Day-light shewed that our fears were not ill-founded, and that we had been

in the most imminent danger; having had breakers continually under our lee,

and at a very little distance from us. We owed our safety to the

interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk manner in

which the ship was managed; for, as we were standing to the north, the

people on the lee-gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee-bow,

which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship.

I was now almost tired of a coast which I could no longer explore, but at

the risk of losing the ship, and ruining the whole voyage. I was, however,

determined not to leave it, till I knew what trees those were which had

been the subject of our speculation; especially as they appeared to be of a

sort useful to shipping, and had not been seen any where but in the

southern part of this land. With this view, after making a trip to the

south, to weather the shoals under our lee, we stood to the north, in hopes

of finding anchorage under some of the islets on which these trees grow. We

were stopped by eight o'clock by the shoals which lie extended between the

Isle of Pines and Queen Charlotte's Foreland; and found soundings off them

in fifty-five, forty, and thirty-six fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The

nearer we came to these shoals, the more we saw of them, and we were not

able to say if there was any passage between the two lands.

Being now but a few miles to windward of the low isles lying off the

Foreland, mentioned on the 25th and 26th, I bore down to the one next to

us. As we drew near it, I perceived that it was unconnected with the

neighbouring shoals, and that it is probable we might get to an anchor

under its lee or west side. We therefore stood on, being conducted by an

officer at the mast-head; and after hauling round the point of the reef

which surrounds the isle, we attempted to ply to windward, in order to get

nearer the shore. Another reef to the north confined us to a narrow

channel, through which ran a current against us, that rendered this attempt

fruitless; so that we were obliged to anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water,

the bottom fine coral sand; the isle bearing W. by N. one mile distant. As

soon as this was done, we hoisted out a boat, in which I went on ashore,

accompanied by the botanists. We found the tall trees to be a kind of

spruce pine, very proper for spars, of which we were in want. After making

this discovery, I hastened on board in order to have more time after

dinner, when I landed again with two boats, accompanied by several of the

officers and gentlemen, having with us the carpenter and some of his crew,

to cut down such trees as were wanting. While this was doing I took the

bearings of several lands round. The hill on the Isle of Pines bore

S. 59 30' E; the low point of Queen Charlotte's Foreland N. 14° 30' W.; the

high land over it, seen over two low isles, N. 20° W.; and the most

advanced point of land to the west, bore west, half a point south, distant

six or seven leagues. We had, from several bearings, ascertained the true

direction of the coast from the foreland to this point, which I shall

distinguish by the name of Prince of Wales's Foreland. It is situated in

the latitude of 22° 29' S., longitude 166° 57' E., is of considerable

height, and, when it first appears above the horizon, looks like an island.

From this cape, the coast trended nearly N.W. This was rather too northerly

a direction to join that part which we saw from the hills of Balade. But as

it was very high land which opened off the cape in that direction, it is

very probable that lower land, which we could not see, opened sooner; or

else the coast more to the N.W. takes a more westerly direction, in the

same manner as the N.E. coast. Be this as it may, we pretty well know the

extent of the land, by having it confined within certain limits. However, I

still entertained hopes of seeing more of it, but was disappointed.

The little isle upon which we landed, is a mere sandbank, not exceeding

three-fourths of a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew

the Etoa-tree of Otaheite, and a variety of other trees, shrubs, and

plants. These gave sufficient employment to our botanists, all the time we

stayed upon it, and occasioned my calling it Botany Isle. On it were

several water-snakes, some pigeons, and doves, seemingly different from any

we had seen. One of the officers shot a hawk, which proved to be of the

very same sort as our English fishing-hawks. Several fire-places, branches,

and leaves very little decayed, remains of turtle, &c. shewed that people

had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe, precisely of the same

shape as those we had seen at Balade, lay wrecked in the sand. We were now

no longer at a loss to know of what trees they make their canoes, as they

can be no other than these pines. On this little isle were some which

measured twenty inches diameter, and between sixty and seventy feet in

length, and would have done very well for a foremast to the Resolution, had

one been wanting. Since trees of this size are to be found on so small a

spot, it is reasonable to expect to find some much larger on the main, and

larger isles; and, if appearances did not deceive us, we can assert it.

If I except New Zealand, I, at this time, knew of no island in the South

Pacific Ocean, where a ship could supply herself with a mast or yard, were

she ever so much distressed for want of one. Thus far the discovery is or

may be valuable. My carpenter, who was a mast-maker as well as a ship-

wright, two trades he learnt in Deptford-yard, was of opinion that these

trees would make exceedingly good masts. The wood is white, close-grained,

tough, and light. Turpentine had exuded out of most of the trees, and the

sun had inspissated it into a rosin, which was found sticking to the

trunks, and lying about the roots. These trees shoot out their branches

like all other pines; with this difference, that the branches of these are

much smaller and shorter; so that the knots become nothing when the tree is

wrought for use. I took notice, that the largest of them had the smallest

and shortest branches, and were crowned, as it were, at the top, by a

spreading branch like a bush. This was what led some on board into the

extravagant notion of their being basaltes: Indeed no one could think of

finding such trees here. The seeds are produced in cones; but we could find

none that had any in them, or that were in a proper state for vegetation or

botanical examination. Besides these, there was another tree or shrub of

the spruce-fir kind, but it was very small. We also found on the isle a

sort of scurvy-grass, and a plant, called by us Lamb's Quarters, which,

when boiled, eat like spinnage.

Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boat-

masts, &c., and night approaching, we returned with them on board.

The purpose for which I anchored under this isle being answered, I was now

to consider what was next to be done. We had from the top-mast-head taken a

view of the sea around us, and observed the whole, to the west, to be

strewed with small islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost extent

of our horizon. They seemed indeed not to be all connected, and to be

divided by winding channels. But when I considered that the extent of this

S.W. coast was already pretty well determined, the great risk attending a

more accurate survey, and the time it would require to accomplish it, on

account of the many dangers we should have to encounter, I determined not

to hazard the ship down to leeward, where we might be so hemmed in as to

find it difficult to return, and by that means lose the proper season for

getting to the south. I now wished to have had the little vessel set up,

the frame of which we had on board. I had some thoughts of doing this, when

we were last at Otaheite, but found it could not be executed, without

neglecting the caulking and other necessary repairs of the ship, or staying

longer there than the route I had in view would admit. It was now too late

to begin setting her up, and then to use her in exploring this coast; and

in our voyage to the south, she could be of no service. These reasons

induced me to try to get without the shoals; that is, to the southward of

them.[2]

Next morning at day-break, we got under sail with a light breeze at E. by

N. We had to make some trips to weather the shoals to leeward of Botany

Isle; but when this was done the breeze began to fail; and at three p.m. it

fell calm. The swell, assisted by the current, set us fast to S.W. towards

the breakers, which were yet in sight in that direction. Thus we continued

till ten o'clock, at which time a breeze springing up at N.N.W. we steered

E.S.E.; the contrary course we had come in; not daring to steer farther

south till daylight.

At three o'clock next morning, the wind veered to S.W., blew hard, and in

squalls, attended with rain, which made it necessary to proceed with our

courses up and top-sails on the cap, till day-break, when the hill on the

Isle of Pines bore north; and our distance from the shore in that direction

was about four leagues. We had now a very strong wind at S.S.W. attended by

a great sea; so that we had reason to rejoice at having got clear of the

shoals before this gale overtook us. Though every thing conspired to make

me think this was the westerly monsoon, it can hardly be comprehended under

that name, for several reasons; first, because it was near a month too soon

for these winds; secondly, because we know not if they reach this place at

all; and lastly, because it is very common for westerly winds to blow

within the tropics. However, I never found them to blow so hard before, or

so far southerly. Be these things as they may, we had now no other choice

but to stretch to S.E., which we accordingly did with our starboard tacks

aboard; and at noon we were out of sight of land.

The gale continued with very little alteration till noon next day; at which

time we observed in latitude 23° 18', longitude made from the Isle of Pines

1° 54' E. In the afternoon we had little wind from the south, and a great

swell from the same direction: And many boobies, tropic, and men-of-war

birds were seen. At eleven o'clock a fresh breeze sprung up at W. by S.,

with which we stood to the south. At this time we were in the latitude of

23° 18', longitude 169° 49' E., and about forty-two leagues south of the

Hebrides.

At eight o'clock in the morning, on the third, the wind veered to S.W. and

blew a strong gale by squalls, attended with rain. I now gave over all

thought of returning to the land we had left. Indeed, when I considered the

vast ocean we had to explore to the south; the state and condition of the

ship, already in want of some necessary stores; that summer was approaching

fast, and that any considerable accident might detain us in this sea

another year; I did not think it advisable to attempt to regain the land.

Thus I was obliged, as it were by necessity, for the first time, to leave a

coast I had discovered, before it was fully explored.--I called it New

Caledonia; and, if we except New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest island

in the South Pacific Ocean. For it extends from the latitude of 19° 37', to

22° 30', S., and from the longitude of 163° 37' to 167° 14' E. It lies

nearly N.W. 1/2 W., and S.E. 1 E., and is about eighty-seven leagues long

in that direction; but its breadth is not considerable, not any where

exceeding ten leagues. It is a country full of hills and valleys; of

various extent both for height and depth. To judge of the whole by the

parts we were on, from these hills spring vast numbers of little rivulets,

which greatly contribute to fertilize the plains, and to supply all the

wants of the inhabitants. The summits of most of the hills seem to be

barren; though some few are cloathed with wood; as are all the plains and

valleys. By reason of these hills, many parts of the coast, when at a

distance from it, appeared indented, or to have great inlets between the

hills; but, when we came near the shore, we always found such places shut

up with low land, and also observed low land to lie along the coast between

the seashore and the foot of the hills. As this was the case in all such

parts as we came near enough to see, it is reasonable to suppose that the

whole coast is so. I am likewise of opinion, that the whole, or greatest

part, is surrounded by reefs or shoals, which render the access to it very

dangerous, but at the same time guard the coast from the violence of the

wind and sea; make it abound with fish, secure an easy and safe navigation

along it, for canoes, &c.; and, most likely, form some good harbours for

shipping. Most, if not every part of the coast, is inhabited, the Isle of

Pines not excepted; for we saw either smoke by day, or fires by night,

wherever we came. In the extent which I have given to this island, is

included the broken or unconnected lands to the N.W. That they may be

connected; I shall not pretend to deny; we were, however, of opinion that

they were isles, and that New Caledonia terminated more to S.E.; though

this at most is but a well-founded conjecture.

