the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the
_Rhine_, over which there's a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in
the very same Place where _Charlemaign_ caused one to be made of five
hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City,
in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of
_Japhet_, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of _Troy_. Be it as
it will, 'tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in
the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. _Crescent_, who was a
Disciple of St. _Paul_, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a
greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of _Mentz_ is Archbishop, and
Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that
eminent Dignity, is _Philip-Charles_, Baron of _Eltz_; who was chose
unanimously on the Ninth of _June_ last. He was a Capitular of the
Metropolitan Churches of _Mentz_ and _Triers_, Great Chanter of _Mentz_ in
the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of _Triers_, Provost of the
Collegiate Church of _St. Peter_ at _Monstadt_, a Privy Counsellor to the
late Elector of _Mentz_, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic
Council. His Election by the Chapter of _Mentz_ has been applauded by the
whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince's Candour,
and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded _Francis-Lewis_ of _Neubourg_,
whose Predecessor was _Francis-Lotharius_, Count _de Schonborn_, who was
also Bishop of _Bamberg_. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long
time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish'd
it with good Fortifications, and put it into such a Condition, that it
may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The _French_ had
begun to fortify _Mentz_ in 1688; and the Marshal _d'Uxelles_, who then
commanded here for King _Lewis_ XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to
sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke _Charles_ of
_Lorain_, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works,
cast up by the _French_, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others
of Stone erected in their stead.
The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some
fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons _de Dalberg_,
_Ingelheim_ and _Rolling_; but 'tis pity they are not in a better
Situation.
The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing
remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in _Germany_. I remember
to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop _Conrade_, that in his Time
there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned
with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these _Latin_ Words were
engraved;
_Auri sexcentas habet hæc crux aurea libras._
Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can assure
you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely
of Persons of Quality, but they don't admit Princes to it.
The Elector's Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was
answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are
commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World.
That which most deserves a Traveller's View in this City, is the
_Carthusians_-house, one of the finest in _Europe_, as well for its
Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very
neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The
Joiner's Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which
represents the Passages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric
fronts the _Rhine_, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a
Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very spacious, and forms a
perfect Square, with the Cells of the _Carthusians_ round it, each of
which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but
neatly furnished. The _Carthusians_, after the Hours are over which they
devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or
employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and
industrious Occupations.
It may be said, to the Praise of the _Carthusians_ in general, that they
always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women,
and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as
that tho' they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it
any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders.
At the Foot of the _Carthusians_-house, which stands on a very high Hill,
is the Palace and Garden of the _Favorita_, belonging to the Elector.
_Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn_, caused this House to be erected; the
Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call'd a
Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole
are heap'd, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little
Fancy. There's a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions, detach'd from it,
disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there's a Prospect of
the _Rhine_, the _Main_, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the
other Side of those Rivers.
For the rest, 'tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject
to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there's a great Number of
Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony.
The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of
the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of _Mentz_ is
to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the
Waters; such as _Wisbade_, _Schwalbach_ and _Schlangenbadt_. And while
these Waters are in Season, _Mentz_, _Francfort_, _Darmstadt_, and all the
neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken.
I was some Years ago at SCHWALBACH, and was very merry there. 'Tis a
little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from _Mentz_, and belongs to
the Landgrave of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_. The Waters which are drank there, very
much resemble those of _Spa_ in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I
am sure, that if _Schwalbach_ was so happy as to be frequented for the
sake of its Waters, by two or three _English_ Gentlemen of Distinction, it
would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the
Purse from _Spa_. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same
as at _Spa_; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater
Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without
Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and
it's surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of
fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a _German_ Comedy, which
really, I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at
which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes
here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry.
SCHLANGENBADT, which is a League from _Schwalbach_, is a Place that
consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of
_Mentz_, and the other to the Landgrave of _Hesse Darmstadt_. Here they
use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves,
and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they
don't take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant.
This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of _Mentz_, and its
Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be
gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as
I fall down the _Rhine_, I hope in two Days to be at _Cologne_, from
whence I shall proceed thro' _Dusseldorff_ towards _Cleves_. There I hope
to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am,
_&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XLIX.
