of Cain, and that their colour is the mark which the Deity set upon
their great progenitor, on account of the murder of his brother Abel.
Others imagine that the negroes have proceeded from the loins of Ham;
and that he was rendered black by the hard cursing of his father Noah.
As to Noah’s curse producing this effect, if such a notion deserves any
thing but ridicule, it may be observed, that the descendants of Ham
occupied Africa; and that here the inhabitants are not all black. In
that part of Asia too, where it is supposed the descendants of Seth, a
favourite son, reside, the people are full as black as any of the
negroes of Africa.
The heat of the climate cannot be the cause of blackness in negroes; for
a great part of the continent of America lies within the Torrid Zone,
and {229} yet there were no black people here until Europeans
transported them thither from Africa.
Climate, education, modes of living, customs and manners, do, no doubt,
affect the form, aspect, and features of individuals; but all these
causes are not sufficient to produce a total change in complexion or any
other particular.
About the middle of June I arrived at New-Orleans. The general aspect of
the city, viewed at a little distance from it, is much in its favour. It
appears large, ancient, and populous. I entered the city at noon day.
Its streets were crowded with people of every description. Perhaps no
place in the world, excepting Vienna, contains a greater variety of the
human race than New-Orleans. Besides foreigners of all nations, there
are here a various population peculiarly its own. These are of every
shade of complexion. Here may be seen in the same crowd Creoles,
Quadroons, mulattoes, Samboes, Mustizos, Indians, and Negroes; and there
are other commixtures which are not yet classified. As to negroes, I may
add that whilst in this place I saw one who was perfectly white. This
peculiarity, however, is rarely witnessed in this country.
Dissipation in New-Orleans is unlimited. Here men may be vicious without
incurring the ill opinion of those around them:—for all go one way. Here
broad indeed is the road to ruin; and an insulated spectator, sees the
multitude passing down the stream of pleasure to the gulf of remorse.
Surrounded by the fascinations of wealth, the blandishments of beauty,
and the bewitching influences of music, they do not realize that they
are losing the dignity of their nature, and preparing for themselves the
most bitter self-reproach:—they do not realize that an eternity cannot
undo an ignoble deed.
“Fair laughs the morn, and soft the zephyr blows;
While proudly riding o’er the azure realm,
In gallant trim the gilded vessel goes,—
Youth on the prow, and Pleasure at the helm!
Regardless of the sweeping whirlwind’s sway,
Which, hush’d in grim repose, expects his ev’ning prey.”
The gambling houses in this city are almost innumerable, and at any
hour, either by night or day, the bustle of these demoralizing
establishments may be heard. Here too, the Sabbath is devoted to
recreation. On this day the negroes assemble, and amuse themselves and
spectators by dancing. Religion, in behalf of the slave, has thus
benevolently wrested one day in seven from hardhearted avarice.
I am happy in being able to say, that New-Orleans is much less corrupt,
in many particulars, than it used to be. The American population there
is rapidly increasing; and New-England customs, manners and habits, are
there gaining ground. This population will, no doubt, be contaminated;
but it is sincerely hoped that there will be a balance in favour of
morality. The police of this place is still in the hands of the French.
The city of New-Orleans is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi,
about eighty-five miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The city stands
immediately upon the bank, and upon a curve or bend in the river. The
land here, like the whole country below Natches, and indeed generally
below the mouth of the Ohio, is low and level. The water is kept from
flowing into the city by a Levee or embankment, which was raised by the
Spanish government. The Levee extends from Fort Plaquemine, about forty
miles below the city, to one hundred and twenty miles above it. This
embankment is about four feet high and fifteen feet wide. A great deal
{231} has been said respecting this road; but it is not deserving of
much notice. The undertaking was not great, and its execution displays
no ingenuity or neatness. All the market-people bring their produce upon
the Levee; and here the inhabitants of the place take their evening
walk.
