citizens, headed by the French guards: About 4,000 troops, 52,000
stands of arms, besides cannon, ammunition, &c. were taken. In the
evening about 10 or 12,000 men, with two pieces of cannon, demanded the
ammunition deposited in the Bastille. The governor held out a white
flag, and opened one of the gates, through which about forty citizens
and soldiers entered: he immediately drew up the bridge, and his troops
massacred those that had entered. This breach of faith enraged the
populace: a battle ensued, and the Bastille was taken in about three
hours. The governor, the jailor, chief gunner, and two others were
carried prisoners to the Hotel de Ville, where they were tried and
executed, by being shot, and afterwards beheaded. M. de Flesselles, the
first municipal officer of Paris, underwent the same fate, on being
suspected of betraying the citizens. Their heads were carried in
triumph through the streets of the city. In taking the Bastille about
300 were killed, besides those the governor massacred. The prisoners
were liberated; and an old man, who had been in a dungeon thirty years,
fell down when he came out, by reason of the operation the light had
upon him.
Those that took the Bastille are honoured with a particular mark in
their apparel, to distinguish them from other people.
CHAP. VII.
_The_ Doctor _goes to the_ Champ de Mars--_an Air Balloon
descends on his Head.--He dines at a Grand Hotel, where commences_ un
tête à tête _with a fine Lady.--He goes to the Italian Opera._
Paris, July 18.
This morning, being Sunday, I sent my servant for a coach to carry
me to the _Champ de Mars_; but he returned without any, with this
intelligence from the coachman, _viz._ that they were all forbid to
move a coach that day, by reason of the great multitude of people that
was to convene; as it was supposed, that many would be crushed to death
if they were allowed to ride in coaches. The nobility, gentry, and
commonalty, were therefore all obliged to walk to the _Champ de Mars_;
at which place I took a seat, a little to the left of the National
Assembly, where I had a fine prospect. There was the greatest multitude
of people collected that I ever saw at one time, and they behaved with
decency and good order. The Marquis de la Fayette rode at the head of
the army, and was frequently honoured with huzzas, loud acclamations,
and other demonstrations of joy. Among the bands of music was a very
large drum, that seemed to make the earth tremble when it was beat.
I took a seat about ten, and tarried about five hours. About half past
one, an air balloon, of a large magnitude, ascended to the southward
of the _Champ de Mars_. It was conducted by a great number of men,
who held its lines, over the place where I was sitting. It descended
on our heads, and the French cried, _En bas, en bas, Monsieur_: Down,
down, Sir. I bowed myself almost to the ground, to prevent being hurt;
but arose, and pushed the balloon upwards with my hand: It ascended,
and went to the northward; but descended again several times, and
afterwards passed to the southward by the National Assembly, almost in
a horizontal direction. When it had got at a little distance from the
_Champ de Mars_, the inflammable air took fire, and the balloon split,
with a report something like that of a cannon. It was said that several
persons were considerably burnt when the balloon burst. I understood
the next day, that some of the French supposed, that a great blessing
will follow those upon whom the balloon descended.
After I had left the _Champ de Mars_, I dined at a grand hotel, where
thirty-two tables were spread in one room. At this place a French
lady viewed me with an _amorous eye_; and I perceived by some of her
_motions_, after I had dined, that she had an inclination to _lead me
into temptation_: but I was soon off with myself, and was thereby
_delivered from evil_.
In the evening I went to the _Italian opera_, where sixty-two persons
appeared on the stage at the first view. The vocal and instrumental
music was excellent, and the other performances very entertaining.
CHAP. VIII.
_The_ Doctor _views three Hospitals, and the largest
Cathedral in the Kingdom.--An Account of the Foundling Hospital. He
goes to_ Versailles--_views the King and Queen's Palaces, returns to_
Paris, _and sees the Dauphin of France_.
Paris, July 19.
This morning I viewed the grand hospital, the lying-in hospital, the
foundling hospital, and the greatest cathedral in the kingdom, called
_L'Eglise de Notre Dame_. It is a grand Gothic structure, has a very
fine choir, altar, &c. and many paintings, some of which represent the
miracles and resurrection of Christ.