_SIR_, _Cleves, Sept. 1, 1732._
At my Return to _Cologne_, I went to see the Castle or Palace of BENSBERG,
belonging to the Elector _Palatine_, in the Country of _Berg_, three
Leagues from the _Rhine_, which River I passed over a flying Bridge,
between _Cologne_ and _Duitz_. This House is worth seeing. 'Twas founded
by Order of the Elector _John-William_, who was a Prince in every Thing
magnificent, and sent for the most able Workmen from _Italy_ to build it.
All this great Structure is built of very hard Stone. The Ornaments, such
as the Frises and Architraves, are of a Kind of grey Marble, which they
dig out of neighbouring Quarries. The Apartments are large, very well
decorated, and adorned with the finest Paintings; and they have a Prospect
of a vast Length of Country, which offers a Variety of grand and noble
Scenes to View.
From this House I went to DUSSELDORFF, the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_,
belonging to the Elector _Palatine_. This City stands in the midst of a
fine fruitful Plain, five Leagues from _Cologne_. The _Rhine_ washes its
Walls, and runs at the Town with such Violence, that they have been
obliged to make great Works to break the Current. _Dusseldorff_ is but a
small Place. The late Elector _John-William_, who resided in it, had
undertaken to aggrandize it with an additional Quarter, which they call
the _New-Town_; but that Prince's Death, and the Absence of the Court, put
a Stop to the Buildings. The present Elector is fortifying this Place; but
'tis carried on so slowly, that 'twill take up a great deal of Time to
finish it.
The Elector's Castle or Palace is ancient, and has nothing remarkable, but
a Gallery of Pictures; which Gallery consists of five great Divisions or
Salons, three whereof are much bigger than the other two. The Pictures in
the first Room are all by the Hand of _Rubens_. That of the _Last Day of
Judgment_ is an admirable Piece, and one of the best that was ever done by
that excellent Painter. They say he painted it for the Duke _Wolffgang de
Neubourg_, in Acknowledgment for that Prince's having taken him out of
_Spain_, where _Rubens_ was going to be arrested by the Holy Office. The
Pictures in the second Room are all done by several _Flemish_ Masters, but
most of 'em by _Van Dyck_. The third Room, which is the biggest, contains
Pictures by the most skilful _Italian_ Masters. The fourth is adorned with
the Works of the Chevalier _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter, who died
lately at the _Hague_, having had the Honour to see some of his Pictures
sold for a thousand gold Ducats the Piece. The Elector _John-William_ gave
him a Pension of six thousand Florins, besides paying him two thousand
Florins for each Picture. No _Flemish_ Painter excelled him in Designing,
or had a better Hand at mixing of Colours. His Painting is so fine, and
the Colouring so lively, and so well fansied, that no Enamel is more
beautiful. Among his Works, the Connoisseurs admire _the Life and Passion
of our Saviour_; Diana _in the Bath_, a Piece for which the Elector
_John-William_ paid twenty thousand Florins; and the Picture of
_Mary-Anne_ of _Medicis_, that Elector's Wife, which Princess is
represented with her Court-Ladies in the Habit of the Vestal Virgins. The
fifth and last Room, which is the most magnificent, contains select Pieces
by Masters of the first Rank; as _Raphael_, _Julius Romain_, _Peter di
Cortona_, _Guido_, _Titian_, _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Correggio_,
_Albano_, the _Caracchis_, _Joseph Pin_, _Paul Rubens_, _Van Dyck_,
_Reimbrants_, and many others. But that which no less attracts the Curious
in another Taste, is the Abundance and Variety of other Things that are
distributed up and down the several Rooms; as Figures of Brass, of the
utmost Perfection, copy'd, for most part, from the finest Antiques, placed
upon beautiful Tables of _Florence_; portable Cabinets, adorned with
excellent Miniature, or inlaid Work; and, in short, an infinite Number of
other Things, that are very much to be admired, and render this Gallery
truly magnificent.
Under these Rooms there's another Gallery, full of Statues of Marble and
Plaister, according to the Model of all the celebrated Statues of _Rome_
and _Florence_; the Moulds of which were collected by the Elector
_John-William_, with very great Care and Expence.
