_Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The Esquimaux
manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian deportment of
the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas's address to the
Heathen. Love of music general among these Indians. Departure
from Nachvak. Danger in doubling the North Cape. Arrival at
Sangmiyok bay._
July 16th.--After two or three hours sleep in our cabin, we went on
shore. The Esquimaux, who had here a temporary station, about fifty in
number, received us with every mark of attention. Loud shouts of joy
resounded from all quarters, and muskets were fired in every direction.
They could scarcely wait with patience for our landing, and when we
pitched our tent, were all eager to assist; thus we were soon at home
among them. Seven tents were standing on the strand, and we found the
people here differing much in their manners from the people at Saeglek.
Their behaviour was modest and rather bashful, nor were we assailed by
beggars and importunate intruders, as at the latter place, where beggary
seemed quite the fashion, and proved very troublesome to us. But we had
no instance of stealing. Thieves are considered by the Esquimaux in
general with abhorrence, and with a thief no one is willing to trade. We
have discovered, however, that that propensity is not altogether wanting
in the northern Esquimaux, who, now and then, if they think that they
can do it without detection, will make a little free with their
neighbour's property.
The Esquimaux not only gave us a most hearty welcome, but attended our
morning and evening prayers with great silence and apparent devotion.
Indeed, to our great surprise, they behaved altogether with uncommon
decorum and regularity during our stay.
17th. Being detained with drift-ice at the mouth of the bay, we pitched
our tent on shore. We examined the bay more minutely. It extends to the
West to a considerable depth, and is not protected by any islands,
except a few rocks, at some distance in the sea. The surrounding
mountains are very high, steep, and barren, and verdure is found only in
the vallies. Here the _arnica montana_, which the Missionaries have
found of great use among the Esquimaux, grows in great abundance.
Salmon-trout are caught in every creek and inlet.
Like the salmon, they remain in the rivers and fresh-water lakes during
the winter, and return to the sea in spring. The Esquimaux about Okkak
and Saeglek, catch them in winter under the ice by spearing. For this
purpose, they make two holes in the ice, about eight inches in diameter,
and six feet asunder, in a direction from north to south. The northern
hole they screen from the sun, by a bank of snow about four feet in
height, raised in a semicircle round its southern edge, and form another
similar bank on the north-side of the southern hole, sloped in such a
manner as to reflect the rays of the sun into it. The Esquimaux then
lies down, with his face close to the northern aperture, beneath which
the water is strongly illuminated by the sunbeams entering at the
southern. In his left hand he holds a red string, with which he plays in
the water, to allure the fish, and in his right a spear, ready to strike
them as they approach. In this manner they soon take as many as they
want.
The salmon-trout on this coast are from twelve to eighteen inches long,
and in August and September so fat, that the Esquimaux collect from them
a sufficient quantity of oil for their lamps. The immense abundance of
these fish on all parts of the coast, would almost at any time save the
Esquimaux from starving with hunger; but as seals furnish them both with
food and clothing, it is of most consequence to them to attend to this
branch of supply. At Hopedale and Nain, however, salmon-trout are caught
only in the summer.
We were much pleased with the behaviour of our own Esquimaux, during
their stay at Nachvak. In every respect they conducted themselves, in
word and deed, as true Christian people. Their conversation with their
heathen countrymen, was free and unreserved, and "to the use of
edifying." Jonathan and Jonas in particular, gave us great satisfaction.
The people having assembled in Jonathan's tent, those who had no room in
it, standing without and listening with great order and stillness,
Brother Kohlmeister addressed them, explaining the aim of our voyage;
that we were going, out of love to their nation, to the northern
Esquimaux, and to those of Ungava bay, to make known to them the love of
God our Saviour; and, by the gospel, to point out to them the way to
obtain life everlasting. We knew that they were heathen, who, being
ignorant of the way to God, were in bondage to the devil, and would be
lost for ever, unless God had mercy upon them and sent them his word, to
lead them to Jesus Christ their only Saviour, who shed His blood, and
died on the cross to redeem their souls.
They received the discourses and exhortations of the Missionary with
reverential attention, but those of their own countrymen, with still
greater eagerness, and we hope not without benefit. Jonas once addressed
them thus; "We were but lately as ignorant as you are now: we were long
unable to understand the comfortable words of the gospel: we had neither
ears to hear, nor hearts to receive them, till Jesus, by his power,
opened our hearts and ears. Now we know what Jesus has done for us, and
how great the happiness of those souls is, who come unto Him, love Him
as their Saviour, and know, that they shall not be lost, when this life
is past. Without this we live in constant fear of death. You will enjoy
the same happiness, if you turn to and believe in Jesus. We are not
surprised that you do not yet understand us. We were once like you, but
now thank Jesus our Redeemer, with tears of joy, that He has revealed
Himself unto us," Thus, with cheerful countenances and great energy, did
these Christian Esquimaux praise and glorify the name of Christ our
Saviour, and declare, what he had done for their souls, exhorting the
heathen likewise to believe.
