color; blue vitriol turns it to the bronze; green copperas darkens it,
when applied as a mordant and the stuff is boiled in the bath. Acetate
of alumina as a mordant brightens it. The French color Carmelite is
given with catechu, 1 pound; verdigris, 4 ounces; and sal ammoniac, 5
ounces.
«Dark Snuff Brown for Wool.»—For 50 pounds of goods, take camwood, 10
pounds, boil for 20 minutes, then dip the goods for 3/4 of an hour;
take them out, and add to the dye, fustic, 25 pounds, boil 12 minutes,
and dip the goods 3/4 of an hour; then add blue vitriol, 10 ounces,
copperas, 2 pounds, 8 ounces; dip again 40 minutes. Add more copperas
if the shade is required darker.
«Brown for Wool and Silk.»—Infusion or decoction of walnut peels
dyes wool and silk a brown color, which is brightened by alum.
Horse-chestnut peels also impart a brown color; a mordant of muriate of
tin turns it on the bronze, and sugar of lead the reddish brown.
«Alkali Blue and Nicholson’s Blue.»—Dissolve 1 pound of the dye in 10
gallons boiling water, and add this by small portions to the dye bath,
which should be rendered alkaline by borax. The fabric should be well
worked about between each addition of the color. The temperature must
be kept under 212° F. To develop the color, wash with water {268} and
pass through a bath containing sulphuric acid.
«Aniline Blue.»—To 100 pounds of fabric, dissolve 1 1/4 pounds
aniline blue in 3 quarts hot alcohol, strain through a filter, and add
it to a bath of 130° F.; also 10 pounds Glauber’s salts, and 5 pounds
acetic acid. Immerse the goods and handle them well for 20 minutes.
Next heat slowly to 200° F.; then add 5 pounds sulphuric acid diluted
with water. Let the whole boil 20 minutes longer; then rinse and dry.
If the aniline be added in 2 or 3 proportions during the process of
coloring, it will facilitate the evenness of the color.
«Blue on Cotton.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use copperas, 2 pounds; boil
and dip 20 minutes; dip in soapsuds, and return to the dye 3 or 4
times; then make a new bath with prussiate of potash, 1/2 pound; oil
of vitriol, 1 1/4 pints; boil 1/2 hour, rinse out and dry.
«Sky Blue on Cotton.»—For 60 pounds of goods, blue vitriol, 5 pounds.
Boil a short time, then enter the goods, dip 3 hours, and transfer to
a bath of strong limewater. A fine brown color will be imparted to the
goods if they are then put through a solution of prussiate of potash.
«Blue Dye for Hosiery.»—One hundred pounds of wool are colored with 4
pounds Guatemala or 3 pounds Bengal indigo, in the soda or wood vat.
Then boil in a kettle a few minutes, 5 pounds of cudbear or 8 pounds
of archil paste; add 1 pound of soda, or, better, 1 pail of urine;
then cool the dye to about 170° F. and enter the wool. Handle well for
about 20 minutes, then take it out, cool, rinse, and dry. It makes no
difference whether the cudbear is put in before or after the indigo.
Three ounces of aniline purple dissolved in alcohol, 1/2 pint, can be
used instead of the cudbear. Wood spirit is cheaper than alcohol, and
is much used by dyers for the purpose of dissolving aniline colors. It
produces a very pretty shade, but should never be used on mixed goods
which have to be bleached.
«Dark-Blue Dye.»—This dye is suitable for thibets and lastings. Boil
100 pounds of the fabric for 1 1/2 hours in a solution of alum,
25 pounds; tartar, 4 pounds; mordant, 6 pounds; extract of indigo,
6 pounds; cool as usual. Boil in fresh water from 8 to 10 pounds of
logwood, in a bag or otherwise, then cool the dye to 170° F. Reel the
fabric quickly at first, then let it boil strongly for 1 hour. This is
a very good imitation of indigo blue.