But whether these lands be separate isles, or connected with New Caledonia,

it is by no means certain that we saw their termination to the west. I

think we did not; as the shoals did not end with the land we saw, but kept

their N.W. direction farther than Bougainville's track in the latitude of

15° or 15° 1/2. Nay, it seems not improbable, that a chain of isles, sand-

banks, and reefs, may extend to the west, as far as the coast of New South

Wales. The eastern extent of the isles and shoals off that coast, between

the latitude of 15° and 23', were not known. The resemblance of the two

countries; Bougainville's meeting with the shoal of Diana above sixty

leagues from the coast; and the signs he had of land to the S.E.; all tend

to increase the probability. I must confess that it is carrying probability

and conjecture a little too far, to say what may lie in a space of two

hundred leagues; but it is in some measure necessary, were it only to put

some future navigator on his guard.

Mr Wales determined the longitude of that part of New Caledonia we

explored, by ninety-six sets of observations, which were reduced to one

another by our trusty guide the watch. I found the variation of the compass

to be 10° 24' E. This is the mean variation given by the three azimuth

compasses we had on board, which would differ from each other a degree and

a half, and sometimes more. I did not observe any difference in the

variation between the N.W. and S.E. parts of this land, except when we were

at anchor before Balade, where it was less than 10°; but this I did not

regard, as I found such an uniformity out at sea; and it is there where

navigators want to know the variation. While we were on the N.E. coast, I

thought the currents set to S.E. and W. or N.W. on the other side; but they

are by no means considerable, and may, as probably, be channels of tides,

as regular currents. In the narrow channels which divide the shoals, and

those which communicate with the sea, the tides run strong; but their rise

and fall are inconsiderable, not exceeding three feet and a half. The time

of high-water, at the full and change, at Balade, is about six o'clock; but

at Botany Isle we judged it would happen about ten or eleven o'clock.

[1] Mr G.F. very plainly avows his conviction that they were trees,

which on a prodigious tall stem had short and slender branches, not

discernible at a distance. Captain Cook, it is very evident, uses the

language of banter, not quite consistent with either the dignity of

his own character, or the respect due to even the mistaken opinion of

men of science.--E.

[2] "We were becalmed in the evening among the reefs, which surrounded

us on all sides, and made our situation dangerous, on account of the

tides and currents, as well as for want of anchoring-ground, having

sounded in vain with a line of 150 fathoms. At half past seven o'clock

we saw a ball of fire to the northward, in size and splendour

resembling the sun, though somewhat paler. It burst a few moments

after, and left behind it several bright sparks, of which the largest,

of an oblong shape, moved quickly out of our horizon, whilst a kind of

bluish flame followed, and marked its course. Some heard a hissing

noise, which accompanied the swift descent of this meteor. Our

shipmates expected a fresh gale after its appearance; having

frequently observed the same to ensue upon similar occasions. And in

fact, whatever may be the relation between this phenomenon, and the

motion of the atmosphere, or whether it was accident, their

predictions were verified the same night, when a brisk gale sprung up,

which settled at south."--G.F.

If the opinion of some philosophers as to the origin of these fire-

balls, be correct, viz. that they are produced by the combination of

animal or vegetable products suspended in the atmosphere, it is easy

to understand, how, the equilibrium of the atmosphere being destroyed

by the condensation, if one may so call it, of a large part of its

constituent principles, those meteors should be followed by

considerable gales or storms. Perhaps, indeed, this opinion best

explains all the circumstances of this phenomenon, and especially the

occurrence so constantly observed of such agitation. The subject,

however, is still involved in a good deal of difficulty, from which a

long and very accurate course of examination is requisite to deliver

it. Much has been effected in this respect, since the publication of

Forster's work; and there is no reason to doubt, that the application

of an improved chemistry to a careful comparison of all the authentic

relations of such phenomena, will issue in a satisfactory

solution.--E.

SECTION XI.

_Sequel of the Passage from New Caledonia to New Zealand, with an Account

of the Discovery of Norfolk Island; and the Incidents that happened while

the Ship lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound._

The wind continuing at S.W., W.S.W., and W., blowing a fresh gale, and now

and then squalls, with showers of rain, we steered to S.S.E, without

meeting with any remarkable occurrence till near noon on the 6th, when it

fell calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 27° 50' S., longitude

171° 43' E. The calm continued till noon the next day, during which time we

observed the variation to be 10° 33' E. I now ordered the carpenters to

work to caulk the decks. As we had neither pitch, tar, nor rosin, left to

pay the seams, this was done with varnish of pine, and afterwards covered

with coral sand, which made a cement far exceeding my expectation. In the

afternoon, we had a boat in the water, and shot two albatrosses, which were

geese to us. We had seen one of this kind of birds the day before, which

was the first we observed since we had been within the tropic. On the 7th,

at one p.m. a breeze sprung up at south; soon after it veered to, and fixed

at S.E. by S., and blew a gentle gale, attended with pleasant weather.

We stretched to W.S.W., and next day at noon were in the latitude of 28°

25', longitude 170° 26' E. In the evening, Mr Cooper haying struck a

porpoise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring-to, and have two boats

out, before we could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet long; a

female of that kind, which naturalists call dolphin of the ancients, and

which differs from the other kind of porpoise in the head and jaw, having

them long and pointed. This had eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. The haslet

and lean flesh were to us a feast. The latter was a little liverish, but

had not the least fishy taste. It was eaten roasted, broiled, and fried,

first soaking it in warm water. Indeed, little art was wanting to make any

thing fresh, palatable to those who had been living so long on salt

meat.[1]

We continued to stretch to W.S.W. till the 10th, when at day-break we

discovered land, bearing S.W., which on a nearer approach we found to be an

island of good height, and five leagues in circuit. I named it Norfolk

Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It is situated in the

latitude of 29° 2' 30" S. and longitude 168° 16' E. The latter was

determined by lunar observations made on this, the preceding, and following

days; and the former by a good observation at noon, when we were about

three miles from the isle. Soon after we discovered the isle, we sounded in

twenty-two fathoms on a bank of coral sand; after this we continued to

sound, and found not less than twenty-two; or more than twenty-four fathoms

(except near the shore), and the same bottom mixed with broken shells.

After dinner a party of us embarked in two boats, and landed on the island,

without any difficulty, behind some large rocks, which lined part of the

coast on the N.E. side.

We found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the first that ever set foot

on it. We observed many trees and plants common at New Zealand; and, in

particular, the flax-plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any

part of that country; but the chief produce is a sort of spruce-pine, which

grows in great abundance, and to a large size, many of the trees being as

thick, breast high, as two men could fathom, and exceedingly straight and

tall. This pine is a sort between that which grows in New Zealand, and that

in New Caledonia; the foliage differing something from both, and the wood

not so heavy as the former, nor so light and close-grained as the latter.

It is a good deal like the Quebec pine. For about two hundred yards from

the shore, the ground is covered so thick with shrubs and plants, as hardly

to be penetrated farther inland. The woods were perfectly clear and free

from underwood, and the soil seemed rich and deep.

We found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and parroquets as in New

Zealand, rails, and some small birds. The sea-fowl are, white boobies,

gulls, tern, &c. which breed undisturbed on the shores, and in the cliffs

of the rocks.

On the isle is fresh water; and cabbage-palm, wood-sorrel, sow-thistle, and

samphire, abounding in some places on the shore, we brought on board as

much of each sort as the time we had to gather them would admit. These

cabbage-trees or palms were not thicker than a man's leg, and from ten to

twenty feet high. They are of the same genus with the cocoa-nut tree; like

it they have large pinnated leaves, and are the same as the second sort

found in the northern parts of New South Wales. The cabbage is, properly

speaking, the bud of the tree; each tree producing but one cabbage, which

is at the crown, where the leaves spring out, and is inclosed in the stem.

The cutting off the cabbage effectually destroys the tree; so that no more

than one can be had from the same stem. The cocoa-nut tree, and some others

of the palm kind, produce cabbage as well as these. This vegetable is not

only wholesome, but exceedingly palatable, and proved the most agreeable

repast we had for some time.

The coast does not want fish. While we were on shore, the people in the

boats caught some which were excellent. I judged that it was high water at

the full and change, about one o'clock; and that the tide rises and falls

upon a perpendicular about four or five feet.

The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoisted in the

boats, and stretched to E.N.E. (with the wind at S.E.) till midnight, when

we tacked, and spent the remainder of the night making short boards.

Next morning at sun-rise, we made sail, stretching to S.S.W., and weathered

the island; on the south side of which lie two isles, that serve as

roosting and breeding-places for birds. On this, as also on the S.E. side,

is a sandy beach; whereas most of the other shores are bounded by rocky

cliffs, which have twenty and eighteen fathoms water close to them: At

least so we found it on the N.E. side, and with good anchorage. A bank of

coral sand, mixed with shells, on which we found from nineteen to thirty-

five or forty fathoms water, surrounds the isle, and extends, especially to

the south, seven leagues off. The morning we discovered the island, the

variation was found to be 13° 9' E.; but I think this observation gave too

much, as others which we had, both before and after, gave 2° less.[2]

After leaving Norfolk Isle, I steered for New Zealand, my intention being

to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to refresh my crew, and put the ship

in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes.

