_Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and of
Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and its
Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the Esquimaux at
Kikkertarsoak._
June 29th.--We rose soon after two o'clock, and rowed out of the
Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea was perfectly calm and smooth.
Brother Kmoch rowed in the small boat along the foot of the mountains of
Kaumayok, sometimes going on shore, while the large boat was making but
little way, keeping out at some distance, to avoid the rocks. The
outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful figures.
At various points, the rocks descend abruptly into the sea, presenting
horrid precipices. The strand is covered with a black sand. At the
height of about fifty feet from the sea, the rocks have veins of red,
yellow, and green stone, running horizontally and parallel; and
sometimes in an undulated form. Above these, they present the appearance
of a magnificent colonade, or rather of buttresses, supporting a gothic
building, varying in height and thickness, and here and there
intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens, running far inland
between the mountains. Loose stones above, have in some places the
appearance of statues, and the superior region exhibits all kind of
grotesque shapes. It is by far the most singular and picturesque chain
of mountains on this coast. To the highest part of it we gave the name
of St. Pauls, as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed at a
distance, with its dome and two towers.
Before we left the Kaumayok, Brother Kohlmeister landed, and found the
beach covered with blocks of stone, in colour white and grey, like
statuary marble, but very hard. We now steered for _Kangertluksoak_, a
winter-station of the Esquimaux, where several of our people had pitched
their tents.
At noon, we were off an island, called _Eingosiarsuk_, (the Little Cup),
opposite the _Ittiplek_, (a flat piece of ground joining two headlands)
over which the northern Esquimaux pass in sledges to Okkak, round
Kaumayok. Farther towards the N.W. lies _Tuppertalik_, a high ridge of
mountains, which, from its appearance, we called the Table mountain,
having nearly the shape of the mountain so called at the Cape of Good
Hope.
To the north lies _Nellekartok_, the outermost island on leaving the
Ikkerasak, and the first of the _Kangertluksoak_ islands. Behind
_Tuppertalik_, a bay opens called _Nappartok_ (a wood), a
winter-habitation, with a little wood higher up the country, about eight
or ten hours drive from Okkak. A good harbour for large vessels is said
to be here, called _Umiakovitannak_, (Broad boat-harbour). Before the
entrance to _Nappartok_, lies an island, _Naujartsit_ (the Little
Sea-gull island). Seven or eight miles, north of Nappertok, a long flat
point runs out, terminated by a small island. On approaching towards
Kangertluksoak, a long island runs parallel with the coast called
_Illuektulik_, (a burial-place), between which and the main land is a
strait, affording good shelter for boats. Into this Jonathan intended to
run, but the wind being favourable, we kept on our course, and passed
two islands, _Kingmiktok_, (Dog island), and farther north,
_Kikkertarsoak_ a great island which defends the entrance into the
harbour of _Kangertluksoak_, from the sea. At ten P.M. we came to an
anchor in the harbour, and were received by our Esquimaux, of whom
several families were stationed here, as well as by the other
inhabitants, with demonstrations of great joy. Both the heathen who kept
on the right side of the great bay, and our own Christian Esquimaux, on
the left, fired numberless shots to welcome us. Several boats were here
from _Kittinek_ and _Nachvak_ bound to Okkak.
_Kangertluksoak_ lies about sixty miles north of Okkak, is an agreeable
place, and has a good strand, and safe anchorage.
30th. Being Sunday, the Missionaries went on shore, and visited all the
Christian families, by whom they were received with the most lively
expressions of affection and gratitude. Many strangers from the opposite
coast had joined them, and they all seated themselves in a large circle
on the grass.
_Nikupsuk's_ wife, Louisa, who had long ago forsaken the believers, was
here, and said, with much apparent contrition, that she was unworthy to
be numbered with them. She then seated herself at a little distance from
the rest.
The number of the congregation, including our boat's company, amounted
to about fifty. Brother Kohlmeister first addressed them, by greeting
them from their brethren at Okkak, and expressing our joy at finding
them well in health, and our hopes, that they were all walking worthy of
their Christian profession, as a good example to their heathen
neighbours. Then the Litany was read, and a spirit of true devotion
pervaded the whole assembly.
Our very hearts rejoiced in this place, which had but lately been a den
of murderers, dedicated, as it were, by the angekoks, or sorcerers, to
the service of the devil, to hear the cheerful voices of converted
heathen, most melodiously sounding forth the praises of God, and giving
glory to the name of Jesus their Redeemer. Peace, and cheerful
countenances dwelt in the tents of the believing Esquimaux.
