After the predatory band of Siminoles, under the conduct of the Long
Warrior, had decamped, Mr. M’Latche invited me with him on a visit to
an Indian town, about twelve miles distance from the trading-house, to
regale ourselves at a feast of Water Mellons and Oranges, the Indians
having brought a canoe load of them to the trading-house the day
preceding, which they disposed of to the traders. This was a
circumstance pretty extraordinary to me, it being late in September, a
season of the year when the Citruels are ripe and gone in Georgia and
Carolina; but here the weather yet continued hot and sultry, and
consequently this cool, exhilerating fruit was still in high relish and
estimation.
After breakfasting, having each of us a Siminole horse completely
equipped, we sat off: the ride was agreeable and variously
entertaining. We kept no road or pathway constantly, but as Indian
hunting tracks by chance suited our course, riding through high open,
pine forests, green lawns and flowery savannas in youthful verdure and
gaity, having been lately burnt, but now overrun with a green enamelled
carpet, checquered with hommocks of trees of dark green foliage,
intersected with serpentine rivulets, their banks adorned with
shrubberies of various tribes, as Andromeda formosissima, And. nitida,
And. virides, And. calyculata, And. axillaris, Kalmia spuria, Annona
alba, &c. About noon we arrived at the town, the same little village I
passed by on my ascent of the river, on the banks of the little lake
below Charlotia.
We were received and entertained friendly by the Indians, the chief of
the village conducting us to a grand, airy pavilion in the centre of
the village. It was four square; a range of pillars or posts on each
side supporting a canopy composed of Palmetto leaves, woven or thatched
together, which shaded a level platform in the centre, that was
ascended to from each side by two steps or flights, each about twelve
inches high, and seven or eight feet in breadth, all covered with
carpets or mats, curiously woven, of split canes dyed of various
colours. Here being seated or reclining ourselves, after smoking
tobacco, baskets of choicest fruits were brought and set before us.
The fields surrounding the town and groves were plentifully stored with
Corn, Citruels, Pumpkins, Squashes, Beans, Peas, Potatoes, Peaches,
Figs, Oranges, &c.
Towards evening we took our leave, and arrived at the stores before
night, having in the course of the day collected a variety of curious
specimens of vegetables, seeds and roots.
The company being busily employed in forming their packs of leather and
loading the vessel, and I being eager to augment my collections during
my stay here, I crossed the river with a gang of our people, who were
transporting a party of horses to range in the meadows and plains on
the side opposite to the trading-house: we carried them over in a large
flat or scow. The river was here above a mile wide, but divided into a
number of streams by numerous islands, which occasioned the voyage to
be very troublesome, as most of the horses were lately taken wild out
of their ranges, and many of them young and untutored. Being under the
necessity of passing near the points of the islands, they grew restless
and impatient to land, and it was with great difficulty we kept them on
board; and at last when within a quarter of a mile of the opposite
shore, passing between two islands, the horses became ungovernable, and
most of them plunged into the river and forced overboard one of our
people. I being a pretty good swimmer, in the midst of the bustle, and
to avoid being beat over and perhaps wounded, leapt out, and caught
hold of the dock of one of the horses. We all landed safe on one of the
islands, about one hundred and fifty yards distance, and the flat
followed us. After a deal of trouble and loss of time, we got the
horses again into the scow, where securing them by withs and vines, we
again sat off, and soon landed safe on the main, at a high bluff or
bank of the river, where, after turning the horses to pasture, and
resting ourselves, we sat off on a visit to a plantation on the river,
six or eight miles distance. On the way thither we discovered a bee
tree, which we cut down, and regaled ourselves on the delicious honey;
leaving one of our companions to protect the remainder until our return
with a tub, to collect it and carry it with us; and in the evening we
all returned safe with our sweet booty to the trading-house.
The vessel being loaded and ready to depart, I got all my collections
on board. My trusty and fortunate bark I presented to the old
interpreter, Job Wiggens, often my travelling companion, friend and
benefactor; and taking an affectionate and final leave of the worthy C.
M’Latche and the whole trading company, we set sail in a neat little
schooner for Frederica in Georgia, about the last of September. We had
a pleasant and prosperous voyage down the grand river St. Juan’s,
frequently visiting the plantations on the banks of the river,
especially at such times as opposed by contrary winds; and according to
promise did not neglect calling on the generous and friendly Mr.
Marshall, who received me so politely, and treated me with such
unparalleled friendship and hospitality, when ascending the river alone
last spring.
We never once went out to sea during the voyage; for when we had
descended the river below the Cow-ford, we entered the sound by a
channel between Fort George Island and the main, through which we
passed, and continued sailing between the sea coast islands and the
main to Frederica on St. Simon’s.
On my arrival at Frederica, I was again, as usual, friendly received
and accommodated by the excellent John Spalding, Esq; and here learning
that the honourable Henry Lawrens, Esq; had a large ship loading at
Sunbury for Liverpool, I determined to embrace so favourable an offer
for conveying my collections to Europe; and hearing at the same time
that Mr. Lawrens was daily expected in a vessel of his own, at his
plantations on Broton Island and New Hope, in order to take a loading
of rice for the cargo of the ship at Sunbury, I transported my
collections to Broton; where meeting with Mr. Lawrens, he generally
permitted me to put my things on board his vessel, and gave me room
with himself in the cabin; and the merchant in Liverpool, to whom the
ship was consigned, being his friend and correspondent, and a friend of
Dr. Fothergill’s, Mr. Lawrens proposed to recommend my collections and
letters to his care.
These favourable circumstances thus co-operating, after bidding adieu
to my friends and liberal patrons in these parts, I embarked on board
this vessel, and after a short and pleasant passage through the sound,
arrived at Sunbury, from whence, after shipping my collections, I sat
sail again for Charleston, South Carolina; where being arrived I spent
the season in short excursions until next spring; and during this time
of my recess I had leisure to plan my future travels, agreeable to Dr.
Fothergill’s instructions, and the council and advice of Dr. Chalmers
of Charleston, with other gentlemen of that city, eminent for the
promotion of science and encouraging merit and industry.
It was agreed that my future route should be directed West and
South-West, into the Cherokee country and the regions of the
Muscogulges or Creeks.
JOURNAL
OF THE TRAVELS CONTINUED. PART III.
CHAPTER I.
April 22d, 1776, I sat off from Charleston for the Cherokee nation, and
after riding this day about twenty-five miles, arrived in the evening
at Jacksonsburg, a village on Ponpon river. The next day’s journey was
about the same distance, to a public house or inn on the road.
The next day, early in the morning, I sat off again, and about noon
stopped at a public house to dine. After the meridan heats were abated,
proceeding on till evening, I obtained good quarters at a private
house, having rode this day about thirty miles. At this plantation I
observed a large orchard of the European Mulberry tree (Morus alba)
some of which were grafted on stocks of the native Mulberry (Morus
rubra); these trees were cultivated for the purpose of feeding
silk-worms (phalaena bombyx). Having breakfasted, I sat forward again.
I soon entered a high forest, continuing the space of fifteen miles to
the Three Sisters, a public ferry on Savanna River: the country
generally very level; the soil a dark, loose, fertile mould, on a
stratum of cinereous-coloured tenacious clay; the ground shaded with
its native forests, consisting of the great Black Oak, Quercus
tinctoria, Q. rubra, Q. phellos, Q. prinos, Q. hemispherica, Juglans
nigra, J. rustica, J. exaltata, Magnolia grandiflora, Fraxinus
excelsior, Acer rubrum, Liriodendron tulipifera, Populus heterophylla,
Morus rubra, Nyssa sylvatica, Platanus occidentales, Tilia, Ulmus
campestris, U. subiser, Laurus sassafras, L. Borbonia, Ilex aquifolium,
Fagus sylvatica, Cornus Florida, Halesia, Æsculus pavia, Sambucus,
Callicarpa, and Stewartia malachodendron, with a variety of other trees
and shrubs. This ancient sublime forest, frequently intersected with
extensive avenues, vistas and green lawns, opening to extensive
savannas and far distant Rice plantations, agreeably employs the
imagination, and captivates the senses by their magnificence and
grandeur.
The gay mock-bird, vocal and joyous, mounts aloft on silvered wings,
rolls over and over, then gently descends, and presides in the choir of
the tuneful tribes.
Having dined at the ferry, I crossed the river into Georgia: on landing
and ascending the bank, which was here a North prospect, I observed the
Dirca palustris, growing six or seven feet high. I rode about twelve
miles further through Pine forests and savannas. In the evening I took
up my quarters at a delightful habitation, though not a common tavern.
Having ordered my horse a stable and provender, and refreshed my
spirits with a draught of cooling liquor, I betook myself to
contemplation in the groves and lawns. Directing my steps towards the
river, I observed in a high Pine forest on the border of a savanna, a
great number of cattle herded together, and on my nearer approach
discovered it to be a cow pen: on my coming up I was kindly saluted by
my host and his wife, who I found were superintending a number of
slaves, women, boys and girls, that were milking the cows. Here were
about forty milch cows and as many young calves; for in these Southern
countries the calves run with the cows a whole year, the people milking
them at the same time. The pen, including two or three acres of ground,
more or less, according to the stock, adjoining a rivulet or run of
water, is enclosed by a fence: in this enclosure the calves are kept
while the cows are out at range: a small part of this pen is partioned
off to receive the cows, when they come up at evening; here are several
stakes drove into the ground, and there is a gate in the partition
fence for a communication between the two pens. When the milkmaid has
taken her share of milk, she looses the calf, who strips the cow, which
is next morning turned out again to range.
I found these people, contrary to what a traveller might, perhaps,
reasonably expect, from their occupation and remote situation from the
capital or any commercial town, to be civil and courteous: and though
educated as it were in the woods, no strangers to sensibility and those
moral virtues which grace and ornament the most approved and admired
characters in civil society.