The city extends, on the river, about a mile and a quarter; and its
breadth is about a half mile. The streets cross each other at right
angles, and the side walks of some of them are paved with flat stones or
bricks. Most of the streets are narrow. On the river side of the city
the buildings are large, and many of them are built of brick and covered
with slate or plaster; but those on the back of the place are very
small, and consist of wood. The former are compact, and the latter
scattered. From the Levee to the buildings fronting the river the
distance is about seven rods. At the upper part of the city, near the
river, is the Custom-House; and at the lower part of it is the Fort and
Cantonment. Not far from these is a spacious establishment, which is
occupied by an association of Nuns. The Cathedral stands near the centre
of the town.
The streets near the Levee are generally crowded with thousands of
women, who are employed in vending fruits and goods. There is in this
city much female beauty:—fine features, symmetry of form, and elegance
of manners; but the virtuous man often perceives in these the fatal
testimony of moral aberration. Here the fascinations of accomplished
dissipation move in the guise of delicacy, and captivate the youthful
heart; but the moralist views their momentary and belittling influence,
with the indifference,—not of pride, but of reason, religion, and
sentiment. Youths of my country, to conquer ourselves is victory
indeed!—to foil temptation in the doubtful field, is imperishable
renown!
{232} New-Orleans is situated on the island of Orleans. This island is
formed by the Mississippi, the Lakes Pontchartrain and Maurepas, and the
river Ibberville. The latter river is an outlet of the Mississippi
fifteen or eighteen miles below Baton Rouge. Lake Pontchartrain is about
thirty miles long, and nearly the same distance in breadth. Its depth is
ten or fifteen feet. Lake Maurepas is about ten miles long, and seven or
eight broad.
It may here be observed that the Louisiana purchase was made in 1803.
This territory is of immense extent; but its boundaries are doubtful. It
would be well for the government to satisfy themselves upon the subject,
and to run their lines, and establish their forts without delay. Seasons
of public tranquillity are the seasons for such business.
The city of New-Orleans is a place of immense business. In the course of
fifty years it will probably be, in a mercantile point of view, second
to none in the world. At this place inland and maritime commerce combine
their energies. An immense tract of the most productive country in the
world, is continually sending its produce, through a thousand channels,
to this great mart. Already five or six hundred vessels, some of which
are very large, may occasionally be seen lying at the Levee; and upon
this embankment are vast piles of produce of every description. Foreign
vessels frequently arrive here with from 500,000 to 1,000,000 dollars in
specie, for the purpose of purchasing cargoes of sugar, cotton, and
tobacco. Perhaps in no place is specie more plenty, or more free in its
circulation than at New-Orleans. The banks here sometimes refuse to
receive it as a deposit. From the future imports into this city, and the
shipping employed here, the General Government will derive an immense
revenue. The country above is more and {233} more supplied with foreign
goods from New-Orleans, by steam boats and other vessels, instead of
receiving them, as formerly, from Baltimore and Philadelphia, by the way
of Pittsburg; and from Richmond by the rivers Cumberland and Tennessee.
Vast quantities of provisions of every kind, proceed from the Ohio, the
Mississippi, and their tributaries, for the consumption of the people of
New-Orleans, for ship stores, and for foreign markets. The immense value
and rapid rise of real estate in this place, proves the flourishing
condition of its trade. A small lot of land there is almost a fortune;
and a large building lets for 3000 dollars per year,—an interest upon
50,000. Within twelve months, real estate there has risen from fifty to
seventy-five per cent.
