The bay hath twenty leagues sea-coast, six on the east side, which lies in

the direction of S. half W. and N. half E., two at the head, and twelve on

the west side, the direction of which is S. by E. and N. by W., from the

head down to two-thirds of its length, and then N.W. by N. to the N.W.

point. The two points which form the entrance, lie in the direction of S.

53° E., and N. 53° W., from each other, distant ten leagues. The bay is

every where free from danger, and of an unfathomable depth, except near the

shores, which are for the most part low. This, however, is only a very

narrow strip between the sea-shore and the foot of the hills; for the bay,

as well as the flat land at the head of it, is bounded on each side by a

ridge of hills, one of which, that to the west, is very high and double,

extending the whole length of the island. An uncommonly luxuriant

vegetation was every where to be seen; the sides of the hills were

chequered with plantations; and every valley watered by a stream. Of all

the productions of nature this country was adorned with, the cocoa-nut

trees were the most conspicuous. The columns of smoke we saw by day, and

fires by night all over the country, led us to believe that it is well

inhabited and very fertile. The east point of this bay, which I name Cape

Quiros, in memory of its first discoverer, is situated in latitude 14° 56'

S., longitude 167° 13' E. The N.W. point, which I named Cape Cumberland, in

honour of his Royal Highness the Duke, lies in the latitude of 14° 38' 45"

S., longitude 166° 49' 1/2 E., and is the N.W. extremity of this

archipelago; for, after doubling it, we found the coast to trend gradually

round to the S. and S.S.E.[6]

On the 28th and 29th, we had light airs and calms, so that we advanced but

little. In this time, we took every opportunity, when the horizon was

clearer than usual, to look out for more land, but none was seen. By

Quiros's track to the north, after leaving the bay above-mentioned, it

seems probable that there is none nearer than Queen Charlotte's Island,

discovered by Captain Carteret, which lies about ninety leagues N.N.W. from

Cape Cumberland, and I take to be the same with Quiros's Santa Cruz.

On the 30th, the calm was succeeded by a fresh breeze at S.S.E. which

enabled us to ply up the coast. At noon we observed in 15° 20'; afterwards

we stretched in east, to within a mile of the shore, and then tacked in

seventy-five fathoms, before a sandy flat, on which several of the natives

made their appearance. We observed on the sides of the hills, several

plantations that were laid out by line, and fenced round.

On the 31st, at noon, the S. or S.W. point of the island bore N. 62° E.,

distant four leagues. This forms the N.W. point of what I call

Bougainville's Passage; the N.E. point at this time bore N. 85° E., and the

N.W. end of Mallicollo from S. 54° E. to S. 72° E. Latitude observed 15°

45' S. In the afternoon, in stretching to the east, we weathered the S.S.W.

point of the island, from which the coast trends east, northerly. It is

low, and seemed to form some creeks or coves; and, as we got farther into

the passage, we perceived some small low isles lying along it, which seemed

to extend behind St Bartholomew Island.

Having now finished the survey of the whole archipelago, the season of the

year made it necessary for me to return to the south, while I had yet some

time left to explore any land I might meet with between this and New

Zealand; where I intended to touch, that I might refresh my people, and

recruit our stock of wood and water for another southern course. With this

view, at five p.m. we tacked, and hauled to the southward with a fresh gale

at S.E. At this time the N.W. point of the passage, or the S.W. point of

the island Tierra del Espiritu Santo, the only remains of Quiros's

continent, bore N. 82° W., distant three leagues. I named it Cape Lisburne,

and its situation is in latitude 15° 40', longitude 165° 59' E.

The foregoing account of these islands, in the order in which we explored

them, not being particular enough either as to situation or description, it

may not be improper now to give a more accurate view of them, which will

convey to the reader a better idea of the whole groupe.

The northern islands of this archipelago were first discovered by that

great navigator Quiros in 1606; and, not without reason, were considered as

part of the southern continent, which, at that time, and until very lately,

was supposed to exist. They were next visited by M. de Bougainville, in

1768; who, besides landing on the Isle of Lepers, did no more than discover

that the land was not connected, but composed of islands, which he called

the Great Cyclades. But as, besides ascertaining the extent and situation

of these islands, we added to them several new ones which were not known

before, and explored the whole, I think we have obtained a right to name

them; and shall in future distinguish them by the name of the New Hebrides.

They are situated between the latitude of 14° 29' and 20° 4' S., and

between 166° 41' and 170° 21' E. longitude, and extend an hundred and

twenty-five leagues in the direction of N.N.W. 1/2 W. and S.S.E. 1/2 E.

The most northern island is that called by M. de Bougainville, Peak of the

Etoile; it is situated, according to his account, in latitude, 14° 29',

longitude 168° 9'; and N. by W., eight leagues from Aurora.

The next island, which lies farthest north, is that of Tierra del Espiritu

Santo. It is the most western and largest of all the Hebrides, being

twenty-two leagues long, in the direction of N.N.W. 1/2 W. and S.S.E. 1/2

E., twelve in breadth, and sixty in circuit. We have obtained the true

figure of this island very accurately. The land of it, especially the west

side, is exceedingly high and mountainous; and, in many places the hills

rise directly from the sea. Except the cliffs and beaches, every other part

is covered with wood, or laid out in plantations. Besides the bay of St

Philip and St Jago, the isles which lie along the south and east coast,

cannot, in my opinion, fail of forming some good bays or harbours.

The next considerable island is that of Mallicollo. To the S.E. it extends

N.W. and S.E., and is eighteen leagues long in that direction. Its greatest

breadth, which is at the S.E, end, is eight leagues. The N.W. end is two-

thirds this breadth, and near the middle, one-third. This contraction is

occasioned by a wide and pretty deep bay on the S.W. side. To judge of this

island from what we saw of it, it must be very fertile and well inhabited.

The land on the sea-coast is rather low, and lies with a gentle slope from

the hills which are in the middle of the island. Two-thirds of the N.E.

coast was only seen at a great distance; therefore the delineations of it

can have no pretensions to accuracy; but the other parts, I apprehend, are

without any material errors.

St Bartholomew lies between the S.E. end of Tierra del Espiritu Santo, and

the north end of Mallicollo; and the distance between it and the latter is

eight miles. This is the passage through which M. de Bougainville went; and

the middle of it is in latitude 15° 48'.

The Isle of Lepers lies between Espiritu Santo and Aurora Island, eight

leagues from the former, and three from the latter, in latitude 15° 22',

and nearly under the same meridian as the S.E.. end of Mallicollo. It is of

an egg-like figure, very high, and eighteen or twenty leagues in circuit.

Its limits were determined by several bearings; but the lines of the shore

were traced out by guess, except the N.E. part where there is anchorage

half a mile from the land.

Aurora, Whitsuntide, Ambrym, Paoom, and its neighbour Apee, Threehills, and

Sandwich Islands, lie all nearly under the meridian of 167° 29' or 30' E.,

extending from the latitude of 14° 51' 30", to 17° 53' 30".

The island of Aurora lies N. by W. and S. by E., and is eleven leagues long

in that direction; but I believe, it hardly any where exceeds two or two

and a half in breadth. It hath a good height, its surface hilly, and every

where covered with wood, except where the natives have their dwellings and

plantations.

Whitsuntide Isle, which is one league and a half to the south of Aurora, is

of the same length, and lies in the direction of north and south, but is

something broader than Aurora Island. It is considerably high, and clothed

with wood, except such parts as seemed to be cultivated, which were pretty

numerous.

From the south end of Whitsuntide Island to the north side of Ambrym is two

leagues and a half. This is about seventeen leagues in circuit; its shores

are rather low, but the land rises with an unequal ascent to a tolerably

high mountain in the middle of the island, from which ascended great

columns of smoke; but we were not able to determine whether this was

occasioned by a volcano or not. That it is fertile and well inhabited,

seems probable from the quantities of smoke which we saw rise out of the

woods, in such parts of the island as came within the compass of our sight;

for it must be observed, that we did not see the whole of it.

We saw still much less of Paoom and its neighbourhood. I can say no more of

this island than that it towers up to a great height in the form of a round

hay-stack; and the extent of it, and of the adjoining isle (if there are

two), cannot exceed three or four leagues in any direction; for the

distance between Ambrym and Apee is hardly five; and they lie in this

space, and east from Port Sandwich, distant about seven or eight leagues.

The island of Apee is not less than twenty leagues in circuit; its longest

direction is about eight leagues N.W. and S.E.; it is of considerable

height; and hath a hilly surface diversified with woods and lawns, the west

and south parts especially; for the others we did not see.

Shepherd's Isles are a group of small ones of unequal size, extending off

from the S.E. point of Apee about five leagues in the direction of S.E.

The island Threehills lies south four leagues from the coast of Apee, and

S.E. 1/2 S., distant seventeen leagues from Port Sandwich; to this, and

what hath been already said of it, I shall only add, that W. by N., five

miles from the west point, is a reef of rocks on which the sea continually

breaks.

Nine leagues, in the direction of south, from Threehills, lies Sandwich

Island. Twohills, the Monument, and Montagu Islands, lie to the east of

this line, and Hinchinbrook to the west, as also two or three small isles

which lie between it and Sandwich Island, to which they are connected by

breakers.

Sandwich Island is twenty-five leagues in circuit; its greatest extent is

ten leagues; and it lies in the direction of N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. The

N.W. coast of this island we only viewed at a distance; therefore our chart

of this part may be faulty so far as it regards the line of the coast, but

no farther. The distance from the south end of Mallicollo to the N.W. end

of Sandwich Island, is twenty-two leagues in the direction of S.S E. 1/2 E.

In the same direction lie Erromango, Tanna, and Annatom. The first is

eighteen leagues from Sandwich Island, and is twenty-four or twenty-five

leagues in circuit. The middle of it lies in the latitude of 18° 54',

longitude 169° 19' E., and it is of a good height, as may be gathered from

the distance we were off when we first saw it.

Tanna lies six leagues from the south side of Erromango, extending S.E. by

S. and N.W. by N., about eight leagues long in that direction, and every

where about three or four leagues broad.