There were 17,500 children belonging to the foundling hospital, above
7,000 of which had been taken in within the compass of a year. They
were kept very clean, and I did not hear a child cry amongst the whole
number.
The matron, or governess of the hospital, shewed me their grand stores
of linen and garments for the children, which was worth beholding.
This hospital is a most excellent institution: People of all kinds,
and from all countries, are allowed to bring their children into it;
and no questions are asked; only the person that leaves the child is
asked if the child has been christened. If that has not been done, they
get it done at the hospital. Those that bring their children put a
ribbon round their necks, or mark them with something whereby they may
be known in some future time, and they are permitted to take them away
when they please.
Those that remain in the hospitals, are put out to learn trades, when
they are old enough;--and sums of money are given to those who take
them.
I was told that a young woman from Great Britain had just lain in
at the lying-in hospital, and had put her child into the foundling
hospital. Perhaps she may pass for a _virgin_ again, on her arrival in
England!
This hospital must be of great utility to the people, because it
relieves the poor, and prevents murder; as women have not the
temptation to kill their children through fear of not having them
supported; and also, because it produces a great number of good members
of society.
After I had viewed the hospitals, I made a purchase of two books, which
contained all I was in pursuit after. I also viewed the house where
Voltaire the famous French poet died.
The same day I went in a coach with my servant to Versailles, which
is about twelve miles from Paris. We arrived there about noon; and I
viewed the king and queen's palaces, which are said to be the richest
in the world, or at least, the most beautiful and magnificent in
Europe. I also viewed the royal chapel and two of the royal theatres,
and the king's gardens planted with tropical and other trees, plants,
and herbs. The buildings are adorned and beautified with gold, and
many splendid ornaments, and there are a great number of statues, and
elegant paintings; all of which afford a very beautiful prospect.
Versailles is a pleasant place, and there are about 60,000 inhabitants
in the town. I dined after I had viewed the curiosities, and returned
to Paris in the evening, where I saw the Dauphin of France, attended by
a monk.
Versailles is said to be the dearest place for entertainment that there
is in France, owing to the great number of nobility and gentry that
resort there: Therefore ought every traveller to be well provided with
money when he goes to see that place.
CHAP. IX.
_Views two Hospitals, the Royal Observatory, and sundry other
Magnificent Buildings.--Goes to the French Theatre, &c.--A Caution
against going into bad Company._
Paris, July 20.
This day I viewed the charity hospital, and the hospital for invalids.
The latter is a large and elegant building, in which there is a chapel,
that is said to cover as much ground as the cathedral of St. Paul's,
in London. The floors of the domes are made of fine marble, and each
dome is dedicated to some saint, whose statue is placed in a niche, or
hallow. There are some of the finest paintings in this chapel that I
ever saw; and the hospital commonly contains about 200 officers, and
3,000 soldiers.
Afterwards I viewed the house of Bourbonne, and the royal observatory,
where _astronomical observations_ are taken. I looked through the
telescopes, and surveyed the mathematical instruments. I saw an
account of the late observations, and perceived that the French are
very accurate in performances of that kind: but I did not give them to
understand that I was a professor of the science.
I also viewed a great church, called _Jamies_, which has been near
twenty years in building, and is not yet wholly finished. In this
church there are some of the largest and finest pillars that I ever
beheld.
Afterwards I took a survey of the buildings and gardens which belong
to the king's eldest brother; and went to the French theatre and saw
the grand performances there. After the play was over, on returning
to my lodgings, I was seized on the way by a very gay young lady, who
accosted me with--_J' aime vous, Monsieur.--Voulez vous venir avec
moi?_--My answer was in the negative. I was obliged to break her hold,
and be off with myself. "Perhaps, said I, if I go with you, I may be
robbed and murdered: it is best for me to keep out of the fire whilst
it is in my power."
I had heard but a few days before of a man that was so simple as to
accept of the invitation of two lewd women, who took him to their
lodgings; but before morning he was robbed, not only of his watch and
money, but of his clothes, and turned out naked into the street by
some whore-mongers that frequented the house. This shews how dangerous
it is to venture one's-self amongst strangers, and especially those
of this sort. It is safest for every one, either at home or abroad,
to shun all such kind of company, as well as the company of thieves,
drunkards, gamesters, and those that use bad language: for the keeping
of bad company has been the destruction of thousands; and especially
the greatest mischief has been done among unthinking _youth_: their
inexperience, and unsuspecting dispositions, making them the fit
subjects for villainy to work upon.
