At sun-rise on the 2d, we saw no more land than the coast we were upon; but

found that the currents had carried us some miles to the north, and we

attempted, to little purpose, to regain what we had lost. At noon we were

about a league from the coast, which extended from S.S.E. to N.E. Latitude

observed 18° 45' S. In the afternoon, finding the ship to drift not only to

the north, but in shore also, and being yet to the south of the bay we

passed the day before, I had thoughts of getting to an anchor before night,

while we had it in our power to make choice of a place. With this view,

having hoisted out two boats, one of them was sent ahead to tow the ship;

in the other Mr Gilbert went to sound for anchorage. Soon after, the towing

boat was sent to assist him. So much time was spent in sounding this bay,

that the ship drove past, which made it necessary to call the boats on

board to tow her off from the northern point. But this service was

performed by a breeze of wind, which, that moment, sprung up at S.W.; so

that as the boats got on board, we hoisted them in, and then bore up for

the north side of the island, intending once more to try to get round by

the east; Mr Gilbert informed me, that at the south part of the bay, he

found no soundings till close to a steep stone beach, where he landed to

taste a stream of water he saw there, which proved to be salt. Some people

were seen there, but they kept at a distance. Farther down the coast, that

is to the north, he found twenty, twenty-four, and thirty fathoms, three-

fourths of a mile, or a mile, from shore, the bottom a fine dark sand.

On the 3d, at sun-rise, we found ourselves abreast a lofty promontory on

the S.E. side of the island, and about three leagues from it. Having but

little wind, and that from the south, right in our teeth, and being in want

of fire-wood, I sent Lieutenant Clerke with two boats to a small islet

which lies off the promontory, to endeavour to get some. In the mean time

we continued to ply up with the ship; but what we gained by our sails, we

lost by the current. At length towards noon, we got a breeze at E.S.E., and

E., with which we could lie up for the head; and soon after Mr Clerke

returned, having not been able to land, on account of a high surf on the

shore. They met with no people on the isle; but saw a large bat, and some

birds, and caught a water-snake. At six o'clock p.m. we got in with the

land, under the N.W. side of the head, where we anchored in seventeen

fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand, half a mile from shore; the

point of the head bearing N. 18° E., distant half a league; the little

islet before-mentioned N.E. by E. 1/2 E., and the N.W. point of the bay N.

32° W. Many people appeared on the shore, and some attempted to swim off to

us; but having occasion to send the boat ahead to sound, they retired as

she drew near them. This, however, gave us a favourable idea of them.

On the 4th, at day-break, I went with two boats to examine the coast, to

look for a proper landing-place, wood, and water. At this time, the natives

began to assemble on the shore, and by signs invited us to land. I went

first to a small beach, which is towards the head, where I found no good

landing, on account of some rocks which every where lined the coast. I,

however, put the boat's bow to the shore, and gave cloth, medals, &c. to

some people who were there. For this treatment they offered to haul the

boats over the breakers to the sandy beach, which I thought a friendly

offer, but had reason afterwards to alter my opinion. When they found I

would not do as they desired, they made signs for us to go down into the

bay, which we accordingly did, and they ran along shore abreast of us,

their number increasing prodigiously. I put in to the shore in two or three

places, but, not liking the situation, did not land. By this time, I

believe, the natives conceived what I wanted, as they directed me round a

rocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, I stepped out of the boat

without wetting a foot, in the face of a vast multitude, with only a green

branch in my hand, which I had before got from one of them. I took but one

man out of the boat with me, and ordered the other boat to lie-to at a

little distance off. They received me with great courtesy and politeness;

and would retire back from the boat on my making the least motion with my

hand. A man, whom I took to be a chief, seeing this, made them form a

semicircle round the boat's bow, and beat such as attempted to break

through this order. This man I loaded with presents, giving likewise to

others, and asked by signs for fresh water, in hopes of seeing where they

got it. The chief immediately sent a man for some, who ran to a house, and

presently returned with a little in a bamboo; so that I gained but little

information by this. I next asked, by the same means, for something to eat,

and they as readily brought me a yam, and some cocoa-nuts. In short, I was

charmed with their behaviour; and the only thing which could give the least

suspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, and

bows and arrows. For this reason I kept my eye continually upon the chief,

and watched his looks as well as his actions. He made many signs to me to

haul the boat up upon the shore, and at last slipped into the crowd, where

I observed him speak to several people, and then return to me, repeating

signs to haul the boat up, and hesitating a good deal before he would

receive some spike-nails, which I then offered him. This made me suspect

something was intended, and immediately I stepped into the boat, telling

them by signs that I should soon return. But they were not for parting so

soon, and now attempted by force, what they could not obtain by gentler

means. The gang-board happened unluckily to be laid out for me to come into

the boat, I say unluckily, for if it had not been out, and if the crew had

been a little quicker in getting the boat off, the natives might not have

had time to put their design in execution, nor would the following

disagreeable scene have happened. As we were putting off the boat, they

laid hold of the gang-board, and unhooked it off the boat's stern. But as

they did not take it away, I thought this had been done by accident, and

ordered the boat in again to take it up. Then they themselves hooked it

over the boat's stern, and attempted to haul her ashore; others, at the

same time, snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On my pointing a

musket at them, they in some measure desisted, but returned in an instant,

seemingly determined to haul the boat ashore. At the head of this party was

the chief; the others, who could not come at the boat, stood behind with

darts, stones, and bows and arrows in hand, ready to support them. Signs

and threats having no effect, our own safety became the only consideration;

and yet I was unwilling to fire on the multitude, and resolved to make the

chief alone fall a victim to his own treachery; but my musket at this

critical moment missed fire. Whatever idea they might have formed of the

arms we held in our hands, they must now have looked upon them as childish

weapons, and began to let us see how much better theirs were, by throwing

stones and darts, and by shooting arrows. This made it absolutely necessary

for me to give orders to fire. The first discharge threw them into

confusion; but a second was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach;

and after all, they continued to throw stones from behind the trees and

bushes, and, every now and then, to pop out and throw a dart. Four lay, to

all appearance, dead on the shore; but two of them afterwards crawled into

the bushes. Happy it was for these people, that not half our muskets would

go off, otherwise many more must have fallen. We had one man wounded in the

cheek with a dart, the point of which was as thick as my finger, and yet it

entered above two inches, which shews that it must have come with great

force, though indeed we were very near them. An arrow struck Mr Gilbert's

naked breast, who was about thirty yards off; but probably it had struck

something before; for it hardly penetrated the skin. The arrows were

pointed with hard wood.

As soon as we got on board, I ordered the anchor to be weighed, with a view

of anchoring near the landing-place. While this was doing, several people

appeared on the low rock point, displaying two oars we had lost in the

scuffle. I looked on this as a sign of submission, and of their wanting to

give us the oars. I was, nevertheless, prevailed on to fire a four-pound

shot at them, to let them see the effect of our great guns. The ball fell

short, but frightened them so much, that none were seen afterwards; and

they left the oars standing up against the bushes.

It was now calm; but the anchor was hardly at the bow before a breeze

sprung up at north, of which we took the advantage, set our sails, and

plyed out of the bay, as it did not seem capable of supplying our wants

with that conveniency I wished to have. Besides, I always had it in my

power to return to this place, in case I should find none more convenient

farther south.

These islanders seemed to be a different race from those of Mallicollo; and

spoke a different language. They are of the middle size, have a good shape,

and tolerable features. Their colour is very dark, and they paint their

faces, some with black, and others with red pigment. Their hair is very

curly and crisp, and somewhat woolly. I saw a few women, and I thought them

ugly; they wore a kind of petticoat made of palm-leaves, or some plant like

it. But the men, like those of Mallicollo, were in a manner naked; having

only the belt about the waist, and the piece of cloth, or leaf, used as a

wrapper. I saw no canoes with these people, nor were any seen in any part

of this island. They live in houses covered with thatch, and their

plantations are laid out by a line, and fenced round.

At two o'clock in the afternoon, we were clear of the bay, bore up round

the head, and steered S.S.E. for the south end of the island, having a fine

breeze at N.W. On the S.W. side of the head is a pretty deep bay, which

seemed to run in behind the one on the N.W. side. Its shores are low, and

the adjacent lands appeared very fertile. It is exposed to the S.E. winds;

for which reason, until it be better known, the N.W. bay is preferable,

because it is sheltered from the reigning winds; and the winds to which it

is open, viz. from N.W. by N. to E. by N., seldom blow strong. The

promontory, or peninsula, which disjoins these two bays, I named Traitor's

Head, from the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants. It is the N.E.

point of the island, situated in the latitude 18° 43' S. longitude 169°

'28' E., and terminates in a saddle-hill which is of height sufficient to

be seen sixteen or eighteen leagues. As we advanced to S.S.E., the new

island, we had before discovered, began to appear over the S.E. point of

the one near us, bearing S. 1/2 E., distant ten or twelve leagues. After

leaving this one, we steered for the east end of the other, being directed

by a great light we saw upon it.

At one o'clock the next morning, drawing near the shore, we tacked and

spent the remainder of the night making short boards. At sun-rise we

discovered a high table land (an island) bearing E. by S., and a small low

isle in the direction of N.N.E., which we had passed in the night without

seeing it. Traitor's Head was still in sight, bearing N. 20° W. distant

fifteen leagues, and the island to the south extended from S. 7° W. to S.

87° W. distant three or four miles. We then found that the light we had

seen in the night was occasioned by a volcano, which we observed to throw

up vast quantities of fire and smoke, with a rumbling noise heard at a

great distance. We now made sail for the island; and, presently after,

discovered a small inlet which had the appearance of being a good harbour.

In order to be better informed, I sent away two armed boats, under the

command of Lieutenant Cooper, to sound it; and, in the meanwhile, we stood

on and off with the ship, to be ready to follow, or give them any

assistance they might want. On the east point of the entrance, we observed

a number of people, and several houses and canoes; and when our boats

entered the harbour, they launched some, and followed them, but came not

near. It was not long before Mr Cooper made the signal for anchorage; and

we stood in with the ship. The wind being at west, and our course S.S.W.,

we borrowed close to the west point, and passed over some sunken rocks,

which might have been avoided, by keeping a little more to the east, or

about one-third channel over. The wind left us as soon as we were within

the entrance, and obliged us to drop an anchor in four fathoms water. After

this, the boats were sent again to sound; and, in the meantime, the launch

was hoisted out, in order to carry out anchors to warp in by, as soon as we

should be acquainted with the channel.

