around us, and after our early breakfast, Harris, with La Fleur and Mr.
Culbertson, walked to the top of the highest of the three Mamelles; Bell
went to skinning the birds shot yesterday,[34] among which was a large
Titmouse of the Eastern States, while I walked off a short distance, and
made a sketch of the camp and the three Mamelles. I hope to see a fair
picture from this, painted by Victor, this next winter, God willing.
During the night the bulls were heard bellowing, and the Wolves howling,
all around us. Bell had seen evidences of Grizzly Bears close by, but we
saw none of the animals. An Antelope was heard snorting early this
morning, and seen for a while, but La Fleur could not get it. The
snorting of the Antelope is more like a whistling, sneezing sound, than
like the long, clear snorting of our common Deer, and it is also very
frequently repeated, say every few minutes, when in sight of an object
of which the animal does not yet know the nature; for the moment it is
assured of danger, it bounds three or four times like a sheep, and then
either trots off or gallops like a horse. On the return of the gentlemen
from the eminence, from which they had seen nothing but a Hawk, and
heard the notes of the Rock Wren, the horses were gathered, and
preparations made to go in search of cows. I took my gun and walked off
ahead, and on ascending the first hill saw an Antelope, which, at first
sight, I thought was an Indian. It stood still, gazing at me about five
hundred yards off; I never stirred, and presently it walked towards me;
I lay down and lowered my rifle; the animal could not now see my body; I
showed it my feet a few times, at intervals. Presently I saw it coming
full trot towards me; I cocked my gun, loaded with buck-shot in one
barrel and ball in the other. He came within thirty yards of me and
stopped suddenly, then turned broadside towards me. I could see his very
eyes, his beautiful form, and his fine horns, for it was a buck. I
pulled one trigger--it snapped, the animal moved not; I pulled the
other, snapped again, and away the Antelope bounded, and ran swiftly
from me. I put on fresh caps, and saw it stop after going a few hundred
yards, and presently it came towards me again, but not within one
hundred and fifty yards, when seeing that it would not come nearer I
pulled the trigger with the ball; off it went, and so did the Antelope,
which this time went quite out of my sight. I returned to camp and found
all ready for a move. Owen went up a hill to reconnoitre for Antelopes
and cows; seeing one of the former he crept after it. Bell followed, and
at this moment a Hare leaped from the path before us, and stopped within
twenty paces. Harris was not loaded with shot, and I only with
buck-shot; however, I fired and killed it; it proved to be a large
female, and after measuring, we skinned it, and I put on a label
"Townsend's Hare, killed a few miles from the three Mamelles, July 27,
1843." After travelling for a good while, Owen, who kept ahead of us,
made signs from the top of a high hill that Buffaloes were in sight.
This signal is made by walking the rider's horse backwards and forwards
several times. We hurried on towards him, and when we reached the place,
he pointed to the spot where he had seen them, and said they were
travelling fast, being a band of both cows and bulls. The hunters were
mounted at once, and on account of Squires' soreness I begged him not to
run; so he drove me in the wagon as fast as possible over hills, through
plains and ravines of all descriptions, at a pace beyond belief. From
time to time we saw the hunters, and once or twice the Buffaloes, which
were going towards the fort. At last we reached an eminence from which
we saw both the game and the hunters approaching the cattle,
preparatory to beginning the chase. It seems there is no etiquette among
Buffalo hunters, and this proved a great disappointment to friend
Harris, who was as anxious to kill a cow, as he had been to kill a bull.
Off went the whole group, but the country was not as advantageous to the
pursuers, as to the pursued. The cows separated from the bulls, the
latter making their way towards us, and six of them passed within one
hundred yards of where I stood; we let them pass, knowing well how
savage they are at these times, and turned our eyes again to the
hunters. I saw Mr. C. pursuing one cow, Owen another, and Bell a third.