On the 17th, at day-break, we saw Mount Egmont, which was covered with

everlasting snow, bearing S.E. 1/2 E. Our distance from the shore was about

eight leagues, and, on sounding, we found seventy fathoms water, a muddy

bottom. The wind soon fixed in the western board, and blew a fresh gale,

with which we steered S.S.E. for Queen Charlotte's Sound, with a view of

falling in with Cape Stephens. At noon Cape Egmont bore E.N.E. distant

three or four leagues; and though the mount was hid in the clouds, we

judged it to be in the same direction as the Cape; latitude observed 39°

24'. The wind increased in such a manner as to oblige us to close-reef our

top-sails, and strike top-gallant yards. At last we could bear no more sail

than the two courses, and two close-reefed top-sails; and under them we

stretched for Cape Stephens, which we made at eleven o'clock at night.

At midnight we tacked and made a trip to the north till three o'clock next

morning, when we bore away for the sound. At nine we hauled round Point

Jackson through a sea which looked terrible, occasioned by a rapid tide,

and a high wind; but as we knew the coast, it did not alarm us. At eleven

o'clock we anchored before Ship Cove; the strong flurries from off the land

not permitting us to get in.

In the afternoon, as we could not move the ship, I went into the Cove, with

the seine, to try to catch some fish. The first thing I did after landing,

was to look for the bottle I left hid when last there, in which was the

memorandum. It was taken away, but by whom it did not appear. Two hauls

with the seine producing only four small fish, we, in some measure, made up

for this deficiency, by shooting several birds, which the flowers in the

garden had drawn thither, as also some old shags, and by robbing the nests

of some young ones.

Being little wind next morning, we weighed and warped the ship into the

Cove, and there moored with the two bowers. We unbent the sails to repair

them; several having been split, and otherwise damaged in the late gale.

The main and fore courses, already worn to the very utmost, were condemned

as useless. I ordered the top-masts to be struck and unrigged, in order to

fix to them moveable chocks or knees, for want of which the trestle-trees

were continually breaking; the forge to be set up, to make bolts and repair

our iron-work; and tents to be erected on shore for the reception of a

guard, coopers, sail-makers, &c. I likewise gave orders that vegetables (of

which there were plenty) should be boiled every morning with oatmeal and

portable broth for breakfast, and with pease and broth every day for dinner

for the whole crew, over and above their usual allowance of salt meat.

In the afternoon, as Mr Wales was setting up his observatory, he discovered

that several trees, which were standing when we last sailed from this

place, had been cut down with saws and axes; and a few days after, the

place where an observatory, clock, &c. had been set up, was also found, in

a spot different from that where Mr Wales had placed his. It was,

therefore, now no longer to be doubted, that the Adventure had been in this

cove after we had left it.

Next day, wind southerly; hazy clouded weather. Every body went to work at

their respective employments, one of which was to caulk the ship's sides, a

thing much wanted. The seams were paid with putty, made with cook's fat and

chalk; the gunner happening to have a quantity of the latter on board.

The 21st, wind southerly, with continual rains.

The weather being fair in the afternoon of the 22d, accompanied by the

botanists, I visited our gardens on Motuara, which we found almost in a

state of nature, having been wholly neglected by the inhabitants.

Nevertheless, many articles were in a flourishing condition, and shewed how

well they liked the soil in which they were planted. None of the natives

having yet made their appearance, we made a fire on the point of the

island, in hopes, if they saw the smoke, they might be induced to come to

us.

Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the morning, two canoes

were seen coming down the sound; but as soon as they perceived the ship,

they retired behind a point on the west side. After breakfast I went in a

boat to look for them; and as we proceeded along the shore, we shot several

birds. The report of the muskets gave notice of our approach, and the

natives discovered themselves in Shag Cove by hallooing to us; but as we

drew near to their habitations, they all fled to the woods, except two or

three men, who stood on a rising ground near the shore, with their arms in

their hands. The moment we landed, they knew us. Joy then took place of

fear; and the rest of the natives hurried out of the woods, and embraced us

over and over again; leaping and skipping about like madmen, but I observed

that they would not suffer some women, whom we saw at a distance, to come

near us. After we had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and what else

we had with us, they gave us in return a large quantity of fish, which they

had just caught. There were only a few amongst them whose faces we could

recognise, and on our asking why they were afraid of us, and enquiring for

some of our old acquaintances by name, they talked much about killing,

which was so variously understood by us, that we could gather nothing from

it, so that, after a short stay, we took leave, and went on board.[3]

Next morning early, our friends, according to a promise they had made us

the preceding evening, paying us a visit, brought with them a quantity of

fine fish, which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. and then returned

to their habitations.

On the 26th, we got into the after-hold four boat-load of shingle ballast,

and struck down six guns, keeping only six on deck. Our good friends the

natives, having brought us a plentiful supply of fish, afterwards went on

shore to the tents, and informed our people there, that a ship like ours

had been lately lost in the strait; that some of the people got on shore;

and that the natives stole their clothes, &c. for which several were shot;

and afterwards, when they could fire no longer, the natives having got the

better, killed them with their patapatoos, and eat them, but that they

themselves had no hand in the affair, which, they said, happened at Vanna

Aroa, near Terrawhitte, on the other side of the strait. One man said it

was two moons ago: But another contradicted him, and counted on his fingers

about twenty or thirty days. They described by actions how the ship was

beat to pieces by going up and down against the rocks, till at last it was

all scattered abroad.

The next day some others told the same story, or nearly to the same

purport, and pointed over the east bay, which is on the east side of the

sound, as to the place where it happened. These stories making me very

uneasy about the Adventure, I desired Mr Wales, and those on shore, to let

me know if any of the natives should mention it again, or to send them to

me; for I had not heard any thing from them myself. When Mr Wales came on

board to dinner he found the very people who had told him the story on

shore, and pointed them out to me. I enquired about the affair, and

endeavoured to come at the truth by every method I could think of. All I

could get from them was, "Caurey," (no); and they not only denied every

syllable of what they had said on shore, but seemed wholly ignorant of the

matter; so that I began to think our people had misunderstood them, and

that the story referred to some of their own people and boats.[4]

On the 28th, fresh gales westerly, and fair weather. We rigged and fitted

the top-masts. Having gone on a shooting-party to West Bay, we went to the

place where I left the hogs and fowls; but saw no vestiges of them, nor of

any body having been there since. In our return, having visited the

natives, we got some fish in exchange for trifles which we gave them. As we

were coming away, Mr Forster thought be heard the squeaking of a pig in the

woods, close by their habitations; probably they may have those I left with

them when last here. In the evening we got on board, with about a dozen and

a half of wild fowl, shags, and sea-pies. The sportsmen who had been out in

the woods near the ship were more successful among the small birds.

On the 29th and 30th nothing remarkable happened, except that in the

evening of the latter all the natives left us.

The 31st being a fine pleasant day, our botanists went over to Long Island,

where one of the party saw a large black boar. As it was described to me, I

thought it might be one of those which Captain Furneaux left behind, and

had been brought over to this isle by those who had it in keeping. Since

they did not destroy those hogs when first in their possession, we cannot

suppose they will do it now; so that there is little fear but that this

country will in time be stocked with these animals, both in a wild and

domestic state.

Next day we were visited by a number of strangers who came up from the

sound, and brought with them but little fish. Their chief commodity was

green stone or talc, an article which never came to a bad market; and some

of the largest pieces of it I had ever seen were got this day.

On the 2d I went over to the east side of the sound, and, without meeting

any thing remarkable, returned on board in the evening, when I learnt that

the same people who visited us the preceding day, had been on board most of

this, with their usual article of trade.

On the 3d, Mr Pickersgill met with some of the natives, who related to him

the story of a ship being lost, and the people being killed; but added,

with great earnestness, it was not done by them.

On the 4th, fine pleasant weather. Most of the natives now retired up the

sound. Indeed, I had taken every gentle method, to oblige them to be gone,

for since these newcomers had been with us, our old friends had

disappeared, and we had been without fish. Having gone over to Long Island,

to look for the hog which had been seen there, I found it to be one of the

sows left by Captain Furneaux; the same that was in the possession of the

natives when we were last here. From the supposition of its being a boar, I

had carried over a sow to leave with him; but on seeing my mistake, brought

her back, as the leaving her there would answer no end.

Early in the morning of the 5th, our old friends made us a visit, and

brought a seasonable supply of fish. At the same time I embarked in the

pinnace, with Messrs Forsters and Sparrman, in order to proceed up the

sound. I was desirous of finding the termination of it; or rather of seeing

if I could find any passage out to sea by the S.E., as I suspected from

some discoveries I had made when first here. In our way up, we met with

some fishers, of whom we made the necessary enquiry; and they all agreed

that there was no passage to the sea by the head of the sound. As we

proceeded, we, some time after, met a canoe conducted by four men coming

down the sound. These confirmed what the others had said, in regard to

there being no passage to the sea the way we were going; but gave us to

understand that there was one to the east, in the very place where I

expected to find it. I now laid aside the scheme of going to the head of

the sound, and proceeded to this arm, which is on the S.E. side, about four

or five leagues above the isle of Motuara.

A little within the entrance on the S.E. side, at a place called

Kotieghenooee, we found a large settlement of the natives., The chief,

whose name was Tringo-boohee, and his people, whom we found to be some of

those who had lately been on board the ship, received us with great

courtesy. They seemed to be pretty numerous both here and in the

neighbourhood. Our stay with them was short, as the information they gave

us encouraged us to pursue the object we had in view.[5] Accordingly, we

proceeded down the arm E.N.E. and E. by N., leaving several fine coves on

both sides, and at last found it to open into the strait by a channel about

a mile wide, in which ran out a strong tide; having also observed one

setting down the arm, all the time we had been in it. It was now about four

o'clock in the afternoon, and in less than an hour after, this tide ceased,

and was succeeded by the flood, which came in with equal strength.

