For several days they voyaged down-stream, without any occurrence of

particular interest. Once or twice they saw Indians upon the shore; but

these, instead of putting off in their canoes, seemed frightened at so

large a craft, and remained by their "maloccas," or great

village-houses, in each of which several families live together. Not

caring to have any dealings with them, our travellers were only too glad

to get past without molestation; and, therefore, when they passed any

place where they thought they observed the signs of Indians on the bank,

they kept on for hours after, without stopping.

A curious incident occurred one evening as they were bringing the balza

to her moorings, which compelled them to drop a little farther

down-stream, and, in fact, almost obliged them to float all night, which

would have been a dangerous matter, as the current at the place happened

to be sharp and rapid.

They had been on the look-out for some time for a good camping-place, as

it was their usual hour to stop. No opening, however, appeared for

several miles. The banks on both sides were thickly-wooded to the

river's edge, and the branches of the trees even drooped into the water.

At length they came in sight of a natural raft that had been formed by

drift-wood in a bend of the stream; and as the logs lay thickly

together, and even piled upon each other, it appeared an excellent place

to encamp on. It was, at all events, better than to attempt to

penetrate the thick jungles which met them everywhere else; and so the

balza was directed towards the raft, and soon floated alongside it.

They had already got ashore on the raft, which was dry and firm, and

would have served their purpose well enough; when, all at once, Guapo

was heard uttering one of those exclamations, which showed that all was

not right. The rest looked towards him for an explanation. He was

standing by the edge of the floating timber, just where the balza

touched it, with his arms stretched out in an attitude that betokened

trouble. They all ran up. They saw what was the matter at a glance.

Thousands of red ants were climbing from the raft to the balza!

Thousands,--nay, it would be nearer the truth to say millions!

At one glance Don Pablo saw that it would be a terrible calamity, should

these creatures gain a lodgment on the balza. Not only were they the

dreaded stinging ants, but in a short time nothing on board would be

left. In a few hours they would have eaten all his stores,--his bark,

his vanilla, and his roots. Already quite a number had got upon the

canoe, and were crossing it toward the body of the balza.

Without saying another word, he ordered all to get on board as quickly

as possible, each taking some utensil that had already been carried on

shore. He and Guapo flew to the poles; and, having hastily unfastened

and drawn in the cable, they pushed the balza out into the stream. Then

while Guapo managed the great oar, Don Pablo, assisted by Leon and by

Dona Isidora, went to work with scoops and pails, dashing water upon the

ants; until every one of them had disappeared, drowned in the canoe or

washed off into the river. Fortunate for them, they had observed this

strange enemy in time. Had they not done so--in other words, had they

gone to sleep, leaving the balza where it was during the night--they

would have awakened in the morning to find their stores completely

destroyed, their labour of a year brought to nothing in the space of a

single night. This is no uncommon occurrence to the merchant or the

colonist of tropical America.

They had made a narrow escape, but a fortunate one. They were not

without their troubles, however. No open ground could be found for

miles below; and, as it was growing dark, they approached the

thickly-wooded bank; and, after a good deal of scratching among the

branches, at length succeeded in making the cable fast to a tree. The

balza then swung round, and floated at the end of the cable, half of it

being buried under the long hanging branches.

They spent their night on board, for it was no use attempting to get on

shore through the underwood; and even if they had, they could not have

encamped very comfortably in a thicket. On the other hand, the balza

did not afford the best accommodation for sleeping. The little "toldo,"

or cabin, was not large enough to swing a hammock in. It would only

contain a few persons seated close together; and it had been built more

for the purpose of keeping the sun off during the hot hours of the day

than for sleeping in. The rest of the balza was occupied with the

freight; and this was so arranged with sloping sides, thatched with the

bussu-leaves, that there was no level place where one could repose upon

it. The night, therefore, was passed without very much sleep having

been obtained by any one of the party. Of course, the moment the first

streaks of day began to appear along the Eastern sky, they were all

awake and ready to leave their disagreeable anchorage.

As they were making preparations to untie the cable, they noticed that

just below where the balza lay, a horizontal limb stretched far out over

the river. It was the lowermost limb of a large zamang-tree, that stood

on the bank close to the edge of the water. It was not near the

surface, but a good many feet above. Still it was not certain that it

was high enough for the roof of the toldo to clear it. That was an

important question; for although the current was not very rapid just

there, it was sufficiently so to carry the balza under this branch

before they could push it out into the stream. Once the cable was let

go, they must inevitably pass under the limb of the zamang; and if that

caught the toldo, it would sweep off the frail roof like so much

spider's-web. This would be a serious damage; and one to be avoided, if

possible.