In the Market-place opposite to the Palace, is that Elector's Equestrian
Statue, who is represented in Armour on Horseback, with the Electoral
Bonnet on his Head. But this Monument, which is of Brass, is not
answerable to the Cost of it: For the Horse is represented in a walking
Pace, with his Tail dragging nine Inches on the Ground, which makes a very
wretched Figure; tho' 'tis said, that the Man who cast this Statue, took a
Horse which the Elector had for his Model. Possibly he might have a fine
Mane and Tail, but this is what does not appear in Brass. The whole
Monument is erected on a Pedestal of grey Marble, very solid, and even
without any Inscription or Ornaments. Nevertheless, _John-William_ of
_Neubourg_, the Elector _Palatine_, deserved as much as any Prince in the
World, to have his Virtues transmitted to Posterity by some Inscription.
He was magnificent, generous, liberal, a Protector of the Arts and
Sciences: His Court and his Disbursements were like those of a King; his
Good-nature render'd him amiable; he was the Delight of his Courtiers, and
the Darling of his Subjects.
This great Prince lived at a Time when _Germany_ had four other Princes,
who were as great Patrons of the Arts and Sciences as himself; _viz._
_Frederic-Augustus_ King of _Poland_, _Frederic_ King of _Prussia_,
_Antony-Ulric_ Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and _Charles_ Landgrave of
_Hesse Cassel_; of all which Princes, the only one that survives is the
King of[99] _Poland_, the rest having no Life but in History, where they
are sure of Immortality; for, besides the Monuments they have left of
their Grandeur, Men of Learning will not fail to transmit their Glory to
the latest Posterity.
The present Elector _Palatine_ having fixed his Residence at _Manheim_,
there's a Regency at _Dusseldorff_, of which the Count _de Schasberg_ is
the President. The Country of _Berg_, and that of _Juliers_, depending on
it, are governed by States, without whose Consent the Sovereign cannot lay
any Taxes. These Countries bring in a Million of Crowns to the Elector.
All Religions are tolerated here, and every Communion has its particular
Churches; but the Catholics only are admitted to the Civil Employments.
The Reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine Church, and a beautiful
Convent here. There's a Chapel without the _Cologne_ Gate, which is worth
seeing. 'Tis built after the Model of the _Santa Casa_ of _Loretto_, and
adorned with very fine Paintings. 'Twas founded by the Electress, Wife of
_John-William_, to the Honour of the most Holy Virgin.
Tho' the Court is no longer at _Dusseldorff_, yet here is very good
Company, and the Gentry are very sociable and friendly to Foreigners.
There are amiable and deserving Ladies here, particularly Madame _de
Speik_, whose Husband is a Major-General. She would be very fit to adorn a
Court.
I went from _Dusseldorff_ to KEISERSWERDT, formerly a Place of Importance,
which held out a destructive Siege, but is now wholly dismantled. From
thence I proceeded to DUISBOURG, a Town in the Duchy of _Cleves_, at the
Extremity of a Forest, where they catch wild Horses, which are small, but
indefatigable and very serviceable. The City of _Duisbourg_ is only
remarkable for its University. The Country betwixt this Town and _Wesel_,
is all a Plain, and a very gravelly Soil, yet produces every thing that's
good.
After having crossed the Rivers of _Roer_ and _Lippe_ in the Ferry-boats,
I came to WESEL, a strong Place of the Duchy of _Cleves_, belonging to the
King of _Prussia_: 'Tis regularly fortify'd, and has a very good Citadel
towards the _Rhine_. The late King of _Prussia_, _Frederic_ I. was the
first that set about fortifying of _Wesel_; and his Son, King
_Frederic-William_, has caused those Works to be carried on and finished.
M. _Bot_, now a General Officer in _Saxony_, had the Direction of those
Works in the first Place; after which, the Care of them was committed to
M. _Walrave_, a Colonel Engineer. They have both contributed to render
_Wesel_ one of the strongest Places in _Germany_. Nothing in this Town
more particularly deserves a Traveller's Attention, than the _Berlin_
Gate, of which M. _Bot_ drew the Model: I never saw any Thing finer, or
more perfect of the Kind. The Arsenal also is worth seeing, and is
extremely well furnished with all Necessaries, whether of Ordnance or
Ammunition.