Owen shot one and mortally wounded it; it walked up on a hill and stood
there for some minutes before falling. Owen killed a second close by the
one Mr. C. had now killed, Bell's dropped dead in quite another
direction, nearly one mile off. Two bulls we saw coming directly towards
us, so La Fleur and I went under cover of the hill to await their
approach, and they came within sixty yards of us. I gave La Fleur the
choice of shooting first, as he had a rifle; he shot and missed; they
turned and ran in an opposite direction, so that I, who had gone some
little distance beyond La Fleur, had no chance, and I was sorry enough
for my politeness. Owen had shot a third cow, which went part way up a
hill, fell, and kicked violently; she, however, rose and again fell, and
kept kicking with all her legs in the air. Squires now drove to her, and
I walked, followed by Moncrevier, a hunter; seeing Mr. C. and Harris on
the bottom below we made signs for them to come up, and they fortunately
did, and by galloping to Squires probably saved that young man from more
danger; for though I cried to him at the top of my voice, the wind
prevented him from hearing me; he now stopped, however, not far from a
badly broken piece of ground over which had he driven at his usual
speed, which I doubt not he would have attempted, some accident must
have befallen him. Harris and Mr. C. rode up to the cow, which expired
at that moment. The cow Mr. C. had killed was much the largest, and we
left a cart and two men to cut up this, and the first two Owen had
killed, and went to the place where the first lay, to have it skinned
for me. Bell joined us soon, bringing a tongue with him, and he
immediately began operations on the cow, which proved a fine one, and I
have the measurements as follows: "Buffalo Cow, killed by Mr. Alexander
Culbertson, July 27, 1843. Nose to root of tail, 96 inches. Height at
shoulder, 60; at rump, 55-1/2. Length of tail vertebrae, 13; to end of
hair, 25; from brisket to bottom of feet, 21-1/2; nose to anterior
canthus, 10-1/2; between horns at root, 11-3/8; between tops of ditto,
17-1/8; between nostrils, 2-1/4; length of ditto, 2-1/2; height of nose,
3-1/8; nose to opening of ear, 20; ear from opening to tip, 5; longest
hair on head, 14 inches; from angle of mouth to end of under lip,
3-1/2." Whilst we were at this, Owen and Pike were hacking at their cow.
After awhile all was ready for departure, and we made for the "coupe" at
two o'clock, and expected to have found water to enable us to water our
horses, for we had yet some gallons of the Missouri water for our own
use. We found the road to the "coupe," which was seen for many, many
miles. The same general appearance of country shows throughout the whole
of these dreary prairies; up one hill and down on the other side, then
across a plain with ravines of more or less depth. About two miles west
of the "coupe," Owen and others went in search of water, but in vain;
and we have had to cross the "coupe" and travel fully two miles east of
it, when we came to a mere puddle, sufficient however, for the night,
and we stopped. The carts with the meat, and our effects, arrived after
a while; the meat was spread on the grass, the horses and mules hoppled
and let go, to drink and feed. All hands collected Buffalo dung for
fuel, for not a bush was in sight, and we soon had a large fire. In the
winter season this prairie fuel is too wet to burn, and oftentimes the
hunters have to eat their meat raw, or go without their supper. Ours was
cooked however; I made mine chiefly from the liver, as did Harris;
others ate boiled or roasted meat as they preferred. The tent was
pitched, and I made a bed for Mr. C. and myself, and guns, etc., were
all under cover; the evening was cool, the wind fresh, and no
mosquitoes. We had seen plenty of Antelopes; I shot at one twenty yards
from the wagon with small shot. Harris killed a Wolf, but we have seen
very few, and now I will wish you all good-night; God bless you!
[Illustration: CAMP AT THE THREE MAMELLES.
FROM A DRAWING BY AUDUBON, HITHERTO UNPUBLISHED.]
_July 28, Friday._ This morning was cold enough for a frost, but we all
slept soundly until daylight, and about half-past three we were called
for breakfast. The horses had all gone but four, and, as usual, Owen was
despatched for them. The horses were brought back, our coffee swallowed,
and we were off, Mr. C. and I, in the wagon. We saw few Antelopes, no
Buffalo, and reached the ferry opposite the fort at half-past seven. We
found all well, and about eleven Assiniboins, all young men, headed by
the son of a great chief called "Le mangeur d'hommes" (the man-eater).