After the vessels were filled with milk, the daily and liberal supply
of the friendly kine; and the good wife, with her maids and servants,
were returning with it to the dairy; the gentleman was at leisure to
attend to my enquiries and observations, which he did with
complaisance, and apparent pleasure. On my observing to him that his
stock of horned cattle must be very considerable to afford so many
milch cows at one time, he answered, that he had about fifteen hundred
head: “my stock is but young, having lately removed from some distance
to this place; I found it convenient to part with most of my old stock
and begin here anew; Heaven is pleased to bless my endeavours and
industry with success even beyond my own expectations.” Yet continuing
my interrogatories on this subject: your stock I apprehend must be very
profitable, being so convenient to the capital and sea port, in
affording a vast quantity of bees, butter and cheese, for the market,
and must thereby contribute greatly towards your emolument: “yes, I
find my stock of cattle very profitable, and I constantly contribute
towards supplying the markets with beef, but as to the articles of
butter and cheese, I make no more than what is expended in my own
houshold, and I have a considerable family of black people, who, though
they are slaves must be fed, and cared for: those I have were either
chosen for their good qualities, or born in the family, and I find from
long experience and observation, that the better they are fed, clothed
and treated, the more service and profit we may expect to derive from
their labour: in short, I find my stock produces no more milk, or any
article of food or nourishment, than what is expended to the best
advantage amongst my family and slaves.”
He added, come along with me towards the river bank, where I have some
men at work squaring Pine and Cypress timber for the West India market;
I will show you their day’s work, when you will readily grant that I
have reason to acknowledge myself sufficiently gratified for the little
attention bestowed towards them. At yonder little new habitation near
the bluff on the banks of the river, I have settled my eldest son; it
is but a few days since he was married to a deserving young woman.
Having at length arrived near the high banks of the majestic Savanna,
we stood at the timber landing: almost every object in our progress
contributed to demonstrate this good man’s system of economy to be not
only practicable but eligible, and the slaves appeared on all sides as
a crowd of witnesses to justify his industry, humanity and liberal
spirit.
The slaves comparatively of a gigantic stature, fat and muscular,
mounted on the massive timber logs; the regular heavy strokes of their
gleaming axes re-echoed in the deep forests; at the same time contented
and joyful the sooty sons of Afric forgeting their bondage, in chorus
sung the virtues and beneficence of their master in songs of their own
composition.
The log or timber landing is a capacious open area, the lofty pines[46]
having been felled and cleared away for a considerable distance round
about, near an almost perpendicular bluff or steep bank of the river,
rising up immediately from the water to the height of sixty or seventy
feet. The logs being dragged by timber wheels to this yard, and landed
as near the brink of this high bank as possible with safety, and laid
by the side of each other, are rolled off and precipitated down the
bank into the river, where being formed into rafts, they are conducted
by slaves down to Savanna, about fifty miles below this place.
Having contemplated these scenes of art and industry, my venerable host
in company with his son, conducted me to the neat habitation which is
situated in a spacious airy forest, a little distance from the river
bank, commanding a comprehensive and varied prospect; an extensive
reach of the river in front, on the right hand a spacious lawn or
savanna, on the left the timber yard, the vast fertile low lands and
forest on the river upwards, and the plantations adjoining. A cool
evening arrived after a sultry day. As we approach the door conducted
by the young man, his lovely bride arrayed in native innocence and
becoming modesty, with an air and smile of grace and benignity, meets
and salutes us! what a Venus! what an Adonis! said I in silent
transport; every action and feature seem to reveal the celestial
endowments of the mind: though a native sprightliness and sensibility
appear, yet virtue and discretion direct and rule. The dress of this
beauteous sylvan queen was plain but clean, neat and elegant, all of
cotton and of her own spinning and weaving.
Next morning early I sat forward prosecuting my tour. I pursued the
high road leading from Savanna to Augusta for the distance of one
hundred miles or more, and then recrossed the river at Silver Bluff, a
pleasant villa, the property and seat of G. Golphin, esquire, a
gentleman of very distinguished talents and great liberality, who
possessed the most extensive trade, connections and influence, amongst
the South and South-West Indian tribes, particularly with the Creeks
and Chactaws, of whom I fortunately obtained letters of recommendation
and credit to the principal traders residing in the Indian towns.
Silver Bluff is a very celebrated place. It is a considerable height
upon the Carolina shore of the Savanna river, perhaps thirty feet
higher than the low lands on the opposite shore, which are subject to
be overflowed in the spring and fall. This steep bank rises
perpendicularly out of the river, discovering various strata of earth;
the surface for a considerable depth is a loose sandy loam, with a
mixture of sea shells, especially ostreæ; the next stratum is clay,
then sand, next marl, then clays again of various colours and
qualities, which last insensibly mix or unite with a deep stratum of
blackish or dark slate coloured saline and sulphureous earth, which
seems to be of an aluminous or vitriolic quality, and lies in nearly
horizontal lamina or strata of various thickness. We discovered
bellemnites, pyrites, marcasites and sulphureous nodules, shining like
brass, some single of various forms, and others conglomerated, lying in
this black slaty-like micaceous earth; as also sticks, limbs and trunks
of trees, leaves, acorns and their cups, all transmuted or changed
black, hard and shining as charcoal; we also see animal substances, as
if petrified, or what are called sharks’ teeth, (dentes charchariæ) but
these heterogeneous substances or petrifactions are the most abundant
and conspicuous where there is a looser kind of earth, either
immediately upon this vast stratum of black earth, or in the divisions
of the laminæ. The surface of the ground upon this bluff, extends a
mile and an half or two miles on the river, and is from an half mile to
a mile in breadth, nearly level, and a good fertile soil, as is evident
from the vast Oaks, Hickory, Mulberry, Black walnut and other trees and
shrubs, which are left standing in the old fields which are spread
abroad to a great distance, and discover various monuments and vestiges
of the residence of the ancients, as Indian conical mounts, terraces,
areas, &c. as well as remains or traces of fortresses of regular
formation, as if constructed after the modes of European military
architects, and are supposed to be ancient camps of the Spaniards who
formerly fixed themselves at this place in hopes of finding silver.
But perhaps Mr. Golphin’s buildings and improvements will prove to be
the foundation of monuments of infinitely greater celebrity and
permanency than either of the preceding establishments.
The place which at this day is called fort Moore, is a stupendous
bluff, or high perpendicular bank of earth, rising out of the river on
the Carolina shore, perhaps ninety or one hundred feet above the common
surface of the water, and exhibits a singular and pleasing spectacle to
a stranger, especially from the opposite shore, or as we pass up or
down the river, presenting a view of prodigious walls of party-coloured
earths, chiefly clays and marl of various colours, as brown, red,
yellow, blue, purple, white, &c. in horizontal strata, one over the
other.
Waiting for the ferry boat to carry me over, I walked almost round the
under side of the bluff, betwixt its steep wall and the water of the
river, which glided rapidly under my feet. I came to the carcase of a
calf, which the people told me had fallen down from the edge of the
precipice above, being invited too far by grass and sweet herbs, which
they say frequently happens at this place. In early times, the
Carolinians had a fort, and kept a good garrison here as a frontier and
Indian trading post, but Augusta superceding it, this place was
dismantled, and since that time, which probably cannot exceed thirty
years, the river hath so much encroached upon the Carolina shore, that
its bed now lies where the site of the fort then was; indeed some told
me that the opposite Georgia shore, where there is now a fine house and
corn field, occupies the place.
The site of Augusta is perhaps the most delightful and eligible of any
in Georgia for a city. An extensive level plain on the banks of a fine
navigable river, which has its numerous sources in the Cherokee
mountains, a fruitful and temperate region, whence after roving and
winding about those fertile heights, they meander through a fertile
hilly country, and one after another combine in forming the Tugilo and
Broad rivers, and then the famous Savanna river; thence they continue
near an hundred miles more, following its meanders and falls over the
cataracts at Augusta, which cross the river at the upper end of the
town. These falls are four or five feet perpendicular height in the
summer season when the river is low. From these cataracts upwards, this
river with all its tributaries, as Broad river, Little river, Tugilo,
&c. is one continued rapid, with some short intervals of still water,
navigable for canoes. But from Augusta downwards to the ocean, a
distance of near three hundred miles by water, the Savanna
uninterruptedly flows with a gentle meandring course, and is navigable
for vessels of twenty or thirty tons burthen to Savanna, where ships of
three hundred tons lie in a capacious and secure harbour.
Augusta thus seated at the head of navigation, and just below the
conflux of several of its most considerable branches, without a
competitor, commands the trade and commerce of vast fruitful regions
above it, and from every side to a great distance; and I do not
hesitate to pronounce as my opinion, will very soon become the
metropolis of Georgia.[47]
I chose to take this route up Savanna river, in preference to the
straight and shorter road from Charleston to the Cherokee country by
fort Ninety Six, because by keeping near this great river, I had
frequent opportunities of visiting its steep banks, vast swamps and low
grounds, and had the advantage without great delay, or deviating from
the main high road, of observing the various soils and situations of
the countries through which this famous river pursues its course, and
of examining the various productions, mineral, vegetable and animal;
whereas had I pursued the great trading path by Ninety-Six, I should
have been led over a high, dry, sandy and gravelly ridge, and a great
part of the distance an old settled or resorted part of the country,
and consequently void of the varieties of original or novel productions
of nature.
Before I leave Augusta, I shall recite a curious phenomenon, which may
furnish ample matter for philosophical discussion to the curious
naturalists. On the Georgia side of the river, about fifteen miles
below Silver Bluff, the high road crosses a ridge of high swelling
hills of uncommon elevation, and perhaps seventy feet higher than the
surface of the river. These hills, from three feet below the common
vegetative surface, to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, are composed
entirely of fossil oyster shells, internally of the colour and
consistency of clear white marble; the shells are of an incredible
magnitude, generally fifteen or twenty inches in length, from six to
eight wide and two to four in thickness, and their hollows sufficient
to receive an ordinary man’s foot; they appear all to have been opened
before the period of petrefaction, a transmutation they seem evidently
to have suffered; they are undoubtedly very ancient or perhaps
antideluvian. The adjacent inhabitants burn them to lime for building,
for which purpose they serve very well; and would undoubtedly afford an
excellent manure when their lands require it, these hills being now
remarkably fertile. The heaps of shells lie upon a stratum of yellowish
sandy mould, of several feet in depth, upon a foundation of soft white
rocks that has the outward appearance of free-stone, but on strict
examination is really a testaceous concrete or composition of sand and
pulverised sea shells; in short, this testaceous rock approaches near
in quality and appearance to the Bahama or Bermudian white rock.
