_Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay. The Esquimaux
women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremony of taking
possession of this new-explored country, as belonging to the
King of England, and of naming the river George river. Leave
the bay and proceed to Arvarvik. Whales caught by the Esquimaux
in the shallows. Storm at Kernertut._
August 11th.--We rose by break of day, and after breakfast, sailed
across the bay, and landed at the second small inlet, with an intention
of penetrating into the country, but the returning warmth of the weather
by day, and the myriads of musquitoes we had to contend with, rendered
us unable to execute our purpose.
The Missionaries and Jonathan ascended a hill, from which a great tract
of country might be overlooked. It was full of wood, as far as the eye
could reach. Near the inlet some places seemed boggy, or covered with
grass. From hence a valley stretched into the country, with a small lake
in it, about two or three miles distant. Berries were every where in
abundance. The summits of the hills had no wood upon them, but much
reindeer-moss.
On our return, being about a mile from our landing-place, we saw our
skin-boat in the middle of the bay, and fired a gun as a signal for it
to come to us. The Esquimaux had five rein-deer in the boat, which
Uttakiyok had perceived on the opposite bank. He had followed them in
his kayak, driven them into the water, and killed them there. When hard
pressed, reindeer soon take to the water, and swim so well, that a
four-oared boat can scarcely come up with them, but an Esquimaux, in his
kayak will overtake them. They therefore, if possible, drive them into
the water, being then sure of their game.
After dining on part of the venison, we returned to the great boat. On
the passage, we thought we perceived at a considerable distance a black
bear, and Uttakiyok, elated with his recent success, hoped to gain new
laurels. He entered his kayak and proceeded as cautiously as possible
along the shore, towards the spot, landed, climbed the hill, so as not
to be observed, but when he had got just within gun-shot, perceived,
that his bear was a black stone. This adventure furnished the company
with merriment for the remainder of the voyage to the boat, which we
reached about six P.M.
When we got on board the boat, we found that all the women had taken
refuge in it, thinking that they had seen Indians onshore. The men
therefore immediately landed, to take care of the forsaken tents. This
was no doubt a false alarm, for we never discovered any traces of them
during our stay. To the south of Hopedale the Indians and Esquimaux
sometimes meet, but as the Hopedale Esquimaux seek to cultivate their
friendship, quarrels and bloodshed seldom occur. In Ungava, however,
though they often exchange tokens of friendship, they are apt to give
way to their national jealousies; and provocations being aggravated,
their meetings now and then terminate in murder. The Esquimaux are much
afraid of the Indians, who are a more nimble and active race.
12th. Having finished reconnoitring the neighbourhood, and gathered all
the information concerning it, which our means would permit, and
likewise fixed upon the green slope or terrace above described, as the
most suitable place for a settlement, on account of the abundance of
wood in its neighbourhood, we made preparations to proceed. Uttakiyok,
who had spent more than one winter in the Ungava country, assured us,
that there was here an ample supply of provisions, both in summer and
winter, which Jonathan also credited, from his own observation. The
former likewise expressed himself convinced, that if we would form a
settlement here, many Esquimaux would come to us from all parts. We
ourselves were satisfied that Europeans might find the means of
existence in this place, as it was accessible for ships, and had wood
and water in plenty. As for Esquimaux, there appeared no want of those
things upon which they live, the sea abounding with whitefish, seals,
sea fowl, &c. and the land with reindeer, hares, bears, and other
animals. The people from Killinek declared their intention of removing
hither, if we would come and dwell among them, and are even now in the
habit of visiting this place every summer. Our own company even
expressed a wish to spend the winter here.
This being the day before our departure, we erected, on two opposite
hills, at the entrance of the bay, high marks of stones, and on the
declivity of a hill to the right, a board, into which we had cut an
inscription, thus--
[Illustration: In front,
Georgius III. Rex.
Societas
Unitatis Fratrum.]
[Illustration: At the back.
Benjamin Kohlmeister,
George Kmoch,
Aug. 7, 1811.
The day of our arrival.]
We raised and fixed this tablet with some solemnity, in presence of
Uttakiyok and his family, as representatives of the people of Ungava,
and of our own company, and hoisted the British flag alongside of it,
while another was displayed at the same time in the boat. We explained
the cause of this ceremony to all present, to the following effect--
"That we, on this day, raised this sign, in the name of our king, George
III. the great monarch of all these territories, in testimony of our
having explored it, and made choice of it, in case we or our Brethren
should think proper to settle here. To which we called upon all present
to bear witness." We then proclaimed the name of the Kangertlualuksoak
to be henceforth _George River_, upon which every man fired his piece
three times, the vollies being answered from the boat.
The texts of scripture appointed for this day were then read, and we
remarked how encouraging they were, as relating to the purpose, for
which we visited these unknown regions:
_From the rising of the sun, even to the going down of the same, my name
shall be great among the Gentiles, saith the Lord of Hosts!_ Mal. 11, 1.
