consists, for 12 dozen, of 144 pounds of logwood; 12 pounds of green
sulphate of iron or copperas; 7 1/2 pounds verdigris. The logwood
having been introduced into the copper and digested for some time, the
copperas and verdigris are added in successive quantities, and in the
above proportions, along with every successive 2 or 3 dozen of hats
suspended upon the dripping machine. Each set of hats, after being
exposed to the bath with occasional airings during 40 minutes, is taken
off the pegs, and laid out upon the ground to be more completely
blackened by the peroxydizement of the iron with the atmospheric
oxygen. In 3 or 4 hours the dyeing is completed. When fully dyed, the
hats are well washed in running water.
Straw hats or bonnets may be dyed black by boiling them 3 or 4 hours
in a strong liquor of logwood, adding a little copperas occasionally.
Let the bonnets remain in the liquor all night; then take out to dry in
the air. If the black is not satisfactory, dye again after drying. Rub
inside and out with a sponge moistened in fine oil; then block.
I.—Red Dye.—Boil ground brazil wood in a lye of potash, and boil your
straw hats in it.
II.—Blue Dye.—Take a sufficient quantity of potash lye, 1 pound of
litmus or lacmus, ground; make a decoction and then put in the straw,
and boil it.
«TO DYE, STIFFEN, AND BLEACH FELT HATS.»
Felt hats are dyed by repeated immersion, drawing and dipping in a
hot watery solution of logwood, 38 parts; green vitriol, 3 parts;
verdigris, 2 parts; repeat the immersions and drawing with exposure
to the air 13 or 14 times, or until the color suits, each step in
the process lasting from 10 to 15 minutes. Aniline colors may be
advantageously used instead of the above. For a stiffening, dissolve
borax, 10 parts; carbonate of potash, 3 parts, in hot water; then add
shellac, 50 parts, and boil until all is dissolved; apply with a sponge
or a brush, or by immersing the hat when it is cold, and dip at once in
very dilute sulphuric or acetic acid to neutralize the alkali and fix
the shellac. Felt hats can be bleached by the use of sulphuric acid gas.
«LIQUID DYE COLORS.»
These colors, thickened with a little gum, may be used as inks in
writing, or as colors to tint maps, foils, artificial flowers, etc., or
to paint on velvet:
I.—Blue.—Dilute Saxon blue or sulphate of indigo with water. If
required for delicate work, neutralize with chalk.
II.—Purple.—Add a little alum to a strained decoction of logwood.
III.—Green.—Dissolve sap green in water and add a little alum.
IV.—Yellow.—Dissolve annatto in a weak lye of subcarbonate of soda or
potash.
V.—Golden Color.—Steep French berries in hot water, strain, and add a
little gum and alum.
VI.—Red.—Dissolve carmine in ammonia, or in weak carbonate of potash
water, or infuse powdered cochineal in water, strain, and add a little
gum in water.
«UNCLASSIFIED DYERS’ RECIPES:»
«To Cleanse Wool.»—Make a hot bath composed of water, 4 parts; and
urine, 1 part; enter the wool, teasing and opening it out to admit the
full action of the liquid. After 20 minutes’ immersion, remove from the
liquid and allow it to drain; then rinse in clean running water, and
spread out to dry. The liquid is good for subsequent operations, only
keep up the proportions, and use no soap.
«To Extract Oil Spots from Finished Goods.»—Saturate the spot with
benzine; then place two pieces of very soft blotting paper under
and two upon it, press well with a hot iron, and the grease will be
absorbed.
«New Mordant for Aniline Colors.»—Immerse the goods for some hours in
a bath of cold water in which chloride or acetate of zinc has been
dissolved until the solution shows 2° Bé. For the wool the {274}
mordanting bath should be at a boiling heat, and the goods should
also be placed in a warm bath of tannin, 90° F., for half an hour. In
dyeing, a hot solution of the color must be used to which should be
added, in the case of the cotton, some chloride of zinc, and, in the
case of the wool, a certain amount of tannin solution.
«To Render Aniline Colors Soluble in Water.»—A solution of gelatin in
acetic acid of almost the consistence of syrups is first made, and the
aniline in fine is gradually added, stirring all the time so as to make
a homogeneous paste. The mixture is then to be heated over a water bath
to the temperature of boiling water and kept at that heat for some time.
«Limewater for Dyers’ Use.»—Put some lime, 1 pound, and strong
limewater, 1 1/2 pounds, into a pail of water; rummage well for 7
or 8 minutes. Then let it rest until the lime is precipitated and the
water clear; add this quantity to a tubful of clear water.