While we were thus employed, many of the natives got together in parties,

on several parts of the shore, all armed with bows, spears, &c. Some swam

off to us, others came in canoes. At first they were shy, and kept at the

distance of a stone's throw; they grew insensibly bolder; and, at last,

came under our stern, and made some exchanges. The people in one of the

first canoes, after coming as near as they durst, threw towards us some

cocoa-nuts. I went into a boat and picked them up, giving them in return

some cloth and other articles. This induced others to come under the stern,

and alongside, where their behaviour was insolent and daring. They wanted

to carry off every thing within their reach; they got hold of the fly of

the ensign, and would have torn it from the staff; others attempted to

knock the rings off the rudder; but the greatest trouble they gave us was

to look after the buoys of our anchors, which were no sooner thrown out of

our boats, or let go from the ship, than they got hold of them. A few

muskets fired in the air had no effect; but a four-pounder frightened them

so much, that they quitted their canoes that instant, and took to the

water. But as soon as they found themselves unhurt, they got again into

their canoes, gave us some halloos, flourished their weapons, and returned

once more to the buoys. This put us to the expence of a few musquetoon

shot, which had the desired effect. Although none were hurt, they were

afterwards afraid to come near the buoys; very soon all retired on shore,

and we were permitted to sit down to dinner undisturbed.

During these transactions, a friendly old man in a small canoe made several

trips between us and the shore, bringing off each time a few cocoa-nuts, or

a yam, and taking in exchange whatever we gave him. Another was on the

gangway when the great gun was fired, but I could not prevail on him to

stay there long. Towards the evening, after the ship was moored, I landed

at the head of the harbour, in the S.E. corner, with a strong party of men,

without any opposition being made by a great number of the natives who were

assembled in two parties, the one on our right and the other on the left,

armed with clubs, darts, spears, slings, and stones, bows, and arrows, &c.

After distributing to the old people (for we could distinguish no chief),

and some others, presents of cloth, medals, &c. I ordered two casks to be

filled with water out of a pond about twenty paces behind the landing-

place; giving the natives to understand, that this was one of the articles

we wanted. Besides water, we got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed

to be in plenty on the trees; but they could not be prevailed upon to part

with any of their weapons. These they held in constant readiness, and in

the proper attitudes of offence and defence; so that little was wanting to

make them attack us; at least we thought so, by their pressing so much upon

us, and in spite of our endeavours to keep them off. Our early re-embarking

probably disconcerted their scheme; and after that, they all retired. The

friendly old man before mentioned, was in one of these parties; and we

judged, from his conduct, that his temper was pacific.

[1] Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol. I. p. 140, 141.

[2] "Our ship now probably resembled an hospital; the poisoned

patients were still in a deplorable situation; they continued to have

gripes and acute pains in all their bones: In the day time they were

in a manner giddy, and felt a great heaviness in their heads; at

night, as soon as they were warm in bed, their pains redoubled, and

robbed them actually of sleep. The secretion of _saliva_ was

excessive; the skin peeled off from the whole body, and pimples

appeared on their hands. Those who were less affected with pains, were

much weaker in proportion, and crawled about the decks, emaciated to

mere shadows We had not one lieutenant able to do duty; and as one of

the mates and several of the midshipmen were likewise ill, the watches

were commanded by the gunner and the other mates. The dogs which had

unfortunately fed upon the same fish, were in a still worse condition,

as we could not give them any relief. They groaned and panted most

piteously, drank great quantities of water, and appeared to be

tortured with pain. Those which had eaten of the entrails were vastly

more affected than the rest.--G.F."

According to this gentleman, the crew never felt more severely the

tediousness of confinement to the ship, or were more tired of salt

provisions. Two sharks caught on the 31st afforded them a very

acceptable entertainment, and were greedily devoured. One of these, he

tells us, had in his maw four young turtles, of eighteen inches in

diameter, two large cuttle-fishes, and the feathers and skeleton of a

booby; yet notwithstanding so plentiful a repast, he seemed to be well

disposed for a piece of salt pork with which the hook was baited.--E.

SECTION V.

_An Intercourse established with the Natives; some Account of the Island,

and a Variety of Incidents that happened during our Stay at it._

As we wanted to take in a large quantity both of wood and water, and as,

when I was on shore, I had found it practicable to lay the ship much nearer

the landing-place than she now was, which would greatly facilitate that

work, as well as overawe the natives, and enable us better to cover and

protect the working party on shore; with this view, on the 6th, we went to

work to transport the ship to the place I designed to moor her in. While we

were about this, we observed the natives assembling from all parts, and

forming themselves into two parties, as they did the preceding evening, one

on each side the landing-place, to the amount of some thousands, armed as

before. A canoe, sometimes conducted by one, and at other times by two or

three men, now and then came off, bringing a few cocoa-nuts or plantains.

These they gave us without asking for any return; but I took care they

should always have something. Their chief design seemed to invite us on

shore. One of those who came off was the old man, who had already

ingratiated himself into our favour. I made him understand, by signs, that

they were to lay aside their weapons, took those which were in the canoe,

and threw them overboard, and made him a present of a large piece of cloth.

There was no doubt but he understood me, and made my request known to his

countrymen. For as soon as he landed, we observed him to go first to the

one party, and then to the other; nor was he, ever after, seen by us with

any thing like a weapon in his hand. After this, three fellows came in a

canoe under the stern, one of them brandishing a club, with which he struck

the ship's side, and committed other acts of defiance, but at last offered

to exchange it for a string of beads, and some other trifles. These were

sent down to him by a line; but the moment they were in his possession, he

and his companions paddled off in all haste, without giving the club or any

thing else in return. This was what I expected, and indeed what I was not

sorry for, as I wanted an opportunity to shew the multitude on shore, the

effect of our fire arms, without materially hurting any of them. Having a

fowling-piece loaded with small shot (No. 3) I gave the fellow the

contents; and, when they were above musquet-shot off, I ordered some of the

musquetoons, or wall-pieces, to be fired, which made them leap out of the

canoe, keep under her offside, and swim with her ashore. This transaction

seemed to make little or no impression on the people there. On the

contrary, they began to halloo, and to make sport of it.[1]

After mooring the ship, by four anchors, with her broadside to the landing-

place, hardly musquet-shot off, and placing our artillery in such a manner

as to command the whole harbour, I embarked with the marines, and a party

of seamen, in three boats, and rowed in for the shore. It hath been already

mentioned, that the two divisions of the natives were drawn up on each side

the landing-place. They had left a space between them of about thirty or

forty yards, in which were laid, to the most advantage, a few small bunches

of plantains, a yam, and two or three roots. Between these and the water

were stuck upright in the sand, for what purpose I never could learn, four

small reeds, about two feet from each other, in a line at right angles to

the shore, where they remained for two or three days after. The old man

before-mentioned, and two more, stood by these things, inviting us, by

signs, to land; but I had not forgot the trap I was so near being caught in

at the last island; and this looked something like it. We answered, by

making signs for the two divisions to retire farther back, and give us more

room. The old man seemed to desire them so to do, but no more regard was

paid to him than to us. More were continually joining them, and, except two

or three old men, not one unarmed. In short, every thing conspired to make

us believe they meant to attack us as soon as we should be on shore; the

consequence of which was easily supposed; many of them must have been

killed and wounded, and we should hardly have escaped unhurt; two things I

equally wished to prevent. Since, therefore, they would not give us the

room required, I thought it was better to frighten them into it, than to

oblige them by the deadly effect of our fire-arms. I accordingly ordered a

musquet to be fired over the party on our right, which was by far the

strongest body; but the alarm it gave them was momentary. In an instant

they recovered themselves and began to display their weapons. One fellow

shewed us his backside, in a manner which plainly conveyed his meaning.

After this I ordered three or four more musquets to be fired. This was the

signal for the ship to fire a few great guns, which presently dispersed

them; and then we landed, and marked out the limits, on the right and left,

by a line. Our old friend stood his ground, though deserted by his two

companions, and I rewarded his confidence with a present. The natives came

gradually to us, seemingly in a more friendly manner; some even without

their weapons, but by far the greatest part brought them; and when we made

signs to lay them down, they gave us to understand that we must lay down

ours first. Thus all parties stood armed. The presents I made to the old

people, and to such as seemed to be of consequence, had little effect on

their conduct. They indeed climbed the cocoa-nut trees, and threw us down

the nuts, without requiring any thing for them; but I took care that they

should always have somewhat in return. I observed that many were afraid to

touch what belonged to us; and they seemed to have no notion of exchanging

one thing for another. I took the old man (whose name we now found to be

Paowang) to the woods, and made him understand, I wanted to cut down some

trees to take on board the ship; cutting some down at the same time, which

we put into one of our boats, together with a few small casks of water,

with a view of letting the people see what it was we chiefly wanted.

Paowang very readily gave his consent to cut wood; nor was there any one

who made the least objection. He only desired the cocoa-nut trees might not

be cut down. Matters being thus settled, we embarked and returned on board

to dinner, and, immediately after, they all dispersed. I never learnt that

any one was hurt by our shot, either on this or the preceding day; which

was a very happy circumstance. In the afternoon having landed again, we

loaded the launch with water, and having made three hauls with the seine,

caught upwards of three hundred pounds of mullet and other fish. It was

some time before any of the natives appeared, and not above twenty or

thirty at last, amongst whom was our trusty friend Paowang, who made us a

present of a small pig, which was the only one we got at this isle, or that

was offered to us.

During the night the volcano, which was about four miles to the west of us,

vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke, as it had also done the night

before; and the flames were seen to rise above the hill which lay between

us and it. At every eruption it made a long rumbling noise like that of

thunder, or the blowing up of large mines. A heavy shower of rain, which

fell at this time, seemed to increase it; and the wind blowing from the

same quarter, the air was loaded with its ashes, which fell so thick that

every thing was covered with the dust. It was a kind of fine sand, or

stone, ground or burnt to powder, and was exceedingly troublesome to the

eyes.

Early in the morning of the 7th, the natives began again to assemble near

the watering-place, armed as usual, but not in such numbers as at first.

