Of vegetable productions observed in thi_Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida, the Cherokee Country, the Extensive Territories of the Muscogulges, or Creek Confederacy, and the Country of the Chactaws. Containing an Account of the Soil and Natural Productions of Those Regions, Together With Observations on the Manners of the Indians.

viz. Acer striatum, Ac. rubrum, Juglans nigra, Jug. alba, Jug. Hickory,

Magnolia acuminata, Quercus alba, Q. tinctoria, Q. rubra, Q. prinus,

with the other varieties common in Virginia: Panax ginseng, Angelica

lucida, Convallaria majalis, Halesia, Stewartia, Styrax, Staphylea,

Evonimus, Viburnum, Cornus Florida, Betula nigra, Morus, Telea, Ulmus,

Fraxinus, Hopea tinctoria, Annona, Bignonia sempervirens, Aristalochia

frutescens, Bignonia radicans, &c. Being now refreshed by a simple but

healthy meal, I began again to ascend the Jore mountains, which I at

length accomplished, and rested on the most elevated peak; from whence

I beheld with rapture and astonishment a sublimely awful scene of power

and magnificence, a world of mountains piled upon mountains. Having

contemplated this amazing prospect of grandeur, I descended the

pinnacles, and again falling into the trading path, continued gently

descending through a grassy plain, scatteringly planted with large

trees, and at a distance surrounded with high forests. I was on this

elevated region sensible of an alteration in the air, from warm to

cold, and found that vegetation was here greatly behind, in plants of

the same kind of the country below; for instance, when I left

Charleston, the yellow Jasmine was rather past the blooming days, and

here the buds were just beginning to swell, though some were in bloom.

Continued more than a mile through this elevated plain to the pitch of

the mountain, from whence presented to view an expansive prospect,

exhibiting scenes of mountainous landscape, westward, vast and varied,

perhaps not to be exceeded any where.

My first descent and progress down the west side of the mountain was

remarkably gradual, easy and pleasant, through grassy open forests for

the distance of two or three miles; when my changeable path suddenly

turned round an obtuse point of a ridge, and descended precipitately

down a steep rocky hill for a mile or more, which was very toublesome,

being incommoded with shattered fragments of the mountains, and in

other places with boggy sinks, occasioned by oozy springs and rills

stagnate sinking in micaceous earth: some of these steep soft rocky

banks or precipices seem to be continually crumbling to earth; and in

these mouldering cliffs I discovered veins or strata of most pure and

clear white earth[52], having a faint bluish or pearl colour gleam,

somewhat exhibiting the appearance of the little cliffs or wavy crests

of new fallen snowdrifts: we likewise observe in these dissolving rocky

cliffs, veins of isinglass, (Mica. S. vitrum Muscoviticum) some of the

flakes or laminæ incredibly large, entire and transparent, and would

serve the purpose of lights for windows very well, or for lanthorns;

and here appeared strata of black lead (stibium.)

At length, after much toil and exercise, I was a little relieved by a

narrow grassy vale or lawn at the foot of this steep descent, through

which coursed along a considerable rapid brook, on whose banks grew in

great perfection the glorious Magnolia auriculata, together with the

other conspicuous flowering and aromatic shrubs already mentioned; and

I observed here in the rich bottoms near the creek, a new species of

Hydrastis, having very large sinuated leaves and white flowers; after

this I continued several miles over ridges and grassy vales, watered

with delightful rivulets.

Next day proceeding on eight or ten miles, generally through spacious

high forests and flowery lawns; the soil prolific, being of an

excellent quality for agriculture; came near the banks of a large creek

or river, where this high forest ended on my left hand, the trees

became more scattered and insensibly united with a grassy glade or lawn

bordering on the river; on the opposite bank of which appeared a very

extensive forest, consisting entirely of the Hemlock spruce (P. abies),

almost encircled by distant ridges of lofty hills.

Soon after crossing this large branch of the Tanase, I observed

descending the heights at some distance, a company of Indians, all well

mounted on horse-back; they came rapidly forward: on their nearer

approach, I observed a chief at the head of the caravan, and

apprehending him to be the Little Carpenter, emperor or grand chief of

the Cherokees, as they came up I turned off from the path to make way,

in token of respect, which compliment was accepted, and gratefully and

magnanimously returned; for his highness with a gracious and cheerful

smile came up to me, and clapping his hand on his breast, offered it to

me, saying, I am Ata-cul-culla; and heartily shook hands with me, and

asked me if I knew it. I answered that the Good Spirit who goes before

me spoke to me, and said, that is the great Ata-cul-culla; and added

that I was of the tribe of white men, of Pennsylvania, who esteem

themselves brothers and friends to the red men, but particularly so to

the Cherokees, and that notwithstanding we dwelt at so great a

distance, we were united in love and friendship, and that the name of

Ata-cul-culla was dear to his white brothers of Pennsylvania.

After this compliment, which seemed to be acceptable, he enquired if I

came lately from Charleston, and if John Stewart was well, saying that

the was going to see him. I replied that I came lately from Charleston

on a friendly visit to the Cherokees; that I had the honour of a

personal acquaintance with the superintendant, the beloved man, who I

saw well but the day before I set off, and who, by letters to the

principal white men in the nation, recommended me to the friendship and

protection of the Cherokees. To which the great chief was pleased to

answer very respectfully, that I was welcome in their country as a

friend and brother; and then shaking hands heartily bid me farewell,

and his retinue confirmed it by an united voice of assent. After giving

my name to the chief, requesting my compliments to the superintendant,

the emperor moved, continuing his journey for Charleston; and I, yet

persisting in my intention of visiting the Overhill towns, continued

on. Leaving the great forest, I mounted the high hills, descending them

again on the other side and so on repeatedly for several miles, without

observing any variation in the natural productions since passing the

Jore; and perceiving the slow progress of vegetation in this

mountainous, high country; and, upon serious consideration, it

appearing very plainly that I could not, with entire safety, range the

Overhill settlements until the treaty was over, which would not come on

till late in June; I suddenly came to a resolution to defer these

researches at this time, and leave them for the employment of another

season and more favourable opportunity, and return to Dartmouth in

Georgia, to be ready to join a company of adventurers who were to set

off in July for Mobile in West Florida. The leader of this company had

been recommended to me as a fit person to assist me on so long and

hazardous a journey, through the vast territories of the Creeks.

Therefore next day I turned about on my return, proceeding moderately,

being engaged in noting such objects as appeared to be of any moment,

and collecting specimens; and in the evening of next day arrived again

at Cowe.

Next morning Mr. Galahan conducted me to the chief of Cowe, who during

my absence had returned from the chace. The remainder of this day I

spent in observations in and about the town, reviewing my specimens,

&c.

The town of Cowe consists of about one hundred dwellings, near the

banks of the Tanase, on both sides of the river.

The Cherokees construct their habitations on a different plan from the

Creeks; that is but one oblong four square building, of one story high;

the materials consisting of logs or trunks of trees, stripped of their

bark, notched at their ends, fixed one upon another, and afterwards

plaistered well, both inside and out, with clay well tempered with dry

grass, and the whole covered or roofed with the bark of the chesnut

tree or long broad shingles. This building is however partitioned

transversely, forming three apartments, which communicate with each

other by inside doors; each house or habitation has besides a little

conical house, covered with dirt, which is called the winter or

hot-house; this stands a few yards distance from the mansion-house,

opposite the front door.

The council or town-house is a large rotunda, capable of accomodating

several hundred people: it stands on the top of an ancient artificial

mount of earth, of about twenty feet perpendicular, and the rotunda on

the top of it being above thirty feet more, gives the whole fabric an

elevation of about sixty feet from the common surface of the ground.

But it may be proper to observe, that this mount, on which the rotunda

stands, is of a much ancienter date than the building, and perhaps was

raised for another purpose. The Cherokees themselves are as ignorant as

we are, by what people or for what purpose these artificial hills were

raised; they have various stories concerning them, the best of which

amounts to no more than mere conjecture, and leave us entirely in the

dark; but they have a tradition common with the other nations of

Indians, that they found them in much the same condition as they now

appear, when their forefathers arrived from the West and possessed

themselves of the country, after vanquishing the nations of red men who

then inhabited it, who themselves found these mounts when they took

possession of the country, the former possessors delivering the same

story concerning them: perhaps they were designed and appropriated by

the people who constructed them, to some religious purpose, as great

altars and temples similar to the high places and sacred groves

anciently amongst the Canaanites and other nations of Palestine and

Judea.

The rotunda is constructed after the following manner: they first fix

in the ground a circular range of posts or trunks of trees, about six

feet high, at equal distances, which are notched at top, to receive

into them, from one to another, a range of beams or wall plates; within

this is another circular order of very large and strong pillars, above

twelve feet high, notched in like manner at top, to receive another

range of wall plates; and within this is yet another or third range of

stronger and higher pillars but fewer in number, and standing at a

greater distance from each other; and lastly, in the centre stands a

very strong pillar, which forms the pinnacle of the building, and to

which the rafters centre at top; these rafters are strengthened and

bound together by cross beams and laths, which sustain the roof or

covering, which is a layer of bark neatly placed, and tight enough to

exclude the rain, and sometimes they cast a thin superficies of earth

over all. There is but one large door, which serves at the same time to

admit light from without and the smoke to escape when a fire is

kindled; but as there is but a small fire kept, sufficient to give

light at night, and that fed with dry small sound wood divested of its

bark, there is but little smoke. All around the inside of the building,

betwixt the second range of pillars and the wall, is a range of cabins

or sophas, consisting of two or three steps, one above or behind the

other, in theatrical order, where the assembly sit or lean down; these

sophas are covered with mats or carpets, very curiously made of thin

splints of Ash or Oak, woven or platted together; near the great pillar

in the centre the fire is kindled for light, near which the musicians

seat themselves, and round about this the performers exhibit their

dances and other shows at public festivals, which happen almost every

night throughout the year.

