after four o'clock, and before eight had left the landing of the fort,
and were fairly under way for the prairies. Our equipment was much the
same as before, except that we had two carts this time. Mr. C. drove
Harris, Bell, and myself, and the others rode on the carts and led the
hunting horses, or runners, as they are called here. I observed a Rabbit
running across the road, and saw some flowers different from any I had
ever seen. After we had crossed a bottom prairie, we ascended between
the high and rough ravines until we were on the rolling grounds of the
plains. The fort showed well from this point, and we also saw a good
number of Antelopes, and some young ones. These small things run even
faster than the old ones. As we neared the Fox River some one espied
four Buffaloes, and Mr. C., taking the telescope, showed them to me,
lying on the ground. Our heads and carts were soon turned towards them,
and we travelled within half a mile of them, concealed by a ridge or
hill which separated them from us. The wind was favorable, and we moved
on slowly round the hill, the hunters being now mounted. Harris and Bell
had their hats on, but Owen and Mr. Culbertson had their heads bound
with handkerchiefs. With the rest of the party I crawled on the ridge,
and saw the bulls running away, but in a direction favorable for us to
see the chase. On the word of command the horses were let loose, and
away went the hunters, who soon were seen to gain on the game; two bulls
ran together and Mr. C. and Bell followed after them, and presently one
after another of the hunters followed them. Mr. C. shot first, and his
bull stopped at the fire, walked towards where I was, and halted about
sixty yards from me. His nose was within a few inches of the ground; the
blood poured from his mouth, nose, and side, his tail hung down, but his
legs looked as firm as ever, but in less than two minutes the poor beast
fell on his side, and lay quite dead. Bell and Mr. Culbertson went after
the second. Harris took the third, and Squires the fourth. Bell's shot
took effect in the buttock, and Mr. Culbertson shot, placing his ball a
few inches above or below Bell's; after this Mr. Culbertson ran no more.
At this moment Squires's horse threw him over his head, fully ten feet;
he fell on his powder-horn and was severely bruised; he cried to Harris
to catch his horse, and was on his legs at once, but felt sick for a few
minutes. Harris, who was as cool as a cucumber, neared his bull, shot it
through the lungs, and it fell dead on the spot. Bell was now seen in
full pursuit of his game, and Harris joined Squires, and followed the
fourth, which, however, was soon out of my sight. I saw Bell shooting
two or three times, and I heard the firing of Squires and perhaps
Harris, but the weather was hot, and being afraid of injuring their
horses, they let the fourth bull make his escape. Bell's bull fell on
his knees, got up again, and rushed on Bell, and was shot again. The
animal stood a minute with his tail partially elevated, and then fell
dead; through some mishap Bell had no knife with him, so did not bring
the tongue, as is customary. Mr. Culbertson walked towards the first
bull and I joined him. It was a fine animal about seven years old;
Harris's and Bell's were younger. The first was fat, and was soon
skinned and cut up for meat. Mr. Culbertson insisted on calling it my
bull, so I cut off the brush of the tail and placed it in my hat-band.