After breakfast, we landed, in order to cut wood and fill water. I found

many of the islanders much inclined to be friends with us, especially the

old people; on the other hand, most of the younger were daring and

insolent, and obliged us to keep to our arms. I staid till I saw no

disturbance was like to happen, and then returned to the ship, leaving the

party under the command of Lieutenants Clerke and Edgcumbe. When they came

on board to dinner, they informed me that the people continued to behave in

the same inconsistent manner as in the morning; but more especially one

man, whom Mr Edgcumbe was obliged to fire at, and believed he had struck

with a swan shot. After that the others behaved with more discretion; and

as soon as our people embarked they all retired. While we were sitting at

dinner an old man came on board, looked into many parts of the ship, and

then went ashore again.

In the afternoon, only a few of those who lived in the neighbourhood, with

whom we were now upon a tolerable footing, made their appearance at the

watering-place. Paowang brought us an axe which had been left by our

people, either in the woods or on the beach, and found by some of the

natives. A few other articles were afterwards returned to us, which either

they had stolen, or we had lost by our negligence, so careful were they now

not to offend us in this respect.

Early the next morning, I sent the launch, protected by a party of marines

in another boat, to take in ballast, which was wanted. This work was done

before breakfast; and after it, she was sent for wood and water, and with

her the people employed in this service, under the protection of a

serjeant's guard, which was now thought sufficient, as the natives seemed

to be pretty well reconciled to us. I was told, that they asked our people

to go home with them, on condition they stripped naked as they were. This

shews that they had no design to rob them, whatever other they might

have.[2]

On the 9th, I sent the launch for more ballast, and the guard and wooders

to the usual place. With these I went myself, and found a good many of the

natives collected together, whose behaviour, though armed, was courteous

and obliging; so that there was no longer any occasion to mark out the

limits by a line; they observed them without this precaution. As it was

necessary for Mr Wales's instruments to remain on shore all the middle of

the day, the guard did not return to dinner, as they had done before, till

relieved by others. When I came off, I prevailed on a young man, whose name

was Wha-a-gou, to accompany me. Before dinner I shewed him every part of

the ship; but did not observe that any thing fixed his attention a moment,

or caused in him the least surprise. He had no knowledge of goats, dogs, or

cats, calling them all hogs (_Booga_ or _Boogas_). I made him a

present of a dog and a bitch, as he shewed a liking to that kind of animal.

Soon after he came on board, some of his friends followed in a canoe, and

enquired for him, probably doubtful of his safety. He looked out of the

quarter gallery, and having spoken to them, they went ashore, and quickly

returned with a cock, a little sugar-cane, and a few cocoa-nuts, as a

present to me. Though he sat down with us, he did but just taste our salt

pork, but eat pretty heartily of yam, and drank a glass of wine. After

dinner I made him presents, and then conducted him, ashore.[3]

As soon as we landed, the youth and some of his friends took me by the

hand, with a view, as I understood, to conduct me to their habitations. We

had not gone far, before some of them, for what reason I know not, were

unwilling I should proceed; in consequence of which the whole company

stopped; and, if I was not mistaken, a person was dispatched for something

or other to give me; for I was desired to sit down and wait, which I

accordingly did. During this interval, several of our gentlemen passed us,

at which they shewed great uneasiness, and importuned me so much to order

them back, that I was at last obliged to comply. They were jealous of our

going up the country, or even along the shore of the harbour. While I was

waiting here, our friend Paowang came with a present of fruit and roots,

carried by about twenty men; in order, as I supposed, to make it appear the

greater. One had a small bunch of plantains, another a yam, a third a

cocoa-nut, &c.; but two men might have carried the whole with ease. This

present was in return for something I had given him in the morning;

however, I thought the least I could do now, was to pay the porters.

After I had dispatched Paowang, I returned to Wha-a-gou and his friends,

who were still for detaining me. They seemed to wait with great impatience

for something, and to be unwilling and ashamed to take away the two dogs,

without making me a return. As night was approaching, I pressed to be gone;

with which they complied, and so we parted.

The preceding day, Mr Forster learnt from the people the proper name of the

island, which they call Tanna; and this day I learnt from them the names of

those in the neighbourhood. The one we touched at last is called Erromango;

the small isle, which we discovered the morning we landed here, Immer; the

Table island to the east, discovered at the same time, Erronan or Footoona;

and an island which lies to the S.E. Annattom. All these islands are to be

seen from Tanna.

They gave us to understand, in a manner which I thought admitted of no

doubt, that they eat human flesh, and that circumcision was practised among

them. They began the subject of eating human flesh, of their own accord, by

asking us if we did; otherwise I should never have thought of asking them

such a question. I have heard people argue, that no nation could be

cannibals, if they had other flesh to eat, or did not want food; thus

deriving the custom from necessity. The people of this island can be under

no such necessity; they have fine pork and fowls, and plenty of roots and

fruits. But since we have not actually seen them eat human flesh, it will

admit of doubt with some, whether they are cannibals.[4]

When I got on board, I learnt that, when the launch was on the west side of

the harbour taking in ballast, one of the men employed in this work, had

scalded his fingers in taking a stone up out of some water. This

circumstance produced the discovery of several hot springs, at the foot of

the cliff, and rather below high-water mark.

This day Mr Wales, and two or three of the officers advanced a little, for

the first time, into the island. They met with a small straggling village,

the inhabitants of which treated them with great civility; and the next

morning Mr Forster and his party made another excursion inland. They met

with several fine plantations of plantains, sugar-canes, yams, &C.; and the

natives were courteous and civil. Indeed, by this time, the people,

especially those in our neighbourhood, were so well reconciled to us, that

they shewed not the least dislike at our rambling about in the skirts of

the woods, shooting, &c. In the afternoon some boys having got behind

thickets, and having thrown two or three stones at our people who were

cutting wood, they were fired at by the petty officers present on duty.

Being ashore at that time, I was alarmed at hearing the report of the

musquets, and seeing two or three boys run out of the wood. When I knew the

cause I was much displeased at so wanton an use being made of our fire-

arms, and took measures to prevent it for the future. Wind southerly, with

heavy showers of rain.[5]

During the night, and also all the 11th, the volcano was exceedingly

troublesome, and made a terrible noise, throwing up prodigious columns of

fire and smoke at each explosion, which happened every three or four

minutes; and, at one time, great stones were seen high in the air. Besides

the necessary work of wooding and watering, we struck the main-top-mast to

fix new trestle-trees and back-stays. Mr Forster and his party went up the

hill on the west side of the harbour, where he found three places from

whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, through cracks and fissures in

the earth. The ground about these was exceedingly hot, and parched or

burnt, and they seemed to keep pace with the volcano; for, at every

explosion of the latter, the quantity of smoke or steam in these was

greatly increased, and forced out so as to rise in small columns, which we

saw from the ship, and had taken for common fires made by the natives. At

the foot of this hill are the hot-springs before mentioned.

In the afternoon, Mr Forster having begun his botanical researches on the

other side of the harbour, fell in with our friend Paowang's house, where

he saw most of the articles I had given him, hanging on the adjoining trees

and bushes, as if they were not worthy of being under his roof.

On the 12th, some of the officers accompanied Mr Forster to the hot places

he had been at the preceding day. A thermometer placed in a little hole

made in one of them, rose from 80, at which it stood in the open air, to

170. Several other parts of the hill emitted smoke or steam all the day,

and the volcano was unusually furious, insomuch that the air was loaded

with its ashes. The rain which fell at this time was a compound of water,

sand, and earth; so that it properly might be called showers of mire.

Whichever way the wind was, we were plagued with the ashes; unless it blew

very strong indeed from the opposite direction. Notwithstanding the natives

seemed well enough satisfied with the few expeditions we had made in the

neighbourhood, they were unwilling we should extend them farther. As a

proof of this, some undertook to guide the gentlemen when they were in the

country, to a place where they might see the mouth of the volcano. They

very readily embraced the offer; and were conducted down to the harbour,

before they perceived the cheat.[6]

The 13th, wind at N.E., gloomy weather. The only thing worthy of note this

day was, that Paowang being at dinner with us on board, I took the

opportunity to shew him several parts of the ship, and various articles, in

hopes of finding out something which they might value, and be induced to

take from us in exchange for refreshments; for what we got of this kind was

trifling. But he looked on every thing that was shewn him with the utmost

indifference; nor did he take notice of any one thing, except a wooden

sand-box, which he seemed to admire, and turned it two or three times over

in his hand.

Next morning after breakfast, a party of us set out for the country, to try

if we could not get a nearer and better view of the volcano. We went by the

way of one of those hot smoking places before mentioned, and dug a hole in

the hottest part, into which a thermometer of Fahrenheit's construction was

put; and the mercury presently rose to 100°. It remained in the hole two

minutes and a half without either rising or falling. The earth about this

place was a kind of white clay, had a sulphureous smell, and was soft and

wet, the surface only excepted, over which was spread a thin dry crust,

that had upon it some sulphur, and a vitriolic substance, tasting like

alum. The place affected by the heat was not above eight or ten yards

square; and near it were some fig-trees, which spread their branches over

part of it, and seemed to like their situation. We thought that this

extraordinary heat was caused by the steam of boiling water, strongly

impregnated with sulphur. I was told that some of the other places were

larger than this; though we did not go out of the road to look at them, but

proceeded up the hill through a country so covered with trees, shrubs, and

plants, that the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, which, seem to have been

planted here by nature, were, in a manner, choaked up. Here and there we

met with a house, some few people, and plantations. These latter we found

in different states, some of long standing, others lately cleared, and some

only clearing, and before any thing had been planted. The clearing of a

piece of ground for plantation, seemed to be a work of much labour,

considering the tools they had to work with, which, though much inferior to

those at the Society Isles, are of the same kind. Their method is, however,

judicious, and as expeditious as it can well be. They lop off the small

branches of the large trees, dig under the roots, and there burn the

branches and small shrubs and plants which they root up. The soil, in some

parts, is a rich black mould; in other parts, it seemed to be composed of

decayed vegetables, and of the ashes the volcano sends forth throughout all

its neighbourhood. Happening to turn out of the common path, we came into a

plantation where we found a man at work, who, either out of good-nature, or

to get us the sooner out of his territories, undertook to be our guide. We

followed him, accordingly, but had not gone far before we came to the

junction of two roads, in one of which stood another man with a sling and a

stone, which he thought proper to lay down when a musquet was pointed at

him. The attitude in which we found him, the ferocity appearing in his

looks, and his behaviour after, convinced us that he meant to defend the

path he stood in. He, in some measure, gained his point, for our guide took

the other road, and we followed, but not without suspecting he was leading

us out of the common way. The other man went with us likewise, counting us

several times over, and hallooing, as we judged, for assistance; for we

were presently joined by two or three more, among whom was a young woman

with a club in her hand. By these people we were conducted to the brow of a

hill, and shewn a road leading down to the harbour, which they wanted us to

take. Not choosing to comply, we returned to that we had left, which we

pursued alone, our guide refusing to go with us. After ascending another

ridge, as thickly covered with wood as those we had come over, we saw yet

other hills between us and the volcano, which seemed as far off as at our

first setting out. This discouraged us from proceeding farther, especially

as we could get no one to be our guide. We therefore came to a resolution

to return; and had but just put this in execution when we met between

twenty and thirty people, whom the fellow before mentioned had collected

together, with a design, as we judged, to oppose our advancing into the

country; but as they saw us returning they suffered us to pass unmolested.

