(_Coelogenus paca_), agoutis (_Chloromys_), and capivaras. The pacas
were creatures a little larger than hares, and not unlike them, except
that their ears were shorter. They were whitish on the under parts, but
above were of a dark brown colour, with rows of white spots along each
side. They had whiskers like the cat, consisting of long white
bristles; and their tails, like those of hares, were scarcely visible.
The agoutis bore a considerable resemblance to the pacas. Like these,
they are also rodent animals, but less in size; and instead of being
spotted, they are of a nearly uniform dark colour mixed with reddish
brown. Both pacas and agoutis are found in most parts of tropical
America. There are several species of each, and with the chinchillas
and viscachas already described, they occupy the place in those regions
that the hares and rabbits do in northern climates. Indeed, European
settlers usually know them by the names of hare or rabbit, and hunt them
in the same way. The flesh of most species is very good eating, and
they are therefore much sought after both by the natives and colonists.
Along with these, near the juvia-tree, were several capivaras, already
noticed. But still more singular creatures on the ground were the
monkeys. Of these there were different kinds; but that which first drew
the attention of our party was the great Capuchin monkey (_Brachyurus
chiropotes_). This creature is not less than three feet in height and
of a reddish maroon colour. Its body is entirely different from the
"ateles" monkeys, being stouter and covered with a fuller coat of hair;
and its tail is large and bushy, without any prehensile power. It is,
in fact, less of a tree monkey than the _ateles_, although it also lives
among the branches. The most striking peculiarities of the Capuchin are
its head and face. In these it bears a stronger resemblance to the
human being than any other monkey in America. The top of its head is
covered with a crop of coarse hair, that lies somewhat after the fashion
of human hair; but, what most contributes to the human expression is a
large full beard and whiskers reaching down to the breast, and arranged
exactly after the fashion of the huge beards worn by Orientals and some
Frenchmen. There were only two of these Capuchins on the ground--a male
and female, for this species does not associate in bands. The female
one was easily distinguished by her smaller size, and her beard was
considerably less than that of the male. The beards seemed to be
objects of special attention with both--especially the male, as every
now and then he was observed to stroke it down with his hand, just as a
dandy may be seen doing with his moustache or his well-brushed whiskers.
Another peculiar habit of the Capuchins was noticed. There was a little
pool of water close by. Every now and then they ran to this pool and
took a drink from it. But in drinking they did not apply their lips to
the pool or lap like a dog. No; they lifted the water in the hollow of
their hands--hence their specific name of _chiropotes_, or
"hand-drinking monkeys." They raised the water to their lips with great
care, taking pains not to let a drop of it fall on their precious
beards. From this habit of going so often to quench their thirst, the
Capuchin monkeys have in some parts got the name of "hard-drinking
monkeys."
Apart from these was a troop of monkeys of a very different species.
They were nearly of the same size, but more of the shape of the
"ateles;" and their long tails, naked underneath and curling downward
near the points, showed that, like them too, they possessed prehensile
power in that member. Such was the fact, for they were "howling
monkeys;" and some species of these can use the tail almost as adroitly
as the "ateles" themselves. Those that our travellers saw were the
"guaribas," nearly black in colour, but with their hands covered with
yellow hair, whence their name among the naturalists of "yellow-handed
howler" (_Stentor flavimanus_). They were seated in a ring when first
observed, and one--apparently the chief of the band--was haranguing the
rest; but so rapid were his articulations, and so changeable the tones
of his voice, that any one would have thought the whole party were
chattering together. This, in effect, did occur at intervals, and then
you might have heard them to the distance of more than a mile. These
creatures are enabled to produce this vast volume of voice in
consequence of a hollow bony structure at the root of the tongue, which
acts as a drum, and which gives them the appearance of a swelling, or
goitre, in the throat. This is common to all the howling monkeys as
well as the guaribas.
Besides the howlers there were other species--there were tamarins, and
ouistitis, and the black coaitas of the genus "ateles," all assembled
around the juvia-tree. There were parrots, and macaws, and other
nut-eating birds. High above in the air soared the great eagle watching
his opportunity to swoop down on the pacas or agoutis, his natural prey.
It was altogether a singular assemblage of wild animals--a zoological
garden of the wilderness.
Our party, concealed by bushes, looked on for some time. They noticed
that not one of all the living things was _under_ the tree. On the
contrary, they formed--monkeys, cavies, parrots, and all--a sort of ring
around it, but at such a distance that none of the brandies were above
them! Why was this? Guapo knew the reason well, and before leaving
their place of observation the others had an explanation of it.
