centuries, and it was here that Denon thought himself in the sanctuary
of the arts and sciences. The front is adorned with a beautiful cornice,
and a frieze covered with figures and hieroglyphics, over the centre of
which the winged globe is predominant, and the two sides are embellished
with compartments of sacrifices and offerings. The columns that form the
portico are twenty-four in number, divided into four rows, including
those in the front. On entering the gate the scene changes, and requires
more minute observation. The quadrangular form of the capitals first
strikes the eye. At each side of the square there is a colossal head of
the goddess Isis with cows’ ears. There is not one of these heads but is
much mutilated, particularly those on the columns in the front of the
temple facing the outside: but notwithstanding this disadvantage, and
the flatness of their form, there is a simplicity in their countenance
that approaches to a smile. The shafts of the columns are covered with
hieroglyphics and figures, which are in basso relievo, as are all the
figures in the front and lateral walls. The front of the doorway, which
is in a straight line with the entrance and the sanctuary, is richly
adorned with figures of smaller size than the rest of the portico. The
ceiling contains the zodiac, inclosed by two long female figures, which
extend from one side to the other of it. The walls are divided into
several square compartments, each containing figures representing
deities, and priests in the act of offering or immolating victims. On
all the walls, columns, ceiling, or architraves, there is nowhere a
space of two feet, that is not covered with some figures of human
beings, animals, plants, emblems of agriculture, or of religious
ceremony. Wherever the eyes turn, wherever the attention is fixed, every
thing inspires respect and veneration, heightened by the solitary
situation of this temple, which adds to the attraction of these splendid
recesses. The inner apartments are much the same as the portico, all
covered with figures in basso relievo, to which the light enters through
small holes in the walls: the sanctuary itself is quite dark. In the
corner of it I found the door, which leads to the roof by a staircase,
the walls of which are also covered with figures in basso relievo. On
the top of the temple the Arabs had built a village, I suppose to be the
more elevated, and exposed to the air; but it is all in ruins, as no one
now lives there. From the top I descended into some apartments on the
east side of the temple. There I saw the famous zodiac on the ceiling.
The circular form of this zodiac led me to suppose, in some measure,
that this temple was built at a later period than the rest, as nothing
like it is seen any where else. In the front of the edifice there is a
propylæon, not inferior to the works in the temple; and, though partly
fallen, it still shows its ancient grandeur. On the left, going from the
portico, there is a small temple surrounded by columns. In the inside is
a figure of Isis sitting with Orus in her lap, and other female figures,
each with a child in her arms, are observable. The capitals of the
columns are adorned with the figure of Typhon. The gallery or portico,
that surrounds the temple, is filled up with rubbish to a great height,
and walls of unburnt bricks have been raised from one column to another.
Farther on, in a right line with the propylæon, are the remains of an
hypæthral temple, which form a square of twelve columns, connected with
each other by a wall, except at the doorway, which fronts the propylæon.
The eastern wall of the great temple is richly adorned with figures in
intaglio relevato: they are perfectly finished: the female figures are
about four feet high, disposed in different compartments. Behind the
temple is a small Egyptian building, quite detached from the large
edifice; and from its construction I would venture to say, that it was
the habitation of the priests. At some distance from the great temple
are the foundations of another, not so large as the first. The propylæon
is still standing in good preservation. My principal object did not
permit me to stay here any longer; but I do not know that I ever quitted
a place with so much regret and wish to remain.
When we again reached the Nile, the people of Dendera were assembled in
great numbers, waiting our return from the ruins. On approaching them
they surrounded my interpreter, and caught hold of him, some by the
arms, others by the garments, and insisted that he should remain there,
as he belonged to that village. The fact was, that at the time the
French were there, a boy from that place went along with them; and, as
our interpreter told them that he had been in the French army, they
concluded he must be the same person; nor could we persuade them to the
contrary. I was not willing to part with him, as I was but little
acquainted with the Arabic language; but no reasoning with them would
avail, and they were too numerous for him to escape from them. At last,
I told them to call for the mother of the boy in question. To this they
answered, that she lived at six miles distance, and they would not take
the trouble to go and fetch her. Presently, however, they consented; but
they would not release their supposed old friend from their hands,
telling him he had been long enough among christian dogs. Some brought
him milk and bread, others dates, others sugar-canes, &c. At length the
desired old woman arrived, accompanied with another son; and, on her
coming up to my interpreter, he addressed her in such a manner, that she
soon acknowledged he did not belong to her.
