It is to be greatly regretted that in America, as in England, the
process of making diverse savory stews is so little understood. For
not only do such dishes appeal to the most fastidious epicures, but a
thorough and general knowledge of correct stewing would go far toward
solving the problem of providing savory food for everybody.
Too many Americans look on the ability to buy the most expensive cuts
of butcher's meats as the gauge of prosperity, if not respectability.
Now, the difference between these expensive cuts and the cheaper ones
lies much less in their nutritive value than in their texture and
flavor.
Inasmuch as I am preaching throughout this volume that the Flavor is
all-important, this ought to justify the general scramble for the more
expensive cuts, but it does not; for in truth these differences in
Flavor and tenderness can be obliterated by skilful cooking, especially
in the stew pan.
It has been well said that "_the real superiority of a good cook lies
not so much in the preparation of expensive or fancy dishes as in the
attractive preparation of inexpensive dishes for every day and in the
skilful combination of flavors_."
Has not the French chef been praised a thousand times for his alleged
ability to prepare a host of toothsome dishes from thistletops?
The Government at Washington, which so kindly looks after our welfare
in many ways, has not overlooked this matter. In a pamphlet (to which
reference has already been made,) issued as Farmers' Bulletin 391 for
free distribution, and entitled "Economical Use of Meat in the Home,"
two of the Government's experts in nutrition, Dr. C. F. Langworthy
and Caroline L. Hunt, have given forty-three pages of practical
information and advice, which, if generally heeded, would not only go
far toward solving the high-cost-of-food problem, but toward making
us a gastronomic nation. It is a document which cannot be too highly
commended to the attention of all who are interested in cooking and
eating.
The object of the pamphlet is to show that the number of "tasty"
dishes which a good cook can make out of the cheaper cuts of meat
or meat "left over" is almost endless. Directions are given for
developing the natural flavor of meat even in the cheapest cuts and
for further heightening the savors by the judicious use of condiments
and sauces; and these general directions are followed by a number of
special recipes, for making stews with dumplings; meat pies; meat with
macaroni, or beans, or eggs; meat with vinegar, casserole cookery;
pounded or chopped meat, etc.
In conclusion the authors refer to the strange prejudice which some
housekeepers seem to have against economizing in the ways suggested by
them; upon which they comment that surely "the intelligent housekeeper
should take as much pride in setting a good table at a low price as the
manufacturer does in lessening the cost of production in his factory."
The trouble with most cookbooks is that they are so bulky that few
have the patience to wade through them to get at the general remarks
to be found here and there. This Government bulletin is so short, and
yet covers so much ground, that it is likely to do a vast amount of
missionary work in American kitchens.