be tested over the colors. If it is an imitation, the colors will be
seen through it, while a diamond will not allow them to be seen.
A genuine diamond, rubbed on wood or metal, after having been
previously exposed to the light of the electric arc, becomes
phosphorescent in darkness, which does not occur with imitations.
Heat the stone to be tested, after giving it a coating of borax, and
let it fall into cold water. A diamond will undergo the test without
the slightest damage; the glass will be broken in pieces.
Finally, try with the fingers to crush an imitation and a genuine
diamond between two coins, and you will soon see the difference.
DIAMOND CEMENT: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.
DIARRHEA IN BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas.
DIARRHEA REMEDIES: See Cholera Remedies.
«Die Venting.»—Many pressmen have spent hours and days in the endeavor
to produce sharp and full impressions on figured patterns. If all
the deep recesses in deep-figured dies are vented to allow the air
to escape when the blow is struck, it will do much to obtain perfect
impressions, and requires only half the force that is necessary in
unvented dies. This is not known in many shops and consequently this
little air costs much in power and worry.
«DIGESTIVE POWDERS AND TABLETS.»
I.—Sodium bicarbonate 93 parts
Sodium chlorate 4 parts
Calcium carbonate 3 parts
Pepsin 5 parts
Ammonium carbonate 1 part
II.—Sodium bicarbonate 120 parts
Sodium chlorate 5 parts
Sal physiologic (see below) 4 parts
Magnesium carbonate 10 parts
III.—Pepsin, saccharated (U. S. P.) 10 drachms
Pancreatin 10 drachms
Diastase 50 drachms
Acid, lactic 40 drops
Sugar of milk 40 drachms
IV.—Pancreatin 3 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 15 parts
Milk sugar 2 parts
«Sal Physiologicum.»—The formula for this ingredient, the so-called
nutritive salt (_Nahrsalz_), is as follows:
Calcium phosphate 40 parts
Potassium sulphate 2 parts
Sodium phosphate 20 parts
Sulphuric, precipitated 5 parts
Sodium chlorate 60 parts
Magnesium phosphate 5 parts
Carlsbad salts, artificial 60 parts
Silicic acid 10 parts
Calcium fluoride 2 1/2 parts
«Digestive Tablets.»—
Powdered double refined sugar 300 parts
Subnitrate bismuth 60 parts
Saccharated pepsin 45 parts
Pancreatin 45 parts
Mucilage 35 parts
Ginger 30 parts
Mix and divide into suitable sizes. {262}
DIOGEN DEVELOPER: See Photography.
DIP FOR BRASS: See Plating and Brass.
DIPS: See Metals.
DIPS FOR CATTLE: See Disinfectants and Veterinary Formulas.
DISH WASHING: See Household Formulas
«Disinfectants»
«Disinfecting Fluids.»—
I.—Creosote 40 gallons
Rosin, powdered 56 pounds
Caustic soda lye, 38° Tw 9 gallons
Boiling water 12 gallons
Methylated spirit 1 gallon
Black treacle 14 pounds
Melt the rosin and add the creosote; run in the lyes; then add the
matter and methylated spirit mixed together, and add the treacle; boil
all till dissolved and mix well together.
II.—Hot water 120 pounds
Caustic soda lye, 38° B 120 pounds
Rosin 300 pounds
Creosote 450 pounds
Boil together the water, lye, and rosin, till dissolved; turn off steam
and stir in the creosote; keep on steam to nearly boiling all the time,
but so as not to boil over, until thoroughly incorporated.
III.—Fresh-made soap (hard yellow) 7 pounds
Gas tar 21 pounds
Water, with 2 pounds soda 21 pounds
Dissolve soap (cut in fine shavings) in the gas tar; then add slowly
the soda and water which has been dissolved.
IV.—Rosin 1 cwt.
Caustic soda lye, 18° B 16 gallons
Black tar oil 1/2 gallon
Nitro-naphthalene dissolved in boiling
water (about 1/2 gallon) 2 pounds
Melt the rosin, add the caustic lye; then stir in the tar oil and add
the nitro-naphthalene.
