Weather cloudy and cold. Landed to examine Burnt Hills, and again on an
island for pea-vines. Fresh signs of Indians. Saw many Antelopes and
Mule Deer. At twelve saw a bull on one side of the river, and in a few
moments after a herd of ten cattle on the other side. Landed, and
Squires, Harris, Bell, and Provost have gone to try to procure fresh
meat; these are the first Buffaloes seen since we left Fort Pierre. The
hunters only killed one bull; no cows among eleven bulls, and this is
strange at this season. Saw three more bulls in a ravine. Stopped to
camp at the lower end of great Cedar Island at five o'clock. Fresh signs
of Buffaloes and Deer. We cut some timber for oars. Rain set in early in
the evening, and it rained hard all night.
_Friday, 22d._ Raining; left at a quarter past eight, with the wind
ahead. Distant thunder. Everything wet and dirty after a very
uncomfortable night. We went down the river about a mile, when we were
forced to come to on the opposite side by the wind and the rain. Played
cards for a couple of hours. No chance to cook or get hot coffee, on
account of the heavy storm. We dropped down a few miles and finally
camped till next day in the mud, but managed to make a roaring fire.
Wolves in numbers howling all about us, and Owls hooting also. Still
raining heavily. We played cards till nine o'clock to kill time. Our
boat a quagmire.
_Saturday, 23d._ A cloudy morning; we left at six o'clock. Five Wolves
were on a sand-bar very near us. Saw Red-shafted Woodpeckers, and two
House Swallows. Have made a good run of about sixty miles. At four this
afternoon we took in three men of the steamer "New Haven" belonging to
the Opposition, which was fast on the bar, eight miles below. We reached
Ponca Island and landed for the night. At dusk the steamer came up, and
landed above us, and we found Messrs. Cutting and Taylor, and I had the
gratification of a letter from Victor and Johnny, of July 22d.
_Sunday, 24th._ Cloudy, windy, and cold. Both the steamer and ourselves
left as soon as we could see. Saw a Wolf on a bar, and a large flock of
White Pelicans, which we took at first for a keel-boat. Passed the
Poncas, L'Eau qui Court, Manuel, and Basil rivers by ten o'clock.[38]
Landed just below Basil River, stopped by wind. Hunted and shot one
Raven, one Turkey Buzzard, and four Wood-ducks. Ripe plums abound, and
there are garfish in the creek. Found feathers of the Wild Turkey. Signs
of Indians, Elks, and Deer. Provost and the men made four new oars. Went
to bed early.
_Monday, 25th._ Blowing hard all night, and began raining before day.
Cold, wet, and misty. Started at a quarter past ten, passed Bonhomme
Island at four, and landed for the night at five, fifteen miles below.
_Tuesday, 26th._ Cold and cloudy; started early. Shot a Pelican. Passed
Jack's River at eleven. Abundance of Wild Geese. Bell killed a young
White Pelican. Weather fairer but coldish. Sprague killed a Goose, but
it was lost. Camped a few miles above the Vermilion River. Harris saw
Raccoon tracks on Basil River.
_Wednesday, 27th._ Cloudy but calm. Many Wood-ducks, and saw Raccoon
tracks again this morning. Passed the Vermilion River at half-past
seven. My Badger got out of his cage last night, and we had to light a
candle to secure it. We reached the Fort of Vermilion at twelve, and
met with a kind reception from Mr. Pascal. Previous to this we met a
barge going up, owned and commanded by Mr. Tybell, and found our good
hunter Michaux. He asked me to take him down, and I promised him $20 per
month to St. Louis. We bought two barrels of superb potatoes, two of
corn, and a good fat cow. For the corn and potatoes I paid no less than
$16.00.
_Thursday, 28th._ A beautiful morning, and we left at eight. The young
man who brought me the calf at Fort George has married a squaw, a
handsome girl, and she is here with him. Antelopes are found about
twenty-five miles from this fort, but not frequently. Landed fifteen
miles below on Elk Point. Cut up and salted the cow. Provost and I went
hunting, and saw three female Elks, but the order was to shoot only
bucks; a large one started below us, jumped into the river, and swam
across, carrying his horns flat down and spread on each side of his
back; the neck looked to me about the size of a flour-barrel. Harris
killed a hen Turkey, and Bell and the others saw plenty but did not
shoot, as Elks were the order of the day. I cannot eat beef after being
fed on Buffaloes. I am getting an old man, for this evening I missed my
footing on getting into the boat, and bruised my knee and my elbow, but
at seventy and over I cannot have the spring of seventeen.