In my Way from _Wesel_ to this Town, I came to SANTEN, formerly a famous
City, but now very much decay'd. The Catholic Church is a beautiful
Structure, and has a miraculous Image of the most Holy Virgin, to which
the Natives pay great Devotion.
'Tis five Leagues from _Santen_ to CLEVES, thro' one continued Range
of[100] Walks. The Avenue that leads to _Cleves_ is magnificent. This Town
is small, but very pleasant, and well built. The King's Palace is ancient,
yet it has fine Apartments; and among the rest, a magnificent Hall.
There's nothing surely in Nature, completer and finer than a View of these
Apartments. _Lewis_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Grandson to _Lewis the Great_,
coming with his Army to _Cleves_ in 1702, thought the Situation of the
Place so charming, that he was heard to say, more than once, That he
wish'd _Versailles_ was as well situate.
_Cleves_ is the Seat of the Regency of this Duchy, the President of which
is M. _de Borck_, a Gentleman of Quality and Merit, who acquits himself of
his Office with a great Share of Integrity and Application, is very civil,
and a Gentleman of a fine Presence.
There are several good Families in this City, particularly those of the
Chancellor _de Becker_, a Gentleman of distinguished Merit, who makes very
handsome Entertainments, and lives with great Splendor; and of the
Baroness _de Blaspiel_, a Lady of Birth and Merit. She was Maid of Honour
to the Queen of _Prussia_, who honoured her with her Confidence; and never
was a Favourite more worthy of it; for she always preserved the same
Respect for her Mistress, and the same Regard for all Mankind. The whole
Court of _Berlin_ thought her an Ornament, when it pleased the King to
remove her from Court, by banishing M. _de Blaspiel_, who was one of his
Ministers, to his Estate in this Province, where he died, and having no
Children, left his Wife Heiress of a very considerable Estate. I don't
know but this Lady thinks herself as happy in this Retirement, as she was
at Court: All the Country respects her; and one time, when the King came
hither, his Majesty, together with the Prince Royal, did her the Honour to
come and dine with her, and gave her Tokens of the sincerest Esteem. I was
formerly very well acquainted with Madame _de Blaspiel_ at Court, and had
Opportunity to know the Goodness of her Temper thoroughly, which is what
has induced me to give you a more particular Account of her, than of other
Persons of Distinction in this City, with whom I was not so well
acquainted. Farewel, my dear Friend, I am afraid I shall not see you again
so soon as I expected; but whenever that happens, I shall have a great
many Facts to tell you, which 'tis not always safe to commit to a Letter.
I kiss your Hand, and am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER L.
_SIR_, _Amsterdam, Nov. 29, 1732._
Instead of excusing myself for my late Silence, I confess to you, that had
it not been for the obliging Reproaches you make me upon that Account, I
should not have entertained you with any more of my Travels. Not that I
thought _Holland_ did not deserve your Attention as much as any other
Country in the World, but because, as I found I had nothing new to send
you, I thought it best not to surfeit you with the Repetition of what
others before me have said much better. But as you seem to think these
Arguments not sufficient, I will endeavour to satisfy you in the best
manner I can; and you are a Gentleman of too good Sense to expect more.
From _Cleves_ I went to NIMEGUEN, a Town in the Province of _Guelderland_,
and the Bulwark of the Seven United Provinces, towards the Dominions of
_Prussia_; from which 'tis but two Leagues distant. This Place stands on
the Side of a Hill on the Banks of the _Vahal_, a River which comes out of
the _Rhine_, and falls into the _Maese_, near the Town of _Dort_ or
_Dordrecht_. The _French_, after eight Days Siege, took it in 1672, at the
Time when the Republic seem'd ready to sink under the Weight of their
Arms. Since that Time it has been very much fortify'd; so that 'tis now a
Place of Consequence. This Town is famous for the Peace which was sign'd
here in 1678, between _France_ and the States General; and in the next
Year, between the Emperor, _Spain_, the Princes of _Germany_, and
_France_. It has no remarkable Edifice. From one of its Bastions, which is
much higher than the rest of the Fortifications, there's a Prospect of a
great Tract of Country beyond the _Vahal_; which is one of the finest
Views in the World, and the most agreeable Sight that _Nimeguen_ affords.