About the close of the evening I accompanied Mr. Galahan and other

white traders to the rotunda, where was a grand festival, music and

dancing. This assembly was held principally to rehearse the ball-play

dance, this town being challenged to play against another the next day.

The people being assembled and seated in order, and the musicians

having taken their station, the ball opens, first with a long harangue

or oration, spoken by an aged chief, in commendation of the manly

exercise of the ball-play, recounting the many and brilliant victories

which the town of Cowe had gained over the other towns in the nation,

not forgetting or neglecting to recite his own exploits, together with

those of other aged men now present, coadjutors in the performance of

these athletic games in their youthful days.

This oration was delivered with great spirit and eloquence, and was

meant to influence the passions of the young men present, excite them

to emulation, and inspire them with ambition.

This prologue being at an end, the musicians began, both vocal and

instrumental; when presently a company of girls, hand in hand, dressed

in clean white robes and ornamented with beads, bracelets and a

profusion of gay ribbands, entering the door, immediately began to sing

their responses in a gentle, low, and sweet voice, and formed

themselves in a semicircular file or line, in two ranks, back to back,

facing the spectators and musicians, moving slowly round and round.

This continued about a quarter of an hour, when we were surprised by a

sudden very loud and shrill whoop, uttered at once by a company of

young fellows, who came in briskly after one another, with rackets or

hurls in one hand. These champions likewise were well dressed, painted,

and ornamented with silver bracelets, gorgets and wampum, neatly

ornamented with moccasins and high waving plumes in their diadems: they

immediately formed themselves in a semicircular rank also, in front of

the girls, when these changed their order, and formed a single rank

parallel to the men, raising their voices in responses to the tunes of

the young champions, the semicircles continually moving round. There

was something singular and diverting in their step and motions, and I

imagine not to be learned to exactness but with great attention and

perseverance. The step, if it can be so termed, was performed after the

following manner; first, the motion began at one end of the semicircle,

gently rising up and down upon their toes and heels alternately, when

the first was up on tip-toe, the next began to raise the heel, and by

the time the first rested again on the heel, the second was on tip-toe,

thus from one end of the rank to the other, so that some were always up

and some down, alternately and regularly, without the least baulk or

confusion; and they at the same time, and in the same motion, moved on

obliquely or sideways, so that the circle performed a double or complex

motion in its progression, and at stated times exhibited a grand or

universal movement, instantly and unexpectedly to the spectators, by

each rank turning to right and left, taking each others places: the

movements were managed with inconceivable alertness and address, and

accompanied with an instantaneous and universal elevation of the voice,

and shrill short whoop.

The Cherokees, besides the ball-play dance, have a variety of others

equally entertaining. The men especially exercise themselves with a

variety of gesticulations and capers, some of which are ludicrous and

diverting enough; and they have others which are of the martial order,

and others of the chace; these seem to be somewhat of a tragical

nature, wherein they exhibit astonishing feats of military prowess,

masculine strength and activity. Indeed all their dances and musical

entertainments seem to be theatrical exhibitions or plays, varied with

comic and sometimes lascivious interludes: the women however conduct

themselves with a very becoming grace and decency, insomuch that in

amorous interludes, when their responses and gestures seem consenting

to natural liberties, they veil themselves, just discovering a glance

of their sparkling eyes and blushing faces, expressive of sensibility.

Next morning early I set off on my return, and meeting with no material

occurrences on the road, in two days arrived safe at Keowe, where I

tarried two or three days, employed in augmenting my collections of

specimens, and waiting for Mr. Galahan, who was to call on me here, to

accompany him to Sinica, where he and other traders where to meet Mr.

Cameron, the deputy-commissary, to hold a congress at that town, with

the chiefs of the Lower Cherokees, to consult preliminaries

introductory to a general congress and treaty with these Indians, which

was to be convened next June, and held in the Overhill towns.

I observed in the environs of Keowe, on the bases of the rocky hills,

immediately ascending from the low grounds near the river bank, a great

number of very singular antiquities, the work of the ancients; they

seem to me to have been altars for sacrifice or sepulchres: they were

constructed of four flat stones, two set on an edge for the sides, one

closed one end, and a very large flat one lay horizontally at top, so

that the other end was open; this fabric was four or five feet in

length, two feet high and three in width. I enquired of the trader what

they were, who could not tell me certainly, but supposed them to be

ancient Indian ovens; the Indians can give no account of them: they are

on the surface of the ground, and are of different dimensions.

I accompanied the traders to Sinica, where we found the commissary and

the Indian chiefs convened in counsel: continued at Sinica some time,

employing myself in observations, and making collections of every thing

worthy of notice: and finding the Indians to be yet unsettled in their

determination and not in a good humour, I abandoned the project of

visiting the regions beyond the Cherokee mountains for this season; set

off for my return to fort James, Dartmouth, lodged this night in the

forests near the banks of a delightful large creek, a branch of Keowe

river, and next day arrived safe at Dartmouth.

List of the towns and villages in the Cherokee nation inhabited at this

day, viz.

No.

1 Echoe On the Tanase east of the Jore mountains. 4 towns.

2 Nucasse

3 Whatoga

4 Cowe

5 Ticoloosa Inland on the branches of the Tanase. 4 towns.

6 Jore

7 Conisca

8 Nowe

9 Tomothle On the Tanase over the Jore mountains. 8 towns.

10 Noewe

11 Tellico

12 Clennuse

13 Ocunnolufte

14 Chewe

15 Quanuse

16 Tellowe

17 Tellico Inland towns on the branches of the Tanase and other

waters over the Jore mountains. 5 towns.

18 Chatuga

19 Hiwasse

20 Chewase

21 Nuanha

22 Tallase Overhill towns on the Tanase or Cherokee river. 6

towns.

23 Chelowe

24 Sette

25 Chote great

26 Joco

27 Tahasse

28 Tamahle Overhill towns on the Tanase or Cherokee river. 5 towns.

29 Tuskege

30——. Big Island

31 Nilaque

32 Niowe

Lower towns east of the mountains, viz.

No.

1 Sinica On the Savanna or Keowe river.

2 Keowe

3 Kulsage

4 Tugilo On Tugilo river.

5 Estotowe

6 Qualatche On Flint river.

7 Chote

Towns on the waters of other rivers. Estotowe great. Allagae. Jore. Nae

oche In all forty-three towns.

[52] Mica nitida: specimens of this earth have been exported to

England, for the purpose of making Porcelain or China ware.

CHAPTER V.

Being returned from the Cherokee country to Dartmouth, I understood

that the company of adventurers for West Florida were very forward in

their preparations, and would be ready to set off in a few weeks, so

that I had but a little time allowed me to make provision and equip

myself for the prosecution of so long and hazardous a journey.

Our place of rendezvous was at fort Charlotte, on the opposite side of

the river Savanna, and about a mile from fort James. Having a desire to

make little botanical excursions towards the head of Broad river, in

order to collect some curiosities which I had observed thereabouts;

which being accomplished,

June 22d set out from fort Charlotte in company with Mr. Whitfield, who

was chief of our caravan. We travelled about twenty miles, and lodged

at the farm of Mons. St. Pierre, a French gentleman, who received and

entertained us with great politeness and hospitality. The mansion-house

is situated on the top of a very high hill near the banks of the river

Savanna, overlooking his very extensive and well cultivated plantations

of Indian Corn (Zea) Rice, Wheat, Oats, Indigo, Convolvulus Batata, &c.

these are rich low lands, lying very level betwixt these natural

heights and the river; his gardens occupy the gentle descent on one

side of the mount, and a very thriving vineyard, consisting of about

five acres, is on the other side.

Next morning after breakfast we set off again, continuing nine or ten

miles farther down the river, when we stopped at a plantation, the

property of one of our companions, where we were joined by the rest of

the company. After dining here we prepared to depart; and the gentleman

of the house taking an affectionate leave of his wife and children, we

sat off again, and proceeding six miles farther down the river, we

crossed over into Georgia, taking a road which led us into the great

trading path from Augusta to the Creek nation. As the soil, situation

and productions of these parts, for several days journey, differ very

little from the Northern districts of Georgia, already recited, when on

the survey of the New Purchase, I apprehend it needless to enter again

into a detail of particulars, since it would produce but little more

than a recapitulation of that journey.

Early in the evening of the 27th we arrived at the Flat-rock, where we

lodged. This is a common rendezvous or camping-place for traders and

Indians. It is an expansive clean flat or horizontal rock, but a little

above the surface of the ground, and near the banks of a delightful

rivulet of excellent water, which is one of the head branches of Great

Ogeche: in the loose rich soil verging round this rock, grew several

very curious herbaceous plants, particularly one of singular elegance

and beauty, which I take to be a species of Ipomea (Ipomea, caule

erecto, ramoso, tripedali, sol. radicalibus, pinnatifidis, linearibus,

humi-stratis, florib. incarnatis intus maculis coccineis adsperso). It

grows erect, three feet high, with a strong stem, which is decorated

with plumed or pinnatifid linear leaves, somewhat resembling those of

the Delphinium or Ipomea quamoclit; from about one half its length

upwards, it sends out on all sides, ascendent branches which divide

again and again; these terminate with large tubular or funnel-formed

flowers; their limbs equally divided into five segments; these

beautiful flowers are of a perfect rose colour, elegantly besprinkled

on the inside of their petals with crimson specks; the flowers are in

great abundance, and together with the branches and delicately fine cut

leaves, compose a conical spike or compound pannicle. I saw a species

of this plant, if not the very same, growing on the sea-coast islands

near St. Augustine. The blue flowered Malva and Delphinium were its

associates about the Flat-rock.

There are extensive cane brakes or cane meadows spread abroad round

about, which afford the most acceptable and nourishing food for cattle.

This evening two companies of Indian traders from Augusta arrived and

encamped near us; and as they were bound to the Nation, we concluded to

unite in company with them, they generously offering us their

assistance, having many spare horses and others lightly loaded, several

of ours by this time being jaded: this was a favourable opportunity of

relief in case of necessity.

Next morning as soon as the horses were packed and in readiness, we

decamped and set forward together.