«To Renew Old Silks.»—Unravel and put them in a tub, cover with cold
water, and let them remain 1 hour. Dip them up and down, but do not
wring; hang up to drain, and iron while very damp.
«Fuller’s Purifier for Cloths.»—Dry, pulverize, and sift the following
ingredients: Fuller’s earth, 6 pounds; French chalk, 4 ounces; pipe
clay, 1 pound. Make into a paste with rectified oil of turpentine, 1
ounce; alcohol, 2 ounces; melted oil soap, 1 1/2 pounds. Compound the
mixture into cakes of any desired size, keeping them in water, or small
wooden boxes.
«To Fix Dyes.»—Dissolve 20 ounces of gelatin in water, and add 3 ounces
of bichromate of potash. This is done in a dark room. The coloring
matter is then added and the goods submitted thereto, after which they
are exposed to the action of light. The pigment thus becomes insoluble
in water and the color is fast.
«DYES AND DYESTUFFS.»
Prominent among natural dyestuffs is the coloring matter obtained
from logwood and known as “hæmatein.” The color-forming substance (or
chromogen), hæmatoxylin, exists in the logwood partly free and partly
as a glucoside. When pure, hæmatoxylin forms nearly colorless crystals,
but on oxidation, especially in the presence of an alkali, it is
converted into the coloring matter hæmatein, which forms colored lakes
with metallic bases, yielding violets, blues, and blacks with various
mordants. Logwood comes into commerce in the form of logs, chips, and
extracts. The chips are moistened with water and exposed in heaps so
as to induce fermentation, alkalies and oxidizing agents being added
to promote the “curing” or oxidation. When complete and the chips have
assumed a deep reddish-brown color, the decoction is made which is
employed in dyeing. The extract offers convenience in transportation,
storage, and use. It is now usually made from logwood chips that
have not been cured. The chips are treated in an extractor, pressure
often being used. The extract is sometimes adulterated with chestnut,
hemlock, and quercitron extracts, and with glucose or molasses.
Fustic is the heart-wood of certain species of trees indigenous to
the West Indies and tropical South America. It is sold as chips and
extract, yields a coloring principle which forms lemon-yellow lakes
with alumina and is chiefly used in dyeing wool. Young fustic is the
heart-wood of a sumac native to the shores of the Mediterranean, which
yields an orange-colored lake with alumina and tin salts.
Cutch, or catechu, is obtained from the wood and pods of the _Acacia
catechu_, and from the betel nut, both native in India. Cutch appears
in commerce in dark-brown lumps, which form a dark-brown solution with
water. It contains catechu-tannic acid, as tannin and catechin, and is
extensively used in weighting black silks, as a mordant for certain
basic coal-tar dyes, as a brown dye on cotton, and for calico printing.
Indigo, which is obtained from the glucoside indican existing in
the indigo plant and in woad, is one of the oldest dyestuffs.
It is obtained from the plant by a process of fermentation and
oxidation. Indigo appears in commerce in dark-blue cubical cakes,
varying very much in composition as they often contain indigo red
and indigo brown, besides moisture, mineral matters, and glutinous
substances. Consequently the color varies. Powdered indigo dissolves
in concentrated fuming sulphuric acid, forming monosulphonic and
disulphonic acids. On neutralizing these solutions with sodium
carbonate and precipitating the indigo carmine with common salt there
is obtained the indigo extract, soluble indigo, and indigo carmine of
commerce. True indigo carmine is the sodium salt of the disulphonic
acid, and when sold dry it is called “indigotine.”
One of the most important of the recent {275} achievements of chemistry
is the synthetic production of indigo on a commercial scale.
Artificial dyestuffs assumed preponderating importance with the
discovery of the lilac color mauve by Perkin in 1856, and fuchsine or
magenta by Verguin in 1895, for with each succeeding year other colors
have been discovered, until at the present time there are several
thousand artificial organic dyes or colors on the market. Since the
first of these were prepared from aniline or its derivatives the colors
were known as “aniline dyes,” but as a large number are now prepared
from other constituents of coal tar than aniline they are better
called “coal-tar dyestuffs.” There are many schemes of classification.
Benedikt-Knecht divides them into I, aniline or amine dyes; II, phenol
dyes; III, azo dyes; IV, quinoline and acridine derivatives; V,
anthracene dyes; and VI, artificial indigo.
