most profitable producers, as far as food value of the product is
concerned—provided, of course, they are equally prolific with the
ordinary fowl.
Another calculation is the number of eggs to the pound, of the various
weights. This is as follows:
Small ordinary eggs (635 grains) 12.20 to pound
Large ordinary eggs (802 grains) 9.25 to pound
Houdan eggs 8.0 to pound
Brahma, mean 7.4 to pound
Brahma, large 7.1 to pound
«Dried Yolk of Egg.»—To prepare this, the yolks of eggs, separated
from the whites, are thoroughly mixed with 1/3 their weight of
water. The resulting emulsion is strained and evaporated under reduced
pressure at a temperature of 87° to 122° F., to a paste. The latter is
further dried over quicklime or a similar absorbent of moisture, at a
temperature of 77° to 86° F., and ground to a fine powder.
«Egg Oil.»—
Yolks of eggs (about 250) 5.0 parts
Distilled water 0.3 parts
Beat this together and heat the mass with constant stirring in a dish
on the water bath until it thickens and a sample exhibits oil upon
pressing between the fingers. Squeeze out between hot plates, mix the
turbid oil obtained with 0.05 parts of dehydrated Glauber’s salt,
shake repeatedly, and finally allow to settle. The oil, which must be
decanted clear from the sediment, gives a yield of at least 0.5 parts
of egg oil.
«Artificial Egg Oil.»—
Yellow beeswax 0.2 parts
Cacao oil 0.5 parts
Melt on the water bath and gradually add 9 parts of olive oil.
«Egg Powder.»—
Sodium bicarbonate 8 ounces
Tartaric acid 3 ounces
Cream tartar 5 ounces
Turmeric, powdered 3 drachms
Ground rice 16 ounces
Mix and pass through a fine sieve. One teaspoonful to a dessertspoonful
(according to article to be made), to be mixed with each half pound of
flour.
«The Preservation of Eggs.»—The spoiling of eggs is due to the entrance
of air carrying germs through the shells. Normally the shell has a
surface coating of mucilaginous matter, which prevents for a time the
entrance of these harmful organisms into the egg. But if this coating
is removed or softened by washing or otherwise the keeping quality
of the egg is much reduced. These facts explain why many methods of
preservation have not been entirely successful, and suggest that the
methods employed should be based upon the idea of protecting and
rendering more effective the natural coating of the shell, so that air
bearing the germs that cause decomposition may be completely excluded.
Eggs are often packed in lime, salt, or other products, or are put in
cold storage for winter use, but such eggs are very far from being
perfect when they come upon the market. German authorities declare
that water glass more closely conforms to the requirements of a good
preservative than any of the substances commonly employed. A 10 per
cent solution of water glass is said to preserve eggs so effectually
that at the end of three and one-half months eggs still appeared to be
perfectly fresh. In most packed eggs the yolk settles to one side, and
the egg is then inferior in quality. In eggs preserved in water glass
the yolk retained its normal position in the egg, and in taste they
were not to be distinguished from fresh, unpacked store eggs.
Of twenty methods tested in Germany, the three which proved most
effective were coating the eggs with vaseline, preserving them in
limewater, and preserving them in water glass. The conclusion was
reached that the last is preferable, because varnishing the eggs with
vaseline takes considerable time, and treating them with limewater is
likely to give the eggs a limy flavor. {285}
Other methods follow:
I.—Eggs can be preserved for winter use by coating them, when perfectly
fresh, with paraffine. As the spores of fungi get into eggs almost as
soon as they are laid, it is necessary to rub every egg with chloroform
or wrap it a few minutes in a chloroform soaked rag before dipping it
into the melted paraffine. If only a trace of the chloroform enters
the shell the development of such germs as may have gained access to
freshly laid eggs is prevented. The paraffine coating excludes all
future contamination from germ-laden air, and with no fungi growing
within, they retain their freshness and natural taste.
II.—Preserving with Lime.—Dissolve in each gallon of water 12 ounces
of quicklime, 6 ounces of common salt, 1 drachm of soda, 1/2 drachm
saltpeter, 1/2 drachm tartar, and 1 1/2 drachms of borax. The fluid
is brought into a barrel and sufficient quicklime to cover the bottom
is then poured in. Upon this is placed a layer of eggs, quicklime is
again thrown in and so on until the barrel is filled so that the liquor
stands about 10 inches deep over the last layer of eggs. The barrel is
then covered with a cloth, upon which is scattered some lime.