I thought it worthy of taking notice of a singular method the traders

make use of to reduce the wild young horses to their hard duty. When

any one persists in refusing to receive his load, if threats, the

discipline of the whip, and other common abuse prove insufficient,

after being haltered, a pack-horseman catches the tip end of one of his

ears betwixt his teeth and pinches it, when instantly the furious

strong creature, trembling, stands perfectly still until he is loaded.

Our caravan consisting of about twenty men and sixty horses, we made a

formidable appearance, having now little to apprehend from predatory

bands or out-laws.

This day’s journey was for the most part over high gravelly ridges, and

on the most elevated hills appeared emerging out of the earth, rocky

cliffs of a dark reddish brown colour; their composition seemed to be a

coarse, sandy, ferruginous concrete, but so firmly cemented as to

constitute a perfect hard stone or rock, and appeared to be excavated

or worn into cavities and furrows by the violence of the dashing

billows and rapid currents of the ocean, which heretofore probably

washed them; there were however strata or veins in these rocks, of a

finer composition and compact consistence, and seemed ponderous, rich

iron ore. A little depth below the sandy gravelly surface lies a

stratum of very compact reddish yellow clay and fragments of ochre. The

trees and shrubs common on these gravelly ridges are as follows,

Diospyros, Quercus rubra, Q. nigra, Q. tinctoria or great Black Oak, Q.

alba, Q. lobata, post White Oak, Q. incana, foliis ovalibus

integerrimis subtus incanis, Pinus lutea, Pinus tæda, foliis geminatis

et trinis, strobilo ovato brevi, cortice rimoso, Pinus palustris,

foliis trinis longissimis, strobilo elongato, Cornus Florida, Andromeda

arborea, Nyssa sylvatica, Juglans hickory, Prunus padus, &c. Of

herbacaæ, Solidago, Eupatorium Sylphium, Rudbeckia, Gerardia,

Asclepias, Agave Virginica, Eryngium, Thapsia, Euphorbia, Polymnia, &c.

In the course of this day’s journey we crossed two considerable

rivulets, running swiftly over rocky beds. There is some very good land

on the gradual descents of the ridges and their bottoms bordering on

creeks, and very extensive grassy savannas and cane meadows always in

view on one hand or the other. At evening we came to camp on the banks

of a beautiful creek, a branch of Great Ogeche, called Rocky Comfort,

where we found excellent accommodations, here being pleasant grassy

open plains to spread our beds upon, environed with extensive cane

meadows, affording the best of food for our quadrupeds.

The next day’s journey led us over a level district; the land generally

very fertile and of a good quality for agriculture, the vegetable

surface being of a dark, loose, rich mould, on a stratum of stiff

reddish brown clay. Crossing several considerable creeks, branches of

the Ocone, North branch of the Alatamaha; at evening, July 1st,

encamped on the banks of the Ocone, in a delightful grove of forest

trees, consisting of Oak, Ash, Mulberry, Hickory, Black Walnut, Elm,

Sassafras, Gleditsia, &c. This flourishing grove was an appendage of

the high forests we had passed through, and projected into an

extensive, green, open, level plain, consisting of old Indian fields

and plantations, being the rich low lands of the river, and stretching

along its banks upwards to a very great distance, charmingly

diversified and decorated with detached groves and clumps of various

trees and shrubs, and indented on its verge by advancing and retreating

promontories of the high land.

Our encampment was fixed on the site of the old Ocone town, which,

about sixty years ago, was evacuated by the Indians, who finding their

situation disagreeable from its vicinity to the white people, left it,

moving upwards into the Nation or Upper Creeks, and there built a town,

but that situation not suiting their roving disposition, they grew

sickly and tired of it, and resolved to seek a habitation more

agreeable to their minds. They all arose, directing their migration

south-eastward towards the sea coast; and in the course of their

journey, observing the delightful appearance of the extensive plains of

Alachua and the fertile hills environing it, they sat down and built a

town on the banks of a spacious and beautiful lake, at a small distance

from the plains, naming this new town Cuscowilla: this situation

pleased them, the vast deserts, forests, lakes and savannas around,

affording unbounded range of the best hunting ground for bear and deer,

their favourite game. But although this situation was healthy and

delightful to the utmost degree, affording them variety and plenty of

every desirable thing in their estimation, yet troubles and afflictions

found them out. This territory, to the promontory of Florida, was then

claimed by the Tomocos, Utinas, Calloosas, Yamases, and other remnant

tribes of the ancient Floridans and the more Northern refugees, driven

away by the Carolinians, now in alliance and under the protection of

the Spaniards, who assisting them, attacked the new settlement and for

many years were very troublesome; but the Alachuas or Ocones being

strengthened by other emigrants and fugitive bands from the Upper

Creeks, with whom they were confederated, and who gradually established

other towns in this low country, stretching a line of settlements

across the isthmus, extending from the Alatamaha to the bay of

Apalache; these uniting, were at length able to face their enemies, and

even attack them in their own settlements, and in the end, with the

assistance of the Upper Creeks, their uncles, vanquished their enemies

and destroyed them, and then fell upon the Spanish settlements, which

they also entirely broke up. But having treated of these matters in the

journal of my travels into East Florida, I end this digression and

proceed again on my journey.

After crossing the Ocone by fording it, which is about two hundred and

fifty yards over, we travelled about twenty miles and came to camp in

the evening; passed over a pleasant territory, presenting varying

scenes of gentle swelling hills and levels, affording sublime forests,

contrasted by expansive illumined green fields, native meadows and Cane

brakes; the vegetables, trees, shrubs and plants the same as already

noticed without any material variation. The next day’s journey was

about twenty miles, having crossed the Oakmulge by fording it three or

four hundred yards over. This river is the main branch of the beautiful

Alatamaha; on the east bank of the river lies the famous Oakmulge

fields, where are yet conspicuous very wonderful remains of the power

and grandeur of the ancients of this part of America, in the ruins of a

capital town and settlement, as vast artificial hills, terraces, &c.

already particularly mentioned in my tour through the lower districts

of Georgia. The Oakmulge here is about forty miles distance from the

Ocone, the other arm of the Alatamaha. In the evening we came to camp

near the banks of Stony Creek, a large rapid water about six miles

beyond the river.

Next day we travelled about twenty miles farther, crossing two

considerable creeks named Great and Little Tobosochte; and at evening

encamped close by a beautiful large brook called Sweet Water, the

glittering wavy flood passing along actively over a bed of pebbles and

gravel. The territory through which we passed from the banks of the

Oakmulge to this place, exhibited a delightful diversified rural scene,

and promises a happy, fruitful and salubrious region, when cultivated

by industrious inhabitants; generally ridges of low swelling hills and

plains supporting grand forests, vast Cane meadows, savannas and

verdant lawns.

I observed here a very singular and beautiful shrub, which I suppose is

a species of Hydrangia (H. quercifolia). It grows in coppices or clumps

near or on the banks of rivers and creeks; many stems usually arise

from a root, spreading itself greatly on all sides by suckers or

offsets; the stems grow five or six feet high, declining or diverging

from each other, and are covered with several barks or rinds, the last

of which being of a cinereous dirt colour and very thin, at a certain

age of the stems or shoots, cracks through to the next bark, and is

peeled off by the winds, discovering the under, smooth, dark reddish

brown bark, which also cracks and peels off the next year, in like

manner as the former; thus every year forming a new bark; the stems

divide regularly or oppositely, though the branches are crooked or

wreathe about horizontally, and these again divide, forming others

which terminate with large heavy panicles or thyrsi of flowers; but

these flowers are of two kinds: the numerous partial spikes which

compose the panicles, and consist of a multitude of very small fruitful

flowers, terminate with one or more very large expansive neutral or

mock flowers, standing on a long, slender, stiff peduncle; these

flowers are composed of four broad oval petals or segments, of a dark

rose or crimson colour at first, but as they become older acquire a

deeper red or purplish hue, and lastly are of a brown or ferruginous

colour; these have no perfect parts of generation of either sex, but

discover in their centre two, three or four papillae or rudiments;

these neutral flowers, with the whole pannicle, are truly permanent,

remaining on the plant for years, until they dry and decay: the leaves

which clothe the plants are very large, pinnatifid or palmated, and

serrated, or toothed, very much resembling the leaves of some of our

Oaks; they sit opposite, supported by slender petioles and are of a

fine, full green colour.

[Illustration: Hydrangea Quercifolia]

Next day after noon we crossed Flint river by fording it, about two

hundred and fifty yards over, and at evening came to camp near the

banks of a large and deep creek, a branch of the Flint. The high land

excellent, affording grand forests, and the low ground vast timber and

Canes of great height and thickness, Arundo gigantea. I observed

growing on the steep dry banks of this creek, a species of shrub

Hypericum, of extraordinary show and beauty (Hypericum aureum). It

grows erect, three or four feet high, forming a globular top,

representing a perfect little tree; the leaves are large, oblong, firm

of texture, smooth and shining; the flowers are very large, their

petals broad and conspicuous, which, with their tufts of golden

filaments, give the little bushes a very splendid appearance.

The adjacent low grounds and Cane swamp afforded excellent food and

range for our horses, who, by this time, through fatigue of constant

travelling, heat of the climate and season, were tired and dispirited:

we came to camp sooner than usual, and started later next day, that

they might have time to rest and recruit themselves. The territory

lying upon this creek, and the space between it and the river, present

every appearance of a delightful and fruitful region in some future

day, it being a rich soil and exceedingly well situated for every

branch of agriculture and grazing, diversified with hills and dales,

savannas and vast Cane meadows, and watered by innumerable rivulets and

brooks, all contiguous to the Flint river: an arm of the great Chata

Uche or Apalachucla offers an uninterrupted navigation to the bay of

Mexico and Atlantic ocean, and thence to the West India islands and

over the whole world.