New-Orleans is, no doubt, an unhealthy place; but I believe it is much
less so than is generally supposed. Much might be done to improve it in
this respect. When the municipal concerns of this city shall be directed
by Americans, which will probably be very soon, the place will become
less unhealthy and less dissipated than it is. In this case, people who
now go thither merely for the purposes of trade, will permanently reside
there, and will, of course, be more interested in the destinies of the
place. The police of the city is, at present, quite inefficient. Murders
here are frequent, and sometimes not enquired into; and the streets are
suffered to be very dirty. It may be observed too, that but little
respect is paid to the dead at New-Orleans. The burying-ground lies in
the heart of the city, is in an exposed situation, and the surface of it
is covered with human bones. People here generally go armed,
particularly the Spaniards, French, and Portuguese. Owing to the
unhealthiness of this place, its principal characters spend the summer
months at {234} the Eastward, and in some cases at the Bay of St. Louis,
situated about fifty miles from the city.[199] This is said to be a
healthy situation. The American population at New-Orleans are
hospitable.
The orange groves, and the Levee, at and near this place, and which
travellers have glowingly described, by no means equal their
representations. Of the latter I have already spoken, and as to the
former they are small and unflourishing.
The market, at New-Orleans, is very long and spacious. Near this place
are a great many poultry-boats, which are employed in bringing poultry
from the plantations in the vicinity. The beef in the market is very
inferior. Owing to the climate, or bad management, the cattle, although
large and elegant, are poor. All the wealth of New-Orleans could not
purchase there a piece of any kind of flesh equal to what is every day
seen in the New-England markets. Vegetables are plenty at New-Orleans,
but provisions of every kind are here very high. Turkies are from four
to six dollars apiece, fowls one dollar each, beef about twenty cents,
and butter seventy-five cents per pound. The best boarding here is
eighty dollars per month. Some of the hotels are superb establishments.
Money is here easily obtained and expended; its circulation is free.
Wages are here very high, and labourers in great demand. Indolence
characterizes a portion of the people. There are two theatres and a
circus at New-Orleans. The principal season for amusement is the winter.
In the summer, a very considerable proportion of the population leave
the city, and during this period but little business, comparatively, is
done.
I have mentioned the Nunnery at New-Orleans.[200] In entering some of
the apartments of this interesting seclusion, I was much less disposed
to censure than to venerate the motives of its inmates. Man {235} is a
religious being: and he often realizes that this world is not his home.
This is particularly the case in seasons of affliction. Here the human
mind, sensible of its unworthiness, and of its dependence upon God,
seeks the favour of that Being, who only can forgive and render happy.
When the affections of man are weaned from the world, he sighs for the
purity and peace of heaven. Human society no longer interests him. He
wishes well to mankind; but prefers to their society, the seclusions of
meditation. Sometimes this is the immediate effect of the spirit of
regeneration; and sometimes it proceeds from the loss of some earthly
friend, upon whom the heart continually dwelt; and in whom it might be
said to move and have its being:—some friend, the remembrance of whose
lovely life,—whose almost superhuman aspect, manner, and converse,
alienates the affections from earth, and points them, with a pure and
tranquil spirit, to an anticipated reunion in a better world.
Under such circumstances have females, of the most enlightened minds,
and purest hearts, received the veil.
There is, probably, in New-Orleans and its vicinity, a population of
about 40,000. About a third part of these may be presumed to be slaves.
The French here are more numerous than any other distinct class. Among
them are many persons, who have lately emigrated from France. Some of
these persons are gentlemen of great talents and noble principles. It
seems unnatural that they should have left their native country in the
hour of her adversity; but, no doubt, their object is to preserve their
lives, in this land of liberty, for the service of France when she shall
again be true to herself. Colonel L. who was at the fatal battle of
Waterloo, is a real Frenchman. He considers Buonaparte a {236} great and
good man; but says, that in several instances he acted imprudently. The
Colonel almost hates his country for abandoning that great General, who
had so long defended France, and who had acquired for her unparalleled
fame. France was, indeed, great; and Frenchmen have had much cause for
pride. All Europe combined for her subjugation. The coalition of a world
was necessary to subdue a single nation, acting under the auspices of
the mighty genius of her Emperor. This man, even in his humiliation, is
the terror of all Europe; and this terror arises from their sense of his
superiority. All Europe are now engaged in legislating upon this
wonderful character; whole fleets are employed in guarding him; and vast
armies are stationed on the confines of France, to prevent the rise of
that spirit which he had created in her bosom. Shame to England! shame
to her Continental allies! Why do not these Powers who boast of their
strength and their magnanimity, leave this King of men to choose his own
residence? He overthrew Monarchs, but he did not trample upon them,—he
generously restored them their crowns and their liberty. If England,—if
the powers of the continent wish to destroy Buonaparte, why do they not
issue, at once, an order for his execution? Why do they disgrace
themselves, by the infliction of contemptible privations? Well may this
great man say, when deprived of that liberty which is essential to
health, “if these proceedings should be fatal to me, I bequeath my death
to the reigning house of England.”
