_Return to Okkak._
September 1st.--At ten A.M. we fell down the river with the ebb-tide,
and about noon anchored near its mouth. The Esquimaux showed great
attachment to us, and could hardly resolve to take a final leave. They
called after us, "Come soon again, we shall always be wishing for you."
Several of them, and among them our friend Uttakiyok, followed us in
their kayaks to the mouth of the river.
We erected here, on the promontory Kernerauyak, a board with an
inscription similar to that put up at George river, but with the day of
our departure inserted, viz. Sept. 1st, instead of the day of our
arrival, Aug. 7th. The same solemnities took place as on the former
occasion. Our faithful pilot Uttakiyok, who had rendered us such
important and essential services, now took leave of us, as he intends to
spend the winter in this neighbourhood. He repeated his assurance, that
if we settled here, he would be the first to join us, and to turn with
his whole heart to God. Not willing to be any longer incumbered with the
skin-boat, we added it to other useful articles given to Uttakiyok, as a
reward for his faithful attention to us. He was very highly gratified,
and thankful for this species of remuneration.
2d. Left the Koksoak, called by us, _South river_, and steered to the N.
of _Kernerauyak_ and _Kikkertorsoak_. In the evening we cast anchor in
an open road, among the _Nachorutsit_ islands, with fine weather.
3d. Set sail at sun-rise, wind and tide in our favour, and proceeded
rapidly. About noon, however, a fog came on, which obliged us to come to
an anchor at _Pitsiolak_. When it cleared up, we proceeded, steering
between _Allukpalak_ and _Nipkotok_, and cast anchor in the open sea,
near _Kernertut_, where, on our first arrival, we encountered such a
tremendous storm. The night proved quite calm and fair.
4th. A gentle breeze brought us pleasantly as far as the island
_Nauyet_, at the mouth of the _Kangertlualuksoak_, where we cast anchor,
having performed the same voyage in three days, which took us twelve on
our former passage. The distance may be about 100 English miles.
5th. Landed, and erected a species of landmark, on the highest point of
_Nauyet_, as a ship entering the river must keep near this island, the
shore on the other side being very foul. Contrary winds now obliged us
to enter the bay, and cast anchor in the same place where we had lain on
the 9th of August.
6th. Storm and rain prevented our proceeding. The Esquimaux went on
shore, and pitched their tent. Of late they generally spent the night on
board the boat.
7th. Wind at W. but a heavy swell from the sea prevented our sailing.
Our men went out to hunt, and Paul returned in the evening with a deer.
8th. Snow had fallen during the night, and the whole country had the
appearance of the middle of winter. We dropped down with the ebb-tide,
but were obliged to anchor again near the entrance of the bay. When the
tide turned we proceeded, and, leaving _Kikkertorsoak_ to the right,
made for cape _Kattaktok_, where we spent the night at anchor among some
low islands. The night was clear, and a comet appeared N. by W.
9th. Wind favourable and strong. We set sail at sun-rise, and steered
for _Uibvaksoak_, and so rapidly did our boat make way through the
waves, that we arrived there already at four in the afternoon, passing
swiftly by the Dragon's dwelling, (_Torngets_). A thunder-storm was
approaching. The wind, which felt quite warm, was in our rear, and
violent gusts assailed us now and then, which made us shorten sail; yet
the boat seemed to fly from island to island. We were unable to find a
safe anchorage till 8 P.M. when it was already dark. We had sailed, in
fourteen hours, about 100 English miles, and were all completely wet
with the spray of the sea and frequent showers. Our Esquimaux were
obliged, in this condition, to lie down either on deck or on shore.
10th. Reached _Omanek_, about 40 or 50 miles sail.
11th. Wind contrary, with much rain. We were confined to our narrow
cabin, and shut in all day, with a lamp burning.
12th. Clear weather: set sail at noon. In the afternoon we were saluted
by some shots from _Killinek_ Esquimaux, who were halting not far from
the Ikkerasak, or straits, at the entrance of which we cast anchor about
7 P.M.
13th. Though we wished to have some conversation with the _Killinek_
people, as they cannot often come to Okkak, yet we thought it adviseable
to lose no time, and, with the ebb-tide, passed through the _Ikkerasak_
in perfect safety. When, about 1 P.M. the tide turned, we ran into a
cove on the south side, and at 5 P.M. anchored in the lagoon above
described, (See page 43), the entrance to which will only admit a boat.
14th. Reached _Oppernavik_, where we first met Uttakiyok.
15th. Set sail with a gentle breeze, which permitted us to have our
Sunday's service on deck. The wind, however, soon turning against us, we
were compelled to return to our former anchorage.
16th and 17th. We were unpleasantly detained by wind and rain, and on
the latter day much snow fell.
18th. Reached _Kikkertarsoak_ about 1 P.M. Our men went out in their
kayaks, and returned in the evening with three seals. The night was
fair, with beautiful appearances of the Aurora Borealis.