Don Pablo and Guapo went to the end of the balza nearest the branch, and

stood for some time surveying it. It was about eight or ten yards

distant; but in the grey dawn they could not judge correctly of its

height, and they waited till it grew a little clearer. At length they

came to the conclusion that the branch was high enough. The long

pendulous leaves--characteristic of this great _mimosa_--and the

drooping branchlets hung down much below the main shaft; but these, even

if they touched the roof, would do no injury. It was, therefore,

determined to let go the cable.

It was now clear day, for they had been delayed a good while; but at

length all was ready, and Guapo untied the cable, and drew the end on

board. The balza began to move; slowly at first, for the current under

the bushes was very slight.

All at once the attention of the voyagers was called to the strange

conduct of the pet monkey. That little creature was running to and fro,

first upon the roof of the toldo, then down again, all the while

uttering the most piercing shrieks as if something was biting off its

tail! It was observed to look forward and upward toward the branch of

the zamang, as if the object it dreaded was in that quarter. The eyes

of all were suddenly bent in the same direction. What was their horror

on beholding, stretched along the branch, the hideous body of an

enormous serpent! Only part of it could be seen; the hinder half and

the tail were hidden among the bromelias and vines that in huge masses

clustered around the trunk of the zamang, and the head was among the

leaflets of the mimosa; but what they saw was enough to convince them

that it was a snake of the largest size--the great "_water-boa_"--the

_anaconda_!

That part of the body in sight was full as thick as a man's thigh, and

covered with black spots or blotches upon a ground of dingy yellow. It

was seen to glisten as the animal moved, for the latter was in motion,

crawling along the branch _outward_! The next moment its head appeared

under the pendulous leaves; and its long forking tongue, protruding

several inches from its mouth, seemed to feel the air in front of it.

This tongue kept playing backwards and forwards, and its viscid covering

glittered under the sunbeam, adding to the hideous appearance of the

monster.

To escape from passing within its reach would be impossible. The balza

was gliding directly under it! It could launch itself aboard at will.

It could seize upon any one of the party without coming from the branch.

It could coil its body around them, and crush them with the

constricting power of its muscles. It could do all this; for it had

crushed before now the tapir, the roebuck, perhaps even the jaguar

himself.

All on board the boat knew its dangerous power too well; and, of course,

terror was visible in every countenance.

Don Pablo seized the axe, and Guapo laid hold of his _machete_. Dona

Isidora, Leon, and the little Leona, were standing--fortunately they

were--by the door of the toldo; and, in obedience to the cries and

hurried gestures of Don Pablo and the Indian, they rushed in and flung

themselves down. They had scarcely disappeared inside, when the forward

part of the balza upon which stood Don Pablo and Guapo, came close to

the branch, and the head of the serpent was on a level with their own.

Both aimed their blows almost at the same instant; but their footing was

unsteady, the boa drew back at the moment, and both missed their aim.

The next moment the current had carried them out of reach, and they had

no opportunity of striking a second blow.

The moment they had passed the hideous head again dropped down, and hung

directly over, as if waiting. It was a moment of intense anxiety to Don

Pablo. His wife and children! Would it select one as its victim, and

leave the others? or--

He had but little time for reflection. Already the head of the snake

was within three feet of the toldo door. Its eyes were glaring--it was

about to dart down.

"Oh, God, have mercy!" exclaimed Don Pablo, falling upon his knees.

"Oh, God!"

At that moment a loud scream was heard. It came from the toldo; and, at

the same instant, the saimiri was seen leaping out from the door. Along

with the rest, it had taken shelter within; but just as the head of the

snake came in sight, a fresh panic seemed to seize upon it; and, as if

under the influence of fascination, it leaped screaming in the direction

of the terrible object. It was met halfway. The wide jaws closed upon

it, its shrieks were stifled, and the next moment its silken body, along

with the head of the anaconda, disappeared among the leaves of the

mimosa. Another moment passed, and the balza swept clear of the branch,

and floated triumphantly into the open water.

Don Pablo sprang to his feet, ran into the toldo, and, after embracing

his wife and children, knelt down and offered thanks to God for their

almost miraculous deliverance.

CHAPTER FORTY ONE.

A BATCH OF CURIOUS TREES.