The isle of Immer lies in the direction of N. by E. 1/2 E., four leagues

from Port Resolution in Tanna; and the island of Erronan or Footoona East,

in the same direction, distant eleven leagues. This, which is the most

eastern island of all the Hebrides, did not appear to be above five leagues

in circuit, but is of a considerable height and flat at top. On the N.E.

side is a little peak seemingly disjointed from the isle; but we thought it

was connected by low land. Annatom, which is the southernmost island, is

situated in the latitude of 20° 3', longitude 170° 4', and S. 30° E.,

eleven or twelve leagues from Port Resolution. It is of a good height, with

an hilly surface; and more I must not say of it.[7]

Here follow the lunar observations by Mr Wales, for ascertaining the

longitude of these islands, reduced by the watch to Port Sandwich in

Mallicollo, and Port Resolution in Tanna.

Port Sandwich, ( Mean of 10 sets of ob. before 167° 56' 33" 1/4 ) E.

( 2 ditto, at 168 2 37 1/2 ) long

( 20 ditto, after 167 52 57 )

( ----------------

( Mean of those means, 167 57 22 3/4

Port Resolution, ( Mean of 20 sets of ob. before 169 37 35 ) E.

( 5 ditto, at 169 48 48 ) long

( 20 ditto, after 169 47 22 1/2 )

( ----------------

( Mean of these means, 169 44 33

It is necessary to observe, that each set of observations, consisting of

between six and ten observed distances of the sun and moon, or moon and

stars, the whole number amounts to several hundreds; and these have been

reduced by means of the watch to all the islands; so that the longitude of

each is as well ascertained as that of the two ports above-mentioned. As a

proof of this I shall only observe, that the longitude of the two ports, as

pointed out by the watch and by the observations, did not differ two miles.

This also shews what degree of accuracy these observations are capable of,

when multiplied to a considerable number, made with different instruments,

and with the sun and stars, or both sides of the moon. By this last method,

the errors which may be either in the instruments or lunar tables, destroy

one another, and likewise those which may arise from the observer himself;

for some men may observe closer than others. If we consider the number of

observations that may be obtained in the course of a month (if the weather

is favourable,) we shall perhaps find this method of finding the longitude

of places as accurate as most others; at least it is the most easy, and

attended with the least expence to the observer. Every ship that goes to

foreign parts is, or maybe, supplied with a sufficient number of quadrants

at a small expence; I mean good ones, proper for making these observations.

For the difference of the price between a good and a bad one, I apprehend,

can never be an object with an officer. The most expensive article, and

what is in some measure necessary in order to arrive at the utmost

accuracy, is a good watch; but for common use, and where that strict

accuracy is not required, this may be dispensed with. I have observed

before, in this journal, that this method of finding the longitude is not

so difficult but that any man, with proper application, and a little

practice, may soon learn to make these observations as well as the

astronomers themselves. I have seldom known any material difference between

the observations made by Mr Wales, and those made by the officers at the

same time.

In observing the variation of the magnetic needle, we found, as usual, our

compasses differ among themselves, sometimes near 2°; the same compass too,

would sometimes make nearly this difference in the variation on different

days, and even between the morning and evening of the same day, when our

change of situation has been but very little. By the mean of the

observations which I made about Erromango; and the S.E. part of these

islands, the variation of the compass was 10° 5' 48" E.; and the mean of

those made about Tierra del Espiritu Santo, gave 10° 5' 30" E. This is

considerably more than Mr Wales found it to be at Tanna. I cannot say what

might occasion this difference in the variation observed at sea and on

shore, unless it be influenced by the land; for I must give the preference

to that found at sea, as it is agreeable to what we observed before we made

the islands, and after we left them.

[1] The word Survey is not here to be understood in its literal sense.

Surveying a place, according to my idea, is taking a geometrical plan

of it, in which every place is to have its true situation, which

cannot be done in a work of this nature.

[2] Mr G.F. says that the aspect of the southern shore of Sandwich

Island was very beautiful, and that its forests seemed more rich and

copious than had been observed to the northward. According to him too,

the small islands which formed the harbour were of inconsiderable

height, but finely wooded with the most tufted trees.--E.

[3] "Mallicollo surprised us again with the beauty and shagginess of

its forests, from whence vast numbers of smokes ascended, sufficient

to prove, that a great part of them was inhabited. The land about the

bay which opened up to our view, was to all appearance extremely

populous and fertile. Two small islands were situated in this bay, and

we feasted our eyes on the richness and luxuriance of the prospect,

when the brightest tints of verdure were properly spread."--G.F.

[4] "Beyond the point which included the bay to the north-west, the

country lost something of its exuberant fertility, and was

interspersed with barren spots, though we saw smokes and habitations

on the highest ridges: And at night the mountains were illuminated in

different places, by several lines of fire, some of which appeared to

extend at least half-a-mile in length. The land, which forms the north

side of Bougainville's passage, appeared very extensive, high and

mountainous, and a number of small islands lay along its southern

coast, which were of a very moderate height, and covered with the

finest forests. The continual fair weather which attended this part of

our navigation, made all these beautiful landscapes appear to the

greatest advantage; and the pleasure of contemplating a great variety

of rich sceneries, made us some amends for the wretchedness of our

diet, which at present consisted of no other than the ship's

provisions."--G.F.

[5] Mr G.F. says some of them had bunches of feathers on their heads,

others a white shell tied on the forehead, and one a sago leaf rolled

round his head forming a kind of cap. They came near enough to the

vessel to receive presents, and shewed a peculiar partiality for

nails, which implied some acquaintance with their value and use. It

was impossible to hold conversation with them by any known language,

but it would seem, that their numerals bore strong resemblance to

those of the Friendly Islands, or were indeed the same. There is

reason to think then, as Captain Cook afterwards notices, that these

are the same sort of people, if not the same individuals, that were

seen on the following day.--E.

[6] "Quiros had great reason to extol the beauty and fertility of this

country; it is indeed, to appearance, one of the finest in the world.

Its riches in vegetable productions would doubtless have afforded the

botanist an ample harvest of new plants, as, next to New Zealand, it

was the largest island we had hitherto seen, and had the advantage of

having never been examined by other naturalists. But the study of

nature was only the secondary object in this voyage, which, contrary

to its original intent, was so contrived in the execution as to

produce little more than a new track on the chart of the southern

hemisphere. We were therefore obliged to look upon those moments, as

peculiarly fortunate, when the urgent wants of the crew, and the

interest of the sciences, happened to coincide."--G.F.

This language is by no means to be imputed to any thing like

disrespect towards Captain Cook, who seems to have stood very high in

the author's estimation; it is, in fact, the natural expression of

disappointment at the unexpected and unintended failure of a favourite

speculation, without any reference to the moral agents by whom it had

been immediately occasioned. It does, however, seem to imply censure

of those, who, in planning the expedition, were far more anxious to

make discoveries, than to extend their importance by the labours of

the naturalist. Considering then from whom it comes, a liberal

interpreter would concede a little allowance to its poignancy of

complaint. Men very naturally attach superior importance to studies

which have long and almost exclusively engrossed their own attention,

and are exceedingly apt to ascribe to ignorance, or something still

more dishonourable, that indifference to them which those who are in

power seem to manifest. Much self-denial, as well as much liberal

observation, is required, to overcome such evil surmisings, and to

induce a candid construction of the conduct that thwarts our own

sanguine prospects. These perhaps are rarely to be met with in young

men, who, in general, are intolerant in proportion to the really

honest industry they exercise in particular pursuits, and their

consciousness of the disinterestedness by which they are actuated. But

time accomplishes two great things for those who are capable of

improvement; it demonstrates the erroneousness of many of the

judgments they had formed of the human character and conduct, and it

discloses within their own breasts, several very disquieting

principles and mortifying drawbacks, which necessitate them to lower

the estimate they had made of their own excellence. Where, from

uncommon circumstances, this tuition has never been applied, we shall

find at forty, the same petulance and conceit which characterised the

clever, it may be, but certainly foolish youth of eighteen; and some

persons there are, who, not quite ignorant of the process, are so much

enraged at it, that they continue through life to display the same

offensive appearances, out of mere spite, and because they have not

the honesty to acknowledge that they ever stood in need of

instruction. G.F. appears to have been in the first-mentioned

predicament; and probably his early death occurred in the midst of a

salutary though severe correction.--E.

[7] "This group of islands, which we had now cursorily examined in the

space of forty-six days, seems to be well worth the attention of

future navigators, especially if they should ever be sent out upon the

liberal plan of making discoveries in all the various branches of

science. I will not pretend to say that they would find great riches

of silver and pearls, which Quiros was forced to speak of, in order to

engage an interested, avaricious court, to support his great and

spirited undertakings. These incitements are not necessary now-a-days,

when several monarchs in Europe have convinced the world that they can

institute voyages of discovery, with no other view than the increase

of human knowledge, and the improvement of man-kind. The sums which

some of their predecessors have lavished on parasites, have been found

sufficient to make an immense progress, nay to produce a new and

important revolution in the state of the sciences, which have ever

required a trifling expence to triumph over the numberless obstacles

that ignorance, envy, or superstition opposed against them."--G.F.

This gentleman we see, is capable of courtesy. The terms in which it

is expressed, however, are sufficiently guarded against admitting too

great a latitude of application, and consequently, are not

particularly liable to abuse--the less so indeed, as it is likely,

that those who might most covet his commendation, would be found best

entitled to it. The recent distractions of Europe, however, have not

enhanced the claims of its monarchs to the honour of patronising such

important undertakings. Some of them, it is probable, are content with

the common but assuredly not less expensive ambition of having shared,

though but by proxy, in a more splendid speculation for fame: And the

glory so acquired, they may chance to think, is ample enough, without

farther concern, to gild their names throughout all succeeding

generations. If so, unfortunately, there is an end of such labours of

discovery as are here recommended; and the islands in question must

remain unexplored, till the increase of human knowledge, and the

improvement of mankind, are thought practicable without bloodshed, and

are felt to be cheaply purchased by the sacrifice of personal

ostentation and public extravagance. Let us hope that the early

example of the truly noble Alexander, in comparatively untoward

circumstances of the world, will be emulated by older sovereigns, who

cannot but be sensible, notwithstanding their catholic affection, that

no small exercise of philanthropy and the love of science is required,

to give them any thing like an equal chance for immortality.--E.

SECTION VIII.