These hills are shaded with glorious Magnolia grandiflora, Morus rubra,
Tilia, Quercus, Ulmus, Juglans, &c. with aromatic groves of fragrant
Callicanthus Floridus, Rhododendron ferrugineum, Laurus Indica, &c.
Æsculus pavia, Cornus Florida, Azalea coccinea, Philadelphus inodorous
and others; but who would have expected to see the Dirca palustris and
Dodecathean meadea grow in abundance in this hot climate! it is true
they are seen in the rich and deep shaded vales, between the hills and
North exposure; but they attain to a degree of magnitude and splendour
never seen in Pennsylvania.
[46] Pinus palutstris, Linn. the long leaved Pitch Pine, or yellow
Pine.
[47] A few years after the above remark, the seat of government was
removed from Savanna to Augusta.
CHAPTER II.
After conferring with gentlemen in Augusta, conversant in Indian
affairs, concerning my future travels in those distant, unexplored
regions, and obtaining letters to their agents in the Indian
territories, I set off, proceeding for Fort James Dartmouth, at the
confluence of Broad River with Savanna, the road leading me near the
banks of the river for the distance of near thirty miles, crossing two
or three of its considerable branches, besides rivulets and smaller
brooks. The surface of the land uneven, by means of ridges or chains of
swelling hills and corresponding vales, with level downs; the soil a
loose, greyish-brown loamy mould on the hills, but darker and more
cohesive and humid in the vales and downs; this superficial, vegetative
earth, covers a deep stratum of very tenacious yellowish clay: the
downs afford grass and various herbage; the vales and hills, forest
trees and shrubs of various tribes, i. e. Quercus tinctoria, Q. alba,
Q. rubra, Q. lobata, Acer rubrum, A. Saccharinum, A. glaucum, Morus
rubra, Gleditsia triacanthus, Juglans hickory, various species, Quercus
phillos, Quer. dentata, s. hemispherica, Quercus aquatica, or Maryland
Water Oak, Ulmus sylvatica, Liriodendron, Liquidambar, Diospyros,
Cornus Florida, Prunus Indica, Prunus padus and Æsculus pavia; and near
water courses in the vales, Stewartia malachodendron, Halesia, Æsculus
sylvatica, Styrax, Carpinus, Magnolia acuminata, Mag. tripetala, Mag.
auriculata, Azalea, &c. The rich humid lands in the vales bordering on
creeks and bases of the hills, likewise produce various trees, shrubs
and plants, as Cercis, Corylus, Ptelea, Evonimus, Philadelphus
inodorous, Staphylea trifoliata, Chionanthus, Hamamelis, Callicarpa,
Sambucus, Cornus alba, Viburnum dentatum, Spirea opulifolia, Cornus
sanguinea, Cephalanthus, &c. and of herbaceæ a vast variety and
abundance, as Verbesina, Rudbeckia, Phaseolus, Tripsacum, Aconitum
napellus, Delphinium, Angelica lucida, Tradescantia, Trillium fessile,
Trillium cernuum, Actæa, Chelone, Glycine apios, Convalliaria racemosa,
Mediola, Carduus, Bidens frondosa, Arum triphyllum, Coreopsis
alternifolia, Circæa, Commelina, Aster, Solidago, Eupatorium,
Helianthus and Silphium, together with a variety of other tribes and
species new to me. In the evening I arrived at Little river, and took
up my quarters at a public house on its banks, near its confluence with
the Savanna. This is a beautiful rapid water, about fifty yards over.
On a branch of this river is situated the town of Wrightsborough.
Near the ford, on the banks of this river, I first observed a very
curious shrub, a beautiful evergreen, which appears to be allied to the
Rhododendron, though the seed vessels seem to bear more the
characteristics of the Kalmia. This shrub grows in copses or little
groves, in open, high situations, where trees of large growth are but
scatteringly planted; many simple stems arise together from a root or
source erect, four, five and six feet high; their limbs or branches,
which are produced towards the top of the stems, also stand nearly
erect, lightly diverging from the main stems, which are furnished with
moderately large ovate pointed intire leaves, of a pale or yellowish
green colour; these leaves are of a firm, compact texture, both
surfaces smooth and shining, and stand nearly erect upon short
petioles; the branches terminate with long, loose panicles or spikes of
white flowers, whose segments are five, long and narrow.
I arose early next morning and continued my journey for Fort James.
This day’s progress was agreeably entertaining, from the novelty and
variety of objects and views: the wild country now almost depopulated,
vast forests, expansive plains and detached groves; then chains of
hills whose gravelly, dry, barren summits present detached piles of
rocks, which delude and flatter the hopes and expectations of the
solitary traveller, full sure of hospitable habitations; heaps of
white, gnawed bones of the ancient buffalo, elk and deer,
indiscriminately mixed with those of men, half grown over with moss,
altogether, exhibit scenes of uncultivated nature, on reflection,
perhaps, rather disagreeable to a mind of delicate feelings and
sensibility, since some of these objects recognize past transactions
and events, perhaps not altogether reconcilable to justice and
humanity.
How harmonious and sweetly murmur the purling rills and fleeting
brooks, roving along the shadowy vales, passing through dark,
subterranean caverns, or dashing over steep rocky precipices, their
cold, humid banks condensing the volatile vapours, which falling
coalesce in crystalline drops, on the leaves and elastic twigs of the
aromatic shrubs and incarnate flowers! In these cool, sequestered,
rocky vales, we behold the following celebrated beauties of the hills,
fragrant Calycanthus, blushing Rhododendron ferrugineum, delicate
Philadelphus inodorus, which displays the white wavy mantle, with the
sky robed Delphinium, perfumed Convallaria and fiery Azalea, flaming on
the ascending hills or wavy surface of the gliding brooks. The epithet
fiery, I annex to this most celebrated species of Azalea, as being
expressive of the appearance of it in flowers, which are in general of
the colour of the finest red lead, orange and bright gold, as well as
yellow and cream colour; these various splendid colours are not only in
separate plants, but frequently all the varieties and shades are seen
in separate branches on the same plant, and the clusters of the
blossoms cover the shrubs in such incredible profusion on the hill
sides, that suddenly opening to view from dark shades, we are alarmed
with the apprehension of the hill being set on fire. This is certainly
the most gay and brilliant flowering shrub yet known: it grows in
little copses or clumps, in open forests as well as dark groves, with
other shrubs, and about the bases of hills, especially where brooks and
rivulets wind about them; the bushes seldom rise above six or seven
feet in height, and generally but three, four and five, but branch and
spread their tops greatly; the young leaves are but very small whilst
the shrubs are in bloom, from which circumstance the plant exhibits a
greater show of splendour.
Towards evening I crossed Broad river at a good ford, just above its
confluence with the Savanna, and arrived at Fort James, which is a four
square stockade, with saliant bastions at each angle, mounted with a
block-house, where are some swivel guns, one story higher than the
curtains, which are pierced with loop-holes, breast high, and defended
by small arms. The fortification encloses about an acre of ground,
where is the governor’s or commandant’s house, a good building, which
is flanked on each side by buildings for the officers and barracks for
the garrison, consisting of fifty ranges, including officers, each
having a good horse well equipt, a rifle, two dragoon pistols and a
hanger, besides a powder horn, shot pouch and tomahawk. The fort stands
on an eminence in the forks between the Savanna and Broad rivers, about
one mile above Fort Charlotta, which is situated near the banks of the
Savanna, on the Carolina side. Fort James is situated nearly at an
equal distance from the banks of the two rivers, and from the extreme
point of the land that separates them. The point or peninsula between
the two rivers, for the distance of two miles back from the fort, is
laid out for a town, by the name of Dartmouth, in honour to the earl of
Dartmouth, who, by his interest and influence in the British councils,
obtained from the king a grant and powers in favour of the Indian
trading company of Georgia, to treat with the Creeks for the cession of
a quantity of land sufficient to discharge their debts to the traders,
for the security and defence of which territory this fortress was
established.
This territory, called the New Purchase, contains about two millions of
acres, lying upon the head of Great Ogechee, between the banks of the
Savanna and Alatamaha, touching on the Ocone and taking within its
precincts all the waters of Broad and Little rivers, comprehends a body
of excellent and fertile land, well watered by innumerable rivers,
creeks and brooks.
I made a little excursion up the Savanna river, four or five miles
above the fort, with the surgeon of the garrison, who was so polite as
to attend me to show me some remarkable Indian monuments, which are
worthy of every travellers notice. These wonderful labours of the
ancients stand in a level plain, very near the bank of the river, now
twenty or thirty yards from it. They consist of conical mounts of earth
and four square terraces, &c. The great mount is in the form of a cone,
about forty or fifty feet high, and the circumference of its base two
or three hundred yards, entirely composed of the loamy rich earth of
the low grounds; the top or apex is flat; a spiral path or track
leading from the ground up to the top is still visible, where now grows
a large, beautiful spreading Red Cedar (Juniperus Americana): there
appears four niches, excavated out of the sides of this hill, at
different heights from the base, fronting the four cardinal points;
these niches or sentry boxes are entered into from the winding path,
and seem to have been meant for resting places or look-outs. The
circumjacent level grounds are cleared and planted with Indian Corn at
present, and I think the proprietor of these lands, who accompanied us
to this place, said that the mount itself yielded above one hundred
bushels in one season: the land hereabouts is indeed exceeding fertile
and productive.
It is altogether unknown to us, what could have induced the Indians to
raise such a heap of earth in this place, the ground for a great space
around being subject to inundations, at least once a year, from which
circumstance we may conclude they had no town or settled habitations
here. Some imagine these tumuli were constructed for look-out towers.
