Man, and much respected. He is a _Sweed_, and, like M. _de Zumjungen_, has
gone thro' all the Military Employments from a Dragoon. He is not very
rich, but lives handsomely upon what he has, and always keeps a very good
Table.
The Prince _de Rubempré_ is of the Family of _Merode_, one of the most
distinguished in the _Netherlands_. He is Master of the Horse to the
Archduchess, and Knight of the Golden Fleece, a very courteous Nobleman,
and one of the richest in the _Low Countries_.
The Prince of _Nassau_ is Captain of her most Serene Highness's Band of
Pensioners, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is the younger
Brother of the Prince of _Nassau-Siegen_, who, after the Death of
_William_ III. King of _Great Britain_, assumed the Title of Prince of
_Orange_; which he still goes by in _Spain_, where he is a Pensioner to
the King. The Prince of _Nassau_, of whom I here make mention, was also
formerly in the Service of _Spain_. He married the Sister of the Marquis
_de Nesle_ in _France_, and went some Years ago into the Service of the
Emperor, who made him one of his Lieutenant-Generals. I make no Doubt but
his Birth, and the assiduous Application he gives to the Office which he
holds under the Archduchess, will soon procure him the Honour of the
Golden Fleece.
I shall set out in a few Days to make the Tour of _Flanders_, a Country so
well known, and of which you have heard so often from Officers, who are
continually going and coming to it, that I think, I need not confirm to
you what you know of it already. Therefore, only expect a superficial
Account of it. You shall hear from me by the next Post. Mean time, I have
the Honour to be, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XLV.
_SIR_, _Liege, June 28, 1732._
From _Brussels_ I went to GHENT, the Capital City of the County of
_Flanders_, and a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbishop of _Mechlin_.
The _Scheld_ passes thro' the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided
into several Islands by the _Lys_, and a great Number of Canals. 'Tis very
large in Circumference, insomuch, that 'tis reported, the Emperor
_Charles_ V. us'd to say, _That he could put_ Paris _into his_ Gand[86].
This might be true enough then, but now _Ghent_ might easily be contained
in _Paris_, because, like all the Towns in the _Netherlands_, it is
decay'd, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The
Citizens of _Ghent_ were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most
notable Revolt they ever made, was from _Charles_ V. for which they were
severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their
Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed
through _France_ to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused
twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a
greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away
their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a
Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a
Citadel; by which Means _Ghent_ became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of
its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.
The Fortifications of _Ghent_ consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp,
broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it
very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place:
Nevertheless, I have heard that King _William_ of _England_, used to say,
that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep
_Ghent_ than _Brussels_.
I have done nothing at _Ghent_ but sauntered about the Streets. I have
been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some
of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron
_de Stein_, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of _Portugal_, a
Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle _de
Watteville_, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess,
Governess of the _Netherlands_. She is a Lady worthy to be respected, and
is esteemed by all _Ghent_. What Amusements there are in this Town, I
cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no
Pleasures here but what must be insipid.
I went in the Bark along the Canal from _Ghent_ to _Bruges_, which is the
most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a
good Room, and with Company very happily mix'd. At Noon we had a Dinner
served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at _Brussels_;
where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. 'Tis a Rule in this Bark, for
the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts
pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of
Women on Board; and the _Flemish_ Women are, for most part, good Topers of
the Juice of the Grape.
BRUGES in the County of _Flanders_ stands in a great Plain, three Leagues
from the Sea, upon the Canal of _Reye_; which being divided into several
navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes
to _Ostend_, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to _Bruges_
of four hundred Tons. 'Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho' 'tis
considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at
_Antwerp_, and in _Holland_; notwithstanding which, _Bruges_ is still one
of the biggest and best Cities in _Flanders_. Here are magnificent
Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and
open, with several large Squares, and there's no want of Inhabitants; but
they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. 'Tis a hard matter for
a Foreigner to get acquainted with 'em; for the _Flemings_ are naturally
unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a
_German_. When the Count _de Lalaing_, formerly the Viscount of
_Audenarde_, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of
being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at
_Brussels_. And, as I don't care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately
to OSTEND.
This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three
Months, again _Albert_ Archduke of _Austria_; and for the _India_ Company
established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all _Europe_,
however, agreed to get revoked. _Ostend_ never was a Town of much Note for
Pleasures. 'Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable
that belongs to the Emperor in _Flanders_. Its Situation renders it very
strong: 'Tis encompass'd with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks,
and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due
Repair. If the _Ostend_ Company had continued, this would certainly have
been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every
Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For _Holland_ and
_England_ swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the
_Netherlands_.
NEWPORT, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than _Ostend_.
'Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify'd, and can lay the Country
under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a
Degree, that there's never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one
time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid
unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the
Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to
do with their Time.
As I left _Newport_, I returned to _Ghent_, and went to COURTRAY, over one
of the finest Causeys, with Trees on both Sides, that is in all
_Flanders_. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in
Holland, and damask'd Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its
Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a
Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M.
