_Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach Nachvak.
Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay. Detention on account
of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak._
July 2d.--At one A.M. we set sail, steering for _Nachvak_, a distance of
about thirty miles. Here a chain of mountains runs north and south,
nearly parallel with the coast. The coast itself is of moderate height,
but very steep, and not being defended by any island, the approach to it
as a lee-shore, is very dangerous. It runs generally in a pretty strait
line about forty miles, when a wide bay opens, in which lies, towards
the north, an island called _Karngalersiorvik_, where there is said to
be a good harbour for boats. The rocks, of which the mountains are
composed, are of a white grey colour, streaked almost perpendicularly
with veins of black stone, about two feet broad. The intermediate strata
may be about eight times as broad. We had hoped to reach Nachvak in the
morning, by continuing our course through the following night, though
the wind was weak and variable, but in the evening we got into
drift-ice: yet as the shoals were not close together, we worked our way
through them; and stood on with the little wind we had at S.E.
3d. At dawn of day, and being still four miles distant from Nachvak, we
perceived both in the open sea, and all along the shore, that our
passage was completely occupied with floating ice, which drove towards
us, and forced us back. We then endeavoured to find shelter in a bay
bounded by high mountains, but found none, the wind driving the ice
after us into it, and soon filling it. Jonathan frequently cried out
with a plaintive voice: "Alas, alas, we shall soon be without a boat!"
We now hastened to the opposite shore to find some cove or inlet, but
getting more and more entangled among the ice, were at last obliged,
some to land, and haul the boat with ropes round the points, and others
with boat-hooks and spars, to keep her off the rocks. Two or three times
she stuck fast on sunken rocks, but by God's mercy always got off again
without damage. At length we discovered three narrow inlets, the
middlemost forming a bay, being the estuary of a river, which runs
W.S.W. about eight or ten miles up the country, and is called
Nullatartok. Into this we pushed, when shortly after our entrance, the
ice entirely filled up the passage, and we were compelled to retreat to
the uppermost part, choosing the shallowest possible spot to anchor in.
The bay itself is about two miles in breadth, and only in the middle
deep enough to admit the larger fields of drift ice to float into it.
The strand is broad, and slopes off gently. It is covered with large
tables of slate. The mountains on each side are high, and seem to
consist of ferruginous slate, the lamina or plates of which are of such
immense size, that they might serve for entire walls. Towards the sea,
there exudes from these rocks, a yellowish white substance, which has a
strong sulphureous smell. It was so powerful, that if a drop fell on a
piece of tinned iron, it removed the tin in a few minutes.
The vallies in the neighbourhood were green and full of flowers.
Not far from the spot where we had pitched our tents, (which rested upon
a carpet of _potentilla aurea_, in full bloom, bringing to our minds the
European meadows, full of butter-cups), the river, which is of
considerable breadth, falls into the bay. It abounds with fine
salmon-trout. Farther to the westward, two other rivers flow into it,
one of which is much broader than the other, and has a large cataract at
some distance from its mouth. The upper parts of the mountains are
covered partly with moss, and partly with low brush-wood, birch, and
alder, and many berry-bearing shrubs and plants, but no high trees. We
found here both arnica and colts-foot in great plenty. Brother
Kohlmeister gathered and dried a quantity of each, as they are used in
medical cases, and the former cannot be procured from England.
The slate is extremely shivery, and is found in slabs, either lying or
standing upright from four to eight feet square, most easily splitting
into thin plates. Ascending the mountain, they are soon dislodged, by
the tread of a man's foot, and glide down towards the beach with a
rattling, tinkling noise. At low water, we noticed a bed of stone
resembling cast iron, of a reddish hue, and polished by the friction of
the water. After supping on salmon-trout, caught in the first-mentioned
river, we retired to rest; but had some fears even here for the safety
of our boat, the ice pushing in towards us, and our people being
employed day and night in warding off the large shoals with their
boat-hooks.