It is reasonable to suppose, however, that they were to serve some
important purpose in those days, as they were public works, and would
have required the united labour and attention of a whole nation,
circumstanced as they were, to have constructed one of them almost in
an age. There are several less ones round about the great one, with
some very large tetragon terraces on each side, near one hundred yards
in length, and their surface four, six, eight and ten feet above the
ground on which they stand.
We may however hazard a conjecture, that as there is generally a narrow
space or ridge in these low lands, immediately bordering on the river’s
bank, which is eight or ten feet higher than the adjoining low grounds,
that lie betwixt the stream and the heights of the adjacent main land,
which, when the river overflows its banks, are many feet under water,
when, at the same time, this ridge on the river bank is above water and
dry, and at such inundations appears as an island in the river; these
people might have had a town on this ridge, and this mount raised for a
retreat and refuge in case of inundations, which are unforeseen and
surprise them very suddenly, spring and autumn.
Having finished my collections and observations, which were extended to
a considerable distance in the environs of Dartmouth; May 10th sat off
again, proceeding for Keowe, rode six or eight miles up the river above
the fort, crossed over into Carolina and soon got into the high road,
but had not proceeded far, when I was surprised by a sudden very heavy
shower of rain, attended with terrific thunder, but luckily found
present shelter at a farm house, where I continued above and hour
before its fury abated, when I proceeded again, and notwithstanding
this detention and obstacles in consequence of the heavy rains in
raising the creeks, travelled thirty-five miles, and arrived in the
evening at Mr. Cameron’s, deputy-commissary for Indian affairs for the
Cherokee nation, to whom I was recommended by letters from the
honourable John Stewart, superintendant, residing in Charleston,
mentioning my business in the Cherokee country.
The road this day had led me over an uneven country, its surface
undulated by ridges or chains of hills, sometimes rough with rocks and
stones, yet generally productive of forests, with a variety of
vegetables of inferior growth, i. e. Quercus, various species, Juglans
hickory, varieties, Liriodendron, Fraxinus, Fagus sylvatica, Fagus
castanea, Fagus pumila, s. Chinkapin, Nyssa sylvatica, Acer rubrum,
Æsculus sylvatica, Magnolia acuminata, Magnolia tripetala, Andromeda
arborea, Hopea tinctoria, Æsculus pavia, Viburnum, Azalea flammea and
other species; Hydrangea, Calycanthus, &c.
The season being uncommonly wet, almost daily showers of rain,
frequently attended with tremenduous thunder, rendered travelling
disagreeable, toilsome and hazardous, through an uninhabited
wilderness, abounding with rivers and brooks. I was prevailed upon by
Mr. Cameron to stay at his house a few days, until the rains ceased and
the rivers could be more easily forded.
The Angelica lucido or Nondo grows here in abundance: its aromatic
carminative root is in taste much like that of the Ginseng (Panax)
though more of the taste and scent of Anise-seed: it is in high
estimation with the Indians as well as white inhabitants, and sells at
a great price to the Southern Indians of Florida, who dwell near the
sea coast where this never grows spontaneously. I observed a charming
species of Malva, having panicles of large splended purple or deep blue
flowers; and another species of Malva, very singular indeed, for it is
a climber; the leaves are broad, which, with the whole plant, are
hoary; the flowers are very small, and of a greenish white. Here grows
also in abundance a beautiful species of Delphinium; the flowers differ
in no respect from those of the common branching Larkspur of the
gardens; they are of a fine deep blue colour, and disposed in long
sparsed spikes; the leaves are compound, almost linear, but the
segments not so fine cut as those of the garden Larkspur.
The weather now settled and fair, I prepared to proceed for Fort Prince
George Keowe, having obtained of the agreeable and liberal Mr. Cameron,
ample testimonials and letters of recommendation to the traders in the
nation; this gentleman also very obligingly sent a young Negro slave,
to assist and pilot me as far as Sinica.
May 15th I left Lough-abber, the seat of Mr. Cameron. In the course of
this day’s journey I crossed several rivers and brooks, all branches of
Savanna, now called Keowe, above its confluence with the Tugilo, the
west main branch. The face of the country uneven, by means of ridges of
hills and water courses; the hills somewhat rocky near their summits
and at the banks of rivers and creeks, but very fertile, as there is a
good depth of a loose dark and most vegetative mould, on a stratum of
reddish brown tenacious clay, and sometimes a deep stratum of dusky
brown marl. The vegetable productions observed during this day’s
progress, were generally the same as already recited since leaving
Dartmouth. The flaming Azalea abound and illuminate the hill sides; and
a new and singularly beautiful species of Æsculus pavia, situated above
them, towards the summits of these low hills. This conspicuously
beautiful flowering shrub, grows to the height of five or six feet;
many divergent crooked stems arise together from a root or source,
which dividing their branches, wreath about every way, after a very
irregular and free order; the exterior subdivisions of these limbs
terminate with a heavy cluster or thyrsis of rose or pink coloured
flowers, speckled or variegated with crimson, larger, more expansive
and regular in their formation than those of the Pavia; and these heavy
spikes of flowers, charged with the morning dews, bend the slender
flexile stems to the ground: the compound leaves are of the
configuration of those of the Pavia, but broader and their veins more
prominent. The shrubs growing about the tops of the more barren grassy
hills, where large trees are few and scattered, show themselves to
great advantage, and make a fine appearance.
There are abundance of Grape vines (Vitis vinifera) which ramble and
spread themselves over the shrubs and low trees in these situations,
and I was assured produced fruit affording an excellent juice: the
grapes are of various colours when ripe, of the figure and about the
size of the European wine grapes. Arrived at Sinica in the evening,
after travelling forty-five miles through an uninhabited wilderness.
The Cherokee town of Sinica is a very respectable settlement, situated
on the east bank of the Keowe river, though the greatest number of
Indian habitations are on the opposite shore, where likewise stands the
council-house in a level plain betwixt the river and a range of
beautiful lofty hills, which rise magnificently, and seem to bend over
the green plains and the river: but the chief’s house, with those of
the traders, and some Indian dwellings, are seated on the ascent of the
heights on the opposite shore. This situation in point of prospect far
excels the other, as it overlooks the whole settlement, the extensive
fruitful plains on the river above and below, and the plantations of
the inhabitants, commanding a most comprehensive diversified view of
the opposite elevations.
Sinica is a new town rebuilt since the late Indian war, when the
Cherokees were vanquished and compelled to sue for peace, by general
Middleton, commander of the Carolinian auxiliaries acting against them,
when the lower and middle settlements were broken up: the number of
inhabitants are now estimated at about five hundred, and they are able
to muster about one hundred warriors.
Next day I left Sinica alone, and after riding about sixteen miles,
chiefly through high forests of excellent land at a little distance
from the river, arrived in the evening at fort Prince George Keowe.
Keowe is a most charming situation, and the adjacent heights are
naturally so formed and disposed, as with little expensive of military
architecture to be rendered almost impregnable. It lies in a fertile
vale, at this season, enamelled with the incarnate fragrant
strawberries and blooming plants, through which the beautiful river
meanders, sometimes gently flowing, but more frequently agitated,
gliding swiftly between the fruitful strawberry banks, environed at
various distances by high hills and mountains, some rising boldly
almost upright upon the verge of the expansive lawn, so as to overlook
and shadow it, whilst others more lofty, superb, misty and blue,
majestically mount far above.
The evening still and calm, all silent and peaceable, a vivifying
gentle breeze continually wafted from the fragrant strawberry fields,
and aromatic Calycanthean groves on the surrounding heights; the wary
moor fowl thundering in the distant echoing hills: how the groves and
hills ring with the shrill perpetual voice of the whip-poor-will!
Abandoned as my situation now was, yet thank heaven many objects met
together at this time, and conspired to conciliate, and in some degree
compose my mind, heretofore somewhat dejected and unharmonized: all
alone in a wild Indian country, a thousand miles from my native land,
and a vast distance from any settlements of white people. It is true,
here were some of my own colour, yet they were strangers; and though
friendly and hospitable, their manners and customs of living so
different from what I had been accustomed to, administered but little
to my consolation: some hundred miles yet to travel, the savage
vindictive inhabitants lately ill-treated by the frontier Virginians,
blood being spilt between them and the injury not yet wiped away by
formal treaty: the Cherokees extremely jealous of white people
travelling about their mountains, especially if they should be seen
peeping in amongst the rocks or digging up their earth.
The vale of Keowe is seven or eight miles in extent, that is, from the
little town of Kulsage[48] about a mile above, thence down the river
six or seven miles, where a high ridge of hills on each side of the
river almost terminates the vale, but opens again below the narrow
ridge, and continues ten or twelve miles down to Sinica, and in width
one and two miles. This fertile vale within the remembrance of some old
traders with whom I conversed, was one continued settlement; the
swelling sides of the adjoining hills were then covered with
habitations, and the rich level grounds beneath lying on the river, was
cultivated and planted, which now exhibit a very different spectacle,
humiliating indeed to the present generation, the posterity and feeble
remains of the once potent and renowned Cherokees: the vestiges of the
ancient Indian dwellings are yet visible on the feet of the hills
bordering and fronting on the vale, such as posts or pillars of their
habitations, &c.
There are several Indian mounts or tumuli, and terraces, monuments of
the ancients, at the old site of Keowe, near the fort Prince George,
but no Indian habitations at present; and here are several dwellings
inhabited by white people concerned in the Indian trade; Mr. D. Homes
is the principal trader here.
The old fort Prince George now bears no marks of a fortress, but serves
for a trading house.
[48] Sugar Town.
CHAPTER III.
I waited two or three days at this post, expecting the return of an
Indian who was out hunting. This man was recommended to me as a
suitable person for a protector and guide to the Indian settlements
over the hills, but upon information that he would not be in shortly,
and there being no other person suitable for the purpose, rather than
be detained, and perhaps thereby frustrated in my purposes, determined
to set off alone and run all risks.
