who obliged the Marquis[93] _d'Alegre_, now Marshal of _France_, to
capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of
_Utrecht_, that the _Dutch_ should keep Garison in _Bonn_; but the Elector
_Joseph Clement_, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn
them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own
Territories.
This same Prince, at his Return from _France_, found his capital City in a
sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy'd in the last Siege, were not
yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair
of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old
Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and
built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of
the most considerable Structures in _Germany_, if it had been brought to
Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish'd, has spacious
Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn'd, and nobly furnish'd. The
Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth
seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord's
Nativity; which is wonderfully well designed; and they may be reckon'd
the Master-pieces of the _Gobelins_, where the Elector _Joseph Clement_,
caused them to be made.
The principal Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded
by St. _Helena_, the Mother of the Emperor _Constantine_, to the Honour of
the Holy Martyrs _Cassius Florus_, and _Malusius_, Soldiers of a _Roman_
Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the
Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the
Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Attitude of this Statue is so
very noble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church
of _Rome_.
Tho' the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at _Bonn_, yet
he spends most of his Time at _Bruhl_, a House he caused to be built three
Leagues out of Town; which, tho' not very large, has very fine Apartments,
adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The
Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine
when finish'd.
The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a
League from _Bonn_, near a Village called _Popelsdorff_, which was built
in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the
present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ
the Materials in the Works at _Bruhl_. Near _Popelsdorff_, there's a
Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order.
All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of _Bonn_, which are
moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here,
than at _Cologne_; for _Bonn_ grows every Day finer, while the latter is
decaying.
After having walk'd about here a great deal, expecting the Elector's
Return, this Prince is at length arrived, together with Duke _Ferdinand_
his Brother. He was welcom'd with the Discharge of the Cannon, and
complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return,
and upon his Advancement to the Grand Mastership of the _Teutonic_ Order.
Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress'd in a Lay
Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the
Dress which is most affected by the Electors of _Cologne_, is like that of
the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as
Grand Master of a Military Order.
His Electoral Highness has a just Title to be called _Clement Augustus_;
for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves
Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit
of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an
Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so nobly
descended. He lived in his Infancy at _Gratz_, together with the Princes
his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards,
with Duke _Philip_ his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis _Santini_, a Native
of _Lucca_, a Commandeur of the Order of _Malta_, and a Lieutenant-General
in the Service of _Bavaria_, was appointed for their Governor. Duke
_Philip_ was chose Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_. The Gentleman who
was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count _de Plettenberg_, now
the Elector's Prime Minister, who was then purely attach'd to that Prince,
from the Devotion he always had for the House of _Bavaria_; and Duke
_Philip_ dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those
two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke _Clement-Augustus_ for their Bishop.
This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope's own Hand, at _Rome_; and
afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishoprick. Not long after
this, the Elector of _Cologne_, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be
appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of _Joseph Clement_, _Clement
Augustus_ succeeded him also in the Bishoprick of _Hildesheim_.
After the Death of the Duke of _York_, _Ernest-Augustus_, Duke of
_Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and Bishop of _Osnabruck_, he was chose for
Successor to that Prince's Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand
Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights,
who have Commanderies in that Order.
The Enemies of the House of _Bavaria_ murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of
such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; _What!_ say they,
_one Bishop to hold so many Bishopricks! there are few Instances of the
like in all our Annals; 'tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church_. I
am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so
or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and
even more Benefices; and that 'tis for the Welfare and Interest of the
Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. _Albert_, Cardinal
of _Brandenbourg_, was at the same time Archbishop of _Mentz_ and
_Magdebourg_. The Archduke _Leopold_ held nine great[94] Benefices; but it
was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the
Church. _Francis_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector of _Mentz_, tho' not a
Priest, held five Bishopricks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry
against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector
should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth or Merit to
the Archduke _Leopold_, and to the Prince of _Newbourg_.
Tho' I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the
Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the
contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several
Bishopricks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by
the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them,
separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the
Misfortune of _Germany_ to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being
united under one Head, they are a formidable State.
_But_, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen _was only Bishop of_
Munster, _and yet he made_ Holland _tremble_. This is very true; but they
don't consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of
_Lewis_ XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would
never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But
admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic,
what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of _Europe_, and
particularly of _Germany_, is very much chang'd since his Death. The
Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters
of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the
best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics,
on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions
impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade.
