Fraxin, blue green (1), pale green (2).

Magdala red, opaque scarlet (1), brilliant carmine (2).

Quinine, pale blue (1), no color (2).

Safranine, yellow red (1), crimson (2).

FLUXES USED IN ENAMELING: See Enameling.

FLUXES FOR SOLDERING: See Soldering.

«Fly-Papers and Fly-Poisons»

(See also Insecticides.)

«Sticky Fly-Papers.»—The sticky material applied to the paper is the

following:

I.—Boiled linseed oil 5 to 7 parts

Gum thus 2 to 3 parts

Non-drying oil 3 to 7 parts

For the non-drying oil, cottonseed, castor, or neatsfoot will answer—in

fact, any of the cheaper oils that do not readily dry or harden will

answer. The proper amount of each ingredient depends upon the condition

of the boiled oil. If it is boiled down very stiff, more of the other

ingredients will be necessary, while if thin, less will be required.

II.—Rosin 8 parts

Rapeseed oil 4 parts

Honey 1 part

Melt the rosin and oil together, and incorporate the honey. Two parts

of raw linseed oil and 2 parts of honey may be used along with 8 parts

of rosin instead of the foregoing. Use paper already sized, as it comes

from the mills, on which to spread the mixture.

III.—Castor oil 12 ounces

Rosin 27 ounces

Melt together and spread on paper sized with glue, using 12 ounces glue

to 4 pints water.

IV.—Rosin 8 ounces

Venice turpentine 2 ounces

Castor oil 2 ounces

Spread on paper sized with glue.

«Poisonous Fly-Papers.»—

I.—Quassia chips 150 parts

Chloride of cobalt 10 parts

Tartar emetic 2 parts

Tincture of long pepper (1 to 4) 80 parts

Water 400 parts

Boil the quassia in the water until the liquid is reduced one-half,

strain, add the other ingredients, saturate common absorbent paper with

the solution, and dry. The paper is used in the ordinary way.

II.—Potassium bichromate 10 ounces

Sugar 3 drachms

Oil of black pepper 2 drachms

Alcohol 2 ounces

Water 14 ounces

Mix and let stand for several days, then soak unsized paper with the

solution.

III.—Cobalt chloride 4 drachms

Hot water 16 ounces

Brown sugar 1 ounce

Dissolve the cobalt in the water and add the sugar, saturate unsized

paper in the solution, and hang up to dry.

IV.—Quassia chips 150 parts

Cobalt chloride 10 parts

Tartrate antimony 2 parts

Tincture of pepper 80 parts

Water 400 parts

Boil chips in the water until the volume of the latter is reduced

one-half, add other ingredients and saturate paper and dry.

«Fly-Poison.»—

Pepper 4 ounces

Quassia 4 ounces

Sugar 8 ounces

Diluted alcohol 4 ounces

Mix dry and sprinkle around where the flies can get it.

«Non-Poisonous Fly-Papers.»—I.—Mix 25 parts of quassia decoction (1:10)

with 6 parts of brown sugar and 3 parts of ground pepper, and place on

flat dishes.

II.—Mix 1 part of ground pepper and 1 part of brown sugar with 16 parts

milk {348} or cream, and put the mixture on flat plates.

III.—Macerate 20 parts of quassia wood with 100 parts of water for 24

hours, boil one-half hour, and squeeze off 24 hours. The liquid is

mixed with 3 parts of molasses, and evaporated to 10 parts. Next add

1 part of alcohol. Soak blotting paper with this mixture, and put on

plates.

IV.—Dissolve 5 parts of potassium bichromate, 15 parts of sugar, and 1

part of essential pepper oil in 60 parts of water, and add 10 parts of

alcohol. Saturate unsized paper with this solution and dry well.

V.—Boil together for half an hour

Ground quassia wood 18 pounds

Broken colocynth 3 pounds

Ground long pepper 5 pounds

Water 80 pounds

Then percolate and make up to 60 pounds if necessary with more water.

Then add 4 pounds of syrup. Unsized paper is soaked in this, and dried

as quickly as possible to prevent it from getting sour.

VI.—Mix together

Ordinary syrup 100 ounces

Honey 30 ounces

Extract of quassia wood 4 ounces

Oil of aniseed, a few drops.