I crossed the river at a good ford just below the old fort. The river
here is just one hundred yards over. After an agreeable progress for
about two miles over delightful strawberry plains, and gently swelling
green hills, began to ascend more steep and rocky ridges. Having gained
a very considerable elevation, looking round, I enjoyed a very
comprehensive and delightful view: Keowe, which I had but just lost
sight of, appeared again, and the serpentine river speeding through the
lucid green plain apparently just under my feet. After observing this
delightful landscape, I continued on again three or four miles, keeping
the trading path, which led me over uneven rocky land, and crossing
rivulets and brooks, rapidly descending over rocky precipices; when I
came into a charming vale, embellished with a delightful glittering
river, which meandered through it, and crossed my road. On my left
hand, upon the grassy bases of the rising hills, appeared the remains
of a town of the ancients, as the tumuli, terraces, posts or pillars,
old Peach and Plumb orchards, &c. sufficiently testify. These vales and
swelling bases of the surrounding hills, afford vast crops of excellent
grass and herbage fit for pasturage and hay; of the latter Plantago
Virginica, Sanguisorba, Geum, Fragaria, &c. The Panax quinquefolium, or
Ginseng, now appears plentifully on the North exposure of the hill,
growing out of the rich mellow humid earth amongst the stones or
fragments of rocks.
Having crossed the vales, I began to ascend again the more lofty ridges
of hills, then continued about eight miles over more gentle pyramidal
hills, narrow vales and lawns, the soil exceedingly fertile, producing
lofty forests and odoriferous groves of Calycanthus, near the banks of
rivers, with Halesia, Philadelphus inodorus, Rhododendron ferrugineum,
Azalea, Stewartia montana,[49] fol. ovatis acuminatis serratis, flor.
niveo, staminum corona fulgida, pericarp. pomum exsuccum, apice
acuminato dehiscens, Cornus Florida, Styrax, all in full bloom, and
decorated with the following sweet roving climbers, Bignonia
sempervirens, Big. crucigera, Lonicera sempervirens, Rosa paniculata,
&c.
Now at once the mount divide; and disclose to view the ample Occonne
vale, encircled by a wreath of uniform hills; their swelling bases clad
in cheerful verdure, over which, issuing from between the mountains,
plays along a glittering river, meandering through the meadows.
Crossing these at the upper end of the vale, I began to ascend the
Occonne mountain. On the foot of the hills are the ruins of the ancient
Occonne town. The first step after leaving the verdant beds of the
hills was a very high rocky chain of pointed hills, extremely well
timbered with the following trees: Quercus tinctoria, Querc. alba,
Querc. rubra, Fraxinus excelsior, Juglans hickory, various species,
Ulmus, Tilia, Acer saccharinum, Morus, Juglans nigra, Juglans alba,
Annona glabra, Robinia pseudacacia, Magnolia acuminata, Æsculus
sylvatica, with many more, particularly a species of Robinia new to me,
though perhaps the same as figured and slightly described by Catesby in
his Nat. Hist. Carol. This beautiful flowering tree grows twenty and
thirty feet high, with a crooked leaning trunk; the branches spread
greatly, and wreath about, some almost touching the ground; however
there appears a singular pleasing wildness and freedom in its manner of
growth; the slender subdivisions of the branches terminate with heavy
compound panicles of rose or pink coloured flowers, amidst a wreath of
beautiful pinnated leaves.
My next flight was up a very high peak, to the top of the Occonne
mountain, where I rested; and turning about, found that I was now in a
very elevated situation, from whence I enjoyed a view inexpressibly
magnificent and comprehensive. The mountainous wilderness through which
I had lately traversed down to the region of Augusta, appearing
regularly undulated as the great ocean after a tempest; the undulations
gradually depressing, yet perfectly regular, as the squamma of fish, or
imbrications of tile on a roof: the nearest ground to me of a perfect
full green; next more glaucous; and lastly almost blue as the ether
with which the most distant curve of the horizon seemed to be blended.
My imagination thus wholly engaged in the contemplation of this
magnificent landscape, infinitely varied, and without bound, I was
almost insensible or regardless of the charming objects more within my
reach: a new species of Rhododendron foremost in the assembly of
mountain beauties; next the flaming Azalea, Kalmia latifolia, incarnate
Robinia, snowy mantled Philadelphus inodorus, perfumed Calycanthus, &c.
This species of Rhododendron grows six or seven feet high; many nearly
erect stems arise together from the root, forming a group or coppice.
The leaves are three or four inches in length, of an oblong figure,
broadest toward the extremity, and terminating with an obtuse point;
their upper surface of a deep green and polished; but the nether
surface of a rusty iron colour, which seems to be effected by
innumerable minute reddish vesicles, beneath a fine short downy
pubescence; the numerous flexile branches terminate with a loose spiked
raceme, or cluster of large deep rose coloured flowers, each flower
being affixed in the diffused cluster by a long peduncle, which, with
the whole plant, possess an agreeable perfume.
After being recovered of the fatigue and labour in ascending the
mountain, I began again to prosecute my task, proceeding through a
shady forest, and soon after gained the most elevated crest of the
Occonne mountain, and then began to descend the other side; the winding
rough road carrying me over rocky hills and levels, shaded by
incomparable forests, the soil exceedingly rich, and of an excellent
quality for the production of every vegetable suited to the climate,
and seeming peculiarly adapted for the cultivation of Vines (Vitis
vinifera) Olives (Olea Europea), the Almond tree (Amygdalus communis),
Fig (Ficus carica), and perhaps the Pomgranate (Punica granatum), as
well as Peaches (Amyg. Persica), Prunus, Pyrus, of every variety. I
passed again steep rocky ascents, and then rich levels, where grew many
trees and plants common in Pennsylvania, New-York and even Canada, as
Pinus strobus, Pin. sylvestris, Pin. abies, Acer saccharinum, Acer
striatum, s. Pennysylvanicnm, Populus tremula, Betula nigra, Juglans
alba, &c. but what seems remarkable, the yellow Jessamine (Bignonia
sempervirens), which is killed by a very slight frost in the open air
in Pennsylvania, here on the summits of the Cherokee mountains
associates with the Canadian vegetables, and appears roving with them
in perfect bloom and gaiety; as likewise Halesia diptera, and Hal.
tetraptera, mountain Stewartia, Styrax, Ptelea, and Æsculus pavia, but
all these bear our hardest frosts in Pennsylvania. Now I enter a
charming narrow vale, through which flows a rapid large creek, on whose
banks are happily associated the shrubs already recited, together with
the following; Staphylæa, Euonimus Americana, Hamamelis, Azalea,
various species, Aristolochia frutescens, s. odoratissima, which
rambles over the trees and shrubs on the prolific banks of these
mountain brooks. Passed through magnificent high forests, and then came
upon the borders of an ample meadow on the left, embroidered by the
shade of a high circular amphitheatre of hills, the circular ridges
rising magnificently one over the other. On the green turfy bases of
these ascents appear the ruins of a town of the ancients. The upper end
of this spacious green plain is divided by a promontory or spur of the
ridges before me, which projects into it: my road led me up into an
opening of the ascents through which the glittering brook which watered
the meadows ran rapidly down, dashing and roaring over high rocky
steps. Continued yet ascending until I gained the top of an elevated
rocky ridge, when appeared before me a gap or opening between other yet
more lofty ascents, through which continuing as the rough rocky road
led me, close by the winding banks of a large rapid brook, which at
length turning to the left, pouring down rocky precipices, glided off
through dark groves and high forests, conveying streams of fertility
and pleasure to the fields below.
The surface of the land now for three or four miles is level, yet
uneven, occasioned by natural mounds or rocky knobs, but covered with a
good staple of rich earth, which affords forests of timber trees and
shrubs. After this, gently descending again, I travelled some miles
over a varied situation of ground, exhibiting views of grand forests,
dark detached groves, vales and meadows, as heretofore, and producing
the like vegetable and other works of nature; the meadows affording
exuberant pasturage for cattle, and the bases of the encircling hills,
flowering plants, and fruitful strawberry beds: observed frequently
ruins of the habitations or villages of the ancients. Crossed a
delightful river, the main branch of Tugilo, when I began to ascend
again, first over swelling turfy ridges, varied with groves of stately
forest trees; then ascending again more steep grassy hill sides, rested
on the top of mount Magnolia, which appeared to me to be the highest
ridge of the Cherokee mountains, which separate the waters of Savanna
river from those of the Tanase or greater main branch of the Cherokee
river. This running rapidly a North-West course through the mountains,
is joined from the North-East by the Holstein; thence taking a west
course yet amongst the mountains, receiving into it from either hand
many large rivers, leaves the mountains immediately after being joined
by a large river from the east, becomes a mighty river by the name of
Hogehege, thence meanders many hundred miles through a vast country
consisting of forests, meadows, groves, expansive savannas, fields and
swelling hills, most fertile and delightful, flows into the beautiful
Ohio, and in conjunction with its transparent waters, becomes tributary
to the sovereign Missisippi.
This exalted peak I named mount Magnolia, from a new and beautiful
species of that celebrated family of flowering trees, which here, at
the cascades of Falling Creek, grows in a high degree of perfection: I
had, indeed, noticed this curious tree several times before,
particularly on the high ridges betwixt Sinica and Keowe, and on
ascending the first mountain after leaving Keowe, when I observed it in
flower, but here it flourishes and commands our attention.
This tree,[50] or perhaps rather shrub, rises eighteen to thirty feet
in height; there are usually many stems from a root or source, which
lean a little, or slightly diverge from each other, in this respect
imitating the Magnolia tripetala; the crooked wreathing branches
arising and subdividing from the main stem without order or uniformity,
their extremities turn upwards, producing a very large rosaceous,
perfectly white, double or polypetalous flower, which is of a most
fragrant scent; this fine flower fits in the centre of a radius of very
large leaves, which are of a singular figure, somewhat lanceolate, but
broad towards their extremities, terminated with an acuminated point,
and backwards they attenuate and become very narrow towards their
bases, terminating that way with two long, narrow ears or lappets, one
on each side of the insertion of the petiole; the leaves have only
short footstalks, sitting very near each other, at the extremities of
the floriferous branches, from whence they spread themselves after a
regular order, like the spokes of a wheel, their margins touching or
lightly lapping upon each other, form an expansive umbrella superbly
crowned or crested with the fragrant flower, representing a white
plume; the blossom is succeeded by a very large crimson cone or
strobile, containing a great number of scarlet berries, which, when
ripe, spring from their cells, and are for a time suspended by a white
silky web or thread. The leaves of these trees which grow in a rich,
light humid soil, when fully expanded and at maturity, are frequently
above two feet in length, and six or eight inches where broadest. I
discovered in the maritime parts of Georgia, particularly on the banks
of the Alatamaha, another new species of Magnolia, whose leaves were
nearly of the figure of those of this tree, but they were much less in
size, not more than six or seven inches in length, and the strobile
very small, oblong, sharp pointed, and of a fine deep crimson colour;
but I never saw the flower. These trees grow straight and erect, thirty
feet or more in height, and of a sharp conical form, much resembling
the Cucumber tree (Mag. acuminata) in figure.