Our horses being hunted up and packed, sat forward again, proceeding

moderately, ascending a higher country and more uneven by means of

ridges of gentle hills; the country however very pleasing, being

diversified with expansive groves, savannas and Cane meadows, abounding

with creeks and brooks gliding through the plains or roving about the

hills, their banks bordered with forests and groves, consisting of

varieties of trees, shrubs and plants; the summits of the hills

frequently presenting to view piles and cliffs of the ferruginous

rocks, the same species as observed on the ridges between the Flat-rock

and Rocky Comfort.

Next day we travelled but a few miles; the heat and the burning flies

tormenting our horses to such a degree, as to excite compassion even in

the hearts of pack-horsemen. These biting flies are of several species,

and their numbers incredible. We travelled almost from sun-rise to his

setting, amidst a flying host of these persecuting spirits, who formed

a vast cloud around our caravan so thick as to obscure every distant

object; but our van always bore the brunt of the conflict; the head,

neck and shoulders of the leading horses were continually in a gore of

blood: some of these flies were near as large as humble bees; this is

the hippobosca. They are armed with a strong sharp beak or proboscis,

shaped like a lancet, and sheathed in flexible thin valves; with this

beak they instantly pierce the veins of the creatures, making a large

orifice from whence the blood springs in large drops, rolling down as

tears, causing a fierce pain or aching for a considerable time after

the wound is made. There are three or four species of this genus of

less size but equally vexatious, as they are vastly more numerous,

active and sanguineous; particularly, one about half the size of the

first mentioned, the next less, of a dusky colour with a green head;

another yet somewhat less, of a splendid green and the head of a gold

colour; the sting of this last is intolerable, no less acute than a

prick from a red-hot needle, or a spark of fire on the skin; these are

called the burning flies. Besides the preceding tormentors, there are

three or four species of the afilus or smaller biting flies; one of a

greyish dusky colour; another much of the same colour, having spotted

wings and a green head; and another very small and perfectly black:

this last species lie in ambush in shrubby thickets and Cane brakes

near water: whenever we approach the cool shades near creeks, impatient

for repose and relief, almost sinking under the persecutions from the

evil spirits, who continually surround and follow us over the burning

desert ridges and plains, and here in some hopes of momentary peace and

quietness, under cover of the cool humid groves, we are surprised and

quickly invested with dark clouds of these persecuting demons, besides

musquitoes and gnats (culex et cynips).

The next day being in like manner oppressed and harassed by the

stinging flies and heats, we halted at noon, being unable longer to

support ourselves under such grievances, even in our present situation

charming to the senses, on the acclivity of a high swelling ridge

planted with open airy groves of the superb terebenthine Pines,

glittering rills playing beneath, and pellucid brooks meandering

through an expansive green savanna, their banks ornamented with

coppices of blooming aromatic shrubs and plants perfuming the air. The

meridian heats just allayed, the sun is veiled in a dark cloud, rising

north-westward; the air still, gloomy and sultry; the animal spirits

sink under the conflict, and we fall into a kind of mortal torpor

rather than refreshing repose; and startled or terrified at each others

plaintive murmurs and groans. Now the earth trembles under the peals of

incessant distant thunder, the hurricane comes on roaring, and I am

shocked again to life: I raise my head and rub open my eyes, pained

with gleams and flashes of lightning; when just attempting to wake up

my afflicted brethren and companions, almost overwhelmed with floods of

rain, the dark cloud opens over my head, developing a vast river of the

ethereal fire; I am instantly struck dumb, inactive and benumbed; at

length the pulse of life begins to vibrate, the animal spirits begin to

exert their powers, and I am by degrees revived.

In the evening this surprisingly heavy tempest passed off, we had a

serene sky and a pleasant cool night; having had time enough to collect

a great quantity of wood and Pine knots to feed our fires and keep up a

light in our camp, which was a lucky precaution, as we found it

absolutely necessary to dry our clothes and warm ourselves, for all our

skins and bedding were cast over the packs of merchandize to prevent

them and our provision from being injured by the deluge of rain. Next

day was cool and pleasant, the air having recovered its elasticity and

vivific spirit: I found myself cheerful and invigorated; indeed all

around us appeared reanimated, and nature presents her cheerful

countenance; the vegetables smiled in their blooming decorations and

sparkling crystaline dew-drop. The birds sang merrily in the groves,

and the alert roe-buck whistled and bounded over the ample meads and

green turfy hills. After leaving our encampment, we travelled over a

delightful territory, presenting to view variable sylvan scenes,

consisting of chains of low hills affording high forests, with

expansive savannas, Cane meadows, and lawns between, watered with

rivulets and glittering brooks. Towards evening we came to camp on the

banks of Pintchlucco, a large branch of the Chata Uche river.

The next day’s journey was over an uneven hilly country, but the soil

generally fertile and of a quality and situation favourable to

agriculture and grazing, the summits of the ridges rough with

ferruginous rocks, in high cliffs and fragments, scattered over the

surface of the ground: observed also high cliffs of stiff reddish brown

clay, with veins or strata of ferruginous stones, either in detached

masses or conglomerated nodules or hematites with veins or masses of

ochre.

Next day after traversing a very delightful territory, exhibiting a

charming rural scenery of primitive nature, gently descending and

passing alternately easy declivities or magnificent terraces supporting

sublime forests, almost endless grassy fields, detached groves and

green lawns for the distance of nine or ten miles, we arrived at the

banks of the Chata Uche river opposite the Uche town, where after

unloading our horses, the Indians came over to us in large canoes, by

means of which, with the cheerful and liberal assistance of the

Indians, ferried over their merchandize, and afterwards driving our

horses altogether into the river swam them over: the river here is

about three or four hundred yards wide, carries fifteen or twenty feet

water, and flows down with an active current; the water is clear, cool

and salubrious.

The Uche town is situated in a vast plain, on the gradual ascent as we

rise from a narrow strip of low ground immediately bordering on the

river: it is the largest, most compact, and best situated Indian town I

ever saw; the habitations are large and neatly built; the walls of the

houses are constructed of a wooden frame, then lathed and plaistered

inside and out with a reddish well tempered clay or mortar, which gives

them the appearance of red brick walls; and these houses are neatly

covered or roofed with Cypress bark or shingles of that tree. The town

appeared to be populous and thriving, full of youth and young children:

I suppose the number of inhabitants, men, women and children, might

amount to one thousand or fifteen hundred, as it is said they are able

to muster five hundred gun-men or warriors. Their own national language

is altogether or radically different from the Creek or Muscogulge

tongue, and is called the Savanna or Savanuca tongue; I was told by the

traders it was the same with, or a dialect of the Shawanese. They are

in confederacy with the Creeks, but do not mix with them; and, on

account of their numbers and strength, are of importance enough to

excite and draw upon them the jealousy of the whole Muscogulge

confederacy, and are usually at variance, yet are wise enough to unite

against a common enemy, to support the interest and glory of the

general Creek confederacy.

After a little refreshment at this beautiful town, we repacked and set

off again for the Apalachucla town, where we arrived after riding over

a level plain, consisting of ancient Indian plantations, a beautiful

landscape diversified with groves and lawns.

This is esteemed the mother town or Capital of the Creek or Muscogulge

confederacy: sacred to peace; no captives are put to death or human

blood spilt here. And when a general peace is proposed, deputies from

all the towns in the confederacy assemble at this capital, in order to

deliberate upon a subject of so high importance for the prosperity of

the commonwealth.

And on the contrary the great Coweta town, about twelve miles higher up

this river, is called the bloody town, where the Micos, chiefs and

warriors assemble when a general war is proposed; and here captives and

state malefactors are put to death.

The time of my continuance here, which was about a week, was employed

in excursions round about this settlement. One day the chief trader of

Apalachucla obliged me with his company on a walk of about a mile and

an half down the river, to view the ruins and site of the ancient

Apalachucla: it had been situated on a peninsula formed by a doubling

of the river, and indeed appears to have been a very famous capital by

the artificial mounds or terraces, and a very populous settlement, from

its extent and expansive old fields, stretching beyond the scope of the

sight along the low grounds of the river. We viewed the mounds or

terraces, on which formerly stood their town house or rotunda and

square or areopagus, and a little behind these, on a level height or

natural step, above the low grounds, is a vast artificial terrace or

four square mound, now seven or eight feet higher than the common

surface of the ground; in front of one square or side of this mound

adjoins a very extensive oblong square yard or artificial level plain,

sunk a little below the common surface, and surrounded with a bank or

narrow terrace, formed with the earth thrown out of this yard at the

time of its formation: the Creeks or present inhabitants have a

tradition that this was the work of the ancients, many ages prior to

their arrival and possessing this country.

This old town was avacuated about twenty years ago by the general

consent of the inhabitants, on account of its unhealthy situation,

owing to the frequent inundations of the river over the low grounds;

and moreover they grew timorous and dejected, apprehending themselves

to be haunted and possessed with vengeful spirits, on account of human

blood that had been undeservedly[53] spilt in this old town, having

been repeatedly warned by apparitions and dreams to leave it.

