American loaf of bread; neatly pare, then cut them into heart-shaped
croûtons. Lay them on a tin plate, drip a little clarified butter over
them, place in the hot oven for four minutes, to let get a good golden
color. Take from out the oven, and use when required.
=134. Croûtons Soufflés.=--Make some pâté-à-chou (No. 1240), spread it
out to the thickness of macaroni, and cut with a knife the size of a
pea. Put them in a sieve, sprinkle with flour, shake well, and fry in
hot lard; when done, which will take five minutes, drain through a
cloth, and serve with the soup when needed.
A pinch of salt represents 205 grains, or a tablespoonful.
Half a pinch of pepper represents 38 grains, or a teaspoonful.
A third of a pinch of nutmeg represents 13 grains, or half a
teaspoonful.
STOCKS, SAUCES, FORCEMEATS, AND GARNISHINGS.
=135. White-Roux.=--Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, and place it
on the corner of the hot range, add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour;
keep stirring constantly for seven minutes. Then let it cool, and when
cold, use in various sauces, as directed.
=136. Brown-Roux.=--Place two ounces of good butter in a saucepan on the
hot range; mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook rapidly for
about seven minutes, or until it assumes a rich brown color. Let it
thoroughly cool off, and then use in different sauces, as mentioned.
=137. White Stock--for one gallon.=--Reduce in saucepan on the hot
range, one ounce of very good, finely shred, salt pork, previously well
washed, and the same of beef suet. Add one carrot, one onion, a bouquet
of aromatic herbs (No. 254), twelve whole peppers, and four cloves.
Brown these well on a moderate fire for four minutes. Add four ounces of
flour; stir well, and moisten with a glassful of white wine and three
quarts of white broth (No. 99). Add one tablespoonful of salt, and stir
until it comes to a boil; then let it cook thoroughly for one hour;
strain through a fine sieve. This stock should be used without any
further thickening.
=138. Mirepoix.=--Stew in a saucepan two ounces of fat, two carrots, one
onion, one sprig of thyme, one bay-leaf, six whole peppers, three
cloves, and, if handy, a ham bone cut into pieces. Add two sprigs of
celery and half a bunch of parsley roots; cook for fifteen minutes, and
use when directed in other recipes. Scraps of baked veal may also be
added, if at hand.
=139. Marinade Stock, cooked--for one gallon.=--Stew together a finely
sliced sound onion and four parsley roots, adding one pint of vinegar
and four quarts of fresh water, also a quarter of a bunch of thyme, six
bay-leaves, twenty-four whole peppers, and twelve cloves. Cook well for
thirty minutes on a brisk fire, then place in a stone jar, and keep it
in a cool place for general use.
=140. Marinade Stock, raw--for six persons.=--Finely slice one
medium-sized, sound, peeled onion, place it in an earthen crock, with
three slices of lemon, two bay-leaves, twelve whole peppers, four
cloves, three whole mace, and three sprigs of parsley roots. Add to
these two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, a cupful of vinegar, and a pinch
of salt. Place the meat or fish in this, and leave it to souse as long
as necessary, or about six hours.
=141. Meat Glaze--Glace de Viande.=--As this meat glaze, when properly
made, will keep in perfect condition for any length of time, I would
advise that half a pint be made at a time, in the following manner.
Place in a large saucepan ten quarts of white broth (No. 99), or nine
quarts of consommé (No. 100), and reduce it on a moderate fire for fully
four hours, at which time it should be reduced to half a pint. Transfer
it in a stone jar or bowl; put a cover on, and keep in a cool place for
general use.
=142. Court Bouillon.=--Cut up one good-sized, peeled and well-washed
carrot, with a sound onion, and half a bunch of parsley roots, also cut
up; brown them in a glassful of white or red wine, according to the
fish; add to it any well-washed pieces of fish-heads and a pint of
water. Season with half a pinch each of salt and pepper. Boil well for
five minutes; let cool; strain through a napkin or a sieve into a jar,
and use when needed. Always avoid straining anything acid into tin or
copper vessels--to prevent blackening.
