The fog being very thick, and the wind easterly, I now hauled to the

southward; and at ten o’clock the next morning, the fog clearing away,

we saw the continent of America, extending from S. by E. to E. by S.;

and at noon, from S. W. 1/2 S. to E., the nearest part five leagues

distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 69° 32ʹ, and in the

longitude of 195° 48ʹ; and as the main ice was at no great distance from

us, it is evident, that it now covered a part of the sea, which, but a

few days before, had been clear; and that it extended farther to the S.

than where we first fell in with it. It must not be understood that I

supposed any part of this ice which we had seen to be fixed; on the

contrary, I am well assured that the whole was a moveable mass.

Having but little wind, in the afternoon I sent the master in a boat to

try if there was any current; but he found none. I continued to steer in

for the American land, until eight o’clock, in order to get a nearer

view of it, and to look for a harbour, but seeing nothing like one, I

stood again to the N., with a light breeze westerly. At this time the

coast extended from S. W. to E., the nearest part four or five leagues

distant. The southern extreme seemed to form a point, which was named

_Cape Lisburne_. It lies in the latitude of 69° 5ʹ, and in the longitude

of 194° 42ʹ, and appeared to be pretty high land, even down to the sea.

But there may be low land under it, which we might not see, being not

less than ten leagues from it. Every where else, as we advanced

northward, we had found a low coast, from which the land rises to a

middle height. The coast now before us was without snow, except in one

or two places, and had a greenish hue. But we could not perceive any

wood upon it.

On the 22d, the wind was southerly, and the weather mostly foggy, with

some intervals of sunshine. At eight in the evening it fell calm, which

continued till midnight, when we heard the surge of the sea against the

ice, and had several loose pieces about us. A light breeze now sprung up

at N. E., and as the fog was very thick, I steered to the southward, to

clear the ice. At eight o’clock next morning, the fog dispersed, and I

hauled to the westward. For finding that I could not get to the N. near

the coast, on account of the ice, I resolved to try what could be done

at a distance from it; and as the wind seemed to be settled at N., I

thought it a good opportunity.

As we advanced to the W., the water deepened gradually to twenty-eight

fathoms, which was the most we had. With the northerly wind the air was

raw, sharp, and cold; and we had fogs, sunshine, showers of snow and

sleet, by turns. At ten in the morning of the 26th, we fell in with the

ice. At noon it extended from N. W. to E. by N., and appeared to be

thick and compact. At this time, we were, by observation, in the

latitude of 69° 36ʹ, and in the longitude of 184°, so that it now

appeared we had no better prospect of getting to the N. here, than

nearer the shore.

I continued to stand to the westward, till five in the afternoon, when

we were in a manner embayed by the ice, which appeared high and very

close in the N. W. and N. E. quarters, with a great deal of loose ice

about the edge of the main field. At this time we had baffling light

winds, but it soon fixed at S., and increased to a fresh gale, with

showers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and stretched to the eastward;

this being the only direction in which the sea was clear of ice.

At four in the morning of the 27th, we tacked and stood to the W., and

at seven in the evening we were close in with the edge of the ice, which

lay E. N. E. and W. S. W., as far each way as the eye could reach.

Having but little wind, I went with the boats to examine the state of

the ice. I found it consisting of loose pieces of various extent, and so

close together, that I could hardly enter the outer edge with a boat;

and it was as impossible for the ships to enter it, as if it had been so

many rocks. I took particular notice that it was all pure transparent

ice, except the upper surface, which was a little porous. It appeared to

be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea.

For setting aside the improbability, or rather impossibility, of such

huge masses floating out of rivers, in which there is hardly water for a

boat, none of the productions of the land were found incorporated or

fixed in it; which must have unavoidably been the case, had it been

formed in rivers, either great or small. The pieces of ice that formed

the outer edge of the field, were from forty to fifty yards in extent to

four or five; and I judged that the larger pieces reached thirty feet or

more under the surface of the water. It also appeared to me very

improbable, that this ice could have been the production of the

preceding winter alone; I should suppose it rather to have been the

production of a great many winters. Nor was it less improbable,

according to my judgment, that the little that remained of the summer

could destroy the tenth part of what now subsisted of this mass, for the

sun had already exerted upon it the full influence of his rays. Indeed,

I am of opinion that the sun contributes very little toward reducing

these great masses. For although that luminary is a considerable while

above the horizon, it seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a

time, and is not seen for several days in succession. It is the wind, or

rather the waves raised by the wind, that bring down the bulk of these

enormous masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by

undermining and washing away those parts that lie exposed to the surge

of the sea. This was evident, from our observing that the upper surface

of many pieces had been partly washed away, while the base or under part

remained firm for several fathoms round that which appeared above water,

exactly like a shoal round an elevated rock. We measured the depth of

water upon one, and found it to be fifteen feet, so that the ships might

have sailed over it. If I had not measured this depth, I should not have

believed that there was a sufficient weight of ice above the surface, to

have sunk the other so much below it. Thus it may happen, that more ice

is destroyed in one stormy season than is formed in several winters, and

an endless accumulation is prevented. But that there is always a

remaining store, every one who has been upon the spot will conclude, and

none but closet-studying philosophers will dispute.

A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed with the boats,

hastened me aboard rather sooner than I could have wished, with one

sea-horse to each ship. We had killed more, but could not wait to bring

them with us. The number of these animals on all the ice that we had

seen is almost incredible. We spent the night standing off and on,

amongst the drift ice; and at nine o’clock the next morning, the fog

having partly dispersed, boats from each ship were sent for sea-horses.

For, by this time, our people began to relish them, and those we had

procured before were all consumed. At noon, our latitude was 69° 17ʹ,

our longitude 183°; the variation, by the morning azimuths, 25° 56ʹ E.;

and the depth of water twenty-five fathoms. At two o’clock, having got

on board as much marine beef as was thought necessary, and the wind

freshening at S. S. E., we took on board the boats, and stretched to the

S. W.; but not being able to weather the ice upon this tack, or to go

through it, we made a board to the E., till eight o’clock, then resumed

our course to the S. W., and before midnight were obliged to tack again,

on account of the ice. Soon after, the wind shifted to the N. W.,

blowing a stiff gale, and we stretched to the S. W., close hauled.

In the morning of the 29th, we saw the main ice to the northward, and

not long after, land bearing south-west by west. Presently after this,

more land showed itself, bearing west. It showed itself in two hills

like islands, but afterward the whole appeared connected. As we

approached the land, the depth of water decreased very fast; so that at

noon, when we tacked, we had only eight fathoms; being three miles from

the coast, which extended from south, 30° east, to north, 60° west. This

last extreme terminated in a bluff point, being one of the hills above

mentioned.

The weather at this time was very hazy, with drizzling rain; but soon

after, it cleared; especially to the southward, westward, and northward.

This enabled us to have a pretty good view of the coast; which, in every

respect, is like the opposite one of America; that is, low land next the

sea, with elevated land farther back. It was perfectly destitute of

wood, and even snow; but was, probably, covered with a mossy substance,

that gave it a brownish cast. In the low ground lying between the high

land and the sea, was a lake, extending to the south-east, farther than

we could see. As we stood off, the westernmost of the two hills before

mentioned came open off the bluff point, in the direction of north-west.

It had the appearance of being an island; but it might be joined to the

other by low land, though we did not see it. And if so, there is a

two-fold point, with a bay between them. This point, which is steep and

rocky, was named _Cape North_. Its situation is nearly in the latitude

of 68° 56ʹ, and in the longitude of 180° 51ʹ. The coast beyond it must

take a very westerly direction; for we could see no land to the

northward of it, though the horizon was there pretty clear. Being

desirous of seeing more of the coast to the westward, we tacked again,

at two o’clock in the afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape North.

But finding we could not, the wind freshening, a thick fog coming on,

with much snow, and being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, I gave

up the design I had formed of plying to the westward, and stood offshore

again.

The season was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost is

expected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think it consistent

with prudence, to make any farther attempts to find a passage into the

Atlantic this year, in any direction; so little was the prospect of

succeeding. My attention was now directed toward finding out some place

where we might supply ourselves with wood and water; and the object

uppermost in my thoughts was, how I should spend the winter, so as to

make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, at the same

time, be in a condition to return to the north, in farther search of a

passage, the ensuing summer.

CHAP. X.

RETURN FROM CAPE NORTH, ALONG THE COAST OF ASIA.—VIEWS OF THE COUNTRY.—

BURNEY’S ISLAND.—CAPE SERDZE KAMEN, THE NORTHERN LIMIT OF BEERING’S

VOYAGE.—PASS THE EAST CAPE OF ASIA.—DESCRIPTION AND SITUATION OF IT.—

OBSERVATIONS ON MULLER.—THE TSCHUTSKI.—BAY OF ST. LAURENCE.—TWO OTHER

BAYS, AND HABITATIONS OF THE NATIVES.—BEERING’S CAPE TSCHUKOTSKOI.—

BEERING’S POSITION OF THIS COAST ACCURATE.—ISLAND OF ST. LAURENCE.—

PASS TO THE AMERICAN COAST.—CAPE DARBY.—BALD HEAD.—CAPE DENBIGH, ON A

PENINSULA.—BESBOROUGH ISLAND.—WOOD AND WATER PROCURED.—VISITS FROM THE

NATIVES.—THEIR PERSONS AND HABITATIONS.—PRODUCE OF THE COUNTRY.—MARKS

THAT THE PENINSULA HAD FORMERLY BEEN SURROUNDED BY THE SEA.—LIEUTENANT

KING’S REPORT.—NORTON SOUND.—LUNAR OBSERVATIONS THERE.—STÆHLIN’S MAP

PROVED TO BE ERRONEOUS.—PLAN OF FUTURE OPERATIONS.

After having stood off till we got into eighteen fathoms’ water, I bore

up to the eastward, along the coast, which, by this time, it was pretty

certain, could only be the continent of Asia. As the wind blew fresh,

with a very heavy fall of snow, and a thick mist, it was necessary to

proceed with great caution. I therefore brought to for a few hours in

the night.

At day-break, on the 30th, we made sail, and steered such a course as I

thought would bring us in with the land; being in a great measure guided

by the lead; for the weather was as thick as ever, and it snowed

incessantly. At ten, we got sight of the coast, bearing south-west, four

miles distant; and presently after, having shoaled the water to seven

fathoms, we hauled off. At this time, a very low point, or spit, bore

south south-west, four miles distant; to the east of which there

appeared to be a narrow channel, leading into some water that we saw

over the point. Probably, the lake before mentioned communicates here

with the sea.