V.—Camphor 1 ounce
Carbolic acid (75 per cent) 12 ounces
Aqua ammonia 10 drachms
Soft salt water 8 drachms
To be diluted when required for use.
VI.—Heavy tar oil 10 gallons
Caustic soda dissolved in 5 gallons water 600° F 30 pounds
Mix the soda lyes with the oil, and heat the mixture gently with
constant stirring; add, when just on the boil, 20 pounds of refuse
fat or tallow and 20 pounds of soft soap; continue the heat until
thoroughly saponified, and add water gradually to make up 40 gallons.
Let it settle; then decant the clear liquid.
«Disinfecting Fluids or Weed-Killers.»—
I.—Cold water, 20 gallons; powdered rosin, 56 pounds; creosote oil,
40 gallons; sulphuric acid, 1/2 gallon; caustic soda lye, 30° B., 9
gallons.
Heat water and dissolve the rosin; then add creosote and boil to a
brown mass and shut off steam; next run in sulphuric acid and then the
lyes.
II.—Water 40 gallons
Powdered black rosin 56 pounds
Sulphuric acid 2 1/2 gallons
Creosote 10 gallons
Melted pitch 24 pounds
Pearlash boiled in 10 gallons water 56 pounds
Boil water and dissolve rosin and acid; then add creosote and boil well
again; add pitch and run in pearlash solution (boiling); then shut off
steam.
III. (White).—Water, 40 gallons; turpentine, 2 gallons; ammonia, 1/2
gallon; carbolic crystals, 14 pounds; caustic lyes, 2 gallons; white
sugar, 60 pounds, dissolved in 40 pounds water.
Heat water to boiling, and add first turpentine, next ammonia, and then
carbolic crystals. Stir well until thoroughly dissolved, and add lyes
and sugar solution.
«DISINFECTING POWDERS.»
I.—Sulphate of iron 100 parts
Sulphate of zinc 50 parts
Oak bark, powder 40 parts
Tar 5 parts
Oil 5 parts
II.—Mix together chloride of lime and burnt umber, add water, and set
on plates. {263}
«Blue Sanitary Powder.»—
Powdered alum 2 pounds
Oil of eucalyptus 12 ounces
Rectified spirits of tar 6 ounces
Rectified spirit of turpentine 2 ounces
Ultramarine blue (common) 3/4 ounces
Common salt 14 pounds
Mix alum with about 3 pounds of salt in a large mortar, gradually add
oil of eucalyptus and spirits, then put in the ultramarine blue, and
lastly remaining salt, mixing all well, and passing through a sieve.
«Carbolic Powder.» (Strong).—Slaked lime in fine powder, 1 cwt.;
carbolic acid, 75 per cent, 2 gallons.
Color with aniline dye and then pass through a moderately fine sieve
and put into tins or casks and keep air-tight.
«Pink Carbolized Sanitary Powder.»—
Powdered alum 6 ounces
Powdered green copperas 5 pounds
Powdered red lead 5 pounds
Calvert’s No. 5 carbolic acid 12 1/2 pounds
Spirit of turpentine 1 1/2 pounds
Calais sand 10 pounds
Slaked lime 60 pounds
Mix carbolic acid with turpentine and sand, then add the other
ingredients, lastly the slaked lime and, after mixing, pass through a
sieve. It is advisable to use lime that has been slaked some time.
«Cuspidor Powder.»—Peat rubble is ground to a powder, and 100 parts
put into a mixing machine, which can be hermetically sealed. Then 15
parts of blue vitriol are added either very finely pulverized or in
a saturated aqueous solution. Next are added 2 parts of formalin,
and lastly 1 part of ground cloves, orange peel, or a sufficient
quantity of some volatile oil, to give the desired perfume. The mixing
machine is then closed, and kept at work until the constituents
are perfectly mixed; the powder is then ready to be put up for the
market. Its purpose is to effect a rapid absorption of the sputum,
with simultaneous destruction of any microbes present, and to prevent
decomposition and consequent unpleasant odors.
