Society among the Women; and as for the Men, they are generally at the
Tavern, where there are good _Bar_ and _Burgundy_ Wines, and a sort of
Beer still better, neither of which being very dear, the People of _Liege_
go with Joy to the Bottle; but being, at best, Men of warm Brains, great
Talkers, Railers and Backbiters, their Entertainments and Assemblies
commonly end like the _Italian_ Comedies. The _Liegeois_ are accused of
being insincere, and are called, _the_ Italians _of the_ Netherlands. They
drive a great Trade, with as little Honesty as elsewhere. They are
Drunkards, quarrelsome, and so vindictive, that they think any sort of
Revenge sweet. They love Law-suits and Chicanery, to such a Degree, that
the Country of _Liege_ alone furnishes the Chamber of _Wetzlar_ with more
Business than all the Empire. I confess, that of all the People I ever
conversed with, there are none for whom I have less Esteem, and none,
whose Society I shall always more avoid; tho' I shall ever esteem the
honest Folks there, of whom, I am persuaded, there are some: But I enter
not into Particulars, I speak only of the Generality of the _Liegeois_,
who appeared to me such as I have describ'd them; and if I wrong them, I
ask their Pardon. Another Man may conceive what Idea of them he pleases,
and for my own part, I shall be overjoy'd to hear of any Merit found among
them.
The Country of _Liege_ is fruitful, and abounding with all Things, except
Wine and Oil, which they must have from Foreigners. Here are Mines of Iron
and Lead, Quarries of Marble, and a sort of Mineral, which is an Earth
proper to burn, and their common Fuel; but a Fuel very disagreeable,
because of its nasty Smell, which is infinitely worse than the _English_
Coal, and renders _Liege_, in the Winter-time, as black and as sooty as
_London_.
The Bishop is Lord of the whole Country: He has, however, his States, who
are not always of the Prince's Opinion. In this Country are reckon'd fifty
Baronies, a great Number of Abbies, above twenty wall'd Towns, and near
fifteen hundred Villages. This Principality is subject to the Empire.
I reckon to set out hence To-morrow, and to go and lie at _Spa_, where I
hope to be merry. Be you the same, and believe me to be always Yours,
_&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XLVI.
_SIR_, _Cologn, July, 13, 1732._
The Road from _Liege_ to Spa is very disagreeable, and, really, the Place
itself is not worth the Trouble of going to it; I mean, for such as are
not under a Necessity of using the Waters; for I am not willing to embroil
myself with the _English_, who neglect the best Waters in the World, which
they have at _Bath_ and _Tunbridge_, to go to those of the _Spa_. Here are
several Springs, which the Physicians of the Place adjust to all
Distempers. That of _Poubon_, which is in the Middle of the Square of
_Spa_, is good for the Gravel, the Sciatica, and in short, for every
Thing, except the Stomach; but then, on the other hand, this Part of the
human Body may be set to Rights by the Water of the _Geronstere_, which
must be taken every Morning, three Quarters of a League from _Spa_, in a
little Coppice, where a sorry Hovel is built, to shelter the
Water-drinkers from the Rain. But how good soever the _Geronstere_ Spring
is for the Stomach, it is of no manner of Service to the Breast; in which
Case they must go to another Fountain, of which I have forgot the Name.
The Physicians and Inhabitants of _Spa_, good People, consulting their own
Interest more than the Health of the Foreigners, tell them absolutely,
that they must continue to drink the Waters, at least, six Weeks
successively; which Precepts the _English_ follow very readily, and even
go beyond them. I knew a young _Irishman_, who for three Years fansied
himself to be sick, and was continually taking the Waters of the _Spa_. He
would fain have persuaded me, that otherwise he should have died: He
complained of a great Pain in his Kidneys; yet he look'd very well, eat
heartily, slept sound, and danced like one mad. While I was at _Spa_, I
thought myself at _London_, there being ten _Englishmen_ to one Foreigner.
I believe that Nation, in short, has laid a Plot to take away _Spa_ from
the Bishop of _Liege_. I was overjoy'd to renew my Acquaintance there with
Persons of good Families, whom I had known at _London_. Tho' I am
extremely prepossessed in Favour of _England_ and _Englishmen_; yet I
cannot help agreeing with many others, that they are more amiable, and
more sociable Abroad, than they are at Home.
