CHAPTER VI.

THE MARCH RESUMED.

From the 1st of November, 1804, to the 1st of April, 1805, the

expedition remained stationary at their fort. Some of their number had

been sent back to the States with despatches to the Government, and with

specimens of the natural productions of the country. On resuming their

march on the 4th of April, the party consisted of thirty-two persons.

Besides the commanders, there were three sergeants,--Ordway, Prior, and

Gass; twenty-three privates, besides Capt. Clark's black servant York;

two interpreters,--George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife of

Chaboneau, an Indian woman, with her young child, accompanied her

husband. All this party, with the luggage, was stored in six small

canoes and two pirogues. They left the fort with fair weather, and,

after making four miles, encamped on the north side of the river, nearly

opposite the first Mandan village. We continue their journal.

THE RIVER-SHORE.

"April 8.--The river-banks exhibit indications of volcanic agency. The

bluffs which we passed to-day are upwards of one hundred feet high,

composed of yellow clay and sand, with horizontal strata of carbonated

wood resembling pit-coal, from one to five feet in thickness, scattered

through the bluff at different elevations. Great quantities of

pumice-stone and lava are seen in many parts of the hills, where they

are broken and washed into gullies by the rain. We passed a bluff which

is on fire, and throws out quantities of smoke, which has a strong,

sulphurous smell. On the sides of the hills is a white substance, which

appears in considerable quantities on the surface, and tastes like a

mixture of common salt with Glauber salts. Many of the springs which

come from the foot of the hills are so impregnated with this substance,

that the water has an unpleasant taste, and a purgative effect."

THE PRAIRIE-MICE.

"April, 1805.--We saw, but could not procure, an animal that burrows in

the ground, similar to the burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only

one-third of its size. This may be the animal whose works we have often

seen in the plains and prairies. They consist of a little hillock of ten

or twelve pounds of loose earth, which would seem to have been reversed

from a flower-pot; and no aperture is seen in the ground from which it

could have been brought. On removing gently the earth, you discover that

the soil has been broken in a circle of about an inch and a half in

diameter, where the ground is looser, though still no opening is

perceptible. When we stopped for dinner, the Indian woman went out, and,

penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the mice, brought a quantity

of wild artichokes, which the mice collect, and hoard in large

quantities. The root is white, of an ovate form, from one to three

inches long, and generally of the size of a man's finger; and two, four,

and sometimes six roots are attached to a single stalk. Its flavor, as

well as the stalk that issues from it, resemble those of the Jerusalem

artichoke, except that the latter is much larger."

THE YELLOW-STONE RIVER.

"Certain signs, known to the hunters, induced them to believe that we

were at no great distance from the Yellow-stone River. In order to

prevent delay, Capt. Lewis determined to go on by land in search of

that river, and make the necessary observations, so as to enable us to

proceed immediately after the boats should join him.

"On leaving the party, he pursued his route along the foot of the hills;

ascending which, the wide plains watered by the Missouri and the

Yellow-stone spread themselves before his eye, occasionally varied with

the wood of the banks, enlivened by the windings of the two rivers, and

animated by vast herds of buffaloes, deer, elk, and antelope."

NATURAL HISTORY.

"May, 1805.--We reached the mouth of a river flowing from the north,

which, from the unusual number of porcupines near it, we called

Porcupine River. These animals are so careless and clumsy, that we can

approach very near without disturbing them as they are feeding on the

young willows. The porcupine is common in all parts of the territory,

and for its quills is held in high estimation by the Indians. It is

interesting to see with how much ingenuity, and in how many various

forms, the Indians manufacture these quills into ornamental work, such

as moccasons, belts, and various other articles."

WOLVES.

"The wolves are very numerous, and of two species. First, the small

wolf, or burrowing dog of the prairies, which is found in almost all the

open plains. It is of an intermediate size, between the fox and dog,

very delicately formed, fleet and active. The ears are large, erect, and

pointed; the head long and pointed, like that of a fox; the tail long

and bushy; the hair and fur of a pale reddish-brown, and much coarser

than that of the fox. These animals usually associate in bands of ten or

twelve, and are rarely, if ever, seen alone; not being able singly to

attack a deer or antelope. They live, and rear their young, in burrows,

which they fix near some pass much frequented by game, and sally out in

a body against any animal which they think they can overpower, but, on

the slightest alarm, retreat to their burrows, making a noise exactly

like that of a small dog.