Some of them put us into the right road, accompanied us down the hill, made

us stop by the way, to entertain us with cocoa-nuts, plantains, and sugar-

cane; and what we did not eat on the spot, they brought down the hill with

us. Thus we found these people hospitable, civil, and good-natured, when

not prompted to a contrary conduct by jealousy; a conduct I cannot tell how

to blame them for, especially when I considered the light in which they

must view us. It was impossible for them to know our real design; we enter

their ports without their daring to oppose; we endeavour to land in their

country as friends, and it is well if this succeeds; we land, nevertheless,

and maintain the footing we have got, by the superiority of our fire-arms.

Under such circumstances, what opinion are they to form of us? Is it not as

reasonable for them to think that we are come to invade their country, as

to pay them a friendly visit? Time, and some acquaintance with us, can only

convince them of the latter. These people are yet in a rude state; and, if

we may judge from circumstances and appearances, are frequently at war, not

only with their neighbours, but among themselves; consequently must be

jealous of every new face. I will allow there are some exceptions to this

rule to be found in this sea; but there are few nations who would willingly

suffer visitors like us to advance far into their country.

Before this excursion, some of us had been of opinion that these people

were addicted to an unnatural passion, because they had endeavoured to

entice some of our men into the woods; and, in particular, I was told, that

one who had the care of Mr Forster's plant bag, had been once or twice

attempted. As the carrying of bundles, &c. is the office of the women in

this country, it had occurred to me, and I was not singular in this, that

the natives might mistake him and some others for women. My conjecture was

fully verified this day. For this man, who was one of the party, and

carried the bag as usual, following me down the hill, by the words which I

understood of the conversation of the natives, and by their actions, I was

well assured that they considered him as a female; till, by some means,

they discovered their mistake, on which they cried out, "Erramange!

Erramange!" "It is a man! It is a man!" The thing was so palpable, that

every one was obliged to acknowledge, that they had before mistaken his

sex: and that, after they were undeceived, they seemed not to have the

least notion of what we had suspected. This circumstance will shew how

liable we are to form wrong conjectures of things, among people whose

language we are ignorant of. Had it not been for this discovery, I make no

doubt that these people would have been charged with this vile custom.

In the evening I took a walk with some of the gentlemen into the country on

the other side of the harbour, where we had very different treatment from

what we had met with in the morning. The people we now visited, among whom

was our friend Paowang, being better acquainted with us, shewed a readiness

to oblige us in every thing in their power. We came to the village which

had been visited on the 9th. It consisted of about twenty houses, the most

of which need no other description than comparing them to the roof of a

thatched house in England, taken off the walls and placed on the ground.

Some were open at both ends, others partly closed with reeds, and all were

covered with palm thatch. A few of them were thirty or forty feet long, and

fourteen or sixteen broad. Besides these, they have other mean hovels,

which, I conceived, were only to sleep in. Some of these stood in a

plantation, and I was given to understand, that in one of them lay a dead

corpse. They made signs that described sleep, or death; and circumstances

pointed out the latter. Curious to see all I could, I prevailed on an

elderly man to go with me to the hut, which was separated from the others

by a reed fence, built quite round it at the distance of four or five feet.

The entrance was by a space in the fence, made so low as to admit one to

step over. The two sides and one end of the hut were closed or built up in

the same manner, and with the same materials, as the roof. The other end

had been open, but was now well closed with mats, which I could not prevail

on the man to remove, or suffer me to do it. There hung at this end of the

hut a matted bag or basket, in which was a piece of roasted yam, and some

sort of leaves, all quite fresh. I had a strong desire to see the inside of

the hut but the man was peremptory in refusing this, and even shewed an

unwillingness to permit me to look into the basket. He wore round his neck,

fastened to a string, two or three locks of human hair; and a woman present

had several about her neck. I offered something in exchange for them, but

they gave me to understand they could not part with them, as it was the

hair of the person who lay in the hut. Thus I was led to believe that these

people dispose of their dead in a manner similar to that of Otaheite. The

same custom of wearing the hair is observed by the people of that island,

and also by the New Zealanders. The former make tamau of the hair of their

deceased friends, and the latter make ear-rings and necklaces of their

teeth.

Near most of their large houses were fixed, upright in the ground, the

stems of four cocoa-nut trees, in a square position, about three feet from

each other. Some of our gentlemen who first saw them, were inclined to

believe they were thus placed on a religious account; but I was now

satisfied that it was for no other purpose but to hang cocoa-nuts on to

dry. For when I asked, as well as I could, the use of them, a man took me

to one, loaded with cocoa-nuts from the bottom to the top; and no words

could have informed me better. Their situation is well chosen for this use,

as most of their large houses are built in an open airy place, or where the

wind has a free passage, from whatever direction it blows. Near most, if

not all of them, is a large tree or two, whose spreading branches afford an

agreeable retreat from the scorching sun. This part of the island was well

cultivated, open and airy; the plantations were laid out by line, abounding

wilh plantains, sugar-canes, yams and other roots, and stocked with fruit-

trees. In our walk we met with our old friend Paowang, who, with some

others, accompanied us to the water side, and brought with them, as a

present, a few yams and cocoa-nuts.

On the 15th, having finished wooding and watering, a few hands only were on

shore making brooms, the rest being employed on board setting up the

rigging, and putting the ship in a condition for sea. Mr Forster, in his

botanical excursion this day, shot a pigeon, in the craw of which was a

wild nutmeg. He took some pains to find the tree, but his endeavours were

without success. In the evening a party of us walked to the eastern sea-

shore, in order to take the bearing of Annattom, and Erronan or Footoona.

The horizon proved so hazy that I could see neither; but one of the natives

gave me, as I afterwards found, the true direction of them. We observed

that in all, or most of their sugar plantations, were dug holes or pits,

four feet deep, and five or six in diameter; and on our enquiring their

use, we were given to understand that they caught rats in them. These

animals, which are very destructive to the canes, are here in great plenty.

The canes, I observed, were planted as thick as possible round the edge of

these pits, so that the rats in coming at them are the more liable to

tumble in.

Next morning we found the tiller sprung in the rudder head, and, by some

strange neglect, we had not a spare one on board, which we were ignorant of

till now it was wanting. I knew but of one tree in the neighbourhood fit

for this purpose, which I sent the carpenter on shore to look at, and an

officer, with a party of men, to cut it down, provided he could obtain

leave of the natives; if not, he was ordered to acquaint me. He understood

that no one had any objection, and set the people to work accordingly. But

as the tree was large, this required some time; and, before it was down,

word was brought me that our friend Paowang was not pleased. Upon this I

gave orders to desist, as we found that, by scarfing a piece to the inner

end of the tiller, and letting it farther into the rudder-head, it would

still perform its office. But as it was necessary to have a spare one on

board, I went on shore, sent for Paowang, made him a present of a dog and a

piece of cloth, and then explained to him that our great steering paddle

was broken, and that I wanted that tree to make a new one. It was easy to

see how well pleased every one present was, with the means I took to obtain

it. With one voice they gave their consent, Paowang joining his also, which

he perhaps could not have done without the others; for I do not know that

he had either more property, or more authority, than the rest. This point

being obtained, I took our friend on board to dinner, and after it was

over, went with him ashore, to pay a visit to an old chief, who was said to

be king of the island; which was a doubt with me. Paowang took little or no

notice of him. I made him a present, after which he immediately went away,

as if he got all he came for. His name was Geogy, and they gave him the

title of Areeke. He was very old, but had a merry open countenance. He wore

round his waist a broad red-and-white chequered belt, the materials and

manufacture of which seemed the same as that of Otaheite cloth; but this

was hardly a mark of distinction. He had with him a son, not less than

forty-five or fifty years of age. A great number of people were at this

time at the landing-place, most of them from distant parts. The behaviour

of many was friendly; while others were daring and insolent, which I

thought proper to put up with, as our stay was nearly at an end.

On the 17th, about ten o'clock, I went ashore, and found in the crowd old

Geogy and his son, who soon made me understand that they wanted to dine

with me; and accordingly I brought them and two more on board. They all

called them Areekees (or kings); but I doubt if any of them had the least

pretensions to that title over the whole island. It had been remarked, that

one of these kings had not authority enough to order one of the people up

into a cocoa-nut tree, to bring him down some nuts. Although he spoke to

several, he was at last obliged to go himself, and, by way of revenge, as

it was thought, left not a nut on the tree, taking what he wanted himself,

and giving the rest to some of our people.

When I got them on board, I went with them all over the ship, which they

viewed with uncommon surprise and attention. We happened to have for their

entertainment a kind of pie or pudding made of plantains, and some sort of

greens which we had got from one of the natives. On this and on yams they

made a hearty dinner; for, as to the salt beef and pork, they would hardly

taste them. In the afternoon, having made each of them a present of a

hatchet, a spike-nail, and some medals, I conducted them ashore.