The outlet lies S.E. by E. and N.W. by W. and nearly in the direction of

E.S.E. and W.N.W. from Cape Terrawhitte. We found thirteen fathoms water a

little within the entrance, clear ground. It seemed to me that a leading

wind was necessary to go in and out of this passage, on account of the

rapidity of the tides. I, however, had but little time to make observations

of this nature, as night was at hand, and I had resolved to return on

board. On that account I omitted visiting a large _hippa_, or strong-

hold, built on an elevation on the north side, and about a mile or two

within the entrance, The inhabitants of it, by signs, invited us to go to

them; but, without paying any regard to them, we proceeded directly for the

ship, which we reached by ten o'clock, bringing with us some fish we had

got from the natives, and a few birds we had shot. Amongst the latter were

some of the same kinds of ducks we found in Dusky Bay, and we have reason

to believe that they are all to be met with here. For the natives knew them

all by the drawings, and had a particular name for each.

On the 6th, wind at N.E., gloomy weather with rain. Our old friends having

taken up their abode near us, one of them, whose name was Pedero, (a man of

some note,) made me a present of a staff of honour, such as the chiefs

generally carry. In return, I dressed him in a suit of old clothes, of

which he was not a little proud. He had a fine person, and a good presence,

and nothing but his colour distinguished him from an European. Having got

him, and another, into a communicative mood, we began to enquire of them if

the Adventure had been there during my absence; and they gave us to

understand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt, that, soon after we

were gone, she arrived; that she staid between ten and twenty days, and had

been gone ten months. They likewise asserted that neither she, nor any

other ship, had been stranded on the coast, as had been reported. This

assertion, and the manner in which they related the coming and going of the

Adventure, made me easy about her; but did not wholly set aside our

suspicions of a disaster having happened to some other strangers. Besides

what has been already related, we had been told that a ship had lately been

here, and was gone to a place called Terato, which is on the north side of

the strait. Whether this story related to the former or no, I cannot say.

Whenever I questioned the natives about it, they always denied all

knowledge of it, and for some time past, had avoided mentioning it. It was

but a few days before, that one man received a box on the ear for naming it

to some of our people.

After breakfast I took a number of hands over to Long Island, in order to

catch the sow, to put her to the boar and remove her to some other place;

but we returned without seeing her. Some of the natives had been there not

long before us, as their fires were yet burning; and they had undoubtedly

taken her away. Pedero dined with us, eat of every thing at table, and

drank more wine than any one of us, without being in the least affected by

it.

The 7th, fresh gales at N.E. with continual rain.

The 8th, fore-part rain, remainder fair weather. We put two pigs, a boar,

and a sow, on shore, in the cove next without Cannibal Cove; so that it is

hardly possible all the methods I have taken to stock this country with

these animals should fail. We had also reason to believe that some of the

cocks and hens which I left here still existed, although we had not seen

any of them; for an hen's egg was, some days before, found in the woods

almost new laid.

On the 9th, wind westerly or N.W., squally with rain. In the morning we

unmoored, and shifted our birth farther out of the cove, for the more ready

getting to sea the next morning; for at present the caulkers had not

finished the sides, and till this work was done we could not sail. Our

friends having brought us a very large and seasonable supply of fish, I

bestowed on Pedero a present of an empty oil-jar, which made him as happy

as a prince. Soon after, he and his party left the cove, and retired to

their proper place of abode, with all the treasure they had received from

us. I believe that they gave away many of the things they, at different

times, got from us, to their friends and neighbours, or else parted with

them to purchase peace of their more powerful enemies; for we never saw any

of our presents after they were once in their possession: And every time we

visited them they were as much in want of hatchets, nails, &c. to all

appearance, as if they never had had any among them.

I am satisfied that the people in this sound, who are, upon the whole,

pretty numerous, are under no regular form of government, or so united as

to form one body politic. The head of each tribe, or family, seems to be

respected; and that respect may, on some occasions, command obedience; but

I doubt if any amongst them have either a right or power to enforce it. The

day we were with Tringo-boohee, the people came from all parts to see us,

which he endeavoured to prevent. But though he went so far as to throw

stones at some, I observed that very few paid any regard either to his

words or actions; and yet this man was spoken of as a chief of some note. I

have, before, made some remarks on the evils attending these people for

want of union among themselves; and the more I was acquainted with them,

the more I found it to be so. Notwithstanding they are cannibals, they are

naturally of a good disposition, and have not a little humanity.

In the afternoon a party of us went ashore into one of the coves, where

were two families of the natives variously employed; some sleeping, some

making mats, others roasting fish and fir roots, and one girl, I observed,

was heating of stones. Curious to know what they were for, I remained near

her. As soon as the stones were made hot, she took them out of the fire,

and gave them to an old woman, who was sitting in the hut. She placed them

in a heap, laid over them a handful of green celery, and over that a coarse

mat, and then squatted herself down, on her heels, on the top of all; thus

making a kind of Dutch warming-pan, on which she sat as close as a hare on

her seat. I should hardly have mentioned this operation, if I had thought

it had no other view than to warm the old woman's backside. I rather

suppose it was intended to cure some disorder she might have on her, which

the steams arising from the green celery might be a specific for. I was led

to think so by there being hardly any celery in the place, we having

gathered it long before; and grass, of which there was great plenty, would

have kept the stones from burning the mat full as well, if that had been

all that was meant. Besides, the woman looked to me sickly, and not in a

good state of health.

Mr Wales, from time to time, communicated to me the observations he had

made in this Sound for determining the longitude, the mean results of which

give 174° 25' 7" 1/2 east, for the bottom of Ship Cove, where the

observations were made; and the latitude of it is 41° 5' 50" 1/2 south. In

my chart, constituted in my former voyage, this place is laid down in 184°

54' 30" west, equal to 175° 5' 30" east. The error of the chart is

therefore 0° 40' 0", and nearly equal to what was found at Dusky Bay; by

which it appears that the whole of Tavai-poenamoo is laid down 40' too far

east in the said chart, as well as in the journal of the voyage. But the

error in Eaheino-mauwe, is not more than half a degree, or thirty minutes;

because the distance between. Queen Charlotte's Sound and Cape Palliser has

been found to be greater by 10' of longitude than it is laid down in the

chart. I mention these errors, not from a fear that they will affect either

navigation or geography, but because I have no doubt of their existence;

for, from the multitude of observations which Mr Wales took, the situation

of few parts of the world is better ascertained than Queen Charlotte's

Sound. Indeed, I might, with equal truth, say the same of all the other

places where we made any stay; for Mr Wales, whose abilities are equal to

his assiduity, lost no one observation that could possibly be obtained.

Even the situation of those islands, which we passed without touching at

them, is, by means of Kendal's watch, determined with almost equal

accuracy. The error of the watch from Otaheite to this place was only 43'

39" 1/2 in longitude, reckoning at the rate it was found to go at, at that

island and at Tanna; but by reckoning at the rate it was going when last at

Queen Charlotte's Sound, and from the time of our leaving it, to our return

to it again, which was near a year, the error was 19' 31", 25 in time, or

4° 52' 48" 1/4 in longitude. This error cannot be thought great, if we

consider the length of time, and that we had gone over a space equal to

upwards of three-fourths of the equatorial circumference of the earth, and

through all the climates and latitudes from 9° to 71°. Mr Wales found its

rate of going here to be that of gaining 12",576, on mean time, per day.

The mean result of all the observations he made for ascertaining the

variation of the compass and the dip of the south end of the needle, the

three several times we had been here, gave 14° 9' 1/5 east for the former;

and 64° 36" 2/3 for the latter. He also found, from very accurate

observations, that the time of high-water preceded the moon's southing, on

the full and change days, by three hours; and that the greatest rise and

fall of the water was five feet ten inches, and a half; but there were

evident tokens on the beach, of its having risen two feet higher than ever

it did in the course of his experiments.

[1] According to Mr G.F. the sufferings of the crew, for want of

proper nourishment, were exceedingly distressing, and some of the

officers who had made several voyages round the world acknowledged,

that they had never before so thoroughly loathed a salt diet. It was

owing, he says, to their having such an excellent preservative as

sour-krout on board, that the scurvy did not at this time make any

considerable progress among them; but their situation was indeed

wretched enough, without the horrors of that disease.--E.

[2] "Several large broken rocks project into the sea from the island,

on all sides. A heap of large stones formed a kind of beach, beyond

which the shore rose very steep, and in some parts perpendicular. The

rocks of this island consisted of the common yellowish clayey stone,

which we found at New Zealand; and in some places we met with small

bits of porous reddish lava, which seemed to be decaying, but made us

suspect this island to have had a volcano. The vegetables which we

found upon it, throve with great luxuriance in a rich stratum of black

mould, accumulated during ages past, from decaying trees and plants.

The greatest number of species we met with were well known to us, as

belonging to the flora of New Zealand, but this appeared with all the

advantages which a milder climate, and an exuberant soil could give

them, and they were united with the productions of New Caledonia, and

the New Hebrides. Altogether this little deserted spot was very

pleasing, and were it larger would be unexceptionable for an European

settlement."--G.F.

Notwithstanding the diminutive size of this island, the advantages it

presented, especially as to the cultivation of the flax-plant, were

sufficient to induce the British government to erect a settlement on

it, which was effected by a detachment from Port Jackson under the

command of Lieutenant King in 1788. The reader who desires particular

information respecting its progress, will be amply supplied with it in

Collins's account of New South Wales. It may perhaps be sufficient to

inform him, that though in 1790 the colony consisted of 498 persons,

and in 1796, of 889, and though very great expence and pains were

employed to ensure its prosperity, yet every year's experience proved

that the expectations entertained of its importance and benefits were

vastly over-rated, and in consequence it was at last abandoned. In the

opinion of Collins, Van Diemen's island presents in every respect a

more advantageous spot for a settlement.--E.

[3] "They continued from time to time to ask if we were displeased

with them, and seemed to be very apprehensive that our present

protestations of friendship were not quite sincere. We suspected from

this circumstance, that a fatal misunderstanding had happened between

the natives and the crew of some European ship, and we naturally

thought of our consort the Adventure."--G.F.

