«Purifying Oils and Fats.»—In purifying fatty oils and fats for edible

purposes the chief thing is to remove the free fatty acids, which is

done by the aid of solutions of alkalies and alkaline earths. The

subsequent precipitation of the resulting soapy emulsions, especially

when lime is used, entails prolonged heating to temperatures sometimes

as high as the boiling point of water. Furthermore, the amount of

alkalies taken is always greater than is chemically necessary, the

consequence being that some of the organic substances present are

attacked, and malodorous products are formed, a condition necessitating

the employment of animal charcoal, etc., as deodorizer.

To prevent the formation of these untoward products, which must

injuriously affect the quality of edible oils, C. Fresenius proposes

to accelerate the dispersion of the said emulsions by subjecting

the mixtures to an excess pressure of 1 to 1 1⁠/⁠2 atmospheres and

a corresponding temperature of about 220° F., for a short time, the

formation of decomposition products, and any injurious influence on

the taste and smell of the substance being prevented by the addition

of fresh charcoal, etc., beforehand. Charcoal may, and must in certain

cases, be replaced for this purpose by infusorial earth or fuller’s

earth. When this process is applied to cottonseed oil, 100 parts of

the oil are mixed with 1⁠/⁠10 part of fresh, pure charcoal, and 1⁠/⁠2

part of pure fuller’s earth. The mixture is next neutralized with

lime-water, and placed in an autoclave, where it is kept for an hour

under pressure, and at a temperature of 220° F. Under these conditions

the emulsion soon separates, and when this is accomplished the whole is

left to cool down in a closed vessel.

FATS, DECOMPOSITION OF: See Oil.

«FEATHER BLEACHING AND COLORING:»

See also Dyes.

«Bleaching and Coloring Feathers.»—Feathers, in their natural state,

are not adapted to undergo the processes of dyeing and bleaching; they

must be prepared by removing their oil and dirt. This is usually done

by washing them in moderately warm soap and water, and rinsing in

warm and cold water; or the oil may be chemically removed by the use

of benzine. To remove it entirely, the feathers must be left in the

cleansing fluid from a half hour to an hour, when they may be subjected

to the process of bleaching.

«Bleaching Plumes.»—Plumes may be almost entirely bleached by the use

of hydrogen peroxide, without injuring their texture.

In specially constructed glass troughs, made the length of an average

ostrich feather, 15 or 20 of these feathers can be treated at a time.

The bleaching fluid is made from a 30 per cent solution of hydrogen

peroxide, with enough ammonia added to make it neutral; in other words

when neutral, blue litmus paper will not turn red, and red will take

a pale violet tinge. The previously cleansed feathers are entirely

immersed in this bleaching bath, which may be diluted if desired. The

trough is covered with a glass plate and put in a dark place. From

time to time the feathers are stirred and turned, adding more hydrogen

peroxide. This process requires 10 to 12 hours and if necessary should

be repeated. After bleaching they are rinsed in distilled water or rain

water, dried in the air, and kept in motion while drying.

To insure success in coloring feathers in delicate tints, they must

be free from all impurities, and evenly white. It has been found of

advantage to rub the quill of heavy ostrich plumes while still moist

with carbonate of ammonia before the dyeing is begun.

«Methods of Dyeing Feathers.»—I.—A boiling hot neutral solution, the

feathers to be dried in a rotating apparatus. Suitable dyes for this

method are chrysoidin, {336} A, C; crystal vesuvin, 4 B C; phosphin

extra, leather yellow, O H; leather red, O, G B; leather brown, O;

morocco red, O; azophocphine, G O, B R O; fuchsine, cerise, G R;

grenadine, O; safranine, O; methylene violet, malachite green, crystal

brilliant green, methylene green, methylene gray, coal black II.

II.—A boiling hot sulphuric solution. Dyes, acid fuchsine, orseilline,

R B; acid cerise, O; acid maroon, O; opal blue, blue de lyon, R B;

cotton blue, No. 2, China blue No. 2, naphthalene green, O; patent

blue, V A; fast blue, O R; fast blue black, O; deep black, G; azo

yellow, victorine yellow, orange No. 2, fast brown O, ponceau G R R R,

fast red O, Bordeaux, G B R.