_An Account of the Discovery of New Caledonia, and the Incidents that

happened while the Ship lay in Balade._

At sun-rise on the 1st of September, after having stood to S.W. all night,

no more land was to be seen. The wind remaining in the S.E. quarter, we

continued to stand to S.W. On the 2d, at five o'clock, p.m., being in the

latitude 18° 22', longitude 165° 26', the variation was 10° 50' E.; and at

the same hour on the 3d, it was 10° 51', latitude at that time 19° 14',

longitude 165° E. The next morning, in the latitude of 19° 49' longitude

164° 53", the amplitude gave 10° 21', and the azimuths 10° 7' E. At eight

o'clock, as we were steering to the south, land was discovered bearing

S.S.W., and at noon it extended from S.S.E. to W. by S., distant about six

leagues. We continued to steer for it with a light breeze at east, till

five in the evening, when we were stopped by a calm. At this time we were

three leagues from the land, which extended from S.E. by S. to W. by N.,

round by the S.W. Some openings appeared in the west, so that we could not

tell whether it was one connected land or a group of islands. To the S.E.

the coast seemed to terminate in a high promontory, which I named Cape

Colnett, after one of my midshipmen who first discovered this land.

Breakers were seen about half-way between us and the shore; and, behind

them, two or three canoes under sail, standing out to sea, as if their

design had been to come off to us; but a little before sun-set they struck

their sails, and we saw them no more. After a few hours calm, we got a

breeze at S.E., and spent the night standing off and on.[1]

On the 5th, at sun-rise, the horizon being clear, we could see the coast

extend to the S.E. of Cape Colnett, and round by the S.W. to N.W. by W.

Some gaps or openings were yet to be seen to the west; and a reef, or

breakers, seemed to lie all along the coast, connected with those we

discovered the preceding night. It was a matter of indifference to me,

whether we plied up the coast to the S.E., or bore down to N.W. I chose the

latter; and after running two leagues down the outside of the reef (for

such it proved) we came before an opening that had the appearance of a good

channel, through which we might go in for the land. I wanted to get at it,

not only to visit it, but also to have an opportunity to observe an eclipse

of the sun which was soon to happen. With this view we brought-to, hoisted

out two armed boats, and sent them to sound the channel; ten or twelve

large sailing canoes being then near us. We had observed them coming off

from the shore, all the morning, from different parts; and some were lying

on the reef, fishing, as we supposed. As soon as they all got together,

they came down to us in a body, and were pretty near when we were hoisting

out our boats, which probably gave them some alarm; for, without stopping,

they hauled in for the reef, and our boats followed them. We now saw that

what we had taken for openings in the coast was low land, and that it was

all connected, except the western extremity, which was an island known by

the name of Balabea, as we afterwards learnt.

The boats having made a signal for a channel, and one of them being placed

on the point of the reef on the weather side of it, we stood in with the

ship, and took up the other boat in our way, when the officer informed me,

that where we were to pass, was sixteen and fourteen fathoms water, a fine

sandy bottom, and that having put alongside two canoes, he found the people

very obliging and civil.[2] They gave him some fish; and, in return, he

presented them with medals, &c. In one was a stout robust young man, whom,

they understood to be a chief. After getting within the reef, we hauled up

S. 1/2 E., for a small low sandy isle that we observed lying under the

shore, being followed by all the canoes. Our sounding in standing in, was

from fifteen to twelve fathoms (a pretty even fine sandy bottom,) for about

two miles; then we had six, five, and four fathoms. This was on the tail of

a shoal which lies a little without the small isle to the N.E. Being over

it, we found seven and eight fathoms water, which shallowed gradually as we

approached the shore, to three fathoms, when we tacked and stood off a

little, and then anchored in five fathoms, the bottom a fine sand mixed

with mud. The little sandy isle bore E. by S., three-quarters of a mile

distant; and we were one mile from the shore of the main, which extended

from S.E. by E., round to the south, to W.N.W. The island of Balabea bore

N.W. by N., and the channel, through which we came, north, four miles

distant. In this situation we were extremely well sheltered from the

reigning winds, by the sandy isle and its shoals, and by the shoal without

them.

We had hardly got to an anchor, before we were surrounded by a great number

of the natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom were

without any sort of weapons. At first they were shy in coming near the

ship; but in a short time we prevailed on the people in one boat to get

close enough to receive some presents. These we lowered down to them by a

rope, to which, in return, they tied two fish that stunk intolerably, as

did those they gave us in the morning. These mutual exchanges bringing on a

kind of confidence, two ventured on board the ship; and presently after,

she was filled with them, and we had the company of several at dinner in

the cabin. Our pease-soup, salt-beef and pork, they had no curiosity to

taste; but they eat of some yams, which we happened to have yet left,

calling them _Oobee_. This name is not unlike _Oofee_, as they

are called at most of the islands, except Mallicollo; nevertheless, we

found these people spoke a language new to us. Like all the nations we had

lately seen, the men were almost naked; having hardly any other covering

but such a wrapper as is used at Mallicollo. They were curious in examining

every part of the ship, which they viewed with uncommon attention. They had

not the least knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats, and had not even a

name for one of them. They seemed fond of large spike-nails, and pieces of

red cloth, or indeed of any other colour, but red was their favourite.

After dinner, I went on shore with two armed boats, having with us one of

the natives who had attached himself to me. We landed on a sandy beach

before a vast number of people, who had got together with no other intent

than to see us; for many of them had not a stick in their hands;

consequently we were received with great courtesy, and with the surprise

natural for people to express, at seeing men and things so new to them as

we must be. I made presents to all those my friend pointed out, who were

either old men, or such as seemed to be of some note; but he took not the

least notice of some women who stood behind the crowd, folding my hand when

I was going to give them some beads and medals. Here we found the same

chief, who had been seen in one of the canoes in the morning. His name, we

now learnt, was Teabooma; and we had not been on shore above ten minutes,

before he called for silence. Being instantly obeyed by every individual

present, he made a short speech; and soon after another chief having called

for silence, made a speech also. It was pleasing to see with what attention

they were heard. Their speeches were composed of short sentences; to each

of which two or three old men answered, by nodding their heads, and giving

a kind of grunt, significant, as I thought, of approbation. It was

impossible for us to know the purport of these speeches; but we had reason

to think they were favourable to us, on whose account they doubtless were

made.

I kept my eyes fixed on the people all the time, and saw nothing to induce

me to think otherwise. While we were with them, having enquired, by signs,

for fresh water, some pointed to the east and others to the west. My friend

undertook to conduct us to it, and embarked with us for that purpose. We

rowed about two miles up the coast to the east, where the shore was mostly

covered with mangrove-trees; and entering amongst them, by a narrow creek

or river, which brought us to a little straggling village, above all the

mangroves, there we landed and were shewn fresh water. The ground near this

village was finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations of sugar-

canes, plantains, yams, and other roots, and watered by little rills,

conducted by art from the main stream, whose source was in the hills. Here

were some cocoa-nut trees, which did not seem burdened with fruit. We heard

the crowing of cocks, but saw none. Some roots were baking on a fire in an

earthen jar, which would have held six or eight gallons; nor did we doubt

its being their own manufacture. As we proceeded up the creek, Mr Forster

having shot a duck flying over our heads, which was the first use these

people saw made of our fire-arms, my friend begged to have it; and when he

landed, told his countrymen in what manner it was killed. The day being far

spent, and the tide not permitting us to stay longer in the creek, we took

leave of the people and got on board a little after sun-set.[3] From this

little excursion, I found that we were to expect nothing from these people

but the privilege of visiting their country undisturbed. For it was easy to

see they had little else than good-nature to bestow. In this they exceeded

all the nations we had yet met with; and, although it did not satisfy the

demands of nature, it at once pleased and left our minds at ease.[4]

Next morning we were visited by some hundreds of the natives; some coming

in canoes, and others swimming off; so that, before ten o'clock, our decks,

and all other parts of the ship, were quite full with them. My friend, who

was of the number, brought me a few roots, but all the others came empty in

respect to eatables. Some few had with them their arms, such as clubs and

darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, &c. After

breakfast, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill with two armed boats to look for

fresh water; for what we found the day before was by no means convenient

for us to get on board. At the same time Mr Wales, accompanied by

lieutenant Clerke, went to the little isle to make preparations for

observing the eclipse of the sun, which was to be in the afternoon. Mr

Pickersgill soon returning, informed me that he had found a stream of fresh

water, pretty convenient to come at. I therefore ordered the launch to be

hoisted out to complete our water, and then went to the isle to assist in

the observation.[5]

About one p.m., the eclipse came on. Clouds interposed, and we lost the

first contact, but were more fortunate in the end, which was observed as

follows:

By Mr Wales with Dollond's 3 1/2 foot

achromatic refractor, at 3h 28' 39" 1/4 \

By Mr Clerke with Bird's 2 feet |Appa-

reflector, at 3 28 52 1/4 |rent

And by me with an 18 inch reflector |time.

made by Watkins, 3 28 53 1/4 /

Latitude of the isle or place

of observation, 20° 17' 39" S.

Longitude per distance of the sun and moon,

and moon and stars, 48 sets, 164° 41' 21" East.

Ditto per watch 163 58 0

Mr Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Hadley's quadrant, a method

never before thought of. I am of opinion it answers the purpose of a

micrometer to a great degree of certainty, and is a great addition to the

use of this most valuable instrument. After all was over, we returned on

board, where I found Teabooma the chief, who soon after slipped out of the

ship without my knowledge, and by that means lost the present I had made up

for him.

In the evening I went ashore to the watering-place, which was at the head

of a little creek, at a fine stream that came from the hills. It was

necessary to have a small boat in the creek to convey the casks from and to

the beach over which they were rolled, and then put into the launch; as

only a small boat could enter the creek, and that only at high water.

Excellent wood for fuel was here far more convenient than water, but this

was an article we did not want. About seven o'clock this evening, died

Simon Monk, our butcher, a man much esteemed in the ship; his death being

occasioned by a fall down the fore-hatch-way the preceding night.

Early in the morning of the 7th, the watering-party, and a guard, under the

command of an officer, were sent ashore; and soon after a party of us went

to take a view of the country. As soon as we landed we made known our

design to the natives, and two of them undertaking to be our guides,

conducted us up the hills by a tolerably good path. In our route, we met

several people, most or whom turned back with us; so that at last our train

was numerous. Some we met who wanted us to return; but we paid no regard to

their signs, nor did they seem uneasy when we proceeded. At length we

reached the summit of one of the hills, from which we saw the sea in two

places, between some advanced hills, on the opposite or S.W. side of the

land. This was an useful discovery, as it enabled us to judge of the

breadth of the land, which, in this part, did not exceed ten leagues.