[4] The natives were repeatedly questioned, and in every conversation

we discovered some additional circumstances, by which the fact was

more clearly established. At last, however, observing that our

enquiries on this subject were frequently repeated, they resolved to

give us no further trouble, and by threats stopped short one of their

own brethren, who had been prevailed upon to speak once more on the

subject. Captain Cook being very desirous of obtaining some certainty

concerning the fate of the Adventure, called Peeterre and another

native into the cabin, both of whom denied that any harm had been done

to the Europeans. We made two pieces of paper, to represent the two

ships, and drew the figure of the sound on a larger piece; then

drawing the two ships into the sound, and out of it again, as often as

they had touched at and left it, including our last departure, we

stopped a while, and at last proceeded to bring our ship in again: But

the natives interrupted us, and taking up the paper which represented

the Adventure, they brought it into the harbour, and drew it out

again, counting on their fingers how many moons she had been gone.

This circumstance gave us two-fold pleasure, since, at the same time

that we were persuaded our consort had safely sailed from hence, we

had to admire the sagacity of the natives. Still, however, there was

something mysterious in the former accounts, which intimated that some

Europeans were killed; and we continued to doubt whether we had

rightly understood this part of their conversation, till we received

more certain intelligence at our return to the Cape of Good Hope."--

G.F.

[5] The reader will think the following incident and remark worthy of

being preserved; "After staying here about a quarter of an hour,

Captain Cook re-embarked with us, which was the more advisable, as

many of the natives, who arrived last, brought their arms, and the

whole crowd now amounted to two hundred and upwards, a much greater

number than we had suspected the sound to contain, or had ever seen

together. We had already put off, when a sailor acquainted the

captain, that he had bought a bundle of fish from one of the natives,

for which he had not paid him. Captain Cook took the last nail which

was left, and calling to the native, threw it on the beach at his

feet. The savage being offended, or thinking himself attacked, picked

up a stone, and threw it into the boat with great force, but luckily

without hitting any one of us. We now called to him again, and pointed

to the nail which we had thrown towards him. As soon as he had seen

it, and picked it up, he laughed at his own petulance, and seemed

highly pleased with our conduct towards him. This circumstance, with a

little rashness on our part, might have become very fatal to us, or

might at least have involved us in a dangerous quarrel. If we had

resented the affront of being pelted with a stone, the whole body

would have joined in the cause of their countryman, and we must have

fallen an easy prey to their numbers, being at the distance of five or

six leagues from the ship, without any hopes of assistance."--G.F.

CHAPTER IV.

FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND.

SECTION I.

_The Run from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego, with the Range from Cape

Deseada to Christmas Sound, and Description of that Part of the Coast._

At day-break on the 10th, with a fine breeze at W.N.W., we weighed and

stood out of the Sound; and, after getting round the Two Brothers, steered

for Cape Campbell, which is at the S.W. entrance of the Strait, all sails

set, with a fine breeze at north. At four in the afternoon, we passed the

Cape, at the distance of four or five leagues, and then steered S.S.E. 1/2

E. with the wind at N.W., a gentle gale, and cloudy weather.

Next morning the wind veered round by the west to south, and forced us more

to the east than I intended. At seven o'clock in the evening, the snowy

mountains bore W. by S., and Cape Palliser N. 1/2 W., distant sixteen or

seventeen leagues; from which cape I, for the third time, took my

departure. After a few hours calm, a breeze springing up at north, we

steered S. by E. all sails set, with a view of getting into the latitude of

54° or 55°; my intention being to cross this vast ocean nearly in these

parallels, and so as to pass over those parts which were left unexplored

the preceding summer.

In the morning of the 12th, the wind increased to a fine gale: At noon we

observed in latitude 43° 13' 30" S., longitude 176° 41' E.; an

extraordinary fish of the whale kind was seen, which some called a sea

monster. I did not see it myself. In the afternoon, our old companions the

pintado peterels began to appear.[1]

On the 13th, in the morning, the wind veered to W.S.W. At seven, seeing the

appearance of land to S.W., we hauled up towards it, and soon found it to

be a fog-bank. Afterwards we steered S.E. by S., and soon after saw a seal.

At noon, latitude, by account, 44° 25', longitude 177° 31' E. Foggy

weather, which continued all the afternoon. At six in the evening, the wind

veered to N.E. by N., and increased to a fresh gale, attended with thick

hazy weather; course steered S.E. 1/4 S.

On the 14th, a.m. saw another seal. At noon, latitude 45° 54', longitude

179° 29' E.

On the 15th, a.m. the wind veered to the westward; the fog cleared away,

but the weather continued cloudy. At noon, latitude 47° 30', longitude 178°

19' W.; for, having passed the meridian of 180° E., I now reckon my

longitude west of the first meridian, viz. Greenwich. In the evening heard

penguins, and the next morning saw some sea or rock weed. At noon a fresh

gale from the west and fine weather. Latitude observed 49° 33', longitude

175° 31' W.

Next morning fresh gales and hazy weather; saw a seal and several pieces of

weed. At noon, latitude 51° 12', longitude 173° 17' W. The wind veered to

the N. and N.E. by N., blew a strong gale by squalls, which split an old

topgallant sail, and obliged us to double-reef the top-sails; but in the

evening the wind moderated, and veered to W.N.W., when we loosed a reef out

of each top-sail; and found the variation of the compass to be 9° 52' E.,

being then in the latitude 51° 47', longitude 172° 21' W., and the next

morning, the 18th, in the latitude of 52° 25', longitude 170° 45' W., it

was 10° 26' E. Towards noon, had moderate but cloudy weather, and a great

swell from the west: Some penguins and pieces of sea-weed seen.

On the 19th, steered E.S.E, with a very fresh gale at north, hazy dirty

weather. At noon, latitude 53° 43', longitude 166° 15' W.

On the 20th, steered E. by S., with a moderate breeze at north, attended

with thick hazy weather. At noon, latitude 54° 8', longitude 162° 18' W.

On the 21st, winds mostly from the N.E., a fresh gale attended with thick,

hazy, dirty weather. Course S.E. by S.; latitude, at noon, 55° 31',

longitude 160° 29'; abundance of blue peterels and some penguins seen.

Fresh gales at N.W. by N. and N. by W., and hazy till towards noon of the

22d, when the weather cleared up, and we observed in latitude 55° 48' S.,

longitude 156° 56' W. In the afternoon had a few hours calm; after that,

the wind came at S.S.E. and S.E. by S. a light breeze, with which we

steered east northerly. In the night the aurora australis was visible, but

very faint, and no ways remarkable.

On the 23d, in the latitude of 55° 46' S., longitude 156° 13' W., the

variation was 9° 42' E. We had a calm from ten in the morning till six in

the evening, when a breeze sprung up at west; at first it blew a gentle

gale, but afterwards freshened. Our course was now E. 1/2 N.

On the 24th, a fresh breeze at N.W. by W. and N. by W. At noon, in latitude

55° 38' S., longitude 153° 37' W., foggy in the night, but next day had a

fine gale at N.W., attended with clear pleasant weather; course steered E.

by N. In the evening, being in the latitude of 55° 8' S., longitude 148°

10' W., the variation, by the mean of two compasses, was 6° 35' E.

Having a steady fresh gale at N.N.W. on the 26th and 27th, we steered east;

and at noon on the latter were in latitude 55° 6' S., longitude 138° 56' W.

I now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean, and came to

a resolution to steer directly for the west entrance of the Straits of

Magalhaeus, with a view of coasting the out, or south side of Terra del

Fuego round Cape Horn to the strait Le Maire. As the world has but a very

imperfect knowledge of this shore, I thought the coasting of it would be of

more advantage, both to navigation and to geography, than any thing I could

expect to find in a higher latitude. In the afternoon of this day, the wind

blew in squalls, and carried away the main top-gallant mast.

A very strong gale northerly, with hazy rainy weather, on the 28th, obliged

us to double-reef the fore and main top-sail to hand the mizen top-sail,

and get down the fore top-gallant yard. In the morning, the bolt rope of

the main top-sail broke, and occasioned the sail to be split. I have

observed that the ropes to all our sails, the square sails especially, are

not of a size and strength sufficient to wear out the canvass. At noon,

latitude 55° 20' S., longitude 134° 16' W., a great swell from N.W.:

Albatrosses and blue peterels seen.

Next day towards noon, the wind abating, we loosed all the reefs out of the

top-sails, rigged another top-gallant mast, and got the yards across. P.M.

little wind, and hazy weather; at midnight calm, that continued till noon

the next day, when a breeze sprung up at east, with which we stretched to

the northward. At this time we were in the latitude 55° 32' S., longitude

128° 45' W.; some albatrosses and peterels seen. At eight, p.m., the wind

veering to N.E., we tacked and stood to E.S.E.

On the 1st of December, thick hazy weather, with drizzling rain, and a

moderate breeze of wind, which, at three o'clock p.m. fell to a calm; at

this time in latitude 55° 41' S., longitude 127° 5' W. After four hours

calm, the fog cleared away, and we got a wind at S.E. with which we stood

N.E.

Next day, a fresh breeze at S.E. and hazy foggy weather, except a few hours

in the morning, when we found the variation to be 1° 28' E. Latitude 55°

17', longitude 125° 41' W. The variation after this was supposed to

increase; for on the 4th, in the morning, being in latitude 53° 31',

longitude 121° 31' W., it was 3° 16' E.; in the evening, in latitude 53°

13', longitude 119° 46' W., it was 3° 28' E.; and on the 5th, at six

o'clock in the evening, in latitude 53° 8', longitude 115° 58' W., it was

4° 1' E.

For more than twenty-four hours, having had a fine gale at south, this

enabled us to steer east, with very little deviation to the north; and the

wind now altering to S.W. and blowing a steady fresh breeze, we continued

to steer east, inclining a little to south.

On the 6th, had some snow-showers. In the evening, being in latitude 53°

13', longitude 111° 12', the variation was 4° 58' E.; and the next morning,

being in latitude 58° 16', longitude 109° 33', it was 5° 1' E.

The wind was now at west, a fine pleasant gale, sometimes with showers of

rain. Nothing remarkable happened, till the 9th, at noon, when being in the

latitude of 53° 37', longitude 103° 44' W., the wind veered to N.E., and

afterwards came insensibly round to the south, by the E. and S.E., attended

with cloudy hazy weather, and some showers of rain.