At the time of their leaving this old town, like the ruin or dispersion

of the ancient Babel, the inhabitants separated from each other,

forming several bands under the conduct or auspices of the chief of

each family or tribe. The greatest number, however, chose to sit down

and build the present new Apalachucla town, upon a high bank of the

river above the inundations. The other bands pursued different routes,

as their inclinations led them, settling villages lower down the river;

some continued their migration towards the sea coast, seeking their

kindred and countrymen amongst the Lower Creeks in East Florida, where

they settled themselves. My intelligent friend, the trader of

Apalachucla, having from a long residence amongst these Indians

acquired an extensive knowledge of their customs and affairs, I

enquired of him what were his sentiments with respect to their

wandering, unsettled disposition; their so frequently breaking up their

old towns and settling new ones, &c. His answers and opinions were, the

necessity they were under of having fresh or new strong land for their

plantations, and new, convenient and extensive range or hunting ground,

which unavoidably forces them into contentions and wars with their

confederates and neighbouring tribes; to avoid which they had rather

move and seek a plentiful and peaceable retreat, even at a distance,

than to contend with friends and relatives or embroil themselves in

destructive wars with their neighbours, when either can be avoided with

so little inconvenience. With regard to the Muscogulges, the first

object in order to obtain these conveniencies was the destruction of

the Yamases, who held the possession of Florida and were in close

alliance with the Spaniards, their declared and most inveterate enemy,

which they at length fully accomplished; and by this conquest they

gained a vast and invaluable territory, comprehending a delightful

region, and a most plentiful country for their favourite game, bear and

deer. But not yet satisfied, having already so far conquered the

powerful Cherokees, as, in a manner, to force them in alliance, and

compelled the warlike Chicasaws to sue for peace and alliance with

them; they then grew arrogant and insatiable, and turned their covetous

looks towards the potent and intrepid Chactaws, the only Indian enemy

they had to fear, meaning to break them up and possess themselves of

that extensive, fruitful and delightful country, and make it a part of

their vast empire. But the Chactaws, a powerful, hardy, subtile and

intrepid race, estimated at twenty thousand warriors, are likely to

afford sufficient exercise for the proud and restless spirits of the

Muscogulges, at least for some years to come; and they appear to be so

equally matched with the Chactaws, that it seems doubtful which of

these powerful nations will rise victorious. The Creeks have sworn, it

seems, that they never will make peace with this enemy as long as the

rivers flow or the sun pursues his course through the skies.

Thus we see that war or the exercise of arms originates from the same

motives, and operates in the spirits of the wild red men of America, as

it formerly did with the renowned Greeks and Romans or modern civilized

nations, and not from a ferocious, capricious desire of sheding human

blood as carnivorous savages: neither does the eager avarice of plunder

stimulate them to acts of madness and cruelty, that being a trifling

object in their estimation, a duffield blanket, a polished rifle gun,

or embroidered mantle; no, their martial prowess and objects of desire

and ambition proceed from greater principles and more magnanimous

intentions, even that of reuniting all nations and languages under one

universal confederacy or commonwealth.

The vegetable productions in the rich low ground, near the banks of

this great river, of trees and shrubs, are as follow; Platanus

occidentalis, Liriodendron tulipifera, Populus heterophylla, Laurus

sassafras, Laurus Borbonia, Laurus benzoin, Betula lenta, Salix

fluvialis, Magnolia grandiflora, Annona glabra, Ulmus campestris, Ulmus

suberifera, Carpinus, Quercus, various species, Juglans, various

species, Æsculus pavia, Æsculus sylvatica, s. Virginiana, Morus, Hopea

tinctoria, Fagus sylvatica, of surprising magnitude and comeliness, &c.

The land rises from the river with sublime magnificence, gradually

retreating by flights or steps one behind and above the other, in

beautiful theatrical order, each step or terrace holding up a level

plain; and as we travel back from the river, the steps are higher, and

the corresponding levels are more and more expansive: the ascents

produce grand high forests, and the plains present to view a delightful

varied landscape, consisting of extensive grassy fields, detached

groves of high forest trees, and clumps of lower trees, evergreen

shrubs and herbage; green knolls, with serpentine, wavy, glittering

brooks coursing through the green plains, and dark promontories, or

obtuse projections of the side-long acclivities, alternately advancing

or receding on the verge of the illumined native fields, to the utmost

extent of sight. The summits of the acclivities afford, besides the

forest trees already recited, Halesia, Ptelea, Circis, Cornus Florida

and Amorpha. The upper mound or terrace holds up a dilated level plain

of excellent land, for the distance of five or six miles in width,

which is a high forest of the majestic trees already mentioned, as

Quercus tinctoria, Juglans nigra, Morus, Ulmus, Telea, Gleditsia,

Juglans hickory, &c. The land after this distance, though almost flat

and level, becomes leaner; the vegetative mould or surface is

shallower, on a stratum of tenacious humid clay, for the distance of

fifteen or twenty miles, more or less, according to the distance of the

next great river; presenting to our view a fine expanse of level grassy

plains, detached forests and groves of Quercus alba, Q. lobata, Q.

phillos, Q. hemispherica, Q. aquatica, with entire groves of the

splendid Nyssa sylvatica and perfumed Liquidambar styraciflua, vast

Cane meadows, and lastly a chain of grassy savannas. Immediately from

this we began to ascend gradually the most elevated, gravelly and stony

ridge, consisting of parallel chains of broken swelling hills, the very

highest chain frequently presenting to view cliffs of the ferruginous

rocks and red clay already noticed. This last mentioned high ridge

divides the waters of the great rivers from each other, whence arise

the sources of their numerous lateral branches, gradually increasing as

they wind about the hills, fertilizing the vales and level plains, by

their inundations, as they pour forth from the vast humid forests and

shaded prolific hills and lastly, flow down, with an easy meandering,

steady course, into the rivers to which they are tributary.

Our horses by this time having recruited themselves by ranging at

liberty and feeding in the rich young cane swamps, in the vicinity of

Apalachucla, we resumed our journey for Mobile, having here repaired

our equipage, and replenished ourselves with fresh supplies of

provisions. Our caravan was now reduced to its original number; the

companies of traders who joined us at the Flat-rock, on our arrival at

this town separated from us, betaking themselves to the several towns

in the Nation, where they were respectively bound. I shall just mention

a very curious non-descript shrub, which I observed growing in the

shady forests, beneath the ascents, next bordering on the rich low

lands of the river.

This stoloniferous shrub grows five or six feet in height; many stems

usually ascend from one root or the same source; these several stems

diverge from each other, or incline a little towards the earth, covered

with a smooth whitish bark, divided oppositely, and the branches

wreathe and twist about, being ornamented with compound leaves; there

being five lanceolate serrated leaves, associated upon one general long

slender petiole, which stand oppositely, on the branches, which

terminate with a spike, or pannicle of white flowers, having an

agreeable scent: from the characters of the flowers, this shrub appears

to be a species of Æsculus or Pavia, but as I could find none of the

fruit and but a few flowers, quite out of season and imperfect, I am

not certain.

[53] About fifty or sixty years ago almost all the white traders then

in the nation were massacred in his town, whither they had repaired

from the different towns, in hopes of an assylum or refuge, in

consequence of the alarm, having been timely apprised of the hostile

intentions of the Indians by their temporary wives. They all met

together in one house, under the avowed protection of the chiefs of

the town, waiting the event; but whilst the chiefs were assembled in

council, deliberating on ways and means to protect them, the Indians

in multitudes surrounded the house and set fire to it; they all, to

the number of eighteen or twenty, perished with the house in the

flames. The trader showed me the ruins of the house where they were

burnt.

CHAPTER VI.

July 13th we left the Apalachucla town, and three days journey brought

us to Talasse, a town on the Tallapoose river, North-East great branch

of the Alabama or Mobile river, having passed over a vast level plain

country of expansive savannas, groves, Cane swamps and open Pine

forests, watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks, tributary to

Apalachucla and Mobile. We now altered our course, turning to the left

hand, Southerly, and descending near the river banks, continually in

sight of the Indian plantations and commons adjacent to their towns.

Passed by Otasse, an ancient famous Muscogulge town. The next

settlement we came to was Coolome, where we stayed two days, and having

letters for Mr. Germany, the principal trader of Coolome, I meant to

consult with him in matters relative to my affairs and future

proceedings.

Here are very extensive old fields, the abandoned plantations and

commons of the old town, on the east side of the river; but the

settlement is removed, and the new town now stands on the opposite

shore, in a charming fruitful plain, under an elevated ridge of hills,

the swelling beds or bases of which are covered with a pleasing verdure

of grass; but the last ascent is steeper, and towards the summit

discovers shelving rocky cliffs, which appear to be continually

splitting and bursting to pieces, scattering their thin exfoliations

over the tops of the grassy knolls beneath. The plain is narrow where

the town is built: their houses are neat commodious buildings, a wooden

frame with plaistered walls, and roofed with Cypress bark or shingles;

every habitation consists of four oblong square houses, of one story,

of the same form and dimensions, and so situated as to form an exact

square, encompassing an area or court yard of about a quarter of an

acre of ground, leaving an entrance into it at each corner. Here is a

beautiful new square or areopagus, in the centre of the new town; but

the stores of the principal trader, and two or three Indian

habitations, stand near the banks of the opposite shore on the site of

the old Coolome town. The Tallapoose river is here three hundred yards

over, and about fifteen or twenty feet deep: the water is very clear,

agreeable to the taste, esteemed salubrious, and runs with a steady,

active current.

Being now recruited and refited, having obtained a guide to set us in

the great trading path for West Florida, early in the morning we sat

off for Mobile: our progress for about eighteen miles was through a

magnificent forest, just without or skirting on the Indian plantations,

frequently having a view of their distant towns, over plains or old

fields; and at evening came to camp under shelter of a grove of

venerable spreading oaks, on the verge of the great plains; their

enormous limbs loaded with Tillandsia usneadscites, waving in the

winds; these Oaks were some shelter to us from the violence of an

extraordinary shower of rain, which suddenly came down in such floods

as to inundate the earth, and kept us standing on our feet the whole

night, for the surface of the ground was under water almost till

morning. Early next morning, our guide having performed his duty, took

leave, returning home, and we continued on our journey, entering on the

great plains. We had not proceeded far before our people roused a

litter of young wolves, to which giving chase, we soon caught one of

them, it being entangled in high grass, one of our people caught it by

the hind legs, and another beat out its brains with the but of his

gun,—barbarous sport!—This creature was about half the size of a small

cur-dog, and quite black.

