THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI AND COLUMBIA.
Aug. 12, 1805.--Capt. Lewis decided to advance along the foot of the
mountains, hoping to find a road leading across them. At the distance of
four miles from his camp, he found a large, plain, Indian road, which
entered the valley from the north-east. Following this road towards the
south-west, the valley, for the first five miles, continued in the same
direction; then the main stream turned abruptly to the west, through a
narrow bottom between the mountains. We traced the stream, which
gradually became smaller, till, two miles farther up, it had so
diminished, that one of the men, in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot
on each side of the rivulet, thanked God that he had lived to bestride
the Missouri. Four miles from thence, we came to the spot where, from
the foot of a mountain, issues the remotest water of the mighty river.
"We had now traced the Missouri to its source, which had never before
been seen by civilized man; and as we quenched our thirst at the pure
and icy fountain, and stretched ourselves by the brink of the little
rivulet which yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent
ocean, we felt rewarded for all our labors.
"We left reluctantly this interesting spot, and, pursuing the Indian
road, arrived at the top of a ridge, from whence we saw high mountains,
partially covered with snow, still to the west of us. The ridge on which
we stood formed, apparently, the dividing-line between the waters of the
Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. We followed a descent much steeper than
that on the eastern side, and, at the distance of three-quarters of a
mile, reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear water, running to
the westward. We stopped for a moment, to taste, for the first time, the
waters of the Columbia; and then followed the road across hills and
valleys, till we found a spring, and a sufficient quantity of dry
willow-brush for fuel; and there halted for the night."
THEY MEET WITH INDIANS.
"Aug. 13.--Very early in the morning, Capt. Lewis resumed the Indian
road, which led him in a western direction, through an open, broken
country. At five miles' distance, he reached a creek about ten yards
wide, and, on rising the hill beyond it, had a view of a handsome little
valley about a mile in width, through which they judged, from the
appearance of the timber, that a stream probably flowed. On a sudden,
they discovered two women, a man, and some dogs, on an eminence about a
mile before them. The strangers viewed them apparently with much
attention; and then two of them sat down, as if to await Capt. Lewis's
arrival. He went on till he had reached within about half a mile; then
ordered his party to stop, put down his knapsack and rifle, and,
unfurling the flag, advanced alone towards the Indians.
"The women soon retreated behind the hill; but the man remained till
Capt. Lewis came within a hundred yards of him, when he, too, went off,
though Capt. Lewis called out 'Tabba bone' ('White man'), loud enough to
be heard distinctly. The dogs, however, were less shy, and came close to
him. He therefore thought of tying a handkerchief with some beads round
their necks, and then to let them loose, to convince the fugitives of
his friendly intentions; but the dogs would not suffer him to take hold
of them, and soon left him.
"He now made a signal to the men, who joined him; and then all followed
the track of the Indians, which led along a continuation of the same
road they had been travelling. It was dusty, and seemed to have been
much used lately both by foot-passengers and horsemen.
"They had not gone along it more than a mile, when, on a sudden, they
saw three female Indians, from whom they had been concealed by the deep
ravines which intersected the road, till they were now within thirty
paces of them. One of them, a young woman, immediately took to flight:
the other two, an old woman and little girl, seeing we were too near for
them to escape, sat on the ground, and, holding down their heads, seemed
as if reconciled to the death which they supposed awaited them. Capt.
Lewis instantly put down his rifle, and, advancing towards them, took
the woman by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the words, 'Tabba
bone,' at the same time stripping up his sleeve to show that he was a
white man; for his hands and face had become by exposure quite as dark
as their own.
"She appeared immediately relieved from her alarm; and, Drewyer and
Shields now coming up, Capt. Lewis gave her some beads, a few awls,
pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told Drewyer to request the
woman to recall her companion, who had escaped to some distance, and, by
alarming the Indians, might cause them to attack him, without any time
for explanation. She did as she was desired, and the young woman
returned readily. Capt. Lewis gave her an equal portion of trinkets, and
painted the tawny cheeks of all three of them with vermilion, which,
besides its ornamental effect, has the advantage of being held among the
Indians as emblematic of peace.
