per cent), 57.5 parts by weight; spirits (96 per cent), 40 parts by
weight; corallin (dark), 10 parts by weight; corallin (pale), 5 parts
by weight; spirit of sal ammoniac (16° Bé.), 8 parts by weight; sodium
phosphate, 30 parts by weight; stannic chloride, 5 parts by weight;
barium chloride, 75 parts by weight. Dissolve the corallin in the
spirit, and filter the solution carefully into eight bottles, each
containing 1 part of the above quantity of spirit of sal ammoniac, and
let stand. The soda should meanwhile be dissolved in hot water and
the solution run into the stirring vat, in which there is cold water
to the height of 17 inches. Add the sodium phosphate, which has been
dissolved in a copper vessel, then the corallin solution, and next the
stannic chloride diluted with 3 pailfuls of cold water. Lastly the
barium chloride solution is added. The day previous barium chloride is
dissolved in a cask in as little boiling water as possible, and the
receptacle is filled entirely with cold water. On the day following,
allow the same to run in slowly during a period of three-fourths of
an hour, stir till evening, allow to settle for 2 days, draw off and
filter.
«English Pink.»—
Quercitron bark 200 parts
Lime 10 parts
Alum 10 parts
Terra alba 300 parts
Whiting 200 parts
Sugar of lead 7 parts
Put the bark into a tub, slake lime in another tub, and add the clear
limewater to wash the bark; repeat this 3 times, letting the bark stand
in each water 24 hours. Run liquor into the tub below and add the terra
alba and whiting; wash well in the top tub and run into liquor below
through a hair sieve, stirring well.
Dissolve the sugar of lead in warm water and pour gently into the
tub, stirring all the time; then dissolve the alum and run in while
stirring; press slightly, drop, and dry as required.
«Dutch Pink.»—
I.—Quercitron bark 200 parts
Lime 20 parts
Alum 20 parts
Whiting 100 parts
Terra alba 200 parts
White sugar of lead 10 parts
II.—Quercitron bark 300 parts
Lime 10 parts
Alum 10 parts
Terra alba 400 parts
Whiting 100 parts
Sugar of lead 7 parts
Put the bark into a tub with cold water, slake 28 pounds of lime, and
add the limewater to the bark. (This draws all the color out of the
wood.) Dissolve alum in water and run it into bark liquor. The alum
solution must be just warm. Dissolve sugar of lead and add it to above,
and afterwards add the terra alba and whiting. The product should now
be in a pulp, and must be dropped and dried as required.
«Rose Pink.»—I.—Light.
Sapan wood 100 parts
Lima 100 parts
Paris white 200 parts
Alum 210 parts {279}
II.—Deep.
Sapan wood 300 parts
Lima 300 parts
Terra alba 400 parts
Paris white 120 parts
Lime 12 parts
Alum 200 parts
III.—Sapan wood 200 parts
Alum 104 parts
Whiting 124 parts
Boil the woods together in 4 waters and let the products stand until
cold; wash in the whiting and terra alba through a hair sieve, and
afterwards run in the alum. If a deep color is required slake 12 pounds
lime and run it in at the last through a hair sieve. Let the alum be
just warm or it will show in the pink.
«DYES, COLORS, ETC., FOR TEXTILE GOODS:»
«Aniline Black.»—This black is produced by carefully oxidizing aniline
hydrochloride. The exact stage of oxidation must be carefully regulated
or the product will be a different body (quinone). There are several
suitable oxidizing agents, such as chromic acid, potassic bichromate,
ferrocyanide of potassium, etc., but one of the easiest to manipulate
is potassic chlorate, which by reacting on copper sulphate produces
potassic sulphate and copper chlorate. This is easily decomposed,
its solution giving off gases at 60° F. which consist essentially
of chloride anhydrate. But one of the most useful agents for the
production of aniline black is vanadate of ammonia, 1 part of which
will do the work of 4,000 parts of copper. Many other salts besides
copper may be used for producing aniline black, but the following
method is one of the best to follow in making this dye:
Aniline hydrochloride 40 parts
Potassic chlorate 20 parts
Copper sulphate 40 parts
Chloride of ammonia (sal ammoniac) 16 parts
Warm water at 60° F 500 parts
After warming a few minutes the mass froths up. The vapor should not be
inhaled. Then set aside, and if the mass is not totally black in a few
hours, again heat to 60° F., and expose to the air for a few days, and
finally wash away all the soluble salts and the black is fit for use.