III.—Melt 4 ounces of clear beeswax in a porcelain dish over a gentle
fire, and stir in 8 ounces of olive oil. Let the solution of wax in oil
cool somewhat, then dip the fresh eggs one by one into it so as to coat
every part of the shell. A momentary dip is sufficient, all excess of
the mixture being wiped off with a cotton cloth. The oil is absorbed in
the shell, the wax hermetically closing all the pores.
IV.—The Reinhard method is said to cause such chemical changes in the
surface of the eggshell that it is closed up perfectly air-tight and an
admittance of air is entirely excluded, even in case of long-continued
storing. The eggs are for a short time exposed to the direct action of
sulphuric acid, whereby the surface of the eggshell, which consists
chiefly of lime carbonate, is transformed into lime sulphate. The
dense texture of the surface thus produced forms a complete protection
against the access of the outside air, which admits of storing the egg
for a very long time, without the contents of the egg suffering any
disadvantageous changes regarding taste and odor. The egg does not
require any special treatment to prevent cracking on boiling, etc.
Some object to this on the ground that sulphuric acid is a dangerous
poison, that might, on occasion, penetrate the shell.
V.—Take about half a dozen eggs and place them in a netting (not so
many as would chill the water below the boiling point, even for an
instant), into a boiling solution of boric acid, withdraw immediately,
and pack. Or put up, in oil, carrying 2 per cent or 3 per cent of
salicylic acid. Eggs treated in this way are said to taste, after six
months, absolutely as fresh as they were when first put up. The eggs
should be as fresh as possible, and should be thoroughly clean before
dipping. The philosophy of the process is that the dipping in boiling
boric acid solution not only kills all bacteria existing on, or in, the
shell and membrane, but reinforces these latter by a very thin layer
of coagulated albumen; while the packing in salicylated oil prevents
the admission of fresh germs from the atmosphere. Salicylic acid is
objected to on the same grounds as sulphuric acid.
VI.—Dissolve sodium silicate in boiling water, to about the consistency
of a syrup (or about 1 part of the silicate to 3 parts water). The eggs
should be as fresh as possible, and must be thoroughly clean. They
should be immersed in the solution in such manner that every part of
each egg is covered with the liquid, then removed and let dry. If the
solution is kept at or near the boiling temperature, the preservative
effect is said to be much more certain and to last longer.
EGG CHOCOLATE: See Beverages.
EGG DYES: See Dyes.
EGG LEMONADE: See Beverages, under Lemonade.
EGG PHOSPHATE: See Beverages.
EGG-STAIN REMOVER: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
EGGS, TESTS FOR: See Foods.
EIKONOGEN DEVELOPER: See Photography.
EKTOGAN: See Antiseptics. {286}
«ELAINE SUBSTITUTE.»
A substitute for elaine for woolen yarns is obtained by boiling 4
pounds carrageen moss in 25 gallons water for 3 hours. The soda is
then put in and the boiling continued for another half hour; 2 pounds
fleabane seeds are gradually added, and a little water to make up for
the evaporation. After a further 1 1/2 hours boiling, the extract is
passed through a fine sieve and well mixed with 25 pounds cottonseed
oil, 12 1/2 pounds sweet oil, and 12 1/2 pounds ammonia solution
of 0.96 specific gravity. Next day stir in 25 pounds saponified elaine
and 13 pounds of odorless petroleum of 0.885 specific gravity. The
resulting emulsion keeps well, dissolves perfectly in lukewarm water,
and answers its purpose excellently.
ELECTRODEPOSITION PROCESSES: See Plating.
ELECTROLYSIS IN BOILERS: See Boiler Compounds.
«Electroplating and Electrotyping»
(See also Plating.)
«PROCESS OF ELECTROPLATING.»
First, clean the articles to be plated. To remove grease, warm the
pieces before a slow fire of charcoal or coke, or in a dull red stove.
Delicate or soldered articles should be boiled in a solution of caustic
potash, the latter being dissolved in 10 times its weight of water.
The scouring bath is composed of 100 parts of water to from 5 to 20
parts of sulphuric acid. The articles may be put in hot and should be
left in the bath till the surface turns to an ocher red tint.
The articles, after having been cleansed of grease by the potash
solution, must be washed in water and rinsed before being scoured.
Copper or glass tongs must then be used for moving the articles,
as they must not afterwards be handled. For small pieces, suitable
earthenware or porcelain strainers may be used.
The next stage is the spent nitric acid bath. This consists of nitric
acid weakened by previous use. The articles are left in until the red
color disappears, so that after rinsing they show a uniform metallic
tint. The rinsing should be thoroughly carried out.