While they stood gazing one of the great globes was seen to fall from
the tree above. The loud report as it struck the earth could have been
heard a long way off. It caused the whole assemblage of living
creatures to start. The macaws flapped their wings, the monkeys ran
outward and then stopped, and a simultaneous cry from the voices of both
birds and beasts echoed on all sides; and then there was a general
chattering and screaming, as though the fall of the great pericarp had
given pleasure to all parties.
It was very evident from this circumstance why both beasts and birds
kept so far out from the tree. One of these fruits coming down like a
nine-pound shot would have crushed any of them to atoms. Indeed, so
heavy are they, that one of them falling from a height of fifty or sixty
feet will dash out the brains of a man; and the Indians who gather them
go under the trees with great wooden helmets that cover both the head
and shoulders! It would be no boy's play to "go a nutting" in a wood of
juvia-trees.
But how did the monkeys and birds get at the nuts? Neither of these
could break open the outer shell. This is full half an inch thick, and
so hard that it can scarcely be cut with a saw. How could either
monkeys or birds open it?--that was the question put to Guapo.
"Watch them," said Guapo.
All kept their eyes bent attentively on what was going on; and to their
astonishment they observed that neither the monkeys nor the birds had
anything to do with the opening of the shells. That was entirely the
work of the rodent animals, the pacas, cavies, and agoutis. These with
their fine cutting teeth laid open the thick pericarps, and whenever one
was seen to have succeeded, and the triangular nuts were scattered upon
the ground, then there was a general rush, and macaws, parrots, and
monkeys scrambled for a share. The monkeys, however, did their part of
the work. Whenever a fruit fell from the tree, one or two of them,
deputed by the others, were seen to run in and roll it out, all the
while exhibiting symptoms of great terror. They would then lift it in
their hands, several of them together, and dash it repeatedly upon a
stone. Sometimes, when the shell was not a strong one, they succeeded
in breaking it in this way; but oftener they were not able, and then it
was left to the rodent animals, who were watched at their operations,
and usually robbed of the fruits of their labour. Such were the
singular incidents witnessed at this festival of juvia-nuts.
But the scene was brought to a sudden termination. A cry was heard that
rose far above all the other noises--a cry more terrible than the
screams of the parrots, or the shrieks of the howling monkeys--it was
the cry of the jaguar! It came from a piece of woods close to the
juvia-tree, and the branches were heard to crackle as the dreaded
utterer advanced.
In a moment the ground was cleared of every creature. Even the winged
birds had flew up from the spot, and perched upon the branches; the
cavies took to the water; the pacas and agouties to their burrows; and
the monkeys to the tops of the adjacent trees; and nothing remained on
the ground but the empty shells of the juvias.
Our party did not stay to notice the change. They, too, had been warned
by the roar of the tiger, and hastily leaving the spot, returned to
their place of encampment. On reaching it, they kindled a large circle
of fire to keep them in safety during the night. They saw no more of
the jaguar, although at intervals through the midnight hours, they were
awakened by his loud and savage cry, resounding through the openings of
the forest.
CHAPTER FORTY THREE.
ACRES OF EGGS.
The next evening our travellers encamped on a sand-bar, or rather a
great bank of sand, that ran for miles along one side of the river. Of
course they had nothing to hang their hammocks to, but that was a matter
of no importance, for the sand was dry and soft, and of itself would
make a comfortable bed, as pleasant to sleep on as a hair-mattress.
They only wanted wood enough to cook with, and to keep up their fire
during the night--so as to frighten off the wild beasts.
This night they kept watch as usual, Leon taking the first turn. In
fact, they found that they must do so every night--as in each of the
camps where they had slept some danger had threatened; and they thought
it would be imprudent for all to go to sleep at the same time. The
heaviest part of the sentinel's duty fell to Guapo's share; but Guapo
had long accustomed himself to go without sleep, and did not mind it;
moreover Don Pablo took longer spells at the stern-oar during the day,
and allowed Guapo many a "cat-nap."
Leon seated himself upon a pile of sand that he had gathered up, and did
his best to keep awake, but in about an hour after the rest were asleep
he felt very drowsy--in fact, quite as much so as on the night of the
adventure with the vampire. He used pretty much the same means to keep
himself awake, but not with so good success, for on this occasion he
fell into a nap that lasted nearly half-an-hour, and might have
continued still longer, had he not slid down the sand-hill and tumbled
over on his side. This awoke him; and feeling vexed with himself, he
rubbed his eyes as if he was going to push them deeper into their
sockets.