"After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wish
to go to their camp in order to see their chiefs and warriors. They
readily complied, and conducted the party along the same road down the
river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of
nearly sixty warriors, mounted on excellent horses, riding at full speed
towards them. As they advanced, Capt. Lewis put down his gun, and went
with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, who, with two
men, was riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who now
explained that the party was composed of white men, and showed
exultingly the presents they had received. The three men immediately
leaped from their horses, came up to Capt. Lewis, and embraced him with
great cordiality,--putting their left arm over his right shoulder, and
clasping his back,--applying at the same time their left cheek to his,
and frequently vociferating, 'Ah-hi-e!'--'_I am glad! I am glad!_'
"The whole body of warriors now came forward, and our men received the
caresses, and no small share of the grease and paint, of their new
friends. After this fraternal embrace, Capt. Lewis lighted a pipe, and
offered it to the Indians, who had now seated themselves in a circle
around our party. But, before they would receive this mark of
friendship, they pulled off their moccasons; a custom which, we
afterwards learned, indicates their sincerity when they smoke with a
stranger.
"After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed
among them, with which they seemed very much pleased, particularly with
the blue beads and the vermilion.
"Capt. Lewis then informed the chief that the object of his visit was
friendly, and should be explained as soon as he reached their camp; but
that in the mean time, as the sun was oppressive, and no water near, he
wished to go there as soon as possible. They now put on their moccasons;
and their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made a short speech to the
warriors. Capt. Lewis then gave him the flag, which he informed him was
the emblem of peace, and that now and for the future it was to be the
pledge of union between us and them. The chief then moved on, our party
followed, and the rest of the warriors brought up the rear.
"At the distance of four miles from where they had first met the
Indians, they reached the camp, which was in a handsome, level meadow on
the bank of the river. Here they were introduced into a leathern lodge
which was assigned for their reception. After being seated on green
boughs and antelope-skins, one of the warriors pulled up the grass in
the centre of the lodge, so as to form a vacant circle of two feet in
diameter, in which he kindled a fire. The chief then produced his pipe
and tobacco; the warriors all pulled off their moccasons, and our party
were requested to take off their own. This being done, the chief
lighted his pipe at the fire, and then, retreating from it, began a
speech several minutes long; at the end of which he pointed the stem of
his pipe towards the four cardinal points of the heavens, beginning with
the east, and concluding with the north. After this ceremony, he
presented the stem in the same way to Capt. Lewis, who, supposing it an
invitation to smoke, put out his hand to receive the pipe; but the chief
drew it back, and continued to repeat the same offer three times; after
which he pointed the stem to the heavens, then took three whiffs
himself, and presented it again to Capt. Lewis. Finding that this last
offer was in good earnest, he smoked a little, and returned it. The pipe
was then held to each of the white men, and, after they had taken a few
whiffs, was given to the warriors.
"The bowl of the pipe was made of a dense, transparent, green stone,
very highly polished, about two and a half inches long, and of an oval
figure; the bowl being in the same direction with the stem. The tobacco
is of the same kind with that used by the Minnetarees and Mandans of the
Missouri. The Shoshonees do not cultivate this plant, but obtain it from
the bands who live farther south.
"The ceremony of smoking being concluded, Capt. Lewis explained to the
chief the purposes of his visit; and, as by this time all the women and
children of the camp had gathered around the lodge to indulge in a view
of the first white men they had ever seen, he distributed among them the
remainder of the small articles he had brought with him.
"It was now late in the afternoon, and our party had tasted no food
since the night before. On apprising the chief of this fact, he said
that he had nothing but berries to eat, and presented some cakes made of
service-berries and choke-cherries which had been dried in the sun. Of
these, Capt. Lewis and his companions made as good a meal as they were
able.
"The chief informed him that the stream which flowed by them discharged
itself, at the distance of half a day's march, into another of twice its
size; but added that there was no timber there suitable for building
canoes, and that the river was rocky and rapid. The prospect of going on
by land was more pleasant; for there were great numbers of horses
feeding round the camp, which would serve to transport our stores over
the mountains.
"An Indian invited Capt. Lewis into his lodge, and gave him a small
morsel of boiled antelope, and a piece of fresh salmon, roasted. This
was the first salmon he had seen, and perfectly satisfied him that he
was now on the waters of the Pacific.
"On returning to the lodge, he resumed his conversation with the chief;
after which he was entertained with a dance by the Indians. The music
and dancing--which were in no respect different from those of the
Missouri Indians--continued nearly all night; but Capt. Lewis retired to
rest about twelve o'clock, when the fatigues of the day enabled him to
sleep, though he was awaked several times by the yells of the dancers."