At noon, the mist dispersing for a short interval, we had a tolerably

good view of the coast, which extended from south-east to north-west by

west. Some parts appeared higher than others; but in general it was very

low, with high land farther up the country. The whole was now covered

with snow, which had lately fallen, quite down to the sea. I continued

to range along the coast, at two leagues’ distance, till ten at night,

when we hauled off; but we resumed our course next morning, soon after

day-break, when we got sight of the coast again, extending from west to

south-east by south. At eight, the eastern part bore south, and proved

to be an island; which at noon bore south-west half south, four or fives

miles distant. It is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling

height, with a steep, rocky coast, situated about three leagues from the

main, in the latitude of 67° 45ʹ, and distinguished in the chart by the

name of _Burney’s Island_.

The inland country hereabout is full of hills; some of which are of a

considerable height. The land was covered with snow, except a few spots

upon the sea-coast, which still continued low, but less so than farther

westward. For the two preceding days, the main height of the mercury in

the thermometer had been very little above the freezing point, and often

below it; so that the water in the vessels upon the deck was frequently

covered with a sheet of ice.

I continued to steer south south-east, nearly in the direction of the

coast, till five in the afternoon, when land was seen bearing south, 50°

east, which we presently found to be a continuation of the coast, and

hauled up for it. Being abreast of the eastern land, at ten at night,

and in doubts of weathering it, we tacked and made a board to the

westward, till past one the next morning, when we stood again to the

east, and found that it was as much as we could do to keep our distance

from the coast, the wind being exceedingly unsettled, varying

continually from north to north-east. At half an hour past eight, the

eastern extreme above mentioned bore south by east, six or seven miles

distant. At the same time, a head-land appeared in sight, bearing east

by south, half south; and, soon after, we could trace the whole coast

lying between them, and a small island at some distance from it.

The coast seemed to form several rocky points, connected by a low shore,

without the least appearance of a harbour. At some distance from the

sea, the low land appeared to swell into a number of hills. The highest

of these were covered with snow; and, in other respects, the whole

country seemed naked. At seven in the evening, two points of land, at

some distance beyond the eastern head, opened off it in the direction of

south, 37° east. I was now well assured of what I had believed before,

that this was the country of the Tschutski, or the north-east coast of

Asia; and that thus far Beering proceeded in 1728; that is, to this head

which Muller says is called _Serdze Kamen_, on account of a rock upon

it, shaped like a heart. But I conceive, that Mr. Muller’s knowledge of

the geography of these parts is very imperfect. There are many elevated

rocks upon this cape, and possibly some one or other of them may have

the shape of a heart. It is a pretty lofty promontory, with a steep

rocky cliff facing the sea; and lies in the latitude of 67° 3ʹ, and in

the longitude of 188° 11ʹ. To the eastward of it, the coast is high, and

bold; but to the westward it is low, and trends north north-west, and

north-west by west; which is nearly its direction all the way to Cape

North. The soundings are every where the same at the same distance from

the shore, which is also the case on the opposite shore of America. The

greatest depth we found in ranging along it was twenty-three fathoms.

And, in the night, or in foggy weather, the soundings are no bad guide

in sailing along either of these shores.

At eight o’clock in the morning of the 2d, the most advanced land to the

south-east, bore south, 25° east; and from this point of view had the

appearance of being an island. But the thick snow-showers, which

succeeded one another pretty fast, and settled upon the land, hid great

part of the coast at this time from our sight. Soon after, the sun,

whose face we had not seen for near five days, broke out at the

intervals between the showers; and, in some measure, freed the coast

from the fog, so that we had a sight of it, and found the whole to be

connected. The wind still continued at north, the air was cold, and the

mercury in the thermometer never rose above 35°, and was sometimes as

low as 30°. At noon, the observed latitude was 66° 37ʹ. Cape Serdze

Kamen bore north, 52° west, thirteen leagues distant; the southernmost

point of land in sight south, 41° east; the nearest part of the coast

two leagues distant, and our depth of water twenty-two fathoms.

We had now fair weather and sunshine; and as we ranged along the coast,

at the distance of four miles, we saw several of the inhabitants, and

some of their habitations, which looked like little hillocks of earth.

In the evening we passed the _Eastern Cape_, or the point above

mentioned; from which the coast changes its direction, and trends

south-west. It is the same point of land which we had passed on the 11th

of August. They who believed implicitly in Mr. Stæhlin’s map, then

thought it the east point of his island Alaschka; but we had by this

time satisfied ourselves, that it is no other than the eastern

promontory of Asia; and probably the proper _Tschukotskoi Noss_, though

the promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is farther to the

south-west.

Though Mr. Muller, in his map of the Russian Discoveries, places the

Tschukotskoi Noss nearly in 75° of latitude, and extends it somewhat to

the eastward of this cape, it appears to me, that he had no good

authority for so doing. Indeed his own accounts, or rather

Deshneff’s[81], of the distance between the Noss and the river Anadir

cannot be reconciled with this very northerly position. But as I hope to

visit these parts again, I shall leave the discussion of this point till

then. In the mean time, I must conclude, as Beering did before me, that

this is the most eastern point of Asia. It is a peninsula of

considerable height, joined to the continent by a very low, and, to

appearance, narrow neck of land. It shows a steep rocky cliff next the

sea; and off the very point are some rocks like spires. It is situated

in the latitude of 66° 6ʹ, and in the longitude of 190° 22ʹ; and is

distant from Cape Prince of Wales, on the American coast, thirteen

leagues, in the direction of north, 53° west. The land about this

promontory is composed of hills and valleys. The former terminate at the

sea in steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. The hills

seemed to be naked rocks; but the valleys had a greenish hue, but

destitute of tree or shrub.

After passing the cape, I steered south-west half west, for the northern

point of St. Lawrence Bay, in which we had anchored on the 10th of last

month. We reached it by eight o’clock next morning, and saw some of the

inhabitants at the place where I had seen them before, as well as

several others on the opposite side of the bay. None of them, however,

attempted to come off to us; which seemed a little extraordinary, as the

weather was favourable enough; and those whom we had lately visited had

no reason that I know of to dislike our company. These people must be

the Tschutski; a nation that, at the time Mr. Muller wrote, the Russians

had not been able to conquer. And, from the whole of their conduct with

us, it appears that they have not, as yet, brought them under

subjection; though it is obvious that they must have a trade with the

Russians, either directly, or by means of some neighbouring nation; as

we cannot otherwise account for their being in possession of the

spontoons, in particular, of which we took notice.

This Bay of _St. Laurence_[82] is, at least, five leagues broad at the

entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing toward the bottom, where it

appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from the sea-winds, provided

there be sufficient depth of water for ships. I did not wait to examine

it, although I was very desirous of finding an harbour in those parts,

to which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one where wood might

be got, and I knew that none was to be found here. From the south point

of this bay, which lies in the latitude of 65° 30ʹ, the coast trends

west by south, for about nine leagues, and there forms a deep bay, or

river; or else the land there is so low that we could not see it.

At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, we saw what was

first taken for a rock; but it proved to be a dead whale, which some

natives of the Asiatic coast had killed, and were towing ashore. They

seemed to conceal themselves behind the fish, to avoid being seen by us.

This was unnecessary; for we pursued our course without taking any

notice of them.

At day-break on the 4th, I hauled to the north-west, in order to get a

nearer view of the inlet seen the preceding day; but the wind soon after

veering to that direction, I gave up the design; and, steering to the

southward along the coast, passed two bays, each about two leagues deep.

The northernmost lies before a hill, which is remarkable by being

rounder than any other upon the coast. And there is an island lying

before the other. It may be doubted, whether there be a sufficient depth

for ships in either of these bays, as we always met with shoal water,

when we edged in for the shore. The country here is exceedingly hilly

and naked. In several places on the low ground, next the sea, were the

dwellings of the natives; and near all of them were erected stages of

bones, such as before described. These may be seen at a great distance,

on account of their whiteness.

At noon the latitude was 64° 38ʹ, and the longitude 188° 15ʹ; the

southernmost point of the main in sight bore south 48° W.; and the

nearest shore about three or four leagues distant. By this time, the

wind had veered again to the north, and blew a gentle breeze. The

weather was clear, and the air cold. I did not follow the direction of

the coast, as I found that it took a westerly direction toward the Gulf

of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but steered to the

southward, in order to get a sight of the Island of St. Laurence,

discovered by Beering; which accordingly showed itself, and at eight

o’clock in the evening, it bore south 20° E.; by estimation, eleven

leagues distant. At the same time, the southernmost point of the main

land bore south 83° W., distant twelve leagues. I take this point to be

the point which Beering calls the east point of Suchotski, or _Cape

Tschukotskoi_; a name which he gave it, and with propriety, because it

was from this part of the coast that the natives came off to him, who

called themselves of the nation of the Tschutski. I make its latitude to

be 64° 13ʹ, and its longitude 186° 36ʹ.

In justice to the memory of Beering, I must say, that he has delineated

the coast very well, and fixed the latitude and longitude of the points

better than could be expected from the methods he had to go by. This

judgment is not formed from Mr. Muller’s account of the voyage, or the

chart prefixed to his book; but from Dr. Campbell’s account of it in his

edition of Harris’s Collection[83], and a map thereto annexed, which is

both more circumstantial and accurate than that of Mr. Muller.

The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coast of Asia, the

more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr. Stæhlin’s map of the New Northern

Archipelago with my observations; and I had no way to account for the

great difference, but by supposing, that I had mistaken some part of

what he calls the Island of Alaschka for the American continent, and had

missed the channel that separates them. Admitting even this, there would

still have been a considerable difference. It was with me a matter of

some consequence to clear up this point the present season, that I might

have but one object in view the next. And, as these northern isles are

represented by him as abounding with wood, I was in hopes, if I should

find them, of getting a supply of that article, which we now began to be

in great want of on board.

With these views, I steered over for the American coast; and, at five in

the afternoon, the next day, saw land bearing three quarters east, which

we took to be Anderson’s Island, or some other land near it, and

therefore did not wait to examine it. On the 6th, at four in the

morning, we got sight of the American coast near Sledge Island; and at

six the same evening, this island bore north, 6° E.; ten leagues

distant; and the easternmost land in sight N. 49° E. If any part of what

I had supposed to be American coast could possibly be the island of

Alaschka, it was that now before us; and in that case, I must have

missed the channel between it and the main, by steering to the west,

instead of the east, after we first fell in with it. I was not,

therefore, at a loss where to go, in order to clear up these doubts.

At eight in the evening of the 7th, we had got close in with the land,

Sledge Island bearing N. 85° W., eight or nine leagues distant; and the

eastern part of the coast N. 70° E., with high land in the direction of

east by north, seemingly at a great distance beyond the point. At this

time we saw a light ashore; and two canoes, filled with people, coming

off toward us. I brought to, that they might have time to come up. But

it was to no purpose; for, resisting all the signs of friendship we

could exhibit, they kept at the distance of a quarter of a mile; so that

we left them, and pursued our course along the coast.

