_Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region.
Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. Their joy and
eagerness to have Missionaries, resident among them. Find a
suitable situation for a settlement. Description of the
country._
August 25th.--This was the joyful day on which at last we saw our hopes
realized, and the principal aim of our journey obtained. The sun rose
beautifully, and announced a delightful day. We were obliged to wait
till seven A.M. for the turn of the tide, before we could proceed up the
river. The estuary of the _Koksoak_ lies, according to an observation
taken, in 58° 36' N. latitude, nearly the same as Okkak. To the west the
country is called by the Esquimaux _Assokak_, the coast turning again
W.N.W. This river, therefore, seems to be at the most southern point of
the coast, George's river entering the sea at 58° 52', consequently more
North.
The Koksoak appeared to us to be about as broad as the Thames at
Gravesend, or the Elbe near Hamburg, and the whole river, with its
various windings, much resembles the Thames for twenty-four miles
upwards. Its depth is sufficient for a ship thus far. Its general
direction is from the South. We reckoned it to be about 600 or 700 miles
from Okkak, and Killinek or Cape Chudleigh half way.
Having proceeded five or six miles up the river, we came to a small
island, which we left on our right.
We saw several sacks of blubber, a sledge, and some other, articles
lying on the beach, and Jonathan and Brother Kmoch went in the small
boat to discover the proprietors, but found nobody there, to guard the
goods.
A little farther on is a point of land running out into nearly the
middle of the stream. The current sets very rapidly round it, so as to
form a dangerous eddy. Our boat was seized, and twice turned quite
round; the small boat was whirled about several times, as she pushed
through it. The women on board our boat, on seeing this, set up a loud
scream; but Jonathan only laughed at their fears, and we afterwards saw
kayaks passing the eddy in perfect safety.
Having doubled the point, we perceived several kayaks approaching. The
people in them shouted aloud for joy, exclaiming, _Innuit, Innuit_! Men,
Men! Some guns were also fired in the boat, which were soon answered by
some fowling-pieces from the shore.
We now saw three tents pitched on the bank, and hoisted our colours,
when we were incessantly hailed by the inhabitants. There was a general
cry of _Kuvè, Kuvè, Kablunaet, Kablunaet!_ Europeans, Europeans! from
the men in the kayaks, who, by all manner of gesticulations, expressed
their pleasure, brandishing their pautiks, (oars), and shouting
continually as they rowed alongside the boat. The women on shore
answered with loud acclamations.
About one P.M. we cast anchor close to their habitations. Fourteen
families were here, among whom were some from a distant district, called
_Eivektok_. These had pitched their tents farther up the river.
_Arnauyak_ was with them, a man, with whom Brother Kohlmeister had
become acquainted some years ago, exceedingly regretted, that he had but
a few days ago left the place, to hunt reindeer on George's river. The
children expressed their joy by running to and fro on the strand, like
wild creatures.
At first, the people in the tents appeared rather shy, but after
accepting of some trifling presents, they became quite communicative,
and gave us some of their toys in exchange; then walking round us,
surveyed us narrowly, as if we were a new species of animals. Most of
them had never before seen an European. Uttakiyok's brother had joined
them, and already informed them of our arrival, without which they would
probably have been yet more alarmed at seeing strangers, and hearing the
report of fire-arms.
They now invited all our people to dine with them, and having heard that
Brother Kohlmeister would like to taste the flesh of a whitefish, a
kettle was immediately placed on the fire, and a large piece put in to
boil. Brother Kmoch meanwhile cooked a savoury soup of birds, and
reindeer-flesh, more fit for an European stomach. While dinner was
preparing, Brother Kohlmeister took a walk up the bank of the river, and
across some hills. As the families belonging to _Eivektok_ had their
summer dwelling in that neighbourhood, the Esquimaux, on perceiving that
he had walked in that direction, and fearing that the Eivektok people,
seeing him alone, might mistake him for an Indian, and shoot at him,
dispatched two men to bring him back. They missed him, and he returned
before them. He found our people very pleasantly conversing with the
heathen concerning the aim of our journey, and the way of salvation.
