I embarked again, proceeding down the bay, and in the evening doubled

the west point or cape of the bay, being a promontory of the main,

between which and Dauphin island, we entered the channel Oleron. From

this time, until we arrived at this gentleman’s habitation on Pearl

river, I was incapable of making any observations, for my eyes could

not bear the light, as the least ray admitted seemed as the piercing of

a sword: and by the time I had arrived at Pearl river, the excruciating

pain had rendered me almost frantic and stupified for want of sleep, of

which I was totally deprived; and the corroding water, every few

minutes, streaming from my eyes, had stripped the skin off my face, in

the same manner as scalding water would have done. I continued three

days with this friendly Frenchman, who tried every remedy, that he or

his family could recollect, to administer relief, but to no purpose. My

situation was now become dangerous, and I expected to sink under the

malady, as I believe my friends here did. At last the man informed me,

on Pearl island, about twelve miles distance, resided an English

gentleman, who had a variety of medicines, and if I chose to go to him

he would take me there. I accordingly bid adieu to this hospitable

family, and set off with him in a convenient boat; before night arrived

at Mr. Rumsey’s, who received me kindly, and treated me with the utmost

humanity, during a stay of four or five weeks. The night however after

my arrival here I sincerely thought would be my last, and my torments

were so extreme as to desire it: having survived this tedious night, I

in some degree recovered my senses, and asked Mr. Rumsey if he had any

Cantharides; he soon prepared a blister plaister for me, which I

directed to be placed betwixt my shoulders; this produced the desired

relief, and more than answered my expectation, for it had not been

there a quarter of an hour before I fell asleep, and remained so a

whole day, when I awoke entirely relieved from pain, my senses in

perfect harmony and mind composed. I do not know how to express myself

on this occasion; all was peace and tranquillity: although I had my

sight imperfectly, yet my body seemed but as a light shadow, and my

existence as a pleasing delirium, for I sometimes doubted of its

reality. I however from that moment began to mend, until my health was

perfectly restored; but it was several weeks before I could expose my

eyes to open day light, and at last I found my left eye considerably

injured, which suffered the greatest pain and weight of the disease.

As soon as I acquired strength to walk about, and bear the least

impression of open day light on my eyes, I made frequent, indeed I may

say daily excursions in and about this island, strolling through its

awful shades, venerable groves and sublime forests, consisting of the

Live Oaks and Magnolia grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Olea Americana,

Fagus sylvatica, Laur. Sassafras, Quercus hemispherica, Telea,

Liquidambar styraciflua, Morus, Gleditsia, Callicarpa, Halesia, &c.

The island is six or seven miles in length, and four or five in width,

including the salt marshes and plains, which invest it on every side, I

believe we may only except a narrow strand at the South end of it,

washed by Lake Borgone at the Regullets, which is a promontory composed

of banks of seashells and sand cast up by the force of winds, and the

surf of the lake; these shells are chiefly a small species of white

clam shells, called les coquilles. Here are a few shrubs growing on

these shelly heights, viz. Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, Myrica,

Zanthoxylon clava Herculis, Juniperus Americana, Lysium salsum;

together with several new genera and species of the herbaceous and

suffruticose tribes, Croton, Stillingia, &c. but particularly a species

of Mimosa (Mimosa virgata), which in respect of the elegancy of its

pinnated leaves, cannot be exceeded by any of that celebrated family.

It is a perennial plant, sending up many nearly erect stems, from the

root or source; these divide themselves into many ascendant slender

rods like branches, which are ornamented with double pinnated leaves,

of a most delicate formation. The compound flowers, are of a pale,

greenish yellow, collected together in a small oblong head, upon a long

slender peduncle, the legumes are large, lunated and flat, placed in a

spiral or contorted manner, each containing several hard compressed

seeds, or little beans.

The interior and by far the greater part of the island consists of high

land; the soil to appearance a heap of sea sand in some places, with an

admixture of sea shells; this soil, notwithstanding its sandy and

steril appearance, when divested of its natural vegetative attire, has,

from what cause I know not, a continual resource of fertility within

itself: the surface of the earth, after being cleared of its original

vegetable productions, exposed a few seasons to the sun, winds and

tritrurations of agriculture, appears scarcely any thing but heaps of

white sand, yet it produces Corn (Zea), Indigo, Batatas, Beans, Peas,

Cotton, Tobacco, and almost every sort of esculent vegetable, in a

degree of luxuriancy very surprising and unexpected, year after year,

incessantly, without any addition of artificial manure or compost:

there is indeed a foundation of strong adhesive clay, consisting of

strata of various colours, which I discovered by examining a well,

lately dug in Mr. Rumsey’s yard; but lying at a great depth under the

surface, the roots of small shrubs and herbage, cannot reach near to

it, or receive any benefit, unless we may suppose, that ascending fumes

or exhalations, from this bed of clay, may have a vivific nutritive

quality, and be received by the fibres of the roots, or being condensed

in the atmosphere by nocturnal chills, fall with dews upon the leaves

and twigs of these plants, and there absorbed, become nutritive or

exhilerating to them.

Besides the native forest trees and shrubs already noted, manured fruit

trees arrive in this island to the utmost degree of perfection, as

Pears, Peaches, Figs, Grape Vines, Plumbs &c.; of the last mentioned

genus, there is a native species grows in this island, which produces

their large oblong crimson fruit in prodigious abundance; the fruit

though of a most enticing appearance, is rather too tart, yet agreeable

eating, at sultry noon, in this burning climate, it affords a most

delicious and reviving marmalade, when preserved in sugar, and makes

excellent tarts; the tree grows about twelve feet high, the top

spreading, the branches spiny and the leaves broad, nervous, serrated,

and terminating with a subulated point.

My eyes having acquired sufficient strength to endure the open

day-light, I set off from Pearl island, for Manchac on the Mississippi,

in a handsome large boat with three Negroes to navigate her. Leaving

the friendly Mr. Rumsey’s seat on Pearl Island, we descended a creek

from the landing near his house; this creek led us about a mile,

winding through salt sedgy marshes, into Lake Pontchartrain, along

whose North shores we coasted about twenty miles, having low, reedy

marshes, on our starboard: these marshes were very extensive between us

and the far distant high forests on the main: at evening the shore

became bolder, with sandy elevations, affording a few dwarf Oaks,

Zanthoxylon, Myrica and Rham. frangula. We came to in a little bay,

kindled a fire, and after supper betook ourselves to repose; our

situation open, airy and cool, on clean sand banks; we rested quietly,

though sometimes roused by alarms from the crocodiles, which are here

in great numbers, and of an enormous bulk and strength.

Next day early we got under way, pursuing our former course, nearly

Westward, keeping the North shore several leagues. Immediately back of

this high sandy strand, (which is cast up by the beating surf and

winds, setting from seaward, across the widest part of the lake) the

ground suddenly falls, and becomes extensive flat Cypress swamps, the

sources of creeks and rivers, which run into the lake, or Pearl River,

or at other places; the high forests of the main now gradually

approaching the lake, advance up to the very shore, where we find

houses, plantations and new settlements: we came to at one of them

charmingly situated, set sail again, and came up to the mouth of the

beautiful Taensapaoa, which takes that name from a nation of Indians,

who formerly possessed the territories lying on its banks, which are

fertile and delightful regions. This river is narrow at its entrance,

but deep, and said to be navigable for large barks and perriauguas,

upwards of fifty miles: just within its capes, on the leeward shore,

are heights, or a group of low hills (composed of the small clam

shells, called les coquilles) which gradually depress as we retreat

back from the river, and the surface of the land is more level; these

shells dissolving and mixing with the surface, render the vegetative

mould black, rich, and productive. Here are a few habitations, and some

fields cleared and cultivated; but the inhabitants neglect agriculture;

and generally employ themselves in hunting, and fishing: we however

furnished ourselves here with a sufficiency of excellent Batatas. I

observed no new vegetable productions, except a species of Cleome

(Cleome lupinifolia); this plant possesses a very strong scent,

somewhat like Gum Assasetida, notwithstanding which the inhabitants

give it a place in soups and and sauces.

From Taensapaoa, we still coasted westward, three or four miles, to the

straits that communicate with the lake Maurepas; entering which and

continuing six or eight miles, having low swampy land on each side, the

channel divides, forming an island in the middle of the pass: we took

the right hand channel, which continues three or four miles, when the

channels reunite in full view of the charming lake. We came to at an

elevated point, or promontory on the starboard main shore, it being the

North cape, from whence I enjoyed a very pleasing and complete view of

the beautiful lake Maurepas; entering which next morning, a steady

favourable gale soon wafted us nine or ten miles over to the mouth of

the river Amite; ascended between its low banks; the land on each side

a level swamp, about two feet above the surface of the water,

supporting a thick forest of trees, consisting chiefly of Fraxinus,

Nyssa aquatica, Nyssa multiflora, Cupressus disticha, Quercus phillos,

Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Acer glaucum, Sambucus, Laurus Borbonia,

Carpinus, Ulmus and others. The soil or earth humid, black and rich.

There is scarcely a perceptible current: the water dark, deep, turgid

and stagnate, being from shore to shore covered with a scum or pellicle

of a green and purplish cast, and perpetually throwing up from the

muddy bottom to its surface minute air bladders or bubbles: in short,

these dark loathsome waters, from every appearance seem to be a strong

extract or tincture of the leaves of the trees, herbs and reeds,

arising from the shores, and which almost overspread them, and float on

the surface, insomuch that a great part of these stagnate rivers,

during the summer and autumnal seasons, are constrained to pass under a

load of grass and weeds; which are continually vegetating and spreading

over the surface from the banks, until the rising floods of winter and

spring, rushing down from the main, sweep them away, and purify the

waters. Late in the evening we discovered a narrow ridge of land close

to the river bank, high and dry enough to suffer us to kindle a fire,

and space sufficient to spread our bedding on. But here, fire and smoke

were insufficient to expel the hosts of musquitoes that invested our

camp, and kept us awake during the long and tedious night, so that the

alligators had no chance of taking us napping. We were glad to rise

early in the morning, proceeding up the Amite. The land now gradually

rises, the banks become higher, the soil drier and firmer four or five

feet above the surface of the river; the trees are of an incredible

magnitude, particulary Platanus occidentalis, Fraxinus, Ulmus, Quercus

hemispherica, &c. The Canna Indica grows here in surprising luxuriance,

presenting a glorious show; the stem rises six, seven and nine feet

high, terminating upwards with spikes of scarlet flowers.