«Saxon Blue.»—For 100 pounds thibet or comb yarn, use alum, 20 pounds;
cream of tartar, 3 pounds; mordant, 2 pounds; extract of indigo,
3 pounds; or carmine, 1 pound, makes a better color. When all is
dissolved, cool the kettle to 180° F.; enter and handle quickly at
first, then let the fabric boil 1/2 hour, or until even. Long boiling
dims the color. Zephyr worsted yarn ought to be prepared, first, by
boiling it in a solution of alum and sulphuric acid; the indigo is
added afterwards.
«Logwood and Indigo Blue.»—For 100 pounds of cloth. Color the cloth
first by one or two dips in the vat of indigo blue, and rinse it well,
and then boil it in a solution of 20 pounds of alum, 2 pounds of
half-refined tartar, and 5 pounds of mordant, for 2 hours; finally take
it out and cool. In fresh water boil 10 pounds of good logwood for half
an hour in a bag or otherwise; cool off to 170° F. before entering.
Handle well over a reel, let it boil for half an hour; then take it
out, cool and rinse. This is a very firm blue.
«Blue Purple for Silk.»—For 40 pounds of goods, take bichromate of
potash, 8 ounces; alum, 1 pound; dissolve all and bring the water to a
boil, and put in the goods; boil 1 hour. Then empty the dye, and make
a new dye with logwood, 8 pounds, or extract of logwood, 1 pound 4
ounces, and boil in this 1 hour longer. Grade the color by using more
or less logwood, as dark or light color is wanted.
«Blue Purple for Wool.»—One hundred pounds of wool are first dipped in
the blue vat to a light shade, then boiled in a solution of 15 pounds
of alum and 3 pounds of half-refined tartar, for 1 1/2 hours, the
wool taken out, cooled, and let stand 24 hours. Then boil in fresh
water 8 pounds of powdered cochineal for a few minutes, cool the kettle
to 170° F. Handle the prepared wool in this for 1 hour, when it is
ready to cool, rinse and dry. By coloring first with cochineal, as
aforesaid, and finishing in the blue vat, the fast purple or dahlia, so
much admired in German broadcloths, will be produced. Tin acids must
not be used in this color.
«To Make Extract of Indigo Blue.»—Take of vitriol, 2 pounds, and stir
into it finely pulverized indigo, 8 ounces, stirring briskly for the
first half hour; then {269} cover up, and stir 4 or 5 times daily for
a few days. Add a little pulverized chalk, stirring it up, and keep
adding it as long as it foams; it will neutralize the acid. Keep it
closely corked.
«Light Silver Drab.»—For 50 pounds of goods, use logwood, 1/2 pound;
alum, about the same quantity; boil well, enter the goods, and dip them
for 1 hour. Grade the color to any desired shade by using equal parts
of logwood and alum.
«GRAY DYES:»
«Slate Dye for Silk.»—For a small quantity, take a pan of warm water
and about a teacupful of logwood liquor, pretty strong, and a piece of
pearlash the size of a nut; take gray-colored goods and handle a little
in this liquid, and it is finished. If too much logwood is used, the
color will be too dark.
«Slate for Straw Hats.»—First, soak in rather strong warm suds for 15
minutes to remove sizing or stiffening; then rinse in warm water to get
out the soap. Scald cudbear, 1 ounce, in sufficient water to cover the
hat; work it in this dye at 180° F., until a light purple is obtained.
Have a vessel of cold water, blued with the extract of indigo, 1/2
ounce, and work or stir the bonnet in this until the tint pleases. Dry,
then rinse out with cold water, and dry again in the shade. If the
purple is too deep in shade the final slate will be too dark.
«Silver Gray for Straw.»—For 25 hats, select the whitest hats and
soften them in a bath of crystallized soda to which some clean
limewater has been added. Boil for 2 hours in a large vessel, using for
a bath a decoction of the following: Alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid,
3/8 pound; some ammoniacal cochineal, and carmine of indigo. A little
sulphuric acid may be necessary in order to neutralize the alkali of
the cochineal dye. If the last-mentioned ingredients are used, let
the hats remain for an hour longer in the boiling bath, then rinse in
slightly acidulated water.
«Dark Steel.»—Mix black and white wool together in the proportion of
50 pounds of black wool to 7 1/2 pounds of white. For large or small
quantities, keep the same proportion, mixing carefully and thoroughly.