In my Road from _Spa_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, I came to LIMBOURG, the
Capital Town of the Duchy of that Name, and truly, the most dismal Capital
in the World. It stands upon a Mountain, as it were, by itself, and in one
of the most disagreeable Situations that can be imagined. Heretofore it
was fortified, but is now dismantled. There are, however, three hundred
Invalids that keep Guard here, such a one as it is. The whole Country has
a very miserable Appearance; yet I have been assured, that the Inhabitants
are very well to pass. They have good Store of Cattle, make a great deal
of Cheese, and manufacture very good Cloth, for which they have a great
Vend in the _Netherlands_, and at _Frankfort_ Fair; where a great many
Pieces are sold, which pass for the Cloth of _Holland_, and even of
_England_. The Road from _Limbourg_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, which is four
Leagues, is very disagreeable to travel in a Chaise, because of the Rocks
and Mountains.
AIX LA CHAPELLE, which is an Imperial City, owes its Foundation to
_Charlemagne_, who established the Seat of his Empire here; and, they say,
that the Town-house was formerly Part of his Palace. This City is fixed by
the Golden Bull, to be the Place for Crowning the Emperors. _Charlemagne_
caused his Son _Louis the Pious_ to be crowned there, by _Hildebold_,
Archbishop of _Cologne_; since which, there have been thirty-six Emperors
crowned in _Aix_. They who have been crowned elsewhere, have always given
an Instrument to the City of _Aix_, and to the Chapter Royal of the Church
of our Lady, declaring, that this Ceremony, performed elsewhere, shall be
of no Prejudice either to the City, or its Church.
The Annals of _Aix_, among several other miraculous Events, report, That
during the Coronation of _Rodolph_ I. there appeared a great bright Cross
over the Church of our Lady, as a Mark that God approved of the Choice
which the Electors had made of that Prince, according to the Advice given
them by _Albert the Great_, of the _Dominican_ Order, Bishop of
_Ratisbon_, and _Rodolph_'s Confessor. When the Electors were going to
take the Oath of Fidelity to _Rodolph_, according to Custom, the Sceptre
which they were to touch, was not to be found; whereupon _Rodolph_, who
did not think this Ceremony absolutely needless, took a Crucifix from the
Altar: _See_, (said he to the Electors, who stood round _Charlemagne_'s
Chair, in which _Rodolph_ sat) _see the Signal of that by which we and all
the World have been redeemed; we will make use of this, instead of the
Sceptre._ Then kissing the Crucifix very devoutly, it so wrought upon the
Princes and Electors, that without staying for the Sceptre, they took the
Oath, and paid Homage with their Hands crossing each other. I forgot to
tell you, that the Cross which appeared in the Firmament, during this
Transaction, tho' white at first, became red as Blood; which being told to
the Emperor _Rodolph_, he said, _If God gives me Life, I will go beyond
Sea, and there sacrifice my Blood for my Sins, for the Honour of my
Saviour_ Jesus Christ. Probably, this Emperor did not live to perform his
pious Resolution; for History does not say, that he ever went to Sea; but
it mentions, that when this Prince was only the Count _de Hapsbourg_, he
met a Priest in a Field, walking on Foot, and carrying the Viaticum to a
Person that was sick, and that _Rodolph_, such was his Devotion for the
Holy Sacrament of the Altar, alighted from his Horse, and set the Priest
upon it, using this Expression, _That it should never be said, that the
Man who carried the Saviour of the World, should walk on Foot, while he_,
Rodolph, _sate on Horseback_. The Priest, who was wrought upon by the Zeal
of the Prince, and inspired by God, prophesied to him, That he should be
chose Emperor, and that his Posterity should attain to the highest
Honours. The Event has answered the Prediction; for God has so blessed
_Rodolph_'s Family, which now goes by the Name of the House of _Austria_,
that since his Time, the Imperial Sceptre has not departed from it;
_Charles_ VI. being the fifteenth Emperor, besides seven Kings of the
_Romans_, who are descended, without Interruption, from the _Rodolphin_
Line.
The Church of _our Lady_ is very ancient, being consecrated by Pope _Leo_
III. in Presence of the Emperor _Charlemaign_, and as many Bishops
attended at the Ceremony as there are Days in the Year; of whom, no doubt,
a great many were Bishops in Parts beyond the Seas. At this Consecration a
Thing happened very surprising and extraordinary; to which you may give
as much, or as little Credit as you please. 'Tis, that God, in order fully
to answer _Charlemagne_'s Desire to complete the aforesaid Number of
Bishops, of which there wanted two, permitted St. _Monulphus_, and St.