Now having advanced near thirty miles up the Amite, we arrived at a

very large plantation, the property of a Scotch gentleman, who received

me with civility, entreating me to reside with him; but being impatient

to get to the river, and pleading the necessity of prosecuting my

travels with alacrity, on account of the season being so far advanced,

I was permited to proceed, and set off next morning. Still ascending

the Amite about twenty miles farther, and arrived at the forks, where

the Iberville comes in on the left hand, ascending which a little way,

we soon came to the landing, where are ware-houses for dispositing

merchandize, this being the extremity of navigation up this canal, and

here small vessels load and unload. From this place to Manchac, on the

banks of the Mississippi, just above the mouth of the canal, is nine

miles by land; the road straight, spacious, and perfectly level, under

the shadow of a grand forest; the trees of the first order in magnitude

and beauty, as Magnolia grandiflora, Liriodendron tulipifera, Platanus,

Juglans nigra, Fraxinus excelsior, Morus rubra, Laurus sassafras,

Laurus Borbonia, Telea, Liquidambar styraciflua, &c.

At evening arrived at Manchac, when I directed my steps to the banks of

the Mississippi, where I stood for a time as it were fascinated by the

magnificence of the great sire[54] of rivers.

The depth of the river here, even in this season, at its lowest ebb is

astonishing, not less than forty fathoms; and the width about a mile or

somewhat less: but it is not expansion of surface alone that strikes us

with ideas of magnificence; the altitude and theatrical ascents of its

pensile banks, the steady course of the mighty flood, the trees, high

forests, even every particular object, as well as societies, bear the

stamp of superiority and excellence; all unite or combine in exhibiting

a prospect of the grand sublime. The banks of the river at Manchac,

though frequently overflowed by the vernal inundations, are fifty feet

perpendicular height above the surface of the water (by which the

channel at those times must be about two hundred and ninety feet deep);

and these precipices being an accumulation of the sediment of muddy

waters, annually brought down with the floods, of a light loamy

consistence, continually cracking and parting, present to view deep

yawning chasms, in time split off, as the active perpetual current

undermines, and the mighty masses of earth tumble headlong into the

river, whose impetuous current sweeps away and lodges them elsewhere.

There is yet visible some remains of a high artificial bank, in front

of the buildings of the town, formerly cast up by the French, to resist

the inundations, but found to be ineffectual, and now in part tumbled

down the precipice: as the river daily encroaches on the bluff, some of

the habitations are in danger, and must be very soon removed or

swallowed up in the deep gulph of waters. A few of the buildings that

have been established by the English, since taking possession of the

colony, are large and commodious, particularly the warehouses of

Messrs. Swanson & Co. Indian traders and merchants.

The Spaniards have a small fortress and garrison on the point of land

below the Iberville, close by the banks of the river, which has a

communication with Manchac, by a slender narrow wooden bridge across

the channel of Iberville, supported on wooden pillars, and not a bow

shot from the habitations of Manchac. The Iberville in the summer

season is dry, and its bed twelve or fifteen feet above the surface of

the Mississipi; but in the winter and spring has a great depth of

water, and a very rapid stream which flows into the Amite, thence down

through the lakes into the bay of Pearls to the ocean.

Having recommendations to the inhabitants of Batonrouge, now called New

Richmond, more than forty miles higher up the river, one of these

gentlemen being present at Manchac, gave me a friendly and polite

invitation to accompany him on his return home. A pleasant morning; we

sat off after breakfast, well accommodated in a handsome convenient

boat, rowed by three blacks. Two miles above Manchac we put into shore

at Alabama: this Indian village is delightfully situated on several

swelling green hills, gradually ascending from the verge of the river:

the people are a remnant of the ancient Alabama nation, who inhabited

the East arm of the great Mobile river, which bears their name to this

day, now possessed by the Creeks or Muscogulges, who conquered the

former.

My friend having purchased some baskets and earthen-ware, the

manufactures of the people, we left the village, and proceeded twelve

miles higher up the river, landed again at a very large and well

cultivated plantation, where we lodged all night. Observed growing in a

spacious garden adjacent to the house, many useful as well as curious

exotics, particularly the delicate and sweet Tube-rose (Polyanthus

tuberosa): it grows here in the open garden, the flowers were very

large and abundant on the stems, which were five, six or seven feet

high, but I saw none here having double flowers. In one corner of the

garden was a pond or marsh, round about which grew luxuriantly the

Scotch grass (Panicum hirtellum, gramen panicum maximum, spica divisa,

aristis armatum, Sloan, Jam. Cat. p. 30): the people introduced this

valuable grass from the West India islands: they mow or reap it at any

time, and feed it green to cows or horses; it is nourishing food for

all cattle. The Humble plant (Mimosa pudica) grows here five or six

feet high, rambling like Brier vines over the fences and shrubs, all

about the garden. The people here say it is an indigenous plant, but

this I doubt, as it is not seen growing wild in the forests and fields,

and it differs in no respect from that which we protect in green houses

and stoves, except in the extent and luxuriancy of its branches, which

may be owing to the productive virgin mould and temperature of the

climate. They however pay no attention to its culture, but rather

condemn it as a noxious troublesome weed, for wherever it gets footing,

it spreads itself by its seed in so great abundance as to oppress and

even extirpate more useful vegetables.

Next day we likewise visited several delightful and spacious

plantations on the banks of the river, during our progress upwards: in

the evening arrived at my friend’s habitation, a very delightful villa,

with extensive plantations of Corn (Zea), Indigo, Cotton and some Rice.

A day or two after our arrival we agreed upon a visit to Point Coupè, a

flourishing French settlement on the Spanish shore of the Mississippi.

Early next morning we set off in a neat Cypress boat with three oars,

proceeding up the river; and by night got to a large plantation near

the White cliffs, now called Brown’s cliffs, in honour of the late

governor of West Florida, now of the Bahama Islands, who is proprietor

of a large district of country, lying on and adjacent to the Cliffs. At

the time of my residence with Mr. Rumsey at Pearl island, governor

Brown, then on his passage to his government of the Bahamas, paid Mr.

Rumsey a visit, who politely introduced me to his excellency,

acquainting him with my character and pursuits: he desired me to

explore his territory, and give him my opinion of the quality of the

White plains.

August 27th, 1777, having in readiness horses well equipt, early in the

morning we set off for the plains. About a mile from the river we

crossed a deep gully and small rivulet, then immediately entered the

Cane forests, following a straight avenue cut through them, off from

the river, which continued about eight miles, the ground gradually but

imperceptibly rising before us: when at once opened to view expansive

plains, which are a range of native grassy fields of many miles extent,

lying parallel with the river, surrounded and intersected with Cane

brakes and high forests of stately trees; the soil black, extremely

rich and productive, but the virgin mould becomes thinner and less

fertile as it verges on to the plains, which are so barren as scarcely

to produce a bush or even grass, in the middle or highest parts. The

upper stratum or surface of the earth is a whitish clay or chalk, with

veins of sea shells, chiefly of those little clams called les

coquilles, or interspersed with the white earth or clay, so tenacious

and hard as to render it quite sterile, scarcely any vegetable growth

to be seen, except short grass, crustaceous mosses, and some places

quite bare, where it is on the surface, but where it lies from eighteen

inches to two or three feet below, it has the virtue of fertilizing the

virgin mould above, rendering it black, humid, soapy, and incredibly

productive.

I observed two or three scrubby Pine trees or rather dwarf bushes, upon

the highest ridge of these plains, which are viewed here as a

curiosity, there being no Pine forests within several leagues distance

from the banks of this great river, but, on the contrary, seemingly an

endless wilderness of Canes, and the most magnificent forests of the

trees already noted, but particularly Platanus occidentalis,

Liriodendron, Magnolia grandiflora, Liquidambar styraciflua, Juglans

nigra, Juglans exaltata, Telea, Morus rubra, Gleditsia triacanthus,

Laurus Borbonia, and Laurus sassafras; this last grows here to a vast

tree, forty or fifty feet straight trunk; its timber is found to be

very useful, sawn into boards and scantling, or hewn into posts for

building and fencing.

On the more fertile borders of the plains, adjoining the surrounding

forests, are Sideroxylon, Pyrus coronaria, and Strawberry vines

(Fragaria) but no fruit on them; the inhabitants assured me they bore

fruit in their season, very large, of a fine red colour, delicious and

fragrant.

Having made our tour and observations on the White plains, we returned

to the river at the close of the day, and next morning sat off for

Point Coupè: passed under the high painted cliffs, and then set our

course across the Mississippi, which is here near two miles over:

touched at a large island near the middle of the river, being led

there, a little out of our way, in pursuit of a bear crossing from the

main, but he out-swam us, reached the island and made a safe retreat in

the forests entangled with vines; we however pursued him on shore, but

to no purpose. After resting a while we re-embarked and continued our

voyage, coasting the East shore of the island to the upper end; here we

landed again, on an extended projecting point of clean sand and

pebbles, where were to be seen pieces of coal sticking in the gravel

and sand, together with other fragments of the fossil kingdom, brought

down by inundations and lodged there. We observed a large kind of

muscle in the sand; the shell of an oval form, having horns or

protuberances near half an inch in length and as thick as a crow quill,

which I suppose serve the purpose of grapnels to hold their ground

against the violence of the current. Here were great numbers of wild

fowl wading in the shoal water that covers the sandy points, to a vast

distance from the shores: they were geese, brant, gannet, and the great

and beautiful whooping crane (grus alber). Embarked again, doubled the

point of the island and arrived at Point Coupè in the evening.

