in hydraulics. The machine was set to work; and, although constructed
with bad wood and bad iron, and erected by Arabian carpenters and
bricklayers, it was a question whether it did not draw six or seven
times as much water as the common machines. The Bashaw, after long
consideration, gave his decision; and declared, that it drew up only
four times as much. It is to be observed, that the water produced by
this machine was measured by comparison with the water procured by six
of their own; and that, at the time of measuring, the Arabs urged their
animals at such a rate, that they could not have continued their
exertion above an hour; and for the moment they produced nearly double
the quantity of water, that was usually obtained. Notwithstanding all
this, the calculation of the Bashaw was to my satisfaction, as it
decided on the accomplishment of my undertaking. Still Mahommed Ali
perceived plainly the prejudice among the Arabs, and some of the Turks,
who were concerned in the cultivation of the land: for instead of four
hundred people, and four hundred oxen, they would have only to command
one hundred of each, which would make a considerable difference in their
profits: but, as it happened, an accident occurred, that put an end to
all their fears.
The Bashaw took it into his head to have the oxen taken out of the
wheel, in order to see, by way of frolic, what effect the machine would
have by putting fifteen men into it. James, the Irish lad in my service,
entered along with them; but no sooner had the wheel turned once round,
than they all jumped out, leaving the lad alone in it. The wheel, of
course, overbalanced by the weight of the water, turned back with such
velocity, that the catch was unable to stop it. The lad was thrown out,
and in the fall broke one of his thighs. I contrived to stop the wheel
before it did farther injury, which might have been fatal to him. The
Turks have a belief, that, when such accidents happen in the
commencement of any new invention, it is a bad omen. In consequence of
this, exclusive of the prejudice against the machine itself, the Bashaw
had been persuaded to abandon the affair. It had been stated to him,
also, that it cost as much as four of the usual machines in making,
while nothing was said of the advantages as to the oxen, that would be
saved in the working of it. The business ended in this manner; and all
that was due to me from the Bashaw was consigned to oblivion, as well as
the stipulation I had made with him.
It was with considerable pain to my feelings, that I reflected on the
idea of leaving a country, which has ever been one of the principal
points of research among the learned. The fame of its antiquity excited
in me the desire of investigation; but, under the circumstances I have
mentioned, my purse would not afford the expenses of a journey to any
great distance; and having Mrs. Belzoni with me, it required some
deliberation, before I could decide, whether I should proceed to the
north or to the south. I had been to visit the consul-general, but
nothing more was said respecting the colossal head; so that the project
of removing it seemed to have been forgotten. After having taken all
matters into consideration, and made a proper calculation of the
expenses, I found, that in an economical way I could make a voyage as
far as Assouan and back again.
From the circumstances that follow, the reader will be able to form a
proper idea of the motives by which I was induced to undertake the
removal of the Memnonium bust, which is now lodged in the British
Museum; and for what purpose I made the researches, and accumulated the
various remains of antiquity, which will find a place in this volume.
There will be no occasion for me to enter into such particulars as would
call for the evidence of others to the facts, as I am well assured, that
a simple statement of the case will make the reader perfectly acquainted
with it.
It has been erroneously stated, that I was regularly employed by Mr.
Salt, the consul-general of his Britannic majesty in Egypt, for the
purpose of bringing the colossal bust from Thebes to Alexandria. I
positively deny that I was ever engaged by him in any shape whatever,
either by words or writing; as I have proofs of the case being on the
contrary. When I ascended the Nile, the first and second time, I had no
other idea in my mind, but that I was making researches for antiquities,
which were to be placed in the British Museum; and it is naturally to be
supposed that I would not have made these excursions, had I been
previously aware, that all I found was for the benefit of a gentleman,
whom I never had the pleasure to see before in my life. But what has
displeased me above all is, that while occupied in my researches an
advantage has been taken, and a notion promulgated, the very reverse of
the real matter of fact; and I am sorry I cannot be silent on the
subject, feeling it an indispensable duty to myself, as well as the
public, to bring the truth to light. I am happy, however, to state, that
I succeeded in putting all the articles of my discovery on their way to
the British Museum, though not in the same manner in which I thought
they were to be entered in that place at first, as was the case with the
young Memnon head.
The indecision, whether I should go up or down the Nile, came at last to
a point. I know not what to call it, whether curiosity, or that
enthusiasm for antiquities, which I can trace from my younger days while
in Rome, that spurred me on to decide to ascend the Nile.
Agreeably to the resolution I had taken, I hired a boat at a very cheap
rate, with four sailors, a boy, and the Reis, or captain. I made
provision for the voyage, and every thing was ready for our departure.