III.—An acetic solution. Dyes, Bengal pink G B, phloxine G O, rosolan O

B O F, rhodamine O 4 G, eosine A G, erythrosine.

By appropriate mixtures of the dyes of any one class, plumes can be

dyed every possible color. After dyeing they are rinsed, and dried in a

rotating apparatus. The final process is that of curling, which is done

by turning them round and round over a gentle heat. For white feathers

a little sulphur may be burned in the fire; for black or colored ones

a little sugar.

IV.—The spray method. The solution of the dye to be used is put into

an atomizer, and the spray directed to that part of the feather which

it is desired to color. By using different colors the most marvelous

effects and most delicate transitions from one color to another are

obtained. Any kind of an atomizer can be used, the rubber bulb, pump,

or bellows; the result is the same.

FELT WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.

FERMENTATION PROCESS, FATTY ACID: See Fats.

FERMENTATION, PREVENTION OF: See Anti-Ferments and Wines and Liquors.

FERROUS OXALATE DEVELOPER: See Photography.

«Fertilizers»

(See also Phosphate, Artificial.)

«Plant Fertilizers.»—Plants are as sensitive to excessively minute

quantities of nutrient substances, such as salts of potassium, in the

soil, as they are to minute quantities of poisonous substances. Poisons

are said to be infinitely more sensitive reagents for the presence of

certain metallic salts than the most delicate chemical, the statement

having been made that a trace of copper which might be obtained by

distilling in a copper retort is fatal to the white and yellow lupin,

the castor-oil plant, and spirogyra. Coupin has found salts of silver,

mercury, copper, and cadmium especially fatal to plants. With copper

sulphate the limit of sensitiveness is placed at 1 in 700,000,000.

Devaux asserts that both phanerogams and cryptogams are poisoned by

solutions of salts of lead or copper diluted to the extent of 1 in

10,000,000, or less.

As a result of a series of experiments, Schloesing stated that the

nitrification of ammonium salts is not for all plants a necessary

preliminary to the absorption of nitrogen by the plant. While for some

plants, as for example buckwheat, the preferable form of the food

material is that of a nitrate, others, for instance, tropeolum, thrive

even better when the nitrogen is presented to them in an ammoniacal

form.

«Artificial Fertilizers for Pot Plants.»—Experiments on vegetation

have shown that a plant will thrive when the lacking substances are

supplied in a suitable form, e. g., in the following combinations:

I.—Calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, potassium phosphate, magnesium

phosphate, ferric phosphate (sodium chloride).

II.—Calcium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, potassium sulphate, magnesium

phosphate, iron chloride (or sulphate) (sodium silicate).

It is well known that in nature nitrates are formed wherever

decomposition of organic nitrogenous substances takes place in the

air, the ammonia formed by the decomposition being oxidized to nitric

acid. These conditions for the formation of nitrates are present in

nearly every cornfield, and they are also the cause of the presence of

nitrates in water that has its source near stables, etc. In Peruvian

guano nitrogen is present partly in the form of potassium nitrate,

partly as ammonium phosphate and sulphate. As a nitrate it acts more

rapidly than in the form of ammonia, but in the latter case the effect

is more lasting. Phosphoric acid occurs in guano combined with ammonia,

potash, and chiefly with lime, the last being slower and more lasting

in action than the others. {337}

Nearly all artificial fertilizers conform, more or less, to one of the

following general formulas:

I.—Artificial Flower Fertilizer.—

1 2 3

Ammonium nitrate 0.40 1.60 40.0 parts

Ammonium phosphate 0.20 0.80 20.0 parts

Potassium nitrate 0.25 1.00 25.0 parts

Ammonium chloride 0.05 0.20 5.0 parts

Calcium sulphate 0.06 0.24 6.0 parts

Ferrous sulphate 0.04 0.16 4.0 parts

──── ──── ─────

1.00 4.00 100.0 parts

Dissolve 1 part in 1,000 parts water, and water the flowers with it 2

or 3 times weekly. Dissolve 4 parts in 1,000 parts water, and water

with this quantity 10 or 12 pots of medium size.