We made our visit to a French gentleman, an ancient man and wealthy

planter, who, according to the history he favoured us with of his own

life and adventures, must have been very aged; his hair was of a silky

white, yet his complexion was florid and constitution athletic. He said

that soon after he came to America, with many families of his

countrymen, they ascended the river to the Cliffs of the Natches, where

they sat down, being entertained by the natives; and under cover of a

strong fortress and garrison, established a settlement, and by

cultivating the land and forming plantations, in league and friendship

with the Indians, in a few years they became a populous, rich and

growing colony; when through the imprudent and tyrannical conduct of

the commandant towards the Natches, the ancients of the country, a very

powerful and civilized nation of red men, who were sovereigns of the

soil, and possessed the country round about them, they became tired of

these comers, and exasperated at their cruelty and licentiousness, at

length determined to revenge themselves of such inhumanity and

ingratitude, secretly conspired their destruction, and their measures

were so well concerted with other Indian tribes, that if it had not

been for the treachery of one of their princesses, with whom the

commander was in favour (for by her influence her nation attempted the

destruction of the settlement, before their auxilaries joined them,

which afforded an opportunity for some few of the settlers to escape),

they would have fully accomplished their purpose. However the

settlement was entirely broken up, most of the inhabitants being

slaughtered in one night, and the few who escaped betook themselves to

their canoes, descending the river until they arrived at this place,

where they established themselves again; and this gentleman had only

time and opportunity to take into his boat one heifer calf, which he

assured us was the mother of the numerous herds he now possesses,

consisting of many hundred head. Here is now a very respectable

village, defended by a strong fortress and garrison of Spaniards, the

commander being governor of the district.

The French here are able, ingenious and industrious planters: they live

easy and plentifully, and are far more regular and commendable in the

enjoyment of their earnings than their neighbours the English: their

dress of their own manufactures, well wrought and neatly made up, yet

not extravagant or foppish; manners and conversation easy, moral and

entertaining.

Next morning we sat off again on our return home, and called by the way

of the Cliffs, which is a perpendicular bank or bluff, rising up out of

the river near one hundred feet above the present surface of the water,

whose active current sweeps along by it. From eight or nine feet below

the loamy vegetative mould at top, to within four or five feet of the

water, these cliffs present to view strata of clay, marle and chalk, of

all colours, as brown, red, yellow, white, blue and purple; there are

separate strata of these various colours, as well as mixed or

particoloured: the lowest stratum next the water is exactly of the same

black mud or rich soil of the adjacent low Cypress swamps, above and

below the bluff; and here in the cliffs we see vast stumps of Cypress

and other trees, which at this day grow in these low, wet swamps, and

which range on a level with them. These stumps are sound, stand

upright, and seem to be rotted off about two or three feet above the

spread of their roots; their trunks, limbs, &c. lie in all directions

about them. But when these swampy forests were growing, and by what

cause they were cut off and overwhelmed by the various strata of earth,

which now rise near one hundred feet above, at the brink of the cliffs,

and two or three times that height but a few hundred yards back, are

enquiries perhaps not easily answered. The swelling heights rising

gradually over and beyond this precipice are now adorned with high

forests of stately Magnolia, Liquidambar, Fagus, Quercus, Laurus,

Morus, Juglans, Telea, Halesia, Æsculus, Callicarpa, Liriodendron, &c.

Arrived in the evening at the plantation below the Cliffs, and next day

got safe back to my friend’s habitation.

Observed few vegetable productions different from what grow in Carolina

and Georgia; perhaps in the spring and early summer season, here may be

some new plants, particularly in the high forests and ridges, at some

distance from the river: there is however growing in the rich high

lands, near on the banks of the river, which I observed in the

settlement of Baton Rouge, an arborescent aromatic vine, which mounts

to the tops of the highest trees, by twisting or writhing spirally

round them; some of these vines are as thick as a man’s leg, of a soft

spungy texture, and flexible, covered with a Cinnamon coloured bark,

which is highly aromatic or spicy. The large oblong leaves sit opposite

on the branches, and are of a full deep green colour; but its season of

flowering being past, and the seed was scattered, I am entirely

ignorant to what genus it belongs; perhaps it is a non-descript or new

genus. Here is likewise a new and beautiful species of Verbena, with

decumbent branches and lacerated deep green leaves; the branches

terminate with corymbi of violet blue flowers: this pretty plant grows

in old fields where there is a good soil.

The severe disorder in my eyes subverted the plan of my peregrinations,

and contracted the span of my pilgrimage south-westward. This

disappointment affected me very sensibly, but resignation and reason

resuming their empire over my mind, I submitted and determined to

return to Carolina.

Receiving information that the company’s schooner was ready to sail for

Mobile, I embarked on board a trading boat for Manchac, where arriving

in the evening, I took leave next morning of Messrs. Swanson and Co.

and set off for the forks of the Amite, and next day sat sail,

descending the tardy current of the Amite. Observing two bears crossing

the river ahead, though our pieces were ready charged, and the yawl

along side to receive us, we pursued them in vain, they swam swiftly

across and escaped in the forests on the island of Orleans. The breeze

dying away at evening, we came to anchor, and had variety of amusements

at fishing and fowling.

Next day, November 13th 1777, with a steady leading breeze, entered and

sailed over the lake Maurepas, and through the streights into the

Pontchartrain, and continued under sail; but at midnight by keeping too

near the west shore, we ran aground on a sand-bar, where we lay beating

the hard sandy bottom until morning, and our yawl parting from us in

the night, which we never recovered, we were left to the mercy of the

winds and floods, but before noon the wind coming briskly from

North-East, drove the sea into the lake, we got off, made sail again,

and before night passed through the Regullets, entering the ocean

through the bay of Pearls, sailing through the sound betwixt Cat island

and the strand of the continent; passing by the beautiful bay St.

Louis, into which descend many delightful rivers, which flow from the

lower or maritime settlements of the Chactaws or Flat-heads. Continuing

through the sound between the oyster banks and shoals of Ship and Horn

islands, and the high and bold coast of Biloxi on the main, got through

the narrow pass Aux Christians, and soon came up abreast of Isle

Dauphin, betwixt whose shoals and the West Cape of Mobile Bay we got

aground on some sunken oyster banks; but next day a brisk Southerly

wind raised the sea on the coast, which lifted us off again, and

setting sail, shot through the Pass au Oleron, and entering the bay, by

night came to anchor safe again at the city of Mobile.

After having made up my collections of growing roots, seeds and curious

specimens, left them to the care of Messrs. Swanson and M’Gillavry, to

be forwarded to Dr. Fothergill of London. I prepared to set off again

to Augusta in Georgia, through the Creek Nation, the only practicable

way of returning by land, being frustrated of pursuing my intended

route which I had meditated, through the territories of the Siminoles

or Lower Creeks, they being a treacherous people, lying so far from the

eye and controul of the nation with whom they are confederate, that

there had lately been depredations and murders committed by them at the

bay of Apalache, on some families of white people who were migrating

from Georgia, with an intention of settling on the Mobile. Having to

pass the distance of near two hundred miles to the first town of the

nation, through a solitary, uninhabited wilderness, the bloody field of

Schambe, where those contending bands of American bravos, Creeks and

Chactaws, often meet in dire conflict; for the better convenience and

security, I joined company with a caravan of traders, now about setting

off for the nation.

Observed growing in a garden in Mobile, two large trees of the Juglans

pecan, and the Dioscorea bulbifera: this last curious plant bears a

large kidney shaped root, one, two or three at the bosom of the leaves,

several feet from the ground, as they climb up poles or supports set by

their roots; these roots when boiled or roasted are esteemed a pleasant

wholesome food, and taste like the ordinary Yam.

[54] Which is the meaning of the word Mississippi.

CHAPTER VIII.

November 27th, 1777, sat off from Mobile, in a large boat with the

principal trader of the company, and at evening arrived at Taensa,

where were the pack-horsemen with the merchandize, and next morning as

soon as we had our horses in readiness, I took my last leave of Major

Farmer, and left Taensa. Our caravan consisting of between twenty and

thirty horses, sixteen of which were loaded, two pack-horsemen, and

myself, under the direction of Mr. Tap——y the chief trader. One of our

young men was a Mustee Creek, his mother being a Chactaw slave, and his

father a half breed, betwixt a Creek and a white man. I loaded one

horse with my effects, some presents to the Indians, to enable me to

purchase a fresh horse, in case of necessity; for my old trusty slave

which had served me faithfully almost three years, having carried me on

his back at least six thousand miles, was by this time almost worn out,

and I expected every hour he would give up, especially after I found

the manner of these traders’ travelling. They seldom decamp until the

sun is high and hot; each one having a whip made of the toughest

cowskin, they start all at once, the horses having ranged themselves in

regular Indian file, the veteran in the van, and the younger in the

rear; then the chief drives with the crack of his whip, and a whoop or

shriek, which rings through the forests and plains, speaks in Indian,

commanding them to proceed, which is repeated by all the company, when

we start at once, keeping up a brisk and constant trot, which is

incessantly urged and continued as long as the miserable creatures are

able to move forward; and then come to camp, though frequently in the

middle of the afternoon, which is the pleasantest time of the day for

travelling: and every horse has a bell on, which being stopped when we

start in the morning with a twist of grass or leaves, soon shakes out,

and they are never stopped again during the day. The constant ringing

and clattering of the bells, smacking of the whips, whooping and too

frequent cursing these miserable quadrupeds, cause an incessant uproar

and confusion, inexpressibly disagreeable.

After three days travelling in this mad manner, my old servant was on

the point of giving out, and several of the company’s horses were

tired, but were relieved of their burthens by the led horses which

attended for that purpose. I was now driven to disagreeable

extremities, and had no other alternative, but either to leave my horse

in the woods, pay a very extravagant hire for a doubtful passage to the

Nation, or separate myself from my companions, and wait the recovery of

my horse alone: the traders gave me no other comfortable advice in this

dilemma, than that there was a company of traders on the road ahead of

us from the Nation, to Mobile, who had a large gang of led horses with

them for sale, when they should arrive; and expected from the advice

which he had received at Mobile before we set off from thence, that

this company must be very near to us, and probably would be up

tomorrow, or at least in two or three days: and this man condescended

so far as to moderate a little his mode of travelling, that I might

have a chance of keeping up with them until the evening of next day;

besides I had the comfort of observing that the traders and

pack-horsemen carried themselves towards me with evident signs of

humanity and friendship, often expressing sentiments of sympathy, and

saying I must not be left alone to perish in the wilderness.