=143. Cooked Fine Herbs.=--Chop up one sound onion and two well-peeled
shallots; brown them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, for five
minutes, then add double the quantity of finely minced mushrooms and a
grain of garlic; season with half a tablespoonful of salt and a
teaspoonful of pepper, and finish with a tablespoonful of chopped
parsley. Cook ten minutes longer, and then let it cool.
=144. Raw Fine Herbs.=--Chop separately, half an onion, two shallots,
two sprigs of parsley, four hairs of chives, and the same of chervil;
mix thoroughly before using.
=145. Butter, maître d’hôtel.=--Put one ounce of good butter in a bowl
with a teaspoonful of very finely chopped parsley, adding the juice of
half a sound lemon. Mingle well with a very little nutmeg, and keep it
in a cool place to use when needed.
=146. Anchovy Butter.=--To one ounce of good butter, add one teaspoonful
of anchovy essence; mix well, and keep it on ice--for general use.
=147. Butter à la Ravigote.=--Pound together in a mortar one sprig of
parsley, the same of tarragon, very little chives, the same of chervil,
and one small, peeled shallot. Add half a teaspoonful of anchovy
essence, one ounce of good butter, and half a drop of spinach-green. Rub
through a fine sieve, and keep it in a cool place for general use.
=148. Horseradish Butter.=--Pound in a mortar one teaspoonful of grated
horseradish with one ounce of good butter, and season with very little
red pepper--third of a saltspoonful. Rub through a fine sieve, and keep
it in a cool place. When this butter is added to other sauces, it should
not boil again.
=149. Lobster Butter.=--Extract the coral from one cooked lobster (the
eggs may be used instead); pound it in a mortar to a paste, mixing it
with one ounce of good butter and a teaspoonful of mustard. Rub through
a fine sieve, and keep in a cool place. The butter can also be used for
coloring purposes.
=150. Crawfish Butter.=--Pick the meat from the tails of twelve boiled
crawfish; dry the shells, and pound them all together in a mortar,
adding one ounce of good butter; then place it in a saucepan on a
moderate fire, stirring, until it clarifies, for about five minutes;
then strain through a napkin, letting it drop into cold water. When it
is congealed, take it out, and place it in a warm basin, stirring until
it assumes the desired color. The same method can be used for lobsters
and shrimps.
=151. Sauce Espagnole--for one gallon.=--Mix one pint of raw, strong
mirepoix (No. 138) with two ounces of good fat (chicken’s fat is
preferable). Mix with the compound four ounces of flour, and moisten
with one gallon of white broth (No. 99). Stir well, and then add, if
handy, some baked veal and ham bones. Boil for three hours, and then
remove the fat very carefully; rub the sauce through a very fine sieve,
and keep it for many purposes in cooking.
=152. Sauce Velouté.=--Melt one ounce of good butter in a saucepan,
adding two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well, not letting it get
brown. Moisten with a pint and a half of good veal and chicken stock,
the stronger the better. Throw in a garnished bouquet (No. 254), half a
cupful of mushroom liquor, if at hand, six whole peppers, half a pinch
of salt, and a very little nutmeg. Boil for twenty minutes, stirring
continuously with a wooden spatula; then remove to the side of the fire,
skim thoroughly, and let it continue simmering slowly for one hour. Then
rub through a fine sieve. This sauce will make the foundation for any
kind of good white stock.
=153. Sauce Villeroi.=--Strain and place in a saucepan with one ounce of
butter, two tablespoonfuls of raw mirepoix (No. 138), adding two
tablespoonfuls of flour. Cook, and mix well together for five minutes;
moisten with three pints of white broth (No. 99), and season with half a
tablespoonful of salt. Boil for one hour; then strain through a fine
sieve and use when needed.