I am not sensible of any undue partiality for France. I wish, in this
world of error, to be a candid spectator of passing events, and, in my
humble sphere, to approve of what is great, and to censure what is mean.
Many persons cannot bear the name of France, on account of the horrors
of her Revolution; {237} but they should reflect, that these excesses
were the natural consequence of oppression. The Monarchy of France was
corrupt and tyrannical. Her religion was foul, and deceptive. When the
light of liberty shone upon the recesses of her pollutions, the people
were shocked; and in a paroxism of astonishment, and indignation,
declared that the Christian Religion itself was a mere name. Did not
England go as far as this? Previous to the Restoration, her Parliament
declared the Decalogue to be without authority.
Opposite the City of New-Orleans the river is more than a mile wide. The
channel is very deep, and the current rapid. Boats, destined for the
city, are sometimes swept down the stream for several miles, before they
can make a landing. The inhabitants of the place procure all their water
from the Mississippi; but it is generally filtered before using. The
boatmen, however, drink it as it is; and some suppose it, in this state,
conducive to health. It must not, however, be taken from the eddies.
The numerous stories, which have so often been circulated, and believed,
respecting the cruel modes of fighting, prevalent among the boatmen of
the west, are, generally speaking, untrue. During the whole of my tour,
I did not witness one engagement, or see a single person, who bore those
marks of violence which proceed from the inhuman mode of fighting, said
to exist in the west, particularly in Kentucky and Tennessee. The
society of this part of the world is becoming less savage, and more
refined.
The judicial proceedings at New-Orleans are recorded both in the French
and English languages; and the juries there consist of men of both
nations. In all cases, excepting those of a criminal nature, the Code
Napoleon prevails; but in criminal cases, {238} the Common Law is the
rule of action. Here genius is not trammelled by the rules of special
pleading. The allegations of the parties, if intelligible, have to
encounter no quibbles.
The science of special pleading is, no doubt, a science purely logical;
and so far the courts of New-Orleans recognize it; but in the
New-England states many rules, in relation to this subject, which have
no foundation in reason, and which are the vestiges of ancient
sophistry, are adhered to, by some of our lawyers, with all the pedantry
of ignorance, and the pertinacity of dullness. Many a genius has left
the bar of our judicial tribunals, because he would not consent to argue
upon rules which had no foundation in common sense, and to quibble upon
points, upon which effrontery and nonsense may prevail over modesty and
reason.
The lawyers in New-Orleans acquire immense fortunes by their profession;
and it may be added, that physicians and surgeons are equally
successful. It requires almost a fortune there to fee a lawyer, or to
obtain medical advice; and real estate is so valuable, that actions upon
land titles often involve several hundred thousand dollars.
In this city, a building is about being erected for a Presbyterian
society. Over this congregation, the Rev. Mr. Larned is to be ordained.
The eloquence of this gentleman is highly spoken of.
There is, perhaps, no place in the civilized world, where the influence
of the gospel is more needed than at New-Orleans. There the light of
Revelation exists; but the people walk in moral darkness. The thunder of
divine displeasure alone can arouse them from their deep slumber. It
may, indeed, be supposed, that they are “dead in trespasses and sins.”