The poor wretched Indian whom Harris had worked over, died yesterday
morning, and was buried at once. I had actually felt chilly riding in
the wagon, and much enjoyed a breakfast Mrs. Culbertson had kindly
provided for me. We had passed over some very rough roads, and at
breakneck speed, but I did not feel stiff as I expected, though somewhat
sore, and a good night's rest is all I need. This afternoon the cow's
skin and head, and the Hare arrived, and have been preserved. A
half-breed well known to Provost has been here to make a bargain with me
about Bighorns, Grizzly Bear, etc., and will see what he and his two
sons can do; but I have little or no confidence in these gentry. I was
told this afternoon that at Mouse River, about two hundred miles north
of this, there are eight hundred carts in one gang, and four hundred in
another, with an adequate number of half-breeds and Indians, killing
Buffalo and drying their meat for winter provisions, and that the
animals are there in millions. When Buffalo bulls are shot from a
distance of sixty or seventy yards, they rarely charge on the hunter,
and Mr. Culbertson has killed as many as nine bulls from the same spot,
when unseen by these terrible beasts. Beavers, when shot swimming, and
killed, sink at once to the bottom, but their bodies rise again in from
twenty to thirty minutes. Hunters, who frequently shoot and kill them by
moonlight, return in the morning from their camping-places, and find
them on the margins of the shores where they had shot. Otters do the
same, but remain under water for an hour or more.
_July 29, Saturday._ Cool and pleasant. About one hour after daylight
Harris, Bell, and two others, crossed the river, and went in search of
Rabbits, but all returned without success. Harris, after breakfast, went
off on this side, saw none, but killed a young Raven. During the course
of the forenoon he and Bell went off again, and brought home an old and
young of the Sharp-tailed Grouse. This afternoon they brought in a
Loggerhead Shrike and two Rock Wrens. Bell skinned all these. Sprague
made a handsome sketch of the five young Buffaloes belonging to the
fort. This evening Moncrevier and Owen went on the other side of the
river, but saw nothing. We collected berries of the dwarf cherries of
this part, and I bottled some service-berries to carry home.
_July 30, Sunday._ Weather cool and pleasant. After breakfast we
despatched La Fleur and Provost after Antelopes and Bighorns. We then
went off and had a battue for Rabbits, and although we were nine in
number, and all beat the rose bushes and willows for several hundred
yards, not one did we see, although their traces were apparent in
several places. We saw tracks of a young Grizzly Bear near the river
shore. After a good dinner of Buffalo meat, green peas, and a pudding,
Mr. C., Owen, Mr. Pike, and I went off to Fort Mortimer. We had an
arrival of five squaws, half-breeds, and a gentleman of the same order,
who came to see our fort and our ladies. The princess went out to meet
them covered with a fine shawl, and the visitors followed her to her own
room. These ladies spoke both the French and Cree languages. At Fort
Mortimer we found the hunters from the north, who had returned last
evening and told me they had seen nothing. I fear that all my former
opinions of the half-breeds are likely to be realized, and that they are
all more _au fait_ at telling lies, than anything else; and I expect now
that we shall have to make a regular turn-out ourselves, to kill both
Grizzly Bears and Bighorns. As we were riding along not far from this
fort, Mr. Culbertson fired off the gun given him by Harris, and it blew
off the stock, lock, and breech, and it was a wonder it did not kill
him, or me, as I was sitting by his side. After we had been at home
about one hour, we were all called out of a sudden by the news that the
_Horse Guards_ were coming, full gallop, driving the whole of their
charge before them. We saw the horses, and the cloud of dust that they
raised on the prairies, and presently, when the Guards reached the
gates, they told us that they had seen a party of Indians, which
occasioned their hurried return. It is now more than one hour since I
wrote this, and the Indians are now in sight, and we think they were
frightened by three or four squaws who had left the fort in search of
"pommes blanches." Sprague has collected a few seeds, but I intend to
have some time devoted to this purpose before we leave on our passage
downwards. This evening five Indians arrived, among whom is the brother
of the man who died a few days ago; he brought a horse, and an Elk skin,
which I bought, and he now considers himself a rich man. He reported
Buffaloes very near, and to-morrow morning the hunters will be after
them. When Buffaloes are about to lie down, they draw all their four
feet together slowly, and balancing the body for a moment, bend their
fore legs, and fall on their knees first, and the hind ones follow. In
young animals, some of which we have here, the effect produced on their
tender skin is directly seen, as callous round patches without hair are
found; after the animal is about one year old, these are seen no more. I
am told that Wolves have not been known to attack men and horses in
these parts, but they do attack mules and colts, always making choice of
the fattest. We scarcely see one now-a-days about the fort, and yet two
miles from here, at Fort Mortimer, Mr. Collins tells me it is impossible
to sleep, on account of their howlings at night. When Assiniboin Indians
lose a relative by death, they go and cry under the box which contains
the body, which is placed in a tree, cut their legs and different parts
of the body, and moan miserably for hours at a time. This performance
has been gone through with by the brother of the Indian who died here.