Of the anthracene dyes, the alizarine is the most important, since this
is the coloring principle of the madder. The synthesis of alizarine
from anthracene was effected by Grabe and Liebermann in 1868. This
discovery produced a complete revolution in calico printing, turkey-red
dyeing, and in the manufacture of madder preparations. Madder finds
to-day only a very limited application in the dyeing of wool.
In textile dyeing and printing, substances called mordants are largely
used, either to fix or to develop the color on the fiber. Substances
of mineral origin, such as salts of aluminum, chromium, iron, copper,
antimony, and tin, principally, and many others to a less extent and of
organic origin, like acetic, oxalic, citric, tartaric, and lactic acid,
sulphonated oils, and tannins are employed as mordants.
Iron liquor, known as black liquor or pyrolignite of iron, is made by
dissolving scrap iron in pyroligneous acid. It is used as a mordant in
dyeing silks and cotton and in calico printing.
Red liquor is a solution of aluminum acetate in acetic acid, and is
produced by acting on calcium or lead acetate solutions with aluminum
sulphate or the double alums, the supernatant liquid forming the red
liquor. The red liquor of the trade is often the sulpho-acetate of
alumina resulting when the quantity of calcium or lead acetate is
insufficient to completely decompose the aluminum salt. Ordinarily the
solutions have a dark-brown color and a strong pyroligneous odor. It
is called red liquor because it was first used in dyeing reds. It is
employed as a mordant by the cotton dyer and largely by the printer.
«Non-Poisonous Textile and Egg Dyes for Household Use.»—The preparation
of non-poisonous colors for dyeing fabrics and eggs at home constitutes
a separate department in the manufacture of dyestuffs.
Certain classes of aniline dyes may be properly said to form the
materials. The essence of this color preparation consists chiefly in
diluting or weakening the coal-tar dyes, made in the aniline factories,
and bringing them down to a certain desired shade by the addition of
certain chemicals suited to their varying characteristics, which,
though weakening the color, act at the same time as the so-called
mordants.
The anilines are divided with reference to their characteristic
reactions into groups of basic, acid, moderately acid, as well as dyes
that are insoluble in water.
In cases where combinations of one or more colors are needed, only dyes
of similar reaction can be combined, that is, basic with basic, and
acid with acid.
For the purpose of reducing the original intensity of the colors, and
also as mordants, dextrin, Glauber’s salt, alum, or aluminum sulphate
is pressed into service. Where Glauber’s salt is used, the neutral
salt is exclusively employed, which can be had cheaply and in immense
quantities in the chemical industry. Since it is customary to pack
the color mixtures in two paper boxes, one stuck into the other, and
moreover since certain coal-tar dyes are only used in large crystals,
it is only reasonable that the mordants should be calcined and not put
up in the shape of crystallized salts, particularly since these latter
are prone to absorb the moisture from the air, and when thus wet likely
to form a compact mass very difficult to dissolve. This inconvenience
often occurs with the large crystals of fuchsine and methyl violet.
Because these two colors are mostly used in combination with dextrin to
color eggs, and since dextrin is also very hygroscopic, it is better
in these individual cases to employ calcined Glauber’s salt. In the
manufacture of egg colors the alkaline coloring coal-tar dyes are
mostly used, and they are to be found in a great variety of shades.
Of the non-poisonous egg dyes, there are some ten or a dozen numbers,
new red, carmine, scarlet, pink, violet, blue, yellow, orange, green,
brown, black, heliotrope, etc., which when mixed will {276} enable the
operator to form shades almost without number.
The manufacture of the egg dyes as carried on in the factory consists
in a mechanical mixing of basic coal-tar dyestuffs, also some direct
coloring benzidine dyestuffs, with dextrin in the ratio of about 1 part
of aniline dye to 8 parts of dextrin; under certain circumstances,
according to the concentrated state of the dyes, the reducing quantity
of the dextrin may be greatly increased. As reducing agents for these
colors insoluble substances may also be employed. A part also of the
egg dyes are treated with the neutral sulphate; for instance, light
brilliant green, because of its rubbing off, is made with dextrin and
Glauber’s salt in the proportion of 1:3:3.
For the dyeing of eggs such color mixtures are preferably employed as
contain along with the dye proper a fixing agent (dextrin) as well as a
medium for the superficial mordanting of the eggshell. The colors will
then be very brilliant.
