_Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on the
expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations. Resolve to
proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account of Indians.
Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Arrival in the river
Koksoak._
Jonathan and Jonas now became more and more anxious about our situation.
They represented to us, that, if we attempted to proceed farther, we
might probably be compelled to remain here the whole winter, as the
stormy season was fast approaching. They added, that to _them_, it would
be of little consequence, but that they were concerned on _our_ account.
Though we had not said any thing as yet that might tend to shake the
confidence of our party, yet we felt no small degree of perplexity
concerning present appearances. During the six days since we left
George's River, we had made little more than fourteen or fifteen miles,
and were at least, as far as we could judge, seventy or eighty from the
river _Koksoak_, which we had fixed upon as the final object of the
voyage, being the outermost western boundary of the Ungava country.
Insurmountable difficulties seemed now to present themselves, owing
partly to contrary winds and cold weather, and partly to loss of time,
for we had been already two months on the voyage, and had not yet
obtained our aim: so that our return might be unseasonably late, if we
proceeded. We could not possibly make up our minds to spend the winter
here, as we had not a sufficient supply of provisions, and knew what
distress it would occasion to our Brethren at Okkak.
We felt quite at a loss what to do in this dilemma, and our path seemed
enveloped in obscurity. We remembered, that "_to the upright there
ariseth a light in the darkness_," (Ps. 112, 4): that is, to them who
fear and trust in the Lord, and sincerely desire to know and do His
will, He will reveal it. In His name we had entered upon this voyage,
the only ultimate object of which was, the conversion of a benighted,
neglected nation, in one of the remotest corners of the earth. We were,
therefore, sure that He would not forsake us, nor leave us in
uncertainty as to His will concerning us, but that He, "_whose eyes run
to and fro throughout the whole earth, to shew Himself strong in the
behalf of them whose heart is perfect towards Him_," (2 Chron. 16, 9.)
was, even in this desolate region, present with us, and would hear and
answer our prayers. Many comfortable texts of scripture occurred to our
minds on this occasion, filling us with an extraordinary degree of faith
and confidence in Him, particularly such as, "_He will be very gracious
unto thee at the voice of thy cry; when He shall hear it, He will answer
thee_," Isa. 30, 19. Also, Dan. 10, 19; Jer. 16, 21; Isa. 43, 2, &c. The
mercies, also, which we had already experienced, excited within us a
sense of the deepest gratitude and most firm trust; and we therefore
told our people, that we indeed participated in their concern, would
take the subject into serious consideration, and acquaint them with our
determination on the morrow.
19th. In the morning we met in our tent, where we were safe from the
intrusion of the Esquimaux, to confer together upon this most important
subject. We weighed all the circumstances connected with it, maturely
and impartially, as in the presence of God, and, not being able to come
to any decision, where reasons for and against the question seemed to
hold such an even balance, we determined to commit our case to Him, who
has promised, that "_if two of His people shall agree on earth, as
touching any thing that they shall ask, it shall be done for them_,"
(Matth. 18, 19.) and, kneeling down, entreated Him to hear our prayers
and supplications in this our distressed and embarrassing situation, and
to make known to us His will concerning our future proceedings, whether
we should persevere in fulfilling the whole aim of our voyage, or,
prevented by circumstances, give up a part, and return home from this
place.
The peace of God which filled our hearts on this memorable occasion, and
the strong conviction wrought in us both, that we should persevere, in
His name, to fulfil the whole of our commission, relying without fear on
His help and preservation, no words can describe; but those who believe
in the fulfilment of the gracious promises of Jesus, given to His poor
followers and disciples, will understand us, when we declare, that we
were assured, that it was the will of God our Saviour, that we should
not now return and leave our work unfinished, but proceed to the end of
our proposed voyage. Each of us communicated to his brother the
conviction of his heart, all fears and doubts vanished, and we were
filled anew with courage and willingness to act in obedience to it, in
the strength of the Lord. O that all men knew the comfort and happiness
of a mind devoted unto, and firmly trusting in God in all things!