We continued over these expansive illumined grassy plains, or native

fields, above twenty miles in length, and in width eight or nine, lying

parallel to the river, which was about ten miles distance; they are

invested by high forests, extensive points or promontories, which

project into the plains on each side, dividing them into many vast

fields opening on either hand as we passed along, which presents a

magnificent and pleasing sylvan landscape of primitive, uncultivated

nature. Crossed several very considerable creeks, their serpentine

courses being directed across the plain by gently swelling knolls,

perceptible at a distance, but which seem to vanish or disappear as we

come upon them; the creeks were waters of the Alabama, the name of the

east arm of the Mobile below the confluence of the Tallapoose. These

rivulets were ornamented by groves of various trees and shrubs, which

do not spread far from their banks. I observed amongst them the wild

Crab (Pyrus coronaria) and Prunus Indica or wild Plumb, Cornus Florida,

and on the grassy turf adjoining grew abundance of Strawberry vines:

the surface of the plains or fields is clad with tall grass, intermixed

with a variety of herbage. The most conspicuous, both for beauty and

novelty, is a tall species of Silphium; the radical leaves are large,

long and lightly sinuated, but those which garnish the stem are few and

less sinuated; these leaves with the whole plant, except the flowers,

appear of a whitish green colour, which is owing to a fine soft silky

down or pubescence; the flower stem, which is eight or ten feet in

length when standing erect, terminates upwards with a long heavy spike

of large golden yellow radiated flowers; the stem is usually seen

bowing on one side or other, occasioned by the weight of the flowers,

and many of them are broken, just under the pannicle or spike, by their

own weight, after storms and heavy rains, which often crack or split

the stem, from whence exudes a gummy or resinous substance, which the

sun and air harden into semi-pellucid drops or tears of a pale amber

colour. This resin possesses a very agreeable fragrance and bitterish

taste, somewhat like frankincense or turpentine; it is chewed by the

Indians and traders, to cleanse their teeth and mouth, and sweeten

their breath.

The upper stratum or vegetative mould of these plains is perfectly

black, soapy and rich, especially after rains, and renders the road

very slippery; it lies on a deep bed of white, testaceous, limestone

rocks, which in some places resemble chalk, and in other places are

strata or subterrene banks of various kinds of sea shells, as ostrea,

&c. these dissolving near the surface of the earth, and mixing with the

superficial mould, render it extremely productive.

Immediately after leaving the plains we enter the grand high forests.

There were stately trees of the Robinea pseudacacia, Telea, Morus,

Ulmus, Juglans exaltata, Juglans nigra, Pyrus coronaria, Cornus

Florida, Cercis, &c. Our road now for several miles led us near the

Alabama, within two or three miles of its banks: the surface of the

land is broken into hills and vales, some of them of considerable

elevation, covered with forests of stately trees, such as already

mentioned, but they are of a much larger growth than those of the same

kind which grow in the Southern or inhabited parts of Georgia and

Carolina. We now leave the river at a good distance, the Alabama

bearing away Southerly, and entered a vast open forest which continued

above seventy miles, east and west, without any considerable variation,

generally a level plain, except near the banks of creeks that course

through; the soil on the surface is a dusky brownish mould or sandy

loam, on a foundation of stiff clay, and the surface pebbles or gravel

mixed with clay on the summits of the ridges; the forests consist

chiefly of Oak, Hickory, Ash, Sour Gum (Nyssa sylvatica), Sweet Gum

(Liquidambar styraciflua), Beech, Mulberry, Scarlet maple, Black

walnut, Dog-wood, Cornus Florida, Æsculus pavia, Prunus Indica, Ptelea,

and an abundance of Chesnut (Fag. castanea) on the hills, with Pinus

tæda and Pinus lutea. During our progress over this vast high forest,

we crossed extensive open plains, the soil gravelly, producing a few

trees and shrubs or undergrowth, which were entangled with Grape vines

(Vitis campestris) of a peculiar species; the bunches (racemes) of

fruit were very large, as were the grapes that composed them, though

yet green and not fully grown, but when ripe are of various colours,

and their juice sweet and rich. The Indians gather great quantities of

them, which they prepare for keeping, by first sweating them on hurdles

over a gentle fire, and afterwards dry them on their bunches in the sun

and air, and store them up for provision. These Grape vines do not

climb into high trees, but creep along from one low shrub to another,

extending their branches to a great distance horizontally round about,

and it is very pleasing to behold the clusters pendant from the vines,

almost touching the earth, indeed some of them lie upon the ground.

We now enter a very remarkable grove of Dog wood trees (Cornus

Florida), which continued nine or ten miles unalterable, except here

and there a towering Magnolia grandiflora; the land on which they stand

is an exact level; the surface a shallow, loose, black mould, on a

stratum of stiff, yellowish clay. These trees were about twelve feet

high, spreading horizontally; their limbs meeting and interlocking with

each other, formed one vast, shady, cool grove, so dense and humid as

to exclude the sun-beams and prevent the intrusion of almost every

other vegetable, affording us a most desirable shelter from the fervid

sun-beams at noon-day. This admirable grove by way of eminence has

acquired the name of the Dog woods.

During a progress of near seventy miles, through this high forest,

there constantly presented to view on one hand or the other, spacious

groves of this fine flowering tree, which must, in the spring season,

when covered with blosoms present a most pleasing scene; when at the

same time a variety of other sweet shrubs display their beauty, adorned

in their gay apparel, as the Halesia, Stewartia, Æsculus pavia, Æsc.

alba, Æsc. Florid. ramis divaricatis, thyrsis grandis, flosculis

expansis incarnatis, Azalea, &c. entangled with garlands of Bignonia

crucigera, Big. radicans, Big. sempervirens, Glycine frutescens,

Lonicera sempervirens, &c. and at the same time the superb Magnolia

grandiflora, standing in front of the dark groves, towering far above

the common level.

The evening cool, we encamped on the banks of a glittering rivulet

amidst a spicy grove of the Illicium Floridanum.

Early next morning we arose, hunted up our horses and proceeded on,

continuing about twenty miles, over a district which presented to view

another landscape; expansive plains of Cane meadows, and detached

groves, contrasted by swelling ridges, and vales supporting grand

forests of the trees already noted, embellished with delightful creeks

and brooks, their low grounds producing very tall canes, and their

higher banks groves of the Illicium, Callicanthus, Stewartia, Halesia,

Styrax and others, particulary Magnolia auriculata. In the evening we

forded the river Schambe about fifty yards over, the stream active but

shallow, which carries its waters into the bay of Pensacola. Came to

camp on the banks of a beautiful creek, by a charming grove of the

Illicium Floridanum; from this we travelled over a level country above

fifty miles, very gently but perceptibly descending south-eastward

before us; this district exhibited a landscape very different from what

had presented to view since we left the nation, and not much unlike the

low countries of Carolina; it is in fact one vast flat grassy savanna

and Cane meadows, intersected or variously scrolled over with narrow

forests and groves, on the banks of creeks and rivulets, or hommocks

and swamps at their sources; with long leaved Pines, scatteringly

planted, amongst the grass, and on the high sandy knolls and swelling

ridges, Quercus nigra, Quercus flammula, Quercus incana, with various

other trees and shrubs as already noted, inhabiting such situations.

The rivulets however exhibited a different appearance, they are

shallower, course more swift over gravelly beds, and their banks

adorned with Illicium groves, Magnolias, Azaleas, Halesia, Andromedas,

&c. The highest hills near large creeks afford high forests with

abundance of Chesnut trees.

We now approached the bay of Mobile, gently ascending a hilly district,

being the highest forest adjoining the extensive rich low lands of the

river; these heights are somewhat encumbered with pebbles, fragments

and cliffs of rusty ferruginous rocks; the stones were ponderous and

indicated very rich iron ore; here was a small district of good land,

on the acclivities and bases of these ridges, and a level forest below,

watered by a fine creek, running into the Mobile. From hence we

proceeded, again descending, and travelled about nine miles generally

over a level country consisting of savannas, Cane swamps, and gently

rising knolls, producing Pinus tæda, Nyssa sylvatica, Quercus rubra,

Fagus castanea, Fraxinus, with other trees. Arrived at Taensa, a pretty

high bluff, on the eastern channel of the great Mobile river, about

thirty miles above fort Condé, or city of Mobile, at the head of the

bay.

Next day early in the morning I embarked in a boat, and proceeded for

Mobile; along the banks of islands (near twenty miles) which lay in the

middle of the river, between the eastern and western shores of the

main: the banks of these low flat rich islands are well cultivated,

having on them extensive farms and some good habitations, chiefly the

property of French gentlemen, who reside in the city, as being more

pleasant and healthy. Leaving these islands, we continued ten or twelve

miles between the Eastern main and a chain of low grassy islands, too

low and wet for cultivation: then crossed over the head of the bay, and

arrived in town in the evening.

The city of Mobile is situated on the easy ascent of a rising bank,

extending near half a mile back on the level plain above; it has been

near a mile in length, though now chiefly in ruins, many houses vacant

and mouldering to earth; yet there are a few good buildings inhabited

by French gentlemen, English, Scotch and Irish, and emigrants from the

Northern British colonies. Messrs. Swanson and M’Gillivray, who have

the management of the Indian trade, carried on with the Chicasaws,

Chactaws, Upper and Lower Creeks, &c. have made here very extraordinary

improvements in buildings.

The fort Condé, which stands very near the bay, towards the lower end

of the town, is a large regular fortress of brick.

The principal French buildings are constructed of brick, and are of one

story, but on an extensive scale, four square, encompassing on three

sides a large area or court yard: the principal apartment is on the

side fronting the street; they seem in some degree to have copied after

the Creek habitation in the general plan: those of the poorer class are

constructed of a strong frame of Cypress, filled in with brick,

plaistered and white-washed inside and out.

July 31st, 1778, the air being very hot and sultry, thermometer up at

87, we had excessive thunder, and repeated heavy showers of rain, from

morning until evening.

Not having an immediate opportunity from hence to Manchac, a British

settlement on the Mississipi, I endeavoured to procure a light canoe,

with which I designed to pursue my travels along shore to the

settlements about Pearl river.