On the 10th, a little before noon, latitude 54°, longitude 102° 7' west,

passed a small bed of sea-weed. In the afternoon the wind veered to S.W.,

blew a fresh gale, attended with dark cloudy weather. We steered east half

a point north; and the next day, at six in the evening, being in latitude

53° 35', longitude 95° 52' west, the variation was 9° 58' east. Many and

various sorts of albatrosses about the ship.

On the 12th, the wind veered to the west, N.W.; and in the evening to

north; and, at last, left us to a calm; that continued till midnight, when

we got a breeze at south; which, soon after, veering to, and fixing at,

west, we steered east; and on the 14th, in the morning, found the variation

to be 13° 25' east, latitude 53° 25', longitude 87° 53' west; and in the

afternoon, being in the same latitude, and the longitude of 86° 2' west, it

was 15° 3' east, and increased in such a manner, that on the 15th, in the

latitude of 53° 30', longitude 82° 23' west, it was 17° east; and the next

evening, in the latitude of 53° 25', longitude 78° 40', it was 17° 38'

east. About this time, we saw a penguin and a piece of weed; and the next

morning, a seal and some diving peterels. For the three last days, the wind

had been at west, a steady fresh gale, attended, now and then, with showers

of rain or hail.

At six in the morning of the 17th, being nearly in the same latitude as

above, and in the longitude of 77° 10' west, the variation was 18° 33'

east; and in the afternoon it was 21° 38, being at that time in latitude

53° 16' S., longitude 75° 9' west. In the morning, as well as in the

afternoon, I took some observations to determine the longitude by the

watch; and the results, reduced to noon, gave 76° 18' 30" west. At the same

time, the longitude, by my reckoning, was 76° 17' west. But I have reason

to think, that we were about half a degree more to the west than either the

one or the other; our latitude, at the same time, was 53° 21' S.

We steered E. by N. and E. 1/2 N. all this day, under all the sail we could

carry, with a fine fresh gale at N.W. by W. in expectation of seeing the

land before night; but not making it till ten o'clock, we took in the

studding-sails, top-gallant sails, and a reef in each top-sail, and steered

E.N.E., in order to make sure of falling in with Cape Deseada.

Two hours after, we made the land, extending from N.E. by N. to E. by S.

about six leagues distant. On this discovery, we wore and brought-to, with

the ship's head to the south; and having sounded, found seventy-five

fathoms water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now before us could be

no other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west entrance

to the Straits of Magalhaens.

As this was the first run that had been made directly across this ocean, in

a high southern latitude,[2] I have been a little particular in noting

every circumstance that appeared in the least material: and, after all, I

must observe, that I never made a passage any where of such length, or even

much shorter, where so few interesting circumstances occurred. For, if I

except the variation of the compass, I know of nothing else worth notice.

The weather had been neither unusually stormy nor cold. Before we arrived

in the latitude of 50°, the mercury in the thermometer fell gradually from

sixty to fifty; and after we arrived in the latitude of 55°, it was

generally between forty-seven and forty-five; once or twice it fell to

forty-three. These observations were made at noon.

I have now done with the southern Pacific Ocean; and flatter myself that no

one will think that I have left it unexplored; or that more could have been

done, in one voyage, towards obtaining that end, than has been done in

this.

Soon after we left New Zealand, Mr Wales contrived, and fixed up, an

instrument, which very accurately measured the angle the ship rolled, when

sailing large and in a great sea; and that in which she lay down, when

sailing upon a wind. The greatest angle he observed her to roll was 38°.

This was on the 6th of this month, when the sea was not unusually high; so

that it cannot be reckoned the greatest roll she had made. The most he

observed her to heel or lie down, when sailing upon a wind, was 18°; and

this was under double-reefed top-sails and courses.

On the 18th, at three in the morning, we sounded again, and found one

hundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. We now made sail with a

fresh gale at N.W., and steered S.E. by E. along the coast. It extended

from Cape Deseada, which bore north 7° east, to E S.E.; a pretty high

ragged isle, which lies near a league from the main, and S., 18° E. six

leagues E. from Cape Deseada, bore N. 49° E. distant four leagues; and it

obtained the name of Landfall. At four o'clock, we were north and south of

the high land of Cape Deseada, distant about nine leagues; so that we saw

none of the low rocks said to lie off it. The latitude of this Cape is

about 53° S., longitude 74° 40' west.

Continuing to range the coast, at about two leagues distance, at eleven

o'clock we passed a projecting point, which I called Cape Gloucester. It

shews a round surface of considerable height, and has much the appearance

of being an island. It lies S.S.E. 1/2 E. distant seventeen leagues from

the isle of Landfall. The coast between them forms two bays, strewed with

rocky islets, rocks, and breakers. The coast appeared very broken with many

inlets; or rather it seemed to be composed of a number of islands. The land

is very mountainous, rocky, and barren, spotted here and there with tufts

of wood, and patches of snow. At noon Cape Gloucester bore north, distant

eight miles, and the most advanced point of land to the S.E., which we

judged to be Cape Noir, bore S.E. by S., distant seven or eight leagues.

Latitude observed 54° 13' S. Longitude, made from Cape Deseada, 54' E. From

Cape Gloucester, off which lies a small rocky island, the direction of the

coast is nearly S.E.; but to Cape Noir, for which we steered, the course is

S.S.E., distant about ten leagues.

At three o'clock we passed Cape Noir, which is a steep rock of considerable

height, and the S.W. point of a large island that seemed to lie detached, a

league, or a league and a half, from the main land. The land of the cape,

when at a distance from it, appeared to be an island disjoined from the

other; but, on a nearer approach, we found it connected by a low neck of

land. At the point of the cape are two rocks; the one peaked like a sugar-

loaf, the other not so high, and shewing a rounder surface; and S. by E.,

two leagues from the cape, are two other rocky islets. This cape is

situated in the latitude of 54° 30' S., longitude 73° 33' W.

After passing the two islets, we steered E.S.E., crossing the great bay of

St Barbara. We but just saw the land in the bottom of it, which could not

be less than seven or eight leagues from us. There was a space, lying in

the direction of E.N.E. from Cape Noir, where no land was to be seen: this

may be the channel of St Barbara, which opens into the straits of

Magalhaens, as mentioned by Frezier. We found the cape to agree very well

with his description, which shews that he laid down the channel from good

memoirs. At ten o'clock, drawing near the S.E. point of the bay, which,

lies nearly in the direction of S. 60° E. from Cape Noir, eighteen leagues

distant, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on.

At two o'clock in the morning of the 19th, having made sail, we steered

S.E. by E. along the coast, and soon passed the S.E. point of the bay of St

Barbara, which I called Cape Desolation, because near it commenced the most

desolate and barren country I ever saw. It is situated in the latitude of

54° 55' S., longitude 72° 12' W. About four leagues to the east of this

cape is a deep inlet, at the entrance of which lies a pretty large island,

and some others of less note. Nearly in this situation some charts place a

channel leading into the straits of Magalhaens, under the name of straits

of Jelouzel. At ten o'clock, being about a league and a half from the land,

we sounded, and found sixty fathoms water, a bottom of small stones and

shells.

The wind, which had been fresh at N. by W., began to abate, and at noon it

fell calm, when we observed in latitude 55° 20' S., longitude made from

Cape Deseada 3° 24' E. In this situation we were about three leagues from

the nearest shore, which was that of an island. This I named Gilbert Isle,

after my master. It is nearly of the same height with the rest of the

coast, and shews a surface composed of several peaked rocks unequally high.

A little to the S.E. of it are some smaller islands, and, without them,

breakers.

I have before observed that this is the most desolate coast I ever saw. It

seems entirely composed of rocky mountains without the least appearance of

vegetation. These mountains terminate in horrible precipices, whose craggy

summits spire up to a vast height, so that hardly any thing in nature can

appear with a more barren and savage aspect than the whole of this country.

The inland mountains were covered with snow, but those on the sea-coast

were not. We judged the former to belong to the main of Terra del Fuego,

and the latter to be islands, so ranged as apparently to form a coast.

After three hours calm we got a breeze at S.E. by E., and having made a

short trip to south, stood in for the land; the most advanced point of

which, that we had in sight, bore east, distant ten leagues. This is a

lofty promontory, lying E.S.E, nineteen leagues from Gilbert isle, and

situated in latitude 55° 26' S, longitude 70° 25' W. Viewed from the

situation we now were in, it terminated in two high towers; and, within

them, a hill shaped like a sugar-loaf. This wild rock, therefore, obtained

the name of York Minster. Two leagues to the westward of this head appeared

a large inlet, the west point of which we fetched in with by nine o'clock,

when we tacked in forty-one fathoms water, half a league from the shore; to

the westward of this inlet was another, with several islands lying in the

entrance.

During the night between the 19th and 20th we had little wind easterly,

which in the morning veered to N.E. and N.N.E., but it was too faint to be

of use; and at ten we had a calm, when we observed the ship to drive from

off the shore out to sea. We had made the same observation the day before.

This must have been occasioned by a current; and the melting of the snow

increasing, the inland waters will cause a stream to run out of most of

these inlets. At noon we observed in latitude 55° 39' 30" S., York Minster

then bearing N. 15° E., distant five leagues; and Round-hill, just peeping

above the horizon, which we judged to belong to the isles of St Ildefonso,

E. 25° S., ten or eleven leagues distant. At ten o'clock, a breeze

springing up at E. by S., I took this opportunity to stand in for the land,

being desirous of going into one of the many ports which seemed open to

receive us, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit our

stock of wood and water.