II.—Compost for Indoor Plants.—

1 2 3

Ammonium sulphate 0.30 1.20 30.0 parts

Sodium chloride 0.30 1.20 30.0 parts

Potassium nitrate 0.15 0.60 15.0 parts

Magnesium sulphate 0.15 0.60 15.0 parts

Magnesium phosphate 0.04 0.20 4.0 parts

Sodium phosphate 0.06 0.24 6.0 parts

──── ──── ─────

1.00 4.00 100.0 parts

One part to be dissolved in 1,000 parts water and the flowers watered

up to 3 times daily. Dissolve 4 parts in 1,000 parts water, and water

with this solution daily:

III.—Plant Food Solution.—

1 2

Potassium chloride 0.16 or 12.5 parts

Calcium nitrate 0.71 or 58.0 parts

Magnesium sulphate 0.125 or 12.0 parts

Potassium phosphate 0.133 or 15.0 parts

Iron phosphate, recently precipitated 0.032 or 2.5 parts

───── ─────

1.160 or 100.0 parts

This turbid mixture (1 part in 1,000 parts) is used alternately with

water for watering a pot of about 1 quart capacity; for smaller or

larger pots in proportion. After using the amount indicated, the

watering is continued with water alone.

IV.—Fertilizer with Organic Matter, for Pot Flowers.—

Potassium nitrate 100.0 parts

Ammonium phosphate 100.0 parts

Phosphoric acid 2.5 parts

Simple syrup 1,000 parts

Add not more than 10 parts to 1,000 parts water, and water alternately

with this and with water alone. For cactaceæ, crassulaceæ, and similar

plants, which do not assimilate organic matter directly, use distilled

water instead of syrup.

Chlorotic plants are painted with a dilute iron solution or iron is

added to the soil, which causes them to assume their natural green

color. The iron is used in form of ferric chloride or ferrous sulphate.

V.—Sodium phosphate 4 ounces

Sodium nitrate 4 ounces

Ammonium sulphate 2 ounces

Sugar 1 ounce

Use 2 teaspoonfuls to a gallon of water.

VI.—Ammonium phosphate 30 parts

Sodium nitrate 25 parts

Potassium nitrate 25 parts

Ammonium sulphate 20 parts

Water 100,000 parts

One application of this a week is enough for the slower growing plants,

and 2 for the more rapid growing herbaceous ones.

VII.—Calcium phosphate 4 ounces

Potassium nitrate 1 ounce

Potassium phosphate 1 ounce

Magnesium sulphate 1 ounce

Iron (ferric) phosphate 100 grains

VIII.—Pot plants, especially flowering plants kept around the house,

should be treated to an occasional dose of the following:

Ammonium chloride 2 parts

Sodium phosphate 4 parts

Sodium nitrate 3 parts

Water 80 parts

Mix and dissolve. To use, add 25 drops to the quart of water, and use

as in ordinary watering.

IX.—Sugar 1 part

Potassium nitrate 2 parts

Ammonium sulphate 4 parts

X.—Ferric phosphate 1 part

Magnesium sulphate 2 parts

Potassium phosphate 2 parts

Potassium nitrate 2 parts

Calcium acid phosphate 8 parts

About a teaspoonful of either of these mixtures is added to a gallon of

water, and the plants sprinkled with the liquid.

For hastening the growth of flowers, the following fertilizer is

recommended: {338}

XI.—Potassium nitrate 30 parts

Potassium phosphate 25 parts

Ammonium sulphate 10 parts

Ammonium nitrate 35 parts

The following five are especially recommended for indoor use:

XII.—Sodium chloride 10 parts

Potassium nitrate 5 parts

Magnesium sulphate 5 parts

Magnesia 1 part

Sodium phosphate 2 parts

Mixed and bottled. Dissolve a teaspoonful daily in a quart of water and

water the plants with the solution.