We then walked towards Harris, who was seated on his bull, and the same
ceremony took place, and while they were cutting the animal up for meat,
Bell, who said he thought his bull was about three quarters of a mile
distant, went off with me to see it; we walked at least a mile and a
half, and at last came to it. It was a poor one, and the tongue and tail
were all we took away, and we rejoined the party, who had already
started the cart with Mr. Pike, who was told to fall to the rear, and
reach the fort before sundown; this he could do readily, as we were not
more than six miles distant. Mr. Culbertson broke open the head of "my"
bull, and ate part of the brains raw, and yet warm, and so did many of
the others, even Squires. The very sight of this turned my stomach, but
I am told that were I to hunt Buffalo one year, I should like it "even
better than dog meat." Mr. Pike did not reach the fort till the next
morning about ten, I will say _en passant_. We continued our route,
passing over the same road on which we had come, and about midway
between the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers. We saw more Antelopes, but
not one Wolf; these rascals are never abundant where game is scarce, but
where game is, there too are the Wolves. When we had travelled about ten
miles further we saw seven Buffaloes grazing on a hill, but as the sun
was about one hour high, we drove to one side of the road where there
was a pond of water, and there stopped for the night; while the hunters
were soon mounted, and with Squires they went off, leaving the men to
arrange the camp. I crossed the pond, and having ascended the opposite
bank, saw the bulls grazing as leisurely as usual. The hunters near
them, they started down the hill, and the chase immediately began. One
broke from the rest and was followed by Mr. C. who shot it, and then
abandoned the hunt, his horse being much fatigued. I now counted ten
shots, but all was out of my sight, and I seated myself near a Fox hole,
longing for him. The hunters returned in time; Bell and Harris had
killed one, but Squires had no luck, owing to his being unable to
continue the chase on account of the injury he had received from his
fall. We had a good supper, having brought abundance of eatables and
drinkables. The tent was pitched; I put up my mosquito-bar under the
wagon, and there slept very soundly till sunrise. Harris and Bell wedged
together under another bar, Mr. C. went into the tent, and Squires, who
is tough and likes to rough it with the hunters, slept on a Buffalo hide
somewhere with Moncrevier, one of the most skilful of the hunters. The
horses were all hoppled and turned to grass; they, however, went off too
far, and had to be sent after, but I heard nothing of all this. As there
is no wood on the prairies proper, our fire was made of Buffalo dung,
which is so abundant that one meets these deposits at every few feet and
in all directions.
_July 21, Friday._ We were up at sunrise, and had our coffee, after
which Lafleur a mulatto, Harris, and Bell went off after Antelopes, for
we cared no more about bulls; where the cows are, we cannot tell. Cows
run faster than bulls, yearlings faster than cows, and calves faster
than any of these. Squires felt sore, and his side was very black, so we
took our guns and went after Black-breasted Lark Buntings, of which we
saw many, but could not near them. I found a nest of them, however, with
five eggs. The nest is planted in the ground, deep enough to sink the
edges of it. It is formed of dried fine grasses and roots, without any
lining of hair or wool. By and by we saw Harris sitting on a high hill
about one mile off, and joined him; he said the bulls they had killed
last evening were close by, and I offered to go and see the bones, for I
expected that the Wolves had devoured it during the night. We travelled
on, and Squires returned to the camp. After about two miles of walking
against a delightful strong breeze, we reached the animals; Ravens or
Buzzards had worked at the eyes, but only one Wolf, apparently, had been
there. They were bloated, and smelt quite unpleasant. We returned to the
camp and saw a Wolf cross our path, and an Antelope looking at us. We
determined to stop and try to bring him to us; I lay on my back and
threw my legs up, kicking first one and then the other foot, and sure
enough the Antelope walked towards us, slowly and carefully, however. In
about twenty minutes he had come two or three hundred yards; he was a
superb male, and I looked at him for some minutes; when about sixty
yards off I could see his eyes, and being loaded with buck-shot pulled
the trigger without rising from my awkward position. Off he went; Harris
fired, but he only ran the faster for some hundred yards, when he
turned, looked at us again, and was off. When we reached camp we found
Bell there; he had shot three times at Antelopes without killing;
Lafleur had also returned, and had broken the foreleg of one, but an
Antelope can run fast enough with three legs, and he saw no more of it.
We now broke camp, arranged the horses and turned our heads towards the
Missouri, and in four and three-quarter hours reached the landing. On
entering the wood we again broke branches of service-berries, and
carried a great quantity over the river. I much enjoyed the trip; we had
our supper, and soon to bed in our hot room, where Sprague says the
thermometer has been at 99 deg. most of the day. I noticed it was warm when
walking. I must not forget to notice some things which happened on our
return. First, as we came near Fox River, we thought of the horns of
our bulls, and Mr. Culbertson, who knows the country like a book, drove
us first to Bell's, who knocked the horns off, then to Harris's, which
was served in the same manner; this bull had been eaten entirely except
the head, and a good portion of mine had been devoured also; it lay
immediately under "Audubon's Bluff" (the name Mr. Culbertson gave the
ridge on which I stood to see the chase), and we could see it when
nearly a mile distant. Bell's horns were the handsomest and largest,
mine next best, and Harris's the smallest, but we are all contented. Mr.
