one of the largest size, that our travellers now saw doing battle with
the caiman. The caiman was not one of large size, else the turtle would
have fled from it, not that even the largest caimans are feared by the
full-grown _carapas_. No; the strong plate-armour of the latter
protects them both from the teeth and tail of this antagonist. The
jaguar, with his pliable paws and sharp subtle claws, is to them a more
dreaded assailant than the crocodile or caiman.
The one in question was some six or seven feet long, and altogether not
much heavier than the turtle itself. It was not for the purpose of
eating each other they fought. No--their strife was evidently on other
grounds. No doubt the caiman had been attempting to plunder the
new-laid eggs of the tortoise, and the latter had detected him in the
act. At all events, the struggle must have been going on for some time,
for the sand was torn up, and scored, in many places, by the sharp claws
of both.
The battle appeared to be still at its height when our party arrived on
the spot. Neither tortoise nor caiman paid any attention to their
presence, but fought on pertinaciously. The aim of the caiman appeared
to be to get the head of the tortoise in his mouth; but whenever he
attempted this, the latter suddenly drew his head within the shell, and
repeatedly disappointed him. The tortoise, on its part, rose at
intervals upon its hind-feet, and making a dash forward, would dart
forth its long neck, and clutch at the softer parts of its antagonist's
body just under the throat. Several times it had succeeded in this
manoeuvre, and each time it had brought the piece with it, so that the
caiman was already somewhat mangled. Another manoeuvre of the tortoise
was to seize the tail of its antagonist. Instinct seemed to teach it
that this was a vulnerable part, and for the purpose of reaching the
tail, it constantly kept crawling and edging round towards it. Now,
there is no movement so difficult for a reptile of the crocodile kind as
to turn its body on dry land. The peculiar formation of the vertebrae,
both of its neck and spine, renders this movement difficult; and in
"changing front," the reptile is forced to describe a full circle with
its unwieldy body--in fact to turn "all of a piece." The tortoise,
therefore, had the advantage, and, after several efforts, he at length
succeeded in outflanking his antagonist, and getting right round to his
rear. He lost no time, but, raising himself to his full height and
making a dart forward, seized the tail and held on. He had caught by
the very tip, and it was seen that his horny mandibles had taken a
proper hold.
Now commenced a somewhat ludicrous scene. The caiman, though but a
small one, with the immense muscular power which he possessed in his
tail, if not able to detach his antagonist, was able to give him a sound
shaking, and the turtle was seen vibrating from side to side, dragged
along the sand. He held his broad yellow feet spread out on all sides,
so as to preserve his equilibrium, for he well knew that to lose that
would be to lose his life. Should he get turned on his back it would be
all over with him; but he carefully guarded against such a fatal
catastrophe. Of course there were intervals when the caiman became
tired, and remained still for a moment; and at each of these intervals
the tortoise renewed his hold, and, in fact, as our party now perceived,
was slowly, though surely, _eating the tail_!
When this had continued a short while, the great saurian seemed to
despair. The pain, no doubt, caused him to weep "crocodile's tears,"
though none were seen, but his eyes glared with a lurid light, and he
began to look around for some means of escape from his painful position.
His eyes fell upon the water. That promised something, although he
knew full well the turtle was as much at home there as he. At all
events, his situation could not be a worse one, and with this, or some
such reflection, he made a "dash" for the water. He was but a few feet
from it, but it cost him a good deal of pulling and dragging, and
clawing the sand, before he could get into it. In fact, the tortoise
knew that its position could not be benefited by the change, and would
have preferred fighting it out on dry land, and to do this he set his
claws as firmly as possible, and pulled the tail in the opposite
direction!
The strength of the caiman at length prevailed. He got his body into
the water, and, with a few strokes of his webbed feet, jerked the turtle
after, and both were now fairly launched. Once in the river, the caiman
seemed to gain fresh vigour. His tail vibrated violently and rapidly,
throwing the tortoise from side to side until the foam floated around
them, and then both suddenly sank to the bottom.