XIII.—Ammonium nitrate 40 parts

Potassium nitrate 90 parts

Ammonium phosphate 50 parts

Two grams is sufficient for a medium-sized flower pot.

XIV.—Ammonium sulphate 10 parts

Sodium chloride 10 parts

Potassium nitrate 5 parts

Magnesium sulphate 5 parts

Magnesium carbonate 1 part

Sodium phosphate 20 parts

One teaspoonful to 1 quart of water.

XV.—Ammonium nitrate 40 parts

Ammonium phosphate 20 parts

Potassium nitrate 0.25 parts

Ammonium chloride 5 parts

Calcium sulphate 6 parts

Ferrous sulphate 4 parts

Dissolve 2 parts in 1,000 of water, and water the plants with the

solution.

XVI.—Potassium nitrate 20 parts

Potassium phosphate 25 parts

Ammonium sulphate 10 parts

Ammonium nitrate 35 parts

This mixture produces a luxuriant foliage. If blooms are desired,

dispense with the ammonium nitrate.

XVII.—Saltpeter, 5 parts; cooking salt, 10 parts; bitter salt, 5 parts;

magnesia, 1 part; sodium phosphate, 2 parts. Mix and fill in bottles.

Dissolve a teaspoonful in 1 3⁠/⁠4 pints of hot water, and water the

flower pots with it each day.

XVIII.—Ammonium sulphate, 30 parts; sodium chloride, 30 parts; potash

niter, 15 parts; magnesium sulphate, 15 parts; magnesium phosphate, 4

parts; sodium phosphate, 6 parts. Dissolve 1 part in 1,000 parts water,

and apply 3 times per day.

XIX.—Calcium nitrate, 71 parts; potassium chlorate, 15 parts; magnesium

sulphate, 12.5 parts; potassium phosphate, 13.3 parts; freshly

precipitated ferric phosphate, 3.2 parts. A solution of 1 in 1,000 of

this mixture is applied, alternating with water, to the plants. After

using a certain quantity, pour on only water.

XX.—Ammonium phosphate, 300 parts; sodium nitrate, 250 parts;

potassium nitrate, 250 parts; and ammonium sulphate, 200 parts, are

mixed together. To every 1,000 parts of water dissolve 2 parts of the

mixture, and water the potted plants once a week with this solution.

XXI.—Potash niter, 20 parts; calcium carbonate, 20 parts; sodium

chlorate, 20 parts; calcium phosphate, 20 parts; sodium silicate, 14

parts; ferrous sulphate, 1.5 parts. Dissolve 1 part of the mixture in

1,000 parts water.

«Preparing Bone for Fertilizer.»—Bone, in its various forms, is the only

one of the insoluble phosphates that is now used directly upon the

soil, or without other change than is accomplished by mechanical action

or grinding. The terms used to indicate the character of the bone

have reference rather to their mechanical form than to the relative

availability of the phosphoric acid contained in them. The terms raw

bone, fine bone, boiled and steamed bone, etc., are used to indicate

methods of preparation, and inasmuch as bone is a material which is

useful largely in proportion to its rate of decay, its fineness has an

important bearing upon availability, since the finer the bone the more

surface is exposed to the action of those forces which cause decay or

solution, and the quicker will the constituents become available. In

the process of boiling or steaming, not only is the bone made finer

but its physical character in other respects is also changed, the

particles, whether fine or coarse, being made soft and crumbly rather

than dense or hard; hence it is more likely to act quickly than if the

same degree of fineness be obtained by simple grinding. The phosphoric

acid in fine steamed bone may all become available in 1 or 2 years,

while the coarser fatty raw bone sometimes resists final decay for 3

or 4 years or even longer. {339} Bone contains considerable nitrogen,

a fact which should be remembered in its use, particularly if used in

comparison with other phosphatic materials which do not contain this

element. Pure raw bone contains on an average 22 per cent of phosphoric

acid and 4 per cent of nitrogen. By steaming or boiling, a portion

of the organic substance containing nitrogen is extracted, which has

the effect of proportionately increasing the phosphoric acid in the

product; hence a steamed bone may contain as high as 28 per cent of

phosphoric acid and as low as 1 per cent of nitrogen. Steamed bone

is usually, therefore, much richer in phosphoric acid and has less

nitrogen than the raw bone.