Having been well shaken and drained, the articles are next subjected to
the strong nitric acid bath, which is made up as follows:
Nitric acid of 36° Bé 100 volumes
Chloride of sodium (common salt) 1 volume
Calcined soot (lampblack) 1 volume
The articles must be immersed in this bath for only a few seconds.
Avoid overheating or using too cold a bath. They are next rinsed
thoroughly with cold water and are again subjected to a strong nitric
acid bath to give them a bright or dull appearance as required.
To produce a bright finish, plunge them for a few seconds (moving
them about rapidly at the same time) in a cold bath of the following
composition:
Nitric acid 100 volumes
Sulphuric acid 100 volumes
Chloride of sodium 1 volume
Again rinse thoroughly in cold water. The corresponding bath giving a
dull or matt appearance is composed of:
Nitric acid 200 volumes
Sulphuric acid 100 volumes
Sea salt 1 volume
Sulphate of zinc 1 to 5 volumes
The duration of immersion in this bath varies from 5 to 20 minutes,
according to the dullness required. Wash with plenty of water. The
articles will then have an unpleasant appearance, which will disappear
on plunging them for a moment into the brightening bath and rinsing
quickly.
The pieces are next treated with the nitrate of mercury bath for a few
seconds.
Plain water 10,000 parts
Nitrate of mercury 10 parts
Sulphuric acid 20 parts
It is necessary to stir this bath before using it. For large articles
the proportion of mercury should be greater. An article badly cleaned
will come out in various shades and lacking its metallic brightness. It
is better to throw a spent bath away than attempt to strengthen it.
The various pieces, after having passed through these several
processes, are then ready for the plating bath.
A few words on the subject of gilding may not be amiss. Small articles
are gilded hot, large ones cold. The cold cyanide of gold and potassium
bath is composed as follows:
Distilled water 10,000 parts
Pure cyanide of potassium 200 parts
Pure gold 100 parts
The gold, transformed into chloride, is dissolved in 2,000 parts of
water and {287} the cyanide in 8,000 parts. The two solutions are then
mixed and boiled for half an hour.
The anode must be entirely submerged in the bath, suspended from
platinum wires and withdrawn immediately the bath is out of action.
«Hot Gold Bath.»—Zinc, tin, lead, antimony and the alloys of these
metals are better if previously covered with copper.
The following are the formulas for the other metals per 10,000 parts of
distilled water:
Crystallized phosphate of soda, 600 parts; alloys rich in copper
castings, 500 parts.
Bisulphide of soda, 100 parts; alloys rich in copper, 125 parts.
Pure cyanide of potassium, 10 parts; alloys rich in copper, 5 parts.
Pure gold transformed into chloride, 10 parts; alloys rich in copper,
10 parts.
Dissolve the phosphate of soda hot in 8,000 parts water, let the
chloride of gold cool in 1,000 parts water; mix little by little the
second solution with the first; dissolve the cyanide and bisulphide in
1,000 parts water and mix this last solution with the other two. The
temperature of the bath may vary between 122° and 175° F.
«Silvering.»—For amateurs a bath of 10 parts silver per 1,000 is
sufficient. Dissolve 150 parts nitrate of silver, equivalent to 100
parts pure silver, in 10,000 parts of water and add 250 parts pure
cyanide of potassium. Stir it up until completely dissolved, and then
filter the solution. Silvering is generally effected cold, except in
the case of small articles. Iron, steel, zinc, lead, and tin are better
if previously copper-plated and then silvered hot. The cleaned articles
are first treated in a nitrate of mercury bath, being kept continually
in motion.
With excess of current the pieces become gray, and blacken. In the cold
bath anodes of platinum or silver should be employed. Old baths are, in
this case, preferable to new. They may, if required, be artificially
aged by the addition of 1 or 2 parts in 1,000 of liquid ammonia.
If the anode blackens, the bath is too weak. If it becomes white, there
is too much current, and the deposit, being too rapid, does not adhere.
The deposit may be taken as normal and regular when the anode becomes
gray during the passage of the current and white again when it ceases
to flow.
The nickel vat should be of glass, porcelain, or earthenware, or a
case lined with impermeable gum. The best nickel bath is prepared by
dissolving to saturation, in hot distilled water, nickel sulphate and
ammonium, free from oxides or alkalies and alkaline earthy metals. The
proportion of salt to dissolve is 1 part, by weight, to 10 of water.
