JOURNEY CONTINUED.
July 4.--Since our arrival at the falls, we have repeatedly heard a
strange noise coming from the mountains, in a direction a little to the
north of west. It is heard at different periods of the day and night,
sometimes when the air is perfectly still and without a cloud; and
consists of one stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick
succession. It is loud, and resembles precisely the sound of a six-pound
piece of ordnance, at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees
frequently mentioned this noise, like thunder, which they said the
mountains made; but we had paid no attention to them, believing it to be
some superstition, or else a falsehood. The watermen also of the party
say that the Pawnees and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard
in the Black Mountains, to the westward of them. The solution of the
mystery, given by the philosophy of the watermen, is, that it is
occasioned by the bursting of the rich mines of silver confined within
the bosom of the mountain.[2]
"An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day: the buffaloes seem
to have withdrawn from our neighborhood. We contrived, however, to
spread a comfortable table in honor of the day; and in the evening gave
the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our stock."
VEGETATION.
"July 15.--We find the prickly-pear--one of the greatest beauties, as
well as one of the greatest inconveniences, of the plains--now in full
bloom. The sunflower too, a plant common to every part of the Missouri,
is here very abundant, and in bloom. The Indians of the Missouri, and
more especially those who do not cultivate maize, make great use of this
plant for bread, and in thickening their soup. They first parch, and
then pound it between two stones until it is reduced to a fine meal.
Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted; at
other times they add a sufficient proportion of marmow-fat to reduce it
to the consistency of common dough, and eat it in that manner. This last
composition we preferred to the rest, and thought it at that time very
palatable.
"There are also great quantities of red, purple, yellow, and black
currants. The currants are very pleasant to the taste, and much
preferable to those of our gardens. The fruit is not so acid, and has a
more agreeable flavor."
THE BIG-HORNED OR MOUNTAIN RAM.
"July 18.--This morning we saw a large herd of the big-horned animals,
who were bounding among the rocks in the opposite cliff with great
agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from all their enemies;
and the only danger they encounter is in wandering among these
precipices, where we should suppose it scarcely possible for any animal
to stand. A single false step would precipitate them at least five
hundred feet into the river.
"The game continues abundant. We killed to-day the largest male elk we
have yet seen. On placing it in its natural, erect position, we found
that it measured five feet three inches from the point of the hoof to
the top of the shoulder.
"The antelopes are yet lean. This fleet and quick-sighted animal is
generally the victim of its curiosity. When they first see the hunters,
they run with great velocity. If the hunter lies down on the ground, and
lifts up his arm, his hat, or his foot, the antelope returns on a light
trot to look at the object, and sometimes goes and returns two or three
times, till at last he approaches within reach of the rifle. So, too,
they sometimes leave their flock to go and look at the wolves, who
crouch down, and, if the antelope be frightened at first, repeat the
same manoeuvre, and sometimes relieve each other, till they decoy the
antelope from his party near enough to seize it."
THE GATES OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
"July 20.--During the day, in the confined valley through which we are
passing, the heat is almost insupportable; yet, whenever we obtain a
glimpse of the lofty tops of the mountains, we are tantalized with a
view of the snow. A mile and a half farther on, the rocks approach the
river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary spectacle.
For six miles, these rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge
to the height of nearly twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a
black granite near the base; but judging from its lighter color above,
and from fragments that have fallen from it, we suppose the upper part
to be flint, of a yellowish-brown and cream color. Nothing can be
imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of these rocks,
which project over the river, and menace us with destruction. The river,
one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems to have forced its channel
down this solid mass: but so reluctantly has it given way, that, during
the whole distance, the water is very deep even at the edges; and, for
the first three miles, there is not a spot, except one of a few yards in
extent, on which a man could stand between the water and the towering
perpendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the passage must have
been terrible; since, at its outlet, there are vast columns of rock torn
from the mountain, which are strewed on both sides of the river, the
trophies, as it were, of victory. We were obliged to go on some time
after dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on.
This extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky
Mountains."
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.
"July 29.--This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the
long-tailed red kind, which are the only kind we have found at this
place. There are numbers of the sandhill-cranes feeding in the meadows.
We caught a young one, which, though it had nearly attained its full
growth, could not fly. It is very fierce, and strikes a severe blow with
its beak. The kingfisher has become quite common this side of the falls;
but we have seen none of the summer duck since leaving that place. Small
birds are also abundant in the plains. Here, too, are great quantities
of grasshoppers, or crickets; and, among other animals, large ants, with
a reddish-brown body and legs, and a black head, which build little
cones of gravel ten or twelve inches high, without a mixture of sticks,
and with but little earth. In the river we see a great abundance of
fish, but cannot tempt them to bite by any thing on our hooks."
THE FORKS OF THE MISSOURI.
"July 28, 1805.--From the height of a limestone cliff, Capt. Lewis
observed the three forks of the Missouri, of which this river is one.