_July 31, Monday._ Weather rather warmer. Mr. Larpenteur went after
Rabbits, saw none, but found a horse, which was brought home this
afternoon. Mr. C., Harris, Bell, and Owen went after Buffaloes over the
hills, saw none, so that all this day has been disappointment to us.
Owen caught a _Spermophilus hoodii_. The brother of the dead Indian, who
gashed his legs fearfully this morning, went off with his wife and
children and six others, who had come here to beg. One of them had for
_a letter of recommendation_ one of the advertisements of the steamer
"Trapper," which will be kept by his chief for time immemorial to serve
as a pass for begging. He received from us ammunition and tobacco.
Sprague collected seeds this morning, and this afternoon copied my
sketch of the three Mamelles. Towards sunset I intend to go myself after
Rabbits, along the margins of the bushes and the shore. We have
returned from my search after Rabbits; Harris and I each shot one. We
saw five Wild Geese. Harris lost his snuff-box, which he valued, and
which I fear will never be found. Squires to-day proposed to me to let
him remain here this winter to procure birds and quadrupeds, and I would
have said "yes" at once, did he understand either or both these
subjects, or could draw; but as he does not, it would be useless.
_August 1, Tuesday._ The weather fine, and warmer than yesterday. We
sent off four Indians after Rabbits, but as we foolishly gave them
powder and shot, they returned without any very soon, having, of course,
hidden the ammunition. After breakfast Mr. C. had a horse put in the
cart, and three squaws went off after "pommes blanches," and Sprague and
I followed in the wagon, driven by Owen. These women carried sticks
pointed at one end, and blunt at the other, and I was perfectly
astonished at the dexterity and rapidity with which they worked. They
place the pointed end within six inches of the plant, where the stem
enters the earth, and bear down upon the other end with all their weight
and move about to the right and left of the plant until the point of the
stick is thrust in the ground to the depth of about seven inches, when
acting upon it in the manner of a lever, the plant is fairly thrown out,
and the root procured. Sprague and I, who had taken with us an
instrument resembling a very narrow hoe, and a spade, having rather
despised the simple instruments of the squaws, soon found out that these
damsels could dig six or seven, and in some cases a dozen, to our _one_.
We collected some seeds of these plants as well as those of some others,
and walked fully six miles, which has rendered my feet quite tender
again. Owen told me that he had seen, on his late journey up the
Yellowstone, Grouse, both old and young, with a black breast and with a
broad tail; they were usually near the margin of a wood. What they are I
cannot tell, but he and Bell are going after them to-morrow morning.
Just after dinner Provost and La Fleur returned with two male Antelopes,
skinned, one of them a remarkably large buck, the other less in size,
both skins in capital order. We have taken the measurements of the head
of the larger. The timber for our boat has been hauling across the
sand-bar ever since daylight, and of course the work will proceed pretty
fast. The weather is delightful, and at night, indeed, quite cool
enough. I spoke to Sprague last night about remaining here next winter,
as he had mentioned his wish to do so to Bell some time ago, but he was
very undecided. My regrets that I promised you all so faithfully that I
would return this fall are beyond description. I am, as years go, an old
man, but I do not feel old, and there is so much of interest here that I
forget oftentimes that I am not as young as Owen.