We set off the same morning, and arrived in an hour at Kenneh. This
place is well known for its trade with India through Cosseir, and as it
is a halting-place for the Hadgees, is always well supplied with
provisions. The Aga has under his command five hundred soldiers, to
escort the caravan through the desert to Cosseir. The Bashaw sends
supplies of wheat to his troops in Arabia, beside the usual trade in
sugar and silk; and they bring coffee from Mocha, with cottons and
Cashmire shawls of India manufacture. The Hadgees here take a stock of
provision sufficient to last them as far as Mecca, and in the proper
season the town is crowded with them from all parts. The camels for the
caravans are furnished by the Ababdy, who make it a profitable business
with the Hadgees. The best vessels for cooling water are met with in
this town. The slaves that come from the upper country pay a duty of
four dollars for a boy, two for a woman, and one for a man.
We continued our voyage, and arrived at Gamola on the 21st at night. On
the 22d, we saw for the first time the ruins of great Thebes, and landed
at Luxor. Here I beg the reader to observe, that but very imperfect
ideas can be formed of the extensive ruins of Thebes, even from the
accounts of the most skilful and accurate travellers. It is absolutely
impossible to imagine the scene displayed, without seeing it. The most
sublime ideas, that can be formed from the most magnificent specimens of
our present architecture, would give a very incorrect picture of these
ruins: for such is the difference, not only in magnitude, but in form,
proportion, and construction, that even the pencil can convey but a
faint idea of the whole. It appeared to me like entering a city of
giants, who, after a long conflict, were all destroyed, leaving the
ruins of their various temples as the only proofs of their former
existence. The temple of Luxor presents to the traveller at once one of
the most splendid groups of Egyptian grandeur. The extensive propylæon,
with the two obelisks, and colossal statues in the front; the thick
groups of enormous columns; the variety of apartments and the sanctuary
it contains; the beautiful ornaments which adorn every part of the walls
and columns, the battles on the propylæon, described by Mr. Hamilton;
cause in the astonished traveller an oblivion of all that he has seen
before. If his attention be attracted to the north side of Thebes by the
towering remains that project a great height above the wood of
palm-trees, he will gradually enter that forest-like assemblage of ruins
of temples, columns, obelisks, colossi, sphynxes, portals, and an
endless number of other astonishing objects, that will convince him at
once of the impossibility of a description. On the west side of the
Nile, still the traveller finds himself among wonders. The temples of
Gournou, Memnonium, and Medinet Aboo, attest the extent of the great
city on this side. The unrivalled colossal figures in the plains of
Thebes, the number of tombs excavated in the rocks, those in the great
valley of the kings, with their paintings, sculptures, mummies,
sarcophagi, figures, &c. are all objects worthy of the admiration of the
traveller; who will not fail to wonder how a nation, which was once so
great as to erect these stupendous edifices, could so far fall into
oblivion, that even their language and writing are totally unknown to
us.
After having taken a cursory view of Luxor and Carnak, to which my
curiosity led me on my landing, I crossed the Nile to the west, and
proceeding straight to the Memnonium, I had to pass before the two
colossal figures in the plain. I need not say, that I was struck with
wonder. They are mutilated indeed, but their enormous size strikes the
mind with admiration. The next object that met my view was the
Memnonium. It stands elevated above the plain, which is annually
inundated by the Nile. The water reaches quite to the propylæon; and,
though this is considerably lower than the temple, I beg leave to
observe, that it may be considered as one of the proofs, that the bed of
the Nile has risen considerably higher since the Memnonium was erected;
for it is not to be supposed that the Egyptians built the propylæon,
which is the entrance to the temple, so low as not to be able to enter
it when the water was at its height. There are other proofs of this
opinion, which I shall have an opportunity of introducing in this
volume. The groups of columns of that temple, and the views of the
numerous tombs excavated in the high rock behind it, present a strange
appearance to the eye. On my approaching these ruins, I was surprised at
the sight of the great colossus of Memnon, or Sesostris, or Osymandias,
or Phamenoph, or perhaps some other king of Egypt; for such are the
various opinions of its origin, and so many names have been given to it,
that at last it has no name at all. I can but say, that it must have
been one of the most venerated statues of the Egyptians; for it would
have required more labour to convey such a mass of granite from Assouan
to Thebes, than to transport the obelisk, commonly known under the
appellation of Pompey’s Pillar, to Alexandria.
