_Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon. Drift-ice.
Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok Mountains. Fruitless
attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak, or Straits._
Nungorome is a cove on the south side of the Island Pacharvik. Between
this island the main land is a narrow strait, so shallow that no whales
can pass. The Esquimaux stretch their nets across, to catch seals,
seeking shelter in it when the wind sets in from the open sea. They can
only be taken in the night, and the greater part of those which frequent
this coast are of the _Kairolik_ kind, a middle-sized animal, and of the
_Ugsuk_, the largest species of the seal tribe, weighing sometimes from
five to six cwt.
The Esquimaux belonging to our congregation, who were at present
stationed here, in tents, were _Moses_, _Samuel_, _Thomas_, _Isaac_,
_Bammiuk_, and their families. _Solomon_, who has left our communion,
was also here. He had formerly been a communicant member of Okkak
congregation, but could not resist the temptation of going to the north
to feast with the heathen Esquimaux, whenever they had caught a live, or
found a dead whale. On such occasions he was seduced to commit many
irregularities and sins, but always returned to us with a show of great
contrition and repentance. After many relapses, he was informed, that
this would do no longer, but that if he went again to these heathenish
feasts, he would be excluded. He is a sensible, well-disposed man, and
perceived the justice of the sentence; but his love of that species of
amusement overcame all his good resolutions. He not only went again, but
took also another wife; a step which, of course, excluded him from our
fellowship. Yet he is very desirous that his children may receive a
Christian education, and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel.
25th. Brother Kmoch rose at half past one in the morning, and suffering
the rest to sleep on, got breakfast ready; he then fired his piece, by
which Brother Kohlmeister and all the Esquimaux, young and old, were
suddenly roused from their slumbers. Not one, however, regretted the
unexpected interruption to their pleasant dreams, on beholding the sea
quite free from ice, with a fine morning and fair wind; but after
yawning, stretching, and shaking themselves as usual, the Esquimaux with
great good humour got ready, and we set sail at half past three. Passed
Pacharvik Island at four. Bammiuk and Solomon accompanied us as far as
the North Ikkerasak (the Esquimaux name for a strait) between Cape
Mugford Island, in 58° N. latitude, and the mountains of Kaumayok. Their
being in company retarded our progress, but in the sequel proved no
disadvantage.
About nine, we entered the straits, and perceiving at a distance much
drift-ice a-head, cast anchor, and Brother Kmoch and Jonas landed on
Cape Mugford Island. An Esquimaux, called _Niakungetok_, accompanied
them to the top of an eminence, from whence the outer opening of the
Ikkerasak was seen. They perceived the ice driving into it from the sea
in such quantities as to threaten to close it up. Cape Mugford is an
high island, extending far into the ocean, and the northern land-mark in
steering for Okkak, _Kiglapeit_ promontory bearing south, and the
Saddle-island appearing right before the entrance of the bay. On their
return to the boat, the wind veered to the north, and we steered for a
dwelling-place of the Esquimaux, about twenty miles from Okkak, called
_Ukkuararsuk_. To our great joy the ice began now to drive out again to
sea, and we resolved to go with it. A gentle S.W. wind brought us to the
place, where we had before anchored, but we were now beset with large
fields of ice, among which we tacked, till we had nearly cleared the
straits, when the great quantity of surrounding ice, pressing upon us,
prevented our making further attempts, and we, were compelled to work
our way back with oars and boat-hooks.
On Cape Mugford island we now discovered more Esquimaux, who by signs
directed our course towards a convenient harbour, near their dwellings,
which we reached in safety.
The Esquimaux pitched their tents on shore, but we slept on board.
The situation of this place is remarkably beautiful. The strait is about
an English mile broad, and four or five in length. Both shores are lined
with precipitous rocks, which in many places rise to a tremendous
height, particularly on the Kaumayok side, from whence several
waterfalls rush into the sea, with a roar, which quite fills the air.
The singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased when
illuminated by the rising sun, the spray, exhibiting the most beautiful
prismatic colours. Below them huge masses of ice are formed, which seem
to lean against the sides of the rocks, and to be continually increasing
during the winter, but when melted by the power of a summer's sun, and
disengaged by their weight, are carried off by the tides, and help to
form floating ice-mountains. The coast lies S.W. by N.E.
26th. Being detained here by the state of the ice, and the weather fine
and warm, Brother Kmoch and Ogiksuk rowed across the straits to the
nearest great cataract, and were able, notwithstanding the steepness of
the ascent, to get pretty close to it. It falls fifty or sixty feet
perpendicular, and the noise is terrible. The spray ascending from it,
like the steam of a huge cauldron, wetted the travellers completely.
They amused themselves some time by rolling large stones into the fall,
which by its force were carried along towards the sea, down the sloping
torrent below. Our people meanwhile caught three seals, and made a
hearty meal, of which we also partook, hunger, on this occasion,
overcoming our dislike to seal's flesh. A sallad of scurvy-grass was
made for supper.
27th. We left this harbour about four A.M. with a favourable wind at
West, but as it soon died away, we took to our oars, and reached the
north point of Kaumayok, at the northern extremity of the strait. By an
observation taken by Brother Kohlmeister, this point is situated in 57°
59' N. latitude. Though calm, there was a great swell from the sea, and
the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain not a little, to the
diversion of the other Esquimaux. About two P.M. the wind shifted to the
N.W. By tacking we got to Kupperlik, about the middle of Kaumayok, but
having the skin-boat in tow, could not weather the point, and were at
length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the strait.
28th. The wind being North we could not proceed. We therefore ascended
the mountain of Cape Mugford. It is a barren rock, though here and there
a solitary plant or a tuft of moss clings to its steep sides, and is
difficult of access. The numerous waterfalls on the Kaumayok, which
still rose above us, were full in view, and we now discovered several
small lakes which supply them. Some of them fall from a great height
perpendicularly into the sea.
We could here discern the island of Okkak, to the S.W. to the East, the
boundless ocean, and to the N.E. three high, barren, and steep islands,
called Nennoktuts by the Esquimaux, (White mountains.)