Culbertson tells me that Harris and Bell have done wonders, for persons
who have never shot at Buffaloes from on horseback. Harris had a fall
too, during his second chase, and was bruised in the manner of Squires,
but not so badly. I have but little doubt that Squires killed his bull,
as he says he shot it three times, and Mr. Culbertson's must have died
also. What a terrible destruction of life, as it were for nothing, or
next to it, as the tongues only were brought in, and the flesh of these
fine animals was left to beasts and birds of prey, or to rot on the
spots where they fell. The prairies are literally _covered_ with the
skulls of the victims, and the roads the Buffalo make in crossing the
prairies have all the appearance of heavy wagon tracks. We saw young
Golden Eagles, Ravens, and Buzzards. I found the Short-billed Marsh Wren
quite abundant, and in such localities as it is found eastward. The
Black-breasted Prairie-bunting flies much like a Lark, hovering while
singing, and sweeping round and round, over and above its female while
she sits on the eggs on the prairie below. I saw only one Gadwall Duck;
these birds are found in abundance on the plains where water and rushes
are to be found. Alas! alas! eighteen Assiniboins have reached the fort
this evening in two groups; they are better-looking than those
previously seen by us.
_July 22, Saturday._ Thermometer 99 deg.-102 deg.. This day has been the hottest
of the season, and we all felt the influence of this densely oppressive
atmosphere, not a breath of air stirring. Immediately after breakfast
Provost and Lafleur went across the river in search of Antelopes, and we
remained looking at the Indians, all Assiniboins, and very dirty. When
and where Mr. Catlin saw these Indians as he has represented them,
dressed in magnificent attire, with all sorts of extravagant
accoutrements, is more than I can divine, or Mr. Culbertson tell me. The
evening was so hot and sultry that Mr. C. and I went into the river,
which is now very low, and remained in the water over an hour. A dozen
catfish were caught in the main channel, and we have had a good supper
from part of them. Finding the weather so warm I have had my bed brought
out on the gallery below, and so has Squires. The Indians are, as usual,
shut _out_ of the fort, all the horses, young Buffaloes, etc., shut
_in_; and much refreshed by my bath, I say God bless you, and
good-night.
_July 23, Sunday._ Thermometer 84 deg.. I had a very pleasant night, and no
mosquitoes, as the breeze rose a little before I lay down; and I
anticipated a heavy thunder storm, but we had only a few drops of rain.
About one o'clock Harris was called to see one of the Indians, who was
bleeding at the nose profusely, and I too went to see the poor devil. He
had bled quite enough, and Harris stopped his nostrils with cotton, put
cold water on his neck and head--God knows when they had felt it
before--and the bleeding stopped. These dirty fellows had made a large
fire between the walls of the fort, but outside the inner gates, and it
was a wonder that the whole establishment was not destroyed by fire.