_Friday, 29th._ Rained most of the night, and it is raining and blowing
at present. Crossed the river and have encamped at the mouth of the Iowa
River,[39] the boundary line of the Sioux and Omahas. Harris shot a
Wolf. My knee too sore to allow me to walk. Stormy all day.
_Saturday, 30th._ Hard rain all night, the water rose four inches.
Found a new species of large bean in the Wild Turkey. Mosquitoes rather
troublesome. The sun shining by eight o'clock, and we hope for a good
dry day. Whip-poor-wills heard last night, and Night-hawks seen flying.
Saw a Long-tailed Squirrel that ran on the shore at the cry of our
Badger. Michaux had the boat landed to bring on a superb set of
Elk-horns that he secured last week. Abundance of Geese and Ducks.
Weather clouding over again, and at two we were struck by a heavy gale
of wind, and were obliged to land on the weather shore; the wind
continued heavy, and the motion of the boat was too much for me, so I
slipped on shore and with Michaux made a good camp, where we rolled
ourselves in our blankets and slept soundly.
_Sunday, October 1._ The wind changed, and lulled before morning, so we
left at a quarter past six. The skies looked rather better, nevertheless
we had several showers. Passed the [Big] Sioux River at twenty minutes
past eleven. Heard a Pileated Woodpecker, and saw Fish Crows. Geese very
abundant. Landed below the Sioux River to shoot Turkeys, having seen a
large male on the bluffs. Bell killed a hen, and Harris two young birds;
these will keep us going some days. Stopped again by the wind opposite
Floyd's grave; started again and ran about four miles, when we were
obliged to land in a rascally place at twelve o'clock. Had hail and rain
at intervals. Camped at the mouth of the Omaha River, six miles from the
village. The wild Geese are innumerable. The wind has ceased and stars
are shining.
_Monday, 2d._ Beautiful but _cold_. The water has risen nine inches, and
we travel well. Started early. Stopped at eight by the wind at a vile
place, but plenty of Jerusalem artichokes, which we tried and found very
good. Started again at three, and made a good run till sundown, when we
found a fair camping-place and made our supper from excellent young
Geese.
_Tuesday, 3d._ A beautiful, calm morning; we started early. Saw three
Deer on the bank. A Prairie Wolf travelled on the shore beside us for a
long time before he found a place to get up on the prairie. Plenty of
Sandhill Cranes were seen as we passed the Little Sioux River. Saw three
more Deer, another Wolf, two Swans, several Pelicans, and abundance of
Geese and Ducks. Passed Soldier River at two o'clock. We were caught by
a snag that scraped and tore us a little. Had we been two feet nearer,
it would have ruined our barge. We passed through a very swift cut-off,
most difficult of entrance. We have run eighty-two miles and encamped at
the mouth of the cut-off, near the old bluffs. Killed two Mallards; the
Geese and Ducks are abundant beyond description. Brag, Harris' dog,
stole and hid all the meat that had been cooked for our supper.
_Wednesday, 4th._ Cloudy and coldish. Left early and can't find my
pocket knife, which I fear I have lost. We were stopped by the wind at
Cabane Bluffs, about twenty miles above Fort Croghan; we all hunted,
with only fair results. Saw some hazel bushes, and some black walnuts.
Wind-bound till night, and nothing done.
_Thursday, 5th._ Blew hard all night, but a clear and beautiful sunrise.
Started early, but stopped by the wind at eight. Bell, Harris, and
Squires have started off for Fort Croghan. As there was every appearance
of rain we left at three and reached the fort about half-past four.
Found all well, and were most kindly received. We were presented with
some green corn, and had a quantity of bread made, also bought thirteen
eggs from an Indian for twenty-five cents. Honey bees are found here,
and do well, but none are seen above this place. I had an unexpected
slide on the bank, as it had rained this afternoon; and Squires had also
one at twelve in the night, when he and Harris with Sprague came to the
boat after having played whist up to that hour.
_Friday, 6th._ Some rain and thunder last night. A tolerable day.
Breakfast at the camp, and left at half-past eight. Our man Michaux was
passed over to the officer's boat, to steer them down to Fort
Leavenworth, where they are ordered, but we are to keep in company, and
he is to cook for us at night. The whole station here is broken up, and
Captain Burgwin[40] leaves in a few hours by land with the dragoons,
horses, etc. Stopped at Belle Vue at nine, and had a kind reception;
bought 6 lbs. coffee, 13 eggs, 2 lbs. butter, and some black pepper.