=154. Béchamel Sauce.=--Place in a saucepan two ounces of butter, add
two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir constantly for five minutes.
Moisten with a pint and a half of boiling milk, being careful to pour it
in gradually; then beat it well with a whisk. Add half a teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, a pinch of salt, a bouquet (No. 254), twelve whole
peppers, and a little mushroom liquor, if at hand. Cook well for fifteen
minutes, and when done rub through a fine sieve.
=155. Melted Butter Sauce.=--Put one ounce of good butter in a saucepan
on a slow fire, stir, and when melted add the juice of half a lemon.
Serve in a sauce bowl.
=156. Nut-brown Butter Sauce.=--Place one ounce of good butter in a
frying-pan, let it heat until it assumes a nut-brown color, then add one
drop of vinegar, and use when needed.
=157. Black Butter Sauce.=--Warm one ounce of good butter in the
frying-pan until it becomes brown; add six parsley leaves, heat again
for one minute, then throw in five drops of vinegar. Pour it into a
sauce-bowl and serve.
=158. Lobster Sauce.=--Pour one pint of Hollandaise sauce (No. 160) into
a saucepan; place it on the hot stove, but do not allow it to boil. Add
the claw of a good-sized boiled lobster cut into lozenge-shaped pieces;
heat well for five minutes, stirring it lightly, add a quarter of an
ounce of lobster butter (No. 149), and serve when needed.
=159. Drawn-Butter Sauce.=--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan,
adding two tablespoonfuls of flour while stirring; moisten with one
quart of water, and season with one tablespoonful of salt and half a
teaspoonful of pepper. Let it simmer on the side of the stove for thirty
minutes until it thickens; then add, little by little, half an ounce of
butter, beating it continuously until it becomes perfectly white.
Squeeze in the juice of a lemon; stir once more, strain through a hair
sieve and serve.
=160. Sauce Hollandaise.=--Place one sound, sliced onion, six whole
peppers and a bay-leaf in a saucepan with two ounces of good butter on
the hot stove; stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour to thicken, then
moisten with a pint and a half of either chicken or white broth (No.
99); mix well with a whisk or wooden spatula, being careful to remove
any accumulated fat. Add half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and half a
tablespoonful of salt, and cook for twenty-five minutes. Beat the yolks
of three eggs separately with the juice of half a medium-sized sound
lemon. Pour them gradually into the sauce, being careful not to boil it
again after they have been added. Rub through a hair sieve into a
serving bowl, and finish with half an ounce of good butter, mixing it
well, and serve.
=161. Egg Sauce.=--Use one pint of the Hollandaise sauce (No. 160), and
when ready to serve sprinkle it with two chopped hard-boiled eggs and a
teaspoonful of minced parsley.
=162. Bread Sauce.=--Crumble one and a half ounces of fresh bread
crumbs, and place them in a saucepan with not quite half a cupful of
cold water; add half an ounce of butter, half a tablespoonful of salt,
and six whole peppers. Cook for five minutes; then pour in half a cupful
of cream or milk. Cook again for five minutes, and serve in a
sauce-bowl, removing the peppers.
=163. Anchovy Sauce.=--To three-quarters of a pint of drawn-butter
sauce (No. 159), or Hollandaise sauce (No. 160), add one tablespoonful
of anchovy essence; beat well together and serve.
=164. Horseradish Sauce.=--Add two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish
to three-quarters of a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 154); also half a
pinch of powdered sugar, a third of a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half
a pinch of salt. Boil for five minutes. Should the sauce be too thick
add a little cream or milk, and three drops of vinegar in case the
horseradish be fresh.
=165. Sauce Percillade.=--Pour half a cupful of sweet oil into an
earthen bowl with the juice of half a lemon, half a tablespoonful of
salt, and a scant teaspoonful of pepper. Beat well with a spoon or
whisk, adding one teaspoonful of parsley, half the quantity of chervil,
the same of tarragon and chives all chopped very fine together, and a
teaspoonful of mustard. Mix the whole well before serving.