_Gondulphus_, Bishops of _Tongres_, who had been both dead a long time,
and buried in the Church of _St. Servais_, at _Maestricht_, to appear
visibly at the Solemnity of this Coronation, and to receive the Pope's
Blessing; after which they vanish'd. But I think, without pretending to
dive into this Mystery, that if these two Bishops were really Saints, they
ought to have given the Pope their Blessing, as being older Saints than
the Holy Father. Mean time, that there is such a Story, you are not to
doubt; for in the Roof of the Church of _St. Servais_ at _Maestricht_, I
saw a Picture that represents it. There is an Angel holding out a Label in
the Language of _Brabant_, signifying, Monulphus _and_ Gondulphus, _arise,
and go to the Consecration of the Church of_ Aix: And upon their Tomb
there is this _Latin_ Distich, expressing their Departure from thence to
the Church at _Aix la Chapelle_.
_Excitus bâc arcá_ Monulphus, _Aquisque dicato_ Gondulphus _Templo se
reddit uterque Hierarcha._
After such authentick Evidences of so extraordinary a Passage, a Man must
be very incredulous not to believe it. I should never have done, were I to
give you an Account of all the precious Reliques that are in our Lady's
Church, of which you know that the Emperor is by Birth a Canon. The great
Reliques are only shown once every seven Years, when Pilgrims come from
all Parts, and particularly from _Hungary_; but as they are then only
exposed from the Top of a Steeple, the poor Creatures have only the
Satisfaction of seeing them at a very great Distance; and after having
been regaled by the City of _Aix_, most of 'em return Home, without being
able to say what they have seen. The first and most ancient Relique, is
the Shift which the Holy Virgin had on when she was delivered of our Lord.
Whenever these Reliques are exposed, a Priest makes a Proclamation to the
People, what Relique he is going to shew them. The following is the Form
of one of those Proclamations.
At the first RELIQUE.
We shall shew you the Linen, the sacred Raiment, in which the
Holy Virgin +Mary+, Mother of God, was drest the Night of the
Holy Nativity of Our Lord, when she brought forth +Jesus
Christ+, Very God and Very Man. Therefore let us beseech God,
that we may look upon this sacred Relique in such a Manner, that
the Honour and Glory of God may be thereby advanced, and that we
may obtain his Grace, and his sacred Benediction.
The other Proclamations are in the same Taste: But so much for Reliques.
In the Church of _Aix_, there is a very great Treasure, consisting of
Vessels of Gold and Silver gilt, Copes embroider'd with Pearls, and other
sacred Ornaments, which are very rich. There is the Royal Chair, in which
_Charlemaign_ sate in his Tomb three hundred and twenty-five Years. 'Tis
of white Marble, not polished, because it was covered with Plates of Gold;
but what's become of 'em, I know not. 'Tis in this Chair that the King of
the _Romans_ goes and seats himself as soon as he is consecrated; and here
the Electors, and the Chapter of the Church, go and make their first
Obeisance to him, in Quality of King of the _Romans_. The High Altar, and
the Pulpit, are covered with Plates of Gold, adorned with Jewels of a
great Value, especially an Agate of an extraordinary Size; the Whole given
by St. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_, the second Emperor of the _Romans_ of that
Name. Were I to give you all the other Particulars of this Church's
Treasure, my Letter would swell to a Volume.
The Citizens of _Aix_, being in Hopes to have that Congress there, which
was held afterwards at _Soissons_, caused their Town-house to be repaired;
so that 'tis now one of the finest in _Germany_. They also built new
Baths, very proper and commodious, and the Structure makes a handsome
Appearance. _Aix_, take it all together, is a very pretty Town, and
there's very good Company here, even when the Waters are not in Season;
but the noisy Pleasures are not to be expected. The Houses of the Countess
_de Golstein_, and the Baron of _Dobelstein_, are of great Relief. The
last is a Gentleman of Merit, and of a good Family, his Father having been
a General Officer in the Service of _Joseph Clement_, Elector of
_Cologne_; and having served in _France_, the last War, with Reputation.
He honoured me with his Friendship, and I revere his Memory.