«Aniline Black Substitutes.»—I.—Make a solution of
Aniline (fluid measure) 30 parts
Toluidine (by weight) 10 parts
Pure hydrochloric acid, B. P. (fluid measure) 60 parts
Soluble gum arabic (fluid measure) 60 parts
Dissolve the toluidine in the aniline and add the acid, and finally the
mucilage.
II.—Mix together at gentle heat:
Starch paste 13 quarts
Potassic chlorate 350 scruples
Sulphate of copper 300 scruples
Sal ammoniac 300 scruples
Aniline hydrochloride 800 scruples
Add 5 per cent of alizarine oil, and then steep it for 2 hours in the
dye bath of red liquor of 2 1/2° Tw. Dye in a bath made up of 1/2
ounce of rose bengal and 1 1/2 ounces of red liquor to every 70
ounces of cotton fabric dyed, first entering the fabric at 112° F., and
raising it to 140° F., working for 1 hour, or until the desirable shade
is obtained; then rinse and dry.
«Blush Pink on Cotton Textile.»—Rose bengal or fast pink will give this
shade. The mordant to use is a 5 per cent solution of stannate of soda
and another 5 per cent solution of alum.
Dissolve in a vessel (_a_) 8 1/2 parts of chloride of copper in 30
parts of water, and then add 10 parts chloride of sodium and 9 1/2
parts liquid ammonia.
In a second vessel dissolve (_b_) 30 parts aniline hydrochlorate in 20
parts of water, and add 20 parts of a solution of gum arabic prepared
by dissolving 1 part of gum in 2 parts of water.
Finally mix 1 part of _a_ with 4 parts of _b_; expose the mixture to
the air for a few days to develop from a greenish to a black color.
Dilute for use, or else dry the thick compound to a powder.
If new liquor is used as the mordant, mix 1 part of this with 4 parts
of water, and after working the fabric for 1 to 2 hours in the cold
liquor, wring or squeeze it out and dry; before working it in the
dye liquor, thoroughly wet the fabric by rinsing it in hot water at
a spring boil; then cool by washing in the dye bath until the shade
desired is attained, and again rinse and dry.
The red liquor or acetate of aluminum may be made by dissolving 13
ounces of alum in 69 ounces of water and mixing this with a solution
made by dissolving 7 1/2 ounces of acetate of lime, also dissolved
in 69 ounces of water. Stir well, allow it to settle, and filter or
decanter {280} off the clear fluid for use, and use this mixture
2 1/2° Tw.
The fabric is first put into the stannate of soda mordant for a few
minutes, then wrung out and put into the alum mordant for about the
same time; then it is again wrung out and entered in the dye bath at
120° F. and dyed to shade desired, and afterwards rinsed in cold water
and dried.
The dye bath is made of 1/4 ounce of rose bengal per gallon of water.
If fast pink is the dye used, the mordant used would be Turkey red oil
and red liquor. Use 8 ounces of Turkey red oil per gallon of water. Put
the fabric into this, then wring out the textile and work in red liquor
of 7° Tw. for about 2 hours, then wring out and dye in a separate bath
made up of eosine, or fast pink, in water in which a little alum has
been dissolved.
«To Dye Woolen Yarns, etc., Various Shades of Magenta.»—To prepare
the dye bath dissolve 1 pound of roseine in 15 gallons of water. For
a concentrated solution use only 10 gallons of water, while if a very
much concentrated color is needed, dissolve the dye in methylated
spirit of wine, and dilute this spirituous tincture with an equal
quantity of water.
No mordant is required in using this color in dyeing woolen goods.