At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water shoal pretty fast,

we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where we lay until day-light, and then

resumed our course along the coast, which we found to trend east, and

east half south. At seven in the evening, we were abreast of a point,

lying in the latitude of 64° 21ʹ, and in the longitude of 197°; beyond

which the coast takes a more northerly direction. At eight, this point,

which obtained the name of _Cape Darby_, bore S. 62° W.; the

northernmost land in sight, N. 32° E.; and the nearest shore three miles

distant. In this situation, we anchored in thirteen fathoms’ water, over

a muddy bottom.

Next morning, at day-break, we weighed and sailed along the coast. Two

islands, as we supposed them to be, were at this time seen; the one

bearing S. 70° E., and the other E. Soon after, we found ourselves upon

a coast covered with wood; an agreeable sight, to which, of late, we had

not been accustomed. As we advanced to the north, we raised land in the

direction of north-east half north; which proved to be a continuation of

the coast we were upon. We also saw high land over the islands,

seemingly at a good distance beyond them. This was thought to be the

continent, and the other land the island of Alaschka. But it was already

doubtful, whether we should find a passage between them, for the water

shoaled insensibly as we advanced farther to the north. In this

situation, two boats were sent to sound before the ships; and I ordered

the Discovery to lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel, between the

coast on our larboard, and the northernmost island on our starboard.

Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon; when, having passed the

island, we had not more than three fathoms and an half of water; and the

Resolution, at one time, brought the mud up from the bottom. More water

was not to be found in any part of the channel; for, with the ships and

boats, we had tried it from side to side.

I therefore thought it high time to return; especially as the wind was

in such a quarter, that we must ply back. But what I dreaded most was

the wind increasing, and raising the sea into waves, so as to put the

ships in danger of striking. At this time, a head-land on the west

shore, which is distinguished by the name of _Bald Head_, bore north by

west, one league distant. The coast beyond it extended as far north-east

by north, where it seemed to end in a point; behind which the coast of

the high land, seen over the islands, stretched itself; and some thought

they could trace where it joined. On the west side of Bald Head, the

shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we saw a

number of huts or habitations of the natives.

Having continued to ply back all night, by day-break the next morning we

had got into six fathoms’ water. At nine o’clock, being about a league

from the west shore, I took two boats, and landed, attended by Mr. King,

to seek wood and water. We landed where the coast projects out into a

bluff head, composed of perpendicular _strata_ of a rock of a dark blue

colour, mixed with quartz and glimmer. There joins to the beach a narrow

border of land, now covered with long grass, and where we met with some

_angelica_. Beyond this, the ground rises abruptly. At the top of this

elevation, we found a heath, abounding with a variety of berries; and

further on, the country was level, and thinly covered with small spruce

trees; and birch and willows no bigger than broom stuff. We observed

tracks of deer and foxes on the beach; on which also lay a great

quantity of drift-wood; and there was no want of fresh water. I returned

on board, with an intention to bring the ships to an anchor here; but

the wind then veering to north-east, which blew rather on this shore, I

stretched over to the opposite one, in the expectation of finding wood

there also, and anchored at eight o’clock in the evening, under the

south end of the northernmost island; so we then supposed it to be; but,

next morning, we found it to be a peninsula, united to the continent by

a low neck of land, on each side of which the coast forms a bay. We

plied into the southernmost, and about noon anchored in five fathoms’

water, over a bottom of mud; the point of the peninsula, which obtained

the name of _Cape Denbigh_, bearing N. 68° W., three miles distant.

Several people were seen upon the peninsula; and one man came off in a

small canoe. I gave him a knife and a few beads, with which he seemed

well pleased. Having made signs to him to bring us something to eat, he

immediately left us, and paddled toward the shore. But meeting another

man coming off, who happened to have two dried salmon, he got them from

him; and on returning to the ship, would give them to nobody but me.

Some of our people thought that he asked for me under the name of

_Capitane_; but in this they were probably mistaken. He knew who had

given him the knife and beads, but I do not see how he could know that I

was the captain. Others of the natives, soon after, came off, and

exchanged a few dry fish for such trifles as they could get, or we had

to give them. They were most desirous of knives; and they had no dislike

to tobacco.

After dinner, Lieutenant Gore was sent to the peninsula, to see if wood

and water were there to be got; or rather water, for the whole beach

round the bay seemed to be covered with drift-wood. At the same time a

boat was sent from each ship, to sound round the bay; and at three in

the afternoon, the wind freshening at north-east, we weighed, in order

to work farther in. But it was soon found to be impossible, on account

of the shoals, which extended quite round the bay, to the distance of

two or three miles from the shore; as the officers who had been sent to

sound reported. We therefore kept standing off and on with the ships,

waiting for Mr. Gore, who returned about eight o’clock, with the launch

laden with wood.

He reported that there was but little fresh water, and that wood was

difficult to be got at, by reason of the boats grounding at some

distance from the beach. This being the case, I stood back to the other

shore; and at eight o’clock the next morning, sent all the boats, and a

party of men, with an officer, to get wood from the place where I had

landed two days before. We continued, for a while, to stand on and off

with the ships; but at length came to an anchor in one-fourth less than

five fathoms, half a league from the coast, the south point of which

bore south, 26° W.; and Bald Head north, 60° E., nine leagues distant.

Cape Denbigh bore south, 72° E., twenty-six miles distant; and the

island under the east shore, to the southward of Cape Denbigh, named

_Besborough Island_, south 52° E., fifteen leagues distant.

As this was a very open road, and consequently not a safe station, I

resolved not to wait to complete water, as that would require some time,

but only to supply the ships with wood, and then to go in search of a

more convenient place for the other article. We took off the drift-wood

that lay upon the beach; and as the wind blew along shore, the boats

could sail both ways, which enabled us to make great dispatch.

In the afternoon I went ashore, and walked a little into the country;

which, where there was no wood, was covered with heath and other plants,

some of which produce berries in abundance. All the berries were ripe;

the hurtle-berries too much so; and hardly a single plant was in flower.

The underwood, such as birch, willows, and alders, rendered it very

troublesome walking among the trees, which were all spruce, and none of

them above six or eight inches in diameter. But we found some lying upon

the beach, more than twice this size. All the drift-wood in these

northern parts was fir. I saw not a stick of any other sort.

Next day a family of the natives came near to the place where we were

taking off wood. I know not how many there were at first; but I saw only

the husband, the wife, and their child; and a fourth person, who bore

the human shape, and that was all, for he was the most deformed cripple

I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was almost blind; and neither

he nor his wife were such good-looking people as we had sometimes seen

amongst the natives of this coast. The under-lips of both were bored;

and they had in their possession some such glass beads as I had met with

before amongst their neighbours. But iron was their beloved article; for

four knives, which we had made out of an old iron hoop, I got from them

near four hundred pounds’ weight of fish, which they had caught on this

or the preceding day. Some were trout, and the rest were, in size and

taste, somewhat between a mullet and a herring. I gave the child, who

was a girl, a few beads; on which the mother burst into tears, then the

father, then the cripple, and at last, to complete the concert, the girl

herself. But this music continued not long.[84] Before night we had got

the ships amply supplied with wood, and had carried on board about

twelve tons of water to each.

On the 14th, a party of men were sent on shore to cut brooms, which we

were in want of, and the branches of spruce trees for brewing beer.

Toward noon every body was taken on board; for the wind freshening, had

raised such a surf on the beach, that the boats could not continue to

land without great difficulty. Some doubts being still entertained

whether the coast we were now upon belonged to an island, or the

American continent; and the shallowness of the water putting it out of

our power to determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King, with

two boats under his command, to make such searches as might leave no

room for a variety of opinions on the subject[85]. Next day the ships

removed over to the bay, which is on the south-east side of Cape

Denbigh, where we anchored in the afternoon. Soon after, a few of the

natives came off in their small canoes, and bartered some dried salmon

for such trifles as our people had to give them.

At day-break, on the 16th, nine men, each in his canoe, paid us a visit.

They approached the ship with some caution; and evidently came with no

other view than to gratify their curiosity. They drew up abreast of each

other, under our stern, and gave us a song; while one of their number

beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a thousand antic motions with

his hands and body. There was, however, nothing savage, either in the

song or in the gestures, that accompanied it. None of us could perceive

any difference between these people, either as to their size or

features, and those whom we had met with on every other part of the

coast, King George’s Sound excepted. Their clothing, which consisted

principally of deer skins, was made after the same fashion; and they

observed the custom of boring their under lips, and fixing ornaments to

them.

The dwellings of these people were seated close to the beach. They

consist simply of a sloping roof, without any side-walls, composed of

logs, and covered with grass and earth. The floor is also laid with

logs; the entrance is at one end; the fire-place just within it; and a

small hole is made near the door to let out the smoke.

After breakfast a party of men were sent to the peninsula for brooms and

spruce. At the same time half the remainder of the people in each ship

had leave to go and pick berries. These returned on board at noon, when

the other half went on the same errand. The berries to be got here were

wild currant-berries, hurtle-berries, partridge-berries, and

heath-berries. I also went ashore myself, and walked over part of the

peninsula. In several places there was very good grass; and I hardly saw

a spot on which some vegetable was not growing. The low land which

connects this peninsula with the continent, is full of narrow creeks,

and abounds with ponds of water, some of which were already frozen over.

There were a great many geese and bustards, but so shy that it was not

possible to get within musket-shot of them. We also met with some

snipes; and on the high ground were partridges of two sorts. Where there

was any wood, musquitoes were in plenty. Some of the officers, who

travelled farther than I did, met with a few of the natives of both

sexes, who treated them with civility.

It appeared to me that this peninsula must have been an island in remote

times; for there were marks of the sea having flowed over the isthmus.

And, even now, it appeared to be kept out by a bank of sand, stones, and

wood, thrown up by the waves. By this bank it was evident that the land

was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was easy to trace its gradual

formation.

About seven in the evening, Mr. King returned from his expedition, and

reported that he proceeded with the boats about three or four leagues

farther than the ships had been able to go; that he then landed on the

west side; that, from the heights, he could see the two coasts join, and

the inlet to terminate in a small river or creek, before which were

banks of sand or mud, and every where shoal water. The land too was low

and swampy for some distance to the northward; then it swelled into

hills, and the complete junction of those on each side of the inlet was

easily traced.

From the elevated spot on which Mr. King surveyed the sound, he could

distinguish many extensive valleys, with rivers running through them,

well wooded, and bounded by hills of a gentle ascent and moderate

height. One of these rivers to the north-west appeared to be

considerable; and, from its direction, he was inclined to think that it

emptied itself into the sea at the head of the bay. Some of his people,

who penetrated beyond this into the country, found the trees larger, the

farther they advanced.