_At the name of Jesus every knee shall bow, of things in heaven, and
things in earth, and things under the earth; and every tongue shall
confess, that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the glory of God the Father!_
Philippians, 2, 10, 11.
After the ceremony was over, we distributed some pease, bread, and beer
among the Esquimaux, which enabled them to make a splendid feast, and the
day was spent in the most agreeable manner.
13th. We set sail, about six A.M. with a gentle breeze, which however
soon fell away entirely, and obliged us to take to our oars. Near the
mouth of the bay, we met several kayaks, coming towards us. They were
Esquimaux from Killinek, who expressed regret at not having sooner heard
of our being here; some came on board, and traded with our people. We
presented them with a little tobacco, for which they were very thankful.
In order to get well out of the bay, we first steered North, and then
passed to the S.W. between a peninsula _Nauyat_, lying to the left of
the entrance, and seven small islands and rocks on the right, towards
the island of _Arvarvik_, about six or seven miles distant, where we
were obliged to cast anchor in an exposed situation, the wind having
become contrary. There was a strong swell during the night, which
violently agitated our boat.
_Arvarvik_ is about five miles in circumference. It is covered with the
bones of whales, which the Esquimaux catch here in their kayaks. The
coast is surrounded by a great number of small low islands, with deep
pools between them. Into these the whales stray at high water, and at
the ebbing of the tide, are prevented finding their way back again. The
Esquimaux then pursue and kill them with harpoons. In the island are
ponds of fresh water, and some low hills, overgrown with moss. A great
number of sea-fowl, and also reindeer, are found upon it.
On the shore we found great quantities of a red jasper, or iron-stone,
the same which occurs throughout the coast, from _Killinek_ to South
river, not as a stratum, but in lumps, and generally below high water
mark.
The Esquimaux who landed on the continent reported, that about two miles
inland, there was much low wood.
14th. We left our unpleasant anchorage, and returned to a place where
the skin-boat had lain during the night, as it was sheltered from the
South wind, which had risen considerably.
15th. Our people went out to hunt reindeer, and returned in the evening
with two. The wind shifted to the west, and blew with violence. We spent
again an uneasy night.
16th. Brother Kmoch went on shore and returned with a parcel of stones
for examination. We now began to feel some anxiety on account of the
great loss of time we were suffering here by contrary winds.
17th. About eight o'clock we set sail, the wind having come round to the
S.E. with a cloudy sky. We passed several nameless islands, at the
distance of about a mile from the shore. In the afternoon, it began to
rain hard, and after having sailed about twelve miles, we cast anchor
near a long point of land, called _Kernertut_, by which we were
sheltered from the wind, which had again turned to the South-west. The
sky however was clear, and the beginning of the night pleasant, with
beautiful appearances of the Aurora Borealis. Most of our people, and
with them Uttakiyok, had gone in the skin-boat higher up the bay, but it
was too shallow to admit of our following them. Only Jonas and his
children, and the two boys Okkiksuk and Mammak, were left with us on
board.
During the night the wind veered round to the N.E. and blew a gale,
which increased in violence till day-break.
18th. The sea now rose to a tremendous height, such as we had never
before experienced, and by the change of wind, we were exposed to the
whole of its fury. The rain fell in torrents. We lay at three anchors,
and the boat was tossed about terribly, the sea frequently breaking
quite over her, insomuch that we expected every moment to be swallowed
up in the abyss. With much difficulty we succeeded in lowering our
after-mast. Jonathan and the rest of our company on shore, were obliged
to be passive spectators of the dreadful scene, waiting the event in
silent anguish. They quitted their tents, and came forward to some
eminences near the beach, where, by lifting up their hands, and other
gestures, they expressed terror, bordering on despair. Frequently the
boat was hid from their view by the waves, which ran mountains high.
They expected every moment that we should break loose from our anchors,
and the boat be driven on the rocks. The length of our cables was here
of the greatest advantage to us. About noon, the rope by which the small
boat was fastened, broke. She was immediately carried up the bay, and
thrown, by the violence of the surf, on the top of a rock, where she
stuck fast, keel upwards. It was impossible to render us any assistance,
till the tide turned, when the raging of the sea, and the wind, began to
abate. As soon as it was practicable, Jonathan and the other men came to
us in the skin-boat. He seemed quite overcome with joy, and, not able to
utter a word, held out his hand, and shed tears of gratitude that he met
us again alive, for he had given us up for lost.
We now endeavoured to bring the great boat closer to the shore, landed,
pitched our tent, and gave thanks to God for the merciful deliverance we
had just experienced. Indeed all our people most fervently joined in
praise to Him for the preservation of our lives. A warm dinner was soon
prepared, by which we were much refreshed.
As soon as the tide had ebbed sufficiently for it, our people went to
the rock, on which the small boat lay, and got her into the water. To
our great surprize we found, that she had received no material injury.