The dyeing operation consists simply in putting the goods into the dye
bath at 190° F. and working them therein until the desired shade is
obtained, then rinsing in cold water and drying.
If the water used in preparing the dye is at all alkaline, make use
of the acid roseine dissolved in water in which a little sulphuric
acid has been mixed, and work, gradually raising to the boiling point,
and keep up the temperature for 30 minutes, or according to the shade
desired. Put about 20 per cent sulphate of soda into the dye bath.
«Maroon Dye for Woolens.»—To prepare the dye bath, dissolve about 1
pound of maroon dye in boiling water, with or without the addition of
methylated spirit of wine. For dark shades dissolve in boiling water,
only slightly acidulated with hydrochloric acid, and filter before use.
No mordant is required with this dye when dyeing wool, but for the
bright shade a little curd soap may be dissolved in the dye bath before
proceeding to dye the wool, while for the dark shade it is best to put
in a little acetate of soda. To use the dye, first dye in a weak bath
and gradually strengthen it until the desired shade is obtained, at the
same time gradually increasing the temperature until just below the
boiling point.
«To Dye Woolens with Blue de Lyons.»—Dissolve 8 ounces of blue dye in
1 gallon of methylated spirit, which has been slightly soured with
sulphuric acid, and boil the solution over a water bath until it is
perfectly clear. To prepare the dye bath, add more or less of the
spirituous tincture to a 10- or 15-gallon dye bath of water, which has
been slightly soured with sulphuric acid.
«Rich Orange on Woolen.»—Dissolve 1 pound of phosphine in 15 gallons
of boiling water, and stir the fluid until the acid has dissolved.
No mordant is required to dye wool. First work the goods about in a
weak solution, and finally in one of full strength, to which a little
acetate of soda has been added. Keep up the temperature to just below
the boiling point while working the goods in the dye bath.
«DYEING SILK OR COTTON FABRICS WITH ANILINE DYES:»
«Aniline Blue on Cotton.»—Prepare a dye bath by dissolving 1 pound of
aniline blue (soluble in spirit) in 10 gallons of water, and set it
aside to settle. Meanwhile prepare a mordant while boiling 35 ounces
of sumac (or 5 1/2 ounces tannic acid in 30 gallons of water) and
then dissolve therein 17 ounces of curd soap. Boil up and filter. Put
the cotton goods in the hot liquid and let them remain therein for 12
hours. Then wring them out and make up a dye bath of 2 1/2° Tw. with
red liquor. Add dye color according to the shade desired. Put in the
goods and work them until the color is correct, keeping the temperature
at the boiling point.
«To Dye Silk a Delicate Greenish Yellow.»—Dissolve 2 ounces of
citronine in 1 gallon of methylated spirit and keep the solution hot
over a water bath until perfectly clear.
To prepare silk fabrics, wash them in a weak soap liquor that has been
just sweetened (i. e., its alkalinity turned to a slight sourness) with
a little sulphuric acid. Work the goods until dyed to shade, and then
rinse them in cold water that has been slightly acidulated with acetic,
tartaric, or citric acid.
«To Dye Cotton Dark Brown.»—Prepare a mordant bath of 10 pounds
of catechu, 2 pounds of logwood extract, and 1/4 pound magenta
(roseine), and bring to a boil; work the goods therein for 3 hours at
that temperature; then put {281} into a fresh dye bath made up of 3
pounds of bichromate of potash and 2 pounds of sal soda, and dye to
shade. These proportions are for a dye bath to dye 100 pounds of cotton
goods at a time.
«To Dye Silk Peacock Blue.»—Make up a dye bath by putting 1 pint of
sulphuric acid at 170° Tw., and 10 ounces of methylin blue crystal dye
liquor of 120° to 160° Tw., with a dye bath that will hold 80 pounds of
goods. Put in the silk at 130° F., and raise to 140° F., and work up to
shade required.