In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton[86], Speaker of the House of Commons,

and Mr. King’s near relation, I named this inlet _Norton’s Sound_. It

extends to the northward as far as latitude of 64° 55ʹ. The bay, in

which we were now at anchor, lies on the south-east side of it, and is

called by the natives _Chacktoole_. It is but an indifferent station,

being exposed to the south and south-west winds. Nor is there a harbour

in all this sound. But we were so fortunate as to have the wind from the

north and north-east all the time, with remarkable fine weather. This

gave us an opportunity to make no less than seventy-seven sets of lunar

observations, between the 6th and 17th inclusive. The mean result of

these made the longitude of the anchoring-place, on the west side of the

sound, to be

197° 13ʹ

Latitude 64 31

Variation of the 25 45 east.

compass

Dip of the needle 76 25

Of the tides it was observed, that the night-flood rose about two or

three feet, and that the day-flood was hardly perceivable.

Having now fully satisfied myself that Mr. Stæhlin’s map must be

erroneous; and, having restored the American continent to that space

which he had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka, it was high

time to think of leaving these northern regions, and to retire to some

place during the winter, where I might procure refreshments for my

people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the harbour

of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, did not appear likely to

furnish either the one or the other, for so large a number of men. I

had, besides, other reasons for not repairing thither at this time. The

first, and on which all the others depended, was the great dislike I had

to lie inactive for six or seven months; which would have been the

necessary consequence of wintering in any of these northern parts. No

place was so conveniently within our reach, where we could expect to

have our wants supplied, as the Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, I

determined to proceed. But before this could be carried into execution,

a supply of water was necessary. With this view, I resolved to search

the American coast for a harbour, by proceeding along it to the

southward, and thus endeavour to connect the survey of this part of it,

with that lying immediately to the north of Cape Newenham. If I failed

in finding a harbour there, my plan was then to proceed to Samganoodha,

which was fixed upon as our place of rendezvous, in case of separation.

CHAP. XI.

DISCOVERIES AFTER LEAVING NORTON SOUND.—STUART’S ISLAND.—CAPE STEPHENS.—

POINT SHALLOW-WATER.—SHOALS ON THE AMERICAN COAST.—CLERKE’S ISLAND.—

GORE’S ISLAND.—PINNACLE ISLAND.—ARRIVAL AT OONALASHKA.—INTERCOURSE

WITH THE NATIVES AND RUSSIAN TRADERS.—CHARTS OF THE RUSSIAN

DISCOVERIES, COMMUNICATED BY MR. ISMYLOFF.—THEIR ERRORS POINTED OUT.—

SITUATION OF THE ISLANDS VISITED BY THE RUSSIANS.—ACCOUNT OF THEIR

SETTLEMENT AT OONALASHKA.—OF THE NATIVES OF THE ISLAND.—THEIR

PERSONS.—DRESS.—ORNAMENTS.—FOOD.—HOUSES, AND DOMESTIC UTENSILS.—

MANUFACTURES.—MANNER OF PRODUCING FIRE.—CANOES.—FISHING AND HUNTING

IMPLEMENTS.—FISHES AND SEA ANIMALS.—SEA AND WATER FOWLS, AND LAND

BIRDS.—LAND ANIMALS AND VEGETABLES.—MANNER OF BURYING THEIR DEAD.—

RESEMBLANCE OF THE NATIVES ON THIS SIDE OF AMERICA TO THE GREENLANDERS

AND ESQUIMAUX.—TIDES.—OBSERVATIONS FOR DETERMINING THE LONGITUDE OF

OONALASHKA.

Having weighed, on the 17th, in the morning, with a light breeze at

east, we steered to the southward, and attempted to pass within

Besborough Island; but though it lies six or seven miles from the

continent, were prevented by meeting with shoal water. As we had but

little wind all the day, it was dark before we passed the island; and

the night was spent under an easy sail.

We resumed our course, at day-break on the 18th, along the coast. At

noon we had no more than five fathoms’ water. At this time the latitude

was 63° 37ʹ. Besborough Island now bore N. 42° E.; the southernmost land

in sight, which proved also to be an island, S. 66° W.; the passage

between it and the main S. 40° W.; and the nearest land about two miles

distant. I continued to steer for this passage, until the boats, which

were ahead, made the signal for having no more than three fathoms’

water. On this we hauled without the island; and made the signal for the

Resolution’s boat to keep between the ships and the shore.

This island, which obtained the name of _Stuart’s Island_, lies in the

latitude of 63° 35ʹ, and seventeen leagues from Cape Denbigh, in the

direction of S., 27° W. It is six or seven leagues in circuit. Some

parts of it are of a middling height, but in general it is low, with

some rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the continent is,

for the most part, low land; but we saw high land up the country. It

forms a point opposite the island, which was named Cape _Stephens_, and

lies in latitude 63° 33ʹ, and in longitude 197° 41ʹ. Some drift-wood was

seen upon the shores, both of the island and of the continent; but not a

tree was perceived growing upon either. One might anchor, upon occasion,

between the N. E. side of this island and the continent, in the depth of

five fathoms, sheltered from westerly, southerly, and easterly winds.

But this station would be wholly exposed to the northerly winds, the

land, in that direction, being at too great a distance to afford any

security. Before we reached Stuart’s Island, we passed two small

islands, lying between us and the main; and as we ranged along the

coast, several people appeared upon the shore, and, by signs, seemed to

invite us to approach them.

As soon as we were without the island, we steered S. by W., for the

southernmost point of the continent in sight, till eight o’clock in the

evening, when, having shoaled the water from six fathoms to less than

four, I tacked, and stood to the northward, into five fathoms, and then

spent the night lying off and on. At the time we tacked, the

southernmost point of land, the same which is mentioned above, and was

named _Point Shallow Water_, bore S. 1/2 E., seven leagues distant.

We resumed our course to the southward at day-break next morning; but

shoal water obliged us to haul more to the westward. At length we got so

far advanced upon the bank that we could not hold a N. N. W. course,

meeting sometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at

E. N. E., it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coast

upon which we could no longer navigate with any degree of safety. I

therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and gradually deepened the

water to eight fathoms. At the time we hauled the wind, we were at least

twelve leagues from the continent, and nine to the westward of Stuart’s

Island. No land was seen to the southward of Point Shallow-Water, which

I judge to lie in the latitude of 63°. So that between this latitude and

Shoal Ness, in latitude 60°, the coast is entirely unexplored. Probably

it is accessible only to boats or very small vessels; or, at least, if

there be channels for larger vessels, it would require some time to find

them; and I am of opinion that they must be looked for near the coast.

From the mast head, the sea within us appeared to be chequered with

shoals; the water was very much discoloured and muddy, and considerably

fresher than at any of the places where we had lately anchored. From

this I inferred that a considerable river runs into the sea in this

unknown part.

As soon as we got into eight fathoms’ water, I steered to the westward,

and afterward more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th, which,

at noon the next day, bore S. W. by W., ten or eleven leagues distant.

At this time we had a fresh gale at N., with showers of hail and snow at

intervals, and a pretty high sea, so that we got clear of the shoals but

just in time. As I now found that the land before us lay too far to the

westward to be Anderson’s Island, I named it _Clerke’s Island_. It lies

in the latitude of 63° 15ʹ, and in the longitude of 190° 30ʹ. It seemed

to be a pretty large island, in which are four or more hills, all

connected by low ground; so that at a distance it looks like a group of

islands. Near its east part lies a small island, remarkable by having

upon it three elevated rocks. Not only the greater island, but this

small spot was inhabited.

We got up to the northern point of Clerke’s Island about six o’clock,

and having ranged along its coast till dark, brought to during the

night. At day-break, next morning, we stood in again for the coast, and

continued to range along it, in search of a harbour, till noon; when,

seeing no likelihood of succeeding, I left it, and steered S. S. W., for

the land which we had discovered on the 29th of July, having a fresh

gale at N., with showers of sleet and snow. I remarked that as soon as

we opened the channel which separates the two continents, cloudy

weather, with snow showers, immediately commenced, whereas all the time

that we were in Norton Sound, we had, with the same wind, clear weather.

Might not this be occasioned by the mountains to the north of that place

attracting the vapours, and hindering them to proceed any further?

At day-break in the morning of the 23d, the land above mentioned

appeared in sight, bearing S. W., six or seven leagues distant. From

this point of view, it resembled a group of islands, but it proved to be

but one, of thirty miles in extent, in the direction of N. W. and S. E.;

the S. E. end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of. The island is

but narrow, especially at the low necks of land that connect the hills.

I afterward found that it was wholly unknown to the Russians; and

therefore considering it as a discovery of our own, I named it _Gore’s

Island_. It appeared to be barren, and without inhabitants; at least we

saw none; nor did we see so many birds about it as when we first

discovered it. But we saw some sea-otters, an animal which we had not

met with to the north of this latitude. Four leagues from Cape Upright,

in the direction of S., 72° W., lies a small island, whose elevated

summit terminates in several pinnacle rocks. On this account it was

named _Pinnacle Island_. At two in the afternoon, after passing Cape

Upright, I steered S. E. by S., for Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at

N. N. W., being resolved to spend no more time in searching for a

harbour amongst islands, which I now began to suspect had no existence;

at least not in the latitude and longitude where modern map-makers have

thought proper to place them. In the evening of the 24th, the wind

veered to S. W. and S., and increased to a fresh gale.

We continued to stretch to the eastward till eight o’clock in the

morning of the 25th, when, in the latitude of 58° 32ʹ, and in the

longitude of 191° 10ʹ, we tacked and stood to the west; and soon after,

the gale increasing, we were reduced to two courses, and close-reefed

main top-sails. Not long after, the Resolution sprung a leak, under the

starboard buttock, which filled the spirit-room with water, before it

was discovered; and it was so considerable as to keep one pump

constantly employed. We durst not put the ship upon the other tack, for

fear of getting upon the shoals that lie to the north-west of Cape

Newenham; but continued standing to the west till six in the evening of

the 26th, when we wore and stood to the eastward, and then the leak no

longer troubled us. This proved that it was above the water line, which

was no small satisfaction. The gale was now over; but the wind remained

at S. and S. W. for some days longer.

At length, on the 2d of October, at day-break, we saw the island of

Oonalashka, bearing S. E. But as this was to us a new point of view, and

the land was obscured by a thick haze, we were not sure of our situation

till noon, when the observed latitude determined it. As all the harbours

were alike to me, provided they were equally safe and convenient, I

hauled into a bay that lies ten miles to the westward of Samganoodha,

known by the name of _Egoochshac_; but we found very deep water; so that

we were glad to get out again. The natives, many of whom lived here,

visited us at different times, bringing with them dried salmon and other

fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for tobacco. But a few days

before, every ounce of tobacco that was in the ship had been distributed

among them; and the quantity was not half sufficient to answer their

demands. Notwithstanding this, so improvident a creature is an English

sailor, that they were as profuse in making their bargains as if we had

now arrived at a port in Virginia; by which means, in less than

eight-and-forty hours, the value of this article of barter was lowered

above a thousand _per cent_.