Mr Forster and I then went over to the other side of the harbour, and,

having tried, with Fahrenheit's thermometer, the head of one of the hot

springs, we found that the mercury rose to 191°. At this time the tide was

up within two or three feet of the spring, so that we judged, it might, in

some degree, be cooled by it. We were mistaken however, for on repeating

the experiment next morning, when the tide was out, the mercury rose no

higher than 187°; but, at another spring, where the water bubbled out of

the sand from under the rock at the S.W. corner of the harbour, the mercury

in the same thermometer rose to 202°-1/2, which is but little colder than

boiling water. The hot places before mentioned are from about three to four

hundred feet perpendicular above these springs, and on the slope of the

same ridge with the volcano; that is, there are no vallies between them,

but such as are formed in the ridge itself; nor is the volcano on the

highest part of the ridge, but on the S.E. side of it. This is, I have been

told, contrary to the general opinion of philosophers, who say that

volcanos must be on the summits of the highest hills. So far is this from

being the case on this island, that some of its hills are more than double

the height of that on which the volcano is, and close to it. To these

remarks I must add, that, in wet or moist weather, the volcano was most

violent. There seems to be room for some philosophical reasoning on these

phenomena of nature; but not having any talent that way, I must content

myself with stating facts as I found them, and leave the causes to men of

more abilities.[7]

The tiller was now finished; but, as the wind was unfavourable for sailing,

the guard was sent on shore on the 19th as before, and a party of men to

cut up and bring off the remainder of the tree from which we had got the

tiller. Having nothing else to do, I went on shore with them, and finding a

good number of the natives collected about the landing-place as usual, I

distributed among them all the articles I had with me, and then went on

board for more. In less than an hour I returned, just as our people were

getting some large logs into the boat. At the same time four or five of the

natives stepped forward to see what we were about, and as we did not allow

them to come within certain limits, unless to pass along the beach, the

centry ordered them, back, which they readily complied with. At this time,

having my eyes fixed on them, I observed the sentry present his piece (as I

thought at these men,) and was just going to reprove him for it, because I

had observed that, whenever this was done, some of the natives would hold

up their arms, to let us see they were equally ready. But I was astonished

beyond measure when the sentry fired, for I saw not the least cause. At

this outrage most of the people fled; it was only a few I could prevail on

to remain. As they ran off, I observed one man to fall; and he was

immediately lifted up by two others, who took him into the water, and

washed his wound, and then led him off. Presently after, some came and

described to me the nature of his wound; and as I found he was not carried

far, I sent for the surgeon. As soon as he arrived, I went with him to the

man, whom, we found expiring. The ball had struck his left arm, which was

much shattered, and then entered his body by the short ribs, one of which

was broken. The rascal who fired, pretended that a man had laid an arrow

across his bow, and was going to shoot at him, so that he apprehended

himself in danger. But this was no more than they had always done, and with

no other view than to shew they were armed as well as we; at least I have

reason to think so, as they never went farther. What made this incident the

more unfortunate was, it not appearing to be the man who bent the bow, that

was shot, but one who stood by him. This affair threw the natives into the

utmost consternation; and a few that were prevailed on to stay, ran to the

plantations and brought cocoa-nuts, &c. which they laid down at our feet.

So soon, were those daring people humbled! When I went on board to dinner,

they all retired, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, amongst whom

were Paowang and Wha-a-gou. I had not seen this young man since the day he

had dined on board. Both he and Paowang promised to bring me fruit, &c. the

next morning, but our early departure put it out of their power.[8]

[1] "In order to make the sequel more intelligible, it will be

necessary to give a slight sketch of the appearance of the country

which encloses the harbour. The point which forms its eastern shore is

very low and flat, but presently rises into a level hill, about

fifteen or twenty yards high, which is wholly laid out in plantations.

This encompasses the eastern and southern shore of the bay, being near

three miles long, and extending several miles inland to the sea on the

other side. Where this flat hill ends, a fine plain covered with

plantations runs to the southward, bounded by several ranges of

pleasant hills, of which the nearest are of easy ascent. To the west

this plain, as well as the whole bay itself, is enclosed by a steep

hill, three or four hundred yards high, which is nearly perpendicular

in most places. A narrow beach of large broken shingles and stones

runs along the western shore, but a perpendicular rock separates it

from the southern beach. This last is very broad, and consists of a

firm black sand; it bounds the plain, and is the same where we cut

wood and filled our casks with water. A beach of coral rock and shell

sand continues from thence along the foot of the flat hill quite to

the eastern point of the harbour. The flat hill does not lie close to

this beach, but a space of level land, thirty or forty yards wide,

covered with groves of palms, extends to its foot. The whole south

east corner of the bay is filled with a flat reef of coral, which is

overflowed at low water."--G.F.

[2] "The women and children, though they brought us several dainties,

were notwithstanding so extremely timorous, that if we only fixed our

eyes upon them, they instantly ran away, to the great entertainment of

the men. However, their coming so near us, was sufficient proof that

we had made great progress towards gaining their confidence. We

observed some of them who had a smile on their countenances, but in

general they looked gloomy and melancholy. Whenever we presented a

bead, a nail, or ribbon to any of the people, they refused to touch

it, but desired us to lay it down, and then took it up in a leaf.

Whether this was owing to some superstitious notions, or to a fancied

idea of cleanliness, or of civility, must remain a matter of doubt."--

G.F.

[3] "He, as well as all his countrymen, had not the same facility of

pronunciation as the Mallecollese; we were therefore obliged to tell

him our names, modified according to the softer organs of the

Otaheitans. His features were rather handsome, his eyes large and very

lively; and the whole countenance expressed good humour,

sprightliness, and acuteness.

To mention only a single instance of his ingenuity; it happened that

my father and Captain Cook, on comparing their vocabularies,

discovered that each had collected a different word to signify the

sky; they appealed to him to know which of the two expressions was

right; he presently held out one hand, and applied it to one of the

words, then moving the other hand under it, he pronounced the second

word; intimating that the upper was properly the sky, and the lower

the clouds which moved under it. His manners at table were extremely

becoming and decent; and the only practice which did not appear quite

cleanly in our eyes, was his making use of a stick, which he wore in

his hair, instead of a fork, with which he occasionally scratched his

head."--G.F.

[4] These people, according to Mr G.F., frequently alluded to this

horrid practice, and threatened it indeed to those of the crew that,

in opposition to their will, offered to go to certain spots on the

island. Hence, that gentleman infers the existence of the practice

among them, and perhaps with great justice, as there can be little or

no doubt that it either has prevailed or now prevails in all the

islands of the South Seas.--E.

[5] "We took a walk to the eastward along the shore of the bay, and

looked into the groves which skirted the flat hill before spoken of.

We found these groves to consist of coco-palms, and several species of

shady fig-trees, with eatable fruits, nearly of the size of the common

figs. We also observed several sheds, under which some of their canoes

were secured from the sun and weather; but there were no habitations,

except towards the eastern point. We found a path, which led through a

variety of bushes upon the flat hills. In our way to it, we crossed

some glades, or meadows, enclosed in woods on all sides, and covered

with a very rich herbage of the most vivid green. We passed through a

little airy grove, into several extensive plantations of bananos,

yams, eddoes, and fig-trees, which were in some places enclosed in

fences of stone two feet high."--G.F.

[6] "We took the opportunity of the absence of the natives, to walk

out upon the plain, behind the watering-place. We met with several

ponds of stagnant water, in which the natives had planted great

quantities of eddoes. The coco-palms formed spacious groves, full of

different shrubberies, where a great number of birds of different

sorts, chiefly fly-catchers, creepers, and parroquets, resided. We saw

likewise many lofty trees, covered with nuts, which are common at

Otaheite, (_isrocarpus_ Nov. Gen.). These trees were commonly the

resort of pigeons of different kinds, and chiefly of the sort which

are to be met with at the Friendly Islands, where the natives catch

and tame them. We passed by some plantations of bananas and sugar-

canes, but saw no houses, the greatest part of the ground being

uncultivated, and covered with shady forests, or low shrubberies. At

the east end of the plain we observed a long and spacious valley, from

whence we saw a great number of smokes rising, and heard the

promiscuous voices of many men, women and children. We stood in a

path, on both sides of which were thick shrubberies; and the vale

itself was so full of groves, that we neither saw the people, whose

voices we heard, nor any of their dwellings. It being late in the

evening, we proceeded no farther, and without discovering ourselves,

retreated to the beach."--G.F.

[7] The elder Forster has some judicious and important remarks on

volcanos, in his observations, but they are too long to be given here.

"It may be remarked," says his son, "that the volcano and its

productions seem to contribute greatly to that prodigious luxuriance

of vegetation which is so remarkable on this island. Many plants here

attain twice the height which they have in other countries; their

leaves are broader, their flowers larger, and more richly scented. The

same observation has been made in various volcanic countries. The soil

of Vesuvius and Etna is reckoned the most fertile in Italy and Sicily;

and some of the best flavoured wines which Italy produces are raised

upon it. The volcanic ground on the Habichtswald in Hesse, though

situated in a high, cold, and barren country, is surprisingly fertile,

and covered with verdure. All kinds of plants, indigenous and foreign,

thrive with luxuriance, and make this beautiful spot, on which the

gardens of the landgrave are situated, the admiration of all

beholders. Nay, to confine ourselves to our own voyage, the Society

Islands, the Marquesas, and some of the Friendly Islands, where we

found volcanic remains, as well as Ambrrym and Tanna, where we

actually saw burning mountains, have a rich and fertile soil, in which

nature displays the magnificence of the vegetable kingdom. Easter

Island itself, wholly overturned by some volcanic eruption, produces

different vegetables and useful roots, without any other soil than

flags, cinders, and pumice-stones; though the burning heat of the sun,

from which there is no shelter, should seem sufficient to shrivel and

destroy every plant."--G.F.

[8] Mr G.F. has spoken of the atrocious deed above recited with much

indignation, and the more so apparently, as it broke in on a very

pleasing series of reflections he was indulging, on the felicity of

these islanders and the friendly intercourse with them that had been

at last effected. He concludes his account of it in the following

manner.--"Thus one dark and detestable action effaced all the hopes

with which I had flattered myself. The natives, instead of looking

upon us in a more favourable light than upon other strangers, had

reason to detest us much more, as we came to destroy under the

specious mask of friendship; and some amongst us lamented that instead

of making amends at this place for the many rash acts which we had

perpetrated at almost every island in our course, we had wantonly made

it the scene of the greatest cruelty. Captain Cook resolved to punish

the marine with the utmost rigour for having transgressed his positive

orders, according to which the choleric emotions of the savages were

to be repressed with gentleness, and prudently suffered to cool. But

the officer who commanded on shore, declared that he had not delivered

these orders to the sentry, but given him others which imported, that

the least threat was to be punished with immediate death. The soldier

was therefore immediately cleared, and the officer's right to dispose

of the lives of the natives remained uncontroverted." The reader must

have long ago perceived in the sentiments and language of this

certainly eloquent writer, very sufficient grounds for much of the

offence which his account of this voyage gave in England at the time

of its publication. Now perhaps we can bear to be told of past

transgressions, with considerable tranquillity, because we pride

ourselves on the conviction of increased moral feeling; but the man

who should act the friendless part of a censor among us, would still

be able to discover our iniquity, in the resentment we exhibited at

his officiousness.--E.

