Transcriber's notes:
Errata have been left as in the original book and not altered in the
text.
Obvious printer's errors have been corrected as they were not listed
in the errata.
Other than that, the archaic and inconsistent spelling from the
original has not been altered.
[Illustration: Dr. Samuel Stearns. An American Philosopher.]
Dr. STEARNS's
TOUR
FROM
LONDON TO PARIS.
CONTAINING,
A Description of the Kingdom of France--The Customs, Manners, Polity,
Science, Commerce, and Agriculture of the Inhabitants--Its ANCIENT
form of Government,--and the NEW--Particulars concerning the Royal
Family--Causes of the late Revolution--Proceedings and Decrees of the
National Assembly--An Account of the Destruction of the Bastille, and
of many dreadful Commotions which have happened in the Nation--With a
minute Detail of the late grand Proceedings at the Champ de Mars.--The
whole interspersed with a Variety of Reflections, _humourous_, _moral_,
_critical_, and _philosophical_.
AFTER WHICH IS DELINEATED,
A NEW CONSTITUTION:
WITH
A DESCRIPTION OF THE ROAD TO LIBERTY.
* * * * *
"Applicans animum meum ad disquirendum & ad explorandum Sapientiam
de omni eo quod fit sub cælis." Sol.
* * * * *
LONDON, Printed:
AND SOLD BY C. DILLY, IN THE POULTRY.
* * * * *
M DCC XC.
PRICE 3S. STERLING.
Entered at Stationers Hall.
PREFACE.
Kind Reader,
As I am obliged to spend the greatest part of my time in mathematical,
philosophical, and physical studies, it was not my design to have
written on this subject, although I was advised to do it more than
twelve months ago; but on seeing the movements in France, on account
of the _Revolution_, I altered my mind, kept a journal of many things
which I saw and heard, and have accordingly written the following
pages, which are presented for your perusal and consideration.
I have endeavoured to avoid error, and to compile the narration as
accurate as possible: if any thing of that kind shall be discovered,
I hope it will be imputed to my being misinformed, and not to any
intention of mine to impose upon the public.
As it is the duty of every philosopher to promote the union, harmony,
and felicity of mankind, I have mentioned many things which I hope
may be productive of establishing the peace and happiness of the
inhabitants of the world. But, alas! it is to be regretted, that
some who have shone greatly in the philosophical profession, instead
of promoting this laudable work, and for the sake of ingrossing the
riches, honours, and profits of this perishing world to themselves,
have, under a cloak of religion and liberty, sowed discord amongst
brethren, excited insurrections, mobs, and riots, which have terminated
in carnage and desolation, and proved destructive of the public
tranquillity, and of the liberty and happiness of the people. But these
abominable works are by no means the business of a true philosopher,
who will attempt to do good instead of doing evil.
How far the politicians of the present, or future ages, may agree with
me in sentiment, time alone must determine. But if the things that are
written in the subsequent sheets shall prove useful and profitable, it
will rejoice the author.
After wishing your health and prosperity, and the felicity of mankind
through the world,
I subscribe myself,
kind Reader,
Your's and the Public's
most obedient
humble Servant,
SAMUEL STEARNS.
London, Sept. 30, 1790.
ERRATA.
Page 13. line 13. for _ni_ read _in_.
14. ---- 3. -- _abliged_ read _obliged_.
18. ---- 19. -- _was_ read _were_.
23. ---- 5. -- _market_ read _marked_.
26. ---- 7. -- _received into the centre_ read
_received them into the centre_.
36. ---- 18. -- _meteria_ read _materia_.
71. ---- 10. -- _malconduct_ read _maleconduct_.
96. ---- 20. -- _againt_ read _against_.
98. ---- 15. -- _The semicolon should have been placed
after the word_ only;--.
TOUR
FROM
LONDON TO PARIS.
CHAP. I.
_The_ Doctor _engages a Passage to_ Paris.--_Copy of a Card
received at Piccadilly.--He arrives at_ Dover, _and_ Calais.--_Is
met by a number of Gentlemen, who welcome him to France.--An Account
of the Beggars, and of the French Diet.--Observations on drinking
Healths._
July 7, 1790.
Having had an inclination to go to Paris for some months past, I went
to Piccadilly this day, where I engaged a passage on board the stage
coaches, called the diligences, for which I paid five guineas, and was
told "That I would be found for that sum, with every thing that might
be needful on the way, only I must give about five shillings to the
porters."
At Piccadilly I received a card, a copy of which I publish for the
information of strangers, and benefit of the owners of the stages.
"The Paris diligences to and from London, set out from the office next
the White Bear Inn, Piccadilly, every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday,
at five o'clock in the morning. Five guineas each person, for carriage,
sea passage, diet and lodging: Port fees excepted. Fourteen pounds
luggage allowed; all above to pay three-pence farthing per pound.
"N. B. In case passengers should be detained by contrary winds, they
are to pay their own expences from the next day of their arrival at the
seaport, to the time of their shipping.