«Deodorants for Water-Closets.»—
I.—Ferric chloride 4 parts
Zinc chloride 5 parts
Aluminum chloride 5 parts
Calcium chloride 4 parts
Magnesium chloride 3 parts
Water sufficient to make 90 parts
Dissolve, and add to each gallon 10 grains thymol and 1/4 ounce oil
of rosemary, previously dissolved in about 6 quarts of alcohol, and
filter.
II.—Sulphuric acid, fuming 90 parts
Potassium permanganate 45 parts
Water 4,200 parts
Dissolve the permanganate in the water, and add under the acid. This is
said to be a most powerful disinfectant, deodorizer, and germicide. It
should not be used where there are metal trimmings.
«Formaldehyde for Disinfecting Books, Papers, etc.»—The property of
formaldehyde of penetrating all kinds of paper, even when folded
together in several layers, may be utilized for a perfect disinfection
of books and letters, especially at a temperature of 86° to 122° F. in
a closed room. The degree of penetration as well as the disinfecting
power of the formaldehyde depend upon the method of generating the gas.
Letters, paper in closed envelopes, are completely disinfected only in
12 hours, books in 24 hours at a temperature of 122° F. when 70 cubic
centimeters of formo-chloral—17.5 g. of gas—per cubic meter of space
are used. Books must be stood up in such a manner that the gas can
enter from the sides. Bacilli of typhoid preserve their vitality longer
upon unsized paper and on filtering paper than on other varieties.
There is much difference of opinion as to the disinfecting and
deodorizing power of formaldehyde when used to disinfect wooden
tierces. While some have found it to answer well, others have got
variable results, or failed of success. The explanation seems to be
that those who have obtained poor results have not allowed time for
the disinfectant to penetrate the pores of the wood, the method of
application being wrong. The solution is thrown into the tierce, which
is then steamed out at once, whereby the aldehyde is volatilized before
it has had time to do its work. If the formal and the steam, instead of
being used in succession, were used together, the steam would carry the
disinfectant into the pores of the wood. But a still better plan is to
give the aldehyde more time. {264}
Another point to be remembered in all cases of disinfection by
formaldehyde is that a mechanical cleansing must precede the action of
the antiseptic. If there are thick deposits of organic matter which
can be easily dislodged with a scrubbing brush, they can only be
disinfected by the use of large quantities of formaldehyde used during
a long period of time.
«General Disinfectants.»—
I.—Alum 10 ounces
Sodium carbonate 10 ounces
Ammonium chloride 2 ounces
Zinc chloride 1 ounce
Sodium chloride 2 ounces
Hydrochloric acid, quantity sufficient.
Water to make 1 gallon.
Dissolve the alum in one half gallon of boiling water, and add the
sodium carbonate; then add hydrochloric acid until the precipitate
formed is dissolved. Dissolve the other salt in water and add to the
previous solution. Finally add enough water to make the whole measure 1
gallon, and filter.
In use, this is diluted with 7 parts of water.
II.—For the Sick Room.—In using this ventilate frequently: Guaiac, 10
parts; eucalyptol, 8 parts; phenol, 6 parts; menthol, 4 parts; thymol,
2 parts; oil of cloves, 1 part; alcohol of 90 per cent, 170 parts.
Atomizer Liquid for Sick Rooms.—
III.—Eucalyptol 10 parts by weight
Thyme oil 5 parts by weight
Lemon oil 5 parts by weight
Lavender oil 5 parts by weight
Spirit, 90 per cent 110 parts by weight
To a pint of water a teaspoonful for evaporation.
Non-Poisonous Sheep Dips.—Paste.—
I.—Creosote (containing 15 per cent
to 20 per cent of carbolic acid) 2 parts
Stearine or Yorkshire grease specific
gravity, 1340 1 part
Black rosin, 5 per cent to 10 per cent.
Melt the rosin and add grease and soda lyes, and then add creosote cold.
II.—Creosote 1 part
Crude hard rosin oil 1 part
Put rosin oil in copper and heat to about 220° F., and add as much
caustic soda powder, 98 per cent strength, as the oil will take up.
The quantity depends upon the amount of acetic acid in the oil. If too
much soda is added it will remain at the bottom. When the rosin oil has
taken up the soda add creosote, and let it stand.