Whether they continued "attached," or became "separated" there, or
whether the turtle killed the lizard, or the lizard the turtle, or "each
did kill the other," no one ever knew, as it is highly probable that no
human eye ever saw either of them again.
At all events, no one of our party saw any more of them; and, having
watched the surface for some time, they turned in their steps and walked
back to the camp.
CHAPTER FORTY FIVE.
A PAIR OF VALIANT VULTURES.
They had got into a part of the river that seemed to be a favourite
resort with turtles and crocodiles, and creatures of that description.
At different times they saw turtles of different kinds; among others,
the "painted turtle," a beautiful species that derives its names from
the fine colouring of its shell, which appears as if it had been painted
in enamel. Of crocodiles, too, they saw three or four distinct species,
and not unfrequently, the largest of all, the great black crocodile
(_Jacare nigra_). This was sometimes seen of the enormous length of
over twenty feet! Terrible-looking as these crocodiles are, they are
not masters of every creature upon the river. There are even birds that
can sorely vex them, and compel them to take to the water to save
themselves from a fearful calamity--blindness.
One day, while descending the river, our travellers were witness to an
illustration of this.
They were passing a wide sand-bank that shelved back from the river,
with a scarcely perceptible slope, when they saw, at a distance of about
two hundred yards from the water's edge, a crocodile making for the
river. He looked as though he had just awoke from his torpid sleep, for
his body was caked all over with dry mud, and he seemed both hungry and
thirsty. It was like enough he was coming from some inland pond, where
the water had dried up, and he was now on his way to the river.
All at once two dark shadows were seen passing over the white surface of
the sand-bank. In the heaven two large birds were wheeling about,
crossing each other in their courses, and holding their long necks
downwards, as if the crocodile was the object of their regard.
The latter, on seeing them, paused; and lowered his body into a squatted
or crouching attitude, as if in the birds he recognised an enemy. And
yet what could such a large creature fear from a pair of "king
vultures?" for king vultures they were, as was easily seen by their
red-orange heads and cream-coloured plumage. What could a crocodile,
full ten feet long, fear from these, even had they been eagles, or the
great condor himself? No matter; he was evidently frightened at them;
and each time that they drew near in their flight, he stopped and
flattened his body against the sand, as if that might conceal him. As
soon as they flew off again to a more distant point of their aerial
circle, he would once more elevate himself on his arms, and make all
haste toward the water.
He had got within about an hundred yards of the river, when the birds
made a sudden turn in the sky, and swooping down, alighted upon the sand
directly before the snout of the crocodile. The latter stopped again,
and kept his eyes fixed upon them. They did not leave him long to rest;
for one of them, making a few hops towards him, came so close, that it
might have been supposed the crocodile could have seized it in his jaws.
This, in fact, he attempted to do; but the wary bird threw up its broad
wings, and flapped to one side out of his reach. Meanwhile, the other
had hopped close up to his opposite shoulder; and while the crocodile
was engaged with the first one, this made a dash forward, aiming its
great open beak at the eye of the reptile. The crocodile parried the
thrust by a sudden turn of his head; but he had scarcely got round, when
the second vulture, watching its opportunity, rushed forward at the
other eye. It must have succeeded in pecking it, for the great lizard
roared out with the pain; and rushing forward a bit, writhed and lashed
the sand with his tail.
The vultures paid no attention to these demonstrations, but only kept
out of the way of the teeth and claws of their antagonist; and then,
when he became still again, both returned to the attack as before. One
after the other was seen dashing repeatedly forward--using both legs and
wings to effect their object, and each time darting out their great
beaks towards the eyes of the reptile. The head of the latter kept
continuously moving from side to side; but move where it would, the
beaks of the vultures were ready to meet it, and to pierce into the
sockets of those deep lurid eyes.