Although my apprehensions on this occasion, were somewhat tumultuous,

since there was little hope, on the principle of reason, should I be

left alone, of escaping cruel captivity, and perhaps being murdered by

the Chactaws (for the company of traders was my only security, as the

Indians never attack the traders on the road, though they be trading

with nations at enmity with them) yet I had secret hopes of relief and

deliverance, that cheered me, and inspired confidence and peace of

mind.

Now I am come within the atmosphere of the Illicium groves, how

reanimating is the fragrance! every part of this plant above ground

possesses an aromatic scent, but the large stillated pericarp is the

most fragrant part of it, which continually perspires an oleagenous

sweat, as warm and vivific as cloves or mace. I never saw it grow

naturally further North than Lat. 33°, on the Mobile river and its

branches, and but one place in East Florida near Lake George, Lat. 28°.

About the middle of the afternoon, we were joyfully surprised at the

distant prospect of the trading company coming up, and we soon met,

saluting each other several times with a general Indian whoop, or shout

of friendship; then each company came to camp within a few paces of

each other; and before night I struck up a bargain with them for a

handsome strong young horse, which cost me about ten pounds sterling. I

was now constrained to leave my old slave behind, to feed in rich cane

pastures, where he was to remain and recruit until the return of his

new master from Mobile; from whom I extorted a promise to use him

gently, and if possible, not to make a pack-horse of him.

Next morning we decamped, proceeding again on my travels, now alert and

cheerful. Crossed a brisk rivulet ripling over a gravelly bed, and

winding through aromatic groves of the Illicium Floridanum, then gently

descended to the high forests, leaving Deadman’s creek, for at this

creek a white man was found dead, supposed to have been murdered, from

which circumstance it has its name.

A few days before we arrived at the Nation we met a company of

emigrants from Georgia; a man, his wife, a young woman, several young

children and three stout young men, with about a dozen horses loaded

with their property. They informed us their design was to settle on the

Alabama, a few miles above the confluence of the Tombigbe.

Being now near the Nation, the chief trader with another of our company

sat off ahead for his town, to give notice to the Nation, as he said,

of his approach with the merchandize, each of them taking the best

horse they could pick out of the gang, leaving the goods to the conduct

and care of the young Mustee and myself. Early in the evening we came

to the banks of a large deep creek, a considerable branch of the

Alabama: the waters ran furiously, being overcharged with the floods of

rain which had fallen the day before. We discovered immediately that

there was no possibility of crossing it by fording; its depth and

rapidity would have swept our horses, loads and all, instantly from our

sight: my companion, after consideration, said we must make a raft to

ferry over our goods, which we immediately set about, after unloading

our horses and turning them out to range. I undertook to collect dry

canes, and my companion, dry timber or logs and vines to bind them

together: having gathered the necessary materials, and laid them in

order on the brink of the river, ready to work upon, we betook

ourselves to repose, and early next morning sat about building our

raft. This was a novel scene to me, and I could not, until finished and

put to practice, well comprehend how it could possibly answer the

effect desired. In the first place we laid, parallel to each other,

dry, sound trunks of trees, about nine feet in length, and eight or

nine inches diameter, which binding fast together with grape vines and

withs, until we had formed this first floor, about twelve or fourteen

feet in length, we then bound the dry canes in bundles, each near as

thick as a man’s body, with which we formed the upper stratum, laying

them close by the side of each other and binding them fast; after this

manner our raft was constructed. Then having two strong grape vines,

each long enough to cross the river, we fastened one to each end of the

raft, which now being completed, and loading on as much as it would

safely carry, the Indian took the end of one of the vines in his mouth,

plunged into the river and swam over with it, and the vine fixed to the

other end was committed to my charge, to steady the raft and haul it

back again after being unloaded. As soon as he had safe landed and

hauled taught his vine, I pushed off the raft, which he drew over as

quick as possible, I steadying it with my vine: in this manner, though

with inexpressible danger of losing our effects, we ferried all safe

over. The last load, with other articles, contained my property, with

all my clothes, which I stripped off, except my breeches, for they

contained matters of more value and consequence than all the rest of my

property put together; besides I did not choose to expose myself

entirely naked to the alligators and serpents in crossing the flood.

Now seeing all the goods safe over, and the horses at a landing place

on the banks of the river about fifty yards above, I drove them all in

together, when, seeing them safe landed, I plunged in after them, and

being a tollerable swimmer, soon reached the opposite shore. But my

difficulties at this place were not yet at an end, for our horses all

landed just below the mouth of a considerable branch of this river, of

fifteen or twenty feet width, and its perpendicular banks almost as

many feet in height above its swift waters, over which we were obliged

to carry every article of our effects, and this by no other bridge than

a sapling felled across it, which is called a raccoon bridge, and over

this my Indian friend would trip as quick and light as that quadruped,

with one hundred weight of leather on his back, when I was scarcely

able to shuffle myself along over it astride. At last having re-packed

and sat off again, without any material occurrence intervening, in the

evening we arrived at the banks of the great Tallapoose river, and came

to camp under shelter of some Indian cabins, in expansive fields, close

to the river bank, opposite the town of Savannuca. Late in the evening

a young white man, in great haste and seeming confusion, joined our

camp, who immediately related, that being on his journey from

Pensacola, it happened that the very night after we had passed the

company of emigrants, he met them and joined their camp in the evening,

when, just at dark, the Chactaws surrounded them, plundered their camp

and carried all the people off captive, except himself, he having the

good fortune to escape with his horse, though closely pursued.

Next morning very early, though very cold, and the surface of the earth

as hoary as if covered with a fall of snow, the trader standing on the

opposite shore entirely naked except a breech-clout, and encircled by a

company of red men in the like habit, hailed us, and presently, with

canoes, brought us all over with the merchandize, and conducted us safe

to the town of Mucclasse, a mile or two distant.

The next day was a day of rest and audience: the following was devoted

to feasting, and the evening concluded in celebrating the nuptials of

the young Mustee with a Creek girl of Mucclasse, daughter of the chief

and sister to our trader’s wife. The trader’s house and stores formed a

complete square, after the mode of the habitations of the Muscogulges,

that is, four oblong buildings of equal dimensions, two opposite to

each other, encompassing an area of about a quarter of an acre; on one

side of this a fence enclosed a yard of near an acre of ground, and at

one of the farther corners of which a booth or pavilion was formed of

green boughs, having two Laurel trees planted in front (Magnolia

grandiflora). This was the secret nuptial chamber. Dancing, music and

feasting continued the forepart of the night, and towards morning the

happy couple privately withdrew, and continued alone all the next day,

no one presuming to approach the sacred, mysterious thalame.

The trader obliged me with his company on a visit to the Alabama, an

Indian town at the confluence of the two fine rivers, the Tallapoose

and Coosau, which here resign their names to the great Alabama, where

are to be seen traces of the ancient French fortress, Thoulouse; here

are yet lying, half buried in the earth, a few pieces of ordnance, four

and six pounders. I observed, in a very thriving condition, two or

three very large apple trees, planted here by the French. This is,

perhaps, one of the most eligible situations for a city in the world; a

level plain between the conflux of two majestic rivers, which are

exactly of equal magnitude in appearance, each navigable for vessels

and perriauguas at least five hundred miles above it, and spreading

their numerous branches over the most fertile and delightful regions,

many hundred miles before we reach their sources in the Apalachian

mountains.

Stayed all night at Alabama, where we had a grand entertainment at the

public square, with music and dancing, and returned next day to

Mucclasse, where being informed of a company of traders about setting

off from Tuckabatche for Augusta, I made a visit to that town to know

the truth of it, but on my arrival there they were gone, but being

informed of another caravan who were to start from the Ottasse town in

two or three weeks time, I returned to Mucclasse in order to prepare

for my departure.

On my arrival, I was not a little surprised at a tragical revolution in

the family of my friend the trader, his stores shut up, and guarded by

a party of Indians: in a few minutes however, the whole affair was

related to me. It appeared that this son of Adonis, had been detected

in an amorous intrigue, with the wife of a young chief, the day after

his arrival: the chief was out on a hunt, but arrived next day, who

upon information of the affair, the fact being confirmed, he with his

friends and kindred resolved to exact legal satisfaction, which in this

case is cutting off both ears of the delinquent, close to the head,

which is called cropping. This being determined upon, he took the most

secret and effectual methods to effect his purpose. About a dozen young

Indian fellows conducted by their chief (the injured husband), having

provided and armed themselves with knotty cudgels of green Hickory,

which they concealed under their mantles, in the dusk of the evening

paid a pretended friendly visit to the trader at his own house, when

the chief feigning a private matter of business, took him aside in the

yard; then whistling through his fingers (the signal preconcerted) he

was instantly surrounded, knocked down, and then stripped to his skin,

and beaten with their knotty bludgeons; however he had the subtilty to

feign himself speechless before they really killed him, which he

supposed was their intention: when he had now lain for dead, the

executioner drew out his knife with an intention of taking off his

ears; this small respite gave him time to reflect a little; when he

instantly sprang up, ran off, leaped the fence, and had the good

fortune to get into a dark swamp, overgrown with vines and thickets,

where he miraculously eluded the earnest researches of his enemies, and

finally made a safe retreat to the house of his father-in-law, the

chief of the town, throwing himself under his protection, who gave his

word that he would do him all the favour that lay in his power. This

account I had from his own month, who hearing of my return, the next

morning after my arrival, he sent a trusty messenger, by whom I found

means of access to him. He farther informed me, that there had been a

council of the chiefs of the town convened, to deliberate on the

affair, and their final determination was that he must lose his ears,

or forfeit all his goods, which amounted to upwards of one thousand

pounds sterling, and even that forfeiture would not save his ears,

unless Mr. Golphin interposed in his behalf; and after all the injured

Indian declares that he will have his life. He entreated me with tears

to make what speed I could to Silver Bluff, represent his dangerous

situation to Mr. Golphin, and solicit that gentleman’s most speedy and

effectual interference; which I assured him I would undertake.