=166. Sauce Béarnaise.=--Chop very fine two medium-sized, sound,
well-peeled shallots; place them in a small saucepan on the hot range,
with two tablespoonfuls of either tarragon or chervil vinegar, and five
whole crushed peppers. Reduce until nearly dry, then put away to cool.
Mingle with it six fresh raw egg yolks, sharply stirring meanwhile, then
gradually add one and a half ounce of good fresh butter; seasoning with
half a tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and
twelve finely chopped sound tarragon leaves. Have a much wider pan on
the fire with boiling water, place the small one containing the
ingredients into the other, and see that the boiling water reaches up to
half its height; thoroughly heat up, beating briskly with the whisk;
when the sauce is firm add one teaspoonful of melted meat-glaze (No.
141), beat lightly for two seconds longer, then strain through an
ordinary, clean kitchen towel, neatly arrange the sauce on a hot dish to
be sent to the table; and dress over it any article required to be
served.
=167. Sauce Trianon.=--The same as for Béarnaise sauce (No. 166), but
pour the sauce over the article to be served, instead of under; finish
with two medium-sized sliced truffles, nicely arranged on top.
=168. Apple Sauce.=--Core, peel and quarter four sour apples. Place them
in a saucepan with half a glassful of water, half a tablespoonful of
salt, and two ounces of sugar. Cover and cook for about twenty-five
minutes, or until the apples are reduced to a marmalade; then strain
through a colander, and add the third of a pinch of cinnamon, if
necessary.
=169. Mint Sauce.=--Take one-quarter of a bunch of finely minced
mint-leaves, moistening with half a cupful of water and half a cupful of
broth (No. 99), or consommé (No. 100); add four tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, a tablespoonful of salt, and half an ounce of sugar; stir well
and serve in a sauce-bowl.
=170. Green Sauce.=--Pound in a mortar one sprig of parsley and three
hairs of chervil; add three medium-sized vinegar-pickles, half a small,
white onion, one anchovy, and a teaspoonful of capers. Mix these with
soaked bread the size of an egg, and pound all well together. When the
preparation is reduced to a paste, rub it through a fine sieve, put it
in a bowl and stir well, adding half a cupful of sweet oil, two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a
tablespoonful of salt. This sauce must be consistent and of a green
color.
=171. Suprême Sauce.=--Clean thoroughly the carcass of one raw chicken
and place it in a saucepan, covering it with water; cook quickly, and at
the first boil take it off, drain and wash the carcass well. Put it back
into a very clean saucepan, covering it with one quart of white broth
(No. 99), adding a bouquet (No. 254) and half a tablespoonful of salt.
Cook for forty-five minutes; have two tablespoonfuls of white roux (No.
135) separate; pour the broth over it, continuing to stir; reduce to
half, and strain through a fine Chinese strainer. Add half a cupful of
good cream and an ounce of fresh butter and finish with the juice of
half a lemon.
=172. Tarragon Sauce.=--Put half a pint sauce velouté (No. 152) to boil
in a saucepan on the hot stove. Add half a cupful of white broth (No.
99) and two sprigs of tarragon. Season with a very little salt, and cook
for ten minutes. Cut up very fine, and add to the sauce when serving
twelve blanched tarragon leaves.
=173. Oyster Sauce.=--Open eighteen medium-sized, fine Shrewsbury
oysters and put them in a saucepan with one ounce of good butter,
placing the pan on the stove. Cook for four minutes; remove half the
liquid from the pan and add a pint of hot Allemande sauce (No. 210).
Then with the spatula mix lightly together without allowing it to boil,
and serve.