CHAP. X.
_Contemplations, Philosophical and Moral, on the State and Condition
of the Living and the Dead, which the Author indulges at the Abbey of
St._ Denis, _where the Kings of France are buried_.
St. Denis, July 21,
_At half past one_, P. M.
I am now standing in the abbey of St. Denis, which is about six miles
from Paris, and have been told that all the kings of France, excepting
Lewis XVI. are buried here, and that the house of Bourbon lie under my
feet.--Alas! said I, here is the end of those mighty monarchs, that
once ruled the kingdom, commanded armies, fought battles, obtained
victories, collected riches, and enjoyed the honours, the profits and
the pleasures of this perishing world.--Here they lie silent! and their
dominion, strength, and power, are wholly gone!--Their bodies are
returned to the elements out of which they were formed, _viz._ to the
earth, air, fire, and water. Alas! continued I, the present king of
France, with all the mighty kings and princes on the globe, together,
with the rest of the human race, must soon pass through this change!
And not only the human race, but the birds, beasts and fishes, trees,
plants, and herbs; even every thing that hath life must be dissolved,
and return to the elements, _viz._ Earth to earth, air to air, fire
to fire, and water to water; for it is the _decree_ of the _Divine
Artificer_, who is the former of our bodies, and the father of our
spirits, that all these things shall _once die_!--And, none of the
mighty kings, or learned physicians, can hinder themselves or others,
from experiencing this awful change.
Moreover, I had further contemplations upon the state of the living and
the condition of the dead. I considered the mutability of our bodies;
that they are continually changing; that they increase in proportion
to the quantity of nutrition which they receive from meat, drink,
the circumambient air, &c. or, decrease in proportion to a want of
nourishment from those things.
That they are continually flying off by insensible perspiration and
other evacuations, and would soon come to a dissolution, if not
nourished by the vegetable and animal productions.
That the bodies we had seven years ago, are totally dissolved by those
evacuations; and from hence we have new flesh, new bones, new skin, new
hair, new nails, &c. formed out of the four elements.
That the time we have lived, is past and gone; and, that the time we
are to live is not yet come, so that we only live at the present time.
That death is only a change from this state to another,--as our
bodies return again to the elements, and our spirits to Him that gave
them: that the dead, being at rest, are totally free from the cares,
troubles, and vexations of a mortal life. The king is not afraid of
losing his kingdom, nor the beggar of perishing with hunger.
I beg leave to conclude this chapter with the following reflections,
which will not, I hope, detract from their solemnity, because cast in
a _poetical_ mould.
Short is our passage thro' this nether world,
For soon by death we from the stage are hurl'd.
The tender infants in their lovely bloom,
Are often hurry'd to the silent tomb!
Adults grown up, nay some of ev'ry age,
By cruel death are taken from the stage;
The high, the low, the rich, the poor, the small,
By the great _king of terrors_ soon must fall.
The richest man, (it cannot be deny'd)
Who with good things most amply is supply'd;
Soon, too, he feels th' impartial stroke of death,
Down falls his body, and off flies his breath:
But where it goes, or how far it doth fly,
No mortal man can tell below the sky.
The elements that in the body are,
Return to those from whence they taken were.
Thus, dust to dust, and air to air, we find,
And heat to heat, are soon again combin'd,
Water to water soon again doth flow,
And the whole mass to dissolution go!
Await, O man! thy doom; for 'tis the fate
Of ev'ry creature in this mortal state:
Yet shall th' immortal spark ascend on high,
Of righteous ones who _in the_ LORD _do die_.
Thus whilst their bodies are behind at rest,
Their pious souls with happiness are blest.
---- Again.----
O happy state in which the dead are cast!
Their pain is gone and all their trouble's past.