The day being remarkably warm and sultry, which, together with the
labour and fatigue of ascending the mountains, made me very thirsty and
in some degree sunk my spirits. Now past mid-day. I sought a cool
shaded retreat, where was water for refreshment and grazing for my
horse, my faithful slave and only companion. After proceeding a little
farther, descending the other side of the mountain, I perceived at some
distance before me, on my right hand, a level plain supporting a grand
high forest and groves: the nearer I approached, my steps were the more
accelerated from the flattering prospect opening to view. I now entered
upon the verge of the dark forest, charming solitude! as I advanced
through the animating shades, observed on the farther grassy verge a
shady grove; thither I directed my steps. On approaching these shades,
between the stately columns of the superb forest trees, presented to
view, rushing from rocky precipices under the shade of the pensile
hills, the unparalleled cascade of Falling Creek, rolling and leaping
off the rocks: the waters uniting below, spread a broad glittering
sheet over a vast convex elivation of plain smooth rocks, and are
immediately received by a spacious bason, where, trembling in the
centre through hurry and agitation, they gently subside, encircling the
painted still verge; from whence gliding swiftly, they soon form a
delightful little river, which continuing to flow more moderately, is
restrained for a moment, gently undulating in a little lake: they then
pass on rapidly to a high perpendicular steep of rocks, from whence
these delightful waters are hurried down with irresistible rapidity. I
here seated myself on the moss-clad rocks, under the shade of spreading
trees and floriferous fragrant shrubs, in full view of the cascades.
At this rural retirement were assembled a charming circle of mountain
vegetable beauties; Magnolia auriculata, Rhododendron ferrugineum,
Kalmia latifolia, Robinia montana, Azalea flammula, Rosa paniculata,
Calycanthus Floridus, Philadelphus inodorus, perfumed Convallaria
majalis, Anemone thalictroides, Anemone hepatica, Erythronium
maculatum, Leontice thalictroides, Trillium fessile, Trillium cesnum,
Cypripedium, Arethusa, Ophrys, Sanguinaria, Viola uvuleria, Epigea,
Mitchella repens, Stewartia, Halesia, Sryrax, Lonicera, &c. Some of
these roving beauties stroll over the mossy, shelving, humid rocks, or
from off the expansive wavy boughs of trees, bending over the floods,
salute their delusive shade, playing on the surface; some plunge their
perfumed heads and bathe their flexile limbs in the silver stream;
whilst others by the mountain breezes are tossed about, their blooming
tufts bespangled with pearly and crystalline dewdrops collected from
the falling mists, glistening in the rainbow arch. Having collected
some valuable specimens at this friendly retreat, I continued my
lonesome pilgrimage. My road for a considerable time led me winding and
turning about the steep rocky hills; the descent of some of which were
very rough and troublesome, by means of fragments of rocks, slippery
clay and talc: but after this I entered a spacious forest, the land
having gradually acquired a more level surface: a pretty grassy vale
appears on my right, through which my wandering path led me, close by
the banks of a delightful creek, which sometimes falling over steps of
rocks, glides gently with serpentine meanders through the meadows.
After crossing this delightful brook and mead, the land rises again
with sublime magnificence, and I am led over hills and vales, groves
and high forests, vocal with the melody of the feathered songsters, the
snow-white cascades glittering on the sides of the distant hills.
It was now after noon; I approached a charming vale, amidst sublimely
high forests, awful shades! Darkness gathers around; far distant
thunder rolls over the trembling hills: the black clouds with august
majesty and power, move slowly forwards, shading regions of towering
hills, and threatning all the destruction of a thunder storm: all
around is now still as death; not a whisper is heard, but a total
inactivity and silence seems to pervade the earth; the birds afraid to
utter a chirrup, and in low tremulous voices take leave of each other,
seeking covert and safety: every insect is silenced, and nothing heard
but the roaring of the approaching hurricane. The mighty cloud now
expands its sable wings, extending from North to South, and is driven
irresistibly on by the tumultuous winds, spreading his livid wings
around the gloomy concave, armed with terrors of thunder and fiery
shafts of lightning. Now the lofty forests bend low beneath its fury;
their limbs and wavy boughs are tossed about and catch hold of each
other; the mountains tremble and seem to reel about, and the ancient
hills to be shaken to their foundations: the furious storm sweeps
along, smoking through the vale and over the resounding hills: the face
of the earth is obscured by the deluge descending from the firmament,
and I am deafened by the din of thunder. The tempestuous scene damps my
spirits, and my horse sinks under me at the tremendous peals, as I
hasten on for the plain.
The storm abating, I saw an Indian hunting cabin on the side of a hill,
a very agreeable prospect, especially in my present condition; I made
up to it and took quiet possession, there being no one to dispute it
with me except a few bats and whip-poor-wills, who had repaired thither
for shelter from the violence of the hurricane.
Having turned out my horse in the sweet meadows adjoining, and found
some dry wood under shelter of the old cabin, I struck up a fire, dried
my clothes, and comforted myself with a frugal repast of biscuit and
dried beef, which was all the food my viaticum afforded me by this
time, excepting a small piece of cheese which I had furnished myself
with at Charleston, and kept till this time.
The night was clear, calm and cool, and I rested quietly. Next morning
at day-break I was awakened and summoned to resume my daily task, by
the shrill cries of the social night hawk and active merry mock-bird.
By the time the rising sun had gilded the tops of the towering hills,
the mountains and vales rang with the harmonious shouts of the pious
and cheerful tenants of the groves and meads.
I observed growing in great abundance in these mountain meadows,
Sanguisorba Canadensis and Heracleum maximum; the latter exhibiting a
fine show, being rendered conspicuous even at a great distance, by its
great height and spread, vast pennatifid leaves and expansive umbels of
snow-white flowers. The swelling bases of the surrounding hills
fronting the meadows, presented for my acceptance the fragrant red
strawberry, in painted beds of many acres surface, indeed I may safely
say many hundreds.
After passing through this meadow, the road led me over the bases of a
ridge of hills, which as a bold promontory dividing the fields I had
just passed, form expansive green lawns. On these towering hills
appeared the ruins of the ancient famous town of Sticoe. Here was a
vast Indian mount or tumulus and great terrace, on which stood the
council-house, with banks encompassing their circus; here were also old
Peach and Plumb orchards; some of the trees appeared yet thriving and
fruitful. Presently after leaving these ruins, the vale and fields are
divided by means of a spur of the mountains pushing forward: here
likewise the road forked; the left-hand path continued up the mountains
to the Overhill towns: I followed the vale to the right hand, and soon
began again to ascend the hills, riding several miles over very rough,
stony land, yielding the like vegetable productions as heretofore; and
descending again gradually, by a dubious winding path, leading into a
narrow vale and lawn, through which rolled on before me a delightful
brook, water of the Tanase. I crossed it and continued a mile or two
down the meadows; when the high mountains on each side suddenly
receding, discovered the opening of the extensive and fruitful vale of
Cowe, through which meanders the head branch of the Tanase, almost from
its source, sixty miles, following its course down to Cowe.
I left the stream for a little while, passing swiftly and foaming over
its rocky bed, lashing the steep craggy banks, and then suddenly sunk
from my sight, murmuring hollow and deep under the rocky surface of the
ground. On my right hand the vale expands, receiving a pretty silvery
brook of water, which came hastily down from the adjacent hills, and
entered the river a little distance before me. I now turn from the
heights on my left, the road leading into the level lawns, to avoid the
hollow rocky grounds, full of holes and cavities, arching over the
river through which the waters are seen gliding along: but the river is
soon liberated from these solitary and gloomy recesses, and appears
waving through the green plain before me. I continued several miles,
pursuing my serpentine path, through and over the meadows and green
fields, and crossing the river, which is here incredibly increased in
size, by the continual accession of brooks flowing in from the hills on
each side, dividing their green turfy beds, forming them into
parterres, vistas and verdant swelling knolls, profusely productive of
flowers and fragrant strawberries, their rich juice dying my horse’s
feet and ancles.
These swelling hills, the prolific beds on which the towering mountains
repose, seem to have been the common situations of the towns of the
acients, as appear from the remaining ruins of them yet to be seen, and
the level rich vale and meadows in front, their planting grounds.
Continue yet ten or twelve miles down the vale, my road leading at
times close to the banks of the river, the Azalea, Kalmia,
Rhododendron, Philadelphus, &c. beautifying his now elevated shores,
and painting the coves with a rich and cheerful scenery, continually
unfolding new prospects as I traverse the shores: the towering
mountains seem continually in motion as I pass along, pompously rising
their superb crests towards the lofty skies, traversing the far distant
horizon.
The Tanase is now greatly increased from the conflux of the multitude
of rivulets and brooks, descending from the hills on either side,
generously contributing to establish his future fame, already a
spacious river.
The mountains recede, the vale expands; two beautiful rivulets stream
down through lateral vales, gliding in serpentine mazes over the green
turfy knolls, and enter the Tanase nearly opposite to each other.