Here I may observe, that the success of the gospel {239} depends, _as
far as it respects human means_, upon modes of preaching; and these
modes should always have a reference to the education and habits of the
people. Where there is little or no sense of the obligations of
morality, it is truly unwise to expatiate upon abstruse doctrinal
points. It is very doubtful whether discussions upon the mysterious
parts of scripture are ever useful; and it is certain that such
discussions are often productive of contention, discouragement, and
unbelief. Although a layman, I would respectfully recommend to some of
our clergy, to doubt their own wisdom; to suspect their ability to
understand those secret things which belong unto God; and to take with
them the following words of the son of Sirach:—“Seek not out the things
which are too hard for thee, neither search the things which are above
thy strength; but what is _commanded_, think thou upon with
_reverence_.”
The love of money in New-Orleans is conspicuous; and the vast sums,
which may there be accumulated, render keen the spirit of avarice. This
spirit is too prevalent throughout the United States, and much fraud is
the consequence of it. It is truly disgusting to hear people continually
inquiring respecting this and that man’s property; as though property
was the only subject worthy of remark, and the only test of merit.
The love of wealth in this country is making rapid inroads upon the love
of principle; and nothing can retard its progress but the exclusive
patronage of virtue and talents.
These two last terms constitute true taste; and this should be the only
distinction in society. The distinction of wealth is odious; and that of
birth is nonsensical. Neither is learning the _exclusive_ test of merit.
High talents may exist without much learning, {240} and can easily
overthrow the tinsel of the schools. Integrity, noble principles,
polished sentiments, and a becoming deportment, constitute the real
gentleman; and such a man, whether he originated in a palace, or in a
straw-built shed, is an ornament to society, and an honour to any
company.
There are, no doubt, public and private advantages in wealth. As a
motive, it enlists the passions in behalf of science, industry, and
commercial enterprise; but no man is justified in desiring a great
estate, excepting for the purpose of aiding private charity, and
institutions which have in view the welfare of mankind. Gold and silver
are of consequence to a state, both as a circulating medium, and as a
means of dividing property, and distributing it to those, whose gains
are small, and whose pecuniary independence is important both to them
and to the community; but those who regard this shining dross more than
justice and prudence warrant, ought to be despised. Compared with the
vast estates frequently accumulated for selfish purposes, mankind want
but little. Artificial views incur unnecessary expenses, and fraud is
frequently made to cater for their discharge.
It may be supposed that I ought, ere this stage in my tour, to have
mentioned some particular, relative to the prevailing manners and
customs of the people situated in those parts of the country through
which I passed. But my course did not lead me through many settled
places, and I met with no peculiarities, in relation to this subject,
worthy of remark. Indeed, the Yankees are so scattered over the whole
country, and their influence in society is generally so considerable,
that their habits and modes of living are, in a greater or less degree,
imitated every where. These observations apply particularly to that part
of the country west of the Ohio. At {241} New-Orleans, the population
being principally French, the manners and customs of the place are,
generally speaking, peculiar to them.
Upon my arrival at New-Orleans, and in looking back upon my course, I
could not but be forcibly impressed with the wonderful wealth and
physical force of the United States. In comparing the present situation
of the country with what it was when first discovered by Europeans, the
mind is astonished; and in dwelling upon its probable increase, in the
course of one hundred years, numbers fail, and calculation becomes
alarmed. Here too, the hand of Providence is visible in the discovery
and settlement of the country; in the protection of the infant colonies
of our forefathers, and in the great events of our history to the
present time. With reference to these ideas, the thoughts of the
Psalmist interestingly apply:—“Unto thee will I give the land of Canaan,
the lot of your inheritance.” And again: “When there were but a few men
in number, yea, very few, and strangers in it; He suffered no man to do
them wrong!—He reproved _kings_ for their sakes.”