When this operation was finished, he looked about to see if any creature
had ventured near. He first looked towards the woods--for of course
that was the direction from which the tigers would come, and these were
the only creatures he feared; but he had scarcely turned himself when he
perceived a pair of eyes glancing at him from the other side of the
fire. Close to them another pair, then another and another, until
having looked on every side, he saw himself surrounded by a complete
circle of glancing eyes! It is true they were small ones, and some of
the heads which he could see by the blaze, were small--they were not
jaguars, but they had an ugly look--they looked like the heads of
serpents! Was it possible that an hundred serpents could have
surrounded the camp? Brought suddenly to his feet, Leon stood for some
moments uncertain how to act. He fully believed they were snakes--
anacondas, or water-snakes no doubt--that had just crept out of the
river; and he felt that a movement on his part would bring on their
united and simultaneous attack upon the sleeping party. Partly
influenced by this fear, and again exhibiting that coolness and prudence
which we have already noticed as a trait of his character, he remained
for some moments silent and motionless. Having already risen to his
feet, his eyes were now above the level of the blaze, and, as they got
the sleep well scared out of them, he could see things more distinctly.
He now saw that the snake-like heads were attached to large oval-shaped
bodies, and that, besides the half hundred or so that had gathered
around the fires, there were whole droves of the same upon the sandy
beach beyond. The white surface was literally covered as far as he
could see on all sides of him with black moving masses; and where the
rays of the moon fell upon the beach, there was a broad belt that
glistened and sparkled as though she shone upon pieces of glass kept
constantly in motion!
A singular sight it was; and to Leon, who had never heard of such
before, a most fearful one. For the life of him he could not make out
what it all meant, or by what sort of odd creatures they were
surrounded. He had but an indistinct view of them, but he could see
that their bodies were not larger than those of a small sheep, and from
the way in which they glistened under the moon he was sure they were
water-animals, and had come out of the river!
He did not stay to speculate any longer upon them. He resolved to wake
Guapo; but in doing so the whole party were aroused, and started to
their feet in some alarm and confusion. The noise and movement had its
effect on the nocturnal visitors; for before Leon could explain himself,
those immediately around the fires and for some distance beyond rushed
to the edge, and were heard plunging by hundreds into the water.
Guapo's ear caught the sounds, and his eye now ranging along the sandy
shore, took in at a glance the whole thing.
"Carapas," he said laconically.
"Carapas?" inquired Leon.
"Oh!" said Don Pablo, who understood him. "Turtles is it?"
"Yes, master," replied Guapo. "This is, I suppose, one of their great
hatching-places. They are going to lay their eggs somewhere in the sand
above. They do so every year."
There was no danger from the turtles, as Guapo assured everybody, but
the fright had chased away sleep, and they all lay awake for some time
listening to Guapo's account of these singular creatures, which we shall
translate into our own phraseology.
These large turtles, which in other parts of South America are called
"arraus," or simply "tortugas," assemble every year in large armies,
from all parts of the river. Each one of these armies chooses for
itself a place to breed--some sandy island, or great sand-bank. This
they approach very cautiously--lying near it for some days, and
reconnoitring it with only their heads above the water. They then crawl
ashore at night in vast multitudes--just as the party saw them--and each
turtle, with the strong crooked claws of her hind feet, digs a hole for
herself in the sand. These holes are three feet in diameter and two
deep. In this she deposits her eggs--from seventy to one hundred and
twenty of them--each egg being white, hard-shelled, and between the size
of a pigeon's and pullet's. She then covers the whole with sand,
levelling it over the top so that it may look like the rest of the
surface, and so that the precious treasure may not be found by vultures,
jaguars, and other predatory creatures. When this is done the labour of
the turtle is at an end. The great army again betakes itself to the
water, and scatters in _every_ direction. The sun acting upon the hot
sand does the rest; and in less than six weeks the young turtles, about
an inch in diameter, crawl out of the sand, and at once make for the
water. They are afterwards seen in pools and lakes, where the water is
shallow, far from the place where they have been hatched; and it is well
known that the first years of their life are not spent in the bed of the
great river. How they find these pools, or whether the mothers
distinguish their own young and conduct them thither, as the crocodiles
and alligators do, is a mystery. With these last the thing is more
easy, as the crocodile-mothers deposit their eggs in separate places,
and each returns for her young when they are hatched, calls them by her
voice, and guides them to the pool where they are to remain until partly
grown. But among the thousands of little turtles hatched at one place
and time, and that seek the water all together, how would it be possible
for the turtle mother to distinguish her own young? Yet an old female
turtle is frequently seen swimming about with as many as a hundred
little ones after her! Now are these her own, or are they a collection
picked up out of the general progeny? That is an undetermined question.
