Apart from the adventitious browned flavors just referred to there
are in broiled, baked, and roast meats usually no combination flavors
except such as come from the butter and salt that are added after the
meat is done.
Two most important details to know are that if the salt is put on meat
before it is broiled, it allows the juices to escape; but that in
frying a steak (which is not a barbarism if properly done) salt added
at once helps to make a delicious gravy.
In the frying of meats or of vegetables (parsnips, carrots, egg plant,
oyster plant, and particularly potatoes) a desirable extra flavor can
also be added by using the fat previously fried out of bacon, ham, or
sausages, or the fat from a pot-roast or the soup kettle.
Endless possibilities for combination Flavors are offered by two of
the cooking processes: boiling and stewing. The first of these has
already been briefly considered under the head of the Philosophy of
Soupmaking.
_Stewing_ is not usually considered one of the most "high-toned" of
cooking processes; yet, if scientifically done--think of a real Irish
stew!--it provides dishes second to none in savoriness--dishes fit
for gods, kings, and epicures. And a man might live a hundred years
and have a new variety of stew every day, so great are the possible
permutations and combinations of vegetables and meats.
More savory results can often be secured by stewing than by any other
process of cooking. It is well-known that the "sweetest" (that is, the
most highly flavored) meat is that near a bone. Moreover, the bone
itself, thoroughly cooked, yields most agreeable flavors of its own.
Now, in making stews, the bony parts (shoulder, neck, end-pieces of
ribs) are used, and the prolonged cooking called for by this process
results in extracting all the sweetness from the bones and the meat
nearest them. Boiling yields similar results, but the savors pass into
the liquid, leaving the meat almost flavorless, whereas in a stew the
flavors enrich the gravy, the vegetables, and the meat alike, in a
particularly appetizing manner.
In ordinary stewing--the method of preparing the French bœuf à la
mode, or the Irish stew--the meat and the vegetables are put into water
and allowed to simmer slowly.
A more elaborate method of stewing is known as braising. In this
process a strong liquor of vegetables and meats is used in place of
water, and it is usually advised that both the vegetables and the meat
be fried in a little fat before being placed in the pot to braise.
This does not seem altogether scientific, because in a stew the object
is not to keep in the juices but to get them out and combine them.
A less objectionable way, which some consider the last refinement
necessary to produce a first rate braise is thus described: "Have
well-fitted to the braise-pot a sunk copper or iron cover, in which
some hot coals or charcoal are placed, in order to transmit downwards
a scorching heat to the top of the portion which is uncovered by the
liquid in the pot below. In this case it is usual to cover the portion,
especially if a fowl, with a piece of white paper, which serves to
shield a delicate morsel from a too fierce heat."[8]