Filter after cooling and the bath is then ready for use.
When the bath is ready and the battery set up, the wires from the
latter are joined by binding screws to two metal bars resting on the
edge of the vat. The bar joined to the positive pole of the battery
supports, through the intervention of a nickel-plated copper hook, a
plate of nickel, constituting the soluble anode, which restores to the
bath the metal deposited on the cathode by the electrolytic action.
From the other bar are suspended the articles to be plated. These
latter should be well polished before being put into the bath. To
remove all grease, scrub them with brushes soaked in a hot solution of
whiting, boiled in water and carbonate of soda.
Copper and its alloys are cleaned well in a few seconds by immersion in
a bath composed of 10 parts, by weight, of water, and 1 part of nitric
acid. For rough articles, 2 parts water, 1 nitric acid, and 1 sulphuric
acid. For steel and polished castings, 100 parts water to 1 sulphuric
acid. The articles should remain in the bath until the whole surface
is of a uniform gray tint. They are then rubbed with powdered pumice
stone till the solid metal appears. Iron and steel castings are left
in the bath for three or four hours and then scrubbed with well-sifted
sand.
If the current be too strong, the nickel is deposited gray or even
black. An hour or so is time enough to render the coat sufficiently
thick and in a condition to stand polishing. When the articles are
removed from the bath they are washed in water and dried in hot sawdust.
To polish the articles they should be taken in one hand and rubbed
rapidly backward and forward on a strip of cloth soaked in polishing
powder boiled in water, the cloth being firmly fixed at one end and
held in the other hand. The hollow parts are polished by means of cloth
pads of various sizes fixed on sticks. These pads must be dipped in the
polishing paste when using them. The articles, when well brightened,
are washed in water to get rid of the paste and the wool threads, and
finally dried in sawdust. {288}
«SOME NOTES ON ELECTROTYPING, PLATING, AND GILDING.»
The first step in the process is the preparation of the mold. The
substance originally used for the construction of this was plaster
of Paris. This substance is, however, porous and must be rendered
impermeable. The materials most commonly used of later years are
stearine, wax, marine glue, gelatin, india rubber, and fusible alloys.
With hollow molds it is a good plan to arrange an internal skeleton of
platinum, for ultimate connection with the anodes, in order to secure
a good electrical contact with all parts of the mold. When covering
several pieces at once, it is as well to connect each of them with the
negative pole by an iron or lead wire of suitable dimensions.
Having prepared the molds in the usual way—by obtaining an impression
in the material when soft, and allowing it to set—they should be given
a metallic coating on their active surfaces of pure powdered plumbago
applied with a polishing brush.
For delicate and intricate objects, the wet process is most suitable.
It consists in painting the object with two or more coats of nitrate
of silver and ultimately reducing it by a solution of phosphorus in
bisulphide of carbon.
The plating baths are prepared as follows:
A quantity of water is put in a jar and to it is added from 8 to
10 parts in 100 of sulphuric acid, in small quantities, stirring
continually in order to dissipate the heat generated by the admixture
of acid and water. Sulphate of copper (bluestone) is then dissolved in
the acidulated water at the normal temperature until it will take up
no more. The solution is always used cold and must be maintained in
a saturated condition by the addition of copper sulphate crystals or
suitable anodes.
For use it should be poured into vessels of clay, porcelain, glass,
hard brown earthenware, or india rubber. For large baths wood may be
used, lined on the interior with an impervious coating of acid-proof
cement, india rubber, marine glue, or even varnished lead sheets.
If the solution be too weak and the current on the other hand be
too strong, the resulting deposit will be of a black color. If
too concentrated a solution and too weak a current be employed, a
crystalline deposit is obtained. To insure a perfect result, a happy
medium in all things is necessary.
During the process of deposition, the pieces should be moved about in
the bath as much as possible in order to preserve the homogeneity of
the liquid. If this be not attended to, stratification and circulation
of the liquid is produced by the decomposition of the anode, and is
rendered visible by the appearance of long, vertical lines on the
cathode.
For amateurs and others performing small and occasional experiments,
the following simple apparatus will be serviceable. Place the solution
of sulphate of copper in an earthenware or porcelain jar, in the center
of which is a porous pot containing amalgamated zinc and a solution
of sulphuric acid and water, about 2 or 3 parts in 100. At the top of
the zinc a brass rod is fixed, supporting a circle of the same metal,
the diameter of which is between that of the containing vessel and the
porous pot. From this metallic circle the pieces are suspended in such
a manner that the parts to be covered are turned toward the porous
pot. Two small horsehair bags filled with copper sulphate crystals are
suspended in the solution to maintain its saturation.