Between those advanced hills, and the ridge we were upon, was a large

valley, through which ran a serpentine river. On the banks of this were

several plantations, and some villages, whose inhabitants we had met on the

road, and found more on the top of the hill gazing at the ship, as might be

supposed. The plain, or flat of land, which lies along the shore we were

upon, appeared from the hills to great advantage; the winding streams which

ran through out, the plantations, the little straggling villages, the

variety in the woods, and the shoals on the coast, so variegating the

scene, that the whole might afford a picture for romance. Indeed, if it

were not for those fertile spots on the plains, and some few on the sides

of the mountains, the whole country might be called a dreary waste. The

mountains, and other high places, are, for the most part, incapable of

cultivation, consisting chiefly of rocks, many of which are full of

mundicks. The little soil that is upon them is scorched and burnt up with

the sun; it is, nevertheless, coated with coarse grass and other plants,

and here and there trees and shrubs. The country, in general, bore great

resemblance to some parts of New Holland under the same parallel of

latitude, several of its natural productions seeming to be the same, and

the woods being without underwood, as in that country. The reefs on the

coast and several other similarities, were obvious to every one who had

seen both countries. We observed all the N.E. coast to be covered with

shoals and breakers, extending to the northward, beyond the Isle of

Balabea, till they were lost in the horizon. Having made these

observations, and our guides not chusing to go farther, we descended the

mountains by a road different from that by which we ascended. This brought

us down through some of their plantations in the plains, which I observed

were laid out with great judgment, and cultivated with much labour. Some of

them were lying in fallow, some seemingly lately laid down, and others of

longer date, pieces of which they were again beginning to dig up. The first

thing I observed they did, was to set fire to the grass, &c. which had

over-run the surface. Recruiting the land by letting it lie some years

untouched, is observed by all the nations in this sea; but they seem to

have no notion of manuring it, at least I have no where seen it done. Our

excursion was finished by noon, when we returned on board to dinner; and

one of our guides having left us, we brought the other with us, whose

fidelity was rewarded at a small expence.

In the afternoon I made a little excursion along-shore to the westward, in

company with Mr Wales. Besides making observations on such things as we

met, we got the names of several places, which I then thought were islands;

but upon farther enquiry, I found they were districts upon the same land.

This afternoon a fish being struck by one of the natives near the watering-

place, my clerk purchased it, and sent it to me after my return on board.

It was of a new species, something like a sun-fish, with a large long ugly

head. Having no suspicion of its being of a poisonous nature, we ordered it

to be dressed for supper; but, very luckily, the operation of drawing and

describing took up so much time, that it was too late, so that only the

liver and row were dressed, of which the two Mr Forsters and myself did but

taste. About three o'clock in the morning, we found ourselves seized with

an extraordinary weakness and numbness all over our limbs. I had almost

lost the sense of feeling; nor could I distinguish between light and heavy

bodies, of such as I had strength to move; a quart-pot, full of water, and

a feather, being the same in my hand. We each of us took an emetic, and

after that a sweat, which gave us much relief. In the morning, one of the

pigs, which had eaten the entrails, was found dead. When the natives came

on board and saw the fish hanging up, they immediately gave us to

understand it was not wholesome food, and expressed the utmost abhorrence

of it; though no one was observed to do this when the fish was to be sold,

or even after it was purchased.

On the 8th, the guard and a party of men were on shore as usual. In the

afternoon, I received a message from the officer, acquainting me that

Teabooma the chief was come with a present consisting of a few yams and

sugar-canes. In return, I sent him, amongst other articles, a dog and a

bitch, both young, but nearly full grown. The dog was red and white, but

the bitch was all red, or the colour of an English fox. I mention this,

because they may prove the Adam and Eve of their species in that country.

When the officer returned on board in the evening, he informed me that the

chief came, attended by about twenty men, so that it looked like a visit of

ceremony. It was some time before he would believe the dog and bitch were

intended for him; but as soon as he was convinced, he seemed lost in an

excess of joy, and sent them away immediately.

Next morning early, I dispatched Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr Gilbert with

the launch and cutter to explore the coast to the west; judging this would

be better effected in the boats than in the ship, as the reef would force

the latter several leagues from land. After breakfast, a party of men was

sent on shore, to make brooms; but myself and the two Mr Forsters were

confined on board, though much better, a good sweat having had an happy

effect. In the afternoon a man was seen, both ashore and alongside the

ship, said to be as white as an European. From the account I had of him

(for I did not see him,) his whiteness did not proceed from hereditary

descent, but from chance or some disease; and such have been seen at

Otaheite and the Society Isles.[6] A fresh easterly wind, and the ship

lying a mile from the shore, did not hinder those good-natured people from

swimming off to us in shoals of twenty or thirty, and returning the same

way.

On the 10th, a party was on shore as usual; and Mr Forster so well

recovered as to go out botanizing.

In the evening of the 11th, the boats returned, when I was informed of the

following circumstances. From an elevation which they reached the morning

they set out, they had a view of the coast. Mr Gilbert was of opinion that

they saw the termination of it to the west, but Mr Pickersgill thought not;

though both agreed that there was no passage for the ship that way. From

this place, accompanied by two of the natives, they went to Balabea, which

they did not reach till after sun-set, and left again next morning before

sun-rise; consequently this was a fruitless expedition, and the two

following days were spent in getting up to the ship. As they went down to

the isle, they saw abundance of turtle; but the violence of the wind and

sea made it impossible to strike any. The cutter was near being lost, by

suddenly filling with water, which obliged them to throw several things

overboard, before they could free her, and stop the leak she had sprung.

From a fishing canoe, which they met coming in from the reefs, they got as

much fish as they could eat; and they were received by Teabi, the chief of

the isle of Balabea, and the people, who came in numbers to see them, with

great courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, our people drew a line

on the ground, and gave the others to understand they were not to come

within it. This restriction they observed, and one of them, soon after,

turned to his own advantage. For happening to have a few cocoa-nuts, which

one of our people wanted to buy, and he was unwilling to part with, he

walked off, and was followed by the man who wanted them. On seeing this, he

sat down on the sand, made a circle round him, as he had seen our people

do, and signified that the other was not to come within it; which was

accordingly observed. As this story was well attested, I thought it not

unworthy of a place in this journal.[7]

Early in the morning of the 12th, I ordered the carpenter to work, to

repair the cutter, and the water to be re-placed, which we had expended the

three preceding days. As Tea Booma the chief had not been seen since he got

the dogs, and I wanted to lay a foundation for stocking the country with

hogs also, I took a young boar and a sow with me in the boat, and went up

to the mangrove creek to look for my friend, in order to give them to him.

But when we arrived there, we were told that he lived at some distance, and

that they would send for him. Whether they did or no I cannot say; but he

not coming, I resolved to give them to the first man of note I met with.

The guide we had to the hills happening to be there, I made him understand

that I intended to leave the two pigs on shore, and ordered them out of the

boat for that purpose. I offered them to a grave old man, thinking he was a

proper person to entrust them with; but he shook his head, and he and all

present, made signs to take them into the boat again. When they saw I did

not comply, they seemed to consult with one another what was to be done;

and then our guide told me to carry them to the Alekee (chief). Accordingly

I ordered them to be taken up, and we were conducted by him to a house,

wherein were seated, in a circle, eight or ten middle-aged persons. To them

I and my pigs being introduced, with great courtesy they desired me to sit

down; and then I began to expatiate on the merits of the two pigs,

explaining to them how many young ones the female would have at one time,

and how soon these would multiply to some hundreds. My only motive was to

enhance their value, that they might take the more care of them; and I had

reason to think I in some measure succeeded. In the mean time, two men

having left the company, soon returned with six yams, which were presented

to me; and then I took my leave and went on board.

I have already observed, that here was a little village; I now found it

much larger than I expected; and about it, a good deal of cultivated land,

regularly laid out, planted and planting with taro or eddy root, yams,

sugar-canes, and plantains. The taro plantations were prettily watered by

little rills, continually supplied from the main channel at the foot of the

mountains, from whence these streams were conducted in artful meanders.

They have two methods of planting these roots, some are in square or oblong

patches, which lie perfectly horizontal, and sink below the common level of

the adjacent land, so that they can let in on them as much water as they

think necessary. I have generally seen them covered two or three inches

deep; but I do not know that this is always necessary. Others are planted

in ridges about three or four feet broad, and two, or two and a half high.

On the middle or top of the ridge, is a narrow gutter, in and along which

is conveyed, as above described, a little rill that waters the roots,

planted in the ridge on each side of it; and these plantations are so

judiciously laid out, that the same stream waters several ridges. These

ridges are sometimes the divisions to the horizontal plantations; and when

this method is used, which is for the most part observed where a pathway,

or something of that sort, is requisite, not an inch of ground is lost.

Perhaps there may be some difference in the roots, which may make these two

methods of raising them necessary. Some are better tasted than others, and

they are not all of a colour; but be this as it may, they are very

wholesome food, and the tops make good greens, and are eaten as such by the

natives. On these plantations men, women, and children were employed.

In the afternoon I went on shore, and, on a large tree, which stood close

to the shore, near the watering-place, had an inscription cut, setting

forth the ship's name, date, &c. as a testimony of our being the first

discoverers of this country, as I had done at all others, at which we had

touched, where this ceremony was necessary. This being done, we took leave

of our friends, and returned on board; when I ordered all the boats to be

hoisted in, in order to be ready to put to sea in the morning.

[1] "The land, when discovered, appeared to be very high, and its

distance from us was about eight leagues, being seen through a haze,

which made it appear farther off than it really was. M. de

Bougainville takes notice of meeting with a part of the sea which was

entirely smooth, and where several pieces of wood and fruits floated

past his ship. This was nearly to the N.W. of the land which we now

discovered, and which, as an able and intelligent navigator, he had

conjectured to be in that direction."--G.F.

[2] A very striking proof of this is mentioned by Mr G.F. These

people, he says, laid some of their canoes on both sides of the

channel, in a place where it was narrow, and then beckoned to the

boats to keep in the middle between them. According to this gentleman,

the face of the country had a barren appearance, and was covered with

a sort of whitish grass, and trees somewhat resembling willows were

thinly spread on the mountains.--E.