«GREEN DYES:»
«Aniline Green for Silk.»—Iodine green or night green dissolves easily
in warm water. For a liquid dye 1 pound may be dissolved in 1 gallon
alcohol, and mixed with 2 gallons water, containing 1 ounce sulphuric
acid.
«Aniline Green for Wool.»—Prepare two baths, one containing the
dissolved dye and a quantity of carbonate of soda or borax. In this
the wool is placed, and the temperature raised to 212° F. A grayish
green is produced, which must be brightened and fixed in a second bath
of water 100° F., to which some acetic acid has been added. Cotton
requires preparation by sumac.
«Green for Cotton.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use fustic, 10 pounds; blue
vitriol, 10 ounces; soft soap, 2 1/2 quarts; and logwood chips, 1
pound 4 ounces. Soak the logwood overnight in a brass vessel, and put
it on the fire in the morning, adding the other ingredients. When quite
hot it is ready for dyeing; enter the goods at once, and handle well.
Different shades may be obtained by letting part of the goods remain
longer in the dye.
«Green for Silk.»—Boil green ebony in water, and let it settle. Take
the clear liquor as hot as the hands can bear, and handle the goods in
it until of a bright yellow. Take water and put in a little sulphate of
indigo; handle goods in this till of the shade desired. The ebony may
previously be boiled in a bag to prevent it from sticking to the silk.
«Green for Wool and Silk.»—Take equal quantities of yellow oak and
hickory bark, make a strong yellow bath by boiling, and shade to the
desired tint by adding a small quantity of extract of indigo.
«Green Fustic Dye.»—For 50 pounds of goods, use 50 pounds of fustic
with alum, 11 pounds. Soak in water until the strength is extracted,
put in the goods until of a good yellow color, remove the chips, and
add extract of indigo in small quantities at a time, until the color is
satisfactory.
«PURPLE AND VIOLET DYES:»
«Aniline Violet and Purple.»—Acidulate the bath by sulphuric acid, or
use sulphate of soda; both these substances render the shade bluish.
Dye at 212° F. To give a fair middle shade to 10 pounds of wool, a
quantity of solution equal to 1/2 to 3/4 ounces of the solid dye
will be required. The color of the dyed fabric is improved by washing
in soap and water, and then passing through a bath soured by sulphuric
acid.
«Purple.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use {270} alum, 3 pounds; muriate
of tin, 4 teacups; pulverized cochineal, 1 pound; cream of tartar, 2
pounds. Boil the alum, tin, and cream of tartar, for 20 minutes, add
the cochineal and boil 5 minutes; immerse the goods 2 hours; remove and
enter them in a new dye composed of brazil wood, 3 pounds; logwood, 7
pounds; alum, 4 pounds, and muriate of tin, 8 cupfuls, adding a little
extract of indigo.
«Purple for Cotton.»—Get up a tub of hot logwood liquor, enter 3
pieces, give them 5 ends, and hedge out. Enter them in a clean alum
tub, give them 5 ends, and hedge out. Get up another tub of logwood
liquor, enter, give them 5 ends, and hedge out; renew the alum tub,
give 5 ends in that, and finish.
«Purple for Silk.»—For 10 pounds of goods, enter the goods in a blue
dye bath, and secure a light-blue color, dry, and dip in a warm
solution containing alum, 2 1/2 pounds. Should a deeper color be
required, add a little extract of indigo.
«Solferino and Magenta for Woolen, Silk, or Cotton.»—For 1 pound of
woolen goods, magenta shade, 96 grains, apothecaries’ weight, of
aniline red, will be required. Dissolve in a little warm alcohol,
using, say, 6 fluidounces, or about 6 gills alcohol per ounce of
aniline. Many dyers use wood spirits because of its cheapness. For a
solferino shade, use 64 grains aniline red, and dissolve in 4 ounces
alcohol, to each 1 pound of goods. Cold water, 1 quart, will dissolve
these small quantities of aniline red, but the cleanest and quickest
way will be found by using the alcohol, or wood spirits. Clean the
cloth and goods by steeping at a gentle heat in weak soapsuds, rinse
in several masses of clean water and lay aside moist. The alcoholic
solution of aniline is to be added from time to time to the warm or
hot dye bath, till the color on the goods is of the desired shade. The
goods are to be removed from the dye bath before each addition of the
alcoholic solution, and the bath is to be well stirred before the goods
are returned. The alcoholic solution should be first dropped into a
little water, and well mixed, and the mixture should then be strained
into the dye bath. If the color is not dark enough after working from
20 to 30 minutes, repeat the removal of the goods from the bath, and
the addition of the solution, and the re-immersion of the goods from
15 to 30 minutes more, or until suited, then remove from the bath and
rinse in several masses of clean water, and dry in the shade. Use about
4 gallons water for dye bath for 1 pound of goods; less water for
larger quantities.