_August 2, Wednesday._ Bell and Owen started on their tour up the
Yellowstone[35] after Cocks of the Plain [Sage Grouse, _Centrocercus
urophasianus_]. Provost and Moncrevier went in the timber below after
Deer, but saw none. We had an arrival of six Chippeway Indians, and
afterwards about a dozen Assiniboins. Both these parties were better
dressed, and looked better off than any previous groups that we have
seen at this fort. They brought some few robes to barter, and the
traffic was carried on by Mr. Larpenteur in his little shop, through a
wicket. On the arrival of the Assiniboins, who were headed by an old
man, one of the Chippeways discovered a horse, which he at once not only
claimed, but tied; he threw down his new blanket on the ground, and was
leading off the horse, when the other Indian caught hold of it, and said
that he had fairly bought it, etc. The Chippeway now gave him his gun,
powder, and ball, as well as his _looking-glass_, the most prized of all
his possessions, and the Assiniboin, now apparently satisfied, gave up
the horse, which was led away by the new (or old) owner. We thought the
matter was ended, but Mr. Culbertson told us that either the horse or
the Chippeway would be caught and brought back. The latter had mounted a
fine horse which he had brought with him, and was leading the other
away, when presently a gun was heard out of the fort, and Mr. C. ran to
tell us that the horse of the Chippeway had been shot, and that the
rider was running as fast as he could to Fort Mortimer. Upon going out
we found the horse standing still, and the man running; we went to the
poor animal, and found that the ball had passed through the thigh, and
entered the belly. The poor horse was trembling like an aspen; he at
last moved, walked about, and went to the river, where he died. Now it
is curious that it was not the same Assiniboin who had sold the horse
that had shot, but another of their party; and we understand that it was
on account of an old grudge against the Chippeway, who, by the way, was
a surly-looking rascal. The Assiniboins brought eight or ten horses and
colts, and a number of dogs. One of the colts had a necklace of "pommes
blanches," at the end of which hung a handful of Buffalo calves' hoofs,
not more than 3/4 inch long, and taken from the calves before birth,
when the mothers had been killed. Harris and I took a ride in the wagon
over the Mauvaises Terres above the fort, in search of petrified wood,
but though we found many specimens, they were of such indifferent
quality that we brought home but one. On returning we followed a Wolf
path, of which there are hundreds through the surrounding hills, all
leading to the fort. It is curious to see how well they understand the
best and shortest roads. From what had happened, we anticipated a row
among the Indians, but all seemed quiet. Mr. C. gave us a good account
of Fort McKenzie. I have been examining the fawn of the Long-tailed Deer
of this country, belonging to old Baptiste; the man feeds it regularly,
and the fawn follows him everywhere. It will race backwards and
forwards over the prairie back of the fort, for a mile or more, running
at the very top of its speed; suddenly it will make for the gate, rush
through and overwhelm Baptiste with caresses, as if it had actually lost
him for some time. If Baptiste lies on the ground pretending to sleep,
the fawn pushes with its nose, and licks his face as a dog would, till
he awakens.
_August 3, Thursday._ We observed yesterday that the atmosphere was
thick, and indicated the first appearance of the close of summer, which
here is brief. The nights and mornings have already become cool, and
summer clothes will not be needed much longer, except occasionally.
Harris and Sprague went to the hills so much encrusted with shells. We
have had some talk about going to meet Bell and Owen, but the distance
is too great, and Mr. C. told me he was not acquainted with the road
beyond the first twenty-five or thirty miles. We have had a slight
shower, and Mr. C. and I walked across the bar to see the progress of
the boat. The horse that died near the river was hauled across to the
sand-bar, and will make good catfish bate for our fishers. This morning
we had another visitation of Indians, seven in number; they were very
dirty, wrapped in disgusting Buffalo robes, and were not allowed inside
the inner gate, on account of their filthy condition.