=174. Indian Sauce.=--Brown in a saucepan one sliced onion, one ounce of
raw lean ham, one sprig of thyme, and twelve whole peppers, with one
ounce of butter. Add a teaspoonful of powdered curry diluted in a pint
of sauce velouté (No. 152); boil for ten minutes. Then strain through a
Chinese strainer into another saucepan, being careful to pour in half a
cupful of cream, the juice of half a lemon and two egg yolks. Then
serve.
=175. Sauce Normande, for Fish.=--To a pint of sauce velouté (No. 152)
add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Reduce the sauce for ten
minutes, and place in it two tablespoonfuls of fish-stock (No. 214). Let
it just boil again, then add two egg yolks and the juice of half a
lemon; strain through a fine sieve and stir in half an ounce of fresh
butter. This sauce should be consistent.
=175½. Normande, garnishing for Meat.=--Neatly peel and wash well twelve
celery knobs, drain, and then place six of them in a saucepan with one
tablespoonful of butter, one pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and
a gill of white broth (No. 99), and cook for twenty minutes on a
moderate fire; then mash them as you would potatoes; when thoroughly
mashed place them in a warm place for further action. Take the other six
celery knobs, cut out very carefully the centres with the aid of a
vegetable scoop, leaving about half an inch uncut at the bottom to
prevent burning. Season with one pinch of salt only, evenly divided.
Stuff them with the above farce; then place them in a saucepan with half
a medium-sized, sound, scraped and sliced carrot, half a peeled and
sliced onion, and a tablespoonful of butter. Cook three minutes on a
moderate fire. Add a wine-glassful of good cider and a gill of white
broth (No. 99). Cook again for twenty minutes. Arrange the remaining
mashed celery in the centre of the hot serving dish, place the meat over
it, nicely surround the dish with the six stuffed celery knobs, strain
the gravy over, arranging a small piece of cooked cauliflower on top of
each, and serve very hot.
=176. Sauce à la Toulouse.=--To a pint of Hollandaise sauce (No. 160)
add two tablespoonfuls of white wine, one sliced truffle, and six minced
mushrooms. Heat well without boiling, and when serving add a little
meat-glaze (No. 141).
=177. Sauce maître d’hôtel, liée.=--Add to half a pint of warm
Hollandaise sauce (No. 160), a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half an
ounce of butter, a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful
of nutmeg; then serve.
=178. Shrimp Sauce.=--Place half an ounce of shrimp butter (No. 150) in
half a pint of Hollandaise sauce (No. 160); stir well on the fire for
five minutes, and when ready to serve add twelve picked shrimp tails and
the juice of half a lemon. Heat without boiling, and serve.
=179. Sauce à la Venitienne.=--Reduce for four minutes one tablespoonful
of tarragon-vinegar and chervil-vinegar with six whole peppers, one
ounce of lean cooked ham cut into small dice, six parsley roots, one
sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf. Then strain through a napkin into a
bowl; moisten with half a pint of sauce velouté (No. 152), and finish
the sauce with twelve leaves of finely cut tarragon, two drops of
spinach green, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
=180. Sauce à la Matelote.=--Reduce for five minutes one glassful of
good red wine with a bouquet (No. 254) and a small glassful of mushroom
liquor; then add half a pint of velouté (No. 152) and boil for five
minutes. Strain, and then add the third of a tablespoonful of salt and a
scant teaspoonful of pepper, and throw in twelve small, cooked, glazed
onions (No. 972), four mushrooms cut into quarters, and one ounce of
cooked salt pork cut in dice. Cook again for five minutes, and serve.
=181. Cream Sauce.=--Take half a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 154); add
half an ounce of butter, and beat them together carefully, adding half a
cupful of sweet cream. Then serve.
=182. Sauce à l’Aurore.=--To half a pint of hot, highly seasoned
béchamel sauce (No. 154) in a saucepan add a small glassful of mushroom
liquor, half an ounce of butter, and three tablespoonfuls of very red
tomato sauce (No. 205). Stir well on the fire for five minutes, then add
square cuts of six whole mushrooms, and serve.