«Brewers’ Yeast and Fertilizers.»—A mixture is made of about 2 parts of

yeast with 1 part of sodium chloride and 5 parts of calcium sulphate,

by weight, for use as a manure. Pure or impure yeast, or yeast

previously treated for the extraction of a portion of its constituents,

may be used, and the gypsum may be replaced by other earthy substances

of a similar non-corrosive nature.

Authorities seem to agree that lime is necessary to the plant, and if

it be wholly lacking in the soil, even though an abundance of all the

other essential elements is present, it cannot develop normally. Many

soils are well provided with lime by nature and it is seldom or never

necessary for those who cultivate them to resort to liming. It would be

just as irrational to apply lime where it is not needed as to omit it

where it is required, and hence arises the necessity of ascertaining

the needs of particular soils in this respect.

The method usually resorted to for ascertaining the amount of lime

in soils is to treat them with some strong mineral acid, such as

hydrochloric acid, and determine the amount of lime which is thus

dissolved. The fact that beets of all kinds make a ready response to

liming on soils which are deficient in lime may be utilized as the

basis of testing.

FEVER IN CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

FIG SQUARES: See Confectionery.

«Files»

«Composition Files.»—These files, which are frequently used by

watchmakers and other metal workers for grinding and polishing, and

the color of which resembles silver, are composed of 8 parts copper, 2

parts tin, 1 part zinc, 1 part lead. They are cast in forms and treated

upon the grindstone; the metal is very hard, and therefore worked with

difficulty with the file.

«To Keep Files Clean» (see also Cleaning Preparations and Methods).—The

uneven working of a file is usually due to the fact that filings clog

the teeth of the file. To obviate this evil, scratch brush the files

before use, and then grease them with olive oil. A file prepared in

this manner lasts for a longer time, does not become so quickly filled

with filings and can be conveniently cleaned with an ordinary rough

brush.

«Recutting Old Files.»—Old files may be rendered useful again by the

following process: Boil them in a potash bath, brush them with a hard

brush and wipe off. Plunge for half a minute into nitric acid, and pass

over a cloth stretched tightly on a flat piece of wood. The effect will

be that the acid remains in the grooves, and will take away the steel

without attacking the top, which has been wiped dry. The operation may

be repeated according to the depth to be obtained. Before using the

files thus treated they should be rinsed in water and dried.

FILE METAL: See Alloys.

FILLERS FOR LETTERS: See Lettering.

FILLERS FOR WOOD: See Wood.

«FILTERS FOR WATER.»

A filter which possesses the advantages of being easily and cheaply

cleaned when dirty, and which frees water from mechanical impurities

with rapidity, may be formed by placing a stratum of sponge between two

perforated metallic plates, united by a central screw, and arranged in

such a manner as to permit of the sponge being compressed as required.

Water, under gentle pressure, flows with such rapidity through the

pores of compressed sponge, that it is said that a few square feet of

this substance will perfectly filter several millions of gallons of

water daily.

The sponges are cleaned thoroughly, rolled together as much as

possible, and placed in the escape pipe of a percolator in such a

manner that the larger portion of the sponge is in the pipe while the

smaller portion, spreading by itself, protrudes over the pipe toward

the interior {340} of the percolator, thus forming a flat filter

covering it. After a thorough moistening of the sponge it is said to

admit of a very quick and clear filtration of large quantities of

tinctures, juices, etc.

For filtering water on a small scale, and for domestic use,

“alcarrazas,” diaphragms of porous earthenware and filtering-stone and

layers of sand and charcoal, etc., are commonly employed as filtering.