Any one may ascend the Nile without being interrupted; but it is better
to obtain a firman from the Bashaw, in case of the want of protection
from any of his Beys, Cacheffs, or Caimakans, in Upper Egypt; and
Mahomet Ali was always ready to give a firman to any one who asked for
it. I communicated my intended departure to Mr. Burckhardt, who, on
hearing that nothing more was said about taking away the colossal head,
seemed to be quite disappointed. Being a native of that part of Italy
which had lately come under the Austrian dominions, I might have applied
to the Austrian consul, to obtain a firman from the Bashaw: but as I
enjoyed the British protection, I applied to the British consul. Going
to his house for the purpose, I found Mr. Burckhardt there: it seems he
had persuaded the consul to avail himself of the opportunity of my
ascending the Nile, by offering to pay half the expense. Accordingly,
when I informed the consul of my intended journey, and that I came to
request he would do me the favour to obtain a firman for me from the
Bashaw, he expressed his joy by exclaiming, “This is a godsend indeed!”
and I was then informed, that they had made up their minds to have the
colossus conveyed down the Nile, and to offer it as a present to the
British Museum, if I would kindly undertake the removal of it. I replied
that my capacity was little, but that I would use all my efforts to
succeed in the enterprise; adding that I should be happy at all times to
increase the British Museum with the product of my exertions. To which
the British consul answered, “And I shall be glad to do every thing in
my power to promote your wishes.” This was all that passed on either
side.
As I was unacquainted with the upper country, I received instructions
concerning the manner in which I was to proceed, to obtain information,
and to provide myself with implements for the purpose in view. The
instructions were as follow:
“Boolak, June 28, 1816.
“Mr. Belzoni is requested to prepare the necessary implements, at
Boolak, for the purpose of raising the head of the statue of the younger
Memnon, and carrying it down the Nile. He will proceed as speedily as
circumstances will allow, to Siout, there to deliver his letters,
prepared for that effect, to Ibrahim Bashaw, or whoever may be left in
the charge of the government; and he will, at that place, consult with
Doctor Scotto on the subject of his further proceedings. He will take
care to engage a _proper boat_ for bringing down the head, and will
request Mr. Scotto to provide him with a soldier to go up with him, for
the purpose of engaging the Fellahs to work whenever he may require
their assistance, as otherwise they are not likely to attend to Mr.
Belzoni’s orders; and he should on no account leave Siout without an
interpreter.
“Having obtained the necessary permission to hire workmen, &c., Mr.
Belzoni will proceed direct to Thebes. He will find the head referred to
on the western side of the river, opposite to Carnak, in the vicinity of
a village called Gournou, lying on the southern side of a ruined temple,
called by the natives Kossar el Dekaki. To the head is still attached a
portion of the shoulders, so that altogether it is of large dimensions,
and will be recognized,—1st, by the circumstance of its lying on its
back with the face uppermost—2dly, by the face being quite perfect, and
very beautiful—3dly, by its having, on one of its shoulders, a hole
bored artificially, supposed to have been made by the French for
separating the fragment of the body—and 4thly, from its being a mixed
blackish and reddish granite, and covered with hieroglyphics on its
shoulders. It must not be mistaken for another, lying in that
neighbourhood, which is _much mutilated_.
“Mr. Belzoni will spare no expense or trouble in getting it as speedily
conveyed to the banks of the river as possible; and he will, if it be
necessary, let it wait there till the river shall have attained
sufficient height, before he attempts to get it into the boat. But, at
the same time, he is requested not to attempt removing it, on any
account, if he should judge there would be any serious risk of either
injuring the head, of burying the face in the sand, or of losing it in
the Nile.
“If, on arriving at the ground, too, he should perceive that his means
are inadequate, or that the difficulties of the undertaking, from the
nature of the ground, or other causes, are likely to prove
insurmountable, he will, at once, relinquish the enterprise, and not
enter into farther expense on that account.
“Mr. Belzoni will have the goodness to keep a separate account of the
expenses incurred in this undertaking, which, as well as his other
expenses, will gladly be reimbursed; as, from the knowledge of Mr.
Belzoni’s character, it is confidently believed they will be as
reasonable as circumstances will allow.
“The boat meant to carry the head should be hired for a sufficient time
to allow of its being carried _directly_ down to Alexandria; but, on the
way, Mr. Belzoni will not fail to stop at Boolak for further
instructions.
“If Mr. Belzoni should ascertain the certainty of his being able to
accomplish his purpose, he is requested immediately to despatch an
express with the gratifying intelligence to Cairo.
“HENRY SALT.”
I beg leave to observe, that in the whole of these instructions, though
written in an assuming style, not a word is said about any payment to
myself, which would certainly have been the case, had I been employed in
the way that has been represented.