In standing in for an opening, which appeared on the east side of York

Minster, we had forty, thirty-seven, fifty, and sixty fathoms water, a

bottom of small stones and shells. When we had the last soundings, we were

nearly in the middle between the two points that form the entrance to the

inlet, which we observed to branch into two arms, both of them lying in

nearly north, and disjoined by an high rocky point. We stood for the

eastern branch as being clear of islets; and after passing a black rocky

one, lying without the point just mentioned, we sounded, and found no

bottom with a line of an hundred and seventy fathoms. This was altogether

unexpected, and a circumstance that would not have been regarded if the

breeze had continued; but at this time it fell calm, so that it was not

possible to extricate ourselves from this disagreeable situation. Two boats

were hoisted out, and sent a-head to tow; but they would have availed

little, had not a breeze sprung up about eight o'clock at S.W., which put

it in my power either to stand out to sea, or up the inlet. Prudence seemed

to point out the former, but the desire of finding a good port, and of

learning something of the country, getting the better of every other

consideration, I resolved to stand in; and, as night was approaching, our

safety depended on getting to an anchor. With this view we continued to

sound, but always had an unfathomable depth.

Hauling up under the east side of the land which divided the two arms, and

seeing a small cove ahead, I sent a boat to sound; and we kept as near the

shore as the flurries from the land would permit, in order to be able to

get into this place, if there should be anchorage. The boat soon returned,

and informed us that there was thirty and twenty-five fathoms water, a full

cable's length from the shore; here we anchored in thirty fathoms, the

bottom sand and broken shells; and carried out a kedge and hawser to steady

the ship for the night.

[1] Mr. G.F. describes this whale as being about twelve yards long,

having an oblong blunt head, on which there were two longitudinal

furrows, and as many upright ridges. It had small eyes, two semi-lunar

apertures, from whence it occasionally spouted the water, and it was

mottled all over with white spots. It had two large fins behind the

head, but none on the back. In his opinion this extraordinary creature

was entirely unknown before.--E.

[2] It is not to be supposed that I could know at this time, that the

Adventure had made the passage before me.

SECTION II.

_Transactions in Christmas Sound, with an Account of the Country and its

Inhabitants._

The morning of the 21st was calm and pleasant. After breakfast I set out

with two boats to look for a more secure station. We no sooner got round,

or above the point, under which the ship lay, than we found a cove in which

was anchorage in thirty, twenty, and fifteen fathoms, the bottom stones and

sand. At the head of the cove was a stony beach, a valley covered with

wood, and a stream of fresh water, so that there was every thing we could

expect to find in such a place, or rather more; for we shot three geese out

of four that we saw, and caught some young ones, which we afterwards let

go.

After discovering and sounding this cove, I sent Lieutenant Clerke, who

commanded the other boat, on board, with orders to remove the ship into

this place, while I proceeded farther up the inlet. I presently saw that

the land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned before,

was an island, at the north end of which the two channels united. After

this I hastened on board, and found every thing in readiness to weigh,

which was accordingly done, and all the boats sent ahead to tow the ship

round the point. But at that moment a light breeze came in from the sea too

scant to fill our sails, so that we were obliged to drop the anchor again,

for fear of falling upon the point, and to carry out a kedge to windward.

That being done, we hove up the anchor, warped up to, and weighed the

kedge, and proceeding round the point under our stay-sails; there anchored

with the best bower in twenty fathoms; and moored with the other bower,

which lay to the north, in thirteen fathoms. In this position we were shut

in from the sea by the point above-mentioned, which was in one with the

extremity of the inlet to the east. Some islets, off the next point above

us, covered us from the N.W., from which quarter the wind had the greatest

fetch, and our distance from the shore was about one-third of a mile.

Thus situated we went to work, to clear a place to fill water, to cut wood,

and to set up a tent for the reception of a guard, which was thought

necessary, as we had already discovered that, barren as this country is, it

was not without people, though we had not yet seen any. Mr Wales also got

his observatory and instruments on shore; but it was with the greatest

difficulty he could find a place of sufficient stability, and clear of the

mountains, which every where surrounded us, to set them up in; and at last

he was obliged to content himself with the top of a rock not more than nine

feet over.

Next day I sent Lieutenants Clerke and Pickersgill, accompanied by some of

the other officers, to examine and draw a sketch of the channel on the

other side of the island; and I went myself in another boat, accompanied by

the botanists, to survey the northern parts of the sound. In my way I

landed on the point of a low isle covered with herbage, part of which had

been lately burnt: We likewise saw a hut, signs sufficient that people were

in the neighbourhood. After I had taken the necessary bearings, we

proceeded round the east end of Burnt Island, and over to what we judged to

be the main of Terra del Fuego, where we found a very fine harbour

encompassed by steep rocks of vast height, down which ran many limpid

streams of water; and at the foot of the rocks some tufts of trees, fit for

little else but fuel.[1]

This harbour, which I shall distinguish by the name of the Devil's Bason,

is divided, as it were, into two, an inner. and an outer one; and the

communication between them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. In the

outer bason I found thirteen and seventeen fathoms water, and in the inner

seventeen and twenty-three. This last is as secure a place as can be, but

nothing can be more gloomy. The vast height of the savage rocks which

encompass it, deprived great part of it, even on this day, of the meridian

sun. The outer harbour is not quite free from this inconvenience, but far

more so than the other; it is also rather more commodious, and equally

safe. It lies in the direction of north, a mile and a half distant from

the east end of Burnt Island. I likewise found a good anchoring-place a

little to the west of this harbour, before a stream of water, that comes

out of a lake or large reservoir, which is continually supplied by a

cascade falling into it.

Leaving this place, we proceeded along the shore to the westward, and found

other harbours which I had not time to look into. In all of them is fresh

water, and wood for fuel; but, except these little tufts of bushes, the

whole country is a barren rock, doomed by nature to everlasting sterility.

The low islands, and even some of the higher, which lie scattered up and

down the sound, are indeed mostly covered with shrubs and herbage, the soil

a black rotten turf, evidently composed, by length of time, of decayed

vegetables.

I had an opportunity to verify what we had observed at sea, that the sea-

coast is composed of a number of large and small islands, and that the

numerous inlets are formed by the junction of several channels; at least so

it is here. On one of these low islands we found several huts, which had

lately been inhabited; and near them was a good deal of celery, with which

we loaded our boat, and returned on board at seven o'clock in the evening.

In this expedition we met with little game; one duck, three or four shags,

and about that number of rails or sea-pies, being all we got. The other

boat returned on board some hours before, having found two harbours on the

west side of the other channel; the one large, and the other small, but

both of them safe and commodious; though, by the sketch Mr Pickersgill had

taken of them, the access to both appeared rather intricate.[2]

I was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of our

marines. He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o'clock the preceding

night. It was supposed that he had fallen overboard, out of the head, where

he had been last seen, and was drowned.

Having fine pleasant weather on the 23d, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill in

the cutter to explore the east side of the sound, and went myself in the

pinnace to the west side, with an intent to go round the island, under

which we were at anchor (and which I shall distinguish by the name of Shag

Island), in order to view the passage leading to the harbours Mr

Pickersgill had discovered the day before, on which I made the following

observations. In coming from sea, leave all the rocks and islands, lying

off and within York Minster, on your larboard side; and the black rock,

which lies off the south end of Shag Island, on your starboard; and when

abreast of the south end of that island, haul over for the west shore,

taking care to avoid the beds of weeds you will see before you, as they

always grow on rocks; some of which I have found twelve fathoms under

water; but it is always best to keep clear of them. The entrance to the

large harbour, or Port Clerke, is just to the north of some low rocks lying

off a point on Shag Island. This harbour lies in W. by S., a mile and a

half, and hath in it from twelve to twenty-four fathoms depth, wood and

fresh water. About a mile without, or to the southward of Port Clerke, is,

or seemed to be, another which I did not examine. It is formed by a large

island which covers it from the south and east winds. Without this island,

that is, between it and York Minster, the sea seemed strewed with islets,

rocks, and breakers. In proceeding round the south end of Shag Island, we

observed the shags to breed in vast numbers in the cliffs of the rock. Some

of the old ones we shot, but could not come at the young ones, which are by

far the best eating. On the east side of the island we saw some geese; and

having with difficulty landed, we killed three, which, at this time, was a

valuable acquisition.

About seven, in the evening, we got on board, where Mr Pickersgill had

arrived but just before. He informed me that the land opposite to our

station was an island, which he had been round; that on another, more to

the north, be found many _terns_ eggs; and that without the great

island, between it and the east-head, lay a cove in which were many geese;

one only of which he got, beside some young goslings.

This information of Mr Pickersgill's induced me to make up two shooting

parties next day; Mr Pickersgill and his associates going in the cutter,

and myself and the botanists in the pinnace. Mr Pickersgill went by the

N.E. side of the large island above-mentioned, which obtained the name of

Goose Island; and I went by the S.W. side. As soon as we got under the

island we found plenty of shags in the cliffs, but, without staying to

spend our time and shot upon these, we proceeded on, and presently found

sport enough, for in the south side of the island were abundance of geese.

It happened to be the moulting season; and most of them were on shore for

that purpose, and could not fly. There being a great surf, we found great

difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when we were

landed; so that hundreds of the geese escaped us, some into the sea, and

others up into the island. We, however, by one means or other, got sixty-

two, with which we returned on board all heartily tired; but the

acquisition we had made overbalanced every other consideration, and we sat

down with a good appetite to supper on part of what the preceding day had

produced. Mr Pickersgill and his associates had got on board some time

before us with fourteen geese; so that I was able to make distribution to

the whole crew, which was the more acceptable on account of the approaching

festival. For had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our

Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork.

I now learnt that a number of the natives, in nine canoes, had been

alongside the ship, and some on board. Little address was required to

persuade them to either; for they seemed to be well enough acquainted with

Europeans, and had, amongst them, some of their knives.