Before sunrise they were pounding at the gate to be allowed to enter,
but, of course, this was not permitted. When the sun had fairly risen,
some one came and told me the hill-tops were covered with Indians,
probably Blackfeet. I walked to the back gate, and the number had
dwindled, or the account been greatly exaggerated, for there seemed only
fifty or sixty, and when, later, they were counted, there were found to
be exactly seventy. They remained a long time on the hill, and sent a
youth to ask for whiskey. But whiskey there is none for them, and very
little for any one. By and by they came down the hill leading four
horses, and armed principally with bows and arrows, spears, tomahawks,
and a few guns. They have proved to be a party of Crees from the British
dominions on the Saskatchewan River, and have been fifteen days in
travelling here. They had seen few Buffaloes, and were hungry and
thirsty enough. They assured Mr. Culbertson that the Hudson's Bay
Company supplied them all with abundance of spirituous liquors, and as
the white traders on the Missouri had none for them, they would
hereafter travel with the English. Now ought not this subject to be
brought before the press in our country and forwarded to England? If our
Congress will not allow our traders to sell whiskey or rum to the
Indians, why should not the British follow the same rule? Surely the
British, who are so anxious about the emancipation of the blacks, might
as well take care of the souls and bodies of the redskins. After a long
talk and smoking of pipes, tobacco, flints, powder, gun-screws and
vermilion were placed before their great chief (who is tattooed and has
a most rascally look), who examined everything minutely, counting over
the packets of vermilion; more tobacco was added, a file, and a piece of
white cotton with which to adorn his head; then he walked off, followed
by his son, and the whole posse left the fort. They passed by the
garden, pulled up a few squash vines and some turnips, and tore down a
few of the pickets on their way elsewhere. We all turned to, and picked
a quantity of peas, which with a fine roast pig, made us a capital
dinner. After this, seeing the Assiniboins loitering about the fort, we
had some tobacco put up as a target, and many arrows were sent to enter
the prize, but I never saw Indians--usually so skilful with their
bows--shoot worse in my life. Presently some one cried there were
Buffaloes on the hill, and going to see we found that four bulls were on
the highest ridge standing still. The horses being got in the yard, the
guns were gathered, saddles placed, and the riders mounted, Mr. C.,
Harris, and Bell; Squires declined going, not having recovered from his
fall, Mr. C. led his followers round the hills by the ravines, and
approached the bulls quite near, when the affrighted cattle ran down the
hills and over the broken grounds, out of our sight, followed by the
hunters. When I see game chased by Mr. Culbertson, I feel confident of
its being killed, and in less than one hour he had killed two bulls,
Harris and Bell each one. Thus these poor animals which two hours before
were tranquilly feeding are now dead; short work this. Harris and Bell
remained on the hills to watch the Wolves, and carts being ordered, Mr.
C. and I went off on horseback to the second one he had killed. We found
it entire, and I began to operate upon it at once; after making what
measurements and investigations I desired, I saved the head, the tail,
and a large piece of the silky skin from the rump. The meat of three of
the bulls was brought to the fort, the fourth was left to rot on the
ground. Mr. C. cut his finger severely, but paid no attention to that;
I, however, tore a strip off my shirt and bound it up for him. It is so
hot I am going to sleep on the gallery again; the thermometer this
evening is 89 deg..
_July 24, Monday._ I had a fine sleep last night, and this morning early
a slight sprinkling of rain somewhat refreshed the earth. After
breakfast we talked of going to see if Mr. Culbertson's bull had been
injured by the Wolves. Mr. C., Harris, and I went off to the spot by a
roundabout way, and when we reached the animal it was somewhat swollen,
but untouched, but we made up our minds to have it weighed, _coute qui
coute_. Harris proposed to remain and watch it, looking for Hares
meantime, but saw none. The Wolves must be migratory at this season, or
so starved out that they have gone elsewhere, as we now see but few. We
returned first to the fort, and mustered three men and Bell, for Sprague
would not go, being busy drawing a plant, and finding the heat almost
insupportable. We carried all the necessary implements, and found Harris
quite ready to drink some claret and water which we took for him. To cut
up so large a bull, and one now with so dreadful an odor, was no joke;
but with the will follows the success, and in about one hour the poor
beast had been measured and weighed, and we were once more _en route_
for the fort. This bull measured as follows: from end of nose to root of
tail, 131 inches; height at shoulder, 67 inches; at rump, 57 inches;
tail vertebrae, 151/2 inches, hair in length beyond it 11 inches. We
weighed the whole animal by cutting it in parts and then by addition
found that this Buffalo, which was an old bull, weighed 1777 lbs.
avoirdupois. The flesh was all tainted, and was therefore left for the
beasts of prey. Our road was over high hills, and presented to our
searching eyes a great extent of broken ground, and here and there
groups of Buffaloes grazing. This afternoon we are going to bring in the
skeleton of Mr. Culbertson's second bull. I lost the head of my first
bull because I forgot to tell Mrs. Culbertson that I wished to save it,
and the princess had its skull broken open to enjoy its brains.