«Removing the Gum of Sticky Fly-Paper.»—The “gum” of sticky fly-paper

that has “leaked” over furniture and shelfware can be removed without

causing injury to either furniture or bottles.

The “gum” of sticky fly-paper, while being quite adhesive, is easily

dissolved with alcohol (grain or wood) or oil of turpentine. Alcohol

will not injure the shelfware, but it should not be used on varnished

furniture; in the latter case turpentine should be used.

FLY PROTECTIVES FOR ANIMALS: See Insecticides.

«FOAM PREPARATIONS.»

A harmless gum cream is the following:

I.—Digest 100 parts of Panama wood for 8 days with 400 parts of water

and 100 parts of spirits of wine (90 per cent). Pour off without strong

pressure and filter.

For every 5 parts of lemonade syrup take 5 parts of this extract,

whereby a magnificent, always uniform foam is obtained on the lemonade.

II.—Heat 200 parts of quillaia bark with distilled water during an hour

in a vapor bath, with frequent stirring, and squeeze out. Thin with

water if necessary and filter.

«FOOD ADULTERANTS, SIMPLE TESTS FOR THEIR DETECTION.»

Abstract of a monograph by W. D. Bigelow and Burton J. Howard,

published by the Department of Agriculture.

Generally speaking, the methods of chemical analysis employed in food

laboratories can be manipulated only by one who has had at least

the usual college course in chemistry, and some special training in

the examination of foods is almost as necessary. Again, most of the

apparatus and chemicals necessary are entirely beyond the reach of the

home, and the time consumed by the ordinary examination of a food is in

itself prohibitive.

Yet there are some simple tests which serve to point out certain forms

of adulteration and can be employed by the careful housewife with the

reagents in her medicine closet and the apparatus in her kitchen. The

number may be greatly extended by the purchase of a very few articles

that may be procured for a few cents at any drug store. In applying

these tests, one general rule must always be kept carefully in mind.

Every one, whether layman or chemist, must familiarize himself with a

reaction before drawing any conclusions from it. For instance, before

testing a sample of supposed coffee for starch, the method should

be applied to a sample of pure coffee (which can always be procured

unground) and to a mixture of pure coffee and starch prepared by the

operator.

Many manufacturers and dealers in foods have the ordinary senses so

highly developed that by their aid alone they can form an intelligent

opinion of the nature of a product, or of the character, and sometimes

even of the proportion of adulterants present. This is especially true

of such articles as coffee, wine, salad oils, flavoring extracts,

butter, and milk. The housewife finds herself constantly submitting

her purchases to this test. Her broad experience develops her senses

of taste and smell to a high degree, and her discrimination is often

sharper and more accurate than she herself realizes. The manufacturer

who has developed his natural senses most {349} highly appreciates best

the assistance or collaboration of the chemist, who can often come to

his relief when his own powers do not avail. So the housewife, by a few

simple chemical tests, can broaden her field of vision and detect many

impurities that are not evident to the senses.

There are here given methods adapted to this purpose, which may be

applied to milk, butter, coffee, spices, olive oil, vinegar, jams and

jellies, and flavoring extracts. In addition to this some general

methods for the detection of coloring matter and preservatives will be

given. All of the tests here described may be performed with utensils

found in any well-appointed kitchen. It will be convenient, however,

to secure a small glass funnel, about 3 inches in diameter, since

filtration is directed in a number of the methods prescribed. Filter

paper can best be prepared for the funnel by cutting a circular piece

about the proper size and folding it once through the middle, and then

again at right angles to the first fold. The paper may then be opened

without unfolding in such a way that three thicknesses lie together on

one side and only one thickness on the other. In this way the paper may

be made to fit nicely into the funnel.

Some additional apparatus, such as test tubes, racks for supporting

them, and glass rods, will be found more convenient for one who desires

to do considerable work on this subject, but can be dispensed with.

The most convenient size for test tubes is a diameter of from 1⁠/⁠2 to

5⁠/⁠8 inch, and a length of from 5 to 6 inches. A graduated cylinder

will also be found very convenient. If this is graduated according to

the metric system, a cylinder containing about 100 cubic centimeters

will be found to be convenient; if the English liquid measure is used

it may be graduated to from 3 to 8 ounces.

«Chemical Reagents.»—The word “reagent” is applied to “any substance

used to effect chemical change in another substance for the purpose

of identifying its component parts or determining its percentage

composition.” The following reagents are required in the methods here

given:

Turmeric paper.