At one o’clock in the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored in Samganoodha

Harbour; and the next morning the carpenters of both ships were set to

work to rip off the sheathing of and under the wale, on the starboard

side abaft. Many of the seams were found quite open, so that it was no

wonder that so much water had found its way into the ship. While we lay

here, we cleared the fish and spirit rooms, and the after-hold;

disposing things in such a manner that, in case we should happen to have

any more leaks of the same nature, the water might find its way to the

pumps. And besides this work, and completing our water, we cleared the

fore-hold to the very bottom, and took in a quantity of ballast.

The vegetables which we had met with, when we were here before, were now

mostly in a state of decay; so that we were but little benefited by the

great quantities of berries every where found ashore. In order to avail

ourselves as much as possible of this useful refreshment, one third of

the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them. Considerable

quantities of them were also procured from the natives. If there were

any seeds of the scurvy in either ship, these berries, and the use of

spruce beer, which they had to drink every other day, effectually

eradicated them.

We also got plenty of fish, at first mostly salmon, both fresh and

dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in

high perfection, but there was one sort, which we called hook-nosed,

from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. We drew the seine

several times, at the head of the bay, and caught a good many salmon

trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-four

pounds. The fishery failing, we had recourse to hooks and lines. A boat

was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without eight or ten

halibut, which was more than sufficient to serve all our people; the

halibut were excellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to

salmon. Thus we not only procured a supply of fish for present

consumption, but had some to carry with us to sea. This enabled us to

make considerable saving of our provisions, which was an object of no

small importance.

On the 8th, I received by the hands of an Oonalashka man, named

Derramoushk, a very singular present, considering the place. It was a

rye loaf, or rather a pye made in the form of a loaf, for it inclosed

some salmon, highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like present

for Captain Clerke, and a note for each of us, written in a character

which none of us could read. It was natural to suppose that this present

was from some Russians now in our neighbourhood, and therefore we sent,

by the same hand, to these, our unknown friends, a few bottles of rum,

wine, and porter, which we thought would be as acceptable as any thing

we had beside; and we soon knew that in this we had not been mistaken. I

also sent along with Derramoushk, Corporal Lediard of the marines, an

intelligent man, in order to gain some farther information, with orders,

that if he met with any Russians, he should endeavour to make them

understand that we were English, the friends and allies of their nation.

On the 10th, Lediard returned with three Russian seamen, or furriers,

who, with some others, resided at Egoochshac, where they had a

dwelling-house, some store-houses, and a sloop of about thirty tons

burthen. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel,

another of them wrote a very good hand and understood figures, and they

were all three well behaved, intelligent men, and very ready to give me

all the information I could desire; but for want of an interpreter, we

had some difficulty to understand each other. They appeared to have a

thorough knowledge of the attempts that had been made by their

countrymen to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of the discoveries which

had been made from Kamtschatka, by Beering, Tscherikoff, and

Spangenberg; but they seemed to know no more of Lieutenant Syndo[87], or

Synd, than his name. Nor had they the least idea what part of the world

Mr. Stæhlin’s map referred to, when it was laid before them. When I

pointed out Kamtschatka, and some other known places upon that map, they

asked whether I had seen the islands there laid down, and on my

answering in the negative, one of them put his finger upon a part of

this map where a number of islands was represented, and said, that he

had cruised there for land, but never could find any. I then laid before

them my own chart, and found that they were strangers to every part of

the American coast, except what lies opposite this island. One of these

men said, that he had been with Beering, in his American voyage, but

must then have been very young, for he had not now, at the distance of

thirty-seven years, the appearance of being aged. Never was there

greater respect paid to the memory of any distinguished person, than by

these men to that of Beering. The trade in which they are engaged is

very beneficial, and its being undertaken and extended to the eastward

of Kamtschatka, was the immediate consequence of the second voyage of

that able navigator, whose misfortunes proved to be the source of much

private advantage to individuals, and of public utility to the Russian

nation. And yet, if his distresses had not accidentally carried him to

die in the island which bears his name, and from whence the miserable

remnant of his ship’s crew brought back sufficient specimens of its

valuable furs, probably the Russians never would have undertaken any

future voyages which could lead them to make discoveries in this sea,

toward the coast of America. Indeed, after his time, government seems to

have paid less attention to this, and we owe what discoveries have been

since made, principally to the enterprising spirit of private traders,

encouraged, however, by the superintending care of the court of

Petersburg. The three Russians having remained with me all night,

visited Captain Clerke next morning, and then left us, very well

satisfied with the reception they had met with, promising to return in a

few days, and to bring with them a chart of the islands lying between

Oonalashka and Kamtschatka.

On the 15th, in the evening, while Mr. Webber and I were at a village at

a small distance from Samganoodha, a Russian landed there, who, I found,

was the principal person amongst his countrymen in this and the

neighbouring islands. His name was Erasim Gregorioff Sin Ismyloff. He

arrived in a canoe carrying three persons, attended by twenty or thirty

other canoes, each conducted by one man. I took notice, that the first

thing they did after landing, was to make a small tent for Ismyloff, of

materials which they brought with them; and then they made others for

themselves of their canoes and paddles, which they covered with grass,

so that the people of the village were at no trouble to find them

lodging. Ismyloff having invited us into his tent, set before us some

dried salmon and berries, which, I was satisfied, was the best cheer he

had. He appeared to be a sensible intelligent man, and I felt no small

mortification in not being able to converse with him, unless by signs,

assisted by figures, and other characters, which however were a very

great help. I desired to see him on board the next day, and accordingly

he came, with all his attendants. Indeed, he had moved into our

neighbourhood for the express purpose of waiting upon us.

I was in hopes to have had by him the chart which his three countrymen

had promised; but I was disappointed. However, he assured me I should

have it; and he kept his word. I found that he was very well acquainted

with the geography of these parts, and with all the discoveries that had

been made in them by the Russians. On seeing the modern maps, he at once

pointed out their errors. He told me he had accompanied Lieutenant

Syndo, or Synd as he called him, in his expedition to the north; and,

according to his account, they did not proceed farther than the

Tschukotskoi Nos, or rather than the bay of St. Laurence, for he pointed

on our chart to the very place where I landed. From thence, he said,

they went to an island in latitude 63°, upon which they did not land,

nor could he tell me its name. But I should guess it to be the same to

which I gave the name of Clerke’s Island. To what place Synd went after

that, or in what manner he spent the two years, during which, as

Ismyloff said, his researches lasted, he either could not or would not

inform us. Perhaps he did not comprehend our enquiries about this, and

yet, in almost every other thing, we could make him understand us. This

created a suspicion that he had not really been in that expedition,

notwithstanding his assertion.

Both Ismyloff and the others affirmed, that they knew nothing of the

continent of America to the northward; and that neither Lieutenant Synd,

nor any other Russian had ever seen it of late. They call it by the same

name which Mr. Stæhlin gives to his great island, that is Alaschka.

Stachtan Nitada, as it is called in the modern maps, is a name quite

unknown to these people, natives of the islands as well as Russians; but

both of them know it by the name of America. From what we could gather

from Ismyloff and his countrymen, the Russians have made several

attempts to get a footing upon that part of this continent that lies

contiguous to Oonalashka and the adjoining islands, but have always been

repulsed by the natives, whom they describe as a very treacherous

people. They mentioned two or three captains, or chief men, who had been

murdered by them; and some of the Russians shewed us wounds which they

said they had received there.

Some other information, which we got from Ismyloff, is worth recording,

whether true or false. He told us, that in the year 1773, an expedition

had been made into the Frozen Sea in sledges, over the ice, to three

large islands that lie opposite the mouth of the river Kovyma. We were

in some doubt whether he did not mean the same expedition of which

Muller gives an account[88], and yet he wrote down the year, and marked

the islands on the chart. But a voyage which he himself had performed,

engaged our attention more than any other. He said, that on the 12th of

May, 1771, he sailed from Bolscheretzk, in a Russian vessel, to one of

the Kuril islands, named Mareekan, in the latitude of 47°, where there

is a harbour and a Russian settlement. From this island he proceeded to

Japan, where he seems to have made but a short stay. For when the

Japanese came to know that he and his companions were Christians, they

made signs for them to be gone, but did not, so far as we could

understand him, offer any insult or force. From Japan he got to Canton,

and from thence to France, in a French ship. From France, he travelled

to Petersburg; and was afterward sent out again to Kamtschatka. What

became of the vessel in which he first embarked, we could not learn, nor

what was the principal object of the voyage. His not being able to speak

one word of French, made this story a little suspicious. He did not even

know the name of any one of the most common things that must have been

in use every day, while he was on board the ship and in France. And yet

he seemed clear as to the times of his arriving at the different places,

and of his leaving them, which he put down in writing.

The next morning he would fain have made me a present of a sea-otter

skin, which he said was worth eighty roubles at Kamtschatka. However, I

thought proper to decline it; but I accepted of some dried fish, and

several baskets of the lily or _saranne_ root, which is described at

large in the History of Kamtschatka.[89] In the afternoon, Mr. Ismyloff,

after dining with Captain Clerke, left us with all his retinue,

promising to return in a few days. Accordingly, on the 19th, he made us

another visit, and brought with him the charts before mentioned, which

he allowed me to copy; and the contents of which furnish matter for the

following observations.

There were two of them, both manuscripts, and bearing every mark of

authenticity. The first comprehended the _Penshinskian Sea_; the coast

of Tartary, as low as the latitude of 41°; the Kuril Islands; and the

peninsula of Kamtschatka. Since this map had been made, Wawseelee

Irkechoff, Captain of the fleet, explored, in 1758, the coast of Tartary

from Okotsk, and the river Amur, to Japan, or 41° of latitude. Mr.

Ismyloff also informed us, that great part of the sea-coast of the

peninsula of Kamtschatka had been corrected by himself; and described

the instrument he made use of, which must have been a _theodolite_. He

also informed us, that there were only two harbours fit for shipping on

all the east coast of Kamtschatka, _viz._ the bay of _Awatska_ and the

river _Olutora_, in the bottom of the gulf of the same name; that there

was not a single harbour upon its west coast; and that _Yamsk_ was the

only one on all the west side of the Penshinskian Sea, except Okotsk,

till we come to the river Amur. The Kurile islands afford only one

harbour; and that is on the north-east side of Mareekan, in the latitude

of 47-1/2°; where, as I have before observed, the Russians have a

settlement.