"Also a wagon, every Monday at ten o'clock in the morning, to carry
goods and merchandize, which are registered at the said office, and at
the Blossoms Inn, Lawrence-lane, Cheapside, where declarations must
be delivered in writing, and signed by the owner, of the quality,
quantity, and value of the said merchandize, which will be conveyed to
Paris in the course of a fortnight, at the rate of seventeen shillings
per hundred weight, Custom-house duties excepted. The proprietors, for
the conveniency of the public, will discharge the said duties either in
England or France, and charge them with the carriage to the person they
are directed to, without requiring any interest or commission whatever.
"Attendance at the above offices every day from nine in the morning
till seven in the evening, where parcels are registered to Paris, and
to every part of France.
"*** Passengers luggage must be sent to the office between six and
seven o'clock in the evening, or it will be left 'till the following
carriage."
As I was on my way to Piccadilly, I was informed that the king of
France was to be crowned on the fourteenth of this month, and sworn to
adhere to the new Constitution which has been framed by the National
Assembly. This made me anxious to get to Paris as soon as possible: but
being told the places were all taken in the coaches, and that it was
impossible for me to set off till the 12th, I was obliged to wait till
that time, but was informed that I must be at Piccadilly with my trunk,
&c. by seven in the evening of the 11th; and I was there at the time;
lodged at the White Bear inn, and at five the next morning set off for
Paris in company with five gentlemen. A lady in a post-chaise overtook
us near Greenwich, and came into the diligence.
We breakfasted at a good inn on the road, and dined at Canterbury,
where the lady left us, and at evening reached Dover, where we supped,
lodged, and went to breakfast. About eleven in the morning of the
13th, we embarked for Calais, and arrived there in about three hours;
but had a very rough passage, in consequence of which almost every lady
and gentleman on board was afflicted with sea-sickness, which I believe
was advantageous to the greatest part of us.
On our arrival at Calais a great number of French gentlemen came to
our vessel, to welcome us to France, and invite us to put up at their
houses; but on finding that some of us belonged to the diligences, and
that there was a place prepared for our entertainment, they went off
disappointed.
Although we had been told that we should have nothing to pay, only
about five shillings to the porters, we found ourselves mistaken; for
we were obliged to pay for the wine which we drank when we dined and
supped on the preceding day, and to give money to a swarm of servants,
&c. At Calais we were obliged to give in a list of our names to the
Custom-house officers, and to give them some money to buy liquor with,
that they might drink our healths--that being the custom, as we were
told.
We put up at a hotel, called _De la Messagrie_; where we left another
list of our names; for such were the orders of the mayor of the city.
An English lady that had come from Dover with us, and was a decent
well-behaved person, and one of excellent sense and understanding, put
up at this hotel: she told me she had travelled above 4,000 miles on
the European Continent, had been through France, Germany, &c. and was
then on her way to Flanders.
At this place we were soon beset with a number of beggars, as
1. By a priest of the order of St. Francis.
2. By the captain of the vessel, that brought us over the English
Channel.
3. By the steward of the vessel.
4. By the sailors that came with us.
5. By the poor of the city.
6. By the porters, &c.
We gave the priest some money, and he pronounced a blessing and
departed very well pleased. I was told that he and his convents got
their living altogether by begging. We gave the captain half a crown
a-piece, and some silver, sous, &c. to the other beggars.
In a few minutes another swarm of beggars came that belong to Calais,
and as we did not supply all their wants, some of them broke one of
the windows belonging to the room where we were sitting, by a rapid
stroke with a stick, stone, or some such thing.
We soon sat down to dinner. The table was spread in an elegant manner,
with napkins laid in our plates, which we used to keep our clothes
clean.
I was asked, _A'imez vous la soupe à la Françoise, Monsieur?_
My answer was--_Oui, Madame_.
Besides soup, we had beef, mutton, veal, rabbits, hares, geese, fowls,
pigeons, &c. several sorts of pies, excellent wine, and sweet cakes,
figs, appricots, cherries and strawberries; the latter we mixed with
white sugar and wine, and eat the composition with spoons, which is the
French fashion. Their loaves of bread were about two feet in length,
and six inches in breadth, and their knives had picked points, and
their forks four tines a piece. Every one of us was allowed a tumbler
to drink out of: but the French do not drink healths, though they
pretended at the Custom-house, that we must give them money to buy
liquor with for that purpose. We did not pay for our wines in France as
we were on our way to Paris, as we had done at Dover, &c.
The drinking of healths has been, and still is, too much practised both
in Great Britain and America; and especially among the lower class
of people. For when Timothy Toss Pot is in company, he says, "_Your
healths ladies and gentlemen_," every time he drinks, which will be
perhaps fifty times in an evening; whereas it might be as well, nay
much better, to drink their healths but once, or not at all, which
would save much trouble, and prevent the company from being interrupted
with such clamours.
I have asked why the health drinkers do not follow that practice when
they drink tea, or coffee; as the Irish woman did when she partook
of the sacrament; and have been told, that it is _because it is not
the fashion_, and that from hence it has been omitted. The fashion,
however, must be followed, right or wrong; for, Out of the fashion out
of the world, according to the old woman's scripture: And, When we are
among the Romans we must do as the Romans do. For,
"Custom is a living law, whose sway
"Men more than all the written laws obey."
Says the poet. Because it is customary I have sometimes been induced to
drink healths myself, when I have been in company, through fear that I
should be called an uncivil and an unpolite person. But this needless
custom is now growing out of use; for our nobility and gentry have
discovered that it is superfluous, and many of them have forsaken the
needless practice; which example will undoubtedly be followed by the
commonality in process of time.