4th. The weather being fair, Brother Kmoch ascended to the top of the
highest part of the mountain near us, from whence he could see nothing
but drift-ice, powerfully in motion towards the bay. Four of our
Esquimaux went up the country to hunt reindeer; saw eight head and two
fawns; but got none.
Perceiving that our abode in this place might be of some duration, we
for the first time pitched our tents on shore. Our morning and evening
devotion was attended by the whole party; and on Sundays we read the
Litany, and conducted the service in the usual way, which proved to us
and our Esquimaux of great comfort and encouragement in all
difficulties. We were detained here, by the ice, from the 3d to the
15th, and our faith and patience were frequently put to the trial.
Meanwhile we found much pleasure in walking up the declivities of the
hills, and into the fine green and flowery vallies around us.
5th. We went up the western extremity of the bay, but found nothing
worth notice. Here the rocks appeared to be of a species of freestone.
6th. In the evening we met in Jonathan's tent. Brother Kohlmeister
addressed the company, and reminded them, that to-day the holy communion
would be celebrated in our congregations, which we could not do in this
place, under present circumstances. Then kneeling down, he offered up a
fervent prayer, entreating the Lord not to forget us in this wilderness,
but to give us to feel His all-reviving presence, and to feed our hungry
and thirsty souls, out of the fulness of His grace. A comfortable sense
of His love and peace filled all our hearts on this occasion.
In the evening, Paul began to read out of the Harmony of the four
Evangelists, which we shall continue as often as circumstances will
admit of it. Jonathan and Jonas generally conduct the daily morning and
evening worship.
7th. We were so hard pressed by the ice driving towards us, that we were
obliged in part to unload the boat, to be able to bring it into a safer
situation in shallow water; and took our turns, three relieving three,
to watch and guard off the larger shoals with boat-hooks, by day and
night. We were glad to have reached a place, sheltered on all sides from
the wind.
8th. Our people went out to look for reindeer, and no prospect of our
proceeding to sea appearing, they resolved to stay out all night.
9th. Jonas returned and reported, that they had seen reindeer, but were
not able to shoot any. Paul and Thukkekina went to-day to the western
mountains, and staid over night.
10th. Brother Kmoch went to the westward to look for birds. He saw a
large flight of sea-fowl, but they were extremely shy, and would not
permit him to get near them. From the hills around us, we perceived that
the entrance into the bay was completely blocked up with ice; and
towards the sea, nothing but one continued field of ice appeared. We
sighed and prayed to the Lord to help us in this time of need. Jonas
went out in his kayak, and shot an _ugsuk_, not far from our tent.
Towards evening, we saw a fire made by our reindeer-hunters, at the
western extremity of the bay, and they fired their pieces to give us
notice, that they had got some game, and that we should fetch it with
the small boat.
Okkiksuk therefore went, and found them completely overcome with
fatigue, having dragged their game, across the mountains for a
considerable distance. The Esquimaux are indeed able to carry burdens up
and down hill, under which most Europeans would sink, but when they kill
a deer far inland, it is hard-earned food, by the trouble of carrying it
home. Paul had shot two reindeer, of which we received a portion.
Brother Kohlmeister had been on the other side of the bay, and returned
with a large parcel of plants and flowers, the examination of which
afforded him much amusement.
The Esquimaux now boiled a large kettle full of seal's flesh, of which
we were invited to partake. This we did, and thought it a very palatable
mess, particularly as we had tasted no fresh meat since we had left the
North Ikkerasak. The prejudice of the Europeans against seal's flesh,
consists mostly in imagination. The dirty kettle in which the Esquimaux
boil it, is indeed not calculated to excite an appetite, but the meat,
when eaten fresh, tastes much like beef; when cold, it acquires an oily
taste; nor durst a person, not accustomed to it from his childhood, make
a practice of eating it, as it is of a very heating nature, and would
soon bring on serious disorders. It generally prevents sleep, if eaten
at supper.
12th. The wind became West, and cleared the bay of the ice. Brother
Kmoch and Jonathan went to the opposite shore and found winter-houses,
one of which had been inhabited last winter; two others were in ruins.
They climbed the highest eminence towards Nachvak, but saw nothing but
drift-ice, covering the sea, with but few spots of open water, to the
north.