«Odorless Disinfectants.»—
I.—Ferric chloride 4 parts
Zinc chloride 5 parts
Aluminum chloride 5 parts
Calcium chloride 4 parts
Manganese chloride 3 parts
Water 69 parts
If desired, 10 grains thymol and 2 fluidrachms oil of rosemary,
previously dissolved in about 12 fluidrachms of alcohol, may be added
to each gallon.
II.—Alum 10 parts
Sodium carbonate 10 parts
Ammonium chloride 2 parts
Sodium chloride 2 parts
Zinc chloride 1 part
Hydrochloric acid, sufficient.
Water 100 parts
Dissolve the alum in about 50 parts boiling water and add the sodium
carbonate. The resulting precipitate of aluminum hydrate dissolve
with the aid of just sufficient hydrochloric acid, and add the other
ingredients previously dissolved in the remainder of the water.
III.—Mercuric chloride 1 part
Cupric sulphate 10 parts
Zinc sulphate 50 parts
Sodium chloride 65 parts
Water to make 1,000 parts.
«Paris Salts.»—The disinfectant known by this name is a mixture made
from the following recipe:
Zinc sulphate 49 parts
Ammonia alum 49 parts
Potash permanganate 1 part
Lime 1 part
The ingredients are fused together, mixed with a little calcium
chloride, and perfumed with thymol.
«Platt’s Chlorides.»—
I.—Aluminum sulphate 6 ounces
Zinc chloride 1 1/2 ounces
Sodium chloride 2 ounces
Calcium chloride 3 ounces
Water enough to make 2 pints.
II.—A more elaborate formula for a preparation said to resemble the
proprietary article is as follows: {265}
Zinc, in strips 4 ounces
Lead carbonate 2 ounces
Chlorinated lime 1 ounce
Magnesium carbonate 1/2 ounce
Aluminum hydrate 1 1/2 ounces
Potassium hydrate 1/2 ounce
Hydrochloric acid 16 ounces
Water 16 ounces
Whiting, enough.
Dissolve the zinc in the acid; then add the other salts singly in the
order named, letting each dissolve before the next is added. When
all are dissolved add the water to the solution, and after a couple
of hours add a little whiting to neutralize any excess of acid; then
filter.
Zinc chloride ranks very low among disinfectants, and the use of such
solutions as these, by giving a false sense of security from disease
germs, may be the means of spreading rather than of checking the spread
of sickness.
«Disinfecting Coating.»—Carbolic acid, 2 parts; manganese, 3 parts;
calcium chloride, 2 parts; china clay, 10 parts; infusorial earth, 4
parts; dextrin, 2 parts; and water, 10 parts.
DISTEMPER IN CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.
DIURETIC BALL: See Veterinary Formulas.
DOG APPLICATIONS: See Insecticides.
«DOG BISCUIT.»
The waste portions of meat and tallow, including the skin and fiber,
have for years been imported from South American tallow factories in
the form of blocks. Most of the dog bread consists principally of these
remnants, chopped and mixed with flour. They contain a good deal of
firm fibrous tissue, and a large percentage of fat, but are lacking
in nutritive salts, which must be added to make good dog bread, just
as in the case of the meat flour made from the waste of meat extract
factories. The flesh of dead animals is not used by any reputable
manufacturers, for the reason that it gives a dark color to the dough,
has an unpleasant odor, and if not properly sterilized would be
injurious to dogs as a steady diet.
Wheat flour, containing as little bran as possible, is generally
used, oats, rye, or Indian meal being only mixed in to make special
varieties, or, as in the case of Indian meal, for cheapness. Rye flour
would give a good flavor, but it dries slowly, and the biscuits would
have to go through a special process of drying after baking, else they
would mold and spoil. Dog bread must be made from good wheat flour, of
a medium sort, mixed with 15 or 16 per cent of sweet, dry chopped meat,
well baked and dried like pilot bread or crackers. This is the rule for
all the standard dog bread on the market. There are admixtures which
affect more or less its nutritive value, such as salt, vegetables,
chopped bones, or bone meal, phosphate of lime, and other nutritive
salts. In preparing the dough and in baking, care must be taken to keep
it light and porous.