We are told in Bailey's Dictionary, that the custom of drinking healths
sprang from Rowena, a beautiful daughter of Hengistus, general of the
Saxons. The general invited king Vortigern to supper, and after it was
over called for Rowena, who, richly attired, and with a graceful mein,
enters with a golden bowl full of wine in her hand, and drinks to the
king, saying, "Be of health, lord king:" to which he replied, "Drink
health." The king enamoured with her beauty, married her, and gave her
and her father all Kent. This was upwards of 1300 years ago.
We are also told in the Historian's _Vade-mecum_, that the custom of
drinking healths was in fashion so early as 1134 years before Christ.
The accounts do not agree, and which is the truest I cannot tell.
CHAP. II.
_The Latitude, Longitude, and Description of_ Calais.--_The_
Doctor _and others obliged to wear National
Cockades.--English Money and Bank Notes not passable in France.--How
Strangers ought to be dressed.--A Table of French Coins, with their
Value in English Money.--Of French Measures, in Length._
Calais is situated in latitude 50 deg. and 58 min. North, and longitude
1 deg. and 49 min. East from the Royal Observatory at Greenwich. It
is a very pleasant town, invironed with ramparts thrown up at a vast
expence.
At this place we found the people under arms, and they seemed to
be filled with joy in consequence of the Revolution. We that were
strangers, were obliged to put on and wear National Cockades, to
prevent being insulted by mobs; and no lady or gentleman was suffered
to travel without.
Whilst we tarried at Calais we were informed that English money would
not pass in France, and that it would be best for us to get our guineas
changed. We therefore took change for some, and received 26 livres for
each guinea, although an English guinea commonly passes for but 24
livres in France. Hence, about twelve-pence is lost by the exchange.
Bank notes are not negotiable in France; therefore those that travel
into that country, ought to take gold and silver, otherwise they will
meet with much difficulty. If you draw on the bankers, they will charge
you eight _per cent._ discount; but sometimes it is done at _par_ by
French merchants who want to send money to London. No money is allowed
to pass in France, unless coined in the present king's reign. Strangers
ought therefore to be upon their guard, lest they get imposed upon by
taking old coin.
They that go to France ought to dress in the French mode, to prevent
being known by sharpers, who sometimes try to take the advantage of
those they find to be foreigners.
As it may be of some utility to strangers going into France, I will
just add
A TABLE _of_ FRENCH COINS, _with their value in_ ENGLISH.
| £. _S._ _D._ | £. _S._ _D._
A Louis d'or, 24 Livres | 2 0 0 | 1 0 0
A Grand Ecu, 6 ditto | 0 10 0 | 0 5 0
The Ecu, 3 ditto | 0 5 0 | 0 2 6
The Vingt-quatre Sols Piece | 0 2 0 | 0 1 0
A Livre | 0 1 8 | 0 0 10
A douze Sols Piece | 0 1 0 | 0 0 6
A Six Sols Piece | 0 0 6 | 0 0 3
A deux Sols | 0 0 2 | 0 0 1
A Sols 1/2 | 0 0 1-1/2 | 0 0 0-3/4
A Sol, or Sous | 0 0 1 | 0 0 0-1/2
A deux Liard Piece | 0 0 0-1/2 | 0 0 0-1/4
A Liard | 0 0 0-1/4 | 0 0 0-1/8
A louis d'or is a gold coin. A grand ecu, the ecu, vingt quatre sols
piece, the livre, a douze sols piece, and the six sols pieces, are
silver: though a livre is no coin, but nominal only. The deux sols, and
the sols and half, are a mixture of copper and silver, and the other
coins are all copper.
The French measure the distances between their towns by leagues, posts,
&c. and a post is two leagues, of their measure.
A French league is fifty-seven yards and nine inches longer than an
English league.
A French toise, or fathom, is 76-3/4 inches longer than an English; and
a French foot is equal to 12-79/100 inches English measure, &c.
CHAP. III.
_Leaves_ Calais.--_A Description of the Stage Coaches in France.--The_
Doctor _arrives at_ Paris.--_A further Account of the
Beggars.--With a Description of the Country._
Early in the morning of the memorable 14th of July we left Calais,
and proceeded in a stage coach, drawn by eight horses, on our journey
towards Paris.
These coaches are almost as large as a small house. They are very
heavy; and eight persons may sit comfortably in the inside, and I
believe a dozen more upon the outside. We had a conductor who rode
armed on the fore-part of this wonderful machine, and a very large dog
sitting upon his rump at the conductor's left hand; both of which were
employed as sentinals to guard us on the way.
The harnesses for the horses were made of ropes instead of leather, and
were very long. Hence, as our coach was very large and the traces very
long, we made a grand appearance as we travelled!
Upon the hindmost and foremost horses, on the near side, two Frenchmen
were mounted, with boots of a most surprizing magnitude, so well
constructed with leather, wood, and iron, that if a horse falls down
the rider is not in much danger of having his legs broke; for the
prevention of which, the boots were thus made.