"The second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker, than the

Atlantic wolf. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; and they

frequent the woods and plains, and skulk along the herds of buffaloes,

in order to attack the weary or wounded."

ELK.

"Among the animals of the deer kind, the elk is the largest and most

majestic. It combines beauty with magnitude and strength; and its large,

towering horns give it an imposing appearance. Its senses are so keen in

apprehension, that it is difficult to be approached; and its speed in

flight is so great, that it mocks the chase. Its flesh resembles beef,

but is less highly flavored, and is much sought for by the Indians and

hunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used in articles of clothing and

for moccasons."

BEAVERS.

"We saw many beavers to-day. The beaver seems to contribute very much to

the widening of the river and the formation of islands. They begin by

damming up the channels of about twenty yards width between the islands.

This obliges the river to seek another outlet; and, as soon as this is

effected, the channel stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and

sand. The industrious animal is thus driven to another channel, which

soon shares the same fate; till the river spreads on all sides, and cuts

the projecting points of land into islands.

"The beaver dams differ in shape, according to the nature of the place

in which they are built. If the water in the river or creek have but

little motion, the dam is almost straight; but, when the current is more

rapid, it is always made with a considerable curve, convex toward the

stream. The materials made use of are drift-wood, green willows, birch,

and poplars, if they can be got; also mud and stones, intermixed in such

a manner as must evidently contribute to the strength of the dam. In

places which have been long frequented by beavers undisturbed, their

dams, by frequent repairing, become a solid bank, capable of resisting a

great force both of water and ice; and as the willow, poplar, and birch

generally take root, and shoot up, they, by degrees, form a kind of

regular planted hedge, in some places so tall that birds build their

nests among the branches. The beaver-houses are constructed of the same

materials as their dams, and are always proportioned in size to the

number of inhabitants, which seldom exceeds four old and six or eight

young ones. The houses are of a much ruder construction than their dams:

for, notwithstanding the sagacity of these animals, it has never been

observed that they aim at any other convenience in their house than to

have a dry place to lie on; and there they usually eat their victuals,

such as they take out of the water. Their food consists of roots of

plants, like the pond-lily, which grows at the bottom of the lakes and

rivers. They also eat the bark of trees, particularly those of the

poplar, birch, and willow.

"The instinct of the beavers leading them to live in associations, they

are in an unnatural position, when, in any locality, their numbers are

so much reduced as to prevent their following this instinct. The beaver

near the settlement is sad and solitary: his works have been swept away,

his association broken up, and he is reduced to the necessity of

burrowing in the river-bank, instead of building a house for himself.

Such beavers are called 'terriers.' One traveller says that these

solitaries are also called 'old bachelors.'"

THE WHITE, BROWN, OR GRISLY BEAR.

"April 29.--All these names are given to the same species, which

probably changes in color with the season, or with the time of life. Of

the strength and ferocity of this animal, the Indians give dreadful

accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or eight persons,

and, even then, are often defeated with the loss of some of the party.

"May 18.--One of our men who had been suffered to go ashore came running

to the boats with cries and every symptom of terror. As soon as he could

command his breath, he told us, that, about a mile below, he had shot a

white bear, which immediately turned and ran towards him, but, being

wounded, had not been able to overtake him. Capt. Lewis, with seven men,

went in search of the bear, and, having found his track, followed him by

the blood for a mile, came up with him, and shot him with two balls

through the skull. He was a monstrous animal, and a most formidable

enemy. Our man had shot him through the centre of the lungs: yet the

bear had pursued him furiously for half a mile; then returned more than

twice that distance, and, with his talons, dug himself a bed in the

earth, two feet deep and five feet long, and was perfectly alive when

they found him, which was at least two hours after he received the

wound. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men;

and the oil amounted to eight gallons.

"The wonderful power of life of these animals, added to their great

strength, renders them very formidable. Their very track in the mud or

sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and a

quarter wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather

encounter two Indians than a single brown bear. There is no chance of

killing them by a single shot, unless the ball is sent through the

brain; and this is very difficult to be done, on account of two large

muscles which cover the side of the forehead, and the sharp projection

of the frontal bone, which is very thick."

NOTE.