SECTION VI.

_Departure from Tanna; with some Account of its Inhabitants, their

Manners and Arts._

During the night the wind had veered round to S.E. As this was favourable

for getting out of the harbour, at four o'clock in the morning of the 20th,

we began to unmoor, and at eight, having weighed our last anchor, put to

sea. As soon as we were clear of the land, I brought-to, waiting for the

launch, which was left behind to take up a kedge-anchor and hawser we had

out, to cast by. About day-break a noise was heard in the woods, nearly

abreast of us, on the east side of the harbour, not unlike singing of

psalms. I was told that the like had been heard at the same time every

morning, but it never came to my knowledge till now, when it was too late

to learn the occasion of it. Some were of opinion, that at the east point

of the harbour (where we observed, in coming in, some houses, boats, &c.)

was something sacred to religion, because some of our people had attempted

to go to this point, and were prevented by the natives. I thought, and do

still think, it was owing to a desire they shewed on every occasion, of

fixing bounds to our excursions. So far as we had once been, we might go

again; but not farther with their consent. But by encroaching a little

every time, our country expeditions were insensibly extended without giving

the least umbrage. Besides, these morning ceremonies, whether religious or

not, were not performed down at that point, but in a part where some of our

people had been daily.[1]

I cannot say what might be the true cause of these people shewing such

dislike to our going up into their country. It might be owing to a

naturally jealous disposition, or perhaps to their being accustomed to

hostile visits from their neighbours, or quarrels among themselves.

Circumstances seemed to shew that such must frequently happen; for we

observed them very expert in arms, and well accustomed to them; seldom or

never travelling without them. It is possible all this might be on our

account; but I hardly think it. We never gave them the least molestation,

nor did we touch any part of their property, not even the wood and water,

without first having obtained their consent. The very cocoa-nuts, hanging

over the heads of the workmen, were as safe as those in the middle of the

island. It happened rather fortunately, that there were so many cocoa-nut

trees, near the skirts of the harbour, which seemed not to be private

property; so that we could generally prevail on the natives to bring us

some of these nuts, when nothing would induce them to bring any out of the

country.

We were not wholly without refreshments; for besides the fish, which our

seine now and then provided us with, we procured daily some fruits or roots

from the natives, though but little in proportion to what we could consume.

The reason why we got no more might be our having nothing to give them in

exchange, which they thought valuable. They had not the least knowledge of

iron; consequently, nails and iron tools, beads, &c. which had so great a

run at the more eastern isles, were of no consideration here; and cloth can

be of no use to people who go naked.

The produce of this island is bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, a fruit

like a nectarine, yams, tarra, a sort of potatoe, sugar-cane, wild figs, a

fruit like an orange, which is not eatable, and some other fruit and nuts

whose names I have not. Nor have I any doubt that the nutmeg before

mentioned was the produce of this island. The bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and

plantains, are neither so plentiful nor so good as at Otaheite; on the

other hand, sugar-canes and yams are not only in greater plenty, but of

superior quality, and much larger. We got one of the latter which weighed

fifty-six pounds, every ounce of which was good. Hogs did not seem to be

scarce; but we saw not many fowls. These are the only domestic animals they

have. Land-birds are not more numerous than at Otaheite, and the other

islands; but we met with some small birds, with a very beautiful plumage,

which we had never seen before. There is as great a variety of trees and

plants here, as at any island we touched at, where our botanists had time

to examine. I believe these people live chiefly on the produce of the land,

and that the sea contributes but little to their subsistence. Whether this

arises from the coast not abounding with fish, or from their being bad

fishermen, I know not; both causes perhaps concur. I never saw any sort of

fishing-tackle amongst them, nor any one out fishing, except on the shoals,

or along the shores of the harbour, where they would watch to strike with a

dart such fish as came within their reach; and in this they were expert.

They seemed much to admire our catching fish with the seine; and, I

believe, were not well pleased with it at last. I doubt not, they have

other methods of catching fish besides striking them.[2]

We understood that the little isle of Immer was chiefly inhabited by

fishermen, and that the canoes we frequently saw pass, to and from that

isle and the east point of the harbour, were fishing canoes. These canoes

were of unequal sizes, some thirty feet long, two broad, and three deep;

and they are composed of several pieces of wood clumsily sewed together

with bandages. The joints are covered on the outside by a thin batten

champered off at the edges, over which the bandages pass. They are

navigated either by paddles or sails. The sail is lateen, extended to a

yard and boom, and hoisted to a short mast. Some of the large canoes have

two sails, and all of them outriggers.

At first we thought the people of this island, as well as those of

Erromango, were a race between the natives of the Friendly Islands and

those of Mallicollo; but a little acquaintance with them convinced us that

they had little or no affinity to either, except it be in their hair, which

is much like what the people of the latter island have. The general colours

of it are black and brown, growing to a tolerable length, and very crisp

and curly. They separate it into small locks, which they woold or cue round

with the rind of a slender plant, down to about an inch of the ends; and,

as the hair grows, the woolding is continued. Each of these cues or locks

is somewhat thicker than common whipcord; and they look like a parcel of

small strings hanging down from the crown of their heads. Their beards,

which are strong and bushy, are generally short. The women do not wear

their hair so, but cropped; nor do the boys, till they approach manhood.

Some few men, women, and children, were seen, who had hair like ours; but

it was obvious that these were of another nation; and, I think, we

understood they came from Erronan. It is to this island they ascribe one of

the two languages which they speak, and which is nearly, if not exactly,

the same as that spoken in the Friendly Islands. It is therefore more than

probable that Erronan was peopled from that nation, and that by long

intercourse with Tanna and the other neighbouring islands, each had learnt

the other's language, which they use indiscriminately.

The other language which the people of Tanna speak, and, as we understood,

those of Erromango and Annatom, is properly their own. It is different from

any we had before met with, and bears no affinity to that of Mallicollo; so

that, it should seem, the people of these islands are a distinct nation of

themselves. Mallicollo, Apee, &c. were names entirely unknown to them; they

even knew nothing of Sandwich Island, which is much nearer. I took no small

pains to know how far their geographical knowledge extended; and did not

find that it exceeded the limits of their horizon.[3]

These people are of the middle size, rather slender than otherwise; many

are little, but few tall or stout; the most of them have good features, and

agreeable countenances; are, like all the tropical race, active and nimble;

and seem to excel in the use of arms, but not to be fond of labour. They

never would put a hand to assist in any work we were carrying on, which the

people of the other islands used to delight in. Bat what I judge most from,

is their making the females do the most laborious work, as if they were

pack-horses. I have seen a woman carrying a large bundle on her back, or a

child on her back and a bundle under her arm, and a fellow strutting before

her with nothing but a club or spear, or some such thing. We have

frequently observed little troops of women pass, to and fro, along the

beach, laden with fruit and roots, escorted by a party of men under arms;

though, now and then, we have seen a man carry a burden at the same time,

but not often. I know not on what account this was done, nor that an armed

troop was necessary. At first, we thought they were moving out of the

neighbourhood with their effects, but we afterwards saw them both carry

out, and bring in, every day.

I cannot say the women are beauties, but I think them handsome enough for

the men, and too handsome for the use that is made of them. Both sexes are

of a very dark colour, but not black; nor have they the least

characteristic of the negro about them. They make themselves blacker than

they really are, by painting their faces with a pigment of the colour of

black-lead. They also use another sort which is red, and a third sort

brown, or a colour between red and black. All these, but especially the

first, they lay on with a liberal hand, not only on the face, but on the

neck, shoulders, and breast. The men wear nothing but a belt, and the

wrapping leaf as at Mallicollo. The women have a kind of petticoat made of

the filaments of the plantain-tree, flags, or some such thing, which

reaches below the knee. Both sexes wear ornaments, such as bracelets, ear-

rings, necklaces, and amulets. The bracelets are chiefly worn by the men;

some made of sea-shells, and others of those of the cocoa-nut. The men also

wear amulets; and those of most value being made of a greenish stone, the

green stone of New Zealand is valued by them for this purpose. Necklaces

are chiefly used by the women, and made mostly of shells. Ear-rings are

common to both sexes, and those valued most are made of tortoise-shell.

Some of our people having got some at the Friendly Islands, brought it to a

good market here, where it was of more value than any thing we had besides;

from which I conclude that these people catch but few turtle, though I saw

one in the harbour, just as we were getting under sail. I observed that,

towards the latter end of our stay, they began to ask for hatchets, and

large nails, so that it is likely they had found that iron is more

serviceable than stone, bone, or shells, of which all their tools I have

seen are made. Their stone hatchets, at least all those I saw, are not in

the shape of adzes, as at the other islands, but more like an axe. In the

helve, which is pretty thick, is made a hole into which the stone is fixed.

These people, besides the cultivation of ground, have few other arts worth

mentioning. They know how to make a coarse kind of matting, and a coarse

cloth of the bark of a tree, which is used chiefly for belts. The

workmanship of their canoes, I have before observed, is very rude; and

their arms, with which they take the most pains in point of neatness, come

far short of some others we have seen. Their weapons are clubs, spears or

darts, bows and arrows, and stones. The clubs are of three or four kinds,

and from three to five feet long. They seem to place most dependence on the

darts, which are pointed with three bearded edges. In throwing them they

make use of a becket, that is, a piece of stiff plaited cord about six

inches long, with an eye in one end and a knot at the other. The eye is

fixed on the fore-finger of the right hand, and the other end is hitched

round the dart, where it is nearly on an equipoise. They hold the dart

between the thumb and remaining fingers, which serve only to give it

direction, the velocity being communicated by the becket and fore-finger.

The former flies off from the dart the instant its velocity becomes greater

than that of the hand. But it remains on the finger ready to be used again.