This terrible contest lasted all the time the balza was floating by. It
was a slow current at this place, and our travellers were a long time in
passing, so that they had a good opportunity of witnessing the strange
spectacle. Long after they had glided past, they saw that the conflict
continued. They could still perceive the black body of the reptile upon
the white sandbank, writhing and struggling, while the flapping wings of
the vultures showed that they still kept up their terrible attack. But
the head of the crocodile was no longer directed towards the water. At
the first onset the reptile had used every effort to retreat in that
direction. He knew that his only safety lay in getting into the river,
and sinking beyond the reach of his adversaries. At every interval
between their assaults, he had been seen to crawl forward, stopping only
when compelled to defend himself. Now, however, his head was seen
turned from the water; sometimes he lay parallel with the stream; and
sometimes he appeared to be heading back for the woods, while his
struggles and contortions betrayed the agony he was undergoing. But his
turning in this way was easily accounted for. He knew not in what
direction lay the river. He could no longer see. His eyes were
mutilated by the beaks of the birds. _He was blind_!
Guapo said the vultures would not leave him until they had made a meal
of his eyes, and that was all they wanted. He would then remain on
shore, perhaps without finding his way back to the water, and most
likely be attacked by jaguars, or other preying creatures, who could
conquer him the easier now that he was deprived of his sight!
As the balza glided on, Guapo told our travellers many strange stories
of crocodiles. He stated, what is well known to be true, that in the
rivers of South America many people are every year killed by these
ravenous creatures; in fact, far more than have ever fallen victims to
the salt-sea sharks. In some places they are much fiercer than in
others; but this may arise from different species being the inhabitants
of these different places. There is the true crocodile, with long sharp
snout, and large external tusks; and the caiman, with a snout broader
and more pike-shaped; and the former is a much more courageous and
man-eating creature. Both are often found in the same river; but they
do not associate together, but keep in distinct bands or societies; and
they are often mistaken for each other. This may account for the
difference of opinion that exists in regard to the fierceness of these
reptiles--many asserting that they are utterly harmless, and will not
attack man under any circumstances; while others, who have witnessed
their attacks, of course bearing testimony to the contrary. There are
many places in South America, where the natives will fearlessly enter a
lake or river known to be full of crocodiles, and drive these creatures
aside with a piece of a stick; but there are other districts where
nothing will tempt an Indian to swim across a river infested with these
reptiles. In the Amazon districts, in every Indian village, several
people may be seen who have been maimed by crocodiles. No wonder that
among author-travellers there should be such a difference of opinion.
Guapo stated, that when an Indian has been seized by a crocodile in its
great jaws, he has only one chance of escape, and that is, by thrusting
his fingers into the eyes of the reptile. This will invariably cause it
to let go its hold, and generally frighten it, so as to enable the
person to escape. It, of course, requires great presence of mind to
effect this, as the person who has been seized will himself be in great
pain from the tearing teeth of the monster, and, perhaps, will have been
drawn under the water, before he can gather his senses. But it has
often occurred that Indians, and even women, have escaped in this way.
The eyes of the crocodile are its most tender parts,--in fact, the only
parts that can be made to feel pain. A crocodile may be disabled by
cutting at the root of its tail, but it can only be frightened by an
attack upon the eyes; and this appears to be a well-known fact, not only
to the Indians, but to all its other enemies among the birds and
quadrupeds.
The young crocodiles are often attacked, and have their eyes pecked out,
by the small gallinazo or "zamuro" vultures (_aura_ and _cathartes_),
just in the same way that we have seen one of a larger size become the
victim of the more powerful king vultures (_Sarcoramphus papa_).
CHAPTER FORTY SIX.
THE "GAPO."
After many days of rafting our travellers arrived in a most singular
country. They were now approaching the mighty Amazon, and the river
upon which they had hitherto been travelling appeared to divide into
many branches, where it formed _deltas_ with the Amazon. Every day, and
sometimes two or three times in the day, they passed places where the
river forked, as though each branch passed round an island, but our
travellers perceived that these branches did not meet again; and they
conjectured that they all fell into the Amazon by separate embouchures.
They were often puzzled to know which one to take, as the main river was
not always broadest, and they might get into one that was not navigable
below. A curious region it was through which they passed; for, in fact,
they were now travelling in the country of the "Gapo."