When roaring winds bring up the thick'ned cloud,
And the deep thunder rumbles out aloud;
When the earth quakes, when lofty cities fall,
When places sink, and can't be found at all;
When inundations o'er the land arise,
And burning mountains burst towards the skies;
When famine and the pestilence doth rage,
And wicked nations in a war engage;
When blood and carnage greatly doth expand,
And desolation overspreads the land,
And boist'rous tempests rage upon the sea;
Then are the Dead from danger wholly free.
They're not afraid of being hurt, or slain,
Like wretched mortals who alive remain.
Let not the living then at Death repine,
Since it was made by God an _act divine_,
To raise the Just--the _husband_, _child_, and _wife_,
From scenes of trouble to a better life!
CHAP. XI.
_Of the Curiosities in the Abbey of St. Denis.--The_
Doctor _views the King's Treasure.--Goes to the Italian
Theatre.--Observations on the Actors, &c._
Whilst I was at the abbey of St. Denis, I viewed many elegant statues
and paintings, and the font, or baptismal bason, out of which the kings
of France had been christened. Afterwards I was admitted by a monk into
the king's treasure, where I saw the crowns of the kings and queens of
France, with many golden vessels and splendid ornaments.
I dined at a hotel in St. Denis, and returned to Paris; but in my rout
I ascended a hill which commands a sight of the city, and affords a
fine prospect. On this hill there is a great number of wind-mills,
dwelling-houses, and other buildings. In the evening I went to the
Italian theatre, where I was very well entertained with performances of
different kinds. Their artificial thunder and lightning, was alarming;
as the claps were very loud and sudden, and the flashes appeared as
natural as those from the clouds.
The theatres in Paris are very large. They are opened at five o'clock,
and the performances begin at six, and end at nine,--which is much
better then to keep people till almost midnight; because they have time
to return to their dwellings in season.
I have often thought that the actors are deficient in one thing; that
is, in their not apprising the spectators of the subject before the
play begins; and whether it is to be a tragedy or a comedy, and who
or what it is to be in imitation of; and whether it is to represent a
battle, a duel, or a courtship, &c. for the entering upon these things
without any previous notice, is like a divine's preaching without
naming his text, or letting his auditors know what subject he is about
to discourse upon.
It is true, indeed, that the actors often send forth publications, to
let the people know what is to be represented such and such evenings;
but I do not think that more than one person in twenty that attends the
plays ever reads the publications; and those that do, are put to the
trouble of carrying them to the theatres, and of tracing them through
the evening, or they will not know before-hand what play is to be acted
next.
CHAP. XII.
_Views the Anatomical Productions at_ Cherenton. _A Description of the
Vineyards.--The People meet where the Bastille stood, and pray for
the Souls of them that were slain in taking that Place. Their Form of
Prayer.--Surveys the King's Physical Gardens._
Paris, July 22.
This morning I went to Cherenton, which is two leagues from Paris, and
viewed a great number of skeletons, not only of human bodies, but of
birds, beasts, and fishes; and I must join in opinion with the Spanish
physician, _viz_. that they exceed every thing of the kind in the
world, or at least that I ever saw or heard of. Here are skeletons of
infants and adults, mounted upon the skeletons of horses, of different
sizes; some with the bones only, and some with the veins and arteries,
muscles, &c. In short every part of the human machine is exposed to
the view of the spectator. The various parts of the body are also
preserved in spirits, and anatomy is demonstrated in all its branches
in the best manner; which must be of excellent use to young students.
As I was returning to Paris, I viewed a number of vineyards which are
cultivated for the purpose of raising grapes. The vines in general
were planted about two feet apart, and are hoed much like the maze,
or Indian corn, in America. In some places they have rows of potatoes
between the vines, but at such places they are planted more than two
feet apart; and for want of knowledge in philosophy, many hill their
potatoes too high, which hinders their growth, by obstructing the
rays of the sun from heating their roots.
The vines run upon poles, that are about four or five feet high; and
after the grapes are gathered in the fall, the vines are cut down close
to the ground, and from the roots another set arises, which bear grapes
the next year. It appears to me that such vines would grow in many
parts of America, if they were properly cultivated.
On entering into Paris, I passed by the place where the Bastille stood;
and, behold! a number of the priests, with a great multitude of people,
had met together to pray for the souls of them that had been slain,
when the Bastille was taken on the 14th of July, 1789. I was told, that
this was the first time that the priests and the people had met to pray
on that occasion since the battle happened.