As I entered these ruins, my first thought was to examine the colossal
bust I had to take away. I found it near the remains of its body and
chair, with its face upwards, and apparently smiling on me, at the
thought of being taken to England. I must say, that my expectations were
exceeded by its beauty, but not by its size. I observed, that it must
have been absolutely the same statue as is mentioned by Norden, lying in
his time with its face downwards, which must have been the cause of its
preservation. I will not venture to assert who separated the bust from
the rest of the body by an explosion, or by whom the bust has been
turned face upwards. The place where it lay was nearly in a line with
the side of the main gateway into the temple; and, as there is another
colossal head near it, there may have been one on each side of the
doorway, as they are to be seen at Luxor and Carnak.
All the implements brought from Cairo to the Memnonium consisted of
fourteen poles, eight of which were employed in making a sort of car to
lay the bust on, four ropes of palm leaves, and four rollers, without
tackle of any sort. I selected a place in the porticoes; and, as our
boat was too far off to go to sleep in it every night, I had all our
things brought on shore, and made a dwelling house of the Memnonium. A
small hut was formed of stones, and we were handsomely lodged. Mrs.
Belzoni had by this time accustomed herself to travel, and was equally
indifferent with myself about accommodations. I examined the road by
which I was to take the bust to the Nile. As it appeared, that the
season of the inundation was advancing very fast, all the lands which
extend from the Memnonium to the water-side would have been covered in
one month’s time; and the way at the foot of the mountain was very
uneven, and in some parts ran over the ground to which the water
reached, so that, unless the bust was drawn over those places before the
inundation commenced, it would become impossible to effect it after,
till the next summer; a delay which might have occasioned even still
more difficulties than I had to encounter at that time; for I have
reason to assert, that an intrigue was going on to prevent the removal
of the head.
On the 24th of July, I went to the Cacheff of Erments to obtain an order
to the Caimakan of Gournou and Agalta, to procure for me eighty Arabs,
to assist in the removal of the young Memnon. He received me with that
invariable politeness which is peculiar to the Turks, even when they do
not mean in the slightest degree to comply with your wishes, and which
often deceives a traveller, who only _en passant_ takes coffee, smokes
his pipe, and goes away. It is not so these people can be known. It
requires an opportunity of dealing with them, and in matters in which
their interest is concerned. There are exceptions among them, as there
are among the Christians of Europe; and I often found myself deceived
where I least expected it. The smooth-faced protestations of friendship
and partiality for a person, whom they never saw before, is so common
among them, that at last it becomes a matter of course; and no reliance
is placed on it, except by those who are unacquainted with the customs
of the country.
I presented the firman from the Defterdar at Siout. He received it
reverently, and promised to do every thing in his power to get the Arabs
to work; but observed that, at the present season, they were all
occupied, and it would be better to wait till after the inundation of
the Nile. I remarked, that I had seen a great many Arabs about the
villages, who appeared perfectly idle, and who would be glad to gain
something by being employed. “You are mistaken,” he replied, “for they
would sooner starve than undertake a task so arduous as yours; since, to
remove that stone, they must be helped by Mahomet, or they will never
stir it the thickness of a thumb. Now, at the rise of the Nile, the
Arabs of these banks are quite unoccupied, and that is the best time to
employ them for such purposes.” The next objection was the Ramadan,
which was just beginning; and the third, that he could not spare any
Arabs, as they must work in the fields for the Bashaw, whose work could
not be interrupted. I saw plainly, that I should have to encounter many
difficulties, but I was determined to persist; and I told him, I should
collect men myself, accompanied by my Janizary; and that all the Arabs I
might find idle and willing to come, I should engage, according to the
firman I had received from the Bashaw. “To-morrow,” he then replied, “I
will send my brother to see if any men can be got.” I told him I relied
on his word, and gave him to understand, that, if he behaved in a manner
conformably to the orders of the Bashaw, he would receive a present
accordingly; and, leaving my Janizary there, to conduct the men who
might be procured for me to the Memnonium the next morning, I returned
to Thebes.