Their strength is astonishingly great. Lieut. Stein of the

dragoons, a man of undoubted veracity, told me he saw some

buffaloes passing near some bushes where a grisly bear lay

concealed: the bear, with one stroke, tore three ribs from a

buffalo, and left it dead.--_Parker._

Although endowed with such strength, and powers of destruction,

the grisly bear is not disposed to begin the attack. Mr.

Drummond, a later traveller, states, that, in his excursions

over the Rocky Mountains, he had frequent opportunity of

observing the manners of these animals; and it often happened,

that in turning the point of a rock, or sharp angle of a

valley, he came suddenly upon one or more of them. On such

occasions they reared on their hind-legs, and made a loud noise

like a person breathing quick, but much harsher. He kept his

ground, without attempting to molest them; and they on their

part, after attentively regarding him for some time, generally

wheeled round, and galloped off: though, from their known

disposition, there is little doubt but he would have been torn

in pieces, had he lost his presence of mind and attempted to

fly. When he discovered them at a distance, he often frightened

them away by beating on a large tin box in which he carried his

specimens of plants.

THE BLACK BEAR.

"The black bear, common in the United States, is scarcely more than half

the size of the grisly bear. Its favorite food is berries of various

kinds; but, when these are not to be procured, it lives upon roots,

insects, fish, eggs, and such birds and quadrupeds as it can surprise.

It passes the winter in a torpid state, selecting a spot for its den

under a fallen tree, and, having scratched away a portion of the soil,

retires to the place at the commencement of a snow storm, when the snow

soon furnishes it with a close, warm covering. Its breath makes a small

opening in the den, and the quantity of hoar-frost which gathers round

the hole serves to betray its retreat to the hunter. In more southern

districts, where the timber is of larger size, bears often shelter

themselves in hollow trees."

BUFFALOES.

"The buffalo is about as large as our domestic cattle; and their long,

shaggy, woolly hair, which covers their head, neck, and shoulders,

gives them a formidable appearance, and, at a distance, something like

that of the lion. In many respects, they resemble our horned cattle; are

cloven-footed, chew the cud, and select the same kind of food. Their

flesh is in appearance and taste much like beef, but of superior flavor.

Their heads are formed like the ox, perhaps a little more round and

broad; and, when they run, they carry them rather low. Their horns,

ears, and eyes, as seen through their shaggy hair, appear small, and,

cleared from their covering, are not large. Their legs and feet are

small and trim; the fore-legs covered with the long hair of the

shoulders, as low down as the knee. Though their figure is clumsy in

appearance, they run swiftly, and for a long time without much

slackening their speed; and, up steep hills or mountains, they more than

equal the best horses. They unite in herds, and, when feeding, scatter

over a large space; but, when fleeing from danger, they collect into

dense columns: and, having once laid their course, they are not easily

diverted from it, whatever may oppose. So far are they from being a

fierce or revengeful animal, that they are very shy and timid; and in no

case did we see them offer to make an attack but in self-defence, and

then they always sought the first opportunity to escape. When they run,

they lean alternately from side to side. They are fond of rolling upon

the ground like horses, which is not practised by our domestic cattle.

This is so much their diversion, that large places are found without

grass, and considerably excavated by them."

NOTE. Rev. Mr. Parker thus describes a buffalo-hunt:--

"To-day we unexpectedly saw before us a large herd of

buffaloes. All halted to make preparation for the chase. The

young men, and all the good hunters, prepared themselves,

selected the swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had,

and also took a supply of arrows with their bows. They advanced

towards the herd of buffaloes with great caution, lest they

should frighten them before they should make a near approach,

and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase,

when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisition.

When the buffaloes took the alarm, and fled, the rush was made,

each Indian selecting for himself the one to which he happened

to come nearest. All were in swift motion, scouring the valley.

A cloud of dust began to rise; firing of guns, and shooting of

arrows, followed in close succession. Soon, here and there,

buffaloes were seen prostrated; and the women, who followed

close in the rear, began the work of securing the acquisition,

and the men were away again in pursuit of the flying herd.

Those in the chase, when as near as two rods, shoot and wheel,

expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses

seemed to understand the way to avoid danger. As soon as the

wounded animal flies again, the chase is renewed; and such is

the alternate wheeling and chasing, until the buffalo sinks

beneath his wounds."

INDIAN METHOD OF HUNTING THE BUFFALO.