Of course the escape from danger so imminent, after the first moments

were over, produced a sort of reaction in the feelings of all, and they

were now rather joyous than otherwise. But with all there was a mixture

of regret when they thought of the fate of little "titi." It had been

their only pet, and had grown to be such a favourite that its loss was

now mourned by every one, and its absence caused them to feel as though

one of the company had been left behind. Several times during that day

poor "titi" was the subject of conversation; indeed, they could hardly

talk about anything else. Little Leona was quite inconsolable; for the

pretty creature had loved Leona, and used to perch on her shoulder by

the hour, and draw her silken ringlets through its tiny hand, and place

its dainty little nose against the rich velvet of her cheek, and play

off all sorts of antics with her ears. Many an hour did "titi" and

Leona spend together. No wonder that the creature was missed.

During the whole of that day they travelled through a country covered

with dense forest. The river was a full half-mile wide, but sometimes

there were islands, and then the current became narrowed on each side,

so that in passing, the balza almost touched the trees on one side or

the other. They saw many kinds of trees growing together, and rarely a

large tract covered with any one species of timber, for this, as already

remarked, is a peculiarity of the Amazon forests. Many new and curious

trees were noticed, of which Don Pablo gave short botanical descriptions

to the others, partly to instruct them, and partly to while away the

hours. Guapo, at the rudder, listened to these learned lectures, and

sometimes added some information of his own about the properties of the

trees, and the uses to which they were put by the Indians. This is what

is termed the popular part of the science of botany, and, perhaps, it is

more important than the mere classification of genera and species, which

is usually all the information that you get from the learned and

systematic botanists.

Among the trees passed to-day was one called the "volador"

(_gyrocarpus_). This is a large forest tree, with lobed leaves, of a

heart-shape. But it is the seeds which are curious, and which give to

the tree the odd name of "volador," or "flier." These seeds have each a

pair of membranaceous and striated wings, which, when the seeds fall,

are turned to meet the air at an angle of 45 degrees; and thus a

rotatory motion is produced, and the falling seeds turn round and round

like little fly-wheels. It is altogether a curious sight when a large

volador is shaken in calm weather, to see the hundreds of seeds whirling

and wheeling towards the ground, which they take a considerable time in

reaching. The volador is not confined to South America, I have seen it

in Mexico, and other parts of North America.

Another singular tree noticed was a tree of the barberry family

(_berberis_), known among the Spanish-Americans as _barba de tigre_, or

"tiger's beard." This name it derives from the fact of its trunk--which

is very large and high--being thickly set all over with sharp, branching

thorns, that are fancied to resemble the whiskers of the jaguar, or

South American "tiger."

A third remarkable tree (or bush) observed was the _Bixa orellana_,

which yields the well-known _arnatto_ dye. This bush is ten or twelve

feet in height, and its seeds grow in a burr-like pericarp. These seeds

are covered with a reddish pulp, which produces the dye. The mode of

making it is simple. The Indian women throw the seeds into a vessel of

hot water, and stir them violently for about an hour, until they have

taken off the pulp. The water is then poured off, and the deposit,

separated from the seeds, is mixed with oil of turtle-eggs, or crocodile

fat, and kneaded into cakes of three or four ounces weight. It is then

"anoto," sometimes written "arnatto," sometimes "arnotto," sometimes

"onoto," and sometimes "anato." The first is the proper spelling. In

Brazil it is called "urucu," whence the French name "rocou;" and the

Peruvians have still another designation for it, "achote." Of course

each tribe of Indians calls it by a separate name. The botanic name,

_Bixa_, is the ancient name by which it was known to the Indians of

Hayti, for it is found in most parts of tropical America growing wild,

although it is also cultivated. It is an article in great demand among

all the Indians of South America, who use it for painting their bodies,

and dyeing the cotton cloth of which they make their garments.

But these people are very skilful in drawing pigments from plants and

trees of many kinds; in fact, their practical chemistry, so far as it

relates to dyes and poisons, is quite surprising, and from time to time

Guapo pointed out trees that were used by them for such purposes.

One was a climbing plant, whose tendrils reached to the tops of the

highest trees. It had beautiful violet-coloured flowers, an inch long,

and Don Pablo saw that it was a species of _bignonia_. Guapo called it

"chica." When in fruit it carries a pod two feet in length, full of

winged seeds. But Guapo said it was not from the seeds that the dye was

obtained, but from the leaves, which turn red when macerated in water.

The colouring matter comes out of the leaves in the form of a light

powder, and is then shaped into cakes, which sell among the Indians for

the value of a dollar each. This colour has a tinge of lake in it, and

is prized even more highly than the anoto. Indeed, red dyes among all

savage nations seem to hold a higher value than those of any other

colour.

