should be held there for accommodating the Differences between the Emperor
and _Spain_. The _French_ made great Boast of this Matter, and vaunted how
much it was to the Honour of the Duke of _Orleans_, that all the Powers of
_Europe_ should send Ambassadors to him, to submit their Fortunes to his
Arbitration. The same Things were said with regard to the Congress of
_Soissons_. _They are come_, said the Court-Flatterers, _into our own
Country, to desire Peace of us_. They were not so modest as the Allies
were heretofore; for when _Lewis_ XIV. sent his Ambassadors to _Aix la
Chapelle_, _Nimeguen_, _Ryswic_, _Gertruydenberg_, _Utrecht_, _Rastadt_,
&c. we did not say, That the King came to beg a Peace of us; whereas the
_French_ always said, _That they gave Peace to Europe_. Be this as it
will, they have no very great Reason to boast of the two last Congresses
that were held in their Country; which tho' both were opened with a World
of Splendor, yet both came to nothing. The Treaty of _Vienna_, concluded
the 19th of _April 1725_. O. S. put a Period to the _Cambray_ Congress;
the Operations of which, during four Years Continuance, amounted to
nothing more than forming fine Rules for the Ceremonial, and the
maintaining of a good Order among the Domestics. The Baron _de Ripperda_,
afterwards created a Duke and Grandee of _Spain_, and also Prime Minister
to their Catholic Majesties, being a Person of great Vivacity, was so
tir'd with the Dilatoriness of the Congress of _Cambray_, that he went to
_Vienna_, with the Name of the Baron _de Puffenberg_, and established so
strict a Friendship betwixt his Master and the Emperor, that the like was
never, perhaps, known before between those two Courts, even when the House
of _Austria_ possessed the Throne of _Spain_. This very much eclipsed the
Glory of the Congress of _Cambray_, and the Congress of _Soissons_
received as great a Check afterwards by the Treaty of _Seville_.
From _Cambray_, I went to Valenciennes, the last Place in _French
Flanders_, and one of the most considerable Towns in that Province. The
Governor of it is the Prince _de Tingry_, who is the Son of the famous
Duke _de Luxembourg_, the Marshal of _France_; whose Honour our Writers
have endeavoured to sully, by accusing him of having held a Correspondence
with the Devil, and of gaining so many Victories over us by that Means.
The Prince _de Tingry_ distinguished himself very much during the last
War, by the Name of the Chevalier _de Luxembourg_. He contributed a great
deal to the Support of _Lisle_ when it was besieged, by throwing a Convoy
of Powder into it in the Night-time. He is look'd upon by all the
Officers, as one of the chief Generals in _France_. Considering his Birth,
Merit, Services, and those of his Father too, he ought to have had the
Marshal's Staff a long time ago; and 'twas thought he would have been
included in the last Promotion, but he happened to be left out[81]. He is
now one of the oldest Lieutenant-Generals. I cannot help mentioning his
Politeness and Civility, having infinite Reason to acknowledge his Favours
to myself.
Mons, the Capital City of _Hainault_, is not so large a City as
_Valenciennes_, but I believe has more Gentry in it; and that, if it had a
_French_ Garison, would have more Parties of Pleasure. The Duke
_d'Aremberg_ is Governor both of this City, and of _Hainault_, of which he
is Hereditary Grand Bailiff; but he resides at _Brussels_, and never comes
into this Province, except to hold an Assembly of the States. This
Nobleman is a Sovereign Prince of the Empire, Lieutenant-General and
Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, Governor of _Hainault_, and of the City of
_Mons_, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and lately a Captain of the
Halbardiers of the Emperor's Guard. He was but in his Cradle when he
received the Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece from King _Charles_
II. after his Father had been killed in _Hungary_. He is the only Nobleman
in all the _Netherlands_, that has recognized the House of _Austria_
alone, for his Sovereign. His Mother, who is the Daughter of the late
Marquis _de Grana_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, prevented him from
engaging with any other Side, and always rejected the Advantages that
were offered to her on the Part of _Philip_ V. After the _Netherlands_
were reduced to the Obedience of their lawful Sovereign, by the Battle of
_Ramillies_, the Duchess _d'Aremberg_ and her Son were the first to
acknowledge King _Charles_ III. The Son had a _Flemish_ Regiment in that
Prince's Service, and was very young when he made his first Campaign under
my Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas under him and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
that he made all his future Campaigns, wherein he always signalized his
Valour, but particularly at the Battle of _Belgrade_. 'Tis certain, that
if the Duke had stay'd longer at _Vienna_, he would have had some
important Employment long ere now. He has all the Qualities necessary for
a good General, and an able Minister, and has every Endowment that renders
a Man amiable. The Emperor values him, and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_
lov'd and esteem'd him: But the Duke seems to have no Inclination to
improve these Advantages, and prefers the tranquil Pleasures of
_Brussels_, to the Tumult of the Court of _Vienna_.