The middle and south-west forks unite at half a mile above the entrance
of the south-east fork. The country watered by these rivers, as far as
the eye could command, was a beautiful combination of meadow and
elevated plain, covered with a rich grass, and possessing more timber
than is usual on the Missouri. A range of high mountains, partially
covered with snow, is seen at a considerable distance, running from
south to west.
"To the south-east fork the name of Gallatin was assigned, in honor of
the Secretary of the Treasury. On examining the other two streams, it
was difficult to decide which was the larger or real Missouri: they are
each ninety yards wide, and similar in character and appearance. We were
therefore induced to discontinue the name of Missouri, and to give to
the south-west branch the name of Jefferson, in honor of the President
of the United States and the projector of the enterprise; and called the
middle branch Madison, after James Madison, Secretary of State.
"July 30.--We reloaded our canoes, and began to ascend Jefferson River.
The river soon became very crooked; the current, too, is rapid, impeded
with shoals, which consist of coarse gravel. The islands are numerous.
On the 7th of August, we had, with much fatigue, ascended the river
sixty miles, when we reached the junction of a stream from the
north-west, which we named Wisdom River. We continued, however, to
ascend the south-east branch, which we were satisfied was the true
continuation of the Jefferson."
THE SHOSHONEES, OR SNAKE INDIANS.
"July 28.--We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After
advancing for several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous
country, we may soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no
information of the route, we may be unable to find a passage across the
mountains when we reach the head of the river, at least such an one as
will lead us to the Columbia. And, even were we so fortunate as to find
a branch of that river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these
mountains does not promise us any wood fit to make canoes; so that our
chief dependence is on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure
horses.
"Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the
precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts
five years ago, when the Minnetarees came upon them, killed most of the
party, and carried her away prisoner. She does not, however, show any
distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being
restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly, or the
philosophy, of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety
of having plenty to eat, and trinkets to wear.
"Aug. 9.--Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to
cross the mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in
the morning to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains till
he found the Shoshonees, or some other nation, who could assist us in
transporting our baggage. Immediately after breakfast, Capt. Lewis took
Drewyer, Shields, and McNeal; and, slinging their knapsacks, they set
out, with a resolution to meet some nation of Indians before they
returned, however long it might be.
"Aug. 11.--It was not till the third day after commencing their search
that they met with any success. Capt. Lewis perceived with the greatest
delight, at the distance of two miles, a man on horseback coming towards
them. On examining him with the glass, Capt. Lewis saw that he was of a
different nation from any we had hitherto met. He was armed with a bow
and a quiver of arrows, and mounted on an elegant horse without a
saddle; while a small string, attached to the under-jaw, answered as a
bridle. Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much our
success depended upon the friendly offices of that nation, Capt. Lewis
was anxious to approach without alarming him. He therefore advanced
towards the Indian at his usual pace. When they were within a mile of
each other, the Indian suddenly stopped. Capt. Lewis immediately
followed his example; took his blanket from his knapsack, and, holding
it with both hands at the two corners, threw it above his head, and
unfolded it as he brought it to the ground, as if in the act of
spreading it. This signal, which originates in the practice of spreading
a robe or a skin as a seat for guests to whom they wish to show
kindness, is the universal sign of friendship among the Indians. As
usual, Capt. Lewis repeated this signal three times. Still the Indian
kept his position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer and
Shields, who were now advancing on each side. Capt. Lewis was afraid to
make any signal for them to halt, lest he should increase the suspicions
of the Indian, who began to be uneasy; and they were too distant to hear
his voice. He therefore took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass,
and a few trinkets, which he had brought for the purpose; and, leaving
his gun, advanced unarmed towards the Indian, who remained in the same
position till Capt. Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he
turned his horse, and began to move off slowly. Capt. Lewis then called
out to him, as loud as he could, 'Tabba bone,'--which, in the Shoshonee
language, means _White man_; but, looking over his shoulder, the Indian
kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, till
Capt. Lewis made a signal to them to halt. This, Drewyer obeyed; but
Shields did not observe it, and still went forward. The Indian, seeing
Drewyer halt, turned his horse about, as if to wait for Capt. Lewis, who
had now reached within one hundred and fifty paces, repeating the words,
'Tabba bone,' and holding up the trinkets in his hand; at the same time
stripping up his sleeve to show that he was white. The Indian suffered
him to advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly turned his horse,
and, giving him the whip, leaped across the creek, and disappeared in an
instant among the willows. They followed his track four miles, but could
not get sight of him again, nor find any encampment to which he
belonged.
"Meanwhile the party in the canoes advanced slowly up the river till
they came to a large island, to which they gave the name of
Three-thousand-mile Island, on account of its being at that distance
from the mouth of the Missouri."
FOOTNOTE:
[2] There are many stories, from other sources, confirmatory of these
noises in mountainous districts. One solution, suggested by
Humboldt,--who does not, however, record the fact as of his own
observation,--is, that "this curious phenomenon announces a
disengagement of hydrogen, produced by a bed of coal in a state of
combustion." This solution is applicable only to mountains which contain
coal, unless chemical changes in other minerals might be supposed
capable of producing a similar effect.