Iron alum (crystal or powdered form).

Hydrochloric acid† (muriatic acid), concentrated.

Iodine tincture.

Potassium permanganate, 1 per cent solution.

Alcohol (grain alcohol).

Chloroform.

Boric acid or borax.

Ammonia water.

Halphen’s reagent.

────────────────────────────

† Caution.—All tests in which hydrochloric acid is used should be

conducted in glass or earthenware, for this acid attacks and will

injure metal vessels. Care must also be taken not to bring it into

contact with the flesh or clothes. If, by accident, a drop of it falls

upon the clothes, ammonia, or in its absence a solution of saleratus

or sal soda (washing soda), in water, should be applied promptly.

With the exception of the last reagent mentioned, these substances may

be obtained in any pharmacy. The Halphen reagent should be prepared by

a druggist, certainly not by an inexperienced person.

It is prepared as follows: An approximately 1 per cent solution

of sulphur is made by dissolving about 1⁠/⁠3 of a teaspoonful of

precipitated sulphur in 3 or 4 ounces of carbon bisulphide. This

solution mixed with an equal volume of amyl alcohol forms the reagent

required by the method. A smaller quantity than that indicated by these

directions may, of course, be prepared.

If turmeric paper be not available it may be made as follows: Place a

bit of turmeric powder (obtainable at any drug store) in alcohol, allow

it to stand for a few minutes, stir, allow it to stand again until it

settles, dip a strip of filter paper into the solution, and dry it.

«Determination of Preservatives.»—The following methods cover all of

the more important commercial preservatives with the exception of

sulphites and fluorides. These are quite frequently used for preserving

foods—the former with meat products and the latter with fruit

products—but, unfortunately, the methods for their detection are not

suitable for household use.

«Detection of Salicylic Acid.»—The determination of salicylic acid

can best be made with liquids. Solid and semi-solid foods, such as

jelly, should be dissolved, when soluble, in sufficient water to make

them thinly liquid. Foods containing insoluble matter, such as jam,

marmalade, and sausage, may be macerated with water and strained

through a piece of white cotton cloth. The maceration may be performed

by rubbing in a teacup or other convenient vessel with a heavy spoon.

Salicylic acid is used for preserving {350} fruit products of all

kinds, including beverages. It is frequently sold by drug stores as

fruit acid. Preserving powders consisting entirely of salicylic acid

are often carried from house to house by agents. It may be detected as

follows:

Between 2 and 3 ounces of the liquid obtained from the fruit products,

as described above, are placed in a narrow bottle holding 5 ounces,

about a quarter of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar (or, better,

a few drops of sulphuric acid) is added, the mixture shaken for 2

or 3 minutes, and filtered into a second small bottle. Three or 4

tablespoonfuls of chloroform are added to the clear liquid in the

second bottle and the liquids mixed by a somewhat vigorous rotary

motion, poured into an ordinary glass tumbler, and allowed to stand

till the chloroform settles out in the bottom. Shaking is avoided,

as it causes an emulsion which is difficult to break up. As much as

possible of the chloroform layer (which now contains the salicylic

acid) is removed (without any admixture of the aqueous liquid) by means

of a medicine dropper and placed in a test tube or small bottle with

about an equal amount of water and a small fragment—a little larger

than a pinhead—of iron alum. The mixture is thoroughly shaken and

allowed to stand till the chloroform again settles to the bottom. The

presence of salicylic acid is then indicated by the purple color of the

upper layer of liquid.

«Detection of Benzoic Acid.»—Benzoic acid is also used for preserving

fruit products. Extract the sample with chloroform as in the case

of salicylic acid; remove the chloroform layer and place it in a

white saucer, or, better, in a plain glass sauce dish. Set a basin

of water—as warm as the hand can bear—on the outside window ledge

and place the dish containing the chloroform extract in it, closing

the window until the chloroform has completely evaporated. In this

manner the operation may be conducted with safety even by one who is

not accustomed to handling chloroform. In warm weather the vessel of

warm water may, of course, be omitted. Benzoic acid, if present in

considerable amount, will now appear in the dish in characteristic

flat crystals. On warming the dish the unmistakable irritating odor

of benzoic acid may be obtained. This method will detect benzoic

acid in tomato catsup or other articles in which it is used in large

quantities. It is not sufficiently delicate, however, for the smaller

amount used with some articles, such as wine. It is often convenient to

extract a larger quantity of the sample and divide the chloroform layer

into two portions, testing one for salicylic acid and the other for

benzoic acid.