Abundance of Indians, of four different nations. Major Miller, the
agent, is a good man for this place. Left again at eleven. A fine day.
Passed the Platte and its hundreds of snags, at a quarter past one, and
stopped for the men to dine. The stream quite full, and we saw some
squaws on the bar, the village was in sight. Killed two Pelicans, but
only got one. Encamped about thirty miles below Fort Croghan. Lieutenant
Carleton supped with us, and we had a rubber of whist.
_Saturday, 7th._ Fine night, and fine morning. Started too early, while
yet dark, and got on a bar. Passed McPherson's, the first house in the
State of Missouri, at eight o'clock. Bell skinned the young of
_Fringilla harrisi_. Lieutenant Carleton came on board to breakfast with
us--a fine companion and a perfect gentleman. Indian war-whoops were
heard by him and his men whilst embarking this morning after we left. We
encamped at the mouth of Nishnebottana, a fine, clear stream. Went to
the house of Mr. Beaumont, who has a pretty wife. We made a fine run of
sixty or seventy miles.
_Sunday, 8th._ Cloudy, started early, and had rain by eight o'clock.
Stopped twice by the storm, and played cards to relieve the dulness.
Started at noon, and ran till half-past four. The wind blowing hard we
stopped at a good place for our encampment. Presented a plate of the
quadrupeds to Lieut. James Henry Carleton,[41] and he gave me a fine
Black Bear skin, and has promised me a set of Elk horns. Stopped on the
east side of the river in the evening. Saw a remarkably large flock of
Geese passing southward.
_Monday, 9th._ Beautiful and calm; started early. Bell shot a Gray
Squirrel, which was divided and given to my Fox and my Badger. Squires,
Carleton, Harris, Bell, and Sprague walked across the Bend to the Black
Snake Hills, and killed six Gray Squirrels, four Parrakeets, and two
Partridges. Bought butter, eggs, and some whiskey for the men; exchanged
knives with the lieutenant. Started and ran twelve miles to a good camp
on the Indian side.
_Tuesday, 10th._ Beautiful morning, rather windy; started early. Great
flocks of Geese and Pelicans; killed two of the latter. Reached Fort
Leavenworth at four, and, as usual everywhere, received most kindly
treatment and reception from Major Morton. Lieutenant Carleton gave me
the Elk horns. Wrote to John Bachman, Gideon B. Smith, and a long letter
home.
_Wednesday, 11th._ Received a most welcome present of melons, chickens,
bread, and butter from the generous major. Lieutenant Carleton came to
see me off, and we parted reluctantly. Left at half-past six; weather
calm and beautiful. Game scarce, paw-paws plentiful. Stopped at Madame
Chouteau's, where I bought three pumpkins. Stopped at Liberty Landing
and delivered the letters of Laidlow to Black Harris. Reached
Independence Landing at sundown; have run sixty miles. Found no letters.
Steamer "Lebanon" passed upwards at half-past eight.
_Thursday, 12th._ Beautiful and calm; stopped and bought eggs, etc., at
a Mr. Shivers', from Kentucky. Ran well to Lexington, where we again
stopped for provisions; ran sixty miles to-day.
_Friday, 13th._ Heavy white frost, and very foggy. Started early and ran
well. Tried to buy butter at several places, but in vain. At Greenville
bought coffee. Abundance of Geese and White Pelicans; many Sandhill
Cranes. Harris killed a Wood-duck. Passed Grand River; stopped at New
Brunswick, where we bought excellent beef at 21/2 cents a pound, but very
inferior to Buffalo. Camped at a deserted wood yard, after running
between sixty and seventy miles.
_Saturday, 14th._ A windy night, and after eight days' good run, I fear
we shall be delayed to-day. Stopped by a high wind at twelve o'clock. We
ran ashore, and I undertook to push the boat afloat, and undressing for
the purpose got so deep in the mud that I had to spend a much longer
time than I desired in very cold water. Visited two farm houses, and
bought chickens, eggs, and butter; very little of this last. At one
place we procured corn bread. The squatter visited our boat, and we
camped near him. He seemed a good man; was from North Carolina, and had
a fine family. Michaux killed two Hutchins' Geese,[42] the first I ever
saw in the flesh. Ran about twenty miles; steamer "Lebanon" passed us
going downwards, one hour before sunset. Turkeys and Long-tailed
Squirrels very abundant.