August 5th, set off from Mobile up the river in a trading boat, and was

landed at Taensa bluff, the seat of Major Farmer, to make good my

engagements, in consequence of an invitation from that worthy

gentleman, to spend some days in his family: here I obtained the use of

a light canoe to continue my voyage up the river. The settlement of

Taensa is on the site of an ancient town of a tribe of Indians of that

name, which is apparent from many artificial mounds of earth and other

ruins. Besides Mr. Farmer’s dwellings, there are many others inhabited

by French families, who are chiefly his tenants. It is a most

delightful situation, commanding a spacious prospect up and down the

river, and the low lands of his extensive plantations on the opposite

shore. In my excursions about this place, I observed many curious

vegetable productions, particularly a species of Myrica (Myrica

inodora): this very beautiful evergreen shrub, which the French

inhabitants call the Wax tree, grows in wet sandy ground about the

edges of swamps; it rises erect nine or ten feet, dividing itself into

a multitude of nearly erect branches, which are garnished with many

shining deep green entire leaves of a lanceolate figure; the branches

produce abundance of large round berries, nearly the size of bird

cherries, which are covered with a scale or coat of white wax; no part

of this plant possesses any degree of fragrance. It is in high

estimation with the inhabitants for the production of wax for candles,

for which purpose it answers equally well with bees-wax, or preferably,

as it is harder and more lasting in burning.

Early on a fine morning I set sail up the river, took the East channel,

and passed along by well cultivated plantations on the fertile islands,

in the river on my left han: these islands exhibit every show of

fertility; the native productions exceed any thing I had ever seen,

particularly the Reeds or Canes (Arundo gigantea) grow to a great

height and thickness.

Early one morning, passing along by some old uncultivated fields, a few

miles above Taensa, I was struck with surprise at the appearance of a

blooming plant, gilded with the richest golden yellow: stepping on

shore, I discovered it to be a new species of the Oenothera (Oenothera

grandiflora, caule erecto, ramoso, piloso, 7, 8 pedali, foliis

semi-amplexi-caulibus, lanceolatis, serrato-dentatis, floribus magnis,

fulgidis, sessilibus, capsulis cylindricis, 4 angulis), perhaps the

most pompous and brilliant herbaceous plant yet known to exist. It is

an annual or biennial, rising erect seven or eight feet, branching on

all sides from near the earth upwards, the lower branches extensive,

and the succeeding gradually shorter to the top of the plant, forming a

pyramid in figure; the leaves are of a broad lanceolate shape, dentated

or deeply serrated, terminating with a slender point, and of a deep

full green colour; the large expanded flowers, that so ornament this

plant, are of a splendid perfect yellow colour; but when they contract

again, before they drop off, the underside of the petals next the calyx

becomes of a reddish flesh colour, inclining to vermilion, the flowers

begin to open in the evening, are fully expanded during the night, and

are in their beauty next morning, but close and wither before noon.

There is a daily profuse succession for many weeks, and one single

plant at the same instant presents to view many hundred flowers. I have

measured these flowers above five inches in diameter, they have an

agreeable scent.

After leaving these splendid fields of the golden Oenothera, I passed

by old deserted plantations and high forests; and now having advanced

above ten miles, landed at a bluff, where mooring my bark in a safe

harbour, I ascended the bank of the river, and penetrating the groves,

came presently to old fields, where I observed ruins of ancient

habitations, there being abundance of Peach and Fig trees, loaded with

fruit, which affording a very acceptable dessert after the heats and

toil of the day, and evening drawing on apace, I concluded to take up

my quarters here for the night. The Fig trees were large as well as

their fruit, which was when ripe, of the shape of pears, and as large,

and of a dark bluish purple colour.

Next morning I arose early, continuing my voyage; passing by, on each

hand, high forests and rich swamps, and frequently ruins of ancient

French plantations; the Canes, and Cypress trees of an astonishing

magnitude, as were the trees of other tribes, indicating an excellent

soil. Came to at noon, and advancing forward from the river, and

penetrating the awful shades, passed between the stately columns of the

Magnolia grandiflora, and came to the ascents supporting the high

forests and expansive plains above—What a sylvan scene is here! the

pompous Magnolia, reigns sovereign of the forests; how sweet the

aromatic Illicium groves! how gaily flutter the radiated wings of the

Magnolia auriculata, each branch supporting an expanded umbrella,

superbly crested with a silver plume, fragrant blossom, or crimson

studded strobile and fruits! I recline on the verdant bank, and view

the beauties of the groves. Æsculus pavia, Prunus nemoralis, floribus

racemosis, foliis sempervirentibus, nitidis, Æsculus alba, Hydrangia

quercifolia, Cassine, Magnolia pyramidata, foliis ovatis, oblongis,

acuminatis, basi auriculatis, strobilo oblongo ovato, Myrica, Rhamnus

frangula, Halesea, Bignonia, Azalea, Lonicera, Sideroxylon, with many

more.

Returned to the river, re-embarked, and at evening came to, in sight of

the confluence or junction of the two large arms of the great Mobile

river i. e. the Tombigbe or Chicasaw with the Alabama or Coosau. About

one hundred and fifty miles above this conflux at Ft. Thoulouse, the

Alabama receives into it from the East the great Talapoose river, when

the former takes the name of Coosau, which it bears to its source,

which is in the So. West promontories of the Cherokee or Apalachian

Mountains in the Chickasaw territories.

Observed very large alligators, basking on the shores, as well as

swimming in the river and lagoons.

Next morning entered the Tombigbe, and ascended that fine river. Just

within its capes, on the left hand is a large lagoon, or capacious bay

of still water, containing many acres in surface, which at a distant

view presents a very singular and diverting scene; a delusive green

wavy plain of the Nymphæa nelumbo: the surface of the water is

overspread with its round floating leaves, whilst these are shadowed by

a forest of umbrageous leaves with gay flowers, waving to and fro on

flexible stems, three or four feet high: these fine flowers are double

as a rose, and when expanded are seven or eight inches in diameter, of

a lively lemon yellow colour. The seed vessel when ripe, is a large

truncated, dry porous capsule, its plane or disk regularly perforated,

each cell containing an oval osseous gland or nut, of the size of a

filbert; when these are fully grown, before they become quite hard,

they are sweet and pleasant eating, and taste like chesnuts: I fed

freely on them without any injury, but found them laxative. I have

observed this aquatic plant, in my travels along the Eastern shores of

this continent, in the large rivers and lakes, from New-Jersey to this

place, particularly in a large pond or lake near Cape Fear river in

North Carolina, which is about two miles over and twelve feet water,

notwithstanding which its surface is almost covered with the leaves of

this plant; it also abounds in Wakamaw lake near the same river, and in

Savanna river at Augusta, and all over East Florida.

Proceeding up the river, came to at a very high steep bluff of red and

particoloured tenacious clay, under a deep stratum of loose sandy

mould: after ascending this steep bank of the river, I found myself in

an old field, and penetrating the forests surrounding, observed them to

be young growth, covering very extensive old plantations, which was

evident from the ridges and hillocks which once raised their Corn

(Zea), Batatas, &c. I suppose this to be the site of an ancient

fortified post of the French, as there appear vestiges of a rampart and

other traces of a fortress; perhaps fort Louis de la Mobile, but in all

probability it will not remain long visible; the stream of the river

making daily encroachments on it, by carrying away the land on which it

stood.

Observed here amongst other vegetable productions, a new species, or at

least a variety of Halesia diptera; these trees are of the size and

figure of ordinary Mulberry trees, their stems short, and tops regular

and spreading, and the leaves large and broad, in size and figure

resembling those of our common wild Mulberry.

Opposite this bluff, on the other side of the river, is a district of

swamp or low land, the richest I ever saw, or perhaps any where to be

seen: as for the trees I shall forbear to describe them, because it

would appear incredible; let it suffice to mention, that the Cypress,

Ash, Platanus, Populus, Liquidambar, and others, are by far the

tallest, straightest and every way the most enormous that I have seen

or heard of. And as a proof of the extraordinary fertility of the soil,

the reeds or canes (Arundo gigantea) grow here thirty or forty feet

high, and as thick as a man’s arm, or three or four inches in diameter;

I suppose one joint of some of them would contain above a quart of

water; and these reeds serve very well for setting poles, or masts for

barks and canoes. Continued yet ascending this fine river, passing by

the most delightful and fertile situations: observed frequently, on

bluffs of high land, deserted plantations, the houses always burnt down

to the ground, and ancient Indian villages. But perceiving little

variation in the natural vegetable productions, the current of the

river pressing down with increased force and velocity, I turned about,

descending the river, and next evening came to at a large well

cultivated plantation, where lodged all night, and the evening

following returned to Taensa.

Next day I felt symptoms of a fever, which in a few days laid me up and

became dangerous. But a dose of Tart. Emet. broke its violence; and

care and good attendance after a few days, in some degree restored my

health, at least, so far as to enable me to rove about the neighbouring

forests; and here being informed of a certain plant of extraordinary

medical virtues, and in high estimation with the inhabitants, which

grew in the hilly land about thirty miles higher up the river, I

resolved to set out in search of it, the Major being so polite and

obliging as to furnish me with horses to ride, and a Negro to pilot and

take care of me.

Sat off in the morning, and in the course of the day’s journey crossed

several creeks and brooks, one of which swam our horses. On passing by

a swamp at the head of a bay or lagoon of the river, I observed a

species of Cypress; it differs a little from the white Cedar of

New-Jersey and Pennsylvania (Cupressus thyoides), the trunk is short

and the limbs spread horizontally, the branches fuller of leaves, and

the cones larger, and of a crimson or reddish purple colour when ripe.

After leaving the low grounds and ascending the hills, discovered the

plant I went in search of, which I had before frequently observed in my

descent from the Creek nation down towards Taensa. This plant appears

to be a species of Collinsonia; it is diuretic and carminative, and

esteemed a powerful febrifuge, an infusion of its tops is ordinarily

drank at breakfast, and is of an exceeding pleasant taste and flavour:

when in flower, which is the time the inhabitants gather it for

preservation and use, it possesses a lively aromatic scent, partaking

of lemon and aniseed. Lodged this night at a plantation near the river,

and met with civility and good entertainment. The man and his three

sons are famous hunters. I was assured, from good authority, that the

old gentleman, for his own part, kills three hundred deer annually,

besides bears, tygers, and wolves.