[3] Mr. G.F. who shot the duck, tells us, that the natives expressed

some admiration, but not the smallest fear, at the report and effects

of the firearms.--E.

[4] "The whole plantation we saw, had a very scanty appearance, and

seemed to be insufficient to afford nourishment to the inhabitants

throughout the year. We entirely missed that variety of fruits, which

we had hitherto met with in the tropical islands, and naturally

recollected the poverty of the inhabitants of Easter Island, above

whom it appeared, that the people before us enjoyed but few

advantages. Towards the hills, of which the first risings were at the

distance of about two miles, the country looked extremely dreary; here

and there, indeed, we saw a few trees, and small uncultivated spots,

but they appeared to be lost on the great extent of barren and

unprofitable country, which resembled our moors more than any thing

else."--G.F.

[5] Mr G.F., who seems to have accompanied the watering-party, gives

the following account of the appearance of the country.--"We walked

along the beach which was sandy, and bounded by a fine wild shrubbery;

we soon came to a hut, from whence a number of plantations extended to

the back of the bank and wild wood. We rambled into the country, and

came to a canal that watered this plantation, but of which the water

was very brackish. From hence, however, we ran immediately to an

eminence near us, where the nature of the country appeared evidently

changed. The plain was covered with a thin stratum of vegetable soil,

which being very poor, was manured in the plantations with broken

shells and corals. The eminence, on the contrary, was a rocky ground,

consisting of large pieces of quartz and glimmer (_mica_). Here grew a

quantity of dry grasses, about two or three feet high, very thin in

most places; and at the distance of fifteen or twenty yards asunder,

we saw large trees black at the root, but with a bark perfectly whole

and loose, and having narrow long leaves like our willows. They were

of the sort which Linné calls _melaleuca leucadendra_, and Rumphius

_arbor alba_, who says that the natives of the Moluccas make the oil

of _cayputi_, from the leaves, which are indeed extremely fragrant and

aromatic. Not the least shrub was to be seen on this eminence, and the

trees did not intercept the distant prospect. We discerned from hence

a line of tufted trees and shrubberies, which extended from the sea-

side towards the mountains, and immediately concluded that they stood

on the banks of a rivulet. The banks of this were lined with

mangroves, beyond which a few other sorts of plants and trees occupied

a space of fifteen or twenty feet, which had a layer of vegetable

mould, charged with nutritive moisture, and covered with a green bed

of grasses, where the eye gladly reposed itself after viewing a

painted prospect. The border of shrubberies and wild-trees which lined

the sea-shore, was the most advantageous to us as naturalists; here we

met with some unknown plants, and saw a great variety of birds of

different classes, which were for the greatest part entirely new. But

the character of the inhabitants, and their friendly inoffensive

behaviour towards us, gave us greater pleasure than all the rest. We

found their number very inconsiderable, and their habitations very

thinly scattered. They commonly had built two or three houses near

each other, under a group of very lofty fig-trees, of which the

branches were so closely entwined, that the sky was scarcely visible

through the foliage, and the huts were involved in a perpetual cool

shade. They had another advantage besides, from this pleasant

situation; for numbers of birds continually twittered in the tufted

tops of the tree, and hid themselves from the scorching beams of the

sun. The wild circle of some species of creepers was very agreeable;

and conveyed a sensible pleasure to every one who delighted in this

kind of artless harmony. The inhabitants themselves were commonly

seated at the foot of these trees, which had this remarkable quality,

that they shot long roots from the upper part of the stem, perfectly

round, as if they had been made by a turner, into the ground, ten,

fifteen, and twenty feet from the tree, and formed a most exact strait

line, being extremely elastic, and as tense as a bow-string prepared

for action. The bark of these trees seems to be the substance of which

they make those little bits of cloth, so remarkable in their dress."--

G.F.

[6] Wafers met with Indians in the Isthmus of Darien of the colour of

a white horse. See his Description of the Isthmus, page 134. See also

Mr de Paw's Philosophical Enquiries concerning Americans, where

several other instances of this remarkable whiteness are mentioned,

and the causes of it attempted to be explained.--This note is by

Captain Cook. The reader may not have forgotten some remarks on the

subject, in a former volume.--E.

[7] It is also worth while noticing the following circumstance, which

occurred during this excursion. "The appearance of a large beef-bone,

which some of our people began to pick towards the conclusion of their

supper, interrupted a conversation that was carried on with the

natives. They talked very loud and earnestly to each other, looked

with great surprise, and some marks of disgust, at our people, and at

last went away altogether, expressing by signs that they suspected the

strangers of eating human flesh. Our officer endeavoured to free

himself and his shipmates from this suspicion; but the want of

language was an insurmountable obstacle to his undertaking, even

supposing it possible to persuade a set of people, who had never seen

a quadruped in their lives."--G.F.

Notwithstanding this appearance of dislike to so horrid a practice, it

must not be hastily inferred, that these people are themselves free

from the vice which they condemned. On the contrary, one might rather

imagine that their so readily conjecturing the circumstance, from what

they saw, proceeded from a conviction of their own occasional

acquiescence in it; and that their present umbrage arose from

apprehension of their own danger in the hands of persons so much more

powerful than themselves. But we reserve the subject of cannibalism

for another place, where perhaps it will be shewn that those very

people are not free from this opprobrium of the savage state. The

reader is already aware, that the younger Forster is not to be too

strictly relied on as to his accounts of our species in its rude

condition, more particularly where it is possible, with some stretch

of liberality, to substitute the pleasing dreams of fancy for the

disagreeable realities of truth.--E.

SECTION IX.

_A Description of the Country and its Inhabitants; their Manners,

Customs, and Arts._

I shall conclude our transactions at this place with some account of the

country and its inhabitants. They are a strong, robust, active, well-made

people, courteous and friendly, and not in the least addicted to pilfering,

which is more than can be said of any other nation in this sea. They are

nearly of the same colour as the natives of Tanna, but have better

features, more agreeable countenances, and are a much stouter race; a few

being seen who measured six feet four inches. I observed some who had thick

lips, flat noses, and full cheeks, and, in some degree, the features and

look of a negro. Two things contributed to the forming of such an idea;

first, their rough mop heads, and, secondly, their besmearing their faces

with black pigment. Their hair and beards are, in general, black. The

former is very much frizzled, so that, at first sight, it appears like that

of a negro. It is, nevertheless, very different, though both coarser and

stronger than ours. Some, who wear it long, tie it up on the crown of the

head; others suffer only a large lock to grow on each side, which they tie

up in clubs; many others, as well as all the women, wear it cropped short.

These rough heads, most probably, want frequent scratching; for which

purpose they have a most excellent instrument. This is a kind of comb made

of sticks of hard wood, from seven to nine or ten inches long, and about

the thickness of knitting-needles. A number of these, seldom exceeding

twenty, but generally fewer, is fastened together at one end, parallel to,

and near one-tenth of an inch from each other. The other ends, which are a

little pointed, will spread out or open like the sticks of a fan, by which

means they can beat up the quarters of an hundred lice at a time. These

combs or scratchers, for I believe they serve both purposes, they always

wear in their hair, on one side their head. The people of Tanna have an

instrument of this kind for the same use; but theirs is forked, I think,

never exceeding three or four prongs; and sometimes only a small pointed

stick. Their beards, which are of the same crisp nature as their hair, are,

for the most part, worn short. Swelled and ulcerated legs and feet are

common among the men; as also a swelling of the scrotum. I know not whether

this is occasioned by disease, or by the mode of applying the wrapper

before-mentioned, and which they use as at Tanna and Mallicollo. This is

their only covering, and is made generally of the bark of a tree, but

sometimes of leaves. The small pieces of cloth, paper, &c. which they got

from us, were commonly applied to this use. We saw coarse garments amongst

them, made of a sort of matting, but they seemed never to wear them, except

when out in their canoes and unemployed. Some had a kind of concave,

cylindrical, stiff black cap, which appeared to be a great ornament among

them, and, we thought, was only worn by men of note or warriors. A large

sheet of strong paper, when they got one from us, was generally applied to

this use.

The women's dress is a short petticoat, made of the filaments of the

plantain-tree, laid over a cord, to which they are fastened, and tied round

the waist. The petticoat is made at least six or eight inches thick, but

not one inch longer than necessary for the use designed. The outer

filaments are dyed black; and, as an additional ornament, the most of them

have a few pearl oyster-shells fixed on the right side. The general

ornaments of both sexes are ear-rings of tortoise-shell, necklaces or

amulets, made both of shells and stones, and bracelets, made of large

shells, which they wear above the elbow. They have punctures, or marks on

the skin, on several parts of the body; but none, I think, are black, as at

the Eastern Islands. I know not if they have any other design than

ornament; and the people of Tanna are marked much in the same manner.[1]

Were I to judge of the origin of this nation, I should take them to be a

race between the people of Tanna and of the Friendly Isles, or between

those of Tanna and the New Zealanders, or all three; their language, in

some respects, being a mixture of them all. In their disposition they are

like the natives of the Friendly Isles; but in affability and honesty they

excel them.

Notwithstanding their pacific inclination they must sometimes have wars, as

they are well provided with offensive weapons, such as clubs, spears,

darts, and slings for throwing stones. The clubs are about two feet and a

half long, and variously formed; some like a scythe, others like a pick-

axe; some have a head like an hawk, and others have round heads, but all

are neatly made. Many of their darts and spears are no less neat, and

ornamented with carvings. The slings are as simple as possible; but they

take some pains to form the stones that they use into a proper shape, which

is something like an egg, supposing both ends to be like the small one.[2]

They use a becket, in the same manner as at Tanna, in throwing the dart,

which, I believe, is much used in striking fish, &c. In this they seem very

dexterous; nor, indeed, do I know that they have any other method of

catching large fish, for I neither saw hooks nor lines among them.

It is needless to mention their working-tools, as they are made of the same

materials, and nearly in the same manner, as at the other islands. Their

axes, indeed, are a little different; some, at least, which may be owing to

fancy as much as custom.