Therefore, I say it again, 'tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the
Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute
their utmost to augment it, in order to furnish Religion and the Church
with an able Protector.
Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious
Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both
Love and Respect. His Prime Minister is _Ferdinand_ Count _de
Plettenberg-Nordkirchen_, whose Family has been of distinguish'd Rank for
a long time in _Westphalia_, and has given several Princes Bishops of
_Paderborn_ and _Munster_. It had formerly only the Title of a Barony, and
M. _de Plettenberg_ is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been
promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy
Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the
Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the
Elector to guarantee the _Pragmatic Sanction_: The Count _de Plettenberg_
is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay Nobleman can be
ambitious of in _Germany_: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor's
Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the
Elector of _Cologne_'s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime
Minister.
Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the
Elector being partly obliged to him for his own[95] Grandeur. 'Twas this
Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose,
first, Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_, and afterwards Bishop of
_Hildesheim_ and _Osnabruck_: He also contributed very much to his being
elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_; for had it not been for his
Representations, the deceased Elector _Joseph Clement_ would, perhaps,
have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he
apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step:
But the Count _de Plettenberg_ dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and
by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the
Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services,
performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject,
could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the
Elector's intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The
Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His
Behaviour is noble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He
has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly assume, who in
their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the
First Minister of a great Prince, at an[96] Age when a Person would scarce
presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour
itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which
only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears
attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without
affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent,
vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o'Clock
every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a
magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there
is that Frugality observed, which is so laudable in those who have
Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to
the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the
Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and
Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in _Germany_, so he
is one of those Noblemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His
Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of
excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of
his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at _Nordkirchen_,
where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the
Count _de Plettenberg_ adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens
to it, which will not easily be match'd in _Germany_. This Minister has an
only Son at the University of _Leyden_, a Youth of great Hopes, who is
already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and
Master of the Horse[97] to the Elector of _Cologne_; and to whom the Count
_de Plettenberg_, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to
follow, and his Example to imitate.
There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The
Baron _de Nothasst_, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the
Elector's Guard. M. _de Walhot de Goudenau_, Marshal of the Court. The
Baron _de Schourss_, and the Marquises _Caponi_ and _Trotti_, the
Elector's Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to
Foreigners. The Baron _de Sparr_, by Birth a _Swede_, whose Father died in
the Service of _France_, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of _Bonn_.
His Electoral Highness has lately sent him to _Rome_, to desire the Holy
Father's Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the _Teutonic_
Order. M. _de Sparr_ was Page to the late Elector of _Bavaria_, in which
Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of
several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his
Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography,
and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the
State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the
Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to
the Elector of _Bavaria_. He proposed to make a Settlement, when God,
whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into
Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a
Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest's Orders. He said his first
Mass in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke _Theodore_ of
_Bavaria_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_ and _Freisingen_, said his. He went a Year
ago to _Rome_, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the
Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every
body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that 'twere to be wished
all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to
God, and the World.
The Elector's Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two
Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron _de Nothasst_ is Commander
in chief of those Troops, which, tho' but a Handful, are sufficient for
the Guard of _Bonn_, _Rhinberck_, and _Keiserswaert_, which were fortified
heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished.
In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of _Cologne_
governs with the Title of Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral
Palace, and is served by the Elector's Officers. During this Time, _Bonn_
is a very melancholy Place. The Nobility and Gentry have their Assemblies
at the House of the Countess _de Fugger_, where there are many more of the
Fair Sex than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a shining Figure.
In such good Company I leave you, and am, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER XLVIII.
_SIR_, _Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732._
I have been up the _Rhine_ from _Bonn_ to _Mentz_, to avoid the
disagreeable Passage over the Mountains of _Wetteravia_. I was not
fatigu'd, but then I was pretty much chagrin'd. I landed at LINTZ, a
little Town in the Electorate of _Cologne_, on the right Side of the
_Rhine_; and there I drank the excellent Wine of _Bleickert_, which is
made near the Village of _Huningen_, about a League from this Town. The
_Liegeois_, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great
Quantity of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for
_Burgundy_. After I had fill'd my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and
arrived at ANDERNACH, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the
Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for
_Holland_. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of
the Mineral Water of _Dunchstein_, which in the Summer is very much drank
with Wine.