The horses were not quite so large as ours in England; but we drove
about five or six miles in an hour, and at the end of every post the
horses and postillions were changed. The postillions received twelve
sous of us when we parted with them, which gave content.
We breakfasted at Boulogne, dined at Montreul, and in the evening came
to Abbeville, where we lodged. The people were in arms through the
country. Scarce any body was at work in the fields, as it was a time
of feasting, and all seemed rejoiced at the sound of the liberty they
expect, in consequence of the great and glorious Revolution.
At this place there was a young lady, who manifested by her actions,
which speak louder than words, that she had an inclination to lodge
with me that night; but as I had no disposition to deal in such
commodities, she was disappointed.
The next morning we set out early, breakfasted at Amiens, dined at the
Breteuil, supped at Clermont, and rode all night; but were obliged to
pay for our breakfasts out of our own pockets the next morning before
we came to Paris. We arrived at Paris about nine in the morning, being
the 16th of July, having been four days and four hours on our journey.
We were abliged to give the conductor half a crown a-piece; and I spent
near three guineas on the way, besides what I paid at Piccadilly.
At Paris we had our trunks searched at the Custom-house, and went from
thence in a coach to the _Hotel de Beauvais, Rue des Vieux Augustins,
No. 69, Quartier du Palais Royal_, where a gentleman that had come from
London with me, and myself, hired three large rooms, neatly furnished,
for four livres a-day. We breakfasted at this place, which cost us
fifteen sous a-piece each morning, besides what we gave to the servants.
I hired a servant, who remained with me all the time I tarried at
Paris: he charged me forty sous per day; but he conducted me so well,
that I gave him more than double that sum.
I found Paris very full of people from the country, and from foreign
parts. They had met to celebrate the Revolution, and tarried till the
next Sunday in order to have another grand convention at the _Champ de
Mars_.
Whilst we were on our way from Calais to Paris, we were followed, in
some of the intermediate towns and villiages, by swarms of beggars, who
seemed to be in great distress. I asked the reason of their begging;
and was told that they were reduced to poverty in consequence of the
commercial treaty between England and France; that the manufactories in
Great Britain were so much cheaper than they were in France, that the
merchants bought many of their goods in England, which had thrown those
poor people out of employ, and obliged them to beg for a livelihood.
We frequently contributed to the relief of those distressed objects:
but because we could not give to every one, some of them threw a stone
at our coach, which did not happen to strike any of us. At, and near
Paris, we found but a few beggars, in proportion to the great number of
people. Some how or another, they seemed to be much better provided for
than they were in the country.
The face of the country between Calais and Paris, appears much like
many parts of the Province of Quebec, in America. But I think the soil
is not quite so rich. Though some have supposed it is full as good by
nature as the island of Great Britain; and that it would produce as
large crops, if it was as well manured and cultivated. I was told, that
agriculture had been much discouraged in France, before the Revolution,
by reason of the oppression that the peasants were under.
More then three-fourths of the land between Calais and Paris, appeared
to be overspread with grain, consisting of rye, wheat, oats, and
barley. There was also some excellent hemp and flax. The people had
begun to reap, and there was a sign of a very plentiful harvest; but
the crops were not so large in general as they are in England. We saw
but a very few cattle, horses and sheep, and those we did see were
small. The fields are not fenced, but lie open to the high-way. We
often passed by boys holding cows to feed, by lines tied round their
horns, to keep them from running into the fields. The wages for reaping
are, generally, thirty sous per day. Both men and women follow the
business, begin early, and lie down on the ground, and sleep in the
open sunshine, at about ten or eleven in the morning; a practice which
I esteem to be unhealthy. Perhaps one may see fifty asleep at a time.
CHAP. IV.
_Views and Describes the_ Champ de Mars.--_Goes to the Royal Palace
belonging to the Duke of Orleans.--Dines with the French Officers at
the Grand Hotel._
On the day of our arrival at Paris, I went in a coach with the
gentleman that had put up at the hotel with me, and viewed the _Champ
de Mars_. Here we saw great multitudes of people, eating, drinking, and
dancing at the sound of the bands of music. At this place the oaths
of allegiance had been administered to the people on the preceding
Wednesday; and both the king and the subjects were sworn to adhere to
the constitution that has been framed by the National Assembly.
Some of the French took me by the hand when I entered into the _Champ
de Mars_, and cried, "Entrée, entrée, Monsieur." I viewed the place
with admiration, and was informed that it took about fifty thousand
people near ten days to erect the seats and other great works there.
The _Champ de Mars_ was formed into a grand amphitheatre, having at
one end the military school, against which was erected a covered
gallery two hundred and twenty-eight feet (French measure) in length,
and twenty-one in heighth, for the king, queen, foreign ambassadors,
national assembly, &c. &c. and at the other the triumphal arch; from
which, to the military school, on either side were thirty rows of
seats raised one above another, two thousand seven hundred and ninety
French feet in length. In the middle of the area was an altar in a
circular form, whose circumference was six hundred and forty-eight
feet, French measure, and whose heighth was twenty feet, built of stone
taken from the Bastille. The rest of the area, except the places for
the federation, was filled with seats; the whole forming an oblong,
capable of accommodating between four and five hundred thousand people.
Out of these limits were a number of galleries, erected for a great
multitude of spectators. Opposite the triumphal arch, a bridge of boats
was thrown across the Seine, and the banks of the river was lined with
cannon.