The second chart was to me the most interesting, for it comprehended all

the discoveries made by the Russians to the eastward of Kamtschatka,

toward America, which, if we exclude the voyage of Beering and

Tscherikoff, will amount to little or nothing. The part of the American

coast with which the latter fell in is marked in this chart, between the

latitude of 58° and 58-1/2°, and 75° of longitude from Okotsk, or

218-1/2° from Greenwich; and the place where the former anchored in

59-1/2° of latitude, and 63-1/2° of longitude from Okotsk, or 207° from

Greenwich. To say nothing of the longitude, which may be erroneous from

many causes, the latitude of the coast discovered by these two

navigators, especially the part of it discovered by Tscherikoff, differs

considerably from the account published by Mr. Muller, and his chart.

Indeed, whether Muller’s chart, or this now produced by Mr. Ismyloff, be

most erroneous in this respect, it may be hard to determine, though it

is not now a point worth discussing. But the islands that lie dispersed

between 52° and 55° of latitude, in the space between Kamtschatka and

America, deserve some notice. According to Mr. Ismyloff’s account,

neither the number nor the situation of these islands is well

ascertained. He struck out about one-third of them, assuring me they had

no existence; and he altered the situation of others considerably,

which, he said, was necessary, from his own observations. And there was

no reason to doubt about this. As these islands lie all nearly under the

same parallel, different navigators, being misled by their different

reckonings, might easily mistake one island, or group of islands, for

another; and fancy they had made a new discovery, when they had only

found old ones in a different position from that assigned to them by

their former visitors.

The islands of St. Macarius, St. Stephen, St. Theodore, St. Abraham,

Seduction Island, and some others, which are to be found in Mr. Muller’s

chart, had no place in this now produced to us; nay, both Mr. Ismyloff,

and the others assured me, that they had been several times sought for

in vain. And yet it is difficult to believe, how Mr. Muller, from whom

subsequent map-makers have adopted them, could place them in his chart

without some authority. Relying, however, on the testimony of these

people, whom I thought competent witnesses, I have left them out of my

chart; and made such corrections amongst the other islands as I was told

was necessary. I found there was wanting another correction; for the

difference of longitude, between the Bay of Awatska, and the harbour of

Samganoodha, according to astronomical observations, made at these two

places, is greater by five degrees and a half, than it is by the chart.

This error I have supposed to be infused throughout the whole, though it

may not be so in reality. There was also an error in the latitude of

some places; but this hardly exceeded a quarter of a degree.

I shall now give some account of the islands; beginning with those that

lie nearest to Kamtschatka, and reckoning the longitude from the harbour

of Petropaulowska, in the Bay of Awatska. The first is _Beering’s

Island_, in 55° of latitude, and 6° of longitude. Ten leagues from the

south end of this, in the direction of east by south, or east

south-east, lies _Maidenoi Ostroff_, or the Copper Island. The next

island is _Atakou_, laid down in 52° 45ʹ of latitude, and in 15° or 16°

of longitude. This island is about eighteen leagues in extent, in the

direction of east and west; and seems to be the same land which Beering

fell in with, and named _Mount St. John_. But there are no islands about

it, except two inconsiderable ones, lying three or four leagues from the

east end, in the direction of east north-east.

We next come to a group, consisting of six or more islands; two of

which, _Atghka_ and _Amluk_ are tolerably large; and in each of them is

a good harbour. The middle of this group lies in the latitude of 52°

30ʹ, and 28° of longitude from Awatska; and its extent, east and west,

is four degrees. These are the isles that Mr. Ismyloff said were to be

removed four degrees to the east, which is here done. And in the

situation they have in my chart, was a group, consisting of ten small

islands, which, I was told, were wholly to be struck out; and also two

islands lying between them and the group to which Oonalashka belongs. In

the place of these two, an island called Amoghta (which in the chart was

situated in the latitude of 51° 45ʹ, and 4° of longitude to the west)

was brought.

Nothing more need be said to show how erroneous the situation of many of

these islands may be; and for which I am in nowise accountable. But the

position of the largest group, of which Oonalashka is one of the

principal islands, and the only one in which there is a harbour, is not

liable to any such errors. Most of these islands were seen by us; and

consequently their latitude and longitude were pretty exactly

determined; particularly the harbour of Samganoodha in Oonalashka, which

must be looked upon as a fixed point. This group of islands may be said

to extend as far as Halibut Isles, which are forty leagues from

Oonalashka toward the east north-east. Within these isles, a passage was

marked in Ismyloff’s chart, communicating with Bristol Bay; which

converts about fifteen leagues of the coast, that I had supposed to

belong to the continent, into an island, distinguished by the name of

_Ooneemak_. This passage might easily escape us, as we were informed

that it is very narrow, shallow, and only to be navigated through with

boats, or very small vessels.

It appeared by the chart, as well as by the testimony of Ismyloff and

the other Russians, that this is as far as their countrymen have made

any discoveries, or have extended themselves, since Beering’s time. They

all said, that no Russians had settled themselves so far to the east as

the place where the natives gave the note to Captain Clerke; which Mr.

Ismyloff, to whom I delivered it, on perusing it, said, had been written

at Oomanak. It was, however, from him that we got the name of

_Kodiak_[90], the largest of Schumagin’s Islands; for it had no name

upon the chart produced by him. The names of all the other islands were

taken from it, and we wrote them down as pronounced by him. He said,

they were all such as the natives themselves called their islands by;

but if so, some of the names seem to have been strangely altered. It is

worth observing, that no names were put to the islands which Ismyloff

told us were to be struck out of the chart; and I considered this as

some confirmation that they have not existence.

I have already observed, that the American continent is here called, by

the Russians, as well as by the islanders, Alaschka; which name, though

it properly belong only to the country adjoining to Ooneemak, is used by

them when speaking of the American continent in general, which they know

perfectly well to be a great land.

This is all the information I got from these people, relating to the

geography of this part of the world; and I have reason to believe that

this was all the information they were able to give. For they assured

me, over and over again, that they knew of no other islands, besides

those which were laid down upon this chart; and that no Russian had ever

seen any part of the continent of America to the northward, except that

which lies opposite the country of the Tschutskis.

If Mr. Stæhlin was not grossly imposed upon, what could induce him to

publish a map, so singularly erroneous; and in which many of these

islands are jumbled together in regular confusion, without the least

regard to truth? And yet, he is pleased to call it _a very accurate

map_[91]. Indeed, it is a map to which the most illiterate of his

illiterate sea-faring countrymen would have been ashamed to have set his

name.

Mr. Ismyloff remained with us till the 21st, in the evening, when he

took his final leave. To his care I entrusted a letter to the Lords

Commissioners of the Admiralty; in which was enclosed a chart of all the

northern coasts I had visited. He said there would be an opportunity of

sending it to Kamtschatka, or Okotsk, the ensuing spring; and that it

would be at Petersburgh the following winter. He gave me a letter to

Major Behm, Governor of Kamtschatka, who resides at Bolscheretsk; and

another to the commanding officer at Petropaulowska. Mr. Ismyloff seemed

to have abilities that might entitle him to a higher station in life,

than that in which we found him. He was tolerably well versed in

astronomy, and in the most useful branches of the mathematics. I made

him a present of an Hadley’s octant; and though, probably, it was the

first he had ever seen, he made himself acquainted, in a very short

time, with most of the uses to which that instrument can be applied.

In the morning of the 22d, we made an attempt to get to sea, with the

wind at south-east, which miscarried. The following afternoon, we were

visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Soposnicoff, a Russian, who commanded a

boat, or small vessel, at Oomanak. This man had a great share of

modesty; and would drink no strong liquor, of which the rest of his

countrymen, whom we had met with here, were immoderately fond. He seemed

to know more accurately what supplies could be got at the harbour of

Petropaulowska, and the price of the different articles, than Mr.

Ismyloff. But, by all accounts, every thing we should want at that place

was very scarce, and bore a high price. Flour, for instance, was from

three to five roubles the pood[92]; and deer, from three to five roubles

each. This man told us that he was to be at Petropaulowska in May next;

and, as I understood, was to have the charge of my letter. He seemed to

be exceedingly desirous of having some token from me to carry to Major

Behm; and, to gratify him, I sent a small spying-glass.

After we became acquainted with these Russians, some of our gentlemen,

at different times, visited their settlement on the island; where they

always met with a hearty welcome. This settlement consisted of a

dwelling-house, and two store-houses. And, besides the Russians, there

was a number of the Kamtschadales, and of the natives, as servants, or

slaves, to the former. Some others of the natives, who seemed

independent of the Russians, lived at the same place. Such of them as

belonged to the Russians were all males; and they are taken, or,

perhaps, purchased from their parents when young. There were, at this

time, about twenty of these, who could be looked upon in no other light

than as children. They all live in the same house; the Russians at the

upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle; and the natives at the lower

end; where is fixed a large boiler for preparing their food, which

consists chiefly of what the sea produces, with the addition of wild

roots and berries. There is little difference between the first and last

table, besides what is produced by cookery, in which the Russians have

the art to make indifferent things palatable. I have eat whale’s flesh

of their dressing, which I thought very good; and they made a kind of

pan-pudding of salmon roe, beaten up fine, and fried, that is no bad

_succedaneum_ for bread. They may, now and then, taste real bread, or

have a dish in which flour is an ingredient; but this can only be an

occasional luxury. If we except the juice of berries, which they sip at

their meals, they have no other liquor besides pure water; and it seems

to be very happy for them that they have nothing stronger.

As the island supplies them with food, so it does, in a great measure,

with clothing. This consists chiefly of skins, and is, perhaps, the best

they could have. The upper garment is made like our waggoner’s frock,

and reaches as low as the knee. Besides this, they wear a waistcoat or

two, a pair of breeches; a fur cap; and a pair of boots, the soles and

upper leathers of which are of Russian leather; but the legs are made of

some kind of strong gut. Their two chiefs, Ismyloff and Ivanovitch, wore

each a calico frock; and they, as well as some others, had shirts, which

were of silk. These, perhaps, were the only part of their dress not made

amongst themselves.

There are Russians settled upon all the principal islands between

Oonalashka and Kamtschatka, for the sole purpose of collecting furs.

Their great object is the sea beaver or otter. I never heard them

inquire after any other animal; though those, whose skins are of

inferior value, are also made part of their cargoes. I never thought to

ask how long they have had a settlement upon Oonalashka, and the

neighbouring isles; but, to judge from the great subjection the natives

are under, this cannot be of a very late date.[93] All these furriers

are relieved, from time to time, by others. Those we met with arrived

here from Okotsk, in 1776, and are to return in 1781; so that their stay

at the island will be four years at least.