The morning arrived, but no men appeared. I waited patiently till nine
o’clock, and then mounted a camel, and went again to Erments. I gave my
interpreter some powder, and about two pounds of raw coffee, to be
produced when I should ask for them. I found the Cacheff occupied in
giving directions to build a tomb for a Mahometan saint; but it was of
no use to complain. I told him, therefore, that I came to drink coffee
with him, and smoke a pipe. He was pleased, and we sat together on the
divan. I pretended to be quite unconcerned about the removal of the
colossus; and at a proper time I presented the powder and the coffee to
him, with which he was much gratified. I then repeated to him, that, if
he would obtain men for me, it would be much to his advantage; and if
not, he would lose the chance of reward, and I should act accordingly.
He promised again that, on the next morning, I should have the
assistance I wanted, and gave me an order for the purpose. I returned to
Gournou on the same evening, and sent the tiscarry, or order, to the
Caimakan of the place, whose business it was to attend to it. This man
was an old acquaintance of a certain collector of antiquities in
Alexandria; and, as he had immediate command over the Fellahs, gave me
much trouble. He had collected antiquities for this person for many
years at Gournou, was married and settled there, so that I was by no
means welcome to him. Agreeably to the order, he also promised, like his
master, to furnish me with men: but again, on the 26th, not one
appeared.
I then sent for him, and with an air of indifference, he told me, that
men could not be procured that day, but he would do what he could on the
morrow or next day: at the same time the Fellahs, who were idle, would
have been glad to be employed, as they came by twenty at a time to see
if permission were granted for them to work. The Cacheff, too, instead
of sending the assistance he had promised from his part of the country,
sent only a soldier, to inquire whether I still wanted it; and I
replied, that, if he did not supply me with some men the next morning, I
should write to Cairo. I knew, that writing to Cairo would have been to
no purpose, for it would take a month before I could receive an answer,
and then it would be too late, in consequence of the rising of the Nile.
I tried in vain to persuade those Arabs whom I saw unemployed to work;
but, though they were desirous of earning money, they dared not do so,
without permission either from the Cacheff or the Caimakan.
To the Cacheff I now applied again, and at last on the 27th, he sent me
a few men, but by no means sufficient for my purpose; yet, when others
saw them at work, by permission they were easily persuaded to join the
party. I arranged my men in a row, and agreed to give them thirty paras
a day, which is equal to fourpence halfpenny English money, with which
they were much pleased, as it was more by one half than they were
accustomed to receive for their daily labour in the fields. The
carpenter had made the car, and the first operation was to endeavour to
place the bust on it. The Fellahs of Gournou, who were familiar with
Caphany, as they named the colossus, were persuaded, that it could never
be moved from the spot where it lay; and when they saw it moved, they
all set up a shout. Though it was the effect of their own efforts, it
was the devil, they said, that did it; and as they saw me taking notes,
they concluded that it was done by means of a charm. The mode I adopted
to place it on the car was very simple, for work of no other description
could be executed by these people, as their utmost sagacity reaches only
to pulling a rope, or sitting on the extremity of a lever as a
counterpoise. By means of four levers I raised the bust, so as to leave
a vacancy under it, to introduce the car; and, after it was slowly
lodged on this, I had the car raised in the front, with the bust on it,
so as to get one of the rollers underneath. I then had the same
operation performed at the back, and the colossus was ready to be pulled
up. I caused it to be well secured on the car, and the ropes so placed
that the power might be divided. I stationed men with levers at each
side of the car, to assist occasionally, if the colossus should be
inclined to turn to either side. In this manner I kept it safe from
falling. Lastly, I placed men in the front, distributing them equally at
the four ropes, while others were ready to change the rollers
alternately. Thus I succeeded in getting it removed the distance of
several yards from its original place.