Now having all things prepared for my departure, early in the morning,

after taking leave of my distressed friend the trader of Mucclasse, I

sat off; passed through continued plantations and Indian towns on my

way up the Tallapoose river, being every where treated by the

inhabitants with marks of friendship, even as though I had been their

countryman and relation. Called by the way at the beautiful town of

Coolome, where I tarried some time with Mr. Germany the chief trader of

the town, an elderly gentleman, but active, cheerful and very

agreeable, who received and treated me with the utmost civility and

friendship: his wife is a Creek woman, of a very amiable and worthy

character and disposition, industrious, prudent and affectionate; and

by her he had several children, whom he is desirous to send to Savanna

or Charleston, for their education, but cannot prevail on his wife to

consent to it; this affair affects him very sensibly, for he has

accumulated a pretty fortune by his industry and commendable conduct.

Leaving Coolome, I re-crossed the river at Tuccabache, an ancient and

large town, thence continued up the river, and at evening arrived at

Attasse, where I continued near a week, waiting the preparations of the

traders, with whom I was to join in company to Augusta.

The next day after my arrival, I was introduced to the ancient chiefs,

at the public square or areopagus; and in the evening, in company with

the traders, who are numerous in this town, repaired to the great

rotunda, where were assembled the greatest number of ancient venerable

chiefs and warriors that I had ever beheld: we spent the evening and

great part of the night together, in drinking Cassine and smoking

Tobacco. The great council house or rotunda is appropriated to much the

same purpose as the public square, but more private, and seems

particularly dedicated to political affairs; women and youth are never

admitted; and I suppose it is death for a female to presume to enter

the door, or approach within its pale. It is a vast conical building or

circular dome, capable of accomodating many hundred people; constructed

and furnished within, exactly in the same manner as those of the

Cherokees already described, but much larger than any I had seen of

them: there are people appointed to take care of it, to have it daily

swept clean, to provide canes for fuel or to give light.

As their vigils and manner of conducting their vespers and mystical

fire in this rotunda, are extremely singular, and altogether different

from the customs and usages of any other people, I shall proceed to

describe them. In the first place, the governor or officer who has the

management of this business, with his servants attending, orders the

black drink to be brewed, which is a decoction or infusion of the

leaves and tender shoots of the Cassine: this is done under an open

shed or pavilion, at twenty or thirty yards distance, directly opposite

the door of the council-house. Next he orders bundles of dry canes to

be brought in: these are previously split and broken in pieces to about

the length of two feet, and then placed obliquely crossways upon one

another on the floor, forming a spiral circle round about the great

centre pillar, rising to a foot or eighteen inches in height from the

ground; and this circle spreading as it proceeds round and round, often

repeated from right to left, every revolution increases its diameter,

and at length extends to the distance of ten or twelve feet from the

centre, more or less, according to the length of time the assembly or

meeting is to continue. By the time these preparations are

accomplished, it is night, and the assembly have taken their seats in

order. The exterior extremity or outer end of the spiral circle takes

fire and immediately rises into a bright flame (but how this is

effected I did not plainly apprehend; I saw no person set fire to it;

there might have been fire left on the earth, however I neither saw nor

smelt fire or smoke until the blaze instantly ascended upwards), which

gradually and slowly creeps round the centre pillar, with the course of

the sun, feeding on the dry canes, and affords a cheerful, gentle and

sufficient light until the circle is consumed, when the council breaks

up. Soon after this illumination takes place, the aged chiefs and

warriors being seated on their cabins or sophas, on the side of the

house opposite the door, in three classes or ranks, rising a little,

one above or behind the other; and the white people and red people of

confederate towns in the like order on the left hand; a transverse

range of pillars, supporting a thin clay wall about breast high,

separates them: the king’s cabin or seat is in front; the next to the

back of it the head warrior’s; and the third or last accommodates the

young warriors, &c. The great war chief’s seat or place is on the same

cabin with, and immediately to the left hand of the king, and next to

the white people, and to the right hand of the mico or king the most

venerable head men and warriors are seated. The assembly being now

seated in order, and the house illuminated, two middle-aged men, who

perform the office of slaves or servants, pro tempore, come in together

at the door, each having very large conch shells full of black drink,

advancing with slow, uniform and steady steps, their eyes or

countenances lifted up, singing very low but sweetly, they come within

six on eight paces of the king’s and white people’s cabins, when they

stop together, and each rests his shell on a tripos or little table,

but presently takes it up again, and, bowing very low, advances

obsequiously, crossing or intersecting each other about midway: he who

rested his shell before the white people now stands before the king,

and the other who stopped before the king stands before the white

people; when each presents his shell, one to the king and the other to

the chief of the white people, and as soon as he raises it to his

mouth, the slave utters or sings two notes, each of which continues as

long as he has breath, and as long as these notes continue, so long

must the person drink, or at least keep the shell to his mouth. These

two long notes are very solemn, and at once strike the imagination with

a religious awe or homage to the Supreme, sounding somewhat like

a-hoo—ojah and a-lu—yah. After this manner the whole assembly are

treated, as long as the drink and light continue to hold out, and as

soon as the drinking begins, tobacco and pipes are brought. The skin of

a wild cat or young tyger stuffed with tobacco is brought, and laid at

the king’s feet, with the great or royal pipe beautifully adorned; the

skin is usually of the animals of the king’s family or tribe, as the

wild cat, otter, bear, rattle-snake, &c. A skin of tobacco is likewise

brought and cast at the feet of the white chief of the town, and from

him it passes from one to another to fill their pipes from, though each

person has besides his own peculiar skin of tobacco. The king or chief

smokes first in the great pipe a few whiffs, blowing it off

ceremoniously, first towards the sun, or as it is generally supposed to

the Great Spirit, for it is puffed upwards, next towards the four

cardinal points, then towards the white people in the house; then the

great pipe is taken from the hand of the mico by a slave, and presented

to the chief white man, and then to the great war chief, whence it

circulates through the rank of head men and warriors, then returns to

the king. After this each one fills his pipe from his own or his

neighbour’s skin.

The great or public square generally stands alone, in the centre and

highest part of the town: it consists of four-square or cubical

buildings, or houses of one story, uniform, and of the same dimensions,

so situated as to form an exact tetragon, encompassing an area of half

an acre of ground, more or less, according to the strength or largeness

of the town, or will of the inhabitants: there is a passage or avenue

at each corner of equal width: each building is constructed of a wooden

frame fixed strongly in the earth, the walls filled in and neatly

plaistered with clay mortar; close on three sides, that is the back and

two ends, except within about two feet of the wall plate or eves, which

is left open for the purpose of a window and to admit a free passage of

the air; the front or side next to the area is quite open like a

piazza. One of these buildings which is properly the council house,

where the mico, chiefs, and wariors, with the citizens who have

business, or choose to repair thither, assemble every day in council,

to hear, decide and rectify all grievances, complaints and contentions,

arising betwixt the citizens; give audience to ambassadors, and

strangers, hear news and talks from confederate towns, allies or

distant nations; consult about the particular affairs of the town, as

erecting habitations for new citizens, or establishing young families,

concerning agriculture, &c. This building is somewhat different from

the other three: it is closely shut up on three sides, that is, the

back and two ends, and besides, a partition wall longitudinally from

end to end divides it into two apartments, the back part totally dark,

only three small arched apertures or holes opening into it from the

front apartment or piazza, and little larger than just to admit a man

to crawl in upon his hands and knees. This secluded place appears to me

to be designed as a sanctuary[55] dedicated to religion or rather

priest craft; for here are deposited all the sacred things, as the

physic pot, rattles, chaplets of deer’s hoofs and other apparatus of

conjuration; and likewise the calumet or great pipe of peace, the

imperial standard, or eagle’s tail, which is made of the feathers of

the white eagle’s tail[56] curiously formed and displayed like an open

fan on a sceptre or staff, as white and clean as possible when

displayed for peace, but when for war, the feathers are painted or

tinged with vermilion. The piazza or front of this building, is equally

divided into three apartments, by two transverse walls or partitions,

about breast high, each having three orders or ranges of seats or

cabins stepping one above and behind the other, which accommodate the

senate and audience, in the like order as observed in the rotunda. The

other three buildings which compose the square, are alike furnished

with three ranges of cabins or sophas, and serve for a banqueting

house, to shelter and accommodate the audience and spectators at all

times, particularly at feasts or public entertainments, where all

classes of citizens resort day and night in the summer or moderate

season; the children and females however are seldom or never seen in

the public square.

The pillars and walls of the houses of the square were decorated with

various paintings and sculptures; which I suppose to be hieroglyphic,

and as an historic legendary of political and sacerdotal affairs: but

they are extremely picturesque or caricature, as men in variety of

attitudes, some ludicrous enough, others having the head of some kind

of animal, as those of a duck, turkey, bear, fox, wolf, buck, &c. and

again those kind of creatures are represented having the human head.

These designs were not ill executed; the outlines bold, free and well

proportioned. The pillars supporting the front or piazza of the council

house of the square, were ingeniously formed in the likeness of vast

speckled serpents, ascending upwards; the Ottasses being of the snake

family or tribe. At this time the town was fasting, taking medicine,

and I think I may say praying, to avert a grievous calamity of

sickness, which had lately afflicted them, and laid in the grave

abundance of their citizens. They fast seven or eight days, during

which time they eat or drink nothing but a meagre gruel, made of a

little corn-flour and water; taking at the same time by way of medicine

or physic, a strong decoction of the roots of the Iris versicolor,

which is a powerful cathartic: they hold this root in high estimation,

every town cultivates a little plantation of it having a large

artificial pond, just without the town, planted and almost overgrown

with it, where they usually dig clay for pottery, and mortar and

plaster for their buildings, and I observed where they had lately been

digging up this root.