_de Devenish_, an _Irishman_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals. The
second is M. _Dickson_, a _Scotsman_, who has a Colonel's Commission, and
is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he
is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons
of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to
Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the
Collegiate Church of _St. Mary_ consists of true Priests, who rail at one
another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house,
where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I
dare say, were they to embrace at High Mass, they would hug so lovingly,
as to squeeze the Breath out of one another's Bodies.
I proceeded over a fine Causey to MENIN, one of the Barrier Towns
belonging to the Emperor, with a _Dutch_ Garison. The Count[87]_de Nassau
Laleck_, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the
_Dutch_ Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this
Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier
Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archduchess, to the Emperor,
and also to the States General his Masters. But I can't imagine how he
would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War
should break out between the Emperor and _Holland_. I think this Oath may
be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the
_Bucentaur_ at _Venice_, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring
her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. _Menin_ is one of the
most regular Fortifications in _Flanders_. M. _de Vauban_, by whom they
were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that
the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill
defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there
was no Breach made in it. The _French_ Commandant, when he surrendered it
to the Duke of _Marlborough_, having demanded Leave to march out of the
Breach, was answered, That 'twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless
he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the
Gate. There's no Company at _Menin_, but Mademoiselle _de Laleck_, and
some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit.
LISLE, the Capital of _French Flanders_, is as gay, populous and trading a
City, as the Towns of _Imperial Flanders_ are declining. 'Tis a large,
fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav'd. It
has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which
discover its Riches. There's a new Town-house building here, in a bad
Situation; but when finish'd, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke _de
Bousslers_, whose Father acquir'd great Glory by his vigorous Defence of
_Lisle_, is Governor of this City, and of _French Flanders_. He is a fine
handsome young Nobleman, tho' of an under Size. He applies very much to
the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in
that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body
speak well of him. He makes a noble Appearance, and lives generously. I
found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and
amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too
liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to _France_ would wish all
her young Noblemen were like to him.
There are several good Houses in _Lisle_, particularly that of Madame _de
Mouchi_, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late
Duchess of _Berry_; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the
Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there's abundance
of good Company. The _French_ Officers make a much better Appearance than
ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another
upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In
Winter there are a great many Balls, and a true Relish of good Living
here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions.
You know that _Lewis_ XIV. took _Lisle_ from the _Spaniards_. The Allies
retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the
Number of Princes and great Noblemen who were present at it, such as the
King of _Poland_, the Electoral Prince of _Hanover_, now the King of
_Great Britain_, and the late Landgrave of _Hesse Cassel_, puts one in
Mind of the Siege of _Troy_. _Lisle_ was restored by the Treaty of
_Utrecht_ to _France_, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded _Ypres_
and its Chatellany to the Emperor.
Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there's a Concourse to it
from all _Imperial Flanders_, because of the Profit to be made by the
Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and
embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much
delighted here, and if my Affairs had not call'd me back to _Germany_, I
should have stay'd here some time longer.
I return'd again thro' _Ghent_, and from thence went to _Antwerp_,
surnam'd the _Trading_; for you must know, that all the Towns in the _Low
Countries_ have Surnames: Thus, _Brussels_ is called the _Noble_, _Ghent_
the _Great_, _Louvain_ the _Wise_, _Mechlin_ the _Genteel_, _Namur_ the
_Strong_; and so of the rest.
ANTWERP, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in _Europe_,
stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the _Scheld_. Our
Lady's Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is
worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which 'tis adorned. The
Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller's Attention.
This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening
in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in
Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their
Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by _Rubens_, and two very magnificent
Chapels, are still to be seen.
The Foundation of _Antwerp_, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of
_Alva_, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil
Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them.
_Antwerp_ is very much fallen from what it was once. 'Twas formerly a City
of the greatest Trade in _Europe_; but _Amsterdam_ is risen upon its
Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. _Antwerp_ is
incomparably better situate than _Amsterdam_, and the largest Vessels came
to it heretofore by the _Scheld_; but this River is now choak'd up by
Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the
_Dutch_, those charitable Neighbours of the _Netherlands_.
Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely
rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac'd and
embroider'd Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to
the Assembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at
_Quadrille_, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There's a charming
Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend
there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that
is to be seen out of _Italy_, but no Play. So that, take it all together,
you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment.
The Marquis _de Rubi_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals, is Governor of
_Antwerp_. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his
House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he
appears with Dignity. He is a _Catalan_, and was Viceroy of[88]_Sardinia_,
when the _Spaniards_ made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of
Cardinal _Alberoni_.
This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you of _Antwerp_; from whence I
went to MECHLIN, a pretty Town, where the Metropolitan Church is worth
seeing. The Cardinal _de Bossu_, Brother of the Prince _de Chimay_, is its
Archbishop, and the only one in the _Netherlands_, belonging to the House
of _Austria_. You know, that at _Mechlin_ is held the Sovereign Council or
Parliament, which is the Reason one sees such a Swarm of Attornies and
Solicitors here, and hears so many of the Quirks of the Law. There are
few People of Quality here, and the Assemblies are not very inviting.