Another dye-tree was the "huitoc." This one is a slender tree, about

twenty feet high, with broad leaves shooting out from the stem, and nuts

growing at their bases, after the manner of the bread-fruit. These nuts

resemble black walnuts, and are of a russet colour outside; but the pulp

inside, which produces the huitoc, is of a dark blue, or purple tint.

The "wild indigo tree," was also seen growing in the woods, with a leaf

narrow at the base, and broad at the extremity. With these and many

other dyes the Indians of the Montana paint their bodies in fantastic

modes. So much are they addicted to these customs, that, among the

Indians who labour at the missions, some have been known to work nearly

a month to procure paint enough to give their body a single coat, and

the missionaries have made a merchandise of this gigantic folly. But

the paint is not always to be looked upon in the light of a mere folly,

or vanity. Sometimes it is used to keep off the "zancudos," or

mosquitoes, so numerous and annoying in these regions.

Another singular tree was observed, which Guapo called the "marima," or

"shirt-tree." The use of this he explained. The tree stands fifty or

sixty feet high, with a diameter of from two to three. When they find

them of this size, the Indians cut them down, and then separate the

trunk into pieces of about three feet long. From these pieces they

strip the bark, but without making any longitudinal incision, so that

the piece of bark when taken off is a hollow cylinder. It is thin and

fibrous, of a red colour, and looks like a piece of coarsely-woven

sack-cloth. With this the shirt is made, simply by cutting two holes in

the sides to admit the arms, and the body being passed into it, it is

worn in time of rain. Hence the saying of the old missionaries, that in

the "forests of America garments were found ready-made on the trees."

Many other trees were noticed valuable for their fruits, or leaves, or

bark, or roots, or their wood. There was the well-known "seringa," or

India-rubber tree; the great courbaril, the "dragon's-blood" tree, not

that celebrated tree of the East (_Draccena_), but one of a different

genus (_Crotori_), from whose white bark flows a red blood-like juice.

They saw, also, a species of cinnamon-tree (_Laurus cinnamonoides_),

though not the cinnamon of commerce; the large tree that bears the

Brazilian nutmeg (the Puxiri); and that one, also, a large forest tree,

that bears the nuts known as "Tonka beans," and which are used in the

flavouring of snuff.

But of all the trees which our travellers saw on that day, none made

such an impression upon them as the "juvia," or Brazil-nut tree

(_Bertholletia excelsa_). This tree is not one with a thick trunk; in

fact, the largest ones are not three feet in diameter, but it rises to a

height of 120 feet. Its trunk is branchless for more than half that

height, and the branches then spread out and droop, like the fronds of

the palm. They are naked near their bases, but loaded towards the top

with tufts of silvery green leaves, each two feet in length. The tree

does not blossom until its fifteenth year, and then it bears

violet-coloured flowers; although there is another species, the

"sapucaya," which has yellow ones. But it is neither the trunk, nor the

branches, nor the leaves, nor yet the flowers of this tree, that render

it such an object of curiosity. It is the great woody and spherical

pericarps that contain the nuts or fruits that are wonderful. These are

often as large as the head of a child, and as hard as the shell of the

cocoa-nut! Inside is found a large number--twenty or more--of those

triangular-shaped nuts which you may buy at any Italian warehouse under

the name of "Brazil-nuts."

CHAPTER FORTY TWO.

THE FOREST FESTIVAL.

In consequence of their having rested but poorly on the preceding night,

it was determined that they should land at an early hour; and this they

did, choosing an open place on the shore. It was a very pretty spot,

and they could see that the woods in the background were comparatively

open, as though there were some meadows or prairies between. These

openings, however, had been caused by fire. There had been a growth of

cane. It had been burned off and as yet was not grown up again, though

the young reeds were making their appearance like a field of green

wheat. Some places, and especially near the river, the ground was still

bare. This change in the landscape was quite agreeable to our

travellers; so much so, that they resolved to exercise their limbs by

taking a short stroll; and, having finished their late dinner they set

out. They all went together, leaving the balza and camp to take care of

themselves.

After walking a few hundred yards their ears were assailed by a confused

noise, as if all the animals in the forest had met and were holding a

_conversazione_. Some low bushes prevented them from seeing what it

meant, but on pushing their way through, they saw whence and from what

sort of creatures the noise proceeded.

Standing out in the open ground was a large and tall juvia-tree. Its

spreading branches were loaded with great globes as big as human heads--

each one, of course, full of delicious nuts. These were now ripe, and

some of them had already fallen to the ground.

Upon the ground an odd scene presented itself to the eyes of our

travellers. Between birds and animals assembled there, there were not

less than a dozen kinds, all as busy as they could be.

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