With darts they kill both birds and fish, and are sure of hitting a mark,

within the compass of the crown of a hat, at the distance of eight or ten

yards; but, at double that distance, it is chance if they hit a mark the

size of a man's body, though they will throw the weapon sixty or seventy

yards. They always throw with all their might, let the distance be what it

will. Darts, bows and arrows are to them what musquets are to us. The

arrows are made of reeds pointed with hard wood; some are bearded and some

not, and those for shooting birds have two, three, and sometimes four

points. The stones they use are, in general, the branches of coral rocks

from eight to fourteen inches long, and from an inch to an inch-and-half in

diameter. I know not if they employ them as missive weapons; almost every

one of them carries a club, and besides that, either darts, or a bow and

arrows, but never both; those who had stones kept them generally in their

belts.

I cannot conclude this account of their arms without adding an entire

passage out of Mr Wales's journal. As this gentleman was continually on

shore amongst them, he had a better opportunity of seeing what they could

perform, than any of us. The passage is as follows: "I must confess I have

been often led to think the feats which Homer represents his heroes as

performing with their spears, a little too much of the marvellous to be

admitted into an heroic poem; I mean when confined within the strait stays

of Aristotle. Nay, even so great an advocate for him as Mr Pope,

acknowledges them to be _surprising_. But since I have seen what these

people can do with their wooden spears, and them badly pointed, and not of

a very hard nature, I have not the least exception to any one passage in

that great poet on this account. But, if I see fewer exceptions, I can find

infinitely more beauties in him; as he has, I think, scarce an action,

circumstance, or description of any kind whatever, relating to a spear,

which I have not seen and recognised among these people; as their whirling

motion, and whistling noise, as they fly; their quivering motion, as they

stick in the ground when they fall; their meditating their aim, when they

are going to throw, and their shaking them in their hand as they go along,

&c. &c."

I know no more of their cookery, than that it consists of roasting and

baking; for they have no vessel in which water can be boiled. Nor do I know

that they have any other liquor but water and the juice of the cocoa-

nut.[4]

We are utter strangers to their religion; and but little acquainted with

their government. They seem to have chiefs among them; at least some were

pointed out to us by that title; but, as I before observed, they appeared

to have very little authority over the rest of the people. Old Geogy was

the only one the people were ever seen to take the least notice of; but

whether this was owing to high rank or old age, I cannot say. On several

occasions I have seen the old men respected and obeyed. Our friend Paowang

was so; and yet I never heard him called chief, and have many reasons to

believe that he had not a right to any more authority than many of his

neighbours, and few, if any, were bound to obey him, or any other person in

our neighbourhood; for if there had been such a one, we certainly should,

by some means, have known it. I named the harbour Port Resolution, after

the ship, she being the first which ever entered it. It is situated on the

north side of the most eastern point of the island, and about E.N.E. from

the volcano; in the latitude of 19° 32' 25" 1/2 S., and in the longitude of

169° 44' 35" E. It is no more than a little creek running in S. by W. 1/2

W. three quarters of a mile, and is about half that in breadth. A shoal of

sand and rocks, lying on the east side, makes it still narrower. The depth

of water in the harbour is from six to three fathoms, and the bottom is

sand and mud. No place can be more convenient for taking in wood and water;

for both are close to the shore. The water stunk a little after it had been

a few days on board, but it afterwards turned sweet; and even when it was

at the worst, the tin machine would, in a few hours, recover a whole cask.

This is an excellent contrivance for sweetening water at sea, and is well

known in the navy.

Mr Wales, from whom I had the latitude and longitude, found the variation

of the needle to be 7° 14' 12" E., and the dip of its south end 45° 2' 3/4.

He also observed the time of high water, on the full and change days, to be

about 5h 45m; and the tide to rise and fall three feet.

[1] According to Mr G.F. nothing, except this very dubious

circumstance of the solemn song, could be discovered among these

people, to indicate religion or superstitious notions. He mentions

indeed, their practice of taking up the presents given them on a leaf,

but properly enough remarks, that as even this was not general, and as

it even ceased on the parties becoming better acquainted, no stress

ought to be laid upon it. Obviously, the information is too scanty to

warrant decided opinions on the subject; but reasoning from analogy

and what is related of the conduct and enjoyments of these islanders,

one could not readily embrace the notion that they were quite

destitute of both religious ideas and practices.--E.

[2] Mr G.F. informs us that not less than forty different species of

plants are cultivated in this island, and the nutmeg he conceives to

be among its spontaneous ones. Of the fish found here he specifies

mullet, Brasilian pike, garfish, dolphins, cavalhas, parrot-fish,

sting-rays, toothless-rays, angel-fish, sharks, sinking-fish, and

varieties of mackrel. Its birds are several sorts of pigeons,

parroquets, fly-catchers, the Ceylonese owl, a species of creeper, a

sort of duck, and a purple water-hen. The cock and hen are its only

tame fowls; and there are but three quadrupeds, hogs, rats, and

bats.--E.

[3] If I might venture a conjecture, founded upon the languages which

we heard spoken in this island, I should suppose that several tribes

of different nations have peopled it, and may have disputed the

possession of the ground with each other. Besides the common language

of the island, and a dialect of that of the Friendly Islands, we

collected some words of a third language, chiefly current among the

inhabitants of its western hills; and we particularly obtained the

numerals of all the three tongues, which are indeed totally extinct.

In the common language of Tanna we met with two or three words, which

have a clear affinity with the language of Mallicollo, and about the

same number corresponded with some words of the Malay; but in general

they are wholly unlike each other, and related to no other language

that I know of. There is a strong kind of aspiration, and a guttural

sound, in many words at Tanna, which are however very sonorous and

full of vowels, and therefore easily pronounced."--G.F.

[4] Captain Cook has neglected to notice the musical genius of these

people. The following remarks on it are worthy of quotation.--"As I

happened to hum a song one day, many of them very eagerly entreated me

to sing to them, and though not one of us was properly acquainted with

music, yet we ventured to gratify their curiosity, and offered them a

great variety of airs. Some German and English songs, especially of

the more lively kind, pleased them very much; but Dr Sparrman's

Swedish tunes gained universal applause; from whence it appeared that

their judgment in music was not influenced by the same rules which

regulate the taste of other countries. When we had performed, we

desired them in return to give us an opportunity of admiring their

talents, and one of them immediately began a very simple tune; it was

however harmonious, and, as for as we could judge, superior to the

music of all the nations in the tropical part of the South Sea, which

we had hitherto heard. It ran through a much more considerable compass

of notes, than is employed at Otaheite, or even at Tonga-Tabboo; and

had a serious turn which distinguished it very remarkably from the

softer effeminate music of those islands. The words seemed to be

naturally arranged, and flowed very currently from the tongue. When

the first had finished his song, another began; his tune was different

as to the composition, but had the same serious style which strongly

marked the general turn of the people. They were indeed seldom seen to

laugh so heartily, and jest so facetiously, as the more polished

nations of the Friendly and Society Islands, who have already learnt

to set a great value on these enjoyments. On the afternoon of this

day, our friends importuned us to sing to them again. We readily

complied with their request, and when they seemed to wonder at the

difference in our songs, we endeavoured to make them comprehend that

we were natives of different countries. Hearing this, they pointed out

an elderly thin man in the circle of our hearers, and telling us that

he was a native of Irromanga, desired him to sing to us. The man

immediately stepped forward, and began a song, in the course of which

he made a variety of gesticulations, not only to our entertainment,

but to the great satisfaction of all the people about him. His song

was to the full as musical as that of the people of Tanna, but it

seemed to be of a droll or humorous nature, from his various ludicrous

postures, and from the particular tone of the whole. The language was

utterly distinct from that of Tanna, but not harsh or ill suited to

music. It seemed likewise to have a certain metre, but very different

from that slow and serious one which we heard this morning. It

appeared to us when he had done singing, that the people of Tanna

spoke to him in his own language, but that he was not acquainted with

theirs. Whether he came as a visitor, or had been taken prisoner, we

could not determine."--G.F.

According to this gentleman, these people had a musical instrument,

which consisted of eight reeds like the syrin of Tonga-Tabbo, with

this difference, that the reeds regularly decreased in size, and

comprehended an octave, though the single reeds were not perfectly in

tune. It is worth while noticing here, that one of these people having

one day blown with great violence into his hand several times, as a

signal, he was soon answered by the sounding of several conchs in

different places.--E.

SECTION VII.

_The Survey of the Islands continued, and a more particular Description

of them._

As soon as the boats were hoisted in, we made sail, and stretched to the

eastward, with a fresh gale at S.E., in order to have a nearer view of

Erronan, and to see if there was any land in its neighbourhood. We stood on

till midnight, when, having passed the island, we tacked, and spent the

remainder of the night making two boards. At sun-rise on the 21st, we stood

S.W., in order to get to the south of Tanna, and nearer to Annatom, to

observe if any more land lay in that direction; for an extraordinary clear

morning had produced no discovery of any to the east. At noon, having

observed in latitude 20° 33' 30", the situation of the lands around us was

as follows: Port Resolution bore north 86° W., distant six and a half

leagues; the island of Tanna extended from S. 88° W., to N. 64° W.;

Traitor's Head N. 58° W., distant twenty leagues; the island of Erronan N.