Every thing was ready in the boat for our departure from Boolak. The
whole of the implements for the operation consisted of a few poles and
ropes of palm leaves, no other implements being to be procured in the
place at that time. Seeing I undertook the enterprise cheerfully, the
consul did me the honour to request something more, which was, to
purchase whatever antiquities I could on the road. I assented to his
wishes; and for this purpose he supplied me with money, as well as for
the removal of the colossal head. On the 30th of June we left Boolak;
and as Mrs. Belzoni determined to accompany me, we took with us the
Irish lad, and a Copt interpreter, who had been in the French army.
The first ruins we arrived at were those of Shak Abade, or the ancient
Antinoe; for I omit the pyramids for the present. Not to depreciate the
works of Adrian, these ruins did not surprise me at all. There are few
columns standing; many are fallen; and what are of granite were
evidently taken from more ancient edifices. I made a drawing of one of
the standing columns, merely to give an idea of the order, &c. (see
Plate 32); and we crossed the same day over to Ashmounain. Here is the
first Egyptian architecture that travellers meet with on the Nile above
the pyramids; and I must say, that it has made a great impression on my
mind, though it is only a portico of two rows of columns. The solitary
place on which it stands, in the midst of the ruins of Hermopolis, and
the majestic appearance of the columns, of a form so uncommon to a
European, cannot fail to inspire veneration for the people that erected
such edifices. It appears to me, that these ruins are of remoter date
than those of Thebes; which does not agree with the opinion, that the
temples in the Lower Thebais were of later date than those of Upper
Egypt. From what I have seen of the tombs in these mountains, I am of
opinion, that Hermopolis was inhabited by some great people, as nothing
can give juster ideas of the condition of the Egyptians than the quality
of the tombs in which they were buried.
On the 5th, in the evening, we arrived at Manfalût, where we met
Ibrahim, Bashaw of Upper Egypt, son of Mahomet Ali, on his way to Cairo.
Having presented my letters, he politely requested, that I would deliver
them to the Defterdar, who was left in command in Siout. Along with him
was Mr. Drouetti, the ex-consul-general of the late government of
France. He was on his return from Thebes, and had been in the habit of
making a collection of antiquities during the many years he resided in
Egypt. He was already informed, that I had undertaken to remove the
colossal bust, and he told me the Arabs would not work at Thebes, as he
had occasion to try them. He then made me a present of a granite cover
of a sarcophagus, which the Arabs had discovered in one of the tombs. He
said that he had employed several of them for many days to take it out
for himself, but they could not succeed; so that, if I could take it
out, I was welcome to it. I thanked him for his present, and proceeded
on my voyage.
On the 6th, in the afternoon, we arrived in Siout. The Defterdar Bey was
not there, but was expected in two or three days. I waited upon the
physician of Ibrahim Bashaw, Mr. Scotto, to whom I was referred for
information respecting boats, carpenters, &c. This person had never seen
Mr. Salt, by whom I was recommended to him. He behaved, however, very
well to Mr. Bankes, as I have reason to believe, when he passed that
way, and he did also to me; but as to taking away the colossal bust,
after gradually introducing the matter, he made many difficulties:
first, about obtaining permission to have the necessary workmen; then
there were no boats to be had; and next, the bust was a mass of stone
not worth the carriage: at last, he plainly recommended to me not to
meddle in this business, for I should meet with many disagreeable
things, and have many obstacles to encounter. I saw that I could obtain
but little help from this quarter; so I procured all that I wanted by
means of my interpreter, and a few words of my own. I provided myself
with a Greek carpenter, who agreed to follow us to Thebes; and on the
sixth day the Bey arrived. He received me very politely. I presented the
letter to him which Mr. Salt had obtained from Mahomet Ali himself, and
he furnished me with orders to the Casheff of the province of Erments,
to whom the Fellahs of Thebes are subject.
While waiting for the Bey, I visited the tombs of Issus. There are only
two that are worth notice, and these are so decayed inside, that there
is scarcely any remains of figures or painting; all the rest are small
holes for the lower class of people. Siout is the capital of Sais, or
Upper Egypt. There is a constant commerce kept up by the caravans from
Darfoor. Negroes, feathers, elephants’ teeth, and gum, are the principal
articles brought to market. The viceroy of Upper Egypt is always the
first to select what he pleases from the caravan; for which he fixes his
own price, and pays what he likes. The rest is for the merchants, who
dare not buy any thing till the viceroy has made his choice.
This place is celebrated for the making of eunuchs. As soon as the
operation is performed, the boys are buried in the ground, all but the
head and shoulders; and many, who are not of strong constitutions, die
with the excruciating pain. It is calculated, that the operation, during
its performance or afterwards, proves fatal to two out of three.
