untouched since killed. Stopped to make an oar, when I caught four
catfish. "Kayac" is the French Missourian's name for Buffalo Bluffs,
original French for Moose; in Assiniboin "Tah-Tah," in Blackfoot
"Sick-e-chi-choo," in Sioux "Tah-Tah." Fifteen to twenty female Elks
drinking, tried to approach them, but they broke and ran off to the
willows and disappeared. We landed and pursued them. Bell shot at one,
but did not find it, though it was badly wounded. These animals are at
times unwary, but at others vigilant, suspicious, and well aware of the
coming of their enemies.
_Saturday, 19th._ Wolves howling, and bulls roaring, just like the long
continued roll of a hundred drums. Saw large gangs of Buffaloes walking
along the river. Headed Knife River one and a half miles. Fresh signs of
Indians, burning wood embers, etc. I knocked a cow down with two balls,
and Mr. Culbertson killed her. Abundance of Bear tracks. Saw a great
number of bushes bearing the berries of which Mrs. Culbertson has given
me a necklace. Herds of Buffaloes on the prairies. Mr. Culbertson
killed another cow, and in going to see it I had a severe fall over a
partially sunken log. Bell killed a doe and wounded the fawn.
_Sunday, 20th._ _Tamias quadrivittatus_ runs up trees; abundance of them
in the ravine, and Harris killed one. Bell wounded an Antelope.
Thousands upon thousands of Buffaloes; the roaring of these animals
resembles the grunting of hogs, with a rolling sound from the throat.
Mr. C. killed two cows, Sprague killed one bull, and I made two sketches
of it after death. The men killed a cow, and the bull would not leave
her although shot four times. Stopped by the high winds all this day.
Suffered much from my fall.
_Monday, 21st._ Buffaloes all over the bars and prairies, and many
swimming; the roaring can be heard for miles. The wind stopped us again
at eight o'clock; breakfasted near the tracks of Bears surrounded by
hundreds of Buffaloes. We left our safe anchorage and good
hunting-grounds too soon; the wind blew high, and we were obliged to
land again on the opposite shore, where the gale has proved very
annoying. Bear tracks led us to search for those animals, but in vain.
Collected seeds. Shot at a Rabbit, but have done nothing. Saw many young
and old Ducks,--Black Mallards and Gadwalls. I shot a bull and broke his
thigh, and then shot at him thirteen times before killing. Camped at the
same place.
_Tuesday, 22d._ Left early and travelled about twelve miles. Went
hunting Elks. Mr. Culbertson killed a Deer, and he and Squires brought
the meat in on their backs. I saw nothing, but heard shots which I
thought were from Harris. I ran for upwards of a mile to look for him,
hallooing the whole distance, but saw nothing of him. Sent three men who
hallooed also, but came back without further intelligence. Bell shot a
female Elk and brought in part of the meat. We walked to the Little
Missouri and shot the fourth bull this trip. We saw many Ducks. In the
afternoon we started again, and went below the Little Missouri, returned
to the bull and took his horns, etc. Coming back to the boat Sprague saw
a Bear; we went towards the spot; the fellow had turned under the high
bank and was killed in a few seconds. Mr. Culbertson shot it first
through the neck, Bell and I in the body.
_Wednesday, 23d._ Provost skinned the Bear. No Prairie-Dogs caught. The
wind high and cold. Later two Prairie-Dogs were shot; their notes
resemble precisely those of the Arkansas Flycatcher. Left this afternoon
and travelled about ten miles. Saw another Bear and closely observed its
movements. We saw several drowned Buffaloes, and were passed by Wolves
and Passenger Pigeons. Camped in a bad place under a sky with every
appearance of rain.
_Thursday, 24th._ A bad night of wind, very cloudy; left early, as the
wind lulled and it became calm. Passed "L'Ours qui danse," travelled
about twenty miles, when we were again stopped by the wind. Hunted, but
found nothing. The fat of our Bear gave us seven bottles of oil. We
heard what some thought to be guns, but I believed it to be the falling
of the banks. Then the Wolves howled so curiously that it was supposed
they were Indian dogs. We went to bed all prepared for action in case of
an attack; pistols, knives, etc., but I slept very well, though rather
cold.