«Violet for Silk or Wool.»—A good violet dye may be given by passing
the goods first through a solution of verdigris, then through a
decoction of logwood, and lastly through alum water. A fast violet may
be given by dyeing the goods crimson with cochineal, without alum or
tartar, and after rinsing passing them through the indigo vat. Linens
or cottons are first galled with 18 per cent of gallnuts, next passed
through a mordant of alum, iron liquor, and sulphate of copper, working
them well, then worked in a madder bath made with an equal weight of
root, and lastly brightened with soap or soda.
«Violet for Straw Bonnets.»—Take alum, 4 pounds; tartaric acid, 1
pound; chloride of tin, 1 pound. Dissolve and boil, allowing the hats
to remain in the boiling solution 2 hours; then add enough decoction
of logwood, carmine, and indigo to induce the desired shade, and rinse
finally in water in which some alum has been dissolved.
«Wine Color.»—For 50 pounds of goods, use camwood, 10 pounds, and boil
20 minutes; dip the goods 1/2 hour, boil again, and dip 40 minutes;
then darken with blue vitriol, 15 ounces, and 5 pounds of copperas.
«Lilac for Silk.»—For 5 pounds of silk, use archil, 7 1/2 pounds,
and mix well with the liquor. Make it boil 1 hour, and dip the silk
quickly; then let it cool, and wash in river water. A fine half violet,
or lilac, more or less full, will be obtained.
«RED, CRIMSON, AND PINK DYES:»
«Aniline Red.»—Inclose the aniline in a small muslin bag. Have a kettle
(tin or brass) filled with moderately hot water and rub the substance
out. Then immerse the goods to be colored, and in a short time they are
done. It improves the color to wring the goods out of strong soapsuds
before putting them in the dye. This is a permanent color on wool or
silk.
«Red Madder.»—To 100 pounds of fabric, use 20 pounds of alum, 5 pounds
of tartar, and 5 pounds of muriate of tin. When these are dissolved,
enter the goods and let them boil for 2 hours, then take out, let cool,
and lay overnight. Into fresh water, stir 75 pounds of good {271}
madder, and enter the fabric at 120° F. and bring it up to 200° F. in
the course of an hour. Handle well to secure evenness, then rinse and
dry.
«Red for Wool.»—For 40 pounds of goods, make a tolerably thick paste of
lac dye and sulphuric acid, and allow it to stand for a day. Then take
tartar, 4 pounds, tin liquor, 2 pounds 8 ounces, and 3 pounds of the
paste; make a hot bath with sufficient water, and enter the goods for
3/4 hour; afterwards carefully rinse and dry.
«Crimson for Silk.»—For 1 pound of goods, use alum, 3 ounces; dip
at hand heat 1 hour; take out and drain, while making a new dye, by
boiling for 10 minutes, cochineal, 3 ounces; bruised nutgalls, 2
ounces; and cream of tartar, 1/2 ounce, in 1 pail of water. When a
little cool begin to dip, raising the heat to a boil, continuing to dip
1 hour. Wash and dry.
«Aniline Scarlet.»—For every 40 pounds of goods, dissolve 5 pounds
white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) at 180° F., place the goods in this
bath for 10 minutes, then add the color, prepared by boiling for a few
minutes, 1 pound aniline scarlet in 3 gallons water, stirring the same
continually. This solution has to be filtered before being added to
the bath. The goods remain in the latter for 15 minutes, when they have
become browned and must be boiled for another half hour in the same
bath after the solution of sal ammoniac. The more of this is added the
deeper will be the shade.