A little above _Andernach_, on the other Side of the River, there's an
abandon'd Seat belonging to the Count _de Neuwidt_, who lays up his
Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is
haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superstition that is to be met
with, more or less, in all Countries.
The little Town of NEUWIDT gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where
the Count has a very pretty House. This Nobleman, and his Subjects too,
are[98]Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count _Alexander de
Dhona_, who was the King of _Prussia_'s Governor. She is a Lady highly to
be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour.
The _Rhine_, which runs thro' none but a plain Country from _Neuwidt_ to
_Bonn_, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give
me the frightful Remembrance of the _Alps_. These terrible Rocks are
cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly
take one's Eyes off of them, there's such a variegated Prospect of
Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen's Seats, and Cottages.
The only Town of Consequence is COBLENTZ, in the Electorate of _Triers_,
at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Rhine_, in a fine Valley
surrounded with noble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and
Ramparts. Its two Rivers are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to
them 'tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several
Persons of Quality, such as the Counts _de la Leie_, and _de Metternich_,
the Barons _de Walpol_, and _d'Oels_. The Count _de la Leie_ is a very
rich Nobleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look
upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a
Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is
to the last Degree noble. He has an only Son by the Countess _de
Schonborn_, Sister to the Elector of _Triers_, a young Gentleman of a
lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpasses his Years.
The Fortress of _Ehrenbreitstein_, which is properly the Citadel of
_Coblentz_, stands on the other Side of the _Rhine_. They reckon it
impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is
situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by
itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of
Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which,
they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that _Lewis_ XIV. caused to
be carried from _Nancy_ to _Dunkirk_. The Palace of the Elector of
_Triers_ is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much
pent up by the _Rhine_ on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes
but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very
much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called _Dahl_,
where live most of the Elector's Domestics. This Quarter has a
Communication with the City of _Coblentz_ by a flying Bridge.
The present Bishop of _Triers_ is _Francis-George_ Count _de Schonborn_,
who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of _Spires_, and of the
Bishop of _Ramberg_ and _Wurtzbourg_. He is also Bishop of _Worms_, and
Abbat of _Elwangen_. He was elected Archbishop, when _Francis-Lewis_ of
_Newbourg_ was translated from the Electorate of _Triers_ to that of
_Mentz_. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect:
He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers assured me, that he was a
very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his
Government. His Disbursements seem to me to be very moderate, and his
Houshold not large.
From _Coblentz_ I went to _Sanckewerdt_, which is the Foot of the Castle
of RHINFELDTS, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of _Hesse_.
The Landgrave of _Cassel_ was once in Possession of this Fortress, and
claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family
of _Hesse_. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the
Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of _Rhinfeldts_, and
the Troops of _Hesse Cassel_ were by an Imperial Commission turn'd out. A
Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the
_Upper Rhine_. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the
_Rhine_, over which River here is a Passage by a flying Bridge.
As I still went up the River, I came to _Binger-Loch_, a Name which is
given to a Cascade, that the _Rhine_ forms here between two Rocks. This is
reckoned as the most dangerous Passage of all the _Rhine_, though there's
no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine;
which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the
Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the
midst of the _Rhine_, there's the famous _Rats-Tower_; built, according to
Tradition, by _Hatto_ Bishop of _Mentz_, in the Year 969, to secure him
from the Rats, which gnaw'd him as a Punishment for his having burnt a
considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth
of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous
Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames,
ask'd his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable
soever this Story may seem, 'tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it
were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I
questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of
it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that
this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a
Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in
which 'tis said that Bishop _Hatto_ dwelt, when he was obliged to retire
to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw'd by the Rats.
The little City of BINGEN is not far from thence, on the left Side of the
_Rhine_. 'Tis the most considerable of all the _Rhingau_, and 'tis thought
to produce the best _Rhenish_ Wine; for you are to know, that the Fashion
of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of
_Bacharach_ was most in Vogue, and the _French_ have not disdained to
celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in
request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but
wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine
that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of _Bacharach_ is worth
nothing, in comparison with the Wine of _Ridelsheim_, and of
_Johannesberg_, Vineyards in the _Rhingau_: But for my Part, who have the
Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of _Bacharach_ very good,
and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other.