Straight forward the expansive green vale seems yet infinite: now on
the right hand a lofty pyramidal hill terminates a spur of the adjacent
mountain, and advances almost into the river; but immediately after
doubling this promontory, an expanded wing of the vale spreads on my
right, down which came precipitately a very beautiful creek, which
flowed into the river just before me; but now behold, high upon the
side of a distant mountain overlooking the vale, the fountain of this
brisk-flowing creek; the uparalleled waterfall appears as a vast
edifice with crystal front, or a field of ice lying on the bosom of the
hill.
I now approach the river at the fording place, which was greatly swolen
by the floods of rain that fell the day before, and ran with foaming
rapidity; but observing that it had fallen several feet perpendicular,
and perceiving the bottom or bed of the river to be level, and covered
evenly with pebbles, I ventured to cross over; however I was obliged to
swim two or three yards at the deepest chanel of it, and landed safely
on the banks of a fine meadow, which lay on the opposite shore, where I
immediately alighted and spread abroad on the turf my linen, books, and
specimens of plants, &c. to dry, turned out my steed to graze, and then
avanced into to the strawberry plains to regale on the fragrant,
delicious fruit, welcomed by communities of the splendid meleagris, the
capricious roe-buck and all the free and happy tribes, which possess
and inhabit those prolific fields, who appeared to invite and joined
with me in the participation of the bountiful repast presented to us
from the lap of nature.
I mounted again and followed the trading path about a quarter of a mile
through the fields, then gently ascended the green beds of the hills,
and entered the forests, being a point of a chain of hills projecting
into the green vale or low lands of the rivers. This forest continued
about a mile, the surface of the land level but rough, being covered
with stones or fragments of rocks, and very large, smooth pebbles of
various shapes and sizes, some of ten or fifteen pounds weight: I
observed on each side of the road many vast heaps of these stones,
Indian graves undoubtedly[51].
After I left the graves, the ample vale soon offered on my right hand,
through the tall forest trees, charming views, which exhibited a
pleasing contrast, immediately out of the gloomy shades and scenes of
death, into expansive, lucid, green, flowery fields, expanding between
retiring hills and turfy eminences, the rapid Tanase gliding through,
as a vast serpent rushing after his prey.
My winding path now leads me again over the green fields into the
meadows, sometimes visiting the decorated banks of the river, as it
meanders through the meadows, or boldy sweeps along the bases of the
mountains, its surface receiving the images reflected from the flowery
banks above.
Thus was my agreeable progress for about fifteen miles, since I came
upon the sources of the Tanase, at the head of this charming vale: in
the evening espying a human habitation at the foot of the sloping green
hills, beneath lofty forests of the mountains on the left hand, and at
the same time observing a man crossing the river from the opposite
shore in a canoe and coming towards me, I waited his approach, who
hailing me, I answered I was for Cowe; he entreated me very civilly to
call at his house, adding, that he would presently come to me.
I was received and entertained here until next day with the most
perfect civility. After I had dined, towards evening, a company of
Indian girls, inhabitants of a village in the hills at a small
distance, called, having baskets of strawberries; and this man, who
kept here a trading-house, being married to a Cherokee woman of family,
was indulged to keep a stock of cattle, and his helpmate being an
excellent house-wife and a very agreeable good woman, treated us with
cream and strawberries.
Next morning, after breakfasting on excellent coffee, relished with
bucanned venison, hot corn cakes, excellent butter and cheese, sat
forwards again for Cowe, which was about fifteen miles distance,
keeping the trading path which coursed through the low lands between
the hills and the river, now spacious and well beaten by travellers,
but somewhat intricate to a stranger, from the frequent collateral
roads falling into it from villages or towns over the hills. After
riding about four miles mostly through fields and plantations, the soil
incredibly fertile, arrived at the town of Echoe, consisting of many
good houses, well inhabited. I passed through, and continued three
miles farther to Nucasse, and three miles more brought me to Whatoga.
Riding through this large town, the road carried me winding about
through their little plantations of Corn, Beans, &c. up to the
council-house, which was a very large dome or rotunda, situated on the
top of an ancient artificial mount, and here my road terminated. All
before me and on every side appeared little plantations of young Corn,
Beans, &c. divided from each other by narrow strips or borders of
grass, which marked the bounds of each one’s property, their habitation
standing in the midst. Finding no common high road to lead me through
the town, I was now at a stand how to proceed farther, when observing
an Indian man at the door of his habitation, three or four hundred
yards distance from me, beckoning to come to him, I ventured to ride
through their lots, being careful to do no injury to the young plants,
the rising hopes of their labour and industry; crossed a little grassy
vale watered by a silver stream, which gently undulated through, then
ascended a green hill to the house, where I was cheerfully welcomed at
the door, and led in by the chief, giving the care of my horse to two
handsome youths, his sons. During my continuance here, about half an
hour, I experienced the most perfect and agreeable hospitality
conferred on me by these happy people; I mean happy in their
dispositions, in their apprehensions of rectitude with regard to our
social or moral conduct. O divine simplicity and truth, friendship
without fallacy or guile, hospitality disinterested, native, undefiled,
unmodifyed by artificial refinements!
My venerable host gracefully and with an air of respect, led me into an
airy, cool apartment, where being seated on cabins, his women brought
in a refreshing repast, consisting of sodden venison, hot corn cakes,
&c. with a pleasant cooling liquor made of hommony well boiled, mixed
afterwards with milk; this is served up, either before or after eating
in a large bowl, with a very large spoon or ladle to sup it with.
After partaking of this simple but healthy and liberal collation and
the dishes cleared off, Tobacco and pipes were brought; and the chief
filling one of them, whose stem, about four feet long, was sheathed in
a beautiful speckled snake skin, and adorned with feathers and strings
of wampum, lights it and smokes a few whiffs, puffing the smoke first
towards the sun, then to the four cardinal points, and lastly over my
breast, hands it towards me, which I cheerfully received from him and
smoked; when we fell into conversation. He first enquired if I came
from Charleston? if I knew John Stewart, Esq,? how long since I left
Charleston? &c. Having satisfied him in my answers in the best manner I
could, he was greatly pleased, which I was convinced of by his
attention to me, his cheerful manners, and his ordering my horse a
plentiful bait of corn, which last instance of respect is conferred on
those only to whom they manifest the highest esteem, saying that corn
was given by the Great Spirit only for food to man.
I acquainted this ancient prince and patriarch of the nature and design
of my peregrinations, and that I was now for Cowe, but having lost my
road in the town, requested that I might be informed. He cheerfully
replied, that he was pleased I was come in their country, where I
should meet with friendship and protection, and that he would himself
lead me into the right path.
After ordering my horse to the door, we went forth together, he on
foot, and I leading my horse by the bridle, thus walking together near
two miles, we shook hands and parted, he returning home, and I
continuing my journey for Cowe.
This prince is the chief of Whatoga, a man universally beloved, and
particularly esteemed by the whites for his pacific and equitable
disposition, and revered by all for his exemplary virtues, just,
moderate, magnanimous and intrepid.
He was tall and perfectly formed; his countenance cheerful and lofty,
and at the same time truly characteristic of the red men, that is, the
brow ferocious and the eye active, piercing or fiery, as an eagle. He
appeared to be about sixty years of age, yet upright and muscular, and
his limbs active as youth.
After leaving my princely friend, I travelled about five miles through
old plantations, now under grass, but which appeared to have been
planted the last season; the soil exceeding fertile, loose, black, deep
and fat. I arrived at Cowe about noon. This settlement is esteemed the
capital town: it is situated on the bases of the hills on both sides of
the river, near to its bank, and here terminates the great vale of
Cowe, exhibiting one of the most charming natural mountainous
landscapes perhaps any where to be seen; ridges of hills rising grand
and sublimely one above and beyond another, some boldly and
majestically advancing into the verdant plain, their feet bathed with
the silver flood of the Tanase, whilst others far distant, veiled in
blue mists, sublimely mounting aloft with yet greater majesty lift up
their pompous crests, and overlook vast regions.
The vale is closed at Cowe by a ridge of mighty hills, called the Jore
mountain, said to be the highest land in the Cherokee country, which
crosses the Tanase here.
On my arrival at this town I waited on the gentlemen to whom I was
recommended by letter, and was received with respect and every
demonstration of hospitality and friendship.
I took my residence with Mr. Galahan the chief trader here, an ancient
respectable man who had been many years a trader in this country, and
is esteemed and beloved by the Indians for his humanity, probity and
equitable dealings with them, which, to be just and candid I am obliged
to observe (and blush for my countrymen at the recital) is somewhat of
a prodigy, as it is a fact, I am afraid too true, that the white
traders in their commerce with the Indians, give great and frequent
occasions of complaint of their dishonesty and violence; but yet there
are a few exceptions, as in the conduct of this gentleman, who
furnishes a living instance of the truth of the old proverb, that
“Honesty is the best policy,” for this old honest Hibernian has often
been protected by the Indians, when all others round about him have
been ruined, their property seized, and themselves driven out of the
country or slain by the injured, provoked natives.
Next day after my arrival I crossed the river in a canoe, on a visit to
a trader who resided amongst the habitations on the other shore.
After dinner, on his mentioning some curious scenes amongst the hills,
some miles distance from the river, we agreed to spend the afternoon in
observations on the mountains.
After riding near two miles through Indian plantations of Corn, which
was well cultivated, kept clean of weeds, and was well advanced, being
near eighteen inches in height, and the Beans planted at the Corn-hills
were above ground; we left the fields on our right, turning towards the
mountains, and ascending through a delightful green vale or lawn, which
conducted us in amongst the pyramidal hills, and crossing a brisk
flowing creek, meandering through the meads, which continued near two
miles, dividing and branching in amongst the hills. We then mounted
their steep ascents, rising gradually by ridges or steps one above
another, frequently crossing narrow fertile dales as we ascended: the
air felt cool and animating, being charged with the fragrant breath of
the mountain beauties, the blooming mountain cluster Rose, blushing
Rhododendron and fair Lily of the valley. Having now attained the
summit of this very elevated ridge, we enjoyed a fine prospect indeed;
the enchanting Vale of Keowe, perhaps as celebrated for fertility,
fruitfulness and beautiful prospects as the Fields of Pharsalia or the
Vale of Tempe; the town, the elevated peaks of the Jore mountains, a
very distant prospect of the Jore village in a beautiful lawn, lifted
up many thousand feet higher than our present situation, besides a view
of many other villages and settlements on the sides of the mountains,
at various distances and elevations; the silver rivulets gliding by
them and snow white cataracts glimmering on the sides of the lofty
hills; the bold promontories of the Jore mountain stepping into the
Tanase river, whilst his foaming waters rushed between them.