It is now time to give some account of the native inhabitants. To all

appearance, they are the most peaceable, inoffensive people, I ever met

with. And, as to honesty, they might serve as a pattern to the most

civilized nation upon earth. But from what I saw of their neighbours,

with whom the Russians have no connection, I doubt whether this was

their original disposition; and rather think that it has been the

consequence of their present state of subjection. Indeed, if some of our

gentlemen did not misunderstand the Russians, they had been obliged to

make some severe examples[94], before they could bring the islanders

into any order. If there were severities inflicted at first, the best

apology for them is, that they have produced the happiest consequences;

and, at present, the greatest harmony subsists between the two nations.

The natives have their own chiefs in each island, and seem to enjoy

liberty and property unmolested. But whether or no they are tributaries

to the Russians, we could never find out. There was some reason to think

that they are.

[Illustration: _Natives of Oonalashka and their Habitations._]

These people are rather low of stature, but plump and well shaped; with

rather short necks; swarthy chubby faces; black eyes; small beards; and

long, straight, black hair; which the men wear loose behind, and cut

before, but the women tie up in a bunch.

Their dress has been occasionally mentioned. Both sexes wear the same in

fashion; the only difference is in the materials. The women’s frock is

made of seal skin; and that of the men, of the skins of birds; both

reaching below the knee. This is the whole dress of the women. But, over

the frock, the men wear another made of gut, which resists water; and

has a hood to it, which draws over the head. Some of them wear boots;

and all of them have a kind of oval-snouted cap, made of wood, with a

rim to admit the head. These caps are dyed with green and other colours;

and round the upper part of the rim, are stuck the long bristles of some

sea-animal, on which are strung glass beads; and on the front is a small

image or two made of bone.

They make use of no paint; but the women puncture their faces slightly;

and both men and women bore the under lip, to which they fix pieces of

bone. But it is as uncommon at Oonalashka to see a man with this

ornament, as to see a woman without it. Some fix beads to the upper lip,

under the nostrils, and all of them hang ornaments in their ears.

Their food consists of fish, sea-animals, birds, roots, and berries; and

even of sea-weed. They dry large quantities of fish in summer, which

they lay up in small huts for winter use; and, probably, they preserve

roots and berries for the same time of scarcity. They eat almost every

thing raw. Boiling and broiling were the only methods of cookery that I

saw them make use of; and the first was probably learnt from the

Russians. Some have got little brass kettles; and those who have not,

make one of a flat stone, with sides of clay, not unlike a standing pye.

I was once present when the chief of Oonalashka made his dinner of the

raw head of a large halibut just caught. Before any was given to the

chief, two of his servants eat the gills, without any other dressing,

besides squeezing out the slime. This done, one of them cut off the head

of the fish, took it to the sea and washed it; then came with it, and

sat down by the chief; first pulling up some grass, upon a part of which

the head was laid, and the rest was strewed before the chief. He then

cut large pieces off the cheeks, and laid these within the reach of the

great man, who swallowed them with as much satisfaction as we should do

raw oysters. When he had done, the remains of the head were cut in

pieces, and given to the attendants, who tore off the meat with their

teeth, and gnawed the bones like so many dogs.

As these people use no paint, they are not so dirty in their persons as

the savages who thus besmear themselves; but they are full as lousy and

filthy in their houses. Their method of building is as follows: They dig

in the ground an oblong square pit, the length of which seldom exceeds

fifty feet, and the breadth twenty; but in general the dimensions are

smaller. Over this excavation, they form the roof of wood which the sea

throws ashore. This roof is covered first with grass, and then with

earth; so that the outward appearance is like a dunghill. In the middle

of the roof, toward each end, is left a square opening, by which the

light is admitted; one of these openings being for this purpose only,

and the other being also used to go in and out by, with the help of a

ladder, or rather a post, with steps cut in it.[95] In some houses there

is another entrance below; but this is not common. Round the sides and

ends of the huts, the families (for several are lodged together) have

their separate apartments, where they sleep, and sit at work; not upon

benches, but in a kind of a concave trench, which is dug all round the

inside of the house, and covered with mats; so that this part is kept

tolerably decent. But the middle of the house, which is common to all

the families, is far otherwise. For, although it be covered with dry

grass, it is a receptacle for dirt of every kind, and the place for the

urine trough; the stench of which is not mended by raw hides, or leather

being almost continually steeped in it. Behind and over the trench are

placed the few effects they are possessed of; such as their clothing,

mats, and skins.

Their household furniture consists of bowls, spoons, buckets, piggins or

cans, matted baskets, and perhaps a Russian kettle or pot. All these

utensils are very neatly made, and well formed; and yet we saw no other

tools among them but the knife and the hatchet; that is, a small flat

piece of iron, made like an adze, by fitting it into a crooked wooden

handle. These were the only instruments we met with there, made of iron.

For although the Russians live amongst them, we found much less of this

metal in their possession than we had met with in the possession of

other tribes on the American continent, who had never seen, nor perhaps

had any intercourse with the Russians. Probably a few beads, a little

tobacco and snuff, purchase all they have to spare. There are few, if

any of them, that do not both smoke and chew tobacco, and take snuff; a

luxury that bids fair to keep them always poor.

They did not seem to wish for more iron, or to want any other

instruments, except sewing-needles, their own being made of bone. With

these they not only sew their canoes, and make their clothes, but also

very curious embroidery. Instead of thread, they use the fibres of

sinews, which they split to the thickness which each sort of work

requires. All sewing is performed by the women. They are the taylors,

shoemakers, and boat-builders, or boat-coverers; for the men, most

probably, construct the frame of wood over which the skins are sewed.

They make mats and baskets of grass, that are both beautiful and strong.

Indeed there is a neatness and perfection in most of their work that

shews they neither want ingenuity nor perseverance.

I saw not a fire-place in any one of their houses. They are lighted as

well as heated by lamps, which are simple, and yet answer the purpose

very well. They are made of a flat stone, hollowed on one side like a

plate, and about the same size, or rather larger. In the hollow part

they put the oil, mixed with a little dry grass, which serves the

purpose of a wick. Both men and women frequently warm their bodies over

one of these lamps, by placing it between their legs, under their

garments, and sitting thus over it for a few minutes.

They produce fire both by collision and by attrition; the former by

striking two stones one against another; on one of which a good deal of

brimstone is first rubbed. The latter method is with two pieces of wood;

one of which is a stick of about eighteen inches in length, and the

other a flat piece. The pointed end of the stick they press upon the

other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill; thus producing fire in a few

minutes. This method is common in many parts of the world. It is

practised by the Kamtschadales, by these people, by the Greenlanders, by

the Brazilians, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders; and probably

by many other nations. Yet some learned and ingenious men have founded

an argument on this custom to prove, that this and that nation are of

the same extraction. But accidental agreements, in a few particular

instances, will not authorize such a conclusion; nor will a

disagreement, either in manners or customs, between two different

nations, of course, prove that they are of different extraction. I could

support this opinion by many instances besides the one just mentioned.

No such thing as an offensive or even defensive weapon was seen amongst

the natives of Oonalashka. We cannot suppose that the Russians found

them in such a defenceless state; it is more probable that for their own

security they have disarmed them. Political reasons too may have induced

the Russians not to allow these islanders to have any large canoes; for

it is difficult to believe they had none such originally, as we found

them amongst all their neighbours. However we saw none here but one or

two belonging to the Russians. The canoes made use of by the natives are

the smallest we had any where seen upon the American coast; though built

after the same manner, with some little difference in the construction.

The stern of these terminates a little abruptly; the head is forked; the

upper point of the fork projecting without the under one, which is even

with the surface of the water. Why they should thus construct them is

difficult to conceive; for the fork is apt to catch hold of every thing

that comes in the way; to prevent which they fix a piece of small stick

from point to point. In other respects their canoes are built after the

manner of those used by the Greenlanders and Esquimaux; the framing

being of slender laths, and the covering of seal-skins. They are about

twelve feet long; a foot and a half broad in the middle; and twelve or

fourteen inches deep. Upon occasion they can carry two persons; one of

whom is stretched at full length in the canoe; and the other sits in the

seat, or round hole, which is nearly in the middle. Round this hole is a

rim or hoop of wood, about which is sewed gut skin, that can be drawn

together, or opened like a purse, with leathern thongs fitted to the

outer edge. The man seats himself in this place, draws the skin tight

round his body over his gut frock, and brings the ends of the thongs, or

purse-string, over the shoulder to keep it in its place. The sleeves of

his frock are tied round his wrists; and it being close round his neck,

and the hood drawn over his head, where it is confined by his cap, water

can scarcely penetrate either to his body or into the canoe. If any

should, however, insinuate itself, the boatman carries a piece of

spunge, with which he dries it up. He uses the double-bladed paddle,

which is held with both hands in the middle, striking the water with a

quick regular motion, first on one side and then on the other. By this

means the canoe is impelled at a great rate, and in a direction as

straight as a line can be drawn. In sailing from Egoochshak to

Samganoodha, two or three canoes kept way with the ship, though she was

going at the rate of seven miles an hour.

Their fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon the canoes, under

straps fixed for the purpose. They are all made, in great perfection, of

wood and bone; and differ very little from those used by the

Greenlanders, as they are described by Crantz. The only difference is in

the point of the missile dart; which, in some we saw here, is not above

an inch long; whereas Crantz says that those of the Greenlanders are a

foot and a half in length. Indeed these darts, as well as some other of

their instruments, are so curious that they deserve a particular

description; but as many of them were brought away on board the ships,

this can be done at any time, if thought necessary. These people are

very expert in striking fish, both in the sea and in rivers. They also

make use of hooks and lines, nets and wears. The hooks are composed of

bone, and the lines of sinews.

The fishes, which are common to other northern seas, are found here;

such as whales, grampusses, porpoises, sword-fish, halibut, cod, salmon,

trout, soals, flat-fish; several other sorts of small fish; and there

may be many more that we had no opportunity of seeing. Halibut and

salmon seem to be in the greatest plenty; and on them the inhabitants of

these isles subsist chiefly; at least they were the only sort of fish,

except a few cod, which we observed to be laid up for their winter

store. To the north of 60°, the sea is, in a manner, destitute of small

fish of every kind; but then whales are more numerous.

Seals, and that whole tribe of sea-animals, are not so numerous as in

many other seas. Nor can this be thought strange, since there is hardly

any part of the coast, on either continent, nor any of the islands lying

between them, that is not inhabited, and whose inhabitants hunt these

animals for their food and clothing. Sea-horses are indeed in prodigious

numbers about the ice; and the sea-otter is, I believe, no where found

but in this sea. We sometimes saw an animal with a head like a seal’s,

that blew after the manner of whales. It was larger than a seal, and its

colour was white, with some dark spots. Probably this was the sea-cow,

or _manati_.