DOG DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.
DOG SOAP: See Soap.
DONARITE: See Explosives.
DOORS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
«DOSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN.»
The usual method pursued by medical men in calculating the doses of
medicine for children is to average the dose in proportion to their
approximate weight or to figure out a dose upon the assumption that at
12 years of age half of an adult dose will be about right. Calculated
on this basis the doses for those under 12 will be in direct proportion
to the age in years plus 12, divided into the age. By this rule a child
1 year old should get 1 plus 12, or 13, dividing 1, or 1/13 of an
adult dose. If the child is 2 years old it should get 2 plus 12, or 14,
dividing 2, or 1/7 of an adult dose. A child of 3 years should get
3 plus 12, or 15, dividing 3, or 1/5 of an adult dose. A child of 4
should get 4 plus 12, or 16, dividing 4, or 1/4 of an adult dose.
As both children and adults vary materially in size when of the same
age the calculation by approximate weights is the more accurate way.
Taking the weight of the average adult as 150 pounds, then a boy, man,
or woman, whatever the age, weighing only 75 pounds should receive
only one-half of an adult dose, and a man of 300 pounds, provided his
weight is the result of a properly proportioned body, and not due to
mere adipose {266} tissue, should be double that of the average adult.
If the weight is due to mere fat or to some diseased condition of the
body, such a calculation would be entirely wrong. The object of the
calculation is to get as nearly as possible to the amount of dilution
the dose undergoes in the blood or in the intestinal contents of the
patient. Each volume of blood should receive exactly the same dose in
order to give the same results, other conditions being equal.
DOSE TABLE FOR VETERINARY PURPOSES: See Veterinary Formulas.
«DRAWINGS, PRESERVATION OF.»
Working designs and sketches are easily soiled and rendered unsuitable
for further use. This can be easily avoided by coating them with
collodion, to which 24 per cent of stearine from a good stearine candle
has been added. Lay the drawing on a glass plate or a board, and pour
on the collodion, as the photographer treats his plates. After 10 or
20 minutes the design will be dry and perfectly white, possessing a
dull luster, and being so well protected that it may be washed off with
water without fear of spoiling it.
DRAWINGS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
DRIERS: See Siccatives.
DRILLING, LUBRICANT FOR: See Lubricants.
DRINKS FOR SUMMER AND WINTER: See Beverages.
DROPS, TABLE OF: See Tables.
DRYING OILS: See Oil.
DRY ROT: See Rot.
DUBBING FOR LEATHER: See Lubricants.
DUST-LAYING: See Oil.
DUST PREVENTERS AND DUST CLOTHS: See Household Formulas.
«Dyes»
In accordance with the requirements of dyers, many of the following
recipes describe dyes for large quantities of goods, but to make them
equally adapted for the use of private families they are usually given
in even quantities, so that it is an easy matter to ascertain the
quantity of materials required for dyeing, when once the weight of
the goods is known, the quantity of materials used being reduced in
proportion to the smaller quantity of goods.
Employ soft water for all dyeing purposes, if it can be procured,
using 4 gallons water to 1 pound of goods; for larger quantities a
little less water will do. Let all the implements used in dyeing be
kept perfectly clean. Prepare the goods by scouring well with soap and
water, washing out the soap well, and dipping in warm water, before
immersion in the dye or mordant. Goods should be well aired, rinsed,
and properly hung up after dyeing. Silks and fine goods should be
tenderly handled, otherwise injury to the fabric will result.
«Aniline Black.»—Water, 20 to 30 parts; chlorate of potassa, 1 part;
sal ammoniac, 1 part; chloride of copper, 1 part; aniline and
hydrochloric acid, each 1 part, previously mixed together. It is
essential that the preparation should be acid, and the more acid it is
the more rapid will be the production of the blacks; if too much so, it
may injure the fabric. The fabric or yarn is dried in ageing rooms at a
low temperature for 24 hours, and washed afterwards.