«ELM TEA.»
Powdered slippery elm bark 2 teaspoonfuls
(or the equivalent in whole bar)
Boiling water 1 cup
Sugar, enough.
Lemon juice, enough.
Pour the water upon the bark. When cool, strain and flavor with lemon
juice and add sugar. This is soothing in case of inflammation of the
mucous membrane.
«EMBALMING FLUIDS.»
Success in the use of any embalming fluid depends largely on
manipulation, an important part of the process being the thorough
removal of fluid from the circulatory system before undertaking the
injection of the embalming liquid.
I.—Solution zinc chloride (U. S. P.) 1 gallon
Solution sodium chloride 6 ounces to pint 6 pints
Solution mercury bichloride, 1 ounce to pint 4 pints
Alcohol 4 pints
Carbolic acid (pure) 8 ounces
Glycerine 24 fluidounces
{289}
Mix the glycerine and carbolic acid, then all the other ingredients,
when a clear solution of 3 gallons results, which is the proper amount
for a body weighing 150 pounds.
II.—Arsenious acid 100 parts
Sodium hydrate 50 parts
Carbolic acid and water, of each a sufficient quantity.
Dissolve the arsenious acid and the soda in 140 parts of water by the
aid of heat. When the solution is cold, drop carbolic acid into it
until it becomes opalescent, and finally add water until the finished
product measures 700 parts.
III.—Salicylic acid 4 drachms
Boric acid 5 drachms
Potassium carbonate 1 drachm
Oil of cinnamon 3 drachms
Oil of cloves 3 drachms
Glycerine 5 ounces
Alcohol 12 ounces
Hot water 12 ounces
Dissolve the first 3 ingredients in the water and glycerine, the oils
in the alcohol, and mix the solutions.
IV.—Thymol 15 grains
Alcohol 1/2 ounce
Glycerine 10 ounces
Water 5 ounces
V.—Cooking salt 500 parts
Alum 750 parts
Arsenious acid 350 parts
Zinc chloride 120 parts
Mercury chloride 90 parts
Formaldehyde solution, 40 per cent 6,000 parts
Water, up to 24,000 parts
VI.—Arsenious acid 360 grains
Mercuric chloride 1 1/4 ounces
Alcohol 9 ounces
Sol. ac. carbolic, 5 per cent 120 ounces
From 10 to 12 pints are injected into the carotid artery—at first
slowly and afterwards at intervals of from 15 to 30 minutes.
EMERALD (IMITATION): See Gems, Artificial.
«EMERY:»
«Emery Grinder.»—Shellac, melted together with emery and fixed to
a short metal rod, forms the grinder used for opening the holes in
enameled watch dials and similar work. The grinder is generally rotated
with the thumb and forefinger, and water is used to lubricate its
cutting part, which soon wears away. The grinder is reshaped by heating
the shellac and molding the mass while it is in a plastic condition.
«Preparing Emery for Lapping.»—To prepare emery for lapping
screw-gages, plugs, etc., fill a half-pint bottle with machine oil
and flour emery, 7 parts oil to 1 part emery, by bulk. Mix thoroughly
and let stand for 20 minutes to settle. Take the bottle and pour off
one-half the contents without disturbing the settlings. The portion
poured off contains only the finest emery and will never scratch the
work.
For surface lapping put some flour emery in a linen bag and tie up
closely with a string. Dust out the emery by striking the bag against
the surface plate; use turpentine for rough lapping and the dry surface
plate for finishing.
«Removing Glaze from Emery Wheels.»—If the wheel is not altogether too
hard, it can sometimes be remedied by reducing the face of the wheel to
about 1/8 inch, or by reducing the speed, or by both. Emery wheels
should be turned off so that they will run true before using. A wheel
that glazes immediately after it has been turned off, can sometimes
be corrected by loosening the nut, and allowing the wheel to assume a
slightly different position, when it is again tightened.
«Emery Substitute.»—For making artificial emery, 1,634 parts of the
following substances may be employed: Seven hundred and fifty-nine
parts of bauxite, 700 parts of coke, and 96 parts of a flux, which may
be a carbonate of lime, of potash, or of soda, preferably carbonate
of lime on account of its low price. These materials are arranged in
alternate layers and fused in an oven having a good draught. They are
said to yield an artificial emery similar to the natural emery of
Smyrna and Naxos, and at low cost.
«EMULSIFIERS:»