Here are some recipes:
Parts
Color Dyestuff by Cit. Dextrin
Weight Acid
Blue Marine blue B. N. 3.5 35.0 60.0
Brown Vesuvin S. 30.0 37.5 30.0
Green Brilliant green O. 13.5 18.0 67.5
Orange Orange II. 9.0 18.0 75.0
Red Diamond fuchsine I. 3.5 18.0 75.0
Pink Eosin A. 4.5 — 90.0
Violet Methyl violet 6 B. 3.6 18.0 75.0
Yellow Naphthol yellow S. 13.5 36.0 67.5
Very little of these mixtures suffices for dyeing five eggs. The
coloring matter is dissolved in 600 parts by weight of boiling water,
while the eggs to be dyed are boiled hard, whereupon they are placed in
the dye solution until they seem sufficiently colored. The dyes should
be put up in waxed paper.
«Fast Stamping Color.»—Rub up separately, 20 parts of cupric sulphate
and 20 parts of anilic hydrochlorate, then mix carefully together,
after adding 10 parts of dextrin. The mixture is next ground with
5 parts of glycerine and sufficient water until a thick, uniform,
paste-like mass results, adapted for use by means of stencil and
bristle-brush. Aniline black is formed thereby in and upon the fiber,
which is not destroyed by boiling.
«New Mordanting Process.»—The ordinary method of mordanting wool with
a bichromate and a reducing agent always makes the fiber more or less
tender, and Amend proposed to substitute the use of a solution of
chromic acid containing 1 to 2 per cent of the weight of the wool,
at a temperature not exceeding 148° F., and to treat it afterwards
with a solution of sodium bisulphite. According to a recent French
patent, better results are obtained with neutral or slightly basic
chromium sulphocyanide. This salt, if neutral or only slightly basic,
will mordant wool at 148° F. The double sulphocyanide of chromium and
ammonium, got by dissolving chromic oxide in ammonium sulphocyanide,
can also be used. Nevertheless, in order to precipitate chromium
chromate on the fiber, it is advisable to have a soluble chromate and
a nitrate present, as well as a soluble copper salt and a free acid.
One example of the process is as follows: Make the bath with 2 to 3 per
cent of ammonio-chromium sulphocyanide, one-half of 1 per cent sodium
bichromate, one-third of 1 per cent sodium nitrite, one-third of 1 per
cent sulphate of copper, and 1.5 per cent sulphuric acid—percentages
based on the weight of the wool. Enter cold and slowly heat to about
140° to 150° F. Then work for half an hour, lift and rinse. The bath
does not exhaust and can be reinforced and used again.
«Process for Dyeing in Khaki Colors.»—Bichromate of potash or of soda,
chloride of manganese, and a solution of acetate of soda or formiate of
soda (15° Bé.) are dissolved successively in equal quantities.
The solution thus composed of these three salts is afterwards diluted
at will, according to the color desired, constituting a range from a
dark brown to a light olive green shade. The proportions of the three
salts may be increased or diminished, in order to obtain shades more or
less bister.
Cotton freed from its impurities by the usual methods, then fulled as
ordinarily, is immersed in the bath. After a period, varying according
to the results desired, the cotton, threads, or fabrics of cotton, are
washed thoroughly and plunged, still wet, into an alkaline solution, of
which the concentration ought never to be less than 14° Bé. This degree
of concentration is necessary to take hold of the fiber when the cotton
comes in contact with the alkaline bath, and by the contraction which
takes place the oxides of chrome and of manganese remain fixed in the
fibers.
This second operation is followed by washing in plenty of water, and
then the cotton is dried in the open air. If the color is judged to
be too pale, the threads or fabrics are immersed again in the initial
bath, left the necessary time for obtaining the desired shade, and then
{277} washed, but without passing them through an alkaline bath. This
process furnishes a series of khaki colors, solid to light, to fulling
and to chlorine.
«LAKES:»
Scarlet Lake.—In a vat holding 120 gallons provided with good agitating
apparatus, dissolve 8 pounds potash alum in 10 gallons hot water and
add 50 gallons cold water. Prepare a solution of 2 pounds ammonia soda
and add slowly to the alum solution, stirring all the time. In a second
vessel dissolve 5 pounds of brilliant scarlet aniline, by first making
it into a paste with cold water and afterwards pouring boiling water
over it; now let out steam into the vat until a temperature of 150°
to 165° F. is obtained. Next dissolve 10 pounds barium chloride in 10
gallons hot water in a separate vessel, add this very slowly, stir at
least 3 hours, keeping up temperature to the same figures. Fill up vat
with cold water and leave the preparation for the night. Next morning
the liquor (which should be of a bright red color) is drawn off, and
cold water again added. Wash by decantation 3 times, filter, press
gently, and make into pulp.