Even Uttakiyok was thus engaged, explaining, as well as he could, the
cause of our living in Labrador: he exclaimed, "let us, my friends, all
be converted to Jesus." He was heard with peculiar attention, being
considered as a captain among them. In the evening we sang hymns in
Jonathan's tent. The people all came and listened with much seriousness.
26th. To-day the Eivektok families came in a skin-boat down the river, to
see us. They were full of astonishment, but soon took courage, and
handled us, to discover whether we were made of the same materials with
themselves. An old man, _Netsiak_, addressed Brother Kohlmeister: "Are
you Benjamin? I have never seen you with my eyes, but at Eivektok have
heard your name often mentioned." He seemed to be a sensible man, and a
captain among his tribe.
We could not help remarking the difference between these Esquimaux and
their countrymen living on the same coasts with our settlements. The
former are very poor, and miserably equipped, whereas the latter, by
their intercourse with us and other Europeans, have acquired many
conveniences, and are, by barter, well provided with what they want.
27th. We proceeded farther up the river, accompanied by most of the men,
and some women, in their skin-boat, and arrived at a bay, which, by the
winding of the stream, appears like a lake, surrounded on all sides with
gently rising grounds, well planted with wood of moderate size, chiefly
larch. Behind the wood are some low hills. We named this place _Unity's
Bay_. There is here a very good place for a Missionary settlement. A
fine slope extends for about half an English mile, bounded on each
extremity by a hill, on each of which we erected high signals. The land
is even and dry. Juniper, currants, and other berries, grow here in
abundance, and rivulets run out of the wood at a distance of a few
hundred paces from each other. The slope faces the S.S.E. and we named
it _Pilgerruh_, (Pilgrim's rest). Brother Kohlmeister made drawings of
the situation.
From our first arrival we had improved every opportunity of making the
Esquimaux acquainted with the chief aim of our visit to this country,
and addressed them both singly and in companies. Nor were Jonathan and
Jonas remiss in conversing with them about the concerns of their
immortal souls, declaring to them the love of God our Saviour towards
them. We once met with Sybilla, Jonathan's wife, seated with a company
of women, under the shadow of a skin-boat, set on edge, exhorting them,
with great simplicity and fervour, to hear and believe the gospel.
28th. Brother Kmoch landed with Jonathan, and spent some hours in
examining the banks of the river. On ascending the first eminence, the
view of the interior is in general flat, with a few low hills, and ponds
in some places, full of wild geese. The timber in the woods hereabouts
is not large: we found none fit for masts. The largest trees were not
more than eight inches in diameter, and fifteen or twenty feet high.
They are chiefly larch and pines. In some places we found them burnt or
withered, and were informed by the Esquimaux, that it was the effect of
the Indian's fires. Indeed we saw several places where the Indians had
put up huts, and left sufficient vestiges of their abode. Berries grow
everywhere, and between the river and the wood, the plain is chiefly
covered with willows, high grass growing between them, but these and the
various shrubs are so low, that a man can easily look over them. In all
directions we saw the tracks of reindeer, and there is every appearance
of its being a place much frequented by these animals. Deeper in the
wood, we found great quantities of sorrel and other European plants. The
woods appeared very thick, and extended as far as the eye could reach,
often coming down to the edge of the river. The Esquimaux say, that
higher up, large timber is found. On our return to the skin-boat we
found ourselves pretty much fatigued, and ready to partake of a supper,
cooked by the Esquimaux, consisting of ship's biscuit, dried fish, and
raw whitefish blubber. The Esquimaux prevailed upon Brother Kmoch to
taste the latter, and he reported, that having once overcome his
aversion to it, its taste was sweet, like the kernel of a nut, but
heated his stomach like a hot posset.
29th. Changeable and rainy weather prevented us from going out much.