After having crossed the _Vahal_ over a flying Bridge, I travelled four or
five Leagues upon a very narrow crooked Dike, which in rainy Weather is
very much broke. It seems as if it was made for the Destruction both of
Coaches and Passengers; for if the Coachman be ever so little aukward, or
the Horses skittish, a Man is in Danger of breaking his Neck, the rather,
because the common Caravans, or Stage-Coaches in _Holland_, are so made,
that a little Matter turns 'em topsy-turvy; so that one would imagine the
Inventor of 'em studied to contrive a Vehicle, the most uneasy, and the
most dangerous, that could be to the Lives of Mankind. Suppose to
yourself, a cursed high Waggon, which you get up to by an Iron Step,
placed between the wheels, which are hardly two Feet from one another. The
Body of the Caravan is covered with Hoops, in Form of a Cradle, spread
over with an Oil-cloth, and so low, that the least Shock jolts one's Head
against the Roof. This infernal Machine, invented, no doubt, for the
Entrance of _Proserpine_ into Hell, instead of a Thill, has a Hook, by
which the Coachman, who is commonly drunk, guides the Horses, by placing
one Foot on it, while be rests the other against the Crupper of one of his
Horses, which almost touch the Caravan. No less than eight People are
stow'd in these horrible Break-necks, which, to compleat the Abomination,
makes such a Rattle as is perfectly stunning to all the Passengers.
'Twas in one of these pretty Stage-Coaches that I came very much jaded to
RHENEN, a little Town on an Arm of the _Rhine_, which has for a long time
been the Residence of the Family of the unfortunate _Frederic_ Elector
_Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_. That Prince caused a House to
be built there, which now belongs to the King of _Great Britain_, as Heir
to the Electress _Sophia_ his Grandmother, the Daughter of the said
_Frederic_, by _Elizabeth_ Princess of _England_; but all the Use which
the King makes of this House, is for the Accommodation of his Equipage in
his Journies to and from _Hanover_.
The Road from _Rhenen_ to _Utrecbt_ is like the Sands of _Libya_; I mean
that which the Caravans take in the rainy Season; for in fine Weather
they go through a Plain, the Soil of which is extremely clayish, and by
consequence, not passable when it has rain'd.
As disagreeable as the Country is, through which I passed, yet there are
several fine Country Houses, of which that belonging to the Earls of
_Athlone_, whose Ancestor was General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, and made a
Peer of _Great Britain_ by King _William_ III. is one of the most
considerable: But it is inferior to ZEIST, a Palace belonging to the Count
of _Nassau_, Son of the late Mons. _d'Odyck_, distinguished in the
Republic for his Birth and Employments, his Ability in Business, and his
Magnificence. This House is, in my Opinion, one of the finest in the Seven
Provinces, and has most of the Air of a Nobleman's Palace. It has fine
Gardens, and stately Avenues. _Lewis_ XIV. resided in it at the Time when
that Monarch, like an impetuous Torrent, came to ravage the Republic. The
Count _de Nassau-Zeist_ had afterwards the Honour to see at the same Place
_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, whose Presence Was undoubtedly more
agreeable to him, because it was accompanied with the Peace, and because
that Prince only drew his Sword for the Defence of the Republic, and its
Allies.
The Country Houses in general, which are situate in the Provinces of
_Utrecht_, _Guelderland_ and _Over-yssel_, have much more the Appearance
of Palaces than those in _Holland_; where Land is so dear, that they can
only make Models of Houses and Gardens; which, if they were executed,
would not want for Magnificence.
The Neighbourhood of _Utrecht_ is charming: A large fine Avenue leads to
the City, at the Entrance of which, on the Left-hand, is the Mall, which
_Lewis_ XIV. so admir'd upon Account of its Walks, that he wish'd he
could transport them to _Versailles_, and ordered his Troops not to cut
down the Trees.