«Scarlet with Cochineal.»—For 50 pounds of wool, yarn, or cloth, use
cream of tartar, 1 pound 9 ounces; cochineal, pulverized, 12 1/2
ounces; muriate of tin or scarlet spirit, 8 pounds. After boiling the
dye, enter the goods, work them well for 15 minutes, then boil them
1 1/2 hours, slowly agitating the goods while boiling, wash in clean
water, and dry out of the sun.
«Scarlet with Lac Dye.»—For 100 pounds of flannel or yarn, take 25
pounds of ground lac dye, 15 pounds of scarlet spirit (made as per
directions below), 5 pounds of tartar, 1 pound of flavine, or according
to shade, 1 pound of tin crystals, 5 pounds of muriatic acid. Boil
all for 15 minutes, then cool the dye to 170° F. Enter the goods, and
handle them quickly at first. Let boil 1 hour, and rinse while yet hot,
before the gum and impurities harden. This color stands scouring with
soap better than cochineal scarlet. A small quantity of sulphuric acid
may be added to dissolve the gum.
«Muriate of Tin or Scarlet Spirit.»—Take 16 pounds muriatic acid, 22°
Bé.; 1 pound feathered tin, and water, 2 pounds. The acid should be put
in a stoneware pot, and the tin added, and allowed to dissolve. The
mixture should be kept a few days before using. The tin is feathered
or granulated by melting in a suitable vessel, and pouring it from a
height of about 5 feet into a pailful of water. This is a most powerful
agent in certain colors, such as scarlets, oranges, pinks, etc.
«Pink for Cotton.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use redwood, 20 pounds;
muriate of tin, 2 1/2 pounds. Boil the redwood 1 hour, turn off into
a large vessel, add the muriate of tin, and put in the goods. Let it
stand 5 or 10 minutes, and a good fast pink will be produced.
«Pink for Wool.»—For 60 pounds of goods, take alum, 5 pounds 12 ounces;
boil and immerse the goods 50 minutes; then add to the dye cochineal
well pulverized, 1 pound, 4 ounces; cream of tartar, 5 pounds; boil and
enter the goods while boiling, until the color is satisfactory.
«YELLOW, ORANGE, AND BRONZE DYES:»
«Aniline Yellow.»—This color is slightly soluble in water, and for
dyers’ use may be used directly for the preparation of the bath dye,
but is best used by dissolving 1 pound of dye in 2 gallons alcohol.
Temperature of bath should be under 200° F. The color is much improved
and brightened by a trace of sulphuric acid.
«Yellow for Cotton.»—For 40 pounds goods, use sugar of lead, 3 pounds
8 ounces; dip the goods 2 hours. Make a new dye with bichromate of
potash, 2 pounds; dip until the color suits, wring out and dry. If not
yellow enough repeat the operation.
«Yellow for Silk.»—For 10 pounds of goods, use sugar of lead, ounces;
alum, 2 pounds. Enter the goods, and let them remain 12 hours; remove
them, drain, and make a new dye with fustic, 10 pounds. Immerse until
the color suits.
«Orange.»—I.—For 50 pounds of goods, use argal, 3 pounds; muriate of
tin, 1 quart; boil and dip 1 hour; then add to the dye, fustic, 25
pounds; madder, 2 1/2 {272} quarts; and dip again 40 minutes. If
preferred, cochineal, 1 pound 4 ounces, may be used instead of the
madder, as a better color is induced by it.
II.—For 40 pounds of goods, use sugar of lead, 2 pounds, and boil 15
minutes. When a little cool, enter the goods, and dip for 2 hours,
wring them out, make a fresh dye with bichromate of potash, 4 pounds;
madder, 1 pound, and immerse until the desired color is secured. The
shade may be varied by dipping in limewater.
«Bronze.»—Sulphate or muriate of manganese dissolved in water with a
little tartaric acid imparts a beautiful bronze tint. The stuff after
being put through the solution must be turned through a weak lye of
potash, and afterwards through another of chloride of lime, to brighten
and fix it.