_Friday, 25th._ Fair, but foggy, so we did not start early. I found some
curious stones with impressions of shells. It was quite calm, and we
passed the two Riccaree winter villages. Many Eagles and Peregrine
Falcons. Shot another bull. Passed the Gros Ventre village at noon; no
game about the place. "La Main Gauche," an Assiniboin chief of great
renown, left seventy warriors killed and thirty wounded on the prairie
opposite, the year following the small-pox. The Gros Ventres are a
courageous tribe. Reached the Mandan village; hundreds of Indians swam
to us with handkerchiefs tied on their heads like turbans. Our old
friend "Four Bears" met us on the shore; I gave him eight pounds of
tobacco. He came on board and went down with us to Fort Clark, which we
reached at four o'clock. Mr. Culbertson and Squires rode out to the Gros
Ventre village with "Four Bears" after dark, and returned about eleven;
they met with another chief who curiously enough was called "The Iron
Bear."
_Saturday, 26th._ Fine, but a cold, penetrating wind. Started early and
landed to breakfast. A canoe passed us with two men from the Opposition.
We were stopped by the wind for four hours, but started again at three;
passed the Butte Quarre at a quarter past five, followed now by the
canoe, as the two fellows are afraid of Indians, and want to come on
board our boat; we have not room for them, but will let them travel with
us. Landed for the night, and walked to the top of one of the buttes
from which we had a fine and very extensive view. Saw a herd of
Buffaloes, which we approached, but by accident did not kill a cow.
Harris, whom we thought far off, shot too soon and Moncrevier and the
rest of us lost our chances. We heard Elks whistling, and saw many
Swans. The canoe men camped close to us.
_Sunday, 27th._ Started early in company with the canoe. Saw four Wolves
and six bulls, the latter to our sorrow in a compact group and therefore
difficult to attack. They are poor at this season, and the meat very
rank, but yet are fresh meat. The wind continued high, but we landed in
the weeds assisted by the canoe men, as we saw a gang of cows. We lost
them almost immediately though we saw their _wet tracks_ and followed
them for over a mile, but then gave up the chase. On returning to the
river we missed the boat, as she had been removed to a better landing
below; so we had quite a search for her. Mrs. Culbertson worked at the
_parfleche_ with Golden Eagle feathers; she had killed the bird herself.
Stopped by the wind at noon. Walked off and saw Buffaloes, but the wind
was adverse. Bell and Harris, however, killed a cow, a single one, that
had been wounded, whether by shot or by an arrow no one can tell. We saw
a bull on a sand-bar; the poor fool took to the water and swam so as to
meet us. We shot at him about a dozen times, I shot him through one eye,
Bell, Harris, and Sprague about the head, and yet the animal made for
our boat and came so close that Mr. Culbertson touched him with a pole,
when he turned off and swam across the river, but acted as if wild or
crazy; he ran on a sand-bar, and at last swam again to the opposite
shore, in my opinion to die, but Mr. Culbertson says he may live for a
month. We landed in a good harbor on the east side about an hour before
sundown. Moncrevier caught a catfish that weighed sixteen pounds, a fine
fish, though the smaller ones are better eating.
_Monday, 28th._ A gale all night and this morning also. We are in a good
place for hunting, and I hope to have more to say anon. The men returned
and told us of many Bear tracks, and four of us started off. Such a walk
I do not remember; it was awful--mire, willows, vines, holes, fallen
logs; we returned much fatigued and having seen nothing. The wind
blowing fiercely.
_Tuesday, 29th._ Heavy wind all night. Bad dreams about my own Lucy.
Walked some distance along the shores and caught many catfish. Two Deer
on the other shore. Cut a cotton-tree to fasten to the boat to break the
force of the waves. The weather has become sultry. Beavers during the
winter oftentimes come down amid the ice, but enter any small stream
they meet with at once. Apple River, or Creek, was formerly a good place
for them, as well as Cannon Ball River. Saw a Musk-rat this morning
swimming by our barge. Slept on a muddy bar with abundance of
mosquitoes.
_Wednesday, 30th._ Started at daylight. Mr. Culbertson and I went off to
the prairies over the most infernal ground I ever saw, but we reached
the high prairies by dint of industry, through swamps and mire. We saw
two bulls, two calves, and one cow; we killed the cow and the larger
calf, a beautiful young bull; returned to the boat through the most
abominable swamp I ever travelled through, and reached the boat at one
o'clock, thirsty and hungry enough. Bell and all the men went after the
meat and the skin of the young bull. I shot the cow, but missed the calf
by shooting above it. We started later and made about ten miles before
sunset.
_Thursday, 31st._ Started early; fine and calm. Saw large flocks of
Ducks, Geese, and Swans; also four Wolves. Passed Mr. Primeau's winter
trading-house; reached Cannon Ball River at half-past twelve. No game;
water good-tasted, but warm. Dinner on shore. Saw a Rock Wren on the
bluffs here. Saw the prairie on fire, and signs of Indians on both
sides. Weather cloudy and hot. Reached Beaver Creek. Provost went after
Beavers, but found none. Caught fourteen catfish. Saw a wonderful
example of the power of the Buffalo in working through the heavy, miry
bottom lands.