Next morning early, sat off again, on my return, and taking a different

path back, for the sake of variety, though somewhat farther about, and

at a greater distance from the banks of the river, observed abundance

of the tall blue Sage: it grows six or seven feet high; many stems

arise from one root or source; these stems are thick, woody and

quadrangular, the angles obtuse: the narrow lanceolate and serrated

leaves are placed opposite, and are sessile, lightly embracing the

branches, which terminate with spikes of large flowers of a celestial

blue colour.

These stony, gravelly heights produce a variety of herbaceous plants,

but one in particular I shall mention on account of its singular

beauty: I believe it is a species Gerardea (Gerardea flammea); it grows

erect, a single stem from a root, three or four feet in height,

branching very regular from about one half its length upwards, forming

a cone or pyramid, profusely garnished with large tubular labiated

scarlet or flame coloured flowers, which give the plant a very splendid

appearance, even at a great distance. Returned home in the evening

fully satisfied with the day’s excursion, from the discovery of many

curious and beautiful vegetables.

Having advice from Mobile of an opportunity to Manchac, although my

health was not established, feverish symptoms continuing to lurk about

me, I resolved, notwithstanding, immediately to embrace this offer, and

embarked again, descending the river to the city in company with Dr.

Grant, a physician of the garrison, and late in the evening arrived in

town, having suffered a smart fit of the fever by the way.

In the course of conversation with the doctor, I remarked that during

my travels since leaving the Creek nation, and when there, I had not

seen any honey bees. He replied, that there were few or none west of

the isthmus of Florida, and but one hive in Mobile, which was lately

brought there from Europe, the English supposing that there were none

in the country, not finding any when they took possession of it after

the Spanish and French. I had been assured by the traders that there

were none in West Florida, which to me seemed extraordinary and almost

incredible, since they are so numerous all along the Eastern continent

from Nova Scotia to East Florida, even in the wild forests, as to be

thought by the generality of the inhabitants, aborigines of this

continent.

The boat in which I had taken a passage to Pearl river, not being in

readiness to depart for several days to come, I sought opportunities to

fill up this time to the best advantage possible; and hearing of a boat

going to the river Perdedo, for the purpose of securing the remains of

a wreck, I apprehended this a favourable time to go and search that

coast, the captain civilly offering me a passage and birth with him in

a handsome light sailing boat. Set sail early on a fine morning, and

having a brisk leading breeze, came to in the evening just within

Mobile point; collected a quantity of drift wood to keep up a light,

and smoke away the musquitoes, and rested well on the clean sandy beach

until the cool morning awoke us. We hoisted sail again and soon doubled

the point or East promontory of the cape of the bay, stretching out

many miles and pointing towards Dauphin island, between which and this

cape is the ship channel.

Coasting along the sea-shore eastward, we soon came up to the wreck,

which being already stripped of her sails, &c. our captain kept on for

Pensacola, where we arrived late in the evening.

My arrival at this capital, at present the seat of government, was

merely accidental and undesigned; and having left at Mobile all my

papers and testimonials, I designed to conceal my avocations, but my

name being made known to Dr. Lorimer, one of the honourable council, he

sent me a very polite invitation, and requested that he might acquaint

governor Chester of my arrival, who he knew would expect that I should

wait on him, and would be pleased to see me. I begged to be excused, at

this time, as the boat would sail back for Mobile in a few hours, in

which I was under the necessity of returning, or must lose my passage

to the Mississipi; but during this expostulation, I received a letter

from Mr. Livingston the secretary, whom I waited upon, and was received

very respectfully and treated with the utmost politeness and

affability. Soon after, the governor’s chariot passed by, his

excellency returning from a morning visit to his farm a few miles from

Pensacola. Mr. Livingston went with me and introduced me to the

governor, who commended my pursuits, and invited me to continue in West

Florida in researches after subjects of natural history, &c. nobly

offering to bear my expences, and a residence in his own family as long

as I chose to continue in the colony; very judiciously observing, that

a complete investigation of its natural history could not be

accomplished in a short space of time, since it would require the

revolution of the seasons to discover and view vegetable nature in all

her various perfections.

The captain of our fortunate bark by this time being ready to sail, I

took leave of his excellency the governor, and bid adieu to my friends

Dr. Lorimer, Mr. Livingston, and others: set sail about noon on our

return, and came to again within the capes of Mobile river.

Since I have hitherto given a superficial account of the towns, ports,

improvements and other remarkable productions of nature, and human arts

and industry, during the course of my peregrination, I shall not pass

by Pensacola and its environs. This city commands some natural

advantages, superior to any other port in this province, in point of

naval commerce, and such as human art and strength can never supply. It

is delightfully situated upon gentle rising ascents environing a

spacious harbour, safe and capacious enough to shelter all the navies

of Europe, and excellent ground for anchorage; the west end of St. Rose

island stretches across the great bay St. Maria Galves, and its

South-West projecting point forms the harbour of Pensacola, which, with

the road or entrance, is defended by a block-house built on the

extremity of that point, which at the same time serves the purpose of a

fortress and look-out tower. There are several rivers which run into

this great bay from the continent, but none of them navigable for large

craft, to any considerable distance into the country: the Shambe is the

largest, which admits shallops some miles up, and Perriauguas upwards

of fifty miles. There are some spots of good high land, and rich

swamps, favourable for the production of rice on the banks of this

river, which have given rise to some plantations producing Indigo,

Rice, Corn, Batatas, &c. These rivers dividing and spreading abroad

their numerous branches, over the expansive flat low country (between

the two great rivers Apalachucla and Mobile), which consists of

savannas and cane meadows, fill them with brooks and water courses, and

render them exuberant pasture for cattle.

There are several hundred habitations in Pensacola: the governor’s

palace is a large stone building ornamented with a tower, built by the

Spaniards. The town is defended by a large stockado fortress, the plan

a tetragon with salient angles at each corner, where is a block-house

or round tower, one story higher than the curtains, where are light

cannon mounted: it is constructed of wood. Within this fortess is the

council chamber; here the records are kept, houses for the officers,

and barracks for the accommodation of the garrison, arsenal, magazine,

&c. The secretary resides in a spacious, neat building: there are

several merchants and gentlemen of other professions, who have

respectable and convenient buildings in the town.

There were growing on the sand hills, environing Pensacola, several

curious non-described plants; particularly one of the verticillate

order, about eighteen inches in height: the flowers, which formed loose

spikes, were large and of a fine scarlet colour; but not having time to

examine the fructification, or collect good specimens, am ignorant of

what order or genus it belongs to. And in the level wet savannas grew

plentifully a new and very elegant species of Saracinia (Saracinia

lacunosa); the leaves of this plant, which are twelve or fourteen

inches in length, stand nearly erect, are round, tubular and

ventricose—but not ridged with longitudinal angles or prominent nerves,

as the leaves of the Saracinia flava are; the aperture at top may be

shut up by a cap or lid, of a helmet form, which is an appendage of the

leaf, turning over the orifice in that singular manner; the ventricose,

or inflated part of the leaf, which is of a pale, but vivid green

colour, is beautifully ornamented with rose coloured studs or blisters,

and the inner surface curiously inscribed, or variegated with crimson

veins or fibres. It was past the time for flowering, but the plant in

any situation is a very great curiosity.

Next morning early we arose from our hard sandy sea-beaten couch, being

disturbed the whole night by the troublesome musquitoes; set sail, and

before night returned safe to the city of Mobile.

CHAPTER VII.

The next day after my return to Mobile, I found myself very ill, and

not a little alarmed by an excessive pain in my head, attended with a

high fever; this disorder soon settled in my eyes, nature pursuing that

way to expel the malady, causing a most painful defluxion of pellucid,

corrosive water; notwithstanding, I next day set off on board a large

trading boat, the property of a French gentleman, and commanded by him

(he being general interpreter for the Chactaw nation), on his return to

his plantations, on the banks of Pearl river: our bark was large, well

equiped for sailing, and manned with three stout Negroes, to row in

case of necessity. We embarked in the evening, and came to about six

miles below the town, at a pleasant farm, the master of which (who was

a Frenchman) entertained us in a very polite and friendly manner. The

wind favourable, next morning early we set sail again, and having made

extraordinary way, about noon came up abreast of a high steep bluff, or

perpendicular cliff of high land, touching on the bay of the west

coast, where we went on shore, to give liberty to the slaves to rest

and refresh themselves. In the mean time I accompanied the captain on

an excursion into the spacious level forests, which spread abroad from

the shore to a great distance back; observed vestiges of an ancient

fortress and settlement, and there yet remain a few pieces of iron

cannon; but what principally attracted my notice, was three vast iron

pots or kettles, each of many hundred gallons contents: upon enquiry,

my associate informed me they were for the purpose of boiling tar to

pitch, there being vast forests of Pine trees in the vicinity of this

place. In Carolina the inhabitants pursue a different method; when they

design to make pitch, they dig large holes in the ground, near the tar

kiln, which they line with a thick coat of good clay, into which they

conduct a sufficient quantity of tar, and set it on fire, suffering it

to flame and evaporate a length of time sufficient to convert it into

pitch, and when cool, lade it into barrels, and so on until they have

consumed all the tar, or made a sufficient quantity of pitch for their

purpose.

After re-imbarking, and leaving this bluff a few miles, we put into

shore again, and came to a farm house, a little distance from the

water, where we supplied ourselves with Corn meal, Batatas, bacon, &c.

The French gentleman (proprietor of the plantation) was near eighty

years old, his hair almost white with age, yet he appeared active,

strong and muscular; and his mother who was present, was one hundred

and five years old, active and cheerful, her eyes seemed as brisk and

sparkling as youth, but she was of a diminutive size, not half the

stature and weight of her son: it was now above fifty years since she

came into America from old France.

Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida, the Cherokee Country, the Extensive Territories of the Muscogulges, or Creek Confederacy, and the Country of the Chactaws. Containing an Account of the Soil and Natural Productions of Those Regions, Together With Observations on the Manners of the Indians. · 第 12 / 14 章

Of vegetable productions observed in this region, were the following,