According to my instructions, I sent an Arab to Cairo with the
intelligence, that the bust had begun its journey towards England. From
the great heat of the day I was unwell at night, having never felt the
sun so powerful before in my life. Being in the hottest season, the air
was inflamed; and even at night the wind itself was extremely hot. The
place I had chosen in the Memnonium was worse than any, as the whole
mass of stones was so heated, that the hands could not be kept on it. In
the course of time these places became familiar to me, as well as the
climate; for I observed, three years after, that I was often on the same
spot, and at the same season, without feeling the least inconvenience,
or being sensible of the intense heat I had felt on my first arrival.
When the Arabs found that they received money for the removal of a
stone, they entertained the opinion, that it was filled with gold in the
inside, and that a thing of such value should not be permitted to be
taken away.
On the 28th we recommenced the work. The Arabs came pretty early, as
they preferred to work in the morning, and rest in the middle of the day
from twelve to two. This day we removed the bust out of the ruins of the
Memnonium. To make room for it to pass, we had to break the bases of two
columns. It was advanced about fifty yards out of the temple. In the
evening I was very poorly: I went to rest, but my stomach refused any
aliment. I began to be persuaded, that there is a great difference
between travelling in a boat, with all that is wanted in it, and at
leisure, and the undertaking of an operation, which required great
exertions in directing a body of men, who in point of skill are no
better than beasts, and to be exposed to the burning sun of that country
from morning till night.
On the next day, the 29th, I found it impossible to stand on my legs,
and postponed the work to the day following. I had all our
household-furniture, beds, kitchen-pottery, and provisions, put on a
camel, and returned to the boat, in hopes that the air might be cool at
night; but I remained very ill the whole day, my stomach refusing to
take almost any thing.
On the 30th we continued the work, and the colossus advanced a hundred
and fifty yards towards the Nile. I was a little better in the morning,
but worse again in the evening.
On the 31st I was again a little better, but could not proceed, as the
road became so sandy that the colossus sunk into the ground. I was
therefore under the necessity of taking a long turn of above three
hundred yards, to a new road. In the evening of this day I was much
better.
On the 1st of August we still improved in our success, as we this day
proceeded above three hundred yards. I was obliged to keep several men
employed in making the road before us, as we went on with the head. The
Irish lad that was with me I sent to Cairo, as he could not resist the
climate; but what is singular, Mrs. Belzoni enjoyed tolerable health all
the time. She was constantly among the women in the tombs; for all the
Fellahs of Gournou make dwelling-houses where the Egyptians had
burial-places, as I shall have occasion to mention hereafter.
On the 2d the head advanced farther; and I was in great hopes of passing
a part of the land, to which the inundation would extend, previous to
the water reaching that spot.
On the 3d we went on extremely well, and advanced nearly four hundred
yards. We had a bad road on the 4th, but still we proceeded a good way.
On the 5th we entered the land I was so anxious to pass over, for fear
the water should reach it and arrest our course; and I was happy to
think, that the next day would bring us out of danger. Accordingly, I
went to the place early in the morning, and to my great surprise found
no one there except the guards and the carpenter, who informed me, that
the Caimakan had given orders to the Fellahs not to work for the
Christian dogs any longer. I sent for him, to know the reason of this
new proceeding; but he was gone to Luxor. It is to be observed, that the
spot where the head lay at this time was expected to be under water in a
few days; and that by delay the risk would be incurred of having it sunk
in the earth, so that it could not have been taken out till the
following year, and then not without a great deal of additional trouble,
exclusive of the tricks that might be played in the interval. Under
these circumstances, it may be imagined I was uneasy upon the subject,
and anxious for despatch. I afterwards learned, that the rogue of a
Caimakan had suggested to the Cacheff to take advantage of the
situation, when the head was to pass that spot, to put an end to our
proceeding. I took the Janizary with me, and crossed the water to Luxor.
I there found the Caimakan, who could give me no reason for his
proceeding but saucy answers; and the more I attempted to bring him into
good humour by smooth words and promises, the more insolent he became.
My patience was great, and I was determined that day to carry it to its
utmost length: but there is a certain point, which, if exceeded, these
people do not understand; and, in a country where respect is paid only
to the strongest, advantage will always be taken of the weak:
consequently if a man carry his policy beyond that point, they mistake
him for a coward; he is despised, and will have the more difficulties to
encounter.