I don't mention the Battle of _Malplaquet_, which was fought in the
Neighbourhood of _Mons_; nor the Siege of that City; which, to be sure,
have been often repeated in your Ears, and what I have already told you of
upon other Occasions.
From _Mons_ to _Brussels_, there's a famous Causey. We pass thro' _Halle_,
whose Church is very much frequented by the Devotees of this Country, and
has a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin, to which the Princes of the
House of _Austria_ have made great Presents.
The City of BRUSSELS is not populous, in Proportion to its Bigness, nor is
the Town itself so pleasant as its Out-parts. The Houses are generally
old, and it may be said, that excepting the Churches, and the Town-house,
there is not a Structure worth the Mention. One very great Inconvenience
of _Brussels_, is its irregular Situation, which is all up-hill and
down-hill; so that if it was as large as _Paris_, it might truly be called
the Hell of Horses: And another very great Nuisance is the little Care
taken of the Streets, where one is always bespatter'd with Dirt, or
choak'd with Dust.
The Palace which was burnt, was an old Edifice, with commodious
Apartments, but irregular. Its Ruins, which are still to be seen, look
like those of the Palace of _Priam_: Why they are not removed, I know not.
The Archduchess, Governess of the _Netherlands_, lives in the Palace of
_Orange_, belonging to the Prince of _Nassau_, the Hereditary Stadtholder
of _Friesland_. She has not much Room there, but her most Serene Highness
prefers it to the Palace of _Egmont_, the Apartments of which are more
spacious and commodious, tho' 'twas offered her by the Duke _d'Aremberg_,
who is the Proprietor of it.
This Princess had like to have perished in the Flames of the Palace, which
was set on Fire by the Indiscretion of the Confectioners, who were
preparing Sweetmeats for a Ball, which the Archduchess intended to give
the next Day. The Fire caught the Sugar, and spread into the
Confectionary. The Officers thought they should be able to suppress it
without any Noise, but it mastered them. 'Twas four Hours, however, before
it alarmed the Palace; and in the mean time, they say, a great Part of the
Building, and of its Furniture, might have been saved, if the Burghers had
been permitted to have given their Assistance: But for fear of Confusion,
and of the Embezzlement of Goods, which generally happens in such
Calamities, the Gates of the Palace were kept shut a long Time, and the
Soldiers pushed off such Burghers as offered to come near, so that the
whole was consumed. The Archduchess was saved, as it were, by a Miracle;
for a little Dog that lay with her, scratching her Face, awaked her, when
she perceived the Smoke, and called out to her Women. At the same Instant,
her Guards broke open the Door, so that she had only time to slip on a
Gown, and one Stocking. The Floor was quite burnt, and fell in, the Moment
that she was gone out of her Chamber. She made a Shift to save her Dog,
and that was all. Her most Serene Highness went instantly to Prayers in
her Chapel; but the Flames spreading to that Sanctuary, she was obliged to
retire to the House of the Prince _de Rubempré_, her Master of the Horse,
whose House fronted her Palace, and which, from thence, she saw consumed
to the Ground, with all its Treasure; but nothing seemed to give her so
much Pain, as the Misfortune of her Domestics, and the Danger to which
they were exposed. But even here the Archduchess could not be safe; for
_Rubempré's_ House was so near her own, that 'twas fear'd the Fire would
have reach'd it; so that she was obliged to retire to the Palace of
_Orange_, then occupied by the Count _de Visconti_, the Grand Master of
her Houshold, and her First Minister. The Princess _de Rubempré_ furnished
her with Stockings, and the Countess _de Visconti_, with Shifts and other
Apparel; and 'twas in these borrowed Cloaths, that a Daughter, descended
from so many Emperors, did, next Day, receive the Compliments of all the
Nobility. Her Wardrobe was quite destroyed, and nothing saved but the
Plate.