Their houses, or at least most of them, are circular, something like a bee-

hive, and full as close and warm. The entrance is by a small door, or long

square hole, just big enough to admit a man bent double. The side-walls are

about four feet and a half high, but the roof is lofty, and peaked to a

point at the top; above which is a post, or stick of wood, which is

generally ornamented either with carving or shells, or both. The framing is

of small spars, reeds, &c. and both sides and roof are thick and close

covered with thatch, made of coarse long grass. In the inside of the house

are set up posts, to which cross spars are fastened, and platforms made,

for the conveniency of laying any thing on. Some houses have two floors,

one above the other. The floor is laid with dry grass, and here and there

mats are spread, for the principal people to sleep or sit on. In most of

them we found two fire-places, and commonly a fire burning; and, as there

was no vent for the smoke but by the door, the whole house was both smoky

and hot, insomuch that we, who were not used to such an atmosphere, could

hardly endure it a moment. This may be the reason why we found these people

so chilly when in the open air, and without exercise. We frequently saw

them make little fires any where, and hustle round them, with no other view

than to warm themselves. Smoke within doors may be a necessary evil, as it

prevents the musquitoes from coming in, which are pretty numerous here. In

some respects their habitations are neat; for, besides the ornaments at

top, I saw some with carved door-posts. Upon the whole, their houses are

better calculated for a cold than a hot climate; and as there are no

partitions in them, they can have little privacy.

They have no great variety of household utensils; the earthen jars before

mentioned being the only article worth notice. Each family has at least one

of them, in which they bake their roots, and perhaps their fish, &c. The

fire, by which they cook their victuals, is on the outside of each house,

in the open air. There are three or five pointed stones fixed in the

ground, their pointed ends being about six inches above the surface. Those

of three stones are only for one jar, those of five stones for two. The

jars do not stand on their bottoms, but lie inclined on their sides. The

use of these stones is obviously to keep the jars from resting on the fire,

in order that it may burn the better.

They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and the bark of a tree, which I am

told grows also in the West Indies. This they roast, and are almost

continually chewing. It has a sweetish, insipid taste, and was liked by

some of our people. Water is their only liquor, at least I never saw any

other made use of.

Plantains and sugar-canes are by no means in plenty. Bread-fruit is very

scarce, and the cocoa-nut trees are small and but thinly planted; and

neither one nor the other seems to yield much fruit.

To judge merely by the numbers of the natives we saw every day, one might

think the island very populous; but I believe that, at this time, the

inhabitants were collected from all parts on our account. Mr Pickersgill

observed, that down the coast, to the west, there were but few people; and

we knew they came daily from the other side of the land, over the

mountains, to visit us. But although the inhabitants, upon the whole, may

not be numerous, the island is not thinly peopled on the sea-coast, and in

the plains and valleys that are capable of cultivation. It seems to be a

country unable to support many inhabitants. Nature has been less bountiful

to it than to any other tropical island we know in this sea. The greatest

part of its surface, or at least what we saw of it, consists of barren

rocky mountains; and the grass, &c. growing on them, is useless to people

who have no cattle.

The sterility of the country will apologise for the natives not

contributing to the wants of the navigator. The sea may, perhaps, in some

measure, compensate for the deficiency of the land; for a coast surrounded

by reefs and shoals, as this is, cannot fail of being stored with fish.

I have before observed, that the country bears great resemblance to New

South Wales, or New Holland, and that some of its natural productions are

the same. In particular, we found here, the tree which is covered with a

soft white ragged bark, easily peeled off, and is, as I have been told, the

same that, in the East Indies, is used for caulking of ships. The wood is

very hard, the leaves are long and narrow, of a pale dead green, and a fine

aromatic; so that it may properly be said to belong to that continent.

Nevertheless, here are several plants, &c. common to the eastern and

northern islands, and even a species of the passionflower, which, I am

told, has never before been known to grow wild any where but in America.

Our botanists did not complain for want of employment at this place; every

day bringing something new in botany or other branches of natural history.

Land-birds, indeed, are not numerous, but several are new. One of these is

a kind of crow, at least so we called it, though it is not half so big, and

its feathers are tinged with blue. They also have some very beautiful

turtle-doves, and other small birds, such as I never saw before.[3]

All our endeavours to get the name of the whole island proved ineffectual.

Probably it is too large for them to know by one name. Whenever we made

this enquiry, they always gave us the name of some district or place, which

we pointed to; and, as before observed, I got the names of several, with

the name of the king or chief of each. Hence I conclude, that the country

is divided into several districts, each governed by a chief; but we know

nothing of the extent of his power. Balade was the name of the district we

were at, and Tea Booma the chief. He lived on the other side of the ridge

of hills, so that we had but little of his company, and therefore could not

see much of his power. _Tea_ seems a title prefixed to the names of

all, or most, of their chiefs or great men. My friend honoured me by

calling me _Tea_ Cook.

They deposit their dead in the ground. I saw none of their burying-places,

but several of the gentlemen did. In one, they were informed, lay the

remains of a chief who was slain in battle; and his grave, which bore some

resemblance to a large mole-hill, was decorated with spears, darts,

paddles, &c. all stuck upright in the ground round about it. The canoes,

which these people use, are somewhat like those of the Friendly Isles; but

the most heavy clumsy vessels I ever saw. They are what I call double

canoes, made out of two large trees, hollowed out, having a raised gunnel,

about two inches high, and closed at each end with a kind of bulk-head of

the same height; so that the whole is like a long square trough, about

three feet shorter than the body of the canoe; that is, a foot and a half

at each end. Two canoes, thus fitted, are secured to each other, about

three feet asunder, by means of cross spars, which project about a foot

over each side. Over these spars is laid a deck, or very heavy platform,

made of plank, and small round spars, on which they have a fire-hearth, and

generally a fire burning; and they carry a pot or jar to dress their

victuals in. The space between the two canoes is laid with plank, and the

rest with spars. On one side of the deck, and close to the edge, is fixed a

row of knees, pretty near to each other, the use of which is to keep the

masts, yards, &c. from, rolling over-board. They are navigated by one or

two lateen-sails, extended to a small lateen-yard, the end of which fixes

in a notch or hole in the deck. The foot of the sail is extended to a small

boom. The sail is composed of pieces of matting, the ropes are made of the

coarse filaments of the plantain-tree, twisted into cords of the thickness

of a finger; and three or four more such cords, marled together, serve them

for shrouds, &c. I thought they sailed very well; but they are not at all

calculated for rowing or paddling. Their method of proceeding, when they

cannot sail, is by sculling, and for this purpose there are holes in the

boarded deck or platform. Through these they put the sculls, which are of

such a length, that, when the blade is in the water, the loom or handle is

four or five feet above the deck. The man who works it stands behind, and

with both his hands sculls the vessel forward. This method of proceeding is

very slow; and for this reason, the canoes are but ill calculated for

fishing, especially for striking of turtle, which, I think, can hardly ever

be done in them. Their fishing implements, such as I have seen, are turtle-

nets, made, I believe, of the filaments of the plantain-tree twisted; and

small hand-nets, with very minute meshes made of fine twine and fish-gigs.

Their general method of fishing, I guess, is to lie on the reefs in shoal

water, and to strike the fish that may come in their way. They may,

however, have other methods, which we had no opportunity to see, as no boat

went out while we were here; all their time and attention being taken up

with us. Their canoes are about thirty feet long, and the deck or platform

about twenty-four in length, and ten in breadth. We had not, at this time,

seen any timber in the country so large as that of which their canoes were

made. It was observed that the holes, made in the several parts, in order

to sew them together, were burnt through, but with what instrument we never

learnt. Most probably it was of stone, which may be the reason why they

were so fond of large spikes, seeing at once they would answer this

purpose. I was convinced they were not wholly designed for edge-tools,

because every one shewed a desire for the iron belaying-pins which were

fixed in the quarter-deck rail, and seemed to value them far more than a

spike-nail, although it might be twice as big. These pins, which are round,

perhaps have the very shape of the tool they wanted to make of the nails. I

did not find that a hatchet was quite so valuable as a large spike. Small

nails were of little or no value; and beads, looking-glasses, &c. they did

not admire.

The women of this country, and likewise those of Tanna, are, so far as I

could judge, far more chaste than those of the more eastern islands. I

never heard that one of our people obtained the least favour from any one

of them. I have been told that the ladies here would frequently divert

themselves by going a little aside with our gentlemen, as if they meant to

be kind to them, and then would run away laughing at them. Whether this was

chastity or coquetry, I shall not pretend to determine; nor is it material,

since the consequences were the same.[4]

[1] Mr G.F. says their dress was very disfiguring, and gave them a

thick squat shape. He describes it much like Captain Cook. According

to him, these women's features, though coarse, expressed great good-

nature; they had high foreheads, broad flat noses, rather small eyes,

and very prominent cheek-bones. His reflections on the degraded state

in which these women live, as subservient entirely to the arbitrary

will and necessary purposes of their husbands, have not so much

originality as force, but possess, however, enough of both to deserve

a place here. "They commonly kept at a distance from the men, and

seemed fearful of offending them by a look or gesture; they were the

only persons in the family who had any employment, and several of them

brought bundles of sticks and fuel on their backs. Their insensible

husbands seldom deigned to look upon them, and continued in a kind of

phlegmatic indolence, whilst the women sometimes indulged that social

cheerfulness, which is the distinguishing ornament of the sex. Thus,

in every country, mankind are fond of being tyrants, and the poorest

Indian, who knows no wants but those which his existence requires, has

already learnt to enslave his weaker help-mate, in order to save

himself the trouble of supplying their wants, and cruelly exacts an

obedience from her, which has been continued among savages as a curse

upon the sex. Considering these humiliations and cruel oppressions of

the sex, we have sometimes the greatest reason to admire, that the

human race has perpetuated itself, and that the Creator has wisely

planted a motive in the female breast, which stands the test of every

outrage, which makes them patient to suffer, and prevents their

withdrawing from the power of their tyrants." This indeed is one of

the most striking and important instances that can be adduced, of what

has been called final causes, the determinate choice of an end, and

the skilful adaptation of means to the accomplishment of it. A nation

of women, we may confidently say, is as much a chimera, as a nation of

two-headed men; and that individual has little acquaintance with

herself that knows not, there is an insuperable objection to so

anomalous an occurrence. With whatever abuses of authority, therefore,

the other sex may be chargeable, it is not to be denied, that they

assert their superiority on the ground of natural constitution, and

that they cannot be considered as usurpers. Admitting this, it is

important to enquire, what is the principle common to both, on which

their mutual welfare depends, and which is as certainly violated by

unfeeling rigour on one side, as by peevish rebellion on the other.