What is the "Gapo?" you will ask. The "Gapo," then, is the name given
to vast tracts of country upon the Amazon and some of its tributary
streams, that are annually inundated, and remain under water for several
months in the year. It extends for hundreds of miles along the Amazon
itself, and up many of the rivers, its tributaries also, for hundreds of
miles.
But the whole country does not become one clear sheet of water, as is
the case with floods in other parts of the world. On the contrary, high
as is the flood, the tree-tops and their branches rise still higher, and
we have in the "Gapo" the extraordinary spectacle of a flooded forest,
thousands of square miles in extent!
In this forest the trees do not perish, but retain life and verdure. In
fact, the trees of this part are peculiar, most of them differing in
kind from the trees of any other region. There are species of palms
growing in the "Gapo" that are found nowhere else; and there are animals
and birds, too, that remain in this region during the whole season of
flood. It has been further asserted that there are tribes of "Gapo"
Indians, who live in the middle of the inundation, making their
dwellings upon the trees, and who can pass from branch to branch and
tree to tree almost as nimbly as monkeys. This may or may not be true.
It would not be a new thing, if true, for it is well known that the
Guarano Indians, at the mouth of the Orinoco, dwell among the tops of
the murichi palms (_Mauritia flexuosa_) during many months of the season
of flood. These people build platforms on the palms, and upon these
erect roofs, and sling their hammocks, and, with little fireplaces of
mud, are enabled to cook their provisions upon them. But they have
canoes, in which they are able to go from place to place, and capture
fish, upon which they principally subsist. The murichi palm furnishes
them with all the other necessaries of life.
This singular tree is one of the noblest of the palms. It rises to a
height of more than one hundred feet, and grows in immense _palmares_,
or palm-woods, often covering the bank of the river for miles. It is
one of those called "fan-palms,"--that is, the leaves, instead of being
pinnate or feathery, have long naked stalks, at the end of which the
leaflets spread out circularly, forming a shape like a fan. One of the
murichi leaves is a grand sight. The leaf-stalk, or petiole, is a foot
thick where it sprouts from the trunk; and before it reaches the
leaflets it is a solid beam of ten or twelve feet long, while the
circular fan or leaf itself is nine or ten in diameter! A single leaf
of the murichi palm is a full load for a man.
With a score of such leaves,--shining and ever verdant as they are,--at
the top of its column-like trunk, what a majestic tree is the murichi
palm!
But it is not more beautiful than useful. Its leaves, fruit, and stem,
are all put to some use in the domestic economy of the Indians. The
leaf-stalk, when dried, is light and elastic, like the quill of a bird--
owing to the thin, hard, outer covering and soft internal pith. Out of
the outer rind, when split off, the Indian makes baskets and
window-blinds. The pithy part is separated into laths, about half an
inch thick, with which window-shutters, boxes, bird-cages, partitions,
and even entire walls, are constructed. The epidermis of the leaves
furnishes the strings for hammocks and all kinds of cordage. From the
fruits a favourite beverage is produced, and these fruits are also
pleasant eating, somewhat resembling apples. They are in appearance
like pine-cones, of a red colour outside and yellow pulp. The trunk
itself furnishes a pith or marrow that can be used as sago; and out of
the wood the Indian cuts his buoyant canoe! In short, there are tribes
of Indians that not only live, in a literal sense, on the murichi palms,
but that almost subsist on them.
Although the flood had, to a considerable extent, subsided, the river in
most places was still beyond its banks; and this made it difficult for
our travellers to find a place for their night-camps. Several nights
they were obliged to sleep, as they best could, on the balza,--the
latter being secured to a tree. Sometimes, by pushing some distance up
the mouth of an "igaripe," or creek, they were able to find dry ground,
on which to encamp. During their passage through this labyrinth of
rivers, they travelled but very slowly, and their provisions were fast
running out. There was no chance for increasing their stock, as they
could not find either wild-hogs (peccaries) or capivaras. These
creatures, although they can swim well enough, would only be found upon
the banks of the river, when it returned within its proper channel.