For a great distance round the _Champ de Mars_, a number of temporary
buildings were erected for the entertainment of the people.
When we had surveyed these admirable works, we went to the royal
palace, which was built by cardinal Richelieu, and given by him to
Lewis the XIV. but is now the town seat of the duke of Orleans, who is
a nobleman of royal blood, and enjoys the greatest revenue in France.
This palace is a most elegant and magnificent structure, which is
adorned and beautified with splendid ornaments, that dazzle the eyes
of a spectator. In the centre of this structure is an oblong square,
laid out in beautiful walks, interspersed with trees, flowers, &c.
Sometimes the duke resides in one part of the palace himself. But the
other part is let out in shops, which are under piazzas, and the rooms
over them to gay fashionable ladies and gentlemen.
In this palace there is a gallery, which contains most of the
illustrious personages that France has produced, drawn by the greatest
masters: Italy has been ransacked, and no expence spared to make the
whole complete, with pictures, busts, statues, medals, and other
curiosities worthy of being collected. It is thought that this building
exceeds all in Europe for beauty and grandeur.
After we had viewed the palace we went to a grand hotel, where we dined
with a great number of officers. We had a variety of dishes, very
excellent wines, and was entertained with much civility and politeness,
and at a very reasonable rate. At evening we retired to our lodgings,
very well pleased with the entertainments of the day.
CHAP. V.
_The Contents of the King's Proclamation.--Of the Obedience paid to
it--and, the Proceedings of the Grand Confederation, on the 14th of
July, at the_ Champ de Mars.
Having in the preceding chapter given a description of the _Champ de
Mars_, I shall attempt in this to exhibit how matters were conducted
on the 14th: but it may be proper to premise, that on the 11th, the
king, to prevent confusion and disorder, wisely issued a proclamation,
setting forth how the different corps that were to compose the
confederation was to march, &c. His majesty ordered that no troops, but
those on guard, should be armed with guns; nor any carriages suffered
to follow those of his majesty, the royal family, and their trains.
That if any deputy of the confederation, or person invited, should be
unable to walk, they might ride in a carriage, and be escorted by a
_Chevalier d'Ordonnance_ to the military school, providing they had
permission from the mayor of Paris.
That M. de la Fayette should be commander-general of the Parisian
national guard, then charged by a decree of the national assembly, and
sanctioned by his majesty, with the care of the public tranquillity,
should fulfil, under the king's orders, the functions of major-general
of the confederation; and in that quality the orders should be given
and observed as the orders of his majesty himself.
That the king had in like manner nominated M. Gouvion, major-general of
the Parisian guard, lieutenant-general of the confederation for the day
of the ceremony.
That when all persons were placed, the blessing the flags and colours
should be proceeded to, and the celebration of the mass.
That the king empowered the said M. de la Fayette, to pronounce the
confederation oath in the name of all the deputies of the national
guards, and those of the troops and marines, according to the forms
decreed by the national assembly, and accepted by his majesty; and that
all the deputies of the confederation should hold up their hands.
That then the president of the national assembly should pronounce the
civic oath for the members of the national assembly; and that the king
should in like manner pronounce the oath, the form of which had been
decreed by the national assembly, and accepted by his majesty.
That the _Te Deum_ should be sung, and conclude the ceremony; after
which the procession should return from the _Champ de Mars_ in the
same order it came.
In obedience to this proclamation, an order of procession was drawn up,
and proper measures concerted to prevent tumult and disorder, by M. de
la Fayette, and M. Bailli, the mayor of Paris.
On the 13th, at ten o'clock in the evening, 4000 Paris guards on
the outside of the _Champ de Mars_, and 2000 within, were placed to
preserve order. Before eleven the people began to assemble and seat
themselves and came in small parties till day-break; from three to
nine they poured in in crowds at the great avenues, where the guards
cautioned them not to hurry.
By ten o'clock the seats were filled, the outside gallaries, the
windows, and roofs of houses; and every place where a glimpse of the
grand procession could be had, was filled with people of all ranks,
sexes, and ages, who kept their places till the business was finished,
notwithstanding the rain fell in torrents, accompanied with cold
squalls of wind from eight till four.
Those guards that were not wanted in the procession, danced in circles,
and in great parties marched triumphantly at the beat of the drums,
with their hats and caps on the points of their swords, forming
battalions, and making sham fights, &c. Sometimes they ran in all
directions, flourishing their swords, and being filled with joy cried,
"_Vive la Libertie! Vive la Loi! Vive la Roi! Vive la Confederation
National! Vive mon Frere!_"--embracing one another, and the spectators
that sat near them.
One, personating a victim of tyranny, was carried with great solemnity
to a market spot, where the body was laid, and made the occasion of
more firmly uniting, which was testified with a variety of actions.
Having an abbé within the circle, they marched him round with a gun in
his hand and a grenadier's cap on his head; and in the same manner they
marched a capuchin friar.
At seven o'clock a crucifix was placed on the great altar.
Just before nine a body of priests appeared on the altar, and tied
sashes of national colours around their waists, and decorated the
crucifix, and various parts of the altar, with ribbons of the same.