_Friday, September 1._ Hard rain most of the night, and uncomfortably
hot. Left our encampment at eight o'clock. Saw Buffaloes and landed, but
on approaching them found only bulls; so returned empty-handed to the
boat, and started anew. We landed for the night on a large sand-bar
connected with the mainland, and saw a large gang of Buffaloes, and Mr.
Culbertson and a man went off; they shot at two cows and killed one, but
lost her, as she fell in the river and floated down stream, and it was
dusk. A heavy cloud arose in the west, thunder was heard, yet the moon
and stars shone brightly. After midnight rain came on. The mosquitoes
are far too abundant for comfort.
_Saturday, September 2._ Fine but windy. Went about ten miles and
stopped, for the gale was so severe. No fresh meat on board. Saw eight
Wolves, four white ones. Walked six miles on the prairies, but saw only
three bulls. The wind has risen to a gale. Saw abundance of
Black-breasted Prairie Larks, and a pond with Black Ducks. Returned to
the pond after dinner and killed four Ducks.
_Sunday, 3d._ Beautiful, calm, and cold. Left early and at noon put
ashore to kill a bull, having no fresh meat on board. He took the wind
and ran off. Touched on a bar, and I went overboard to assist in pushing
off and found the water very pleasant, for our cold morning had turned
into a hot day. Harris shot a Prairie Wolf. At half-past four saw ten or
twelve Buffaloes. Mr. Culbertson, Bell, a canoe man, and I, went after
them; the cattle took to the river, and we went in pursuit; the other
canoe man landed, and ran along the shore, but could not head them. He
shot, however, and as the cattle reached the bank we gave them a volley,
but uselessly, and are again under way. Bell and Mr. C. were well mired
and greatly exhausted in consequence. No meat for another day. Stopped
for the night at the mouth of the Moreau River. Wild Pigeons,
Sandpipers, but no fish.
_Monday, 4th._ Cool night. Wind rose early, but a fine morning. Stopped
by the wind at eleven. Mr. Culbertson, Bell, and Moncrevier gone
shooting. Many signs of Elk, etc., and flocks of Wild Pigeons. A bad
place for hunting, but good for safety. Found Beaver tracks, and small
trees cut down by them. Provost followed the bank and found their lodge,
which he says is an old one. It is at present a mass of sticks of
different sizes matted together, and fresh tracks are all around it. To
dig them out would have proved impossible, and we hope to catch them in
traps to-night. Beavers often feed on berries when they can reach them,
especially Buffalo berries [_Shepherdia argentea_]. Mr. Culbertson
killed a buck, and we have sent men to bring it entire. The Beavers in
this lodge are not residents, but vagrant Beavers. The buck was brought
in; it is of the same kind as at Fort Union, having a longer tail, we
think, than the kind found East. Its horns were very small, but it is
skinned and in brine. We removed our camp about a hundred yards lower
down, but the place as regards wood is very bad. Provost and I went to
set traps for Beaver; he first cut two dry sticks eight or nine feet
long; we reached the river by passing through the tangled woods; he then
pulled off his breeches and waded about with a pole to find the depth of
the water, and having found a fit spot he dug away the mud in the shape
of a half circle, placed a bit of willow branch at the bottom and put
the trap on that. He had two small willow sticks in his mouth; he split
an end of one, dipped it in his horn of castoreum, or "medicine," as he
calls his stuff, and left on the end of it a good mass of it, which was
placed in front of the jaws of the trap next the shore; he then made the
chain of the trap secure, stuck in a few untrimmed branches on each
side, and there the business ended. The second one was arranged in the
same way, except that there was no bit of willow under it. Beavers when
caught in shallow water are often attacked by the Otter, and in doing
this the latter sometimes lose their own lives, as they are very
frequently caught in the other trap placed close by. Mr. Culbertson and
Bell returned without having shot, although we heard one report whilst
setting the traps. Elks are very numerous here, but the bushes crack and
make so much noise that they hear the hunters and fly before them. Bell
shot five Pigeons at once. Harris and Squires are both poorly, having
eaten too indulgently of Buffalo brains. We are going to move six or
seven hundred yards lower down, to spend the night in a more sheltered
place. I hope I may have a large Beaver to-morrow.
[Illustration: CAMP ON THE MISSOURI.
FROM A DRAWING BY ISAAC SPRAGUE.]