The catholics have various forms of prayer, which they make use of
when they pray for the dead. The one for brethren, relations, and
benefactors, runs thus:
"O God, the giver of pardon, and lover of the salvation of man,
we beseech thy clemency in behalf of our brethren, relations, and
benefactors, who departed this life; that by the intercession of the
Blessed Virgin _Mary_, and of all thy saints, thou wouldest receive
them into the joys of thy eternal kingdom: through our Lord Jesus
Christ, _Amen_."
At the end of each form, the following is used: "Eternal rest give to
them, O Lord; and let perpetual light shine upon them."
After I had left the place where the people were praying, I walked
through the king's physical gardens, where there are about seven
thousand different kinds of vegetables, consisting of trees, plants
and herbs, collected from the four quarters of the globe, that can
possibly be made to grow in Paris. I have been informed, that this
botanical garden, and a museum of natural curiosities, which may be
seen every Wednesday and Friday in the afternoon, costs the king 72,000
livres _per annum_.
In these gardens there is a mount, which I ascended by a path that runs
round it, in a spiratic course. At the top of this hill I had a fine
prospect, not only of the gardens, but of the city.
I observed as I passed through the gardens, that the vegetables were
distinguished from one another by Latin inscriptions, as _calamus_
_aromaticus_, _sambucus_, _rhabarbarum_, &c.
CHAP. XIII.
_A Description of_ Paris.--_Of the River_ Seine.--_Of the
Climate.--Dress,--Anecdote of a Frenchman.--French Courtship, and the
Fondness of the Ladies_, &c.
Paris, the capital of France, is situated in lat. 48 deg. 50 min.
north; and long. 2 deg. 10 min. east of the royal observatory at
Greenwich; and is called one of the grandest and most beautiful cities
in Europe. It is built in a circular form, and was about eighteen miles
in circumference, 'till of late it has been made much larger by the
augmentation of their buildings, and the erection of a new wall,
which encompasses the old one at a great distance. The city is walled
in to prevent smuggling, sentries being placed at the gates, where
duties are paid, &c. The houses in this city are from six to eight
stories high in general, built chiefly of hewn stone, which are of a
lightish colour. These stories are much higher than ours in London. The
buildings are very magnificent; and the city is amazingly populous.
It contains upwards of 22,000 houses,--979 streets,--52 parishes,--130
convents,--28 hospitals,--and about 800,000 people.
The streets of this city are narrow; and being paved to the sides of
the houses, with stones much like those in the middle of the streets in
London, makes the walking inconvenient, and exposes travellers to the
danger of being hurt by the carriages.
It is a pity that the streets of Paris, and many other cities, had not
been laid out at right angles, at proper distances, and at convenient
breadths, when the places were first built.
Paris is divided almost into equal parts by the river Seine, which did
not appear to me to be so large as the river Thames. There is a number
of bridges over the Seine, and several of them have buildings on either
side, which form a complete street. This river rises in Burgundy, and
running through Paris, empties itself into the English Channel, between
Havre-de-Grace and Honfleur.
The tides are not strong enough to bring heavy vessels up to Paris.
The people are obliged to make use of long barges, and to tow them up
with horses. There are some water-mills erected on this river, for the
purpose of grinding grain, &c.
The air is much clearer at Paris than it is at London; and the
country is healthy: the climate in the south of France is called the
wholesomest in Europe. It is something remarkable that I did not see
one funeral all the time I was in France; which made me suppose that
they buried their dead in the night: but this, on enquiry, I found not
to be the practice.
The inhabitants of Paris are polite, gay and luxurious; many of them
very handsome. The amusements of the city are pleasing, and the people
enjoy their pleasures at a cheap rate, as foreigners contribute much
towards the support of their theatres, hotels, &c.
The people in France do not seem to be much given to intemperance; and
I was told, that when the farmers and mechanics have received their
wages, they spend them at home in their families, instead of being
drunk at ale-houses; a thing too common in England. I was also told,
that the French do not use so much corrupt and abominable language as
the English and Irish do.