_Sunday, 15th._ Cold, foggy, and cloudy; started early. Passed Chariton
River and village, and Glasgow; bought bread, and oats for my Deer.
Abundance of Geese and Ducks. Passed Arrow Rock at eleven. Passed
Boonesville, the finest country on this river; Rocheport, with high,
rocky cliffs; six miles below which we encamped, having run sixty miles.
_Monday, 16th._ Beautiful autumnal morning, a heavy white frost and no
wind. Started early, before six. The current very strong. Passed
Nashville, Marion, and steamer "Lexington" going up. Jefferson City at
twelve. Passed the Osage River and saw twenty-four Deer opposite Smith
Landing; camped at sundown, and found Giraud, the "strong man." Ran
sixty-one miles. Met the steamer "Satan," badly steered. Abundance of
Geese and Ducks everywhere.
_Tuesday, 17th._ Calm and very foggy. Started early and floated a good
deal with the strong current. Saw two Deer. The fog cleared off by nine
o'clock. Passed the Gasconade River at half-past nine. Landed at
Pinckney to buy bread, etc. Buffaloes have been seen mired, and unable
to defend themselves, and the Wolves actually eating their noses while
they struggled, but were eventually killed by the Wolves. Passed
Washington and encamped below it at sundown; a good run.
_Wednesday, 18th._ Fine and calm; started very early. Passed Mount
Pleasant. Landed at St. Charles to purchase bread, etc. Provost became
extremely drunk, and went off by land to St. Louis. Passed the
Charbonniere River, and encamped about one mile below. The steamer
"Tobacco Plant" landed on the shore opposite. Bell and Harris killed a
number of Gray Squirrels.
_Thursday, 19th._ A heavy white frost, foggy, but calm. We started
early, the steamer after us. Forced by the fog to stop on a bar, but
reached St. Louis at three in the afternoon. Unloaded and sent all the
things to Nicholas Berthoud's warehouse. Wrote home.
Left St. Louis October 22, in steamer "Nautilus" for Cincinnati.
Reached home at 3 P.M., November 6th, 1843, and thank God, found all my
family quite well.[43]
[COPIED FROM BELL'S JOURNAL.[44]]
"_August 2._ Started at half-past seven this morning; saw several
Yellow-legs (Godwits), and some young Blue-winged Teal in the pond in
the first prairie. Shot two Curlews; saw two very fine male Elks; they
were lying down quite near us, under a bank where they got the wind of
us. The Sharp-tailed Grouse are first-rate eating now, as they feed
entirely on grasshoppers, and berries of different kinds. Owen climbed
a tree to a White-headed Eagle's nest, and drove a young one out,
which fell to the ground and was caught alive, and brought to the
fort. Is it not very remarkable that Eagles of this species should
have their young in the nest at this late season, when in the Floridas
I have shot them of the same size in February? Shot at a Wolf, which
being wounded, went off about one hundred yards, and yelled like a
dog; a very remarkable instance, as all we have killed or wounded, and
they have been many, rarely make any sound, and if they do it is
simply a snapping at their pursuer. As we went up the Missouri on the
7th instant, I found numbers of Cliff Swallow's nests, with the old
ones feeding their young. This is also very late and uncommon at this
season. Saw a Peregrine Falcon feeding its young. La Fleur shot two
bucks of the White-tailed Deer with two shots, and the meat, which
we brought home, proved fat and good. Saw Beaver tracks, and young
Green-winged Teals. We saw hills impregnated with sulphur and coal,
some of them on fire, and now and then portions of them gave way, by
hundreds of tons at a time. In one place I saw a vein of coal on fire;
we were following a path close to the foot of a high hill, and at a
turn as we looked ahead, we found the way suddenly blocked by the
earth falling down from above us, and looking up saw a line of coal,
or other dark substance; it was about two feet thick, and about
seventy-five feet from the bottom and forty from the top. It was
burning very slowly, and in several places, for about fifty yards,
emitting whitish smoke, something like sulphur when burning, and
turning the earth or rock above, quite red, or of a brick color. It
would undermine the earth above, which then fell in large masses, and
this was the cause of the obstruction in the path before us. It must
have been burning for a long time, as it had already burned some
distance along the hill, and hundreds of tons of earth had fallen. In
some places I saw banks of clay twenty feet high, quite red, hard in
some parts, and in others very scaly and soft, even crumbling to
pieces. Where the fire was burning, the clay was red, varying from one
to three feet in thickness; no appearance of coal presented itself
where the fire had passed along and was extinguished, but very
distinct above the fire, and I have no doubt there is a small quantity
of sulphur mixed with this coal, or whatever the substance may be. In
another place a short distance from these hills, and in a ravine, I
also saw some red stones which looked very much as if the corners of a
house which had once been there still remained, with the remnants of
two sides yet straight. These stones varied from six to twenty inches
in thickness, and many of them were square and about eighteen or
twenty feet high; we had not time to remain and examine and measure as
carefully as I should have liked to do."
