THE MARCH RESUMED.
From the 1st of November, 1804, to the 1st of April, 1805, the
expedition remained stationary at their fort. Some of their number had
been sent back to the States with despatches to the Government, and with
specimens of the natural productions of the country. On resuming their
march on the 4th of April, the party consisted of thirty-two persons.
Besides the commanders, there were three sergeants,--Ordway, Prior, and
Gass; twenty-three privates, besides Capt. Clark's black servant York;
two interpreters,--George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife of
Chaboneau, an Indian woman, with her young child, accompanied her
husband. All this party, with the luggage, was stored in six small
canoes and two pirogues. They left the fort with fair weather, and,
after making four miles, encamped on the north side of the river, nearly
opposite the first Mandan village. We continue their journal.
THE RIVER-SHORE.
"April 8.--The river-banks exhibit indications of volcanic agency. The
bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards of one hundred feet high,
composed of yellow clay and sand, with horizontal strata of carbonated
wood resembling pit-coal, from one to five feet in thickness, scattered
through the bluff at different elevations. Great quantities of
pumice-stone and lava are seen in many parts of the hills, where they
are broken and washed into gullies by the rain. We passed a bluff which
is on fire, and throws out quantities of smoke, which has a strong,
sulphurous smell. On the sides of the hills is a white substance, which
appears in considerable quantities on the surface, and tastes like a
mixture of common salt with Glauber salts. Many of the springs which
come from the foot of the hills are so impregnated with this substance,
that the water has an unpleasant taste, and a purgative effect."
THE PRAIRIE-MICE.
"April, 1805.--We saw, but could not procure, an animal that burrows in
the ground, similar to the burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only
one-third of its size. This may be the animal whose works we have often
seen in the plains and prairies. They consist of a little hillock of ten
or twelve pounds of loose earth, which would seem to have been reversed
from a flower-pot; and no aperture is seen in the ground from which it
could have been brought. On removing gently the earth, you discover that
the soil has been broken in a circle of about an inch and a half in
diameter, where the ground is looser, though still no opening is
perceptible. When we stopped for dinner, the Indian woman went out, and,
penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the mice, brought a quantity
of wild artichokes, which the mice collect, and hoard in large
quantities. The root is white, of an ovate form, from one to three
inches long, and generally of the size of a man's finger; and two, four,
and sometimes six roots are attached to a single stalk. Its flavor, as
well as the stalk that issues from it, resemble those of the Jerusalem
artichoke, except that the latter is much larger."
THE YELLOW-STONE RIVER.
"Certain signs, known to the hunters, induced them to believe that we
were at no great distance from the Yellow-stone River. In order to
prevent delay, Capt. Lewis determined to go on by land in search of
that river, and make the necessary observations, so as to enable us to
proceed immediately after the boats should join him.
"On leaving the party, he pursued his route along the foot of the hills;
ascending which, the wide plains watered by the Missouri and the
Yellow-stone spread themselves before his eye, occasionally varied with
the wood of the banks, enlivened by the windings of the two rivers, and
animated by vast herds of buffaloes, deer, elk, and antelope."
NATURAL HISTORY.
"May, 1805.--We reached the mouth of a river flowing from the north,
which, from the unusual number of porcupines near it, we called
Porcupine River. These animals are so careless and clumsy, that we can
approach very near without disturbing them as they are feeding on the
young willows. The porcupine is common in all parts of the territory,
and for its quills is held in high estimation by the Indians. It is
interesting to see with how much ingenuity, and in how many various
forms, the Indians manufacture these quills into ornamental work, such
as moccasons, belts, and various other articles."
WOLVES.
"The wolves are very numerous, and of two species. First, the small
wolf, or burrowing dog of the prairies, which is found in almost all the
open plains. It is of an intermediate size, between the fox and dog,
very delicately formed, fleet and active. The ears are large, erect, and
pointed; the head long and pointed, like that of a fox; the tail long
and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish-brown, and much coarser
than that of the fox. These animals usually associate in bands of ten or
twelve, and are rarely, if ever, seen alone; not being able singly to
attack a deer or antelope. They live, and rear their young, in burrows,
which they fix near some pass much frequented by game, and sally out in
a body against any animal which they think they can overpower, but, on
the slightest alarm, retreat to their burrows, making a noise exactly
like that of a small dog.