Every body agrees, that the Archduchess preserved an extraordinary
Serenity of Mind, under so great a Misfortune. She was continually
encouraging some, and comforting others. The only Thing that heartily
grieved her, was the unhappy Fate of Mademoiselle _d'Uhlefeldt_, Lady of
the Golden Key, whose Mother was one of the Ladies of Honour. This
unfortunate young Lady, thinking her Mother still asleep, was caught by
the Flames as she was running to her Apartment to awake her. She was
snatch'd as soon as possible out of the Flames, but was all over parched
from Head to Foot, and died the next Day, after having received the
Sacraments of the Church, and the Farewels of her Mother; with a Constancy
the more to be admired, because she was very young, very dear to her
Mother, and on the Point of making a very advantageous Settlement. The
whole Court was charm'd, to see with what Resignation she bore her
Misfortune. She said several times, that she died with Pleasure, since God
had saved the Archduchess and her Mother. Her most Serene Highness
honoured her with her Tears, and caused a magnificent Funeral to be
performed for her, in the Church of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits; at
which all the Nobility of _Brussels_ was present, and every Soul was sorry
for the Loss of her.
In searching among the Ruins of the Palace, most of the Archduchess's
Jewels were found again, and only some Ear-pendants of great Value, and a
Gold Toilet, were missing.
The Archduchess is the eldest of the Emperor's three Sisters. She is
jolly, but dances nimbly and gracefully. The Princess has a noble and
majestic Aspect. She appears to be extremely grave, and talks little, but
with Dignity; and she is Mistress of several Languages. When she came into
the _Netherlands_, as she parted thro' _Louvain_, she returned an Answer
in _Latin_, to the Deputies of the University, who harangued her in that
Language. She is Mistress of History, Geography, and many other fine
Sciences; and without flattering her, she may be said to be a Mirror of
Virtue and Piety. 'Tis impossible for any one living to be more
charitable; and she does not know what it is to refuse Access to the
Unfortunate. She wishes it were in her Power to serve all that ask Favour
at her Hands, and is very much perplexed when she is obliged to give a
Denial. That Portion of the Day, which she does not devote to God, she
bestows upon Business, to which she gives very great Application: And her
most Serene Highness is so easy of Access, that 'tis no manner of
Difficulty to obtain an Audience of her.
The same Honours are paid to her here, as are paid to the Emperor at
_Vienna_. She always eats alone, and for most part in Public. Her Ladies
wait on her at Table. She lends a gracious Ear to those that speak to her,
and returns the kindest Answers. She was never known to express the least
Disgust with any of her Domestics.
Her Second in Affairs is the Count _Don Julio Visconti_, by Birth a
_Milanese_, a Person of Honour, and of a good Family, a Man of Integrity
and Sincerity, impossible to be byass'd by any thing but Justice, a good
[OE]conomist, and always disinterested. Tho' the People of this Country
are not the most ready to speak well of their Governors or Superiors, they
all agree, that M. _de Visconti_ is a Minister not to be corrupted. He is
pretty tall, and has a grave stern Countenance. He has such a Weight of
Affairs upon his Hands, that he cannot always give the like Attention to
every thing, but refers many Things to his Secretary, _Henry Crumpipen_ by
Birth a _Westphalian_, who was born with all the Talents for Business. He
is good-natur'd, civil, courteous, ready to do Kindnesses, has an
extraordinary Memory, and is a Man of a singular Application. He is
universally beloved here, and every one allows, that he is as uncorrupt
as his Master.
M. _de Visconti_ is lately appointed Viceroy of _Naples_, and is to be
relieved here by the Count _Frederik de Harrach_; who is not only a Person
of a great Family, but has a very amiable Temper, and the Carriage of a
Person of Quality. He was at _Cambray_ during the Congress, where, tho' he
had not the Character of Ambassador, he was let into all Affairs, the
Emperor's Plenipotentiaries being ordered to communicate every thing to
him. After that, he was sent as a Minister to take care of the Emperor's
Affairs at the Court of _Turin_, From thence he was recalled, and sent
Ambassador from his Imperial Majesty, as King of _Bohemia_, and first
Secular Elector, to the Diet of _Ratisbon_; which Post he is quitting, in
order to come hither, to be Prime Minister to the most Serene Archduchess.