[Illustration: MRS. AUDUBON, 1854.
FROM A DAGUERREOTYPE.]
EXTRACTS from Mr. Culbertson's Journal, kept at Fort McKenzie, Blackfeet
Indian Country in 1834.[45]
"_Friday, June 13._ Blood Indians started this morning to go to war
against the Crows. They had not left long, when the 'Old Bull's
Backfat's' son, with his sister, brother, and brother-in-law, returned
to the fort, saying they must go back to the camp. After I had given
them tobacco and ammunition they all started, but did not get more than
two miles from the fort before they were all killed by the Crows, except
one, who by some means leaped on one of the Crow horses and fled to the
fort. The squaw no doubt was taken prisoner, as in the evening I went
out and found the bodies of her husband and brother, but she was not
there. On Saturday, the 14th, I went out and brought in the bodies, and
had them decently interred. The young man who had escaped was only
slightly wounded, and started again for the camp with three Gros
Ventres.
"_Tuesday, 24th._ We were all surprised this evening at the arrival of
the squaw who had been taken prisoner, and who had been carried to the
Crow village where she was kept tied every night until the one in which
she made her escape. During the previous day having it in contemplation
to escape, she took the precaution of hiding a knife under her garment
of skins, but most unfortunately she went out with one of the Crow
squaws, and in stooping, the knife fell out; this was reported, and as a
punishment she was stripped of every particle of clothing, and when
night came was not tied, as it was not imagined she would leave the
cover of the tent. However, she decided nothing should keep her from
availing herself of the only opportunity she might ever have; she
started with _absolutely no covering of any kind_, and in this plight
she travelled across the prairies, almost without stopping to rest, and
with little food, for _four days and three nights_; unfortunately the
weather was unusually cold for the season, as well as wet. She arrived
at the fort in a most wretched and pitiable condition, but greatly to
the joy and consolation of her relations and friends. She said that
after her arrival at the Crow village, they made her dance with the
scalps of her brother and husband tied to her hair, and clothed in the
bloody shirt of the latter. On Wednesday, 25th, a band of four hundred
Crows arrived with the intention of taking the fort by stratagem if they
could get the opportunity; but they failed in this, as I would not allow
one of them inside the fort, or to come within firing distance of their
arms. They used every artifice in their power to persuade me to let in a
few of them to smoke the pipe of peace, assuring me that their
intentions were good, and that they loved the white people. Finding all
this of no avail, they brought their best horses to give to me, for
which they did not wish to receive anything more than the privilege of
letting some of them come in; but all this was in vain, as I was well
aware of their treacherous intentions. I divided my men in the two
bastions, with orders to fire upon the first one that might approach
during the night, and warned them of my having given such orders,
telling them that I did not wish to strike the first blow, but that if
they commenced they would go off with small numbers, and sore hearts.
There was an American with them who now told me of their intentions, and
that they were determined to take the fort. I sent them word by him that
we were ready for them if they thought themselves able to do so, and to
come and try; but when they saw our cannon pointed towards them, they
were not so anxious to make a rush. On the 26th the Crows made another
attempt to get in, but after a long and persuasive talk they found that
it would not do. They then crossed the river and came on the high bank
opposite to the fort, and fired upon us, and while some of them were yet
crossing the river I let loose a cannon ball among them, which, if it
did no harm, made them move at a quick pace, and after a while they all
went off, leaving us without food of any sort; but fortunately on Monday
the 30th, a party of Blood Indians came in from the Crows with fifteen
horses and considerable meat. The Crows had taken all our horses shortly
before, and promised to return them in a few days if I would let them
in. I was also informed that they had even brought pack-horses to carry
off the goods from the fort after having accomplished the destruction of
the building and the massacre of ourselves."
From these extracts the nature of the Indians of these regions may be
exemplified a thousand times better, _because true_, than by all the
trashy stuff written and published by Mr. Catlin.
DESCRIPTION OF FORT UNION
BY EDWIN T. DENIG. JULY 30, 1843