When we made known our determination to Jonathan and his son Jonas, and
told them, that we had maturely considered the subject committed by them
to us, and that, in answer to our prayers, the Lord had convinced us,
that, not having obtained the aim of our voyage, we should proceed,
Jonas, at first, seemed not quite satisfied, but our excellent captain,
Jonathan, without hesitation replied: "Yes, that is also my conviction!
We will go whither Jesus directs us. He will bring us safe to our
journey's end, and safe home again." We were, indeed, glad and thankful
that the Lord had inclined the heart of this man, who but yesterday
seemed to be quite dispirited, to take this resolution, for much
depended upon him, and the rest followed him without difficulty. Indeed
they all submitted to our determination with a willing mind, and their
expressions of resignation affected us much.
During the day, the men had been out a-hunting, when Uttakiyok killed
three reindeer, which occasioned great rejoicing, and helped to make our
people forget the frightful scenes of yesterday. The country is full of
black looking rocks, between which reindeer-moss and berries grow in
plenty. The shore exhibited still many marks of the violence of the
storm.
20th. We proceeded with a favourable wind at N.E. Our course lay S.W.
across a broad bay, then, after doubling a point, across another bay of
about the same breadth, to an island _Allukpaluk_, which we passed on
the right, and on the left, another island, _Nipkotok_. At a
considerable distance a-head lay the islands _Pitsiolak_, opposite a
headland of the continent called _Tuktutok_.
The sky had been from the morning cloudy, the wind became unfavourable
and violent, and about noon heavy rain came on. Not being well able to
proceed, on account of the violence of the wind, we cast anchor on the
west side of _Pitsiolak_, about 2 P.M. but perceiving a thunderstorm
rising from the western horizon, with very black clouds, threatening to
drive us on shore if we remained at this anchorage, we weighed as
quickly as possible, and endeavoured to get to the other side of the
island.
Meanwhile a most tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and rain
overtook us. The claps of thunder followed the flashes without interval,
and the lightning seemed to strike into the water close to our boat,
while the wind carried the spray into the air like smoke. Providentially
we had doubled the northern point before the worst came on, and got to
an anchor under shelter of the land. The storm passed by swiftly, it
grew calm, the sun broke out, and the weather became uncommonly fine
with us, though at a distance we saw the black clouds, and heard the
hollow murmuring of the thunder for a long time.
We now expected to have a comfortable night's rest, but it grew
intensely cold, and again began to blow violently from the west. The
strong current and heavy swell brought us into some danger, and the poor
people, who were obliged to remain on deck all night, suffered much from
cold and wet. When the tide was full, about midnight, the island we had
seen to the west nearly vanished, the greater part being covered with
water.
21st. In the morning we again saw the skin-boat lying upon a pretty high
rock, and a tent pitched close to it. The weather was calm, but the wind
contrary. Our Esquimaux made good use of this respite to refresh
themselves after the fatigues of the night with a hearty meal and a
sound nap.
In the afternoon we landed. The island Pitsiolak, which forms two at
high water, is low and flat, overgrown with Empetrum and Rubus
Chamoemorus, (_Akpik_-berries). Quantities of driftwood float about the
shores. The jasper occurred here again. This island may be about four or
five miles long, and, at low water, is connected with other islands to
the north. By the help of our glasses we could perceive woods on the
continent, and the Esquimaux thought they discovered the smoke of Indian
fires. They are much afraid of meeting these people. Bloody encounters
occasionally occur between them. The Indians come from the interior, and
from Hudson's Bay, and are frequently seen near the two principal
rivers, George river and South river, towards which we were going; but
we met with none. Brother Kohlmeister rather wished for it, as some of
them are said to understand English, and he was desirous of endeavouring
to bring them to a more peaceable disposition towards the Esquimaux, by
friendly conversation.