Several principles might be mentioned, claiming in part this

distinction, but none will answer all the conditions, except a right

sense of their entire and common dependence on the source of their

being and judge of their conduct, which is indeed the essence of

religion and morality. It is vain, in fact, to determine almost any

thing respecting such a creature as man, but by reasons of an eternal

nature, and referring to the laws of an invisible world. Every system

of an inferior kind, will be found inadequate in its application, and

unsatisfactory in its sanctions--calculated, it may be, to amuse the

philosopher in his closet, and attract the admiration of young and

inexperienced minds, but too weak to sustain the shock of human

passions, and too circumscribed to reach the heights of human hopes

and fears. The condition of women improves, undoubtedly, as a people

advances towards civilization; but there is a period in the process,

at which voluptuousness, more cruel than indifference, and often

maddened by jealousy, subjects her to greater degradation than her

original insignificance, and destroys all hope of her amelioration in

the tyranny of her own licentiousness. It is only where the principle

alluded to, is publicly recognised in the civil institutions of a

country, and conscientiously reverenced by the piety of its citizens,

that she attains the true dignity of her destiny in an equal

subordination, and vindicates the benevolence of the Deity in her

creation, by the increase of happiness she confers on her consort.

This cannot be looked for in a state of nature.--E.

[2] "These slings consisted of a slender round cord, no thicker than a

packthread, which had a tassel at one end, and a loop at the other end

and in the middle. The stones which they used were oblong, and pointed

at each end, being made of a soft and unctuous soap-rock

(_smectitis_), which could easily be rubbed into that shape. These

exactly fitted the loop in the middle of the sling, and were kept in a

wallet or pocket of coarse cloth, strongly woven, of a kind of grass,

which was tied on about the middle. Their shape gives them a striking

resemblance to the _glandes plumbeae_ of the Romans."--G.F.

[3] Unfortunately the severe effects of the noxious fish, so sparingly

partaken of, disabled the two Forsters from their favourite pursuits,

during the greater part of their residence at New Caledonia. The

result of their labours was, in consequence, very scanty, and,

according to the younger F.'s assertions, received little or no

encouragement from the friendly services of many of their fellow

voyagers. He has inveighed with no small asperity against the ignorant

selfishness and unprincipled hostility with which they had to contend.

These seem to have been of a flagrant appearance, and almost

systematic consistency. "If there had not been a few individuals,"

says he, "of a more liberal way of thinking, whose disinterested love

for the sciences comforted us from time to time, we should in all

probability have fallen victims to that malevolence, which even the

positive commands of Captain Cook were sometimes insufficient to keep

within bounds." However the reader may conjecture the existence of

certain personal causes which are here complained of, he cannot but

regret, that the interests of the expedition should in any manner have

suffered loss by the contention. But such things, he will say, are

incident to human nature, and have frequently taken place on even more

important occasions. This is very true, but gives no comfort.--E.

[4] Mr G.F. calls this deceptive amusement, "an innocent recreation,

which shewed them good-humoured, and not destitute of ingenuity!" He

agrees with Cook respecting the universal decency of these people,

which forms so striking a dissimilarity to the immodest conduct of the

other islanders met with in this voyage. The following remarks specify

other differences, and are worthy of being transcribed:--"It is easy

to be conceived, that the contrast between New Caledonia and the New

Hebrides, was very striking to us, who had so lately visited those

rich and fertile islands, where the vegetable kingdom glories in its

greatest perfection. The difference in the character of the people was

no less surprising. All the natives of the South-Sea islands,

excepting those only which Tasman found on Tonga-Tabboo and Annamocka,

(and those perhaps had been informed of what had passed between Le

Maire, and the natives of Horne, Cocos, and Traitor's island, some

years before,) made some attempt to drive away the strangers who came

to visit them. But the people of New Caledonia, at the first sight of

us, received us as friends; they ventured to come on board our ship,

without the least marks of fear or distrust, and suffered us to ramble

freely throughout their country as far as we pleased. As nature has

been so sparing here of her gifts, it is the more surprising that

instead of seeing the inhabitants savage, distrustful, and warlike, as

at Tanna, we should find them peaceable, well-disposed, and

unsuspicious. It is not less remarkable, that, in spite of the drought

which prevails in their country, and the scanty supply of vegetable

food, they should have attained to a greater size, and a more muscular

body. Perhaps, instead of placing the causes which effect disparity of

stature among various nations in the difference of food, this instance

ought to teach us to have retrospect likewise to the original races

from which those tribes are descended, that fell under our

examination. Let us, for instance, suppose, that the people of New

Caledonia are the offspring of a nation, who, by living in affluence

and in a genial climate, have not been stinted in their growth; the

colony which removed into the barren soil of New Caledonia, will

probably preserve the habit of body of their ancestors for many

generations. The people of Tanna may have undergone a contrary

revolution, and being descended of a slender and short race, like the

Mallicollese, the richness of their present country may not yet have

entirely taken effect. The inoffensive character of the people of New

Caledonia appears to great advantage in their conduct towards us. They

are the only people in the South Seas who have not had reason to

complain of our arrival among them. When we consider how easy it is to

provoke the mariner to sport with the lives of Indians, from the

numerous examples throughout this narrative, we must acknowledge that

it required an uncommon degree of good temper, not to draw upon

themselves a single act of brutality. Those philosophers who are of

opinion that the temper, the manners, and genius of a people, depend

entirely upon the climate, will be at a loss to account for the

peaceful character of the inhabitants of New Caledonia. If we admit

that they are only strangers to distrust, because they have little to

lose, we shall not solve the difficulty; since the people of New

Holland, under the influence of a similar climate and soil, and in a

more wretched situation than the inhabitants of New Caledonia, are

savage and unsociable. The different characters of nations seem

therefore to depend upon a multitude of different causes, which have

acted together during a series of many ages. The inhabitants of New

Caledonia do not owe their kind disposition to a total ignorance of

wars and disputes; the variety of their offensive weapons being alone

sufficient to put this matter out of doubt. By conversing with them we

learnt that they have enemies, and that the people of an island called

Mingha had a very different character from their own. Civilization is

much farther advanced in some respects among them, than with their

more opulent neighbours. That higher degree of culture, however, where

the understanding is sufficiently enlightened to remove the unjust

contempt shown to the fair sex, is unknown to them; their temper is

too grave to be captivated by female blandishments, or to set a proper

value upon the refined enjoyments of life. They are obliged to work

hard, at times, for the means of subsistence; but their leisure hours

are spent in indolence, without those little recreations which

contribute so much to the happiness of mankind, and diffuse a spirit

of chearfulness and vivacity throughout the Society and Friendly

Islands. Besides a sort of whistle, made of wood, about two inches

long, and shaped like a bell, having two holes at its base and one at

the upper end, we never saw a musical instrument among the people of

New Caledonia. Their dances and songs are equally unknown to us; and

what we observed during our short stay, gave us reason to suppose,

that even laughter is an uncommon guest among them."--G.F.

SECTION X.

_Proceedings on the Coast of New Caledonia, with Geographical and

Nautical Observations._

Everything being in readiness to put to sea, at sun-rise, on the 13th of

September, we weighed, and with a fine gale at E. by S., stood out for the

same channel we came in by. At half past seven we were in the middle of it.

Observatory Isle bore S. 5° E., distant four miles, and the isle of Balabea

W.N.W. As soon as we were clear of the reef, we hauled the wind to the

starboard tack, with a view of plying in to the S.E.; but as Mr Gilbert was

of opinion that he had seen the end, or N.W. extremity of the land, and

that it would be easier to get round by the N.W., I gave over plying, and

bore up along the outside of the reef, steering N.N.W., N.W., and N.W. by

W., as it trended. At noon the island of Balabea bore S. by W., distant

thirteen miles; and what we judged to be the west end of the great land,

bore S.W. 1/2 S., and the direction of the reef was N.W. by W., latitude

observed 19° 53' 20". Longitude from Observatory Isle 14' W. We continued

to steer N.W. by W. along the outside of the reef till three o'clock, at

which time the isle of Balabea bore S. by E. 1/2 E. In this direction we

observed a partition in the reef, which we judged to be a channel, by the

strong tide which set out of it. From this place the reef inclined to the

north for three or four leagues, and then to the N.W. We followed its

direction, and as we advanced to N.W., raised more land, which seemed to be

connected with what we had seen before; so that Mr Gilbert was mistaken,

and did not see the extremity of the coast. At five o'clock this land bore

W. by N. 1/2 N., distant twenty miles; but what we could see of the reef

trended in the direction of N.W. by N.

Having hauled the wind to the starboard tack, and spent the night plying,

on the 14th, at sun-rise, the island of Balabea bore S. 6 E., and the land

seen the preceding night W., but the reef still trended N.W., along which

we steered with a light breeze at E.S.E. At noon we observed in latitude

19° 28', longitude from Observatory Isle 27' W. We had now no sight of

Balabea; and the other land, that is, the N.W. part of it, bore W. by S.

1/2 S., but we were not sure if this was one continued coast, or separate

islands. For though some partitions were seen, from space to space, which

made it look like the latter, a multitude of shoals rendered a nearer

approach to it exceedingly dangerous, if not impracticable. In the

afternoon, with a fine breeze at E.S.E., we ranged the outside of these

shoals, which we found to trend in the direction of N.W. by W., N.W. by N.,

and N.N.E. At three o'clock we passed a low sandy isle, lying on the outer

edge of the reef, in latitude 19° 25', and in the direction of N.E. from

the north-westernmost land, six or seven leagues distant. So much as we

could see of this space was strewed with shoals, seemingly detached from

each other; and the channel leading in amongst them appeared to be on the

S.E. side of the sandy isle; at least, there was a space where the sea did

not break. At sun-set we could but just see the land, which bore S.W. by

S., about ten leagues distant. A clear horizon produced the discovery of no

land to the westward of this direction; the reef too trended away W. by N.

1/2 N., and seemed to terminate in a point which was seen from the mast-

head. Thus every thing conspired to make us believe that we should soon get

round these shoals; and with these flattering expectations we hauled the

wind, which was at E.N.E., and spent the night making short boards.