At half past ten the bishop of Auton, with more than one hundred
priests, proceeded in a double line, guarded by a strong body of
national troops, from the grand pavilion to the altar, carrying with
them the tables with the commandments, and the sacred books. When they
had ascended the altar they began the ceremony of consecrating it.
Just before twelve, a grand salute of one hundred cannon announced the
near approach of the procession to the triumphal arch; and the guards
formed into ranks for their reception.
The national federatives, and all who assisted in the grand procession,
had assembled at six this morning on the Boulevards, between the gates
of St. Martin and St. Antoine, and were drawn up in the following order:
1. A troop of horse, with standards, and six trumpets.
2. One division of music, consisting of several hundred instruments.
3. A company of grenadiers.
4. The electors of the city of Paris.
5. A company of volunteers.
6. The assembly of the representatives of the commons.
7. The military committee.
8. A company of chasseurs.
9. A band of drums.
10. The presidents of the districts.
11. The deputies of the commons, appointed to take for them the federal
oath.
12. The sixty administrators of the municipality, with the city guards.
13. The second division of music.
14. A battalion of children, pupils of the military school, carrying a
standard with the words,
"The hopes of the nation."
15. A detachment of the colours of the national guard of Paris.
16. A battalion of veterans.
17. The deputies of forty-two chief departments of the nation, in
alphabetical order.
18. The _oriflamme_, or grand standard of France, borne by the
marischalls of France, general officers, officers of the staff,
subaltern officers, commissioners of war, invalids.
19. The lieutenants of the marischalls of France,--deputies of
infantry,--deputies of cavalry.
20. Deputies of hussars, dragoons, and chasseurs.
21. General officers, and deputies of the marine, according to rank.
22. The deputies of forty-one last departments, in alphabetical order.
23. A company of volunteer chasseurs.
24. A company of cavalry, with a standard and two trumpets.
Each department was preceded by a banner, borne by the oldest deputy.
These banners were a present from the city of Paris. They consisted
of two branches, forming an oak wreath, tied together with national
coloured ribbons, bearing on one side--_The National Confederation at
Paris, July 14, 1790_; and the other--_The Constitution_, with the
number and device of the department to which they severally belong.
The military deputies had only their side arms.
At nine the procession passed along the streets of St. Denis, of the
Forronerie, to St. Honoré Royal, to the palace of Louis XV. where they
halted; and the detachment of the colours of the national guard Paris
opening to the right and left, received into the centre.
The procession then moved on through the _Cours la Reine_, along the
quay to the bridge of boats; and the deputies from the provinces
received loud acclamations of applause from the people, which were
answered by _Vivent lis Parisians!_
At the end of the bridge the triumphal arch appeared, adorned with
various allegorical paintings which represented the gate of St. Antoine.
Over the principal entrance, referring to figures that were darting
through all the obstacles to reach the law, was inscribed on the side:
"Sacred to the grand work of the constitution: We will finish it."
On the other:
"Under this defender, the poor man shall no more fear lest the
oppressor should spoil him of his heritage."
Over the lateral entrance on the left side, figures of warriors taking
the civic oath, seemed to utter,
"Our country, or the law alone can arm us: Let us die to defend it,
let us live to love it."
Over the lateral entrance, on the right, heralds sounding trumpets,
proclaimed peace throughout the kingdom, and the people were singing,
"Every thing is propitious to our happiness; every thing flatters
our wishes; sweet peace drives tumult far from us, and fills up the
measure of our pleasures."
On the front, next the amphitheatre, over the middle arch, was a
picture of deputies from various nations, come to do homage to the
national assembly, with this inscription:
"The rights of men were unknown for ages: They have been
re-established for the whole human race."
Under this picture,
"The king of a free people is alone a powerful king."
Over a picture--a woman chaining lions to her ear, with Force and Power
in her suite, and leaning on the book of the law. The king and queen
holding the dauphin by the hand, follow, preceded by a group of sages.
A combat is exhibited with a dreadful hydra, whose head was seen struck
off.
"We dread you no more, ye subordinate tyrants, who oppressed us under
a hundred various names."
In another place an immense multitude listening with attention to the
sage exhortations of a victorious warrior, who seemed to say,
"You prize this liberty, you possess it while you do: Shew yourselves
worthy to preserve it."
At one o'clock the van of the procession appeared under this triumphal
arch.
M. de la Fayette leading a body of cavalry, himself mounted on a milk
white charger, rode into the amphitheatre amid the acclamations of
the people, _Vive la Fayette!_ The cavalry filed off to the right,
and ranged themselves in the exterior line, on the opposite side to
the entrance. The company of grenadiers formed under the steps of the
amphitheatre, as well as all the companies who were employed as escorts.
The civil bodies took the places allotted for them, which was
previously marked out. The battalion of youths of the military school,
formed about one hundred paces from the grand altar, crossing the
_Champ de Mars_; but facing the altar on the side next the military
school.
While the national assembly passed through the triumphal arch, the
escort of colours passed through the lateral gates, and the members
took their seats on the right and left of the chair of state, and the
chair of their own president.
The battalion of veterans was placed a hundred paces behind the altar,
across the _Champ de Mars_, but facing the altar.
The detachments of the national guards, appointed to take the oath,
ranged themselves under each banner, indicative of his place in the
amphitheatre.