In the midst of a large oblong square adjoining this town, (which was

surrounded with a low bank or terrace) is standing a high pillar, round

like a pin or needle; it is about forty feet in height, and between two

and three feet in diameter at the earth, gradually tapering upwards to

a point; it is one piece of pine wood, and arises from the centre of a

low, circular, artificial hill, but it leans a little to one side. I

enquired of the Indians and traders what it was designed for, who

answered they knew not: the Indians said that their ancestors found it

in the same situation, when they first arrived and possessed the

country, adding, that the red men or Indians, then the possessors, whom

they vanquished, were as ignorant as themselves concerning it, saying

that their ancestors likewise found it standing so. This monument,

simple as it is, may be worthy the observations of a traveller, since

it naturally excites at least the following queries: for what purpose

was it designed? its great antiquity and incorruptibility—what method

or machines they employed to bring it to the spot, and how they raised

it erect? There is no tree or species of the pine, whose wood, i. e. so

large a portion of the trunk, is supposed to be incorruptible, exposed

in the open air to all weathers, but the long-leaved pine (Pin.

palustris), and there is none growing within twelve or fifteen miles of

this place, that tree being naturally produced only on the high, dry,

barren ridges, where there is a sandy soil and grassy wet savannas. A

great number of men uniting their strength, probably carried it to the

place on handspikes, or some such contrivance.

On the Sabbath day before I set off from this place, I could not help

observing the solemnity of the town, the silence and the retiredness of

the red inhabitants; but a very few of them were to be seen, the doors

of their dwellings shut, and if a child chanced to stray out, it was

quickly drawn in doors again. I asked the meaning of this, and was

immediately answered, that it being the white people’s beloved day or

Sabbath, the Indians kept it religiously sacred to the Great Spirit.

Last night was clear and cold, wind North West, and this morning

January 2d, 1778, the face of the earth was perfectly white with a

beautiful sparkling frost. Sat off for Augusta with a company of

traders, four men with about thirty horses, twenty of which were loaded

with leather and furs, each pack or load supposed to weigh one hundred

and fifty pounds upon an average. In three days we arrived at the

Apalachucla or Chata Uche river; crossed at the point towns Chehaw and

Usseta: these towns almost join each other, yet speak two languages, as

radically different perhaps as the Muscogulge’s and Chinese. After

leaving the river we met with nothing material, or worth particular

observation, until our arrival at Oakmulge, towards evening, where we

encamped in expansive ancient Indian fields, in view of the foaming

flood of the river, now raging over its banks. Here were two companies

of traders from Augusta, bound to the Nation, consisting of fifteen or

twenty men, with seventy or eighty horses, most of which had their

loads of merchandize: they crossed the river this morning and lost six

horses in the attempt; they were drowned, being entangled in the vines

under water at landing. But the river now falling again, we were in

hopes that by next morning the waters would be again confined within

the banks. We immediately sat about rigging our portable leather boat,

about eight feet long, which was of thick soal leather, folded up and

carried on the top of a pack of deer skins. The people soon got her

rigged, which was effected after the following manner. We, in the first

place, cut down a White-Oak sapling, and by notching this at each end,

bent it up, which formed the keel, stem and stern post of one piece,

this was placed in the bottom of the boat, and pretty strong hoop-poles

being fixed in the bottom across the keel, turning up their ends,

expanded the hull of the boat, which being fastened by thongs to two

other poles bent round, the outside of the rim formed the gunwales:

thus in an hour’s time our bark was rigged, to which afterwards we

added two little oars or sculls. Our boat being now in readiness, and

our horses turned out to pasture, each one retired to repose, or to

such exercise as most effectually contributed to divert the mind. I was

at this time rather dejected, and sought comfort in retirement, turning

my course to the expansive fields, fragrant groves and sublime forests.

Returned to camp by dusk, where I found my companions cheerful and

thoughtless rather to an extreme. It was a calm still evening and warm;

the wood-cock (scolopax) chirruping high up in the air, gently descends

by spiral circular tract, and alights on the humid plain: this bird

appears in Pennsylvania early in the spring, when the Elm and Maple

begin to flower; and here the scarlet Maple, Elm and Elder began to

show their flowers; the yellow Jasmin just ready to open its fragrant

golden blossoms, and the gay Azalea also preparing to expand its

beauties.

The morning cool and pleasant: after reconnoitering the shores of the

rivers, and consulting with our brethren in distress, who had not yet

decamped, resolving to stay and lend their assistance in passing over

this rapid gulph, we were encouraged to proceed; and launching our bark

into the raging flood, after many successful trips ferried over all the

goods, then drove in our horses altogether, and had the pleasure of

seeing them all safely landed on the opposite shore; and lastly I

embarked with three of our people, and several packs of leather, we

then put off from shore, bidding adieu to our generous friends left

behind, who re-echoed our shouts upon our safe landing. We proceeded

again, crossed the Oconne in the same manner, and with the like

success, and came to camp in the fertile fields, on the banks of that

beautiful river; and proceeding thence next day, in the evening came to

camp on the waters of great Ogeche. The following day, after crossing

several of its considerable branches, came to camp, and next day

crossed the main branch of that famous river, which being wide and very

rapid proved difficult and dangerous fording; yet we crossed without

any loss, but some of our pack-horses were badly bruised, being swept

off their feet and dashed against the rocks, my horse too being carried

away with the current, and plunging off sunken shelving rocks into deep

holes, I got very wet, but I kept my seat and landed safe: however I

suffered much, it being a cold freezing day. We came to camp early and

raising great fires with Pine knots and other wood, we dried ourselves

and kept warm during the long night, and after two days more hard

travelling we arrived at Augusta.

Being under a necessity of making two or three days stay here, in order

to refit myself, for by this time my stock of clothes was entirely worn

out. I took this opportunity of visiting my friend doctor Wells, at his

plantations near the city. And now being again new clothed, and

furnished with a tolerable Indian poney, I took leave of my host and

prepared to depart for Savanna.

Soon after I left Augusta, proceeding for Savanna, the capital, a

gentleman overtook me on the road, who was a native of Ireland, and had

lately arrived in this part of America with a view of settling a

plantation in Georgia, particularly for the culture of those very

useful fruits and vegetables that are cultivated up the Mediterranean,

and which so largely contribute towards supporting that lucrative

branch of commerce, i. e. the Levant trade; viz. Vitis vinifera, for

wine, Vitis Corinthiaca, for Currants, Vitis Allobrogica, for Raisins,

Olives, Figs, Morus, for feeding silk-worms, Amygdalus communis,

Pistachia, Capparis, Citrus aurantium, Citrus limon, Citrus verrucosa,

the great sweet scented Citron, &c. He was very ingenious, desirous of

information and as liberal and free of communicating his own

acquisitions and discoveries in useful science, and consequently a very

agreeable companion. On our journey down we stopped a while to rest and

refresh ourselves at the Great Springs, near the road, on our left

hand, about midway between Augusta and Savanna. This amazing fountain

of transparent cool water, breaks suddenly out of the earth, at the

basis of a moderately elevated hill or bank, forming at once a bason

near twenty yards over, ascending through a horizontal bed of soft

socks, of a heterogeneous composition, chiefly a testaceous concretion

of broken, entire and pulverised sea-shells, sand, &c. constituting a

coarse kind of lime-stone. The ebullition is copious, active and

continual over the ragged apertures in the rocks, which lie seven or

eight feet below, swelling the surface considerably immediately above

it. The waters descend swiftly from the fountain, forming at once a

large brook, six or eight yards over, and five or six feet deep. There

are multitudes of fish in the fountain of various tribes, chiefly the

several species of bream, trout, cat-fish and garr: it was amusing to

behold the fish continually ascending and descending through the rocky

apertures. Observed that we crossed no stream or brook of water within

twelve or fifteen miles of this fountain, but had in view vast

savannas, swamps and Cane meadows, at no great distance from our road,

on our right hand, which we may presume were the resources or

reservoirs which contributed to the supplies of this delightful grotto.

Here were growing on the ascents from the fountain, Magnolia

grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus sempervirens, Callicarpa; at a

little distance a grove of the Cassine; and in an old field, just by,

are to be seen some small Indian mounts. We travelled several miles

over ridges of low swelling hills, whose surfaces were covered with

particoloured pebbles, streaked and clouded with red, white, brown and

yellow: they were mostly broken or shivered to pieces, I believe by the

ancients in forming arrow-heads, darts, knives &c. for I observed

frequently some of these misshapen implements amongst them, some broken

and others spoiled in the making. These stones seemed to be a species

of jasper or agate.

On my way down I also called at Silver Bluff, and waited on the

honourable G. Golphin, Esq. to acknowledge my obligations to him, and

likewise to fulfil my engagements on the part of Mr. T——y, trader of

Mucclasse. Mr. Golphin assured me that he was in a disagreeable

predicament, and that he feared the worst, but said he would do all in

his power to save him.

After five days pleasant travelling we arrived at Savanna in good

health.

List of the towns and tribes in league, and which constitute the

powerful confederacy or empire of the Creeks or Muscogulges.

Towns on the Tallapoose or Oakfuske river, viz.

These speak the Muscogulge or Creek tongue, called the Mother tongue.

Oakfuske, upper.

Oakfuske, lower.

Ufale, upper.

Ufale, lower.

Sokaspoge.

Tallase, great.

Coolome.

Ghuaclahatche.

Otasse.

Cluale.

Fusahatche.

Tuccabatche.

Cunhutke.

Speak the Stincard tongue.

Mucclasse.

Alabama.

Speak the Uche tongue.

Savannuca.

Speak the Stincard tongue.

Whittumke.

Coosauda.

Towns on the Coosau river, viz.

Speaks a dialect of Chicasaw.

Abacooche.

Speak the Muscogulge tongue

Pocontallahasse.

Hickory ground, traders’ name.

Speaks Muscog. and Chicasaw.

Natche.

Towns on the branches of the Coosau river, viz.

Speak the Muscogulge tongue.

Wiccakaw.

Fish pond, traders’ name.

Hillaba.

Kiolege

Towns on the Apalachucla or Chata Uche river, viz.

Speak the Muscogulge tongue.

Apalachucla.

Tucpauska.

Chockeclucca.

Chata Uche.

Checlucca-ninne.

Hothletega.

Coweta.

Usseta.

Speaks the Savannuca tongue.

Uche.

Speaks the Muscog. tongue.

Hooseche.

Speak the Stincard.

Chehaw.

Echeta.

Occone.

Swaglaw, great.

Swaglaw, little.

Towns on Flint river, comprehending the Siminoles or Lower Creeks.