«To Dye Felt Goods.»—Owing to this material being composed of animal
and vegetable fiber it is not an easy matter always to produce evenness
of shade. The best process to insure success is to steep well the felt
in an acid bath of from 6° to 12° Bé., and then wash away all traces
of acid. Some dyers make the fulling stock the medium of conveying the
dye, while others partially dye before fulling, or else dye after that
process.
The fulling stock for 72 ounces of beaver consists of a mixture of
Black lead or plumbago 16 ounces
Venetian red 48 ounces
Indigo extract (fluid) 5 ounces
Ordinary Drab.—
Common plumbago 12 ounces
Best plumbago 12 ounces
Archil extract (fluid) 15 ounces
Indigo extract 10 ounces
Mix into fluid paste with water and add sulphuric acid at 30° Tw. For
the dye liquor make a boiling-hot solution of the aniline dye and allow
it to cool; then put into an earthenware vessel holding water and heat
to 83° F., and add sufficient dye liquor to give the quantity of felt
the desired shade. First moisten well the felted matter (or the hair,
if dyed before felting) with water, and then work it about in the above
dye bath at 140° F. To deepen the shade, add more dye liquor, lifting
out the material to be dyed before adding the fresh dye liquor, so that
it can be well stirred up and thoroughly mixed with the exhausted bath.
«Brown Shades.»—Bismarck brown will give good results, particularly
if the dyed goods are afterwards steeped or passed through a weak
solution (pale straw color) of bichromate of potash. This will give a
substantial look to the color. Any of the aniline colors suitable for
cotton or wool, or those suited for mixed cotton and wool goods may be
used.
«Blue.»—Use either China blue, dense ferry blue, or serge blue, first
making the material acid before dyeing.
«Green.»—Use brilliant green and have the material neutral, i. e.,
neither acid nor alkali; or else steep in a bath of sumac before dyeing.
«Plum Color.»—Use maroon (neutral or acid) and work in an acid bath or
else sumac.
«Black.»—Use negrosin in an acid bath, or else mordant in two salts and
dye slightly acid.
«Soluble Blue, Ball Blue, etc.»—A soluble blue has for many years
been readily obtainable in commerce which is similar in appearance to
Prussian blue, but, unlike the latter, is freely soluble in water. This
blue is said to be potassium ferri-ferrocyanide.
To prepare instead of buying it ready made, gradually add to a boiling
solution of potassium ferricyanide (red prussiate of potash) an
equivalent quantity of hot solution of ferrous sulphate, boiling for 2
hours and washing the precipitate on a filter until the washings assume
a dark-blue color. The moist precipitate can at once be dissolved by
the further addition of a sufficient quantity of water. About 64 parts
of the iron salt is necessary to convert 100 parts of the potassium
salt into the blue compound.
If the blue is to be sent out in the liquid form, it is desirable
that the solution should be a perfect one. To attain that end the
water employed should be free from mineral substances, and it is best
to filter the solution through several thicknesses of fine cotton
cloth before bottling; or if made in large quantities this method may
be modified by allowing it to stand some days to settle, when the
top portion can be siphoned off for use, the bottom only requiring
filtration.
The ball blue sold for laundry use consists of ultramarine. Balls or
tablets of this substance are formed by mixing it with glucose or
glucose and dextrin, and pressing into shape. When glucose alone is
used, the product has a tendency to become soft on keeping, which
tendency may be counteracted by a proper proportion of dextrin.
Bicarbonate of sodium is added as a filler to cheapen the product, the
quantity used and the quality of the ultramarine employed being both
regulated by the price at which the product is to sell.
«New Production of Indigo.»—Forty parts of a freshly prepared ammonium
sulphide solution containing 10 per cent {282} of hydrogen sulphide
are made to flow quickly and with constant stirring into a heated
solution of 20 parts of isatine anilide in 60 parts of alcohol. With
spontaneous heating and temporary green and blue coloration, an
immediate separation of indigo in small crystalline needles of a faint
copper luster takes place. Boil for a short time, whereupon the indigo
is filtered off, rewashed with alcohol, and dried.