The Causey between _Mechlin_ and _Louvain_ is a new Piece of Work. Before
this was cast up, the People of _Mechlin_ were obliged, in the
Winter-time, to go thro' _Brussels_, in order to avoid the bad Roads,
which was a great Way about.
LOUVAIN is a great City, where one sees a vast Number of Students,
Doctors, Priests and Friers. But none of these being Companions for me, I
only pass'd quite thro' the Town; for I had seen the Churches before; and
I was not a Stranger to the turbulent Spirit of the Inhabitants, who are
the most unpolish'd of all the _Netherlands_. One of the grand Privileges
of the University of _Louvain_, is a Nomination to a great Number of
Benefices; about which they are actually at Law with several Bishops of
the _Netherlands_, who pretend to dispute their said Right; on Pretence,
that the University prefers Men to Livings, of whose Persons or Sentiments
they have no Knowledge. Mr. _Strickland_, by Birth an _Englishman_, and
Bishop of _Namur_, is to go on the Part of the Bishops, to get this Affair
determined at _Rome_. But I'll lay a Wager, that he will do nothing more
than see the Datary and the Rota with a round Sum of Money.
There's a very good Pavement from _Louvain_ to _Tirlemont_, which is a
Town in a Manner abandoned, and where I know of nothing remarkable; so
that I brush'd thro' it, and went and lay at MAESTRICHT, one of the best
and strongest Places in _Europe_, belonging to the _Dutch_; to whom
_Spain_ abandoned it by the Peace of _Munster_. The _French_ Army took it
in 1673, in thirteen Days, and the Allies retook it in fifty. The _Dutch_
Propriety in it was recogniz'd by the Peace of _Nimeguen_, and they
maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince _William_
of _Hesse Cassel_, Brother to the King of _Sweden_; but since the Death of
the Landgrave of _Hesse_, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the
said Landgraviate, resides no longer at _Maestricht_; which is a Loss to
this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv'd with all the Dignity
answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during
his Absence, is the Brigadier[89] _d'Amerongen_.
The Walks about _Maestricht_, especially those on the Ramparts, are
charming; for there's no want of good Company, and 'tis the genteelest of
all the Garisons that belong to the _Dutch_. 'Tis a very pretty Town, with
beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well
as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is
remarkable in all the Towns of _Holland_. The _Maese_ passes thro' this
Town, and over it there's a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured
for a Truth, the late Marshal _d'Auverquerque_, when a young Man, leaped
his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle _de Feldtbruck_, how
sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and
Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked
upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did
not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the
Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to
keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade
with him to the Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he
reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his
Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved.
I stay'd a few Days at _Maestricht_, which City put me in Mind of my
Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector _Frederic_ of
_Brandenbourg_. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new
Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion
wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for
him.
The City of LIEGE is about five Leagues from _Maestricht_. A Vessel goes
thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so
rapid as the _Maese_, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is
what I shall never advise any Friend of mine.
The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that _Liege_ was built by
that _Ambiorix_ King of the _Eburons_, a great Enemy of the _Romans_ who
cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of _Cæsar's_
Lieutenants; for which Affront, _Cæsar_ afterwards took a sweet Revenge.
But be this as it will, 'tis certain that _Liege_ is a very ancient City.
'Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley,
encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro'
which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the _Maese_, which passes
thro' the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral,
dedicated to St. _Lambert_, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of
Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are
included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or
_Tressonciers_, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the
Doctor's Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will,
comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of _Germany_.
The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of _Liege_ is ancient. It has large
Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not
airy enough[90]. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of
_Berg_. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector
of _Cologne_, and the Cardinal of _Saxe Zeits_; but he had the good Luck
to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased
with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs
with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of
very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his
Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always
distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a
_Capuchin_ to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father
was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to
their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This _Capuchin_ Minister died without
being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince's Domestics. He is
succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another _Capuchin_; but his
Authority is more limited.
The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at
_Serai_, a Country House a small League from _Liege_, on the Banks of the
_Maese_, towards _Huy_, where he has seldom any body with him but his
Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber.
His Table is not so sumptuous as 'tis elegant; his Liveries are very
modest, his Guards but few, and cloath'd exactly alike. He has rais'd a
Regiment of Guards, of which the Count _de Beaufort_, Brother to the
Governor of _Charleroy_, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the
old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has
been intirely ruin'd and demolish'd, since it was besieg'd and taken by my
Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the
Citadel of _Liege_ shall not be rebuilt.
You know, that the Episcopal See of _Liege_ was formerly at _Tongres_; of
which, they say, that _Maternus_, sent by St. _Peter_, was the first
Bishop. The See was transferr'd by his Successors, first to _Maestricht_,
and then to _Liege_.
There are some magnificent Churches in this City, where those that love
Paintings will be delighted. The Churches in general are beautiful, and
have for most part been repaired within these few Years. St. _Paul's_
Church here would be admir'd, even in _Rome_ itself. Divine Service is
perform'd in it with very great Regularity; and 'tis impossible not to be
edify'd by it, the _Roman_ Ritual being observed in every Particular.