It would seem impossible that each turtle-mother should know her own
young, yet amidst this apparent confusion there may be some maternal
instinct that guides her to distinguish her own offspring from all the
rest. Who can say?
It is not often, however, that the turtle is permitted to have offspring
at all. These creatures are annually robbed of their eggs in millions.
They have many enemies, but man is the chief. When a turtle
hatching-place is discovered, the Indians assemble, and as soon as all
the eggs have been deposited, they uncover and collect them. They eat
them--but that is not the principal use to which they are put. It is
for the making of oil, or "tortoise-butter," they are collected. The
eggs are thrown into a large trough or canoe, where they are broken up
with a wooden spade and stirred about for awhile. They then remain
exposed to the sun, until the oily part collects on the surface, which
is then skimmed off and well boiled. The "tortoise-butter" is now made,
and after being poured into earthen jars or bottles (_botijas_), it is
ready for market. The oil is clear, of a pale yellow colour, and some
regard it as equal to the best olive oil, both for lamps and for
cooking. Sometimes, however, it has a putrid smell, because many of the
eggs are already half hatched before the gathering takes place.
What would be the result were these eggs not gathered by the Indians?
Perhaps in the different rivers of South America more than an hundred
millions of them are deposited every year! In the Orinoco alone, in
three principal hatching-places it has been calculated that at least
thirty-three millions are annually destroyed for the making of
tortoise-butter! Fancy, then, one hundred millions of animals, each of
which grows to the weight of fifty or sixty pounds, being produced every
year, and then the increase in production which these would make if left
to themselves! Why the rivers would be crowded; and it would be true
what old Father Gumilla once asserted, that "It would be as difficult to
count the grains of sand on the shores of the Orinoco, as to count the
immense number of tortoises that inhabit its margins and waters. Were
it not for the vast consumption of tortoises and their eggs, the river,
despite its great magnitude, would be unnavigable, for vessels would be
impeded by the enormous multitude of the tortoises."
But nature has provided against this "over-population" of the turtles by
giving them a great many enemies. The jaguars, the ocelots, the
crocodiles, the cranes, and the vultures, all prey upon them; and,
perhaps, if man were to leave them alone, the result would be, not such
a great increase in the number of the turtles, but that the creatures
who prey upon them would come in for a larger share.
The "carapa," or arrau turtle, is, when full grown, forty or fifty
pounds in weight. It is of a dark green colour above and orange
beneath, with yellow feet. There are many other species of fresh-water
turtles in the rivers of South America, but these breed separately, each
female choosing her own place, and making her deposit alone. Indeed,
some of the smaller species, as the "terekay," are more esteemed both
for their flesh and eggs; but as a large quantity of these eggs is never
found together, they are not collected as an article of trade, but only
to be roasted and eaten. The white does not coagulate in roasting or
boiling, and only the yolk is eaten, but that is esteemed quite as
palatable as the eggs of the common fowl. The flesh of all kinds is
eaten by the Indians, who fry it in pots, and then pour it with its own
oil into other vessels and permit it to cool. When thus prepared, it
will keep for a long time, and can be taken out when required for use.
Most of the above particulars were communicated by Guapo; and when he
had finished talking, all the others went to sleep, leaving Guapo to his
midnight vigil.
CHAPTER FORTY FOUR.
A FIGHT BETWEEN TWO VERY SCALY CREATURES.
When they awoke in the morning they found Guapo busy over the fire. He
had already been at the turtles' nests, and had collected a large
basketful of the eggs, some of which he was cooking for breakfast. In
addition to the eggs, moreover, half-a-dozen large turtles lay upon
their backs close by. The flesh of these Guapo intended to scoop out
and fry down, so as to be carried away as a sort of stock of preserved
meat;--and a very excellent idea it was. He had caught them during his
watch as they came out of the water.
All the turtles had gone off, although this is not always the case; for
frequently numbers that have not finished covering their eggs during the
night may be seen hard at work in the morning, and so intent on it, that
they do not heed the presence of their worst enemies. These the Indians
denominate "mad tortoises."