_Tuesday, 5th._ At daylight, after some discussion about Beaver lodges,
Harris, Bell, Provost, and I, with two men, went to the traps--nothing
caught. We now had the lodge demolished outwardly, namely, all the
sticks removed, under which was found a hole about two and a half feet
in diameter, through which Harris, Bell, and Moncrevier (who had
followed us) entered, but found nothing within, as the Beaver had gone
to the river. Harris saw it, and also the people at the boat. I secured
some large specimens of the cuttings used to build the lodge, and a
pocketful of the chips. Before Beavers fell the tree they long for, they
cut down all the small twigs and saplings around. The chips are cut
above and below, and then split off by the animal; the felled trees lay
about us in every direction. We left our camp at half-past five; I again
examined the lodge, which was not finished, though about six feet in
diameter. We saw a Pigeon Hawk giving chase to a Spotted Sandpiper on
the wing. When the Hawk was about to seize the little fellow it dove
under water and escaped. This was repeated five or six times; to my
great surprise and pleasure, the Hawk was obliged to relinquish the
prey. As the wind blew high, we landed to take breakfast, on a fine
beach, portions of which appeared as if paved by the hand of man. The
canoe men killed a very poor cow, which had been wounded, and so left
alone. The wind fell suddenly, and we proceeded on our route till noon,
when it rose, and we stopped again. Mr. Culbertson went hunting, and
returned having killed a young buck Elk. Dined, and walked after the
meat and skin, and took the measurements. Returning, saw two Elks driven
to the hills by Mr. Culbertson and Bell. Met Harris, and started a
monstrous buck Elk from its couch in a bunch of willows; shot at it
while running about eighty yards off, but it was not touched. Meantime
Provost had heard us from our dinner camp; loading his rifle he came
within ten paces, when his gun snapped. We yet hope to get this fine
animal. Harris found a Dove's nest with one young one, and an egg just
cracked by the bird inside; the nest was on the ground. Curious all this
at this late late season, and in a woody part of the country. Saw a
Bat.
_Wednesday, 6th._ Wind blowing harder. Ransacked the point and banks
both below and above, but saw only two Wolves; one a dark gray, the
largest I have yet seen. Harris shot a young of the Sharp-tailed Grouse;
Bell, three Pigeons; Provost went off to the second point below, about
four miles, after Elks; Sprague found another nest of Doves on the
ground, with very small young. The common Bluebird was seen, also a
Whip-poor-will and a Night-Hawk. Wind high and from the south.
_Thursday, 7th._ About eleven o'clock last night the wind shifted
_suddenly_ to northwest, and blew so violently that we all left the boat
in a hurry. Mrs. Culbertson, with her child in her arms, made for the
willows, and had a shelter for her babe in a few minutes. Our guns and
ammunition were brought on shore, as we were afraid of our boat sinking.
We returned on board after a while; but I could not sleep, the motion
making me very sea-sick; I went back to the shore and lay down after
mending our fire. It rained hard for about two hours; the sky then
became clear, and the wind wholly subsided, so I went again to the boat
and slept till eight o'clock. A second gale now arose; the sky grew
dark; we removed our boat to a more secure position, but I fear we are
here for another day. Bell shot a _Caprimulgus_,[36] so small that I
have no doubt it is the one found on the Rocky Mountains by Nuttall,
after whom I have named it. These birds are now travelling south. Mr.
Culbertson and I walked up the highest hills of the prairie, but saw
nothing. The river has suddenly risen two feet, the water rises now at
the rate of eight inches in two and a half hours, and the wind has
somewhat moderated. The little Whip-poor-will proves an old male, but it
is now in moult. Left our camp at five, and went down rapidly to an
island four miles below. Mr. Culbertson, Bell, Harris, and Provost went
off to look for Elks, but I fear fruitlessly, as I see no tracks, nor
do I find any of their beds. About ten o'clock Harris called me to hear
the notes of the new Whip-poor-will; we heard two at once, and the sound
was thus: "Oh-will, oh-will," repeated often and quickly, as in our
common species. The night was beautiful, but cold.
_Friday, 8th._ Cloudy and remarkably cold; the river has risen 61/2 feet
since yesterday, and the water is muddy and thick. Started early. The
effect of sudden rises in this river is wonderful upon the sand-bars,
which are no sooner covered by a foot or so of water than they at once
break up, causing very high waves to run, through which no small boat
could pass without imminent danger. The swells are felt for many feet as
if small waves at sea. Appearances of rain. The current very strong; but
we reached Fort Pierre at half-past five, and found all well.
_Saturday, 9th._ Rain all night. Breakfasted at the fort. Exchanged our
boat for a larger one. Orders found here obliged Mr. Culbertson to leave
us and go to the Platte River establishment, much to my regret.