It is very important to precipitate the aluminum cold, and heat up
before adding the dyestuff. The chemicals used for precipitating must
be added very slowly and while constantly stirring. The quantity used
for the three washings is required each time to be double the quantity
originally used.
I.—Madder Lakes.—Prepare from the root 1 pound best madder, alum water
(1 pound alum with 1 1/2 gallons of water), saturated solution of
carbonate of potash (3/4 pound carbonate of potash to 1/2 gallon of
water).
The madder root is inclosed in a linen bag of fine texture, and bruised
with a pestle in a large mortar with 2 gallons of water (free from
lime) added in small quantities at a time, until all the coloring
matter is extracted. Make this liquor boil, and gradually pour into the
boiling water solution. Add the carbonate of potash solution gradually,
stirring all the time. Let the mixture stand for 12 hours and drop and
dry as required.
II.—Garancine Process.—This is the method usually employed in
preference to that from the root. Garancine is prepared by steeping
madder root in sulphate of soda and washing.
Garancine 2 pounds
Alum (dissolved in a little water) 2 pounds
Chloride of tin 1/2 ounce
Sufficient carbonate of potash or soda to precipitate the alum.
Boil the garancine in 4 gallons of pure water; add the alum, and
continue boiling from 1 to 2 hours. Allow the product to partially
settle and filter through flannel before cooling. Add to the filtrate
the chloride of tin, and sufficient of the potash or soda solution to
precipitate the alum; filter through flannel and wash well. The first
filtrate may be used for lake of an inferior quality, and the garancine
originally employed may also be treated as above, when a lake slightly
inferior to the first may be obtained.
Maroon Lake.—Take of a mixture made of:
2/3 Sapan wood,
1/3 Lima wood 56 parts
Soda crystals 42 parts
Alum 56 parts
Extract the color from the woods as for rose pink, and next boil the
soda and alum together and add to the woods solution cold. This must be
washed clean before adding to the wood liquor.
Carnation Lake.—
Water 42 gallons
Cochineal 12 pounds
Salts of tartar 1 1/2 pounds
Potash alum 3/4 pound
Nitrous acid, nitromuriate of tin 44 pounds
Muriatic acid, nitromuriate of tin 60 pounds
Pure block tin, nitromuriate of tin 22 pounds
Should give specific gravity 1.310.
Boil the water with close steam, taking care that _no iron_ touches it;
add the cochineal and boil for not more than five minutes; then turn
off the steam and add salts of tartar and afterwards carefully add the
alum. If it should not rise, put on steam until it does, pass through a
120-mesh sieve into a settling vat, and let it stand for 48 hours (not
for precipitation). Add gradually nitromuriate of tin until the test
on blotting paper (given below) shows that the separation is complete.
Draw off clear water after it has settled, and filter. To test, rub a
little of the paste on blotting paper, then dry on steam chest or on
the hand, and if on bending it cracks, too much tin has been used.
To Test the Color to See if it is Precipitating.—Put a drop of
color on white blotting paper, and if the color spreads, it is not
precipitating. If there is a {278} colorless ring around the spot of
color it shows that precipitation is taking place; if the white ring is
too strong, too much has been used.
«BLACK LAKES FOR WALL-PAPER MANUFACTURE:»
Bluish-Black Lake.—Boil well 220 parts of Domingo logwood in 1,000
parts of water to which 2 parts of ammonia soda have been added; to the
boiling logwood add next 25 parts of green vitriol and then 3.5 parts
of sodium bichromate. The precipitated logwood lake is washed out well
twice and then filtered.
Black Lake AI.—Logwood extract, Sanford, 120 parts; green vitriol, 30
parts; acetic acid, 7° Bé., 10 parts; sodium bichromate, 16 parts;
powdered alum, 20 parts. The logwood extract is first dissolved in
boiling water and brought to 25° Bé. by the addition of cold water.
Then the remaining ingredients are added in rotation, the salts
in substance, finely powdered, with constant stirring. After the
precipitation, wash twice and filter.
Aniline Black Lake.—In the precipitating vat filled with 200 parts of
cold water enter with constant stirring in the order mentioned the
following solutions kept in readiness: Forty parts of alum dissolved in
800 parts of water; 10 parts of calcined soda dissolved in 100 parts
of water; 30 parts of azo black dissolved in 1,500 parts of water; 0.6
parts of “brilliant green” dissolved in 100 parts of water; 0.24 parts
of new fuchsine dissolved in 60 parts of water; 65 parts of barium
chloride dissolved in 1,250 parts of water. Allow to settle for 24
hours, wash the lake three times and filter it.