After viewing this very entertaining scene, we began to descend the
mountain on the other side, which exhibited the same order of
gradations of ridges and vales as on our ascent, and at length rested
on a very expansive, fertile plain, amidst the towering hills, over
which we rode a long time, through magnificent high forests, extensive
green fields, meadows and lawns. Here had formerly been a very
flourishing settlement; but the Indians deserted it in search of fresh
planting land, which they soon found in a rich vale but a few miles
distance over a ridge of hills. Soon after entering on these charming,
sequestered, prolific fields, we came to a fine little river, which
crossing, and riding over fruitful strawberry beds and green lawns, on
the sides of a circular ridge of hills in front of us, and going round
the bases of this promontory, came to a fine meadow on an arm of the
vale, through which meandered a brook, its humid vapours bedewing the
fragrant strawberries which hung in heavy red clusters over the grassy
verge. We crossed the rivulet, then rising a sloping, green, turfy
ascent, alighted on the borders of a grand forest of stately trees,
which we penetrated on foot a little distance to a horse-stamp, where
was a large squadron of those useful creatures, belonging to my friend
and companion, the trader, on the sight of whom they assembled together
from all quarters; some at a distance saluted him with shrill neighings
of gratitude, or came prancing up to lick the salt out of his hand,
whilst the younger and more timorous came galloping onward, but coyly
wheeled off, and fetching a circuit stood aloof; but as soon as their
lord and master strewed the crystalline salty bait on the hard beaten
ground, they all, old and young, docile and timorous, soon formed
themselves in ranks, and fell to licking up the delicious morsel.
It was a fine sight: more beautiful creatures I never saw; there were
of them of all colours, sizes and dispositions. Every year, as they
become of age he sends off a troop of them down to Charleston, where
they are sold to the highest bidder.
Having paid our attention to this useful part of the creation, who, if
they are under our dominion, have consequently a right to our
protection and favour, we returned to our trusty servants that were
regaling themselves in the exuberant sweet pastures and strawberry
fields in sight, and mounted again. Proceeding on our return to town,
continued through part of this high forest skirting on the meadows:
began to ascend the hills of a ridge which we were under the necessity
of crossing; and having gained its summit, enjoyed a most enchanting
view; a vast expanse of green meadows and strawberry fields; a
meandering river gliding through, saluting in its various turnings the
swelling, green, turfy knolls, embellished with parterres of flowers
and fruitful strawberry beds; flocks of turkeys strolling about them;
herds of deer prancing in the meads or bounding over the hills;
companies of young, innocent Cherokee virgins, some busy gathering the
rich fragrant fruit, others having already filled their baskets, lay
reclined under the shade of floriferous and fragrant native bowers of
Magnolia, Azalea, Philadelphus, perfumed Calycanthus, sweet Yellow
Jessamine and cerulian Glycine frutescens, disclosing their beauties to
the fluttering breeze, and bathing their limbs in the cool fleeting
streams; whilst other parties, more gay and libertine, were yet
collecting strawberries, or wantonly chasing their companions,
tantalising them, staining their lips and cheeks with the rich fruit.
This sylvan scene of primitive innocence was enchanting, and perhaps
too enticing for hearty young men long to continue idle spectators.
In fine, nature prevailing over reason, we wished at least to have a
more active part in their delicious sports. Thus precipitately
resolving, we cautiously made our approaches, yet undiscovered, almost
to the joyous scene of action. Now, although we meant no other than an
innocent frolic with this gay assembly of hamadryades, we shall leave
it to the person of feeling and sensibility to form an idea to what
lengths our passions might have hurried us, thus warmed and excited,
had it not been for the vigilance and care of some envious matrons who
lay in ambush, and espying us, gave the alarm, time enough for the
nymphs to rally and assemble together. We however pursued and gained
ground on a group of them, who had incautiously strolled to a greater
distance from their guardians, and finding their retreat now like to be
cut off, took shelter under cover of a little grove; but on perceiving
themselves to be discovered by us, kept their station, peeping through
the bushes; when observing our approaches, they confidently discovered
themselves, and decently advanced to meet us, half unveiling their
blooming faces, incarnated with the modest maiden blush, and with
native innocence and cheerfulness presented their little baskets,
merrily telling us their fruit was ripe and sound.
We accepted a basket, sat down and regaled ourselves on the delicious
fruit, encircled by the whole assembly of the innocently jocose sylvan
nymphs: by this time the several parties under the conduct of the elder
matrons, had disposed themselves in companies on the green, turfy
banks.
My young companion, the trader, by concessions and suitable apologies
for the bold intrusion, having compromised the matter with them,
engaged them to bring their collections to his house at a stipulated
price: we parted friendly.
And now taking leave of these Elysian fields, we again mounted the
hills, which we crossed, and traversing obliquely their flowery beds,
arrived in town in the cool of the evening.
[49] This is a new species of Stewartia, unknown to the European
botanists, and not mentioned in any catalogues.
[50] Magnolia auriculata.
[51] At this place was fought a bloody and decisive battle between
these Indians and the Carolinians, under the conduct of general
Middleton, when a great number of Cherokee warriors were slain, which
shook their power, terrified and humbled them, insomuch that they
deserted most of their settlements in the low countries, and betook
themselves to the mountains as less accessible to the regular forces
of the white people.
CHAPTER IV.
After waiting two days at Cowe expecting a guide and protector to the
Overhill towns, and at last being disappointed, I resolved to pursue
the journey alone, though against the advice of the traders; the
Overhill Indians being in an ill humour with the whites, in consequence
of some late skirmishes between them and the frontier Virginians, most
of the Overhill traders having left the nation.
Early in the morning I sat off attended by my worthy old friend Mr.
Gallahan, who obligingly accompanied me near fifteen miles. We passed
through the Jore village, which is pleasingly situated in a little vale
on the side of the mountain; a pretty rivulet or creek winds about
through the vale, just under the village: here I observed a little
grove of the Casine yapon, which was the only place I had seen it grow
in the Cherokee country; the Indians call it the beloved tree, and are
very careful to keep it pruned and cultivated: they drink a very strong
infusion of the leaves, buds and tender branches of this plant, which
is so celebrated, indeed venerated by the Creeks and all the Southern
maritime nations of Indians. We then continued travelling down the vale
about two miles, the road deviating, turning and winding about the
hills, and through groves and lawns, watered by brooks and rivulets,
rapidly rushing from the towering hill on every side, and flowing into
the Jore, which is a considerable branch of the Tanase.
Began now to ascend the mountain, following a small arm or branch of
the vale, which led to a gap or narrow defile, compressed by the high
pending hills on each side, down which came rapidly a considerable
branch of the Jore, dashing and roaring over rocky precipices.
Now leaving Roaring creek on our right, and accomplishing two or three
ascents or ridges, another branch of the trading path from the
Overhills to Cowe came in on our right, and here my transitory
companion Mr. Gallahan parted from me, taking this road back to Cowe;
when I was left again wandering alone in the dreary mountains, not
indeed totally pathless, nor in my present situation entirely
agreeable, although such scenes of primitive unmodified nature always
pleased me.
May we suppose that mankind feel in their hearts a predilection for the
society of each other; or are we delighted with scenes of human arts
and cultivation, where the passions are flattered and entertained with
variety of objects for gratification?
I found myself unable, notwithstanding the attentive admonitions and
pursuasive arguments of reason, entirely to erase from my mind those
impressions which I had received from the society of the amiable and
polite inhabitants of Charleston; and I could not help comparing my
present situation in some degree to Nebuchadnezzar’s, when expelled
from the society of men, and constrained to roam in the mountains and
wilderness, there to herd and feed with the wild beasts of the forest.
After parting with my late companion, I went forward with all the
alacrity that prudence would admit of, that I might as soon as possible
see the end of my toil and hazard, being determined at all events to
cross the Jore mountain, said to be the highest land in the Cherokee
country.
After a gentle descent, I entered on an extremely stony narrow vale,
through which coasted swiftly a large creek, twelve or fifteen yards
wide, roaring over a rocky bed, which I crossed with difficulty and
danger, the ford being incommoded by shelving rocks, full of holes and
cliffs. After leaving this rocky creek, my path led me upon another
narrow vale or glade, down which came in great haste another noisy
brook, which I repeatedly crossed and recrossed, sometimes riding on
narrow level grassy verges close to its banks; still ascending, the
vale gradually terminated, being shut up by stupendous rocky hills on
each side, leaving a very narrow gap or defile, towards which my road
led me, ascending the steep sides of the mountains; when, after rising
several wearisome ascents, and finding myself over-heated and tired, I
halted at a little grassy lawn, through which meandered a sweet
rivulet. Here I turned my horse to graze, and sat down to rest on a
green bank just beneath a high frowning promontory, or obtuse point of
a ridge of the mountain yet above me, the friendly rivulet making a
circuit by my feet; and now a little rested, I took out of my wallet
some biscuit and cheese, and a piece of neat’s tongue, composing myself
to ease and refreshment: when suddenly appeared within a few yards,
advancing towards me from behind the point, a stout likely young Indian
fellow, armed with a rifle gun, and two dogs attending. Upon sight of
me he stood, and seemed a little surprised, as I was very much; but
instantly recollecting himself and assuming a countenance of benignity
and cheerfulness, he came briskly to me and shook hands heartily, and
smilingly enquired from whence I came, and whither going; but speaking
only in the Cherokee tongue, our conversation was not continued to a
great length. I presented him with some choice Tobacco, which was
accepted with courtesy and evident pleasure, and to my enquiries
concerning the roads and distance to the Overhill towns, he answered me
with perfect cheerfulness and good temper. We then again shook hands,
and parted in friendship; he descended the hills, singing as he went.