I make no doubt but he will be acceptable to the _Flemings_; for he is
affable and engaging, active, laborious, generous and liberal, and loves
Expence and Pleasures. As he has a Fortune of his own, and another by his
Wife, who is a Princess of _Lichtenstein_, he is in a Condition to please
the People of[82]_Brussels_, who expect their Ministers, _&c._ to lay out
a great deal of Money with 'em; and therefore daily regret the Loss of
_Maximilian Emanuel_ the Elector of _Bavaria_, because that Prince
expended seven or eight Millions with them every Year, which he drew from
_Bavaria_. _The Archduchess_, say the People of _Brussels, spends nothing,
and her Court is rather a Convent_; yet if they considered that this
Princess has but four hundred and sixty, or at most, but five hundred
thousand Florins Revenue, they would, no doubt, be more sparing in their
Reflection. With this Sum, which is a Trifle for so great a Princess, her
most Serene Highness maintains a very large Houshold, pays everybody well,
and keeps out of every body's Debt; which is what can't be said of any
Governor or Sovereign of the _Netherlands_, who always went away from
these Provinces in Debt. The Inhabitants have been accustomed to make
Complaints Time out of Mind, and I believe, if the Question was put to
every single Native of _Brabant_ or _Flanders_, there would be very few
that could tell what sort of Government they would have, and what Master
would suit them best: For, since the Death of _Charles_ II. King of
_Spain_, they have been under four several Dominions, and have had eight
or nine Governors, who have all given them Cause to murmur. The only one
that ever had their Applause, was the Marshal Count _de Daun_, now
Governor of _Milan_, which, perhaps, was as much owing to his succeeding
the Marquis _de Prie_, whose Recal every body desired, as to the
advantageous Alterations he made in the Government.
The Court of _Brussels_ is really not the most inviting Court in the
World. The Ceremonial at _Vienna_ is observed here almost in every thing.
The Archduchess is served like the Empress, and nobody has the Privilege
of eating with her; only the Duke of _Lorain_ was indulg'd that Liberty,
but 'twas at one of the Hunting Seats, and then the Ladies attended him as
they did the Archduchess. When the Elector of _Bavaria_ came hither with
the Princes his Brothers, in their Return from _France_, he said _'Twas
very comical, that he who lay every Night with an_ Archduchess _at_
Munich, _could not have the Pleasure of dining with an_ Archduchess _at_
Brussels.
The Ladies of this Country, who have Titles, of whom there are many whose
Husbands are Grandees of _Spain_, insisted, at first, on the Privilege of
being seated on a Stool in the Presence of her most Serene Highness; but
they were disappointed in their Claim; and notwithstanding they urged,
that the other Governesses of the _Netherlands_ had granted them this
Distinction, they were answered, That those other Governesses were not
Sisters of the Emperor; and that if they were such, they did not keep to
the Ceremonial of the Court of _Vienna_, where all Ladies, Princesses as
well as others, stand in Presence of the Archduchesses. Others claim'd the
Privilege to come to the Palace in a Coach and Six, and some have actually
presumed to drive in with such Equipage: But the Guards, who are better
instructed in the Ceremonial than such Ladies, sent them back again, and
told them, That it was not proper for any but her most Serene Highness, to
come with six Horses. The Ladies turned back, not a little mortified; and
for some time took it in such Dudgeon, that they would not appear at
Court; but when they saw that nobody regarded their Pouting, and were
apprehensive of an Order from _Vienna_, they came to Court again, and now
do as they ought.
The Nobility and Gentry of this Country are extremely haughty. There are
some Families which are really of very great Quality, but a great many,
who, tho' they have very pompous Titles, would be very much at a Loss to
prove their noble Parentage. If you would take their Word for it, they
were all heretofore Counts of _Hainault_, _Flanders_, Dukes of _Brabant_,
_Guelderland_, and so on. Their Ancestors have performed important
Services to the State, but most of them are now retired, or if they serve,
it is in _Spain_ or _France_. _To go to_ Vienna, _to make Court to the
Emperor! oh fy!_ say they, _'tis fatiguing to Death. The Manners of the
Germans are so different_, proceed they, _from ours; their Service is so
unpolite! To be confined in that Place called_ Hungary! _don't mention it
to us. There's not a Mortal to converse with_. These Gentlemen, after all,
have Reason on their Side: For many of 'em, tho' they have never served
the Emperor, and perhaps, never seen him, have been preferred to
Regiments, Governments, and the most distinguished Employments in the
_Netherlands_; and as they have had such good Success, they would be to
blame to act otherwise. They serve in _Spain_, and come to _Brussels_ to
receive their Reward.
It must be owned, nevertheless, that tho' few of the _Flemings_, under
whom I generally include all the Subjects of the _Austrian Netherlands_,
go to _Vienna_, 'tis partly owing to the Narrowness of their Fortunes. The
Nobility, being not rich, are not able to lay out much Money; and they
live therefore with very great [OE]conomy, like private People. They
seldom make Invitations to Dinner, and not one of 'em keeps an open Table.