Of all the Places where the Waters are used, there's none of more
agreeable Accommodation than _Aix_; the Lodgings and Provisions here being
perfectly good. There's the House of _Bougir_, near the _Fountain_, where
the late King of _Denmark_, the Queen, the Princess, and all their
Retinue, were lodged very conveniently. This House is exceeding well
furnished, and belongs to very genteel People, who, during the Season,
hold Assemblies, and give a Ball, in a Room which is perfectly fine.
From _Aix la Chapelle_, I came in less than a Day to _Cologne_, thro' a
very even Road, and a flat Country all the Way, excepting a Hill that one
ascends going out of _Aix_. I passed thro' JULIERS, the Capital of a Duchy
of that Name, upon the little River _Roer_, which is very subject to
overflow its Banks. Several Authors will have it, that _Julius Cæsar_
caused this City to be built, while others ascribe its Foundation to
_Drusus_. Which of them soever it was, the Town does no Honour to either.
There is not one House in it, that can be called a Structure; and I
thought the Fortifications were very much neglected. The Castle, or
Citadel, which I only saw at a Distance, 'tis to be hoped, is in a better
State. The Elector Palatine keeps a good Garison there, commanded by the
General _Haxhausen_; whose House is, I think, the best in all _Juliers_.
The _Roman_ Catholic is the only Religion exercised in the City, but the
_Lutherans_ and _Calvinists_ have their Chapel on the Glacis of the Place;
and 'tis natural enough to suppose, that ere long they will have Churches
in the Town itself, since nothing stands in the Way but the Life of the
Elector _Palatine_; after whose Death, 'tis hardly supposed that the King
of _Prussia_ will let a Country slip from him, to which he has such just
Pretensions.
COLOGNE is the greatest City in _Germany_, but the saddest in _Europe_.
There's nothing to be heard in it but tolling of Bells, and nothing to be
seen but Priests, Friers and Students; many of whom beg Alms with a Song.
The People of _Cologne_ boast, that _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, was
born there; and that this Princess, in order to give the City signal
Proofs of her Good-will and Generosity, very much augmented its
Circumference, and peopled it with a Colony of Veteran _Romans_. 'Twere to
be wish'd, that this Empress was still living, and that she would take it
into her Head to people _Cologne_ again, where there are really more
Houses than Families. For 'tis a poor Burgher indeed here, who has not a
whole House to himself.
If the Inhabitants of a Town were the more righteous for having a Number
of Churches, those of _Cologne_ would be the greatest Saints upon Earth;
for they have as many Churches and Chapels as there are Days in the Year.
The most considerable is the Metropolitan Church, dedicated to the Apostle
St. _Peter_. If it were finished, it would be one of the greatest and most
magnificent Buildings in _Europe_; but in its present Condition, it does
no very great Honour to the Chapter, which is the most illustrious in
_Germany_; the Canons being all born Princes, or Counts of the Empire, who
must prove their Nobility from sixteen Descents. There are, indeed, some
Canons who are only Doctors; but, properly speaking, they are no more than
the Officers of the Chapter. The Bodies of the three Kings that were
brought to _Cologne_, lie in a Chapel behind the Choir. They came into the
City through a Gate towards the _Rhine_, which was walled up, as soon as
the sacred Reliques had pass'd, that nothing might profane it. The
Effigies of the three Kings are painted over it. The Inhabitants of
_Cologne_ have such a Veneration for these Reliques, that I believe, it
would not be proper so much as to question whether they are genuine, in a
Company of the Burghers.
The Nobility and Gentry at _Cologne_ are as polite as they are elsewhere;
but the Vulgar are extremely clownish. There are very ancient _Patrician_
Families here, who make as plain Proof that they are descended from the
old _Romans_, as the Duke _de Ventadour_ in _France_ does, that he is a
Kin to the Holy Virgin.
The Town is governed by a Senate, and is a Free Imperial City;
nevertheless, the Elector of _Cologne_ holds the Supreme Court of Justice
here, by a sort of Chief Justice, or Lieutenant Criminal, who has no
manner of Dependance on the Magistrates. The principal Offices are shared
among the _Patricians_ or Senators; who keep close at their own Houses,
and shun the Nobility, as do all the _Patricians_ of _Germany_. There are
very few Families of Quality in this City, considering its Bigness. The
Noblemen of the Chapter, are all the good Company to be met with in
_Cologne_, and they are respectful to Foreigners; but the greatest Part of
'em are very little in Town; for as soon as their Residence is expired,
they either go Home, or remove to other Places, where they are
Prebendaries. There are substantial Tradesmen here, who eat well, and
drink still better. They may be merry Blades, for aught I know, but I have
not kept them Company; and you need not be told, that our _Germanic_
Haughtiness will not permit us to demean ourselves to them.