"May 30, 1805.--We passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet

high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least a hundred

carcasses of buffaloes. These buffaloes had been chased down the

precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, and by which vast herds

are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to select one of the

most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a buffalo-skin

round his body; the skin of the head, with the ears and horns, fastened

on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloes. Thus dressed,

he fixes himself at a convenient distance between a herd of buffaloes

and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for some miles.

His companions, in the mean time, get in the rear and side of the herd,

and, at a given signal, show themselves, and advance towards the

buffaloes. They instantly take the alarm; and, finding the hunters

beside them, they run toward the disguised Indian, or decoy, who leads

them on, at full speed, toward the river; when, suddenly securing

himself in some crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on,

the herd is left on the brink of the precipice. It is then in vain for

the foremost to retreat, or even to stop. They are pressed on by the

hindmost rank, who, seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those

before them, till the whole are precipitated over the cliff, and the

shore is covered with their dead bodies. Sometimes, in this perilous

adventure, the Indian decoy is either trodden under foot, or, missing

his footing in the cliff, is urged down the precipice by the falling

herd."

WHICH IS THE TRUE RIVER?

"June 3, 1805.--We came to for the night, for the purpose of examining

in the morning a large river which enters opposite to us. It now became

an interesting question, which of those two streams is what the Indians

call Ahmateahza, or the Missouri, which, they tell us, has its head

waters very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate

of the expedition depends; since, if, after ascending to the Rocky

Mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we have been

tracing does not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to turn back,

we shall have lost the travelling season, and seriously disheartened

our men. We determined, therefore, to examine well before deciding on

our course, and, for this purpose, despatched two canoes with three men

up each of the streams, with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and

rapidity of the currents, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of

water. Parties were also sent out by land to penetrate the country, and

discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of

the two rivers. While they were gone, the two commanders ascended

together the high grounds in the fork of the two rivers, whence they had

an extensive prospect of the surrounding country. On every side, it was

spread into one vast plain covered with verdure, in which innumerable

herds of buffaloes were roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves.

Some flocks of elk also were seen; and the solitary antelopes were

scattered, with their young, over the plain. The direction of the rivers

could not be long distinguished, as they were soon lost in the extent of

the plain.

"On our return, we continued our examination. The width of the north

branch is two hundred yards; that of the south is three hundred and

seventy-two. The north, though narrower, is deeper than the south: its

waters also are of the same whitish-brown color, thickness, and

turbidness as the Missouri. They run in the same boiling and roaring

manner which has uniformly characterized the Missouri; and its bed is

composed of some gravel, but principally mud. The south fork is broader,

and its waters are perfectly transparent. The current is rapid, but the

surface smooth and unruffled; and its bed is composed of round and flat

smooth stones, like those of rivers issuing from a mountainous country.

"In the evening, the exploring parties returned, after ascending the

rivers in canoes for some distance, then continuing on foot, just

leaving themselves time to return by night. Their accounts were far from

deciding the important question of our future route; and we therefore

determined each of us to ascend one of the rivers during a day and a

half's march, or farther, if necessary for our satisfaction.

"Tuesday, June 4, 1805.--This morning, Capt. Lewis and Capt. Clarke set

out, each with a small party, by land, to explore the two rivers. Capt.

Lewis traced the course of the north fork for fifty-nine miles, and

found, that, for all that distance, its direction was northward; and, as

the latitude we were now in was 47 deg. 24', it was highly improbable,

that, by going farther north, we should find between this and the

Saskatchawan any stream which can, as the Indians assure us the Missouri

does, possess a navigable current for some distance within the Rocky

Mountains.

"These considerations, with others drawn from the observations of Capt.

Clarke upon the south branch, satisfied the chiefs that the South River

was the true Missouri; but the men generally were of a contrary opinion,

and much of their belief depended upon Crusatte, an experienced waterman

on the Missouri, who gave it as his opinion that the north fork was the

main river. In order that nothing might be omitted which could prevent

our falling into error, it was agreed that one of us should ascend the

southern branch by land until he reached either the falls or the

mountains. In the mean time, in order to lighten our burdens as much as

possible, we determined to deposit here all the heavy baggage which we

could possibly spare, as well as some provisions, salt, powder, and

tools. The weather being fair, we dried all our baggage and merchandise,

and made our deposit, or cache. Our cache is made in this manner: In the

high plain on the side of the river, we choose a dry situation, and,

drawing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter, remove the sod

as carefully as possible. The hole is then sunk perpendicularly a foot

deep, or more if the ground be not firm. It is now worked gradually

wider as it deepens, till at length it becomes six or seven feet deep,

shaped nearly like a kettle, or the lower part of a large still, with

the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As the earth is dug, it is

carefully laid on a skin or cloth, in which it is carried away, and

thrown into the river, so as to leave no trace of it. A floor to the

cache is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown hay, or a hide

perfectly dry. The goods, being well aired and dried, are laid on this

floor, and prevented from touching the sides by other dried sticks, as

the baggage is stowed away. When the hole is nearly full, a skin is laid

over the goods; and, on this, earth is thrown, and beaten down, until,

with the addition of the sod, the whole is on a level with the ground,

and there remains no appearance of an excavation. Careful measurements

are taken to secure the ready recovery of the cache on the return; and

the deposit is left in perfect confidence of finding every thing safe

and sound after the lapse of months, or even years."

THE FALLS OF THE MISSOURI.

"June 12.--This morning, Capt. Lewis set out with four men on an

exploration, to ascend the southern branch, agreeably to our plan. He

left the bank of the river in order to avoid the deep ravines, which

generally extend from the shore to a distance of two or three miles in

the plain. On the second day, having travelled about sixty miles from

the point of departure, on a sudden their ears were saluted with the

agreeable sound of falling water; and, as they advanced, a spray which

seemed driven by the wind rose above the plain like a column of smoke,

and vanished in an instant. Towards this point, Capt. Lewis directed his

steps; and the noise, increasing as he approached, soon became too

powerful to be ascribed to any thing but the Great Falls of the

Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound, he

reached the falls. The hills, as he approached the river, were difficult

of transit, and two hundred feet high. Down these he hurried, and,

seating himself on a rock, enjoyed the spectacle of this stupendous

object, which, ever since the creation, had been lavishing its

magnificence upon the desert, unseen by civilized man.

"The river, immediately at its cascade, is three hundred yards wide, and

is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff, which rises to about one hundred

feet, and extends up the stream for a mile. On the other side, the bluff

is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. For

ninety or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one

smooth, even sheet, over a precipice eighty feet in height. The

remaining part of the river rushes with an accelerated current, but,

being received as it falls by irregular rocks below, forms a brilliant

spectacle of perfectly white foam, two hundred yards in length, and

eighty in height. The spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, on all

of which the sun impresses the brightest colors of the rainbow. The

principal cascade is succeeded by others of less grandeur, but of

exceeding beauty and great variety, for about twenty miles in

extent."[1]

A PORTAGE.

"June 21.--Having reached the falls, we found ourselves obliged to get

past them by transporting our boats overland by what is called a

_portage_. The distance was eighteen miles. It was necessary to

construct a truck or carriage to transport the boats; and the making of

the wheels and the necessary framework took ten days. The axle-trees,

made of an old mast, broke repeatedly, and the cottonwood tongues gave

way; so that the men were forced to carry as much baggage as they could

on their backs. The prickly pear annoyed them much by sticking through

their moccasons. It required several trips to transport all the canoes

and baggage; and, though the men put double soles to their moccasons,

the prickly pear, and the sharp points of earth formed by the trampling

of the buffaloes during the late rains, wounded their feet; and, as the

men were laden as heavily as their strength would permit, the crossing

was very painful. They were obliged to halt and rest frequently; and, at

almost every stopping-place, they would throw themselves down, and fall

asleep in an instant. Yet no one complained, and they went on with

cheerfulness.

"Having decided to leave here one of the pirogues, we set to work to fit

up a boat of skins, upon a frame of iron which had been prepared at the

armory at Harper's Ferry. It was thirty-six feet long, four feet and a

half wide at top, and twenty-six inches wide at bottom. It was with

difficulty we found the necessary timber to complete it, even tolerably

straight sticks, four and a half feet long. The sides were formed of

willow-bark, and, over this, elk and buffalo skins."

A NARROW ESCAPE.