«To Dye Feathers.»—A prerequisite to the dyeing of feathers appears
to be softening them, which is sometimes accomplished by soaking them
in warm water, and sometimes an alkali, such as ammonium or sodium
carbonate, is added. This latter method would apparently be preferable
on account of the removal of any greasy matter that may be present.
When so prepared the feathers may be dyed by immersion in any dye
liquor. An old-time recipe for black is immersion in a bath of ferric
nitrate suitably diluted with water, and then in an infusion of equal
parts of logwood and quercitron. Doubtless an aniline dye would prove
equally efficient and would be less troublesome to use.
After dyeing, feathers are dipped in an emulsion formed by agitating
any bland fixed oil with water containing a little potassium
carbonate, and are then dried by gently swinging them in warm air. This
operation gives the gloss.
Curling where required is effected by slightly warming the feathers
before a fire, and then stroking with a blunt metallic edge, as the
back of a knife. A certain amount of manual dexterity is necessary to
carry the whole process to a successful ending.
DYES FOR FOOD: See Foods.
DYES FOR LEATHER: See Leather.
DYE STAINS, THEIR REMOVAL FROM THE SKIN: See Cleaning Preparations and
Methods.
DYNAMITE: See Explosives.
EARTHENWARE: See Ceramics.
EAU DE QUININE: See Hair Preparations.
EBONY: See Wood.
EBONY LACQUER: See Lacquers.
«ECZEMA DUSTING POWDER FOR CHILDREN.»
Starch, French chalk, lycopodium, of each, 40 parts; bismuth
subnitrate, 2 parts; salicylic acid, 2 parts; menthol, 1 part. Apply
freely to the affected parts.
«Eggs»
The age of eggs may be approximately judged by taking advantage of the
fact that as they grow old their density decreases through evaporation
of moisture. According to Siebel, a new-laid egg placed in a vessel of
brine made in the proportion of 2 ounces of salt to 1 pint of water,
will at once sink to the bottom. An egg 1 day old will sink below the
surface, but not to the bottom, while one 3 days old will swim just
immersed in the liquid. If more than 3 days old the egg will float on
the surface, the amount of shell exposed increasing with age; and if 2
weeks old, only a little of the shell will dip in the liquid.
The New York State Experiment Station studied the changes in the
specific gravity of the eggs on keeping and found that on an average
fresh eggs had a specific gravity of 1.090; after they were 10 days
old, of 1.072; after 20 days, of 1.053; and after 30 days, of 1.035.
The test was not continued further. The changes in specific gravity
correspond to the changes in water content. When eggs are kept they
continually lose water by evaporation through the pores in the shell.
After 10 days the average loss was found to be 1.60 per cent of the
total water present in the egg when perfectly fresh; after 20 days,
3.16 per cent; and after 30 days, 5 per cent. The average temperature
of the room where the eggs were kept was 63.8° F. The evaporation was
found to increase somewhat with increased temperature. None of the eggs
used in the 30-day test spoiled.
Fresh eggs are preserved in a number of ways which may, for
convenience, be grouped under two general classes: (1) Use of low
temperature, i. e., cold storage; and (2) excluding the air by coating,
covering, or immersing the eggs, some material or solution being
used which may or may not be a germicide. The two methods are often
combined. The {283} first method owes its value to the fact that
microörganisms, like larger forms of plant life, will not grow below
a certain temperature, the necessary degree of cold varying with the
species. So far as experiment shows, it is impossible to kill these
minute plants, popularly called “bacteria” or “germs,” by any degree
of cold; and so, very low temperature is unnecessary for preserving
eggs, even if it were not undesirable for other reasons, such as injury
by freezing and increased cost. According to a report of the Canadian
commission of agriculture and dairying:
Eggs are sometimes removed from the shells and stored in bulk, usually
on a commercial scale, in cans containing about 50 pounds each. The
temperature recommended is about 30° F., or a little below freezing,
and it is said they will keep any desired length of time. They must
be used soon after they have been removed from storage and have been
thawed.