The music collected into one band, and occupied the side of the
platform under the altar, next to the invalids; and the band of drums
were placed on the opposite side.
The detachment of cavalry that closed the procession, formed the
exterior line, on the side where they entered, opposite to the first
detachment.
The altar was after an antique model. The ascent to it was by four
stair cases; at each corner was a platform supporting an urn, which
exhaled perfumes. On the south front were these verses from Mahomet,
under a picture of arts and sciences:
"Les mortals sont egaux, ce ne'st pas leur naissance,
"C'est la seule vertu qui fait leur difference."
"Men are equal: it is not by birth. It is virtue alone that confers
distinction."
And these,
"La loi dans tout doit etre universelle,
"Le mortels quels qu'ils soient egaux devant elle."
"The law in all things ought to be universal: Men of all descriptions
are equal in its eyes."
On the opposite side were four angels sounding trumpets, with this
inscription:
"Hold in your remembrance these sacred words, which are the guarantee
of your decrees;--The nation, the law, and the king. The nation is
yourselves--the law is your own, for it is your will--and the king is
the guardian of the law."
On the front, next to the Seine, was the figure of Liberty, dispersing
the surrounding clouds, with attributes of Agriculture, and Abundance;
and the Genius of France hovering in the air, and pointing to the word
_Constitution_.
On the front, facing the throne, were warriors pronouncing the federal
oath, _viz._
"We swear to remain ever faithful to the _nation_, the _law_, and the
_king_: to maintain, with all our power, the constitution decreed by
the national assembly, and accepted by the king: to protect, according
to the law, the surety of persons and property, the circulation
of corn and provisions within the realm, the levying of public
contributions, under whatever form they may exist; and to continue
united to all the French by the indissoluble ties of brotherhood."
At three the signal was made for conducting the _oriflamme_, or sacred
royal standard, with the banners of the eighty-three departments, to
the altar to receive the benediction.
Upon the same signal the queen, (with her attendants) made her
appearance in a partitioned place immediately behind the king's chair,
having the dauphin with her, whom she placed on her knee: she was well
received, and the dauphin much applauded. She was most becomingly
dressed; her cap decorated with pearls, a pearl necklace, and pearl
ear-rings.
As soon as she was seated, the king entered and took his chair of
state, which was fixed upon a line with a lesser chair, upon which the
president of the national assembly sat. From the top of the king's
state chair, the crown had been removed, and the cap of liberty
substituted in its place. He was superbly dressed in a rich suit of
gold tissue, and appeared to be in good spirits. He directed his
conversation to the president, and it drew forth continual bursts of
applause.
At forty minutes after three the conclusion of the ceremony of
consecrating the banners was announced, by a heavy discharge of the
artillery, and the sound of martial music.
The banners having rejoined their several stations, the great body of
the national guards, who hitherto had lined the extreme of the inner
circle, now formed on each side a half circle, from the foot of the
pavilion steps to the altar; the ensigns of each of the sixty of Paris
districts, all of which were extremely beautiful, and various in their
devices, being marched first up to the front of the pavilion, and
saluting as they passed it.
The bishop of Autun, as grand Almoner, assisted by sixty deputy
Almoners, elected by sixty districts of Paris, then celebrated mass, to
the sound of the musical instruments.
Some delay took place in the expectation that the king would advance to
the altar, and there take the civic oath. But his majesty remained on
the throne.
M. de la Fayette then gave the signal for the national deputies to come
forward and take the oath. He ascended the altar; and on the sound of
the trumpet, extending his right hand, and looking steadfastly at the
altar while the oath was reading, pronounced the words,--"I swear it."
Which the national guards all repeated after him, turning round their
hats on the points of their bayonets.
The discharge of a bomb was the signal.
Mons. Bonnay, the president of the national assembly, next rose from
his seat, and advancing to the front of the covered gallery, in which
the members of the national assembly and the civil bodies were seated,
fixed his eyes on the altar, extended his right arm, and as the oath
was repeating, pronounced with great dignity, "I swear it:" followed
in like manner by the legislative, and the deputies of the civil and
municipal bodies.
At forty-five minutes past four the king rose; and, waiting till every
thing was silent, read very audibly, and with an excellent majesty of
manner, the OATH[1] assigned to him; extended his arm, looked
steadfastly at the altar, and pronunced, "I swear it."
Footnote 1: "I swear to be faithful to the Nation, the Law, and the
King, and to maintain the Constitution to the utmost of my power, as
decreed by the National Assembly, and confirmed by the King."
The acclamations of the people, shouting "_Long live_ Louis,
_our Country, and Constitution!_"--the clattering of sixty thousand
swords, the waving of one hundred and forty-three banners and ensigns,
and the discharge of an immense line of artillery, excited feelings
which words cannot express, and which the human imagination, unaided
by a view of the grand and glorious scene, can form no adequate
conception of. The awful and unbroken stillness maintained during the
administration of the oaths, rendered the acclamations which followed
more forcible than they would otherwise have been.
_Te Deum_ was then sung by a choir of more than three hundred voices,
accompanied by three hundred drums, and all the military musical
instruments.
The ceremony being over, the king went away almost immediately.
The procession moved off in the order in which it entered.