Next morning at sun-rise, seeing neither land nor breakers, we bore away

N.W. by W., and two hours after saw the reef extending N.W. farther than

the eye could reach; no land was to be seen. It was therefore probable that

we had passed its N.W. extremity; and, as we had seen from the hills of

Balade its extent to the S.W., it was necessary to know how far it extended

to the east or southeast, while it was in our power to recover the coast;

for, by following the direction of the shoals, we might have been carried

so far to leeward as not to be able to beat back without considerable loss

of time. We were already far out of sight of land; and there was no knowing

how much farther we might be carried, before we found an end to them. These

considerations, together with the risk we must run in exploring a sea

strewed with shoals, and where no anchorage, without them, is to be found,

induced me to abandon the design of proceeding round by the N.W., and to

ply up to the S.E, in which direction I knew there was a clear sea. With

this view we tacked and stood to the S.E., with the wind at N.E. by E., a

gentle breeze. At this time we were in the latitude of 19° 7' S., longitude

163° 57' E.

In standing to the S.E. we did but just weather the point of the reef we

had passed the preceding evening. To make our situation the more dangerous

the wind began to fail us; and at three in the afternoon it fell calm, and

left us to the mercy of a great swell, setting directly on the reef, which

was hardly a league from us. We sounded, but found no bottom with a line of

two hundred fathoms. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to be hoisted out to

tow the ship, but they were of little use against so great a swell. We,

however, found that the ship did not draw near the reef so fast as might be

expected; and at seven o'clock a light air at N.N.E. kept her head to the

sea, but it lasted no longer than midnight, when it was succeeded by a dead

calm.

At day-break on the 16th we had no sight of the reef; and at eleven, a

breeze springing up at S.S.W., we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to

S.E. At noon we observed in 19° 35' S., which was considerably more to the

south than we expected, and shewed that a current or tide had been in our

favour all night, and accounted for our getting so unexpectedly clear of

the shoals. At two o'clock p.m. we had again a calm which lasted till nine,

when it was succeeded by a light air from E.N.E. and E., with which we

advanced but slowly.

On the 17th at noon, we observed in latitude 19° 54', when the isle of

Balabea bore S. 68° W., ten and a half leagues distant. We continued to

ply, with variable light winds, between N.E. and S.E., without meeting with

any thing remarkable till the 20th at noon, when Cape Colnett bore

N. 78° W., distant six leagues. From this cape the land extended round by

the south to E.S.E. till it was lost in the horizon, and the country

appeared with many hills and vallies. Latitude observed 20° 41', longitude

made from Observatory Isle 1° 8' E. We stood in shore with a light breeze

at east till sun-set, when we were between two and three leagues off. The

coast extended from S. 42° 1/2 E. to N. 59° W. Two small islets lay without

this last direction, distant from us four or five miles; some others lay

between us and the shore, and to the east, where they seemed to be

connected by reefs, in which appeared some openings from space to space.

The country was mountainous, and had much the same aspect as about Balade.

On one of the western small isles was an elevation like a tower; and over a

low neck of land within the isle were seen many other elevations,

resembling the masts of a fleet of ships.

Next day at sun-rise, after having stood off all night with a light breeze

at S.E., we found ourselves about six leagues from the coast; and in this

situation we were kept by a calm till ten in the evening, when we got a

faint land-breeze at S.W., with which we steered S.E. all night.,

On the 22d at sun-rise the land was clouded, but it was not long before the

clouds went off, and we found, by our land-marks, that we had made a good

advance. At ten o'clock, the land-breeze being succeeded by a sea-breeze at

E. by S., this enabled us to stand in for the land, which at noon extended

from N. 78° W. to S. 31° 1/2 E., round by the S. In this last direction the

coast seemed to trend more to the south in a lofty promontory, which, on

account of the day, received the name of Cape Coronation. Latitude 22° 2',

longitude 167° 7' 1/2 E. Some breakers lay between us and the shore, and

probably they were connected with those we had seen before.

During the night, we had advanced about two leagues to the S.E.; and at

day-break on the 23d an elevated point appeared in sight beyond Cape

Coronation, bearing S. 23° E. It proved to be the south-east extremity of

the coast, and obtained the name of Queen Charlotte's Foreland. Latitude

22° 16' S., longitude 167° 14' E. About noon, having got a breeze from the

N.E., we stood to S.S.E., and as we drew towards Cape Coronation, saw in a

valley to the south of it, a vast number of those elevated objects before-

mentioned; and some low land under the foreland was wholly covered with

them. We could not agree in our opinions of what they were. I supposed them

to be a singular sort of trees, being too numerous to resemble any thing

else; and a great deal of smoke kept rising all the day from amongst those

near the cape. Our philosophers were of opinion that this was the smoke of

some internal and perpetual fire. My representing to them that there was no

smoke here in the morning would have been of no avail, had not this eternal

fire gone out before night, and no more smoke been seen after. They were

still more positive that the elevations were pillars of basaltes, like

those which compose the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. At sun-set, the wind

veering round to the south, we tacked and stood off, it not being safe to

approach the shore in the dark. At day-break we stood in again, with a

faint land-breeze between E.S.E. and S.S.E. At noon observed, in latitude

21° 59' 30", Cape Coronation being west southerly, distant seven leagues,

and the foreland S. 38° W. As we advanced S.S.W. the coast beyond the

foreland began to appear in sight; and at sun-set we discovered a low

island lying S.S.E, about seven miles from the foreland. It was one of

those which are generally surrounded with shoals and breakers. At the same

time a round hill was seen bearing S. 24° E, twelve leagues distant. During

night, having had variable light winds, we advanced but little either way.

On the 25th, about ten o'clock a.m., having got a fair breeze at E.S.E., we

stood to the S.S.W., in hopes of getting round the foreland; but, as we

drew near, we perceived more low isles, beyond the one already mentioned,

which at last appeared to be connected by breakers, extending towards the

foreland, and seeming to join the shore. We stood on till half past three

o'clock, when we saw, from the deck, rocks, just peeping above the surface

of the sea, on the shoal above-mentioned. It was now time to alter the

course, as the day was too far spent to look for a passage near the shore,

and we could find no bottom to anchor in during the night. We therefore

stood to the south to look for a passage without the small isles. We had a

fine breeze at E.S.E., but it lasted no longer than five o'clock, when it

fell to a dead calm. Having sounded, a line of 170 fathoms did not reach

the bottom, though we were but a little way from the shoals, which, instead

of following the coast to S.W., took a S.E. direction towards the hill we

had seen the preceding evening, and seemed to point out to us that it was

necessary to go round that land. At this time the most advanced point on

the main bore S. 68° W., distant nine or ten leagues. About seven o'clock

we got a light breeze at north, which enabled us to steer out E.S.E., and

to spend the night with less anxiety. On some of the low isles were many of

those elevations already mentioned. Every one was now satisfied they were

trees, except our philosophers, who still maintained that they were

basaltes.[1]

About day-break on the 26th, the wind having shifted to S.S.W., we

stretched to S.E. for the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an island

which at noon extended from S. 16° E. to S. 7° W., distant six leagues.

Latitude observed 22° 16' S. In the p.m. the wind freshened, and veering to

S.S.E., we stretched to the east, till two a.m., on the 27th, when we

tacked and stood to S.W., with hopes of weathering the island; but we fell

about two miles short of our expectations, and had to tack about a mile

from the east side of the island, the extremes bearing from N.W. by N. to

S.W., the hill W., and some low isles, lying off the S.E. point, S. by W.

These seemed to be connected with the large island by breakers. We sounded

when in stays, but had no ground with a line of eighty fathoms. The skirts

of this island were covered with the elevations more than once mentioned.

They had much the appearance of tall pines, which occasioned my giving that

name to the island. The round hill, which is on the S.W. side, is of such a

height as to be seen fourteen or sixteen leagues. The island is about a

mile in circuit, and situated in latitude 22° 38' S., longitude 167° 40' E.

Having made two attempts to weather the Isle of Pines before sun-set, with

no better success, than before, this determined me to stretch off till

midnight. This day at noon the thermometer was at 68° 3/4 which is lower

than it had been since the 27th of February.

Having tacked at midnight, assisted by the currents and a fresh gale at E.

S.E. and S.E., next morning at day-break we found ourselves several leagues

to windward of the Isle of Pines, and bore away large, round the S.E. and

S. sides. The coast from the S.E., round by the S. to the W., was strewed

with sand-banks, breakers, and small low isles, most of which were covered

with the same lofty trees that ornamented the borders of the greater one.

We continued to range the outside of these small isles and breakers, at

three-fourths of a league distance, and as we passed one, raised another,

so that they seemed to form a chain extending to the isles which lie off

the foreland. At noon we observed, in latitude 22° 44' 36" S. the Isle of

Pines extending from N by E 1/2 E. to E. by N.; and Cape Coronation N. 32°

30' W distant seventeen leagues. In the afternoon, with a fine gale at

east, we steered N.W. by W., along the outside of the shoals, with a view

of falling in with the land a little to S.W. of the foreland. At two

o'clock p.m. two low islets were seen bearing W. by S., and as they were

connected by breakers, which seemed to join those on our starboard, this

discovery made it necessary to haul off S.W., in order to get clear of them

all. At three, more breakers appeared, extending from the low isles towards

the S.E. We now hauled out close to the wind, and, in an hour and a half,

were almost on board the breakers, and obliged to tack. From the mast-head

they were seen to extend as far as E.S.E., and the smoothness of the sea

made it probable that they extended to the north of east, and that we were

in a manner surrounded by them. At this time the hill on the Isle of Pines

bore N. 71 1/2 E., the foreland N. 1/4 W., and the most advanced point of

land on the S.W. coast bore N.W., distant fifteen or sixteen leagues. This

direction of the S.W. coast, which was rather within the parallel of the

N.E., assured us that this land extended no farther to the S.W. After

making a short trip to N.N.E., we stood again to the south, in expectation

of having a better view of the shoals before sun-set. We gained nothing by

this but the prospect of a sea strewed with shoals, which we could not

clear but by returning in the track by which we came. We tacked nearly in

the same place where we had tacked before, and on sounding found a bottom

of fine sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain of breakers to

leeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to spend the night in

making short boards over that space we had, in some measure, made ourselves

acquainted with in the day: And thus it was spent, but under the terrible

apprehension, every moment, of falling on some of the many dangers which

surrounded us.