A cheap, useful form of portable filter is the following, given in

the proceedings of the British Association: “Take any common vessel,

perforated below, such as a flower pot, fill the lower portion with

coarse pebbles, over which place a layer of finer ones, and on these

a layer of clean coarse sand. On the top of this a piece of burnt

clay perforated with small holes should be put, and on this again a

stratum of 3 or 4 inches thick of well-burnt, pounded animal charcoal.

A filter thus formed will last a considerable time, and will be found

particularly useful in removing noxious and putrescent substances held

in solution by water.”

The “portable filters,” in stoneware, that are commonly sold in the

shops, contain a stratum of sand, or coarsely powdered charcoal;

before, however, having access to this, the water has to pass through

a sponge, to remove the coarser portion of the impurities.

«Alum Process of Water Purification.»—Water may be filtered and

purified by precipitation, by means of alum, by adding a 4 per cent

solution to the water to be clarified until a precipitate is no longer

produced. After allowing the turbid mixture to stand for 8 hours,

the clear portion may be decanted or be siphoned off. About 2 grains

of alum is ordinarily required to purify a gallon of water. Potassa

alum only should be used, as ammonia alum cannot be used for this

purpose. The amount of alum required varies with the water, so that

an initial experiment is required whenever water from a new source is

being purified. If the purification is properly done, the water will

not contain any alum, but only a trace of potassium sulphate, for the

aluminum of the double sulphate unites with the various impurities to

form an insoluble compound which gradually settles out, mechanically

carrying with it suspended matter, while the sulphuric acid radical

unites with the calcium in the water to form insoluble calcium sulphate.

FILTER PAPER: See Paper.

FILM-STRIPPING: See Photography.

FINGER-TIPS, SPARKS FROM: See Pyrotechnics.

FIRES, COLORED: See Pyrotechnics.

FIREARM LUBRICANTS: See Lubricants.

«FIRE EXTINGUISHERS:»

I.—Calcium chloride 184 parts

Magnesium chloride 57 parts

Sodium chloride 13 parts

Potassium bromide 22 parts

Barium chloride 3 parts

Water to make 1,000 parts

Dissolve and fill into hand grenades.

II.—Iron sulphate 4 parts

Ammonium sulphate 16 parts

Water 100 parts

Mix, dissolve, and fill into flasks.

III.—Sodium chloride 430 parts

Alum 195 parts

Glauber salts 50 parts

Sodium carbonate, impure 35 parts

Water glass 266 parts

Water 233 parts

Mix, etc.

IV.—Sodium chloride 90 parts

Ammonium chloride 45 parts

Water 300 parts

Mix, dissolve, and put into quart flasks of very thin glass, which are

to be kept conveniently disposed in the dwelling rooms, etc., of all

public institutions.

V.—Make 6 solutions as follows:

_a._—Ammonium chloride 20 parts

Water 2,000 parts

_b._—Alum, calcined and powdered 35 parts

Water 1,000 parts

_c._—Ammonium sulphate, powdered 30 parts

Water 500 parts

_d._—Sodium chloride 20 parts

Water 4,000 parts

_e._—Sodium carbonate 35 parts

Water 500 parts

f.—Liquid water glass 450 parts

{341}

Mix the solutions in the order named and to the mixture, while still

yellow and turbid, add 2,000 parts of water, and let stand. When the

precipitate has subsided fill off the clear liquid into thin glass

(preferably blue, to deter decomposition) containers each of 3 pints to

a half gallon capacity.

VI.—Calcium chloride 30 parts

Magnesium chloride 10 parts

Water 60 parts

VII.—Sodium chloride 20 parts

Ammonium chloride 9 parts

Water 71 parts

VIII.—Sodium carbonate 16 parts

Sodium chloride 64 parts

Water 920 parts

The most effective of all extinguishers is ammonia water. It is almost

instantaneous in its effect, and a small quantity only is required

to extinguish any fire. Next in value is carbonic acid gas. This may

be thrown from siphons or soda-water tanks. The vessel containing it

should be thrown into the fire in such a way as to insure its breaking.

«Dry Powder Fire Extinguishers.»—The efficacy of these is doubted by

good authorities. They should be tested before adoption.

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