«Black on Cotton.»—For 40 pounds goods, use sumac, 30 pounds; boil
3/4 of an hour; let the goods steep overnight, and immerse them in
limewater, 40 minutes, remove, and allow them to drip 3/4 of an hour;
add copperas, 4 pounds, to the sumac liquor, and dip 1 hour more; next
work them through limewater for 20 minutes; then make a new dye of
logwood, 20 pounds, boil 2 1/2 hours, and enter the goods 3 hours;
then add bichromate of potash, 1 pound, to the new dye, and dip 1 hour
more. Work in clean cold water and dry out of the sun.
«Black Straw Hat Varnish.»—Best alcohol, 4 ounces; pulverized black
sealing wax, 1 ounce. Place in a phial, and put the phial into a warm
place, stirring or shaking occasionally until the wax is dissolved.
Apply it when warm before the fire or in the sun. This makes a
beautiful gloss. {267}
«Chrome Black for Wool.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use blue vitriol,
3 pounds; boil a short time, then dip the wool or fabric 3/4 of
an hour, airing frequently. Take out the goods, and make a dye with
logwood, 24 pounds; boil 1/2 hour, dip 3/4 of an hour, air the
goods, and dip 1/4 of an hour longer; then wash in strong soapsuds. A
good fast color.
«Black Dye on Wool, for Mixtures.»—For 50 pounds of wool, take
bichromate of potash, 1 pound, 4 ounces; ground argal, 15 ounces; boil
together and put in the fabric, stirring well, and let it remain in the
dye 5 hours. Take it out, rinse slightly in clean water, then make a
new dye, into which put logwood, 1 1/2 pounds. Boil 1 1/4 hours,
adding chamber lye, 5 pints. Let the fabric remain in all night, and
wash out in clean water.
«Bismarck Brown.»—Mix together 1 pound Bismarck, 5 gallons water, and
3/4 pound sulphuric acid. This paste dissolves easily in hot water
and may be used directly for dyeing. A liquid dye may be prepared by
making the bulk of the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol. To dye,
sour with sulphuric acid; add a quantity of sulphate of soda, immerse
the wool, and add the color by small portions, keeping the temperature
under 212° F. Very interesting shades may be developed by combining the
color with indigo paste or picric acid.
«Chestnut Brown for Straw Bonnets.»—For 25 hats, use ground sanders,
1 1/2 pounds; ground curcuma, 2 pounds; powdered gallnuts or sumac,
3/4 pound; rasped logwood, 1/10 pound. Boil together with the hats
in a large kettle (so as not to crowd), for 2 hours, then withdraw the
hats, rinse, and let them remain overnight in a bath of nitrate of 4°
Bé., when they are washed. A darker brown may be obtained by increasing
the quantity of sanders. To give the hats the desired luster, they are
brushed with a brush of couchgrass, when dry.
«Cinnamon or Brown for Cotton and Silk.»—Give the goods as much color,
from a solution of blue vitriol, 2 ounces, to water, 1 gallon, as they
will take up in dipping 15 minutes; then turn them through limewater.
This will make a beautiful sky blue of much durability. The fabric
should next be run through a solution of prussiate of potash, 1 ounce,
to water, 1 gallon.
«Brown Dye for Cotton or Linen.»—Give the pieces a mixed mordant of
acetate of alumina and acetate of iron, and then dye them in a bath of
madder, or madder and fustic. When the acetate of alumina predominates,
the dye has an amaranth tint. A cinnamon tint is obtained by first
giving a mordant of alum, next a madder bath, then a bath of fustic, to
which a little green copperas has been added.
«Brown for Silk.»—Dissolve annatto, 1 pound; pearlash, 4 pounds, in
boiling water, and pass the silk through it for 2 hours; then take
it out, squeeze well, and dry. Next give it a mordant of alum, and
pass through a bath of brazil wood, and afterwards through a bath of
logwood, to which a little green copperas has been added; wring it out
and dry; afterwards rinse well.
«Brown Dye for Wool.»—This may be induced by a decoction of oak bark,
with variety of shade according to the quantity employed. If the goods
be first passed through a mordant of alum the color will be brightened.