"June 29.--Capt. Clarke, having lost some notes and remarks which he had

made on first ascending the river, determined to go up along its banks

in order to supply the deficiency. He had reached the falls, accompanied

by his negro-servant York, and by Chaboneau, the half-breed Indian

interpreter, and his wife with her young child. On his arrival there, he

observed a dark cloud in the west, which threatened rain; and looked

around for some shelter. About a quarter of a mile above the falls he

found a deep ravine, where there were some shelving rocks, under which

they took refuge. They were perfectly sheltered from the rain, and

therefore laid down their guns, compass, and other articles which they

carried with them. The shower was at first moderate; it then increased

to a heavy rain, the effects of which they did not feel. Soon after, a

torrent of rain and hail descended. The rain seemed to fall in a solid

mass, and, instantly collecting in the ravine, came rolling down in a

dreadful torrent, carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that

opposed it. Capt. Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it reached

them, and springing up, with his gun in his left hand, with his right he

clambered up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child

in her arms. Her husband, too, had seized her hand, and was pulling her

up the hill, but was so terrified at the danger, that, but for Capt.

Clarke, he would have been lost, with his wife and child. So

instantaneous was the rise of the water, that, before Capt. Clarke had

secured his gun and begun to ascend the bank, the water was up to his

waist; and he could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached

the height of fifteen feet, with a furious current, which, had they

waited a moment longer, would have swept them into the river, just above

the falls, down which they must inevitably have been carried. As it was,

Capt. Clarke lost his compass, Chaboneau his gun, shot-pouch, and

tomahawk; and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child before

the net in which it lay was carried down the current."

PROGRESS RESUMED.

"July 4.--The boat was now completed, except what was in fact the most

difficult part,--the making her seams secure. Having been unsuccessful

in all our attempts to procure tar, we have formed a composition of

pounded charcoal with beeswax and buffalo-tallow to supply its place. If

this resource fail us, it will be very unfortunate, as, in every other

respect, the boat answers our purpose completely. Although not quite

dry, she can be carried with ease by five men: she is very strong, and

will carry a load of eight thousand pounds, with her complement of men.

"July 9.--The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave it a coat

of the composition, then a second, and launched it into the water. She

swam perfectly well. The seats were then fixed, and the oars fitted. But

after a few hours' exposure to the wind, which blew with violence, we

discovered that nearly all the composition had separated from the skins,

so that she leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch

was impossible; and, as none of that article was to be procured, we were

obliged to abandon her, after having had so much labor in the

construction.

"It now becomes necessary to provide other means for transporting the

baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose, we shall

want two canoes; but for many miles we have not seen a single tree fit

to be used for that purpose. The hunters, however, report that there is

a low ground about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice

that distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large

enough. Capt. Clarke has therefore determined to set out by land for

that place, with ten of the best workmen, who will be occupied in

building the canoes, till the rest of the party, after taking the boat

to pieces and making the necessary deposits, shall transport the

baggage, and join them with the other six canoes.

"Capt. Clarke accordingly proceeded on eight miles by land; the distance

by water being twenty-three miles. Here he found two cottonwood-trees,

and proceeded to convert them into boats. The rest of the party took the

iron boat to pieces, and deposited it in a _cache_, or hole, with some

other articles of less importance.

"July 11.--Sergeant Ordway, with four canoes and eight men, set sail in

the morning to the place where Capt. Clarke had fixed his camp. The

canoes were unloaded and sent back, and the remainder of the baggage in

a second trip was despatched to the upper camp.

"July 15.--We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes,

which, though eight in number, were heavily laden, and at ten o'clock

set out on our journey.

"July 16.--We had now arrived at the point where the Missouri emerges

from the Rocky Mountains. The current of the river becomes stronger as

we advance, and the spurs of the mountain approach towards the river,

which is deep, and not more than seventy yards wide. The low grounds are

now but a few yards in width; yet they furnish room for an Indian road,

which winds under the hills on the north side of the river. The general

range of these hills is from south-east to north-west; and the cliffs

themselves are about eight hundred feet above the water, formed almost

entirely of a hard black rock, on which are scattered a few dwarf pine

and cedar trees.

"As the canoes were heavily laden, all the men not employed in working

them walked on shore. The navigation is now very laborious. The river is

deep, but with little current; the low grounds are very narrow; the

cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much, that, in places, we

could not pass them, but were obliged to cross and recross from one side

of the river to the other in order to make our way."

FOOTNOTE:

[1] Dimensions of Niagara Falls,--American, 960 feet wide, 162 feet

high; English, 700 feet wide, 150 feet high.

Oregon and Eldorado; or, Romance of the Rivers · 第 6 / 20 章