Besides the usual produce of the country, wheat, beans, flax, and seeds,
a great number of wax candles are made; and it is from hence Cairo is
chiefly supplied with this article. Ibrahim Bashaw has latterly been the
terror of the people. When an unfortunate culprit was brought before
him, after some few questions, he sent him to the Cady[3] to be judged.
This was the signal for taking him to a particular cannon, to the mouth
of which he was tied; and it was then fired off, loaded with a ball, so
that the body was scattered about in pieces at a considerable distance.
In the case of two Arabs, who had killed a soldier, not without
provocation, this Bashaw had them fastened to a pole, like two rabbits
on a spit, and roasted alive at a slow fire: yet this man is now heir to
the government of Egypt on the death of Mahomet Ali.
Footnote 3:
An Arab Sheik, who often decides trifling cases.
On our proceeding up towards Acmin, we saw the columns at Gow; which
have since all fallen into the river, one excepted. I observed there the
largest monolite I have seen any where. It was near twelve feet high,
but of very rough workmanship. The temple had been very extensive, but
the work not of the best sort.
Next day, the 15th, we went to Acmin, to visit the fathers of that
convent. There is nothing interesting in the place, except some stairs,
the only remains of the ancient temple. One of the fathers told me, that
at some distance in the mountain there is a small lake, which he had
visited himself, entirely surrounded by cassia trees. Among the rubbish
in the town are found a few trifling antiquities, but nothing of any
consequence. The fathers took me to see the Casheff, or governor of the
place; who, hearing that I was in search of antiquities, said that he
well knew there were many in the town, for the Fellahs had often told
him so. I inquired of him where they were? “Oh! but you cannot have
them,” he replied: “they are all enchanted by the devil; and no one can
take them from where they are!” I told him, if he would but tell me
where they were, I would arrange the business in the other quarter.
“That is very well,” said he; “but no one here dares to tell you, for
fear the devil should do him a mischief.” He then informed me, that in
the mountains, about six miles distant, there was a large gold ring
stuck into the rock, which no one could take out: that some of his
soldiers went with a cannon, and, after firing several balls at it, were
returning without success, when by chance a man who was eating a
cucumber threw a part of it at the ring, which immediately fell to the
ground; so that it must have been fixed by enchantment there, and
nothing but the rind of a cucumber could make it fall. This I received
from the governor of a province! What sort of a country must that be,
which allows itself to be ruled by a man of so elevated a mind!
On the 16th we passed before Manshia, and arrived at Gerge. There we
procured some provision, and continued our voyage. It was from this
place I visited Arabat, the ancient Abydos, two years after, as I shall
take a proper opportunity of relating.
Near Cossar el Sajats there is a narrow passage of the Nile,
particularly at low water. The wind here was so strong, that we made
considerable way against the current, even without sails; or, in
nautical language, “scudding under bare poles.”
On the 18th, at night, we arrived at Dendera, where we saw a phenomenon
that I never before heard of. A meteor appeared over our heads, and took
its course towards the south; but so slowly, that, from the time of its
setting off to that of its dispersion, to the best of my reckoning, it
was visible for about twenty seconds. It first appeared of a bluish
colour, then became white, and lastly red; leaving, apparently, many
sparks on the way it had passed.
On the 19th, early in the morning, my curiosity was at a high pitch, the
noted temple of Tentyra being the only thought I had in my head.
Accordingly, we set off on asses, as usual, and proceeded to the ruins,
nearly two miles from the Nile. Little could be seen of the temple, till
we came near to it, as it is surrounded by high mounds of rubbish of the
old Tentyra. On our arriving before it, I was for some time at a loss to
know where I should begin my examination. The numerous objects before
me, all equally attractive, left me for a while in a state of suspense
and astonishment. The enormous masses of stone employed in the edifice
are so well disposed, that the eye discovers the most just proportion
every where. The majestic appearance of its construction, the variety of
its ornaments, and, above all, the singularity of its preservation, had
such an effect on me, that I seated myself on the ground, and for a
considerable time was lost in admiration. It is the first Egyptian
temple the traveller sees on ascending the Nile, and it is certainly the
most magnificent. It has an advantage over most others, from the good
state of preservation it is in; and I should have no scruple in saying,
that it is of a much later date than many others. The superiority of the
workmanship gives us sufficient reason to suppose it to be of the time
of the first Ptolemy; and it is not improbable, that he, who laid the
foundation of the Alexandrian library, instituted the philosophical
society of the Museum, and studied to render himself beloved by his
people, might erect such an edifice, to convince the Egyptians of his
superiority of mind over the ancient kings of Egypt, even in religious
devotion.