The next morning, the 25th, they made us another visit. I found them to be

of the same nation I had formerly seen in Success Bay, and the same which

M. de Bougainville distinguishes by the name of Pecheras; a word which

these had, on every occasion, in their mouths. They are a little, ugly,

half-starved, beardless race. I saw not a tall person amongst them. They

are almost naked; their clothing was a seal-skin; some had two or three

sewed together, so as to make a cloak which reached to the knees; but the

most of them had only one skin, hardly large enough to cover their

shoulders, and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women, I was

told, cover their nakedness with the flap of a seal-skin, but in other

respects are clothed like the men. They, as well as the children, remained

in the canoes. I saw two young children at the breast entirely naked; thus

they are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had with

them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, and

fitted to a staff. I suppose they were intended to kill seals and fish;

they may also kill whales with them, as the Esquimaux do. I know not if

they resemble them in their love of train-oil; but they and every thing

they had smelt most intolerably of it. I ordered them some biscuit, but did

not observe them so fond of it as I had been told. They were much better

pleased when I gave them some medals, knives, &c.[3]

The women and children, as before observed, remained in their canoes. These

were made of bark; and in each was a fire, over which the poor creatures

huddled themselves. I cannot suppose that they carry a fire in their canoes

for this purpose only, but rather that it may be always ready to remove

ashore wherever they land; for let their method of obtaining fire be what

it may, they cannot be always sure of finding dry fuel that will kindle

from a spark. They likewise carry in their canoes large seal hides, which I

judged were to shelter them when at sea, and to serve as covering to their

huts on shore, and occasionally to be used for sails.

They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of our

Christmas cheer. Indeed I believe no one invited them, and for good

reasons; for their dirty persons, and the stench they carried about them,

were enough to spoil the appetite of any European; and that would have been

a real disappointment, as we had not experienced such fare for some time.

Roast and boiled geese, goose-pye, &c. was a treat little known to us; and

we had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only article of our

provision that was mended by keeping. So that our friends in England did

not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than we did.

On the 26th, little wind next to a calm, and fair weather, except in the

morning, when we had some showers of rain. In the evening, when it was

cold, the natives made us another visit; and it being distressing to see

them stand trembling and naked on the deck, I could not do less than give

them some baize and old canvas to cover themselves.

Having already completed our water, on the 27th I ordered the wood, tent,

and observatory to be got on board; and, as this was work for the day, a

party of us went in two boats to shoot geese, the weather being fine and

pleasant. We proceeded round by the south side of Goose Island, and picked

up in all thirty-one. On the east side of the island, to the north of the

east point, is good anchorage, in seventeen fathoms water, where it is

entirely land-locked. This is a good place for ships to lie in that are

bound to the west. On the north side of this isle I observed three fine

coves, in which were both wood and water; but it being near night, I had no

time to sound them, though I doubt not there is anchorage. The way to come

at them is by the west end of the island.

When I returned on board I found every thing got off the shore, and the

launch in; so that we now only waited for a wind to put to sea. The

festival, which we celebrated at this place, occasioned my giving it the

name of Christmas Sound. The entrance, which is three leagues wide, is

situated in the latitude of 55° 27' S., longitude 70° 16' W.; and in the

direction of N. 37° W. from St Ildefonso Isles, distant ten leagues. These

isles are the best landmark for finding the sound. York Minster, which is

the only remarkable land about it, will hardly be known by a stranger, from

any description that can be given of it, because it alters its appearance

according to the different situations it is viewed from. Besides the black

rock, which lies off the end of Shag Island, there is another about midway

between this and the east shore. A copious description of this sound is

unnecessary, as few would be benefited by it. Anchorage, tufts of wood, and

fresh-water, will be found in all the coves and harbours. I would advise no

one to anchor very near the shore for the sake of having a moderate depth

of water, because there I generally found a rocky bottom.

The refreshments to be got here are precarious, as they consist chiefly of

wild fowl, and may probably never be found in such plenty as to supply the

crew of a ship; and fish, so far as we can judge, are scarce. Indeed the

plenty of wild-fowl made us pay less attention to fishing. Here are,

however, plenty of muscles, not very large, but well tasted; and very good

celery is to be met with on several of the low islets, and where the

natives have their habitations. The wild-fowl are geese, ducks, sea-pies,

shags, and that kind of gull so often mentioned in this journal under the

name of Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, called by our people race-

horses, on account of the great swiftness with which they run on the water;

for they cannot fly, the wings being too short to support the body in the

air. This bird is at the Falkland Islands, as appears by Pernety's Journal.

The geese too are there, and seem to be very well described under the name

of bustards. They are much smaller than our English tame geese, but eat as

well as any I ever tasted. They have short black bills and yellow feet. The

gander is all white; the female is spotted black and white, or grey, with a

large white spot on each wing. Besides the bird above-mentioned, here are

several other aquatic, and some land ones; but of the latter not many.

From the knowledge which the inhabitants seem to have of Europeans, we may

suppose that they do not live here continually, but retire to the north

during the winter. I have often wondered that these people do not clothe

themselves better, since Nature has certainly provided materials. They

might line their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic

birds; they might make their cloaks larger, and employ the same skins for

other parts of clothing, for I cannot suppose they are scarce with them.

They were ready enough to part with those they had to our people, which

they hardly would have done, had they not known where to have got more. In

short, of all the nations I have seen, the Pecheras are the most wretched.

They are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the

world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such

conveniences as may render life in some measure more comfortable.

Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, and

gave sufficient employment to Mr Forster and his party. The tree, which

produceth the winter's bark; is found here in the woods, as is the holy-

leaved barberry; and some other sorts, which I know not, but I believe are

common in the straits of Magalhaens. We found plenty of a berry, which we

called the cranberry, because they are nearly of the same colour, size, and

shape. It grows on a bushy plant, has a bitterish taste, rather insipid;

but may he eaten either raw or in tarts, and is used as food by the

natives.[4]

[1] "We found many little clefts, which cannot properly be called

vallies, where a few shrubs of different species sprang up in a thin

layer of swampy soil, being defended against the violence of storms,

and exposed to the genial influence of reverberated sun-beams. The

rock, of which the whole island consisted, is a coarse granite,

composed of feld-spath, quartz, and black mica or glimmer. This rock

is in most places entirely naked, without the smallest vegetable

particle; but wherever the rains, or melted snows, have washed

together some little rubbish, and other particles in decay, it is

covered with a coating of minute plants, in growth like mosses, which,

forming a kind of turf, about an inch or more in thickness, very

easily slip away under the foot, having no firm hold on the rock. In

sheltered places a few other plants thrive among these mossy species,

and these at last form a sufficient quantity of soil for the nutriment

of shrubs. Here we found the species which affords what has been

called Winter's Bark; but in this unfriendly situation it was only a

shrub about ten feet high, crooked and shapeless. Barren as these

rocks appeared, yet almost every plant which we gathered on them was

new to us, and some species were remarkable for the beauty of their

flowers, or their smell."--G.F.

[2] Mr G.F. has given a pretty minute description of the country

around this sound, and its annual and vegetable productions; but for a

reason afterwards stated by Captain Cook, there seems little

inducement to copy from it. Those who think otherwise, but who,

perhaps, are very few in number, will have recourse to that

gentleman's narrative.--E.

[3] The reader who is not satisfied with the picture now given of

these wretched and disgusting beings, may turn to the abstract of

Bougainville's Voyage, quoted in the preceding volume of this

collection, which surely ought to suffice.--E.

[4] In the cavities and crevices of the huge piles of rocks, forming

Terra del Fuego and Staten-land, so very like each other, where a

little moisture is preserved by its situation, and where from the

continued friction of the loose pieces of rocks, washed and hurried

down the steep sides of the rocky masses, a few minute particles form

a kind of sand; there in the stagnant water gradually spring up a few

algaceous plants from seeds carried thither on the feet, plumage, and

bills of birds; these plants form at the end of each season a few

atoms of mould which yearly increases; the birds, the sea, or the wind

carries from a neighbouring isle, the seeds of some of the mossy

plants to this little mould, and they vegetate in it daring the proper

season. Though these plants be not absolute mosses, they are however

nearly related to them in their habit. We reckon among them the IXIA

_pumila_; a new plant which we called DONATIA; a small MELANTHIUM; a

minute OXALIS and CALENDULA; another little dioicous plant, called by

us PHYLLACHNE, together with the MNIARUM, (see Forster, Nova Genera

Plantarum). These plants, or the greater part of them, have a peculiar

growth, particularly adapted to these regions, and fit for forming

soil and mould on barren rocks. In proportion as they grow up, they

spread into various stems and branches, which lie as close together as

possible; they spread new seeds, and at last a large spot is covered;

the lowermost fibres, roots, stalks, and leaves, gradually decay and

push forth on the top new verdant leaves: The decaying lower parts

form a kind of peat, or turf, which gradually changes into mould and

soil. The close texture of these plants hinders the moisture below

from evaporating, and thus furnishes nutriment to the vegetation

above, and clothes at last whole hills and isles with a constant

verdure. Among these pumilous plants, some of a greater stature begin

to thrive, without in the least prejudicing the growth of these

creators of mould and soil. Among these plants we reckon a small

ARBUTUS, a diminutive myrtle, a little dandelion, a small creeping

CRASSULA, the common PINGUICULA _alpina_, a yellow variety of the

VIOLA _palustris_, the STATICE _armeria_, or sea pink, a kind of

burnet, the RANUNCULUS _lapponicus_, the HOLCUS _odoratus_, the common

celery, with the ARABIS _heterophylla_. Soon after we observed, in

places that are still covered with the above-mentioned mossy plant, a

new rush (JUNCUS _triglumis_,) a fine AMELLUS, a most beautiful

scarlet CHELONE, and lastly, even shrubby plants, viz. a scarlet-

flowered shrubby plant of a new genus, which we called EMBOTHRIUM

_coccineum_; two new kinds of berberis, (BERBERIS _ilicifolia et

mitior_;) an arbutus with cuspidated leaves (ARBUTUS _mucronata_;) and

lastly, the tree bearing the winter's bark (DRYMIS _winteri_,) which,

however, in these rocky barren parts of Terra del Fuego never exceeds

the size of a tolerable shrub; whereas in Success Bay, on a gentle

sloping ground, in a rich and deep soil, it grows to the size of the

largest timber. The falling leaves, the rotting mossy plants, and

various other circumstances, increase the mould and form a deeper

soil, more and more capable of bearing larger plants. Thus they all

enlarge the vegetable system, and rescue new animated parts of the

creation from their inactive chaotic state."--F.

END OF VOLUME FOURTEENTH.