I think I may venture to assert, that sea and water-fowls are neither in

such numbers, nor in such variety, as with us in the northern parts of

the Atlantic Ocean. There are some, however, here that I do not remember

to have seen any where else; particularly the _alca monochroa_ of

Steller, before mentioned; and a black and white duck, which I conceive

to be different from the stone-duck described by Krasheninikoff.[96] All

the other birds seen by us are mentioned by this author, except some

that we met with near the ice; and most, if not all of these, are

described by Martin in his voyage to Greenland. It is a little

extraordinary that penguins, which are common in many parts of the

world, should not be found in this sea. Albatrosses too are so very

scarce, that I cannot help thinking that this is not their proper

climate.

The few land-birds that we met with are the same with those in Europe;

but there may be many others which we had no opportunity of knowing. A

very beautiful bird was shot in the woods at Norton Sound, which, I am

told, is sometimes found in England, and known by the name of chatterer.

Our people met with other small birds there, but in no great variety and

abundance; such as the wood-pecker, the bull-finch, the yellow-finch,

and a small bird called a tit-mouse.

As our excursions and observations were confined wholly to the

sea-coast, it is not to be expected that we could know much of the

animals or vegetables of the country. Except musquitoes, there are few

other insects, or reptiles, that I saw, but lizards. There are no deer

upon Oonalashka, nor upon any other of the islands. Nor have they any

domestic animals, not even dogs. Foxes and weasels were the only

quadrupeds we saw; but they told us that they had hares also, and the

_marmottas_ mentioned by Krasheninikoff[97]. Hence it is evident that

the sea and rivers supply the greatest share of food to the inhabitants.

They are also obliged to the sea for all the wood made use of for

building, and other necessary purposes; for not a stick grows upon any

of the islands, nor upon the adjacent coast of the continent.

The learned tell us, that the seeds of plants are, by various means,

conveyed from one part of the world to another; even to islands in the

midst of great oceans, and far remote from any other land. How comes it

to pass that there are no trees growing on this part of the continent of

America, nor any other of the islands lying near it? They are certainly

as well situated for receiving seeds, by all the various ways I have

heard of, as any of those coasts that abound in wood. May not nature

have denied to some soil the power of raising trees without the

assistance of art? As to the drift wood, upon the shores of the islands,

I have no doubt that it comes from America. For although there may be

none on the neighbouring coast, enough may grow farther up the country,

which torrents in the spring may break loose, and bring down to the sea.

And not a little may be conveyed from the woody coasts, though they lie

at a greater distance.

There are a great variety of plants at Oonalashka; and most of them were

in flower the latter end of June. Several of them are such as we find in

Europe, and in other parts of America, particularly in Newfoundland; and

others of them, which are also met with in Kamtschatka, are eat by the

natives both there and here. Of these Krasheninikoff has given us

descriptions. The principal one is the _saranne_, or lily root; which is

about the size of a root of garlick, round, made up of a number of small

cloves, and grains like groats. When boiled, it is somewhat like saloop;

the taste is not disagreeable, and we found means to make some good

dishes with it. It does not seem to be in great plenty, for we got none

but what Ismyloff gave us.

We must reckon amongst the food of the natives some other wild roots;

the stalk of a plant resembling _angelica_, and berries of several

different sorts; such as bramble-berries, cran-berries, hurtle-berries,

heath-berries, a small red berry, which, in Newfoundland, is called

partridge-berry; and another brown berry, unknown to us. This has

somewhat of the taste of a sloe, but is unlike it in every other

respect. It is very astringent, if eaten in any quantity. Brandy might

be distilled from it. Captain Clerke attempted to preserve some; but

they fermented, and became as strong as if they had been steeped in

spirits.

There were a few other plants which we found serviceable, but are not

made use of by either Russians or natives; such as wild purslain,

pea-tops, a kind of scurvy-grass, cresses, and some others. All these we

found very palatable, dressed either in soups or in sallads. On the low

ground, and in the valleys, is plenty of grass, which grows very thick,

and to a great length. I am of opinion that cattle might subsist at

Oonalashka all the year round, without being housed. And the soil, in

many places, seemed capable of producing grain, roots, and vegetables.

But, at present, the Russian traders and the natives seem satisfied with

what nature brings forth.

Native sulphur was seen amongst the inhabitants of the island; but I had

no opportunity of learning where they got it. We found also ochre; a

stone that gives a purple colour, and another that gives a very good

green. It may be doubted whether this last is known. In its natural

state, it is of a greyish green colour, coarse and heavy. It easily

dissolves in oil; but when put into water, it entirely loses its

properties. It seemed to be scarce in Oonalashka; but we were told that

it was in greater plenty on the island of Oonemak. As to the stones

about the shore and hills, I saw nothing in them that was uncommon.

The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on the summits of hills, and

raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the country, one

of the natives who attended me pointed out several of these receptacles

of the dead. There was one of them by the side of the road leading from

the harbour to the village, over which was raised a heap of stones. It

was observed, that every one who passed it, added one to it. I saw in

the country several stone hillocks that seemed to have been raised by

art. Many of them were apparently of great antiquity.

What their notions are of the Deity, and of a future state, I know not.

I am equally unacquainted with their diversions; nothing having been

seen that could give us an insight into either.

They are remarkably cheerful and friendly amongst each other, and always

behaved with great civility to us. The Russians told us, that they never

had any connections with their women, because they were not Christians.

Our people were not so scrupulous; and some of them had reason to repent

that the females of Oonalashka encouraged their addresses without any

reserve, for their health suffered by a distemper that is not unknown

here. The natives of this island are also subject to the cancer, or a

complaint like it, which those whom it attacks are very careful to

conceal. They do not seem to be long-lived. I no where saw a person, man

or woman, whom I could suppose to be sixty years of age, and but very

few who appeared to be above fifty. Probably their hard way of living

may be the means of shortening their days.

I have frequently had occasion to mention, from the time of our arrival

in Prince William’s Sound, how remarkably the natives on this north-west

side of America, resemble the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, in various

particulars of person, dress, weapons, canoes, and the like. However, I

was much less struck with this than with the affinity which we found

subsisting between the dialects of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and

those of Norton’s Sound and Oonalashka. This will appear from a table of

corresponding words, which I put together, and will be inserted in the

course of this work.[98] It must be observed, however, with regard to

the words which we collected on this side of America, that too much

stress is not to be laid upon their being accurately represented; for,

after Mr. Anderson’s death, we had few who took much pains about such

matters, and I have frequently found, that the same words written down

by two or more persons, from the mouth of the same native, on being

compared together, differed not a little. But still, enough is certain,

to warrant this judgment, that there is great reason to believe that all

these nations are of the same extraction; and if so, there can be little

doubt of there being a northern communication of some sort, by sea,

between this west side of America and the east side, through Baffin’s

Bay; which communication, however, may be effectually shut up against

ships, by ice and other impediments. Such, at least, was my opinion at

this time.

I shall now quit these northern regions, with a few particulars relative

to the tides and currents upon the coast, and an account of the

astronomical observations made by us in Samganoodha Harbour.

The tide is no where considerable but in the great river.[99]

The flood comes from the south or south-east, every where following the

direction of the coast to the north-westward. Between Norton Sound and

Cape Prince of Wales, we found a current setting to the north-west,

particularly off the cape, and within Sledge Island. But this current

extended only a little way from the coast; nor was it either consistent

or uniform. To the north of Cape Prince of Wales, we found neither tide

nor current, either on the American or on the Asiatic coast, though

several times looked for. This gave rise to an opinion entertained by

some on board our ships, that the two coasts were connected either by

land or by ice; which opinion received some strength, by our never

having any hollow waves from the north, and by our seeing ice almost the

whole way across.

The following are the results of the several observations made ashore,

during our stay in the harbour of Samganoodha.

The latitude, by the mean of several observed } 53° 5ʹ 0ʺ

meridian altitudes of the sun }

{ By the mean of twenty sets of lunar }

{ observations, with the sun east of the } 193 47 45

The longitude { moon }

{ By the mean of fourteen sets, with the } 193 11 45

{ sun and stars west of the moon }

----------

The mean of these 193 29 45

The longitude assumed 193 30 0

By the mean of equal altitudes of the sun, taken }

on the 12th, 14th, 17th, and 21st, the time-keeper }

was found to be losing on mean time 8ʺ, }

8 each day; and on the last of these days, was }

too slow for mean time 13^h 46^m 43^s, 98. Hence } 200 58 27

the time-keeper must have been too slow, on }

the 4th, the day after our arrival, by 13^h 44^m }

36^s, 62.; and the longitude, by Greenwich }

rate, will be 13^h 23^m 53^s, 8 }

By King George’s (or Nootka) Sound rate 12^h } 194 10 6

56^m 40^s, 4 }

The 30th June, the time-keeper, by the same rate } 193 12 0

gave }

The error of the time-keeper at that time was 0 18 0 W.

At this time, its error was 0 39 54 E.

The error of the time-keeper, between our leaving }

Samganoodha and our return to it again, } 0 57 54

was }

On the 12th of Oct. } A. M. 20° 17ʹ 2ʺ }

the variation } }

} } Mean 19° 59ʹ 15ʺ E.

By the mean of } P. M. 19 41 27 }

three compasses } }

Dip of the { Unmarked end } Dipping { 68° 45ʹ } Face { 69° 30ʹ

needle { Marked end } face east { 69 55 } West { 69 17

Mean of the dip of the north end of the needle 69° 23ʹ 30ʺ.

CHAP. XII.

DEPARTURE FROM OONALASHKA, AND FUTURE VIEWS.—THE ISLAND AMOGHTA.—

SITUATION OF A REMARKABLE ROCK.—THE STRAIT BETWEEN OONALASHKA AND

OONELLA REPASSED.—PROGRESS TO THE SOUTH.—MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT ON BOARD

THE DISCOVERY.—MOWEE, ONE OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, DISCOVERED.—

INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES.—VISIT FROM TERREEOBOO.—ANOTHER ISLAND,

CALLED OWHYHEE, DISCOVERED.—THE SHIPS PLY TO WINDWARD TO GET ROUND

IT.—AN ECLIPSE OF THE MOON OBSERVED.—THE CREW REFUSE TO DRINK

SUGAR-CANE BEER.—CORDAGE DEFICIENT IN STRENGTH.—COMMENDATION OF THE

NATIVES OF OWHYHEE.—THE RESOLUTION GETS TO WINDWARD OF THE ISLAND.—HER

PROGRESS DOWN THE SOUTH-EAST COAST.—VIEWS OF THE COUNTRY, AND VISITS

FROM THE NATIVES.—THE DISCOVERY JOINS.—SLOW PROGRESS WESTWARD.—

KARAKAKOOA BAY EXAMINED BY MR. BLIGH.—VAST CONCOURSE OF THE NATIVES.—

THE SHIPS ANCHOR IN THE BAY.