This morning, however, no "mad tortoises" were to be seen; but when our
travellers cast their eyes along the beach they saw quite a number that
appeared to be turned upon their backs just like those that Guapo had
capsized. They were at some distance from the camp, but curiosity
prompted our travellers to walk along the beach and examine them. Sure
enough there were nearly a dozen large tortoises regularly laid on their
backs, and unable to stir; but, besides these, there were several
tortoise-shells out of which the flesh had been freshly scooped, and
these were as neatly cleaned out as if the work had been done by an
anatomist. All this would have been a mystery but for the experience of
Guapo; but Guapo knew it was the jaguar that had turned the tortoises on
their backs, and that had cleaned out and eaten the flesh from the empty
shells!
Now, it is no easy thing for a man, provided with the necessary
implements, to separate the flesh of a tortoise from its shell, and yet
the jaguar, with his paw, can in a few minutes perform this operation
most adroitly, as our travellers had full proof. All that they saw had
been done that same night; and it gave them no very pleasant feeling to
know that the jaguar had been at work so near them. This animal, as
Guapo said, in attacking the turtles, first turns them over, so as to
prevent their escape--for the "carapas" are of those tortoises that once
upon their backs on level ground cannot right themselves again. He then
proceeds to tear out the flesh, and eats it at his leisure. Oftentimes
he capsizes a far greater number than he can eat, and even returns to
the spot to have a second meal of them; but frequently the Indians
wandering along the river, find the tortoises he has turned over, and of
course make an easy capture of them.
Guapo, upon this occasion, took advantage of the jaguar's skill, and
carried to the camp all that the latter had left. It was Guapo's design
to make a large quantity of "turtle sausage-meat," so that they might
have a supply for many days, as by this time even Guapo himself was
getting tired of the horse-flesh "charqui."
They were about returning to camp, when their attention was drawn to two
dark objects upon the sand-beach a little farther on. These objects
were in motion, and at first they believed they were a pair of "mad
tortoises" that had not yet returned to the water, although they were
close to its edge.
Led on by curiosity our party approached them, and saw that one only was
a tortoise, and one of the largest kind, being nearly three feet in
diameter. The other animal was a small caiman or alligator.
As our travellers drew near they saw that these two creatures were
engaged in a fierce and deadly combat. Now, it is a curious fact that
the larger alligators and crocodiles are among the most destructive
enemies which the turtles have, eating thousands of the latter while
they are still tiny little creatures and unable to defend themselves;
and, on the other hand, that the turtles prey extensively on the young
of both alligators and crocodiles, eating them whenever they can catch
them! I say this is a curious fact in natural history, and it seems a
sort of retaliatory principle established between these two kinds of
reptiles, as if they ate one another's offspring _en revanche_. There
is no feeling of revenge, however, in the matter. It is merely an
instinct of appetite by which both kinds will eat almost any small fry
they come across. In fact, the alligators and crocodiles not only eat
the young of the turtles, but their own young as well. That is, the
_old males_ do; and it has been stated, that the males of some species
of tortoises have a similar unnatural appetite.
The turtle of which we are speaking is one of the most carnivorous of
the whole race, and one of the fiercest in its nature too; so much so,
that it has earned the name of the "fierce tortoise" (_Testudo ferox_).
It will eat fish and small Crustacea, and almost any living thing it
finds in the water, which is not too large for it. It is extremely
expert in catching its prey. It lies concealed at the bottom among the
roots of flags and nymphae; and when any small fish chances to pass it,
by means of its long neck darts out its head and seizes upon its
unsuspecting victim. Once the bill of the "fierce turtle" has closed
upon any object its hold is secure. You may cut its head off, but
otherwise it cannot be forced to let go, until it has either captured
its prey or taken the piece with it. It will "nip" a stout walking-cane
between its mandibles, as if it was no more than a rush.
A very good story is told of a thief and a tortoise. The thief was
prowling about the larder of an hotel in search of plunder, when he came
upon a large market-basket filled with provisions. He immediately
inserted his hand to secure the contents, when he felt himself suddenly
seized by the fingers, and bitten so severely, that he was fain to draw
back his hand in the most hasty manner possible. But along with the
hand he drew out a "snapping" turtle. To get rid of the "ugly customer"
was his next care; but, in spite of all his efforts, the turtle held on,
determined to have the finger. The scuffle, and the shouts which pain
compelled the thief to give utterance to, awoke the landlord and the
rest of the household; and before the thief could disengage himself and
escape, he was secured and given into custody.