Suola-nocha.

Cuscowilla or Allachua.

Talahasochte.

Caloosahatche.

——Great island. Traders name.

——Great hammock. Traders name.

——Capon. Traders name.

——St. Mark’s. Traders name.

——Forks. Traders name.

With many others of less note.

The Siminoles speak both the Muscogulge and Stincard tongue.

In all fifty-five towns, besides many villages not enumerated; and

reckoning two hundred inhabitants to each town on an average, which is

a moderate computation, would give eleven thousand inhabitants.

It appears to me pretty clearly, from divers circumstances, that this

powerful empire or confederacy of the Creeks or Muscogulges, arose

from, and established itself upon, the ruins of that of the Natches,

agreeably to Monsieur Duprat. According to the Muscogulges account of

themselves, they arrived from the South-West, beyond the Mississippi,

some time before the English settled the colony of Carolina and built

Charleston; and their story concerning their country and people, from

whence they sprang, the cause of leaving their native land, the

progress of their migration, &c. is very similar to that celebrated

historian’s account of the Natches. They might have been included as

allies and confederates in that vast and powerful empire of red men.

The Muscogulges gradually pushing and extending their settlements on

their North-East border, until the dissolution of the Natches empire;

being then the most numerous, warlike and powerful tribe, they began to

subjugate the various tribes or bands which formerly constituted the

Natches, and uniting them with themselves, formed a new confederacy

under the name of the Muscogulges.

The Muscogulge tongue is now the national or sovereign language, those

of the Chicasaws, Chactaws, and even the remains of the Natches, if we

are to credit the Creeks and traders, being dialects of the Muscogulge:

and probably, when the Natches were sovereigns, they called their own

the national tongue, and the Creeks, Chicasaws, &c. only dialects of

theirs. It is uncertain which is really the mother tongue.

As for those numerous remnant bands or tribes, included at this day

within the Muscogulge confederacy, who generally speak the Stincard

language, (which is radically different from the Muscogulge) they are,

beyond a doubt, the shattered remains of the various nations who

inhabited the lower or maritime parts of Carolina and Florida, from

Cape Fear, west to the Mississippi. The language of the Uches and

Savannucas is a third radically different from the Muscogulge and

Stincard, and seems to be a more Northern tongue; I suppose a language

that prevailed amongst the numerous tribes who formerly possessed and

inhabited the maritime parts of Maryland and Virginia. I was told by an

old trader that the Savannucas and Shawanese speak the same language,

or very near alike.

[55] Sanctorium or sacred temple; and it is said to be death for any

person but the mico, war-chief and high priest to enter in, and none

are admitted but by permission of the priests, who guard it day and

night.

[56] Vultur sacra.

CHAPTER IX.

After my return from the Creek nation, I employed myself during the

spring and fore part of summer, in revisiting the several districts in

Georgia and the East borders of Florida, where I had noted the most

curious subjects; collecting them together, and shipping them off to

England. In the course of these excursions and researches, I had the

opportunity of observing the new flowering shrub, resembling the

Gordonia[57], in perfect bloom, as well as bearing ripe fruit. It is a

flowering tree, of the first order for beauty and fragrance of

blossoms: the tree grows fifteen or twenty feet high, branching

alternately; the leaves are oblong, broadest towards their extremities,

and terminate with an acute point, which is generally a little

reflexed; they are lightly serrated, attenuate downwards and sessile,

or have very short petioles; they are placed in alternate order, and

towards the extremities of the twigs are crowded together, but stand

more sparsedly below; the flowers are very large, expand themselves

perfectly, are of a snow-white colour, and ornamented with a crown or

tassel of gold coloured refulgent staminæ in their centre, the inferior

petal or segment of the corolla is hollow, formed like a cap or helmet,

and entirely includes the other four, until the moment of expansion;

its exterior surface is covered with a short silky hair; the borders of

the petals are crisped or plicated: these large white flowers stand

single and sessile in the bosom of the leaves, which being near

together towards the extremities of the twigs, and usually many

expanded at the same time, make a gay appearance: the fruit is a large,

round, dry, woody apple or pericarp, opening at each end oppositely by

five alternate fissures, containing ten cells, each replete with dry

woody cuneiform seed. This very curious tree was first taken notice of

about ten or twelve years ago, at this place, when I attended my father

(John Bartram) on a botanical excursion; but, it being then late in the

autumn, we could form no opinion to what class or tribe it belonged.

We never saw it grow in any other place, nor have I ever since seen it

growing wild, in all my travels, from Pennsylvania to Point Coupè, on

the banks of the Mississippi, which must be allowed a very singular and

unaccountable circumstance; at this place there are two or three acres

of ground where it grows plentifully.

The other new, singular and beautiful shrub[58], now here in full

bloom, I never saw grow but at two other places in all my travels, and

there very sparingly, except in East Florida, in the neighbourhood of

the sea-coast.

[57] On first observing the fructification and habit of this tree, I

was inclined to believe it a species of Gordonia; but afterwards, upon

stricter examination, and comparing its flowers and fruit with those

of the Gordonia lasianthus, I presently found striking characteristics

abundantly sufficient to separate it from that genus, and to establish

it the head of a new tribe, which we have honoured with the name of

the illustrious Dr. Benjamin Franklin, Franklinia Alatamaha.

[58] I gave it the name of Bignonia bracteate extempore.

CHAPTER X.

Having now completed my collections in Georgia, I took leave of these

Southern regions, proceeding on my return to Charleston. Left Savanna

in the evening, in consequence of a pressing invitation from the

honourable Jonathan Bryan, Esq. who was returning from the capital, to

his villa, about eight miles up Savanna river; a very delightful

situation, where are spacious gardens, furnished with variety of fruit

trees and flowering shrubs. Observed in a low wet place at the corner

of the garden, the Ado (Arum esculentum); this plant is much cultivated

in the maritime parts of Georgia and Florida, for the sake of its large

Turnip-like root, which when boiled or roasted, is excellent food, and

tastes like the Yam; the leaves of this magnificent plant are very

large, and of a beautiful green colour, the spatha large and

circulated, the spadix terminates with a very long subulated tongue,

naked and perfectly white: perhaps this may be the Arum Colocasia. They

have likewise another species of the esculent Arum, called Tannier,

which is a large and beautiful plant, and much cultivated and esteemed

for food, particularly by the Negroes.

At night, soon after our arrival, several of his servants came home

with horse loads of wild pigeons (Columba migratoria), which it seems

they had collected in a short space of time at a neighbouring Bay

swamp: they take them by torch light: the birds have particular

roosting places, where they associate in incredible multitudes at

evening, on low trees and bushes, in hommocks or higher knolls in the

interior parts of vast swamps. Many people go out together on this kind

of sport, when dark: some take with them little fascines of fat Pine

splinters for torches; others sacks or bags; and others furnish

themselves with poles or staves: thus accoutered and prepared, they

approach the roosts; the sudden blaze of light confounds, blinds and

affrights the birds, whereby multitudes drop off the limbs to the

ground, and others are beaten off with the staves, being by the sudden

consternation, entirely helpless, and easily taken and put into the

sacks. It is chiefly the sweet small acorns of the Quercus phillos,

Quercus aquatica, Quercus sempervirens, Quercus flammula, and others,

which induce these birds to migrate in the autumn to those Southern

regions; where they spend their days agreeably, and feast luxuriously,

during the rigour of the colds in the North, whither they return at the

approach of summer to breed.

Sat off next day, and crossed the river at Zubley’s ferry, about fifty

miles above Savanna, and in three days after arrived at Charleston.

Observed, by the way near Jacksonsburg Ponpon, After fructicovus,

growing plentifully in good moist ground, usually by the banks of

canals. It is a most charming autumnal flowering shrub, it will rise to

the height of eight or ten feet, when supported by neighbouring trees.

After a few days residence in Charleston, I sat off on my return to my

native land; crossed Cowper river, about nine miles above the city,

where the water was a mile wide, and the ferry-house being on the

opposite shore, I hoisted my travelling blanket on a pole for a signal,

which being white, the people soon came to me and carried me safe over.

In three days more easy travelling, I crossed Winyaw bay, just below

Georgetown; and in two days more, got to the west end of Long bay,

where I lodged at a large Indigo plantation. Sat off early next

morning, and after crossing over the sand ridges, which afford little

else but Quercus pumila, Myrica cerifera, Cassine, Sideroxylon and

Andromeda entangled with various species of Smilax, got on the bay,

which is a hard sand beach, exposed for the distance of fifteen miles

to the continual lash of the Atlantic ocean. At about low water mark,

are cliffs of rocks of the helmintholithus, being a very firm concrete

or petrifaction, consisting of various kinds of seashells, fine sand

and pulverized shells: there is a reef of these rocks, thirty or forty

yards farther out than low water mark, which lift their rugged backs

above water, and brave the continual strokes of the waves, which,

however, assisted by the constant friction of the sands, make continual

inroads upon them, bore them into holes and cavities, when tempestuous

seas rend them to pieces, scattering the fragments over the sandy

shore. It is pleasant riding on this clean hard sand, paved with shells

of various colours.

Observed a number of persons coming up a head, whom I soon perceived to

be a party of Negroes. I had every reason to dread the consequence; for

this being a desolate place, I was by this time several miles from any

house or plantation, and had reason to apprehend this to be a predatory

band of Negroes; people being frequently attacked, robbed, and

sometimes murdered by them at this place. I was unarmed, alone, and my

horse tired; thus situated every way in their power, I had no

alternative but to be resigned and prepare to meet them. As soon as I

saw them distinctly a mile or two off, I immediately alighted to rest,

and give breath to my horse, intending to attempt my safety by slight,

if upon near approach they should betray hostile designs. Thus

prepared, when we drew near to each other, I mounted and rode briskly

up; and though armed with clubs, axes and hoes, they opened to right

and left, and let me pass peaceably. Their chief informed me whom they

belonged to, and said they were going to man a new quarter at the west

end of the bay; I however kept a sharp eye about me, apprehending that

this might possibly have been an advanced division, and their

intentions were to ambuscade and surround me; but they kept on quietly,

and I was no more alarmed by them. After noon, I crossed the swash at

the east end of the bay, and in the evening got to good quarters. Next

morning early I sat off again, and soon crossed Little River at the

boundary; which is on the line that separates North and South Carolina:

in an old field, on the banks of this river, a little distance from the

public house, stands a single tree of the Magnolia grandiflora, which

is said to be the most northern settlement of that tree. Passed this

day over expansive savannas, charmingly decorated with late autumnal

flowers, as Helianthus, Rudbeckia, Silphium, Solidago, Helenium,

Serratula, Cacalia, Aster, Lillium Martagon, Gentiana cærulea,

Chironia, Gentiana saponaria, Asclepias coccinea, Hypericum, Rhexia

pulcherima, &c. &c.