«Detection of Boric Acid and Borax.»—Boric acid (also called boracic

acid) and its compound with sodium (borax) are often used to preserve

animal products, such as sausage, butter, and sometimes milk. For the

detection of boric acid and borax, solids should be macerated with a

small amount of water and strained through a white cotton cloth. The

liquid obtained by treating solids in this manner is clarified somewhat

by thoroughly chilling and filtering through filter paper.

In testing butter place a heaping teaspoonful of the sample in a

teacup, add a couple of teaspoonfuls of hot water, and stand the cup in

a vessel containing a little hot water until the butter is thoroughly

melted. Mix the contents of the cup well by stirring with a teaspoon

and set the cup with the spoon in it in a cold place until the butter

is solid. The spoon with the butter (which adheres to it) is now

removed from the cup and the turbid liquid remaining strained through a

white cotton cloth, or, better, through filter paper. The liquid will

not all pass through the cloth or filter paper, but a sufficient amount

for the test may be secured readily.

In testing milk for boric acid 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of milk are placed

in a bottle with twice that amount of a solution of a teaspoonful of

alum in a pint of water, shaken vigorously, and filtered through filter

paper. Here again a clear or only slightly turbid liquid passes through

the paper.

About a teaspoonful of the liquid obtained by any one of the methods

mentioned above is placed in any dish, not metal, and 5 drops of

hydrochloric (muriatic) acid added. A strip of turmeric paper is dipped

into the liquid and then held in a warm place—near a stove or lamp—till

dry. If boric acid or borax was present in the sample the turmeric

paper becomes bright cherry red when dry. A drop of household ammonia

changes the red color to dark green or greenish black. If too much

hydrochloric acid is used the turmeric paper may take on a brownish-red

color even in the absence of boric acid. In this case, however, ammonia

changes the color to brown just as it does turmeric paper which has not

been dipped into the acid solution. {351}

«Detection of Formaldehyde.»—Formaldehyde is rarely used with other

foods than milk. The method for its detection in milk is given later.

For its detection in other foods it is usually necessary first to

separate it by distillation, a process which is scarcely available for

the average person without laboratory training and special apparatus.

For this reason no method is suggested here for the detection of

formaldehyde in other foods than milk.

«Detection of Saccharine.»—Saccharine has a certain preservative power,

but it is used not so much for this effect as because of the very

sweet taste which it imparts. It is extracted by means of chloroform,

as described under the detection of salicylic acid. In the case of

solid and semi-solid foods, the sample must, of course, be prepared by

extraction with water, as described under salicylic acid. The residue

left after the evaporation of the chloroform, if a considerable amount

of saccharine is present, has a distinctly sweet taste.

* * * * *

The only other substance having a sweet taste which may be present

in foods, i. e., sugar, is not soluble in chloroform, and therefore

does not interfere with this reaction. Certain other bodies (tannins)

which have an astringent taste are present, and as they are soluble

in chloroform may sometimes mask the test for saccharine, but with

practice this difficulty is obviated.

«Determination of Artificial Colors: Detection of Coal-Tar

Dyes.»—Coloring matters used with foods are usually soluble in water.

If the food under examination be a liquid, it may therefore be treated

directly by the method given below. If it be a solid or a pasty

substance, soluble in water either in the cold or after heating, it

may be dissolved in sufficient water to form a thin liquid. If it

contains some insoluble material, it may be treated with sufficient

water to dissolve the soluble portion with the formation of a thin

liquid and filtered, and then strained through a clean white cotton

cloth to separate the insoluble portion. About a half teacupful of

the liquid thus described is heated to boiling, after adding a few

drops of hydrochloric acid and a small piece of white woolen cloth or

a few strands of white woolen yarn. (Before using, the wool should be

boiled with water containing a little soda, to remove any fat it may

contain, and then washed with water.) The wool is again washed, first

with hot and then with cold water, the water pressed out as completely

as possible, and the color of the fabric noted. If no marked color is

produced, the test may be discontinued and the product considered free

from artificial colors. If the fabric is colored, it may have taken

up coal-tar colors, some foreign vegetable colors, and if a fruit

product is being examined, some of the natural coloring matter of the

fruit. Rinse the fabric in hot water, and then boil for 2 or 3 minutes

in about one-third of a teacupful of water and 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls

of household ammonia. Remove and free from as much of the liquid as

possible by squeezing or wringing. Usually the fabric will retain the

greater part of the natural fruit color, while the coal-tar color

dissolves in dilute ammonia. The liquid is then stirred with a splinter

of wood and hydrochloric acid added, a drop or two at a time, until

there is no longer any odor of ammonia. (The atmosphere of the vessel

is sometimes charged with the ammonia for several minutes after it has

all been driven out of the liquid; therefore one should blow into the

dish to remove this air before deciding whether the ammonia odor has

been removed or not.) When enough acid has been added the liquid has

a sour taste, as may be determined by touching the splinter, used in

stirring, to the tongue.

A fresh piece of white woolen cloth is boiled in this liquid and

thoroughly washed. If this piece of cloth has a distinct color the food

under examination is artificially colored. The color used may have been

a coal-tar derivative, commonly called an aniline dye, or an artificial

color chemically prepared from some vegetable color. If of the first

class the dyed fabric is usually turned purple or blue by ammonia. In

either case, if the second fabric has a distinct color, it is evident

that the product under examination is artificially colored. Of course a

dull, faint tint must be disregarded.

«Detection of Copper.»—The presence of copper, often used to deepen

the green tint of imported canned peas, beans, spinach, etc., may be

detected as follows:

Mash some of the sample in a dish with a stiff kitchen spoon. Place a

teaspoonful of the pulp in a teacup with 3 teaspoonfuls of water and

add 30 drops of strong hydrochloric acid with a medicine dropper. Set

the cup on the stove in a saucepan containing boiling water. Drop a

bright iron brad or nail (wire nails are the best and tin carpet tacks

{352} will not answer the purpose) into the cup and keep the water in

the saucepan boiling for 20 minutes, stirring the contents of the cup

frequently with a splinter of wood. Pour out the contents of the cup

and examine the nail. If present in an appreciable amount the nail will

be heavily plated with copper.

Caution.—Be careful not to allow the hydrochloric acid to come in

contact with metals or with the flesh or clothing.

«Detection of Turmeric.»—In yellow spices, especially mustard and

mace, turmeric is often employed. This is especially true of prepared

mustard to which a sufficient amount of starch adulterant has been

added to reduce the natural color materially. If turmeric be employed

to restore the normal shade an indication of that fact may sometimes be

obtained by mixing a half teaspoonful of the sample in a white china

dish and mixing with it an equal amount of water, and a few drops (4

to 10) of household ammonia, when a marked brown color, which does

not appear in the absence of turmeric, is formed. At the present time

turmeric or a solution of curcuma (the coloring matter of turmeric)

is sometimes added to adulterated mustard in sufficient amount to

increase its color, but not to a sufficient extent to give the brown

appearance with ammonia described above. In such cases a teaspoonful

of the suspected sample may be thoroughly stirred with a couple of

tablespoonfuls of alcohol, the mixture allowed to settle for 15 minutes

or more, and the upper liquid poured off into a clean glass or bottle.

To about 1 tablespoonful of the liquid thus prepared and placed in a

small, clear dish (a glass salt cellar serves excellently) add 4 or 5

drops of a concentrated solution of boric acid or borax and about 10

drops of hydrochloric acid, and mix the solution by stirring with a

splinter of wood. A wedge-shaped strip of filter paper, about 2 or 3

inches long, 1 inch wide at the upper end, and 1⁠/⁠4 inch at the lower

end, is then suspended by pinning, so that its narrow end is immersed

in the solution, and is allowed to stand for a couple of hours. The

best results are obtained if the paper is so suspended that air can

circulate freely around it, i. e., not allowing it to touch anything

except the pin and the liquid in the dish. If turmeric be present a

cherry-red color forms on the filter paper a short distance below the

upper limit to which the liquid is absorbed by the paper, frequently

from 3⁠/⁠4 of an inch to an inch above the surface of the liquid

itself. A drop of household ammonia changes this red color to a dark

green, almost black. If too much hydrochloric acid is used a dirty

brownish color is produced.

Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes · 第 58 / 139 段