"The second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker, than the
Atlantic wolf. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; and they
frequent the woods and plains, and skulk along the herds of buffaloes,
in order to attack the weary or wounded."
ELK.
"Among the animals of the deer kind, the elk is the largest and most
majestic. It combines beauty with magnitude and strength; and its large,
towering horns give it an imposing appearance. Its senses are so keen in
apprehension, that it is difficult to be approached; and its speed in
flight is so great, that it mocks the chase. Its flesh resembles beef,
but is less highly flavored, and is much sought for by the Indians and
hunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used in articles of clothing and
for moccasons."
BEAVERS.
"We saw many beavers to-day. The beaver seems to contribute very much to
the widening of the river and the formation of islands. They begin by
damming up the channels of about twenty yards width between the islands.
This obliges the river to seek another outlet; and, as soon as this is
effected, the channel stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and
sand. The industrious animal is thus driven to another channel, which
soon shares the same fate; till the river spreads on all sides, and cuts
the projecting points of land into islands.
"The beaver dams differ in shape, according to the nature of the place
in which they are built. If the water in the river or creek have but
little motion, the dam is almost straight; but, when the current is more
rapid, it is always made with a considerable curve, convex toward the
stream. The materials made use of are drift-wood, green willows, birch,
and poplars, if they can be got; also mud and stones, intermixed in such
a manner as must evidently contribute to the strength of the dam. In
places which have been long frequented by beavers undisturbed, their
dams, by frequent repairing, become a solid bank, capable of resisting a
great force both of water and ice; and as the willow, poplar, and birch
generally take root, and shoot up, they, by degrees, form a kind of
regular planted hedge, in some places so tall that birds build their
nests among the branches. The beaver-houses are constructed of the same
materials as their dams, and are always proportioned in size to the
number of inhabitants, which seldom exceeds four old and six or eight
young ones. The houses are of a much ruder construction than their dams:
for, notwithstanding the sagacity of these animals, it has never been
observed that they aim at any other convenience in their house than to
have a dry place to lie on; and there they usually eat their victuals,
such as they take out of the water. Their food consists of roots of
plants, like the pond-lily, which grows at the bottom of the lakes and
rivers. They also eat the bark of trees, particularly those of the
poplar, birch, and willow.
"The instinct of the beavers leading them to live in associations, they
are in an unnatural position, when, in any locality, their numbers are
so much reduced as to prevent their following this instinct. The beaver
near the settlement is sad and solitary: his works have been swept away,
his association broken up, and he is reduced to the necessity of
burrowing in the river-bank, instead of building a house for himself.
Such beavers are called 'terriers.' One traveller says that these
solitaries are also called 'old bachelors.'"
THE WHITE, BROWN, OR GRISLY BEAR.
"April 29.--All these names are given to the same species, which
probably changes in color with the season, or with the time of life. Of
the strength and ferocity of this animal, the Indians give dreadful
accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or eight persons,
and, even then, are often defeated with the loss of some of the party.
"May 18.--One of our men who had been suffered to go ashore came running
to the boats with cries and every symptom of terror. As soon as he could
command his breath, he told us, that, about a mile below, he had shot a
white bear, which immediately turned and ran towards him, but, being
wounded, had not been able to overtake him. Capt. Lewis, with seven men,
went in search of the bear, and, having found his track, followed him by
the blood for a mile, came up with him, and shot him with two balls
through the skull. He was a monstrous animal, and a most formidable
enemy. Our man had shot him through the centre of the lungs: yet the
bear had pursued him furiously for half a mile; then returned more than
twice that distance, and, with his talons, dug himself a bed in the
earth, two feet deep and five feet long, and was perfectly alive when
they found him, which was at least two hours after he received the
wound. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men;
and the oil amounted to eight gallons.
"The wonderful power of life of these animals, added to their great
strength, renders them very formidable. Their very track in the mud or
sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and a
quarter wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather
encounter two Indians than a single brown bear. There is no chance of
killing them by a single shot, unless the ball is sent through the
brain; and this is very difficult to be done, on account of two large
muscles which cover the side of the forehead, and the sharp projection
of the frontal bone, which is very thick."
NOTE.