Observed likewise in these savannas abundance of the ludicrous Dionæa

muscipula (Dionæa, Ellis epis. ad Linnæum, miraculum naturæ, folia

biloba, radicalia, ciliata, conduplicanda, sensibilia, insecta

incarcerantia. Syst. vegetab. p. 335).

This wonderful plant seems to be distinguished in the creation, by the

Author of nature, with faculties eminently superior to every other

vegetable production[59]; specimens of it were first communicated to

the curious of the old world by John Bartram, the American botanist and

traveller, who contributed as much if not more than any other man

towards enriching the North American botanical nomenclature, as well as

its natural history.

After traversing these ample savannas, I gradually ascended sand hills

to open Pine forests; at evening got to Old town near Brunswick, where

I lodged. Brunswick is a sea-port town on the Clarendon, or Cape Fear

river, about thirty miles above the capes; it is about thirty years

since this was the seat of government, when Arthur Dobbs, Esq. was

governor and commander in chief of the province of North Carolina.

Continued up the west side of North West of Cape Fear river, and rested

two or three days at the seat of F. Lucas, Esq. a few miles above

Livingston’s creek, a considerable branch of the North West. This creek

heads in vast swamps, in the vicinity of the beautiful lake Wakamaw,

which is the source of a fine river of that name, and runs a South

course seventy or eighty miles, delivering its waters into Winyaw bay

at George-town. The Wakamaw lake is twenty-six miles in circuit; the

lands on its Eastern shores are fertile, and the situation delightful,

gradually ascending from pleasing eminences; bounded on the North-West

coast by vast rich swamps, fit for the production of Rice: the lake is

twelve miles west from —— Moore’s, Esq. whose villa is on the banks of

the North West.

Proceeding again up the North West, crossed Carver’s creek, and stopped

at Ashwood, the ancient seat of Colonel William Bartram. The house

stands on the high banks of the river, near seventy feet in height,

above the surface of the water; this high bluff continues two or three

miles on the river, and commands a magnificent prospect of the low

lands opposite, when in their native state, presenting to the view

grand forests and expansive Cane meadows: the trees which compose these

forests are generally of the following tribes, Quercus tinctoria,

Querc. alba, Querc. phillos, Querc. aquatica, Querc. hemispherica,

Fraxinus excelsior, Platanus occidentalis, Liriodendron tulipifera,

Liquidambar styraciflua, Ulmus, Telea, Juglans hickory, Juglans

cinerea, Juglans nigra, Morus rubra, Gleditsia triacanthus, Hopea

tinctoria, Nyssa aquatica, Nyssa sylvatica, Carpinus and many more; the

Cupressus disticha as stately and beautiful as I have seen any where.

When these lands are cleared of their timber and cultivated, they

produce abundantly, particularly, Wheat, Zea, Cotton, Hemp, Flax, with

variety of excellent vegetables. This perpendicular bank of the river,

by which the waters swiftly glide along, discovers at once the various

strata of the earth of this low maritime country. For the most part the

upper stratum consists of a light, sandy, pale, yellowish mould or

loam, for ten or twelve feet in depth (except the flat level land back

from the rivers, where the clays or marle approach very near the

surface, and the ridges of sand hills, where the clays lie much

deeper): this sandy mould or loam lies upon a deep bed of black, or

dark slate coloured saline and sulphureous earth, which is composed of

horizontal thin flakes or laminæ, separable by means of very thin,

almost imperceptible veins or strata of fine micaceous particles, which

drain or percolate a clear water, continually exuding, or trickling

down, and forming little rills and diminutive cataracts, being

conducted by perpendicular chinks or fissures: in some places, a

portion of this clear water or transparent vapour, seems to coagulate

on the edges of the veins and fissures, leaving a reddish curd or

jelly-like substance sticking to them, which I should suppose indicates

it to spring from a ferruginous source, especially since it discovers a

chalybeate scent and taste: in other places these fissures show

evidently a crystallization of exceeding fine white salts, which have

an alluminous or vitriolic scent: there are pyrites, marcasites, or

sulphureous nodules, shining like brass, of various sizes and forms,

some single and others conglomerated: other places present to view,

strata of heterogenous matter, lying between the upper loamy stratum

and the bed of black saline earth, consisting of various kinds of sea

shells, some whole, others broken to pieces, and even pulverized, which

fill up the cavities of the entire shells, and the interstices betwixt

them: at other places we observe, two or three feet below the surface

or virgin mould, a stratum of four, five or six feet in depth, of

brownish marle, on a bed of testaceous rocks; a petrefaction composed

apparently of various kinds of sea shells, belemnites, sand, &c.

combined or united with a calcareous cement: these masses of rocks are

in some places detached by veins and strata of a heterogenous earth,

consisting of sea shells and other marine productions, as well as

terrestrial, which seem to be fossile or in some degree of

petrifaction, or otherwise transmuted, particularly those curious

productions called birds bills or sharks teeth (dentes carchariæ)

belemnites, &c. loosely mixed with a desiccated earth composed of sand,

clay, particles of marle, vegetable rubbish, &c. And again we observe

shells, marcasites, belemnites, dentes carchariæ, with pieces of wood

transmuted, black and hard as sea coal, singly interspersed in the

black vitriolic strata of earth: when this black earth is exposed to

the sun and dry air, the little thin laminæ separate, and soon discover

a fine, white crystallization, or alluminous powder; but this very soon

disappears, being again incorporated with the general mass, which

gradually dissolves or falls like quick-lime, and appears then a

greyish, extremely fine, dry micaceous powder, which smells like

gun-powder.

The North West of Cape Fear, here at Ashwood, is near three hundred

yards over (when the stream is low and within its banks), and is eighty

or ninety miles above the capes. Observed growing hereabouts a great

variety of very curious and beautiful flowering and sweet scented

shrubs, particularly Callicarpa, Æsculus pavia, floribus coccineis,

caule suffructicoso, Æsculus sylvatica, floribus ex albo et carneo

eleganter variegatis, caule arboreo, Ptelea trifoliata, Styrax,

Stewartia, Fothergilla, Amorpha, Myrica, Stillingia fructicosa, foliis

lanciolatis, utrinque glabris, fructu tricocco, Olea Americana, foliis

lanceolato-ellipticis, baccis atro-purpureis (Purple berried bay),

Catesby. Ilex dahoon, Cassine Yapon, Azalea, varieties, Kalmia,

Cyrilla, Liquidambar peregrinum, Sideroxylon, Andromeda lucida, &c.

[Illustration: Andromeda Pulverulenta]

Leaving Ashwood, and continuing up the west side of the river, about

forty miles, in the banks of a creek, five or six feet below the sandy

surface, are to be seen projecting out many feet in length, trunks of

trees petrified to very hard stone; they lie between the upper sandy

stratum and the common bed of blackish vitriolic earth; and these stone

trees are to be seen in the same situation, sticking out of the

perpendicular banks or bluffs of the river in this region: there are

several trunks of large trees with their bark, stumps of their limbs

and roots, lying petrified on the sand hills and Pine forests, near the

road about this creek, not far from the saw-mills.

Crossed Rock-fish, a large branch of the North West, near its mouth or

confluence, and at evening arrived at Cross-Creeks, another very

considerable branch of the river, flowing in through its west banks.

This creek gave name to a fine inland trading town, on some heights or

swelling hills, from whence the creek descends precipitately, then

gently meanders near a mile, through lower level lands, to its

confluence with the river, affording most convenient mill-seats: these

prospects induced active enterprising men to avail themselves of such

advantages pointed out to them by nature; they built mills, which drew

people to the place, and these observing eligible situations for other

profitable improvements, bought lots and erected tenements, where they

exercised mechanic arts, as smiths, wheelwrights, carpenters, coopers,

tanners, &c. And at length merchants were encouraged to adventure and

settle: in short, within eight or ten years from a grist-mill,

saw-mill, smith-shop and a tavern, arose a flourishing commercial town,

the seat of government of the county of Cumberland. The leading men of

the county, seeing plainly the superior advantages of this situation,

on the banks of a famous navigable river, petitioned the Assembly for a

charter to empower them to purchase a district, sufficient for founding

a large town, which being granted, they immediately proceeded to mark

out its precincts, and named the new city Cambelton, a compliment to ——

Cambel, Esq. a gentleman of merit, and a citizen of the county. When I

was here about twenty years ago, this town was marking out its bounds,

and there were then about twenty habitations, and now there are above a

thousand houses, many wealthy merchants, and respectable public

buildings, a vast resort of inhabitants and travellers, and continual

brisk commerce by waggons, from the back settlements, with large

trading boats, to and from Wilmington, the seaport and flourishing

trading town on the Clarendon, about forty miles above the capes, which

is about one hundred miles below this town. The Clarendon or Cape Fear

river has its source in the Cherokee mountains, where its numerous

confederate streams unite, after leaving the first ridges of the

mountains, it assumes the name of Haw river, and coursing the hilly

fertile country, above one hundred and fifty miles, receives through

its west banks the west branch, called Deep River, and after this

union, takes the name of the North-West of Cape Fear, from whence, down

to Cambelton, about eighty miles it is navigable for perriauguas of

considerable burthen.

Observed near Cambelton a very curious scandent Fern (Pteris scandens)

rambling over low bushes, in humid situations; the lower larger fronds

were digitated, or rather radiated, but towards the tops or extremities

of the branches they became trifid, hastated, and lastly lanceolate: it

is a delicate plant, of a yellowish lively green, and would be an

ornament in a garden.