22d. We found the skin-boat a great hindrance to us. Without being
obliged to take that in tow, we might have kept at a greater distance
from the shore, which would have enabled us to get on more rapidly, and
with greater safety. On shore we found a great quantity of cubical
pyrites in a grey matrix. The Esquimaux are attentive to this mineral,
and have before now brought it to Okkak.
23d. We proceeded at 6 A.M. and steered for the island of _Saeglorsoak_.
The islands called _Nocharutsit_ lay on our left. They are a group of
numerous small islands, many of which are overflowed at high water,
extending W. and E. towards the entrance of South river. Between these
islands and Akpatok, the sea is said to be clear of rocks, and the water
of sufficient depth for any ship entering from Hudson's Straits, and
bound to the Koksoak, or South river; but no ship durst, in our opinion,
venture to approach the coast of Ungava within twenty or thirty miles.
In the afternoon, the tide turning against us, and the wind
unfavourable, we were obliged to come to an anchor among the islands. We
had left the skin-boat behind, with Thukkekina, Uttakiyok's brother
Annoray, and one of his wives, to whom he had given his baggage in
charge. The Esquimaux wives are very punctilious, the first always
maintains the highest dignity, regulates the housekeeping, distributes
the provisions, and directs everything, as mistress of the family.
Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot a seal. We saw many, and fired at
them, but got none. Whitefish were likewise seen at a distance.
Uttakiyok and David were out in their kayaks, and joined us in the
evening loaded with geese.
On the turn of the tide we proceeded, and at ten P.M. cast anchor among
the Nocharutsits, under a pretty high island, about three or four miles
in circumference. All our people remained on board during the night,
which was calm and pleasant.
24th. David roused us about five o'clock, by firing at a seal, which he
killed. The women went on shore to cook it with some geese. When they
returned, we all breakfasted on the contents of their pot.
The Esquimaux want no books of cookery to manage their kitchen affairs.
The meat is boiled with the blood in it, and the addition of some water.
When it is sufficiently done, that is, according the Ungava custom, when
half warm, the women take it out of the pot, and serve it up on a piece
of stone, if on shore, and on a piece of board, if at sea. Then the
person, who has caught the seal or game, proclaims with great
vociferation, that the _men_ may come and sit down to eat. Such exertion
of voice, however, seems hardly necessary, as the Esquimaux are very
acute at hearing, when they are invited to dinner. When the men have
done, the women sit down, having taken good care, beforehand, that their
share is secured. The Esquimaux customs never permit men and women to
sit down together at a meal.
It sometimes happens among the heathen Esquimaux, that several having
had good success, one huntsman's feast is hardly over, before another
proclaims the invitation to his banquet. This is never suffered to pass
unnoticed, while the power of cramming down another morsel remains. Thus
they will continue eating, till they are scarcely able to breathe, and
then lie down to sleep off the effects of their gluttony. Indeed their
excessive voraciousness on such occasions produces, especially after
long fasting, all the symptoms of drunkenness. They forget, under its
sensual influence, all moderation, and abandon themselves to the most
disgusting abominations.
In the afternoon we steered W. by N. (wind N.E.), for the cape of
_Kernerauyak_, at the east side of the entrance of the river _Koksoak_,
(Sand river). Before we arrived at the cape, we left some islands to the
South, the largest of which is again called _Kikkertarsoak.
Saeglorsoak_, is a large flat island, about eight or ten miles long, and
its neighbourhood very dangerous, on account of many sunken rocks. The
continent hereabouts is well wooded, and Indians are said to be
frequently seen in the interior. The mouth of the Koksoak is seven or
eight English miles broad: its shores steep, but the rocks in general
low, and covered with moss. The Esquimaux say, that in the middle there
is water enough for any large ship, though the tides prevent any near
approach to the land. At sunset we came to an anchor at the mouth of the
river.