Our people had caught a large white-fish, and pressed us much to be
their guests, which we should have accepted of with pleasure, but we
thought it prudent to avail ourselves of the favourable wind and
weather, to proceed. Instead, therefore, of dining with them, we
presented to each tent a quart of pease, which is considered by the
Esquimaux as a great luxury, and was received with unbounded
thankfulness.
About noon we set sail, with a brisk wind at S.E. for _Saeglek_. The
coast presents here, moderately high, barren mountains, without bays or
islands. The wind becoming more violent, the rope, by which we kept the
skin-boat in tow, suddenly snapt, and set her adrift. She was frequently
hid from our view by the height of the waves, but we were in no
apprehension about her, as these kind of boats are much safer in a high
sea, than a European one.
At seven P.M. we arrived at _Saeglek_, and were saluted by the firing of
muskets and bonfires on the hills. The Esquimaux have their dwellings on
a small flat island, between two of larger size, but the strand is bad,
and full of sharp shingles. There are about five or six winter-houses at
Saeglek, containing each about two or three families.
July 1st. Early, two Esquimaux men, _Joas_ and _Uiverunna_, came in
their kayaks to pay us a visit. They, with their families, inhabited
some tents we had seen yesterday. Brother Kohlmeister spoke seriously to
them on the necessity of conversion, especially to Joas, who had
Christian parents, and as a child, was baptized at Okkak. He reminded
him of his having been devoted to Jesus from his birth; that he
therefore ought not to belong to the unbelievers, but to Him who had
created and redeemed him; and that the greatest of all the sins he now
committed, was his persisting in his determination not to return. He
seemed to listen with some humility to the loving and earnest reproof
and exhortations of the Missionary, but at last excused himself by
laying the blame upon his mother, who kept him back, adding, that he
still intended to be converted.
Our people had meanwhile made a fire, and put the pot on to boil pease;
but the wind changing, Jonathan determined immediately to proceed. The
pease had just begun to swell, and as the two Esquimaux had presented us
with some fresh meat, they had been asked to partake of our meal; but
finding themselves thus disappointed, they fell to, and having greedily
devoured a quantity of the half-boiled pease, and filled their gloves
with the rest, they took leave, and set sail about 11, A.M.
Hearing from some Esquimaux who made towards us in their kayaks, that
the Saeglek people were all on the north side of the island of
Kikkertarsoak, we proceeded thither, and having doubled the point, saw
seven tents full of people. Two of them contained families from
Killinek. But the violence of the wind was such, that we could not stay
in this unsheltered place with safety. We therefore worked our way, with
the help of the Esquimaux, round another point, into a roadstead, rather
more sheltered than the former, though open to the sea. A little tobacco
is the reward expected and given for such assistance.
The beach is composed of numberless black pebbles, polished by the sea,
and each about the size of an hen's egg.
Brother Kohlmeister immediately landed, and visited the Esquimaux in
their tents. Many heathen were at this place, to whom he preached the
gospel, and invited them to believe in Jesus, as the Saviour of men, who
would deliver them from the love, power, and curse of sin, having shed
His blood, and died on the cross, to redeem their souls. He was heard
with great attention. A venerable old man, with hair as white as wool,
particularly attracted our notice. He called Brother Kohlmeister by
name, took hold of both his hands, and begged him to sit down by him.
Brother Kohlmeister inquired, whether he knew him. The old man replied:
"Thou art Benjamin, often have I heard thy name at Okkak. I therefore
rejoice to see thee." He seemed quite at a loss, what way to express his
affection; and at length delivered a strap of seals'-leather to Mr.
Kohlmeister, with these words: "I am poor, and have nothing else to give
thee, yet I wish to give thee some token of my love." Brother
Kohlmeister accepted of his present, and inwardly cried to the Lord, to
show mercy to this poor ignorant heathen. "You are old," said he, "and
have not much more time to live in this world, will you not turn to that
Jesus, who has died for your sins also? It is not His desire that you
should perish, and be lost in everlasting darkness, but that you should
live with Him in the place of light and immortal bliss." The old man
replied: "What shall I do? thy words are very pleasant, and I would fain
hear much more of Jesus. I do not wish to be lost in the place of
darkness." Brother Kohlmeister answered, that if he sincerely wished to
be saved, and was troubled on account of his sinful life he should
believe in, and call on the name of Jesus, who would certainly hear and
reveal Himself unto him. Many people were present in the tent, who
behaved with great decency, and whom Brother Kohlmeister earnestly
addressed on the necessity of conversion. He wished to prolong the
conversation especially with the old man, who promised, that he would
never forget the words spoken to him, but it was growing late, and we
returned to our cabin. The poor old man having sore legs, some medicine
was left for him.
The passage from Kangertluksoak to Saeglek is about twenty English
miles. Saeglek is a considerable promontory, open to the south.