Prussiate of copper gives a bronze or yellowish-brown color to silk.
The piece well mordanted with blue vitriol may be passed through a
solution of prussiate of potash.
«Mulberry for Silk.»—For 5 pounds of silk, use alum, 1 pound 4 ounces;
dip 50 minutes, wash out, and make a dye with brazil wood, 5 ounces,
and logwood, 1 1/4 ounces, by boiling together. Dip in this 1/2
hour; then add more brazil wood and logwood, equal parts, until the
color suits.
«FEATHER DYES.»
I.—Cut some white curd soap in small pieces, pour boiling water on
them, and add a little pearlash. When the soap is quite dissolved, and
the mixture cool enough for the hand to bear, plunge the feathers into
it, and draw them through the hand till the dirt appears squeezed out
of them; pass them through a clean lather with some blue in it; then
rinse them in cold water with blue to give them a good color. Beat them
against the hand to shake off the water, and dry by shaking them near a
fire. When perfectly dry, coil each fiber separately with a blunt knife
or ivory folder.
II.—Black.—Immerse for 2 or 3 days in a bath, at first hot, of logwood,
8 parts, and copperas or acetate of iron, 1 part.
III.—Blue.—Same as II, but with the indigo vat.
IV.—Brown.—By using any of the brown dyes for silk or woolen.
V.—Crimson.—A mordant of alum, followed by a hot bath of brazil wood,
afterwards by a weak dye of cudbear.
VI.—Pink or Rose.—With safflower or lemon juice.
VII.—Plum.—With the red dye, followed by an alkaline bath.
VIII.—Red.—A mordant of alum, followed by a bath of brazil wood.
IX.—Yellow.—A mordant of alum, followed by a bath of turmeric or weld.
X.—Green.—Take of verdigris and verditer, of each 1 ounce; gum water, 1
pint; mix them well and dip the feathers, they having been first soaked
in hot water, into the said mixture.
XI.—Purple.—Use lake and indigo.
XII.—Carnation.—Vermilion and smalt.
«DYES FOR ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.»
The French employ velvet, fine cambric, and kid for the petals, and
taffeta for the leaves. Very recently thin plates of bleached whalebone
have been used for some portions of the artificial flowers.
Colors and Stains.—I.—Blue.—Indigo dissolved in oil of vitriol, and the
acid partly neutralized with salt of tartar or whiting.
II.—Green.—A solution of distilled verdigris.
III.—Lilac.—Liquid archil.
IV.—Red.—Carmine dissolved in a solution of salt of tartar, or in
spirits of hartshorn.
V.—Violet.—Liquid archil mixed with a little salt of tartar.
VI.—Yellow.—Tincture of turmeric. The colors are generally applied with
the fingers.
«DYES FOR FURS:»
I.—Brown.—Use tincture of logwood.
II.—Red.—Use ground brazil wood, 1/2 pound; water, 1 1/2 quarts;
cochineal, 1/2 ounce; boil the brazil wood in the water 1 hour;
strain and add the cochineal; boil 15 minutes.
III.—Scarlet.—Boil 1/2 ounce saffron in 1/2 pint of water, and pass
over the work before applying the red.
IV.—Blue.—Use logwood, 7 ounces; blue vitriol, 1 ounce; water, 22
ounces; boil.
V.—Purple.—Use logwood, 11 ounces; alum, 6 ounces; water, 29 ounces.
VI.—Green.—Use strong vinegar, 1 1/2 pints; best verdigris, 2 ounces,
ground fine; sap green, 1/4 ounce; mix all together and boil. {273}
«DYES FOR HATS.»
The hats should be at first strongly galled by boiling a long time in a
decoction of galls with a little logwood so that the dye may penetrate
into their substance; after which a proper quantity of vitriol and
decoction of logwood, with a little verdigris, are added, and the hats
kept in this mixture for a considerable time. They are afterwards put
into a fresh liquor of logwood, galls, vitriol, and verdigris, and,
when the hats are costly, or of a hair which with difficulty takes the
dye, the same process is repeated a third time. For obtaining the most
perfect color, the hair or wool is dyed blue before it is formed into
hats.