Now and then Guapo brought down a parrot, a macaw, or an aracari, with
his blow-gun; but these were only temporary supplies. They had often
heard howling monkeys in the trees, but had not been able to see them;
and none of the party would have refused to eat roast-monkey now, as
they had all tried it and found it quite palatable. Guapo, blow-gun in
hand, was continually peering up among the tree-tops in search of
monkeys or other game. He was, at length, rewarded for his vigilance.
One night they had pushed the balza up an "igaripe" for a hundred yards
or so, where a dry bank gave them an opportunity of landing. The creek
itself was not much wider than the balza, and tall trees stood upon both
banks. In one or two places the thorny "jacitara" palm--which is a sort
of climbing plant, often hanging over the branches of other trees--
nearly reached across the stream. These curious palms had even to be
cautiously pushed to one side as the balza passed,--for the arrowy claws
upon them, if once hooked into the clothes of the passengers, would
either have dragged the latter from off the raft, or have torn out the
piece of cloth.
CHAPTER FORTY SEVEN.
THE ARAGUATOES.
Our party had passed several of these jacitaras, made the balza fast,
landed, and were just cooking their scanty supper, when they heard a
band of howling monkeys afar off in the woods. There was nothing
unusual in this; for these creatures are heard at all times among the
forests of the Amazon, especially at sunrise and before sunset, or
whenever there is any appearance of the approach of a rain-storm. Our
travellers would not have noticed their voices on this occasion, but
that they seemed to be approaching in that direction; and as they were
coming along the bank of the main river, Guapo concluded that on
arriving at the "igaripe," they would turn up it and pass near where the
balza was, and thus he might have them within reach of his gravatana.
It was certain they were coming down the river side--of course upon the
tree-tops, and would, no doubt, turn up as Guapo expected, for the trees
on the opposite side of the igaripe stood too far apart even for monkeys
to spring across.
After waiting for half-an-hour or so, the hideous howling of the monkeys
could be heard at no great distance, and they were taking the desired
route. In fact, in a few minutes after, the troop appeared upon some
tall trees that stood on the edge of the creek, not fifty yards from
where the balza was moored. They were large animals, of that lanky and
slender shape that characterises the prehensile-tailed monkeys; but
these were different from the _ateles_ already mentioned. They were
true howlers, as they had already proved by the cries they had been
uttering for the half-hour past. There are several species of howling
monkeys, as we have already stated. Those that had arrived on the
igaripe Guapo pronounced to be _araguatoes_. Their bodies are of a
reddish-brown colour on the body and shoulders, lighter underneath, and
their naked wrinkled faces are of a bluish black, and with very much of
the expression of an old man. Their hair is full and bushy, and gives
them some resemblance to a bear, whence their occasional name of
"bear-ape," and also their zoological designation, _Simia ursina_. The
araguato is full three feet without the tail, and that powerful member
is much longer. When the band made its appearance on the igaripe, they
were seen to come to a halt, all of them gathering into a great tree
that stood by the water's edge. This tree rose higher than the rest,
and the most of the monkeys having climbed among the top branches, were
visible from the balza. There were about fifty in the troop, and one
that seemed larger than any of the others appeared to act as leader.
Many of them were females, and there were not a few that had young ones,
which they carried upon their backs just as the Indian mothers and those
of other savage nations carry their children. Most of the little
monkeys lay along the backs of their mothers, clasping them around the
neck with their fore-arms, while their hind ones girdled the middle of
the body. But it was in their tails the little fellows seemed to place
most reliance. The top parts of these were firmly lapped around the
thick base of the tails of the old ones, and thus not only secured their
seat, but made it quite impossible for them to drop off. No force could
have shaken them from this hold, without dragging out their tails or
tearing their bodies to pieces. Indeed, it was necessary they should be
thus firmly seated, as the exertions of the mothers,--their quick
motions and long springing leaps from tree to tree--would otherwise have
been impossible.