_Sunday, 10th._ Very cloudy. Mr. Culbertson gave me a _parfleche_[37]
which had been presented to him by "L'Ours de Fer," the Sioux chief. It
is very curiously painted, and is a record of a victory of the Sioux
over their enemies, the Gros Ventres. Two rows of horses with Indians
dressed in full war rig are rushing onwards; small black marks
everywhere represent the horse tracks; round green marks are shields
thrown away by the enemy in their flight, and red spots on the horses,
like wafers, denote wounds.
_Monday, 11th._ Cloudy; the men at work fitting up our new boat. Rained
nearly all day, and the wind shifted to every point of the compass.
Nothing done.
_Tuesday, 12th._ Partially clear this morning early, but rained by ten
o'clock. Nothing done.
_Wednesday, 13th._ Rainy again. Many birds were seen moving southwest.
Our boat is getting into travelling shape. I did several drawings of
objects in and about the fort.
_Thursday, 14th._ Cloudy and threatening. Mr. Laidlow making ready to
leave for Fort Union, and ourselves for our trip down the river. Mr.
Laidlow left at half-past eleven, and we started at two this afternoon;
landed at the farm belonging to the fort, and procured a few potatoes,
some corn, and a pig.
_Friday, 15th._ A foggy morning. Reached Fort George. Mr. Illingsworth
left at half-past ten. Wind ahead, and we were obliged to stop on this
account at two. Fresh signs of both Indians and Buffaloes, but nothing
killed.
_Saturday, 16th._ Windy till near daylight. Started early; passed
Ebbett's new island. Bell heard Parrakeets. The day was perfectly calm.
Found _Arvicola pennsylvanica_. Landed at the Great Bend for
Black-tailed Deer and wood. Have seen nothing worthy our attention.
Squires put up a board at our old camp the "Six Trees," which I hope to
see again. The Deer are lying down, and we shall not go out to hunt
again till near sunset. The note of the Meadow Lark here is now unheard.
I saw fully two hundred flying due south. Collected a good deal of the
Yucca plant.
_Sunday, 17th._ We had a hard gale last night with rain for about an
hour. This morning was beautiful; we started early, but only ran for two
hours, when we were forced to stop by the wind, which blew a gale.
Provost saw fresh signs of Indians, and we were told that there were a
few lodges at the bottom of the Bend, about two miles below us. The wind
is north and quite cold, and the contrast between to-day and yesterday
is great. Went shooting, and killed three Sharp-tailed Grouse. Left our
camp about three o'clock as the wind abated. Saw ten or twelve
Antelopes on the prairie where the Grouse were. We camped about a mile
from the spot where we landed in May last, at the end of the Great Bend.
The evening calm and beautiful.
_Monday, 18th._ The weather cloudy and somewhat windy. Started early;
saw a Fish Hawk, two Gulls, two White-headed Eagles and abundance of
Golden Plovers. The Sharp-tailed Grouse feeds on rose-berries and the
seeds of the wild sunflower and grasshoppers. Stopped at twenty minutes
past nine, the wind was so high, and warmed some coffee. Many dead
Buffaloes are in the ravines and on the prairies. Harris, Bell, and
Sprague went hunting, but had no show with such a wind. Sprague outlined
a curious hill. The wind finally shifted, and then lulled down. Saw
Say's Flycatcher, with a Grosbeak. Saw two of the common Titlark. Left
again at two, with a better prospect. Landed at sunset on the west side.
Signs of Indians. Wolves howling, and found one dead on the shore, but
too far gone to be skinned; I was sorry, as it was a beautiful gray one.
These animals feed on wild plums in great quantities. Tried to shoot
some Doves for my Fox and Badger, but without success. Pea-vines very
scarce.
_Tuesday, 19th._ Dark and drizzly. Did not start until six. Reached
Cedar Island, and landed for wood to use on the boat. Bell went off
hunting. Wind north. Found no fit trees and left. Passed the burning
cliffs and got on a bar. The weather fine, and wind behind us. Wolves
will even eat the frogs found along the shores of this river. Saw five,
all gray. At three o'clock we were obliged to stop on account of the
wind, under a poor point. No game.
_Wednesday, 20th._ Wind very high. Tracks of Wild Cats along the shore.
The motion of the boat is so great it makes me sea-sick. Sprague saw a
Sharp-tailed Grouse. We left at half-past twelve. Saw immense numbers
of Pin-tailed Ducks, but could not get near them. Stopped on an island
to procure pea-vines for my young Deer, and found plenty. Our camp of
last night was only two miles and a half below White River. Ran on a bar
and were delayed nearly half an hour. Shot two Blue-winged Teal. Camped
opposite Bijou's Hill.