Handsome, and really courteous and refined in many ways, I cannot
reconcile to myself the fact that she partakes of raw animal food with
such evident relish. Before our departure, in came six half-breeds,
belonging, or attached to Fort Mortimer; and understanding that they
were first-rate hunters, I offered them ten dollars in goods for each
Bighorn up to eight or ten in number. They have promised to go
to-morrow, but, alas! the half-breeds are so uncertain I cannot tell
whether they will move a step or not. Mrs. Culbertson, who has great
pride in her pure Indian blood, told me with scorn that "all such
no-color fellows are lazy." We were delayed in starting by a very heavy
gale of wind and hard rain, which cooled the weather considerably; but
we finally got off in the wagon, the cart with three mules following, to
bring in the skeleton of the Buffalo which Mr. Culbertson had killed;
but we were defeated, for some Wolves had been to it, dragged it about
twenty-five feet, and gnawed the ends of the ribs and the backbone. The
head of Harris's bull was brought in, but it was smaller; the horns
alone were pretty good, and they were given to Sprague. On our return
Mrs. Culbertson was good enough to give me six young Mallards, which she
had caught by swimming after them in the Missouri; she is a most expert
and graceful swimmer, besides being capable of remaining under water a
long time; all the Blackfoot Indians excel in swimming and take great
pride in the accomplishment. We found three of the Assiniboins had
remained, one of whom wanted to carry off a squaw, and probably a couple
of horses too. He strutted about the fort in such a manner that we
watched him pretty closely. Mr. Culbertson took his gun, and a
six-barrelled pistol in his pocket; I, my double-barrelled gun, and we
stood at the back gate. The fellow had a spear made of a cut-and-thrust
sword, planted in a good stick covered with red cloth, and this he never
put down at any time; but no more, indeed, do any Indians, who carry all
their goods and chattels forever about their persons. The three
gentlemen, however, went off about dusk, and took the road to Fort
Mortimer, where six half-breeds from the Northeast brought to Fort
Mortimer eleven head of cattle, and came to pay a visit to their friends
here. All these men know Provost, and have inquired for him. I feel
somewhat uneasy about Provost and La Fleur, who have now been gone four
full days. The prairie is wet and damp, so I must sleep indoors. The
bull we cut up was not a fat one; I think in good condition it would
have weighed 2000 lbs.
_July 25, Tuesday._ We were all rather lazy this morning, but about
dinner-time Owen and his man arrived, and told us they had reached Mr.
Kipp and his boat at the crossings within about half a mile of Fort
Alexander; that his men were all broken down with drawing the cordelle
through mud and water, and that they had lost a white horse, which,
however, Owen saw on his way, and on the morning of his start from this
fort. About the same time he shot a large Porcupine, and killed four
bulls and one cow to feed upon, as well as three rattlesnakes. They saw
a large number of Buffalo cows, and we are going after them to-morrow
morning bright and early. About two hours later Provost and La Fleur,
about whom I had felt some uneasiness, came to the landing, and brought
the heads and skins attached to two female Antelopes. Both had been
killed by one shot from La Fleur, and his ball broke the leg of a third.
Provost was made quite sick by the salt water he had drunk; he killed
one doe, on which they fed as well as on the flesh of the "Cabris."
Whilst following the Mauvaises Terres (broken lands), they saw about
twenty Bighorns, and had not the horse on which Provost rode been
frightened at the sight of a monstrous buck of these animals, he would
have shot it down within twenty yards. They saw from fifteen to twenty
Buffalo cows, and we hope some of the hunters will come up with them
to-morrow. I have been drawing the head of one of these beautiful female
Antelopes; but their horns puzzle me, and all of us; they seem to me as
if they were _new_ horns, soft and short; time, however, will prove
whether they shed them or not. Our preparations are already made for
preserving the skins of the Antelopes, and Sprague is making an outline
which I hope will be finished before the muscles of the head begin to
soften. Not a word from the six hunters who promised to go after
Bighorns on the Yellowstone.