Their strength is astonishingly great. Lieut. Stein of the
dragoons, a man of undoubted veracity, told me he saw some
buffaloes passing near some bushes where a grisly bear lay
concealed: the bear, with one stroke, tore three ribs from a
buffalo, and left it dead.--_Parker._
Although endowed with such strength, and powers of destruction,
the grisly bear is not disposed to begin the attack. Mr.
Drummond, a later traveller, states, that, in his excursions
over the Rocky Mountains, he had frequent opportunity of
observing the manners of these animals; and it often happened,
that in turning the point of a rock, or sharp angle of a
valley, he came suddenly upon one or more of them. On such
occasions they reared on their hind-legs, and made a loud noise
like a person breathing quick, but much harsher. He kept his
ground, without attempting to molest them; and they on their
part, after attentively regarding him for some time, generally
wheeled round, and galloped off: though, from their known
disposition, there is little doubt but he would have been torn
in pieces, had he lost his presence of mind and attempted to
fly. When he discovered them at a distance, he often frightened
them away by beating on a large tin box in which he carried his
specimens of plants.
THE BLACK BEAR.
"The black bear, common in the United States, is scarcely more than half
the size of the grisly bear. Its favorite food is berries of various
kinds; but, when these are not to be procured, it lives upon roots,
insects, fish, eggs, and such birds and quadrupeds as it can surprise.
It passes the winter in a torpid state, selecting a spot for its den
under a fallen tree, and, having scratched away a portion of the soil,
retires to the place at the commencement of a snow storm, when the snow
soon furnishes it with a close, warm covering. Its breath makes a small
opening in the den, and the quantity of hoar-frost which gathers round
the hole serves to betray its retreat to the hunter. In more southern
districts, where the timber is of larger size, bears often shelter
themselves in hollow trees."
BUFFALOES.
"The buffalo is about as large as our domestic cattle; and their long,
shaggy, woolly hair, which covers their head, neck, and shoulders,
gives them a formidable appearance, and, at a distance, something like
that of the lion. In many respects, they resemble our horned cattle; are
cloven-footed, chew the cud, and select the same kind of food. Their
flesh is in appearance and taste much like beef, but of superior flavor.
Their heads are formed like the ox, perhaps a little more round and
broad; and, when they run, they carry them rather low. Their horns,
ears, and eyes, as seen through their shaggy hair, appear small, and,
cleared from their covering, are not large. Their legs and feet are
small and trim; the fore-legs covered with the long hair of the
shoulders, as low down as the knee. Though their figure is clumsy in
appearance, they run swiftly, and for a long time without much
slackening their speed; and, up steep hills or mountains, they more than
equal the best horses. They unite in herds, and, when feeding, scatter
over a large space; but, when fleeing from danger, they collect into
dense columns: and, having once laid their course, they are not easily
diverted from it, whatever may oppose. So far are they from being a
fierce or revengeful animal, that they are very shy and timid; and in no
case did we see them offer to make an attack but in self-defence, and
then they always sought the first opportunity to escape. When they run,
they lean alternately from side to side. They are fond of rolling upon
the ground like horses, which is not practised by our domestic cattle.
This is so much their diversion, that large places are found without
grass, and considerably excavated by them."
NOTE. Rev. Mr. Parker thus describes a buffalo-hunt:--
"To-day we unexpectedly saw before us a large herd of
buffaloes. All halted to make preparation for the chase. The
young men, and all the good hunters, prepared themselves,
selected the swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had,
and also took a supply of arrows with their bows. They advanced
towards the herd of buffaloes with great caution, lest they
should frighten them before they should make a near approach,
and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase,
when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisition.
When the buffaloes took the alarm, and fled, the rush was made,
each Indian selecting for himself the one to which he happened
to come nearest. All were in swift motion, scouring the valley.
A cloud of dust began to rise; firing of guns, and shooting of
arrows, followed in close succession. Soon, here and there,
buffaloes were seen prostrated; and the women, who followed
close in the rear, began the work of securing the acquisition,
and the men were away again in pursuit of the flying herd.
Those in the chase, when as near as two rods, shoot and wheel,
expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses
seemed to understand the way to avoid danger. As soon as the
wounded animal flies again, the chase is renewed; and such is
the alternate wheeling and chasing, until the buffalo sinks
beneath his wounds."
INDIAN METHOD OF HUNTING THE BUFFALO.
"May 30, 1805.--We passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet
high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least a hundred
carcasses of buffaloes. These buffaloes had been chased down the
precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, and by which vast herds
are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to select one of the
most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a buffalo-skin
round his body; the skin of the head, with the ears and horns, fastened
on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloes. Thus dressed,
he fixes himself at a convenient distance between a herd of buffaloes
and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for some miles.
His companions, in the mean time, get in the rear and side of the herd,
and, at a given signal, show themselves, and advance towards the
buffaloes. They instantly take the alarm; and, finding the hunters
beside them, they run toward the disguised Indian, or decoy, who leads
them on, at full speed, toward the river; when, suddenly securing
himself in some crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on,
the herd is left on the brink of the precipice. It is then in vain for
the foremost to retreat, or even to stop. They are pressed on by the
hindmost rank, who, seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those
before them, till the whole are precipitated over the cliff, and the
shore is covered with their dead bodies. Sometimes, in this perilous
adventure, the Indian decoy is either trodden under foot, or, missing
his footing in the cliff, is urged down the precipice by the falling
herd."
WHICH IS THE TRUE RIVER?
"June 3, 1805.--We came to for the night, for the purpose of examining
in the morning a large river which enters opposite to us. It now became
an interesting question, which of those two streams is what the Indians
call Ahmateahza, or the Missouri, which, they tell us, has its head
waters very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate
of the expedition depends; since, if, after ascending to the Rocky
Mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we have been
tracing does not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to turn back,
we shall have lost the travelling season, and seriously disheartened
our men. We determined, therefore, to examine well before deciding on
our course, and, for this purpose, despatched two canoes with three men
up each of the streams, with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and
rapidity of the currents, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of
water. Parties were also sent out by land to penetrate the country, and
discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of
the two rivers. While they were gone, the two commanders ascended
together the high grounds in the fork of the two rivers, whence they had
an extensive prospect of the surrounding country. On every side, it was
spread into one vast plain covered with verdure, in which innumerable
herds of buffaloes were roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves.
Some flocks of elk also were seen; and the solitary antelopes were
scattered, with their young, over the plain. The direction of the rivers
could not be long distinguished, as they were soon lost in the extent of
the plain.
"On our return, we continued our examination. The width of the north
branch is two hundred yards; that of the south is three hundred and
seventy-two. The north, though narrower, is deeper than the south: its
waters also are of the same whitish-brown color, thickness, and
turbidness as the Missouri. They run in the same boiling and roaring
manner which has uniformly characterized the Missouri; and its bed is
composed of some gravel, but principally mud. The south fork is broader,
and its waters are perfectly transparent. The current is rapid, but the
surface smooth and unruffled; and its bed is composed of round and flat
smooth stones, like those of rivers issuing from a mountainous country.
"In the evening, the exploring parties returned, after ascending the
rivers in canoes for some distance, then continuing on foot, just
leaving themselves time to return by night. Their accounts were far from
deciding the important question of our future route; and we therefore
determined each of us to ascend one of the rivers during a day and a
half's march, or farther, if necessary for our satisfaction.
"Tuesday, June 4, 1805.--This morning, Capt. Lewis and Capt. Clarke set
out, each with a small party, by land, to explore the two rivers. Capt.
Lewis traced the course of the north fork for fifty-nine miles, and
found, that, for all that distance, its direction was northward; and, as
the latitude we were now in was 47 deg. 24', it was highly improbable,
that, by going farther north, we should find between this and the
Saskatchawan any stream which can, as the Indians assure us the Missouri
does, possess a navigable current for some distance within the Rocky
Mountains.
"These considerations, with others drawn from the observations of Capt.
Clarke upon the south branch, satisfied the chiefs that the South River
was the true Missouri; but the men generally were of a contrary opinion,
and much of their belief depended upon Crusatte, an experienced waterman
on the Missouri, who gave it as his opinion that the north fork was the
main river. In order that nothing might be omitted which could prevent
our falling into error, it was agreed that one of us should ascend the
southern branch by land until he reached either the falls or the
mountains. In the mean time, in order to lighten our burdens as much as
possible, we determined to deposit here all the heavy baggage which we
could possibly spare, as well as some provisions, salt, powder, and
tools. The weather being fair, we dried all our baggage and merchandise,
and made our deposit, or cache. Our cache is made in this manner: In the
high plain on the side of the river, we choose a dry situation, and,
drawing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter, remove the sod
as carefully as possible. The hole is then sunk perpendicularly a foot
deep, or more if the ground be not firm. It is now worked gradually
wider as it deepens, till at length it becomes six or seven feet deep,
shaped nearly like a kettle, or the lower part of a large still, with
the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As the earth is dug, it is
carefully laid on a skin or cloth, in which it is carried away, and
thrown into the river, so as to leave no trace of it. A floor to the
cache is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown hay, or a hide
perfectly dry. The goods, being well aired and dried, are laid on this
floor, and prevented from touching the sides by other dried sticks, as
the baggage is stowed away. When the hole is nearly full, a skin is laid
over the goods; and, on this, earth is thrown, and beaten down, until,
with the addition of the sod, the whole is on a level with the ground,
and there remains no appearance of an excavation. Careful measurements
are taken to secure the ready recovery of the cache on the return; and
the deposit is left in perfect confidence of finding every thing safe
and sound after the lapse of months, or even years."
THE FALLS OF THE MISSOURI.
"June 12.--This morning, Capt. Lewis set out with four men on an
exploration, to ascend the southern branch, agreeably to our plan. He
left the bank of the river in order to avoid the deep ravines, which
generally extend from the shore to a distance of two or three miles in
the plain. On the second day, having travelled about sixty miles from
the point of departure, on a sudden their ears were saluted with the
agreeable sound of falling water; and, as they advanced, a spray which
seemed driven by the wind rose above the plain like a column of smoke,
and vanished in an instant. Towards this point, Capt. Lewis directed his
steps; and the noise, increasing as he approached, soon became too
powerful to be ascribed to any thing but the Great Falls of the
Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound, he
reached the falls. The hills, as he approached the river, were difficult
of transit, and two hundred feet high. Down these he hurried, and,
seating himself on a rock, enjoyed the spectacle of this stupendous
object, which, ever since the creation, had been lavishing its
magnificence upon the desert, unseen by civilized man.
"The river, immediately at its cascade, is three hundred yards wide, and
is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff, which rises to about one hundred
feet, and extends up the stream for a mile. On the other side, the bluff
is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. For
ninety or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one
smooth, even sheet, over a precipice eighty feet in height. The
remaining part of the river rushes with an accelerated current, but,
being received as it falls by irregular rocks below, forms a brilliant
spectacle of perfectly white foam, two hundred yards in length, and
eighty in height. The spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, on all
of which the sun impresses the brightest colors of the rainbow. The
principal cascade is succeeded by others of less grandeur, but of
exceeding beauty and great variety, for about twenty miles in
extent."[1]
A PORTAGE.
"June 21.--Having reached the falls, we found ourselves obliged to get
past them by transporting our boats overland by what is called a
_portage_. The distance was eighteen miles. It was necessary to
construct a truck or carriage to transport the boats; and the making of
the wheels and the necessary framework took ten days. The axle-trees,
made of an old mast, broke repeatedly, and the cottonwood tongues gave
way; so that the men were forced to carry as much baggage as they could
on their backs. The prickly pear annoyed them much by sticking through
their moccasons. It required several trips to transport all the canoes
and baggage; and, though the men put double soles to their moccasons,
the prickly pear, and the sharp points of earth formed by the trampling
of the buffaloes during the late rains, wounded their feet; and, as the
men were laden as heavily as their strength would permit, the crossing
was very painful. They were obliged to halt and rest frequently; and, at
almost every stopping-place, they would throw themselves down, and fall
asleep in an instant. Yet no one complained, and they went on with
cheerfulness.
"Having decided to leave here one of the pirogues, we set to work to fit
up a boat of skins, upon a frame of iron which had been prepared at the
armory at Harper's Ferry. It was thirty-six feet long, four feet and a
half wide at top, and twenty-six inches wide at bottom. It was with
difficulty we found the necessary timber to complete it, even tolerably
straight sticks, four and a half feet long. The sides were formed of
willow-bark, and, over this, elk and buffalo skins."
A NARROW ESCAPE.
"June 29.--Capt. Clarke, having lost some notes and remarks which he had
made on first ascending the river, determined to go up along its banks
in order to supply the deficiency. He had reached the falls, accompanied
by his negro-servant York, and by Chaboneau, the half-breed Indian
interpreter, and his wife with her young child. On his arrival there, he
observed a dark cloud in the west, which threatened rain; and looked
around for some shelter. About a quarter of a mile above the falls he
found a deep ravine, where there were some shelving rocks, under which
they took refuge. They were perfectly sheltered from the rain, and
therefore laid down their guns, compass, and other articles which they
carried with them. The shower was at first moderate; it then increased
to a heavy rain, the effects of which they did not feel. Soon after, a
torrent of rain and hail descended. The rain seemed to fall in a solid
mass, and, instantly collecting in the ravine, came rolling down in a
dreadful torrent, carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that
opposed it. Capt. Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it reached
them, and springing up, with his gun in his left hand, with his right he
clambered up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child
in her arms. Her husband, too, had seized her hand, and was pulling her
up the hill, but was so terrified at the danger, that, but for Capt.
Clarke, he would have been lost, with his wife and child. So
instantaneous was the rise of the water, that, before Capt. Clarke had
secured his gun and begun to ascend the bank, the water was up to his
waist; and he could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached
the height of fifteen feet, with a furious current, which, had they
waited a moment longer, would have swept them into the river, just above
the falls, down which they must inevitably have been carried. As it was,
Capt. Clarke lost his compass, Chaboneau his gun, shot-pouch, and
tomahawk; and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child before
the net in which it lay was carried down the current."
PROGRESS RESUMED.
"July 4.--The boat was now completed, except what was in fact the most
difficult part,--the making her seams secure. Having been unsuccessful
in all our attempts to procure tar, we have formed a composition of
pounded charcoal with beeswax and buffalo-tallow to supply its place. If
this resource fail us, it will be very unfortunate, as, in every other
respect, the boat answers our purpose completely. Although not quite
dry, she can be carried with ease by five men: she is very strong, and
will carry a load of eight thousand pounds, with her complement of men.
"July 9.--The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave it a coat
of the composition, then a second, and launched it into the water. She
swam perfectly well. The seats were then fixed, and the oars fitted. But
after a few hours' exposure to the wind, which blew with violence, we
discovered that nearly all the composition had separated from the skins,
so that she leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch
was impossible; and, as none of that article was to be procured, we were
obliged to abandon her, after having had so much labor in the
construction.
"It now becomes necessary to provide other means for transporting the
baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose, we shall
want two canoes; but for many miles we have not seen a single tree fit
to be used for that purpose. The hunters, however, report that there is
a low ground about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice
that distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large
enough. Capt. Clarke has therefore determined to set out by land for
that place, with ten of the best workmen, who will be occupied in
building the canoes, till the rest of the party, after taking the boat
to pieces and making the necessary deposits, shall transport the
baggage, and join them with the other six canoes.
"Capt. Clarke accordingly proceeded on eight miles by land; the distance
by water being twenty-three miles. Here he found two cottonwood-trees,
and proceeded to convert them into boats. The rest of the party took the
iron boat to pieces, and deposited it in a _cache_, or hole, with some
other articles of less importance.
"July 11.--Sergeant Ordway, with four canoes and eight men, set sail in
the morning to the place where Capt. Clarke had fixed his camp. The
canoes were unloaded and sent back, and the remainder of the baggage in
a second trip was despatched to the upper camp.
"July 15.--We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes,
which, though eight in number, were heavily laden, and at ten o'clock
set out on our journey.
"July 16.--We had now arrived at the point where the Missouri emerges
from the Rocky Mountains. The current of the river becomes stronger as
we advance, and the spurs of the mountain approach towards the river,
which is deep, and not more than seventy yards wide. The low grounds are
now but a few yards in width; yet they furnish room for an Indian road,
which winds under the hills on the north side of the river. The general
range of these hills is from south-east to north-west; and the cliffs
themselves are about eight hundred feet above the water, formed almost
entirely of a hard black rock, on which are scattered a few dwarf pine
and cedar trees.
"As the canoes were heavily laden, all the men not employed in working
them walked on shore. The navigation is now very laborious. The river is
deep, but with little current; the low grounds are very narrow; the
cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much, that, in places, we
could not pass them, but were obliged to cross and recross from one side
of the river to the other in order to make our way."
FOOTNOTE:
[1] Dimensions of Niagara Falls,--American, 960 feet wide, 162 feet
high; English, 700 feet wide, 150 feet high.