80° E., distant five leagues; and Annatom from S. 1/2 E. to S. 1/2 W.,

distant ten leagues. We continued to stretch to the south till two o'clock

p.m. when, seeing no more land before us, we bore up round the S.E. end of

Tanna; and, with a fine gale at E.S.E., ran along the south coast at one

league from shore. It seemed a bold one, without the guard of any rocks;

and the country full as fertile as in the neighbourhood of the harbour, and

making a fine appearance. At six o'clock the high land of Erromango

appeared over the west end of Tanna in the direction of 10° W.; at eight

o'clock we were past the island, and steered N.N.W. for Sandwich Island, in

order to finish the survey[1] of it, and of the isles to the N.W. On the

22d, at four o'clock p.m., we drew near the S.E. end, and ranging the south

coast, found it to trend in the direction of W. and W.N.W. for about nine

leagues. Near the middle of this length, and close to the shore, are three

or four small isles, behind which seemed to be a safe anchorage. But not

thinking I had any time to spare to visit this fine island, I continued to

range the coast to its western extremity, and then steered N.N.W, from the

S.E. end of Mallicollo, which, at half past six o'clock next morning, bore

N. 14° E., distant seven or eight leagues, and Three-Hills Island S. 82°

E.[2] Soon after, we saw the islands Apee, Paom, and Ambrym. What we had

comprehended under the name of Paom appeared now to be two isles, something

like a separation being seen between the hill and the land to the west of

it. We approached the S.W. side of Mallicollo to within half a league, and

ranged it at that distance. From the S.E. point, the direction of the land

is west, a little southerly, for six or seven leagues, and then N.W. by W.

three leagues, to a pretty high point or head-land, situated in latitude

16° 29', and which obtained the name of South-west Cape. The coast, which

is low, seemed to be indented into creeks and projecting points; or else,

these points were small isles lying under the shore. We were sure of one,

which lies between two and three leagues east of the Cape. Close to the

west side or point of the Cape, lies, connected with it by breakers, a

round rock or islet, which helps to shelter a fine bay, formed by an elbow

in the coast, from the reigning winds.[3]

The natives appeared in troops on many parts of the shore, and some seemed

desirous to come off to us in canoes, but they did not; and, probably, our

not shortening sail, was the reason. From the South-west Cape, the

direction of the coast is N. by W.; but the most advanced land bore from it

N.W. by N., at which the land seemed to terminate. Continuing to follow the

direction of the coast, at noon it was two miles from us; and our latitude,

by observation, was 16° 22' 30" S. This is nearly the parallel to Port

Sandwich, and our never-failing guide, the watch, shewed that we were 26'

west of it; a distance which the breadth of Mallicollo cannot exceed in

this parallel. The South-east Cape bore S. 26° E., distant seven miles; and

the most advanced point of land, for which we steered, bore N.W. by N. At

three o'clock, we were the length of it, and found the land continued, and

trending more and more to the north. We coasted it to its northern

extremity, which we did not reach till after dark, at which time we were

near enough to the shore to hear the voices of people, who were assembled

round a fire they had made on the beach. There we sounded, and found twenty

fathoms and a bottom of sand; but, on edging off from the shore, we soon

got out of sounding, and then made a trip back to the south till the moon

got up. After this we stood again to the north, hauled round the point, and

spent the night in Bougainville's passage; being assured of our situation

before sun-set, by seeing the land, on the north side of the passage,

extending as far as N.W. 1/2 W.

The south coast of Mallicollo, from the S.E. end to the S.W. Cape, is

luxuriantly clothed with wood, and other productions of nature, from the

sea-shore to the very summits of the hills. To the N.W. of the Cape the

country is less woody, but more agreeably interspersed with lawns, some of

which appeared to be cultivated. The summits of the hills seemed barren;

and the highest lies between Port Sandwich and the S.W. Cape. Farther north

the land falls insensibly lower, and is less covered with wood. I believe

it is a very fertile island, and well inhabited; for we saw smoke by day

and fire by night, in all parts of it.[4]

Next morning at sun-rise, we found ourselves nearly in the middle of the

passage, the N.W. end of Mallicollo extending from S. 30° E., to S. 58° W.;

the land to the north from N. 70° W. to N. 4° E.; and the Isle of Lepers

bearing N. 30° E., distant eleven or twelve leagues. We now made sail, and

steered N. by E., and afterwards north, along the east coast of the

northern land, with a fine breeze at S.E. We found that this coast, which

at first appeared to be continued, was composed of several low woody isles,

the most of them of small extent, except the southernmost, which, on

account of the day, I named St Bartholomew. It is six or seven leagues in

circuit, and makes the N.E. point of Bougainville's Passage. At noon the

breeze began to slacken. We were at this time between two and three miles

from the land, and observed in latitude 15° 23' the Isle of Lepers bearing

from E. by N. to S., distance seven leagues; and a high bluff-head, at

which the coast we were upon seemed to terminate, N.N.W. 1/2 W., distant

ten or eleven leagues; but from the mast-head we could see land to the

east. This we judged to be an island, and it bore N. by W. 1/2 W.

As we advanced to N.N.W., along a fine coast covered with woods, we

perceived low land that extended off from the bluff-head towards the island

above mentioned, but did not seem to join it. It was my intention to have

gone through the channel, but the approach of night made me lay it aside,

and steer without the island. During the afternoon, we passed some small

isles lying under the shore; and observed some projecting points of unequal

height, but were not able to determine whether or no they were connected

with the main land. Behind them was a ridge of hills which terminated at

the bluff-head. There were cliffs, in some places of the coast, and white

patches, which we judged to be chalk. At ten o'clock, being the length of

the isle which lies off the head, we shortened sail, and spent the night in

making short boards.

At day-break on the 25th, we were on the north side of the island (which is

of a moderate height, and three leagues in circuit,) and steered west for

the bluff-head, along the low land under it. At sun-rise an elevated coast

came in sight beyond the bluff-head, extending to the north as far N.W. by

W. After doubling the head we found the land to trend south, a little

easterly, and to form a large deep bay, bounded on the west by the coast

just mentioned.

Every thing conspired to make us believe this was the Bay of St Philip and

St Jago, discovered by Quiros in 1606. To determine this point, it was

necessary to proceed farther up; for at this time we saw no end to it. The

wind being at south, we were obliged to ply, and first stretched over for

the west shore, from which we were three miles at noon, when our latitude

was 14° 55' 30" S., longitude 167° 3' E.; the mouth of the bay extending

from N. 64° W., to S. 86° E., which last direction was the bluff-head,

distant three leagues. In the afternoon the wind veering to E.S.E., we

could look up to the head of the bay; but as the breeze was faint, a N.E.

swell hurtled us over to the west shore; so that, at half past four o'clock

p.m., we were no more than two miles from it, and tacked in one hundred and

twenty fathoms water, a soft muddy bottom. The bluff-head, or east point of

the bay, bore north 53° east.

We had no sooner tacked than it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of

the swell, which continued to hurtle us towards the shore, where large

troops of people were assembled. Some ventured off in two canoes; but all

the signs of friendship we could make, did not induce them to come along-

side, or near enough to receive any present from us. At last they took

sudden fright at something, and returned ashore. They were naked, except

having some long grass, like flags, fastened to a belt, and hanging down

before and behind, nearly as low as the knee. Their colour was very dark,

and their hair woolly, or cut short, which made it seem so.[5] The canoes

were small and had outriggers. The calm continued till near eight o'clock,

in which time we drove into eighty-five fathoms water, and so near the

shore that I expected we should be obliged to anchor. A breeze of wind

sprung up at E.S.E., and first took us on the wrong side; but, contrary to

all our expectations, and when we had hardly room to veer, the ship came

about, and having filled on the starboard tack, we stood off N.E. Thus we

were relieved from the apprehensions of being forced to anchor in a great

depth, on a lee shore, and in a dark and obscure night.

We continued to ply upwards, with variable light breezes between E.S.E. and

S., till ten next morning, when it fell calm. We were, at this time, about

seven or eight miles from the head of the bay, which is terminated by a low

beach; and behind that, is an extensive flat covered with wood, and bounded

on each side by a ridge of mountains. At noon we found the latitude to be

15° 5' S., and were detained here by the calm till one o'clock p.m., when

we got a breeze at N. by W., with which we steered up to within two miles

of the head of the bay; and then I sent Mr Cooper and Mr Gilbert to sound

and reconnoitre the coast, while we stood to and fro with the ship. This

gave time to three sailing canoes which had been following us some time, to

come up. There were five or six men in each; and they approached near

enough to receive such things as were thrown to them fastened to a rope,

but would not advance alongside. They were the same sort of people as those

we had seen the preceding evening; indeed we thought they came from the

same place. They seemed to be stouter and better shaped men than those of

Mallicollo; and several circumstances concurred to make us think they were

of another nation. They named the numerals as far as five or six in the

language of Anamocka, and understood us when we asked the names of the

adjacent lands in that language. Some, indeed, had black short frizzled

hair like the natives of Mallicollo, but others had it long, tied up on the

crown of the head, and ornamented with feathers like the New Zealanders.

Their other ornaments were bracelets and necklaces; one man had something

like a white shell on his forehead, and some were painted with a blackish

pigment. I did not see that they had any other weapon but darts and gigs,

intended only for striking of fish. Their canoes were much like those of

Tanna, and navigated in the same manner, or nearly so. They readily gave us

the names of such parts as we pointed to; but we could not obtain from them

the name of the island. At length, seeing our boats coming, they paddled in

for the shore, notwithstanding all we could say or do to detain them.

When the boats returned, Mr Cooper informed me, that they had landed on the

beach which is at the head of the bay, near a fine river, or stream of

fresh water, so large and deep that they judged boats might enter it at

high water. They found three fathoms depth close to the beach, and fifty-

five and fifty, two cables' length off. Farther out they did not sound; and

where we were with the ship, we had no soundings with a hundred and seventy

fathoms line. Before the boats got on board, the wind had shifted to the

S.S.E. As we were in want of nothing, and had no time to spare, I took the

advantage of this shift of wind, and steered down the bay. During the fore-

part of the night, the country was illuminated with fires, from the sea-

shore to the summits of the mountains; but this was only on the west side

of the shore. I cannot pretend to say what was the occasion of these fires,

but have no idea of their being on our account. Probably, they were burning

or clearing the ground for new plantations. At day-break on the 27th, we

found ourselves two-thirds down the bay, and, as we had but little wind, it

was noon before we were the length of the N.W. point, which at this time

bore N. 82° W., distant five miles. Latitude observed 14° 39' 30".

Some of our gentlemen were doubtful of this being the bay of St Philip and

St Jago, as there was no place which they thought could mean the port of

Vera Cruz. For my part I found general points to agree so well with

Quiros's description, that I had not the least doubt about it. As to what

he calls the Port of Vera Cruz, I understand that to be the anchorage at

the head of the bay, which in some places may extend farther off than where

our boats landed. There is nothing in his account of the port which

contradicts this supposition. It was but natural for his people to give a

name to the place, independent of so large a bay, where they lay so long at

anchor. A port is a vague term, like many others in geography, and has been

very often applied to places far less sheltered than this.

Our officers observed that grass and other plants grew on the beach close

to high water-mark, which is always a sure sign of pacific anchorage, and

an undeniable proof that there never is a great surf on the shore. They

judged that the tide rose about four or five feet, and that boats and such

craft might, at high-water, enter the river, which seemed to be pretty deep

and broad within; so that this, probably, is one of those mentioned by

Quiros; and if we were not deceived, we saw the other.