There are a great many other Curiosities to be seen in this City,
particularly the House where the Horses went up of their own Accord into
the Garret, to convince a Man, that his Wife, who was buried the Day
before, was not dead. You will find the Account of it in _Misson's_[91]
Letters. I have been to see the House where the unfortunate Queen _Mary de
Medicis_ lodg'd, while she liv'd here, and where she died in a Condition
so forlorn, as may be a Warning to the World of the Frailty of Human
Grandeur. The ungrateful Cardinal _de Richelieu_, on whom she had heap'd
Riches and Honour, not content with having banish'd her out of the
Kingdom, abandon'd her to the Want of every thing; and while himself liv'd
in the Luxury of the most splendid Fortune, he made the Queen suffer the
Martyrdom of Misery and Sorrow. Cardinal _Mazarin_, his Successor in the
Ministry, retir'd likewise to this Town, while the whole Kingdom of
_France_ was in a Conspiracy against him; but he had the Glory to defeat
it.
I shall say nothing to you of the Revenues of this City, because I have
seen nobody that could give me the least Insight into that Matter. It
maintains some Companies of very sorry Soldiers, who keep Guard at the
Gates, at the Town-house, and very insolently search the Luggage of all
Comers; which is, certainly, of all Inconveniencies the greatest; because
when one is not above two hundred Steps from our Quarters, we are obliged
to unloose our Portmanteaus, which are then search'd, and every thing
turn'd topsy-turvy; after which, one is obliged to be at the Trouble of
putting every thing to rights again, while the very Fellows, that have put
all in Confusion, have also the Impudence to ask for a Spill of Money to
drink. In other Towns, an Officer goes with you to your Quarters, and you
shew him what you have. But the Imperial Cities always affect to differ
from others in certain Particularities, which are generally in direct
Opposition to their own Interest, and constantly so to the Convenience of
the Public.
There are Protestants settled here, who are not the poorest People in the
City. They go to Church at _Mulheim_, a Village in the Country of _Berg_,
about half a League off.
I set out To-morrow for _Bonn_, where the Elector is expected every Hour.
He comes from _Mergendahl_, where he has been elected Grand Master of the
_Teutonic_[92] Order, tho' the Pope thought he had Benefices enough
before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time,
and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him
in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don't think there's any Harm in the
Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of 'em; which is a Thing that
cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my
next, what I think of this Prince's Court. In the mean time, and always, I
am with the most perfect Esteem, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER XLVII.
_SIR_, _Bonn, July 30, 1732._
As I came to BONN, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that
time to walk about. This City stands upon the _Rhine_, five Leagues from
_Cologne_; from whence one travels to it thro' one of the finest Roads in
the World, well-pav'd and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain,
encompassed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very
ancient, that _Florus_ tells us 'twas founded by _Drusus_. The Learned
say, 'tis the _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, mention'd by _Tacitus_. Be
this as it will, _Bonn_ has not the least Monument that favours of the
_Roman_ Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at
all, when the Court is not there. 'Twas heretofore very well fortify'd,
and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by _Frederic_
Elector of _Brandenbourg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_, who besieged it
at the Head of his own Troops, and those of _Munster_ and _Holland_; and
lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all _French_
Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary
manner; for, being just come out of _France_, with a Spirit of Hatred and
Revenge against _Lewis_ XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of _Nantes_, had
forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as
were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every _Frenchman_ that
was a Catholic, being odious to them. _St. Bonnet_, their commanding
Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the
Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice
to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of
it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well 'twas his Due, but
that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great
Esteem. _St. Bonnet_ said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation
to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all
Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure
him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of
Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to
continue always near his Person. _St. Bonnet_, ambitious of Glory, and,
perhaps, hurry'd by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector's
Commands, and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days
after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army.
During this Siege, _Bonn_ was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce
a House was left standing; for the Baron _d'Asfeldt_, who commanded in the
Place for _Lewis_ XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a
Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches.