in the solution, heated to 212° F. for about 3
hours, then squeezed out and dried. The mixture costs about 5 cents a
quart.
VII.—For Clothing.—The following starch is recommended: Sodium
tungstate, perfectly neutral, 30 parts; borax, 20; wheat or rice
starch, 60. The constituents are to be finely pulverized, sharply
dried, and mixed, and the starch used like any other. Articles
stiffened with it, if set on fire, will not burst into flame, but only
smolder.
VIII.—For Tents.—
Water 100 parts by weight
Ammonium sulphate, chemically pure 14 parts by weight
Boracic acid 1 parts by weight
Hartshorn salt 1 parts by weight
Borax 3 parts by weight
Glue water 2 parts by weight
Boil the water, put ammonium sulphate into a vat, pour a part of the
boiling water on and then add the remaining materials in rotation. Next
follow the rest of the hot water. The vat should be kept covered until
the solution is complete.
IX.—For Stage Decorations.—Much recommended and used as a fireproofing
composition is a cheap mixture of borax, bitter salt, and water;
likewise for canvas a mixture of ammonium sulphate, gypsum, and water.
Ammonium sulphate and sodium tungstate are also named for impregnating
the canvas before painting.
X.—For Mosquito Netting.—Immerse in a 20 per cent solution of ammonium
sulphate. One pound of netting will require from 20 to 24 ounces of
the solution to thoroughly saturate. After withdrawing from the bath,
do not wring it out, but spread it over a pole or some such object,
and let it get about half dry, then iron it out with a hot iron. The
material (ammonium sulphate) is inoffensive.
«Fireproofing of Wood.»—Strictly speaking, it is impossible to render
wood completely incombustible, but an almost absolute immunity against
the attacks of fire can be imparted.
Gay-Lussac was one of the first to lay down the principal conditions
indispensable for rendering organic matters in general, and wood in
particular, uninflammable.
During the whole duration of the action of the heat the fibers must
be kept from contact with the air, which would cause combustion. The
presence of borates, silicates, etc., imparts this property to organic
bodies.
Combustible gases, disengaged by the action of the heat, must be
mingled in sufficient proportion with other gases difficult of
combustion in such a way that the disorganization of bodies by heat
will be reduced to a simple calcination without production of flame.
Salts volatile or decomposable by heat and not combustible, like
certain ammoniacal salts, afford excellent results.
Numerous processes have been recommended for combating the
inflammability of organic tissues, some consisting in external
applications, others in injection, under a certain pressure, of saline
solutions.
By simple superficial applications only illusory protection is
attained, for these coverings, instead of fireproofing the objects
on which they are applied, preserve them only for the moment from a
slight flame. Resistance to the fire being of only short duration,
these coatings scale off or are rapidly reduced to ashes and the parts
covered are again exposed. It often happens, too, that such coatings
have disappeared before the occurrence of a fire, so that the so-called
remedy becomes injurious from the false security occasioned. {343}
Some formulas recommended are as follows:
I.—For immersion or imbibition the following solution is advised:
Ammonium phosphate, 100 parts; boracic acid, 10 parts per 1,000; or
ammonium sulphate, 135 parts; sodium borate, 15 parts; boracic acid, 5
parts per 1,000. For each of these formulas two coats are necessary.
II.—For application with the brush the following compositions are the
best:
_a._ Apply hot, sodium silicate, 100 parts; Spanish white, 50 parts;
glue, 100 parts.
_b._ Apply successively and hot; for first application, water, 100
parts; aluminum sulphate, 20 parts; second application, water, 100
parts; liquid sodium silicate, 50 parts.
_c._ First application, 2 coats, hot; water, 100 parts; sodium
silicate, 50 parts; second application, 2 coatings; boiling water, 75
parts; gelatin, white, 200 parts; work up with asbestos, 50 parts;
borax, 30 parts; and boracic acid, 10 parts.
Oil paints rendered uninflammable by the addition of phosphate of
ammonia and borax in the form of impalpable powders incorporated in
the mass, mortar of plaster and asbestos and asbestos paint, are still
employed for preserving temporarily from limited exposure to a fire.
III.—Sodium silicate, solid 350 parts
Asbestos, powdered 350 parts
Water, boiling 1,000 parts
Mix. Give several coatings, letting each dry before applying the next.
IV.—Asbestos, powdered 35 parts
Sodium borate 20 parts
Water 100 parts
Gum lac 10 to 15 parts
Dissolve the borax in the water by the aid of heat, and in the hot
solution dissolve the lac. When solution is complete incorporate the
asbestos. These last solutions give a superficial protection, the
efficiency of which depends upon the number of coatings given.
V.—Prepare a syrupy solution of sodium silicate, 1 part, and water,
3 parts, and coat the wood 2 to 3 times, thus imparting to it
great hardness. After drying, it is given a coating of lime of the
consistency of milk, and when this is almost dry, is fixed by a strong
solution of soluble glass, 2 parts of the syrupy mass to 3 parts of
water. If the lime is applied thick, repeat the treatment with the
soluble glass.
VI.—Subject the wood or wooden objects for 6 to 8 hours to the boiling
heat of a solution of 33 parts of manganese chloride, 20 parts of
orthophosphoric acid, 12 parts of magnesium carbonate, 10 parts of
boracic acid, and 25 parts of ammonium chloride in 1,000 parts of
water. The wood thus treated is said to be perfectly incombustible
even at great heat, and, besides, to be also protected by this method
against decay, injury by insects, and putrefaction.
VII.—One of the simplest methods is to saturate the timber with a
solution of tungstate of soda; if this is done in a vacuum chamber, by
means of which the wood is partly deprived of the air contained in its
cells, a very satisfactory result will be obtained. Payne’s process
consists in treating wood under these conditions first with solution of
sulphate of iron, and then with chloride of calcium; calcium sulphate
is thus precipitated in the tissues of the timber, which is rendered
incombustible and much more durable. There are several other methods
besides these, phosphate of ammonia and tungstate being most useful.
A coat of common whitewash is an excellent means of lessening the
combustibility of soft wood.
«Fireproofing Wood Pulp.»—The pulp is introduced into a boiler
containing a hot solution of sulphate and phosphate of ammonia and
provided with a stirring and mixing apparatus, as well as with an
arrangement for regulating the temperature. After treatment, the pulp
is taken out and compressed in order to free it from its humidity.
When dry, it may be used for the manufacture of paper or for analogous
purposes. Sawdust treated in the same manner may be used for packing
goods, for deadening walls, and as a jacketing for steam pipes.
«Fireproofing for Wood, Straw, Textiles, etc.»—The material to be made
fireproof is treated with a solution of 10 to 20 parts of potassium
carbonate and 4 to 8 parts of ammonium borate in 100 parts of water.
Wherever excessive heat occurs, this compound, which covers the
substance, is formed into a glassy mass, thus protecting the stuff from
burning; at the same time a considerable amount of carbonic acid is
given off, which smothers the flames. {344}
«MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS FOR FIREPROOFING.»
I.—In coating steel or other furnaces, first brush over the brickwork
to be covered a solution made by boiling 1 pound each of silicate
of soda and alum in 4 gallons of water, and follow immediately with
composition:
Silica 50 parts
Plastic fire clay 10 parts
Ball clay 3 parts
Mix well.
Fireproof Compositions.—II.—For furnaces, etc.:
Pure silica (in grain) 60 parts
Ground flint 8 parts
Plaster of Paris 3 parts
Ball clay 3 parts
Mix well together by passing once or more through a fine sieve, and use
in the same way as cement.
Fireproof Paper.—Paper is rendered fireproof by saturating it with a
solution of
Ammonium sulphate 8 parts
Boracic acid 3 parts
Borax 2 parts
Water 100 parts
For the same purpose sodium tungstate may also be employed.
Fireproof Coating.—A fireproof coating (so-called) consists of water,
100 parts; strong glue, 20 parts; silicate of soda, 38° Bé., 50 parts;
carbonate of soda, 35 parts; cork in pieces of the size of a pea, 100
parts.
Colored Fireproofing.—I.—Ammonium sulphate, 70 parts; borax, 50 parts;
glue, 1 part; and water up to 1,000 parts.
II.—Solution of glue, 5 parts, zinc chloride, 2 parts; sal ammoniac, 80
parts; borax, 57 parts; and water up to 700 parts.
If the coating is to be made visible by coloration, an addition of
10 parts of Cassel brown and 6 parts of soda per 1,000 parts is
recommended, which may be dissolved separately in a portion of the
water used.
FIREPROOFING CELLULOID: See Celluloid.
FIREPROOFING OF PAPER: See Paper.
FIREWORKS: See Pyrotechnics.
FILIGREE GILDING: See Plating.
«FISH BAIT.»
Oil of rhodium 3 parts
Oil of cumin 2 parts
Tincture of musk 1 part
Mix. Put a drop or two on the bait, or rub trigger of trap with the
solution.
«FIXATIVES FOR CRAYON DRAWINGS, ETC.»
I.—Shellac 40 parts by weight
Sandarac 20 parts by weight
Spirit of wine 940 parts by weight
II.—During the Civil War, when both alcohol and shellac often were
not purchasable, and where, in the field especially, ink was almost
unknown, and sized paper, of any description, a rarity, men in the
field were compelled to use the pencil for correspondence of all
sorts. Where the communication was of a nature to make its permanency
desirable, the paper was simply dipped in skim milk, which effected the
purpose admirably. Such documents written with a pencil on unsized
paper have stood the wear and rubbing of upward of 40 years.
To Fix Pounced Designs.—Take beer or milk or alcohol, in which a little
bleached shellac has been dissolved, and blow one of these liquids upon
the freshly pounced design by means of an atomizer. After drying, the
drawing will have the desired fixedness.
FIXING BATHS FOR PAPER AND NEGATIVES: See Photography.
FLANNELS, WHITENING OF: See Laundry Preparations.
FLASH-LIGHT APPARATUS AND POWDERS: See Photography.
FLAVORINGS: See Condiments.
FLEA DESTROYERS: See Insecticides.
FLIES IN THE HOUSE: See Household Formulas.
FLIES AND PAINT: See Paint.
«Floor Dressings»
(See also Paint, Polishes, Waxes, and Wood.)
«Oil Stains for Hard Floors.»—I.—Burnt sienna, slate brown, or wine
black, is ground with strong oil varnish in the paint mill. The glazing
color obtained {345} is thinned with a mixture of oil of turpentine
and applied with a brush on the respective object. The superfluous
stain is at once wiped away with a rag, so that only the absorbed stain
remains in the wood. If this is uneven, go over the light places again
with dark stain. In a similar manner all otherwise tinted and colored
oil stains are produced by merely grinding the respective color with
the corresponding addition of oil. Thus, green, red, and even blue
and violet shades on wood can be obtained, it being necessary only
to make a previous experiment with the stains on a piece of suitable
wood. In the case of soft wood, however, it is advisable to stain the
whole previously with ordinary nut stain (not too dark), and only after
drying to coat with oil stain, because the autumn rings of the wood
take no color, and would appear too light, and, therefore, disturb the
effect.
II.—Boil 25 parts, by weight, of fustic and 12 parts of Brazil wood
with 2,400 parts of soapmakers’ lye and 12 parts of potash, until
the liquid measures about 12 quarts. Dissolve in it, while warm, 30
parts of annatto and 75 of wax, and stir until cold. There will be a
sufficient quantity of the brownish-red stain to keep the floor of a
large room in good order for a year. The floor should be swept with
a brush broom daily, and wiped up twice a week with a damp cloth,
applying the stain, when necessary, to places where there is much wear,
and rubbing it in with a hard brush. Every 6 weeks put the stain all
over the floor, and brush it in well.
III.—Neatsfoot oil 1 part
Cottonseed oil 1 part
Petroleum oil 1 part
IV.—Beeswax 8 parts
Water 56 parts
Potassium carbonate 4 parts
Dissolve the potash in 12 parts of water; heat together the wax and the
remaining water till the wax is liquefied; then mix the two and boil
together until a perfect emulsion is effected. Color, if desired, with
a solution of annatto.
V.—Paraffine oil 8 parts
Kerosene 1 part
Limewater 1 part
Mix thoroughly. A coat of the mixture is applied to the floor with a
mop.
«Paraffining of Floors.»—The cracks and joints of the parquet floor
are filled with a putty consisting of Spanish white, 540 parts;
glue, 180 parts; sienna, 150 parts; umber, 110 parts; and calcareous
earth, 20 parts. After 48 hours apply the paraffine, which is
previously dissolved in petroleum, or preferably employed in a boiling
condition, in which case it will enter slightly into the floor. When
solidification sets in, the superfluous paraffine is scratched off and
an even, smooth surface of glossy color results, which withstands acids
and alkalies.
«Ball-Room Floor Powder.»—
Hard paraffine 1 pound
Powdered boric acid 7 pounds
Oil lavender 1 drachm
Oil neroli 20 minims
Melt the paraffine and add the boric acid and the perfumes. Mix well,
and sift through a 1/16 mesh sieve.
«Renovating Old Parquet Floors.»—Caustic soda lye, prepared by boiling
for 45 minutes with 1 part calcined soda, and 1 part slaked lime with
15 parts water, in a cast-iron pot, is applied to the parquet to be
renovated by means of a cloth attached to a stick. After a while
rub off the floor with a stiff brush, fine sand, and a sufficient
quantity of water, to remove the dirt and old wax. Spread a mixture of
concentrated sulphuric acid and water in the proportion of 1 to 8 on
the floor. The sulphuric acid will remove the particles of dirt and
wax which have entered the floor and enliven the color of the wood.
Finally, wax the parquet after it has been washed off with water and
dried completely.
FLOOR OIL: See Oils.
FLOOR PAPER: See Paper.
FLOOR POLISH: See Polishes.
FLOOR VARNISHES: See Varnishes.
FLOOR WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.
FLOOR WAX: See Waxes.
FLORICIN OIL: See Oil.
«FLOWER PRESERVATIVES.»
I.—To preserve flowers they should be dipped in melted paraffine,
which should be just hot enough to maintain its fluidity. The flowers
should be dipped one at a time, held by the stalks and moved about for
an instant to get rid of air bubbles. Fresh cut flowers, free from
moisture, {346} are said to make excellent specimens when treated in
this way. A solution in which cut flowers may be kept immersed is made
as follows:
Salicylic acid 20 grains
Formaldehyde 10 minims
Alcohol 2 fluidounces
Distilled water 1 quart
II.—The English method of preserving flowers so as to retain their form
and color is to imbed the plants in a mixture of equal quantities of
plaster of Paris and lime, and gradually heat them to a temperature of
100° F. After this the flower looks dusty, but if it is laid aside for
an hour so as to absorb sufficient moisture to destroy its brittleness,
it can be dusted without injury. To remove the hoary appearance which
is often left, even after dusting, a varnish composed of 5 ounces
of dammar and 16 ounces of oil of turpentine should be used and a
second coat given if necessary. When the gum has been dissolved in
the turpentine, 16 ounces of benzoline should be added, and the whole
should be strained through fine muslin.
III.—Five hundred parts ether, 20 parts transparent copal, and 20 parts
sand. The flowers should be immersed in the varnish for 2 minutes,
then allowed to dry for 10 minutes, and this treatment should be
repeated 5 or 6 times.
IV.—Place the flowers in a solution of 30 grains of salicylic acid in 1
quart of water.
V.—Moisten 1,000 parts of fine white sand that has been previously well
washed and thoroughly dried and sifted, with a solution consisting of 3
parts of stearine, 3 parts of paraffine, 3 parts of salicylic acid, and
100 parts of alcohol. Work the sand up thoroughly so that every grain
of it is impregnated with the mixture, and then spread it out and let
it become perfectly dry. To use, place the flowers in a suitable box,
the bottom of which has been covered with a portion of the prepared
sand, and then dust the latter over them until all the interstices
have been completely filled with it. Close the box lightly and put it
in a place where it can be maintained at a temperature of from 86° to
104° F. for 2 or 3 days. At the expiration of this time remove the box
and let the sand escape. The flowers can then be put into suitable
receptacles or glass cases without fear of deterioration. Wilted or
withered flowers should be freshened up by dipping into a suitable
aniline solution, which will restore their color.
VI.—Stand the flowers upright in a box of proper size and pour over
and around them fine dry sand, until the flowers are completely
surrounded in every direction. Leave them in this way for 8 or 10 days,
then carefully pour off the sand. The flowers retain their color and
shape perfectly, but in very fleshy, juicy specimens the sand must be
renewed. To be effective the sand must be as nearly dry as possible.
VII.—A method of preserving cut flowers in a condition of freshness
is to dissolve small amounts of ammonium chloride, potassium nitrate,
sodium carbonate or camphor in the water into which the stems are
inserted. The presence of one or more of these drugs keeps the flowers
from losing their turgidity by stimulating the cells to action and by
opposing germ growth. Flowers that have already wilted are said to
revive quickly if the stems are inserted in a weak camphor water.
«Stuccoed Gypsum Flowers.»—Take natural flowers, and coat the lower
sides of their petals and stamens with paraffine or with a mixture of
glue, gypsum, and lime, which is applied lightly. Very fine parts of
the flowers, such as stamens, etc., may be previously supported by
special attachments of textures, wire, etc. After the drying of the
coating the whole is covered with shellac solution or with a mixture
of glue, gypsum, lime with lead acetate, oil, mucilage, glycerine,
colophony, etc. If desired, the surface may be painted with bronzes in
various shades. Such flowers are much employed in the shape of festoons
for decorating walls, etc.
«Artificial Coloring of Flowers.»—A method employed by florists to
impart a green color to the white petals of “carnation pinks” consists
in allowing long-stemmed flowers to stand in water containing a green
aniline dye. When the flowers are fresh they absorb the fluid readily,
and the dye is carried to the petals.
Where the original color of the flower is white, colored stripes
can be produced upon the petals by putting the cut ends into water
impregnated with a suitable aniline dye. Some dyes can thus be taken up
by the capillary action of the stem and deposited in the tissue of the
petal. If flowers are placed over a basin of water containing a very
small amount of ammonia in a bell glass, the colors of the petals will
generally show some marked change. Many violet-colored flowers when
so treated will become {347} green, and if the petals contain several
tints they will show greens where reds were, yellows where they were
white, and deep carmine will become black. When such flowers are put
into water they will retain their changed colors for hours.
If violet asters are moistened with very dilute nitric acid, the ray
florets become red and acquire an agreeable odor.
FLUID MEASURES: See Weights and Measures.
«FLUORESCENT LIQUIDS.»
Æsculin gives pale blue by (1) reflected light, straw color by (2)
transmitted light.
Amido-phthalic acid, pale violet (1), pale yellow (2).
Amido-terephthalic acid, bright green (1), pale green (2).
Eosine, yellow green (1), orange (2).
Fluorescein, intense green (1), orange yellow (2).