_July 26, Wednesday._ We were all on foot before daybreak and had our
breakfast by an early hour, and left on our trip for Buffalo cows. The
wagon was sent across by hauling it through the east channel, which is
now quite low, and across the sand-bars, which now reach seven-eighths
of the distance across the river. We crossed in the skiff, and walked to
the ferry-boat--I barefooted, as well as Mr. Culbertson; others wore
boots or moccasins, but my feet have been tender of late, and this is
the best cure. Whilst looking about for sticks to support our mosquito
bars, I saw a Rabbit standing before me, within a few steps, but I was
loaded with balls, and should have torn the poor thing so badly that it
would have been useless as a specimen, so let it live. We left the ferry
before six, and went on as usual. We saw two Antelopes on entering the
bottom prairie, but they had the wind of us, and scampered off to the
hills. We saw two Grouse, one of which Bell killed, and we found it very
good this evening for our supper. Twelve bulls were seen, but we paid no
attention to them. We saw a fine large Hawk, apparently the size of a
Red-tailed Hawk, but with the whole head white. It had alighted on a
clay hill or bank, but, on being approached, flew off to another, was
pursued and again flew away, so that we could not procure it, but I have
no doubt that it is a species not yet described. We now crossed
Blackfoot River, and saw great numbers of Antelopes. Their play and
tricks are curious; I watched many of the groups a long time, and will
not soon forget them. At last, seeing we should have no meat for supper,
and being a party of nine, it was determined that the first animal seen
should be run down and killed. We soon saw a bull, and all agreed to
give every chance possible to Squires. Mr. C., Owen, and Squires
started, and Harris followed without a gun, to see the chase. The bull
was wounded twice by Squires, but no blood came from the mouth, and now
all three shot at it, but the bull was not apparently hurt seriously; he
became more and more furious, and began charging upon them.
Unfortunately, Squires ran between the bull and a ravine quite close to
the animal, and it suddenly turned on him; his horse became frightened
and jumped into the ravine, the bull followed, and now Squires lost his
balance; however, he threw his gun down, and fortunately clung to the
mane of his horse and recovered his seat. The horse got away and saved
his life, for, from what Mr. C. told me, had he fallen, the bull would
have killed him in a few minutes, and no assistance could be afforded
him, as Mr. C. and Owen had, at that moment, empty guns. Squires told us
all; he had never been so bewildered and terrified before. The bull kept
on running, and was shot at perhaps twenty times, for when he fell he
had _twelve balls_ in his side, and had been shot twice in the head.
Another bull was now seen close by us, and Owen killed it after four
shots. Whilst we were cutting up this one, La Fleur and some one else
went to the other, which was found to be very poor, and, at this season
smelling very rank and disagreeable. A few of the best pieces were cut
away, and, as usual, the hunters ate the liver and fat quite raw, like
Wolves, and we were now on the move again. Presently we saw seven
animals coming towards us, and with the glass discovered there were six
bulls and one cow. The hunters mounted in quick time, and away after the
cow, which Owen killed very soon. To my surprise the bulls did not leave
her, but stood about one hundred yards from the hunters, who were
cutting her in pieces; the best parts were taken for dried meat. Had we
not been so many, the bulls would, in all probability, have charged upon
the butchers, but after a time they went off at a slow canter. At this
moment Harris and I were going towards the party thus engaged, when a
Swift Fox started from a hole under the feet of Harris' horse. I was
loaded with balls, and he also; he gave chase and gained upon the
beautiful animal with remarkable quickness. Bell saw this, and joined
Harris, whilst I walked towards the butchering party. The Fox was
overtaken by Harris, who took aim at it several times, but could not get
sight on him, and the little fellow doubled and cut about in such a
manner that it escaped into a ravine, and was seen no more. Now who will
tell me that no animal can compete with this Fox in speed, when Harris,
mounted on an Indian horse, overtook it in a few minutes? We were now in
sight of a large band of cows and bulls, but the sun was low, and we
left them to make our way to the camping-place, which we reached just
before the setting of the sun. We found plenty of water, and a
delightful spot, where we were all soon at work unsaddling our horses
and mules, bringing wood for fires, and picking service-berries, which
we found in great quantities and very good. We were thirty miles from
Fort Union, close to the three Mamelles, but must have travelled near
fifty, searching for and running down the game. All slept well, some
outside and others inside the tent, after our good supper. We had a
clear, bright day, with the wind from the westward.