The people walked home as they came, without crowding; and in little
more than an hour the place was cleared.
A repast for the deputies was served up at the _Chateau de la Muette_.
Each battalion of Parisian guards undertook to be entertainers of
their provincial brethren, who all partook of the repast with the
utmost order.
Thirty thousand persons dined in the gardens, and wine and provisions
were distributed to more than one hundred thousand. The people were
so temperate, that I cannot learn that any of the troops were seen at
night reeling about the streets, in a state of intoxication.
The day concluded with dances in all places near the _Champ de Mars_.
In the evening a superb fire-work was exhibited in the square of the
_Hotel de Ville_; and at night there was a general illumination.
This is the most accurate account that I have been able to obtain of
the proceedings of the king and the people.
As it is thought there were more people collected together upon
this occasion then ever met at one time and place in the world, and
as some people are desirous of having a particular description of
the transactions of the day; it is hoped the reader will excuse the
author for being more than usually copious in the incidents treated of
throughout this chapter.
CHAP. VI.
_Inquiry is made whether the_ Doctor _had Recommendations,
&c.--His Advice to Gentlemen and Ladies.--He is visited by a Physician
to the Court of Spain.--Views the Place where the Bastille stood.--How
that Place was taken, and the Governor and other Officers executed._
Paris, July 17.
This morning the gentleman who had put up at the hotel with me, asked
if I had any letters of recommendation from any gentlemen in London, to
any in Paris? I told him I had not: that I had had the offer of some,
but for the want of time did not go to receive them: That as I could
not tarry long, and had money enough to bear my expences, I believed
that _that_ would be recommendation enough, if I behaved well. I had
though, by the way, a general recommendation from some gentlemen of
my acquaintance, but it was not directed to any body in particular in
Paris; and I also had a diploma in my pocket, which was a sufficient
recommendation, in any quarter of the globe; but I did not let the
inquirer know I had any such thing with me. He seemed to think I would
cut but a poor figure without recommendations; but as it happened I
had no need of shewing any--though I would not advise any gentleman
or lady to travel without; because a recommendation may be of great
service sometimes, and especially in a time of war.
At about nine this morning, I was visited by M. Iberti, _Docteur en
Médecine_, and physician to the Court of Spain. He informed me that he
had heard that an English physician had arrived, and that he was come
to tell me, that if he could be of any service to me any way, he should
be happy in doing of it. I thanked him for his kindness, and told him
that I wanted to get an account of the practice of the hospitals, and
with that an account of the operation of medicines in France:
That for more than sixteen years I had been preparing for publication,
a New Dispensatory, which will contain;
1. The _meteria medica_.
2. The operation of medicines.
3. The art and science of pharmacy.
4. The composition of medicines.
5. An index of diseases, and their remedies; with,
6. The manual operations and remedies used in surgery.
That the work would be adorned with cuts of the chymical and surgical
instruments, and also with chymical characters and botanical figures:
That I had travelled in Great Britain and America, to obtain knowledge;
and was come to Paris for the same purpose.--
Said he, I am employed by the court of Spain on the same business, and
have travelled through England, Scotland, and Ireland; and am come here
to collect all the knowledge I possibly can. He gave me a description
of the state and condition of the hospitals in Paris; and told me where
I could obtain the publications I wanted, which are entirely new, and
had not reached London. He also advised me to view the hospitals, and
to go to Cherenton and see the anatomical productions there, which he
said exceeded every thing of the kind in the world.
He visited me three times, and brought a French physician to see me
once.
I visited M. Iberti once, and he gave me a book he had published,
entitled, _Observations Generales sur les Hopitauz; suivies d'un
Projeett d'Hospital_. In consequence of which the Royal Academy of Arts
and Sciences at Paris had honoured him with a _medal_, in token that
his works were highly applauded. He also told me that he had the use of
the king's library.
I told him that I would endeavour to make him a present of a New
Dispensatory, if he would let me know where I could send one that would
get to him: he thanked me, and desired I would send one to the Spanish
Ambassador in Great Britain, with whom he said he was well acquainted.
The Spanish physician's advice did me infinite service: I followed his
direction, and obtained what I went after.
Among the many curiosities that I viewed this day was the ground where
the Bastille stood, which had been a horrible place of punishment for
about 400 years. I found this prison almost demolished, though a few
of the dungeons remained: but the people were taking down the arches,
walls, &c. An amazing quantity of stone had been carried from this
disagreeable prison, and piled up in a street that environs the city,
besides those at the _Champ de Mars_.
Before this prison was demolished it was surrounded by a ditch, and had
no entrance to it but by a draw-bridge.
On the 6th of July, 1789, the National Assembly having established a
committee of finances, which consisted of 64 members, and appointed M.
Necker, president; the king afterwards appointed Baron de Breteuil,
president, in the room of M. Necker; and having removed several
other officers, the indignation of the populace was raised, who armed
themselves, and were joined by the French guards. A slight skirmish
ensued in the _Place de Louis XV._ in which two was killed, and two
wounded, which belonged to the Duc de Choiseu's regiment of dragoons.
On the 8th the populace forced the convent of St. Lazare, in which was
found a quantity of corn, arms, ammunition, &c. A general consternation
prevailed; the shops were shut, and business was at a stand.