Water glass or soluble glass is the popular name for potassium
silicate, or sodium silicate, the commercial article often being a
mixture of the two. The commercial water glass is used for preserving
eggs, as it is much cheaper than the chemically pure article which is
required for many scientific purposes. Water glass is commonly sold in
two forms, a syrup-thick liquid of about the consistency of molasses,
and a powder. The thick syrup, the form perhaps most usually seen, is
sometimes sold wholesale as low as 1 3/4 cents per pound in carboy
lots. The retail price varies, though 10 cents per pound, according to
the North Dakota Experiment Station, seems to be the price commonly
asked. According to the results obtained at this station a solution
of the desired strength for preserving eggs may be made by dissolving
1 part of the syrup-thick water glass in 10 parts, by measure, of
water. If the water-glass powder is used, less is required for a given
quantity of water. Much of the water glass offered for sale is very
alkaline. Such material should not be used, as the eggs preserved in
it will not keep well. Only pure water should be used in making the
solution, and it is best to boil it and cool it before mixing with the
water glass.
The solution should be carefully poured over the eggs packed in a
suitable vessel, which must be clean and sweet, and if wooden kegs or
barrels are used they should be thoroughly scalded before packing the
eggs in them. The packed eggs should be stored in a cool place. If they
are placed where it is too warm, silicate deposits on the shell and the
eggs do not keep well. The North Dakota Experiment Station found it
best not to wash the eggs before packing, as this removes the natural
mucilaginous coating on the outside of the shell. The station states
that 1 gallon of the solution is sufficient for 50 dozen eggs if they
are properly packed.
It is, perhaps, too much to expect that eggs packed in any way will
be just as satisfactory for table use as the fresh article. The
opinion seems to be, however, that those preserved with water glass
are superior to most of those preserved otherwise. The shells of eggs
preserved in water glass are apt to crack in boiling. It is stated that
this may be prevented by puncturing the blunt end of the egg with a pin
before putting it into the water.
«To Discover the Age of Eggs.»—The most reliable method of arriving at
the age of hens’ eggs is that by specific gravity. Make a solution of
cooking salt (sodium chloride) in rain or distilled water, of about
one part of salt to two parts of water, and in this place the eggs to
be tested. A perfectly fresh egg (of from 1 to 36 hours old) will sink
completely, lying horizontally on the bottom of the vessel; when from
two to three days old, the egg also sinks, but not to the bottom,
remaining just below the surface of the water, with a slight tendency
of the large end to rise. In eggs of four or five days old this
tendency of the large end to rise becomes more marked, and it increases
from day to day, until at the end of the fifth day the long axis of the
egg (an imaginary line drawn through the center lengthwise) will stand
at an angle of 20° from the perpendicular. This angle is increased
daily, until at the end of the eighth day it is at about 45°; on the
fourteenth day it is 60°; on the twenty-first day it is 75°, while at
the end of 4 weeks the egg stands perfectly upright in the liquid, the
point or small end downward.
This action is based on the fact that the air cavity in the big end
of the egg increases in size and capacity, from day to day, as the
egg grows older. An apparatus (originally devised by a German poultry
fancier) based on this principle, and by means of which the age of an
egg maintained at ordinary temperature may be told approximately to
within a day, is made by placing a scale of degrees, drawn from O° to
90° (the latter representing the perpendicular) behind the vessel {284}
containing the solution, and observing the angle made by the axis of
the egg with the perpendicular line. This gives the age of the egg with
great accuracy.
«Weights of Eggs.»—The following table shows the variation in weight
between eggs of the same family of chickens and of the comparative
value of the product of different kinds of fowls:
Weight of
Whole Eggs, Shell,
Grains. Grains. Net.
Common hen, small 635.60 84.86 550.54
Common hen, mean 738.35 92.58 645.77
Common hen, large 802.36 93.25 709.11
Italian hen 840.00 92.50 747.50
Houdan 956.60 93.50 853.10
La Flesche 926.50 94.25 835.25
Brahma 1,025.50 114.86 910.64