30th. Our people, and with them the strange Esquimaux, met for public
worship. Brother Kohlmeister once more explained to them our intention
in coming thus far to visit them. He addressed them to the following
effect: "That already, many years ago, many excellent people in the
country beyond the great ocean, had thought of them with much love, and
felt desirous that the inhabitants of the Ungava country also might hear
the comfortable word of God, and be instructed in it: for they had heard
that the Esquimaux here were heathen, who, through ignorance, served the
Torngak, or evil spirit, and were led by him into the commission of all
manner of sin, that they might hereafter be lost, and go to the place of
eternal darkness and misery. Out of love, therefore," continued the
missionary, "they have sent us to you, and out of love we have come to
you, to tell you how you may be saved, and become happy, peaceful
children of God, being delivered from the fear of death, which is now
upon you all, and have the prospect of everlasting joy and peace
hereafter, even by receiving the gospel, and turning to Jesus, who is
the only Creator and Saviour of all men. He died for _your_ sins, for
_our_ sins, and for the sins of all mankind, as our surety, suffering
the punishment we deserved, that _you_, by receiving Him, and believing
on Him, might be saved, and not go to the place of eternal darkness and
pain, but to the place of bliss and eternal rest. You cannot yet
understand these comfortable words of the gospel, but if it is your
sincere wish to know the truth of them, Jesus will open your ears and
hearts, to hear and understand them. These my companions were as
ignorant as you, but they now thank God, that they know Jesus as their
Saviour, and are assured that through His death they shall inherit
everlasting life."
During this address all were silent and very attentive. Some exclaimed:
"O we desire to hear more about it!" Old Netsiak, from Eivektok, said:
"I am indeed old, but if you come to live here, I will certainly remove
hither also; and live with you and be converted."
When we put the question to them, whether they were willing, that we
should come and dwell with them, and instruct them, they all answered
with a loud and cheerful voice. "_Kaititse tok, Kaititse tok!_ O do come
soon, and live with us, we will all gladly be converted, and live with
you." Jonathan and Jonas also bore ample testimony to the truth of what
we had spoken, and their words seemed to make a deep impression on all
their countrymen. Uttakiyok was above others eager to express his wish
that we might soon make a settlement in the Ungava country. Five of the
fourteen families who mean to reside here next winter, are from
Eivektok.
Farther inland, the river Koksoak widens considerably, but consequently
grows more shallow. The country is pleasant, with wood, grassy plains,
and gentle hills.
31st. Having finished all our observations here, we dropped down the
stream to the place, where we had discovered the first tents.
In descending, as well as ascending the river, we saw a great number of
whitefish, and many seals. Reindeer are numerous on both shores, both in
summer and winter. All the Esquimaux declared, that this was the best
provision-place in the whole country, and they consequently flock to it
from all parts every summer, frequently protracting their stay during
the winter. The greater number of those we found here, purposed spending
next winter in this neighbourhood. The Esquimaux are prevented from
making this place their constant residence by their fear of the
land-Indians, which cause them to quit it sooner than they otherwise
would wish to do.
We spared no pains to collect all the information we possibly could
obtain, on every subject relating to this situation, both as to itself,
and in reference to the possibility of approaching it with a ship, as
likewise respecting the inhabitants of the Ungava country in general. It
appeared evident, that the place above described is the most eligible
for forming a missionary-settlement.
We found it unnecessary to proceed to the Westward, by the account given
us by our worthy conductor Uttakiyok, whose information hitherto we had
always found correct, and confidently to be relied on.
He reported: 1. That farther West no wood is to be found on the coast.
2. That besides the two rivers Kangertlualuksoak and Koksoak, they knew
of no place where a ship might with safety approach the land.
3. That at this time we should probably find no inhabitants, as they had
all gone into the interior to hunt reindeer.
We therefore now considered the business committed to us to be
accomplished, and determined to return to Okkak, thankful to God our
Saviour for the many proofs of His favour, and protection, experienced
in the execution of our commission.