The above address seemed to make a deep impression on the minds of all
present. One of their leaders, or captains, exclaimed with great
eagerness, in presence of them all: "I am determined to be converted to
Jesus." His name is _Onalik_. He afterwards called upon Brother
Kohlmeister, and inquired, whether it was the same, to which of the
three settlements he removed, as it was his firm determination to become
a true believer. Brother Kohlmeister answered: "That it was indifferent
where he lived, if he were only converted and became a child of God, and
an heir of life eternal." Another, named _Tullugaksoak_, made the same
declaration, and added: "That he would no longer live among the
heathen."
Though the very fickle disposition of the heathen Esquimaux, might cause
some doubts to arise in our minds, as to their putting these good
resolutions into practice, yet we hope, that the seed of the word of
God, sown in this place, may not have altogether fallen upon barren
ground.
In the evening, our people met in Jonathan's tent, and sang hymns.
Almost all the inhabitants were present. They afterwards spent a long
time in pleasant and edifying conversation. It may here be observed,
that the Esquimaux delight in singing and music. As to national songs,
they have nothing deserving of that name; and the various collectors of
these precious morsels in our day, would find their labour lost in
endeavouring to harmonize the incantations of their sorcerers and
witches, which more resemble the howlings of wolves and growlings of
bears, than any thing human. But though the hymn and psalm-tunes of the
Brethren's Church are mostly of antient construction, and, though rich
in harmony, have no airy melodies to make them easily understood by
unmusical ears, yet the Esquimaux soon learn to sing them correctly; and
the voices of the women are remarkably sweet and well-tuned. Brother
Kohlmeister having given one of the children a toy-flute, Paul took it,
and immediately picked out the proper stops in playing several
psalm-tunes upon it, as well as the imperfect state of the instrument
would admit. Brother Kmoch having taken a violin with him, the same
Esquimaux likewise took it up, and it was not long before he found out
the manner of producing the different notes.
18th. At 8 A.M. Brother Kohlmeister having delivered a
farewell-discourse to the Esquimaux, (during which they were much
affected), we took leave of these goodnatured people, and set sail with
a fair and strong West-wind, but met with much drift-ice at the entrance
of the bay. It made less way than our boat, and the wind becoming more
violent, we found ourselves in an unpleasant situation. After tacking
all day, and a great part of the night, the ice preventing our
proceeding, and the wind, our returning to our former station, we were
obliged to make for the Eastern point of the bay, where we at length
succeeded in gaining a small cove, and cast anchor.
Our situation was singular; the rocks rose in a semicircle around us,
towering perpendicularly to an amazing height, like an immense wall.
After a few hours stay, two Nachvak Esquimaux joined us, and prevailed
on Jonathan to return to the tents, but we had scarcely reached the
centre of the bay, before the violence of the wind drove us out to sea,
and we were compelled to push for the northern promontory, from which
all the ice had now retreated. Under the mountains we found shelter from
the wind, which had by this time risen to a storm. It was late, and as
it appeared dangerous to remain here, we rowed towards the point, but
there beheld, with terror, the raging of the sea and dashing of the
waves against the rocks, the spray flying like clouds into the air, and
returned into smooth water, where, however, we were long in finding a
place to anchor in. The night was spent quietly under shelter of the
high rocks. They form the base of mountains higher than the _Kiglapeyd_,
rise perpendicularly, in some places impending, with fragments,
apparently loose, hanging over their edge, and forming all kinds of
grotesque figures.
19th. At sun-rise we still saw and heard the storm which threatened us
with destruction, if we ventured to double the cape.
At nine the wind abated, and we set sail, got safe round the point, and
glided, with a gentle wind, into a broad, shallow bay, called Sangmiyok,
full both of hidden and visible rocks, in which we cast anchor about
five P.M. While Brother Kmoch superintended the concerns of the kitchen,
Brother Kohlmeister and Jonathan went on shore, and to the highest
mountain on the promontory. From the top of this mountain they could
plainly discern the four principal headlands between Cape Mugford and
Cape Chudleigh. The former situated in latitude 58° N. the latter in
61°. Between these are four promontories, in a line from S.E. to N.W.
The first is _Uivak_, at the entrance into Saeglek Bay, outside of which
a small island lies, in form of a pyramid or sugar-loaf. Next follow the
two forming Nachvak Bay, another _Uivak_ to the south of _Nennoktok_,
upon which we stood. The fourth is _Kakkeviak_, not far from Killinek,
or Cape Chudleigh, in form of a tent, called in the charts _Blackhead_.
_Nennoktok_ is called _False Blackhead_.