19th. The morning was calm: some indications of approaching storm made
us anxious to proceed. We set out early; but a fog coming on, we came
again to an anchor off a barren island. After staying here two hours,
hoping for a favourable change, Jonathan proposed to proceed, and
steered S.W. not knowing rightly where we were. On this occasion, we
could not help admiring the composure of the Esquimaux. But having last
night made a hearty meal of the provisions they had acquired, they
seemed to take things easy, and thought it would all be right in the
end. So it turned out; for by and by we saw the continent, and kept
along shore, till we got to the promontory _Kakkeviak_, where, on our
passage, we had nearly suffered shipwreck. (See page 38). Here we cast
anchor in a wide shallow bay, and spent a quiet night.
20th. The fog had dispersed, and the wind was favourable, though
shifting from W. to N.W.N. and N.E. At 7 P.M. we reached _Kumaktorvik_
and found good anchorage close to the Esquimaux winter-houses; but we
were disappointed by finding them empty, the people being probably out
on the reindeer-hunt. There were four houses standing, apparently not
old, and the traces of eight others, situated on a low point of land,
well covered with grass, and surrounded by high mountains.
21st. Wind N.W. set sail by break of day; reached _Nennoktok_ about
noon, and steered across _Sangmiyok_ bay, for the northern promontory in
_Nachvak_ bay. Sangmiyok bay is full of breakers, and the sea running
pretty high, they appeared very distinctly. The wind dying away in the
afternoon, we got no farther than the steep rocks under which we had
spent the night of July the 18th, where we came to an anchor. A heavy
swell from the sea, and violent gusts of wind assailing us in all
directions from the mountains gave us much uneasiness; but, by the
protecting care of God, we suffered no harm.
22d. It blew hard from the N.W. and prevented our running into Nachvak
bay. Our situation being highly dangerous, and the wind favouring our
proceeding, we determined to pass by Nachvak. But having sailed across
the bay, our captain found it impossible to proceed, and thought proper
to come to an anchor. The truth was, that he had left some articles here
in a cove, which he wished to secure. We therefore went on shore, and
found many fragments of the bones of whales, whence we inferred that
whales are sometimes cast on shore in this place.
23d. A heavy storm came on from the N.W. To-day we caught the first
cod-fish, which proved a very acceptable change of diet for us and our
people.
24th. The morning was calm. Wind E. left the cove and steered for
Nachvak, and came, _accidentally_, to the very place where Jonathan's
goods were deposited. Not perceiving any Esquimaux on shore, Jonathan
and Thukkekina went up the bay in their kayaks in search of them.
Meanwhile _we_ landed, and on the declivity of a hill found a great
quantity of green soapstone. In the evening Jonathan and Thukkekina
returned with ten other Equimaux, who rejoiced to see us again.
25th. Brother Kohlmeister was engaged all day with the Esquimaux.
Brother Kmoch went up the mountain, and brought some fine specimens of
steatite.
26th. Wind strong at N.W. we set sail; but the wind failing, we could
not reach _Saeglek_, as proposed, but spent the night in the open sea.
It passed, however, without any unpleasant occurrences.
27th. The want of wind prevented our getting to-day as far as the
Saeglek islands. Having passed through a very narrow Ikkerasak, with
hardly sufficient depth of water for so large a boat, we cast anchor
near our former station at _Kikkertarsoak_.
28th. Wind cold and changeable, and towards evening stormy.
29th. Set sail about 6 A.M. with a strong wind at W. and in the evening
had reached _Kangertluksoak_ islands.
30th. It blew hard, with snow, and we were obliged to spend the day shut
up in our small cabin by lamp-light. The land was covered with snow. We
were detained here very unpleasantly for three days, by the violence of
the wind and weather.
_October_ 3d. We steered for the promontory of _Kaumayok_; but the wind
dying away, and at length turning to the South, we could not gain any
safe harbour, and were obliged to tack about all night in the open sea.
The weather, however, was mild, and we had the advantage of moon-light.
4th. At 7 A.M. we succeeded in passing the Northern Ikkerasak near cape
_Mugford_ with the tide, and the wind becoming fair, soon brought us
among the Okkak islands. About noon we doubled cape _Uivak_, and
perceived Esquimaux on shore, who ran up the hills, shouted for joy, and
gave us by signs to understand, that the ship (the brig Jemima, sent
annually with provisions to the settlements) was still at Okkak.
We cannot describe the inexpressible pleasure and gratitude to God our
Saviour which we felt, when we again beheld the neighbourhood of Okkak,
after an absence of fifteen weeks. As soon as the captain descried our
boat approaching, he hoisted his colours, and fired some guns to give
notice of our arrival. As we were obliged to tack, to gain the entrance
to the harbour, he came to meet us in the ship's boat, and about one
o'clock we landed. The Missionaries and the Esquimaux met us with tears
of joy and thankfulness, when we all joined in praise to God, who had so
wonderfully kept His protecting hand over us during this perilous
voyage, and granted us to return home in safety.
Our voyage lasted from the 24th of June to the 4th of October, and we
calculated it to be a distance of from 1200 to 1300 miles.
BENJAMIN GOTTLIEB KOHLMEISTER.
GEORGE KMOCH.
[Illustration: _The Northern Extremity of_ LABRADOR with UNGAVA BAY
Explored by the MISSIONARIES _of the Unitas Fratrum_ in 1811.]