13th. It blew hard from the West. David and Okkiksuk crossed the bay to
explore the state of the ice from the hills. In the evening they
returned with intelligence, that the sea was cleared of ice to the
northward. David had caught a netsek, (a small species of seal), and we
had taken a good draught of trout in the net before our tent.
14th. Jonathan roused us at four in the morning, the wind being in our
favour, and we immediately made preparations to depart. After breakfast,
as we were praying the Litany, a sudden storm arose. We were assembled
in Jonathan's tent, and the stones and pegs, with which it had been
fastened down to the ground, being already removed, the tent-skins were
soon blown about our heads by the violence of the wind, and we were now
obliged patiently to wait till the storm abated. In the midst of our
deliberations, accompanied with expressions of our disappointment,
Thukkekina gravely observed, that we might very likely get away this
summer, and need not be dismayed. Towards evening, it fell calm, and the
musquitoes teazed us unmercifully. We supped on fresh salmon, filled our
tents with smoke, to keep off our winged tormentors, shut ourselves in,
and forgot our grievances and Thukkekina's consolations in sound sleep.
15th. In the morning at three o'clock, we took a final leave of
Nullatartok bay, and got under way with a favourable, though rather
boisterous wind at S.W. having been detained here for twelve days by the
ice. After about an hour's sail, we were near the entrance of the inlet,
when a sudden gust from the mountains carried away our after-top-mast,
with sail and tackle. It fell with great noise on the deck, and into the
sea. By God's mercy no one was hurt, and we were more particularly
thankful, that of the five children on board, none were just then on
deck.
It once happened, that the main-yard fell down, and but narrowly missed
striking two children, who with a third were sitting and playing
together. They must inevitably have lost their lives, had it fallen upon
them. We praised God for their preservation during the whole voyage. By
the above-mentioned disaster, we were obliged to run into a small cove,
where we repaired the mast with all speed, and proceeded with a gentle
wind towards Nachvak. A calm ensued, and as there is no anchorage
between Nullatartok and Nachvak, we rowed all night, and felt the
advantage of the great length of days, at this season of the year.
16th. The view we had of the magnificent mountains of Nachvak,
especially about sun-rise, afforded us and our Esquimaux great
gratification. Their south-east extremity much resembles Saddle island
near Okkak, being high, steep, and of singular shape. These mountains in
general are not unlike those of Kaumayok for picturesque outline. In one
place, tremendous precipices form a vast amphitheatre, surmounted by a
ledge of green sod, which seemed to be the resort of an immense number
of sea-gulls and other fowls, never interrupted by the intrusion of man.
They flew with loud screams backwards and forwards over our heads, as if
to warn off such unwelcome visitors. In another place, a narrow chasm
opens into the mountain, widening into a lagoon, the surrounding rocks
resembling the ruins of a large Gothic building, with the green ocean
for its pavement, and the sky for its dome. The weather being fine, and
the sun cheering us with his bright rays, after a cold and sleepless
night, we seemed to acquire new vigour, by the contemplation of the
grand features of nature around us. We now perceived some Esquimaux with
a woman's boat, in a small bay, preparing to steer for Nachvak. They
fired their pieces, and called to us to join them, as they had
discovered a stranded whale. Going on shore to survey the remains of
this huge animal, we found it by no means a pleasant sight. It lay upon
the rocks, occupying a space about thirty feet in diameter, but was much
shattered, and in a decaying state. Our people, however, cut off a
quantity of blubber from its lips. The greater part of the blubber of
this fish was lost, as the Esquimaux had no means of conveying it to
Okkak.
The Esquimaux stationed here showed great willingness to assist us; and
as our party was much fatigued with rowing all night, they towed us into
Nachvak, where we arrived about 2 P.M. Old Kayaluk and a young man,
Parnguna, and his wife, were here. The latter called on Brother
Kohlmeister, and thanked him for having saved her life. He had forgotten
that he had once given her medicine at Okkak in a dangerous illness, but
her gratitude was still unbounded.