Yet there are more Equipages here with the Ducal Mantle, than in _Vienna_
itself. All those Dukes and Princes, made by the Kings of _Spain_,
formerly assumed only the Title of _Excellency_; but since they have been
under the _German_ Government, they are called _my Prince_, and
_Monsieur_. They would fain usurp the Title of _Highnesses_, which is
given them by their Domestics, and many poor Gentlemen, who interlard it
with abundance of _Monseigneurs_. The Duke _d'Aremberg_ is the only
Nobleman who supports the Expence of a Man of Quality; and tho' he is the
Person to whom most Honour is due, yet he is one that least requires it.
_Brussels_ is a great Sufferer by the frequent Absence of the Prince of
_la Tour_ and _Taxis_, Hereditary Post-master of the Empire, and the
_Netherlands_. When this Nobleman is at _Brussels_, he lives with very
great Splendor and Magnificence. His House is open to all Men of Quality,
and 'tis the Asylum of Foreigners. The Princess _de la Tour_, who is a
Princess of _Lobkowitz_, is wonderfully civil; and by her noble and
gracious Deportment, and her agreeable Conversation, attracts all persons
of Merit; and all Foreigners are charmed with her[83]. The Natives have a
Regard for the Family of _la Tour_, but 'tis attended with Envy. The
Prince _de la Tour_, tho' not a Sovereign, is nobly ally'd. His Mother was
a _Furstenberg_: His Wife is a _Lobkowitz_: His Son is married to a
Princess of _Brandenbourg-Culmbach_; and his Daughter to the Prince
_Alexander_ of _Wurtemberg_: So that all who question the Antiquity or
Nobility of the Family of _la Tour_, are, I think, very much in the wrong.
I will not dispute that there are Families more ancient, tho' those of _la
Tour_ have printed several Volumes in Folio, to prove the great Antiquity
of their Origin, as well as their Descent from the _Torres_, who were so
long at Variance with the ancient _Viscontis_. And I can't help thinking,
that a Family, which has been ally'd for many Generations with the
greatest in the Empire, and whose Son has been a [84]Canon or Count of the
Cathedral of _Cologn_, may be rank'd among our best Families in _Germany_.
Of all the Ladies, the Princess _de la Tour_ is most distinguished by the
Archduchess; for which the other Ladies envy her, but this is very
natural: For the Princess _de la Tour_ was born at _Vienna_, and, as it
were, brought up with the Archduchess; and Friendships so early contracted
are generally the most lasting. Besides, the Princess _de la Tour_
discovers such an Attachment to the Archduchess, that 'tis not surprising
that she should honour her with her Confidence.
I have told you, that the Pleasures of the Court of _Brussels_ are not
very gay, and I'll assure you those of the City are much of the same dull
Taste. There's a very fine Theatre here, but the Comedy acted on it is
horrible. The Assemblies here are very melancholy, and will be more so
when the Countess _de Visconti_ is gone, since, were it not for that Lady,
there would be no such Pleasures here. Whoever saw _Brussels_ in the Time
of the War, and sees it now, scarce knows the Place again. Every thing
falls to decay, and it has hardly any Trade stirring, but in Lace,
Camblets and Tapestry; the Fabric of which is, indeed, brought to very
great Perfection. _Lenir_'s Manufacture of Tapestry excels all the rest
for the Beauty of its Colours, and he furnishes _England_ and _Italy_ with
it. _Devos_, who works for _Germany_, made the fine Tapestry of Prince
_Eugene_ of _Savoy_, and the History of _Charles_ V. for the Emperor
_Charles_ VI. _Vermillon_ sends a great many of his Works to _Portugal_,
_France_, and _Muscovy_. _Van der Borg_ the Son has lately made a fine
Piece of Tapestry for the Archduchess, representing the _Israelites_
worshipping the Golden Calf, and _Moses_ receiving the Tables of the Law.
The Father of _Van der Borg_, who is as good a Workman as the Son, has
made magnificent Tapestries for the Chamber of the States, which represent
the joyful Entry of _Philip the Fair_, Duke of _Brabant_. They are in the
Town-house, and worth seeing.
Here lives the Marshal _de Zumjungen_, who commands the Emperor's Troops
in this Country. He is a Person of very great Merit, and has been raised
by his Valour and Services to the chief Military Employments[85]. He is
descended of an ancient _Patrician_ Family of _Francfort_, and professes
the _Lutheran_ Religion. He was at first but a common Soldier, and has
gone thro' all the Degrees of Preferment. He is a General of very great
Experience, and is very well beloved by the Officers. He makes Foreigners
very welcome, and lives very handsomely, without being at extraordinary
Expence.