=183. Sauce à la Duchesse.=--Cut up in small dice-shaped pieces half an
ounce of cooked ham and two truffles, place these in a saucepan on the
fire, with half a wine-glassful of white wine; let reduce for three
minutes on a brisk fire. Add one gill of good tomato sauce (No. 205).
Boil for one minute with a tablespoonful of glace de viande (No. 141).
Add half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 210). Toss well while heating,
but do not allow to boil again, and serve very hot.
=184. Sauce Princesse.=--Take eighteen chicken quenelles, two truffles
cut in slices, and one blanched chicken liver cut in dice shape; place
all in a saucepan on the fire with half a glassful of white wine, and
let reduce for three minutes; then add one tablespoonful of glace de
viande (No. 141), let come to a boil; add half a pint of good Allemande
sauce (No. 210). Toss well together, but do not allow to boil, and serve
very hot.
=185. Sauce Demi-Glace, or Madeira.=--Add one small glassful of mushroom
liquor to one pint of good Espagnole sauce (No. 151); also a small
glassful of Madeira wine, a bouquet (No. 254), and a scant teaspoonful
of pepper. Remove the fat carefully and cook for thirty minutes, leaving
the sauce in a rather liquid state; then strain and use when needed.
This takes the place of all Madeira sauces.
=186. Sauce Bordelaise.=--Chop up two shallots very fine; put them with
half a glassful of red wine in a saucepan on the fire, reduce to half,
and then add three-quarters of a pint of good Espagnole sauce (No. 151)
and a scant teaspoonful of red pepper. Cook for twenty minutes, and
before serving place eighteen round slices of blanched marron in the
sauce.
=187. Sauce à la Génoise.=--Strain about two tablespoonfuls of cooked
mirepoix (No. 138), and moisten it with half a glassful of red wine;
reduce to half on the hot stove, then add half a pint of Espagnole (No.
151), two tablespoonfuls of white broth (No. 99), and a scant
tablespoonful of pepper. Cook for ten minutes, then strain through a
sieve; put in half an ounce of good butter and a teaspoonful of anchovy
sauce (No. 163), and serve.
=188. Sauce Italienne.=--Brown two medium-sized, fine, peeled, and
chopped-up shallots in a saucepan with a quarter of an ounce of butter,
adding half an ounce of cooked, lean ham cut into small dice shape, four
minced mushrooms, one finely minced truffle, and a glassful of Madeira
wine. Let all cook together for five minutes; then add half a pint of
Espagnole sauce (No. 151); let it then come to a boil, and serve very
hot.
=189. Sauce Duxelle.=--Reduce half a pint of Madeira sauce (No. 185)
with half a glassful of white wine; add to it twelve very finely chopped
mushrooms, two shallots also chopped up and browned in a very little
butter for five minutes, and half an ounce of chopped, cooked
beef-tongue. Boil again for five minutes and serve.
=190. Sauce Colbert.=--Put in a saucepan half a pint of very thick
Madeira sauce (No. 185); add to it very gradually one ounce of good,
fresh butter, also two tablespoonfuls of meat-glaze (No. 141). Mix well
together without boiling; then squeeze in the juice of half a sound
lemon, and add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley when serving.
=191. Sauce Perigueux.=--Chop up very fine two fine truffles; place them
in a sautoire with a glassful of Madeira wine. Reduce on the hot stove
for five minutes. Add half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. 151). Just
allow to come to a boil, and serve very hot.
=192. Sauce Robert.=--Slice half an onion and fry it in a saucepan with
half an ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar until it is of a
golden color, or about five minutes; then moisten with half a glassful
of white wine and half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. 151). Boil for ten
minutes; then add a teaspoonful of dry English mustard, diluted in cold
broth or gravy; stir carefully, and finally rub through a hair sieve and
serve.