In the afternoon I sent Mr. King again, with two armed boats, with

orders to land on the northern point of the low land, on the south-east

side of the river; there to display the flag, and to take possession of

the country and river in his Majesty’s name; and to bury in the ground a

bottle, containing some pieces of English coin, of the year 1772, and a

paper, on which were inscribed the names of our ships, and the date of

our discovery. In the mean time, the ships were got under sail, in order

to proceed down the river. The wind still blew fresh, easterly; but a

calm ensued not long after we were under way; and the flood-tide meeting

us off the point where Mr. King landed (and which thence got the name of

_Point Possession_), we were obliged to drop anchor in six fathoms

water, with the point bearing south, two miles distant.

When Mr. King returned, he informed me, that as he approached the shore

about twenty of the natives made their appearance, with their arms

extended; probably to express thus their peaceable disposition, and to

show that they were without weapons. On Mr. King’s and the gentlemen

with him landing with muskets in their hands, they seemed alarmed, and

made signs expressive of their request to lay them down. This was

accordingly done; and then they suffered the gentlemen to walk up to

them, and appeared to be cheerful and sociable. They had with them a few

pieces of fresh salmon, and several dogs. Mr. Law, surgeon of the

Discovery, who was one of the party, having bought one of the latter,

took it down toward the boat and shot it dead in their sight. This

seemed to surprize them exceedingly; and, as if they did not think

themselves safe in such company, they walked away; but it was soon after

discovered that their spears and other weapons were hid in the bushes

close behind them. Mr. King also informed me that the ground was swampy,

and the soil poor, light, and black. It produced a few trees and shrubs;

such as pines, elders, birch, and willows; rose and currant bushes; and

a little grass; but they saw not a single plant in flower.

We weighed anchor, as soon as it was high water, and, with a faint

breeze southerly, stood over to the west shore, where the return of the

flood obliged us to anchor early next morning. Soon after, several large

and some small canoes with natives came off, who bartered their skins;

after which they sold their garments, till many of them were quite

naked. Amongst others, they brought a number of white hare or rabbit

skins, and very beautiful reddish ones of foxes; but there were only two

or three skins of otters. They also sold us some pieces of salmon and

halibut. They preferred iron to every thing else offered to them in

exchange. The lip-ornaments did not seem so frequent amongst them as at

Prince William’s Sound; but they had more of those which pass through

the nose, and, in general, these were also much longer. They had,

however, a greater quantity of a kind of white and red embroidered work

on some parts of their garments, and on other things, such as their

quivers and knife-cases.

At half past ten we weighed with the first of the ebb, and having a

gentle breeze at south, plied down the river; in doing of which, by the

inattention and neglect of the man at the lead, the Resolution struck,

and stuck fast on the bank, that lies nearly in the middle of the river,

and about two miles above the two projecting bluff points before

mentioned. This bank was, no doubt, the occasion of that very strong

rippling, or agitation of the stream, which we had observed when turning

up the river. There was not less than twelve feet depth of water about

the ship, at the lowest of the ebb; but other parts of the bank were

dry. As soon as the ship came aground, I made a signal for the Discovery

to anchor. She, as I afterward understood, had been near ashore on the

west side of the bank. As the flood-tide came in, the ship floated off,

soon after five o’clock in the afternoon, without receiving the least

damage, or giving us any trouble; and, after standing over to the west

shore, into deep water, we anchored to wait for the ebb, as the wind was

still contrary.

We weighed again with the ebb, at ten o’clock at night; and, between

four and five next morning, when the tide was finished, once more cast

anchor about two miles below the bluff point, on the west shore, in

nineteen fathoms water. A good many of the natives came off, when we

were in this station, and attended upon us all the morning. Their

company was very acceptable; for they brought with them a large quantity

of very fine salmon, which they exchanged for such trifles as we had to

give them. Most of it was split ready for drying; and several hundred

weight of it was procured for the two ships.

In the afternoon, the mountains, for the first time since our entering

the river, were clear of clouds; and we discovered a volcano in one of

those on the west side. It is in the latitude of 60° 23ʹ; and is the

first high mountain to the north of Mount St. Augustin. The volcano is

on that side of it that is next the river, and not far from the summit.

It did not now make any striking appearance, emitting only a white

smoke, but no fire.

The wind remaining southerly, we continued to tide it down the river;

and, on the 5th, in the morning, coming to the place where we had lost

our kedge-anchor, made an attempt to recover it, but without success.

Before we left this place, six canoes came off from the east shore; some

conducted by one, and others by two men. They remained at a little

distance from the ships, viewing them, with a kind of silent surprize,

at least half an hour, without exchanging a single word with us, or with

one another. At length they took courage, and came alongside; began to

barter with our people; and did not leave us till they had parted with

every thing they brought with them, consisting of a few skins and some

salmon. And here it may not be improper to remark, that all the people

we had met with in this river seemed, by every striking instance of

resemblance, to be of the same nation with those who inhabit Prince

William’s Sound, but differing essentially from those of Nootka, or King

George’s Sound, both in their persons and language. The language of

these is rather more guttural; but, like the others, they speak strongly

and distinct, in words which seem sentences.

I have before observed, that they are in possession of iron; that is,

they have the points of their spears and knives of this metal; and some

of the former are also made of copper. Their spears are like our

spontoons; and their knives, which they keep in sheaths, are of a

considerable length. These, with a few glass beads, are the only things

we saw amongst them that were not of their own manufacture. I have

already offered my conjectures from whence they derive their foreign

articles; and shall only add here, that, if it were probable that they

found their way to them from such of their neighbours with whom the

Russians may have established a trade, I will be bold to say, the

Russians themselves have never been amongst them; for, if that had been

the case, we should hardly have found them clothed in such valuable

skins as those of the sea-otter.

There is not the least doubt, that a very beneficial fur-trade might be

carried on with the inhabitants of this vast coast. But unless a

northern passage should be found practicable, it seems rather too remote

for Great Britain to receive any emolument from it. It must, however, be

observed, that the most valuable, or rather the only valuable skins, I

saw on this west side of America, were those of the sea-otter. All their

other skins seemed to be of an inferior quality; particularly those of

their foxes and martins. It must also be observed, that most of the

skins, which we purchased, were made up into garments. However, some of

these were in good condition; but others were old and ragged enough; and

all of them very lousy. But as these poor people make no other use of

skins but for clothing themselves, it cannot be supposed that they are

at the trouble of dressing more of them than are necessary for this

purpose. And, perhaps, this is the chief use for which they kill the

animals; for the sea and the rivers seem to supply them with their

principal articles of food. It would, probably, be much otherwise, were

they once habituated to a constant trade with foreigners. This

intercourse would increase their wants, by introducing them to an

acquaintance with new luxuries; and, in order to be enabled to purchase

these, they would be more assiduous in procuring skins, which they would

soon discover to be the commodity most sought for; and a plentiful

supply of which, I make no doubt, would be had in the country.

It will appear, from what has been said occasionally of the tide, that

it is considerable in this river, and contributes very much to

facilitate the navigation of it. It is high-water in the stream, on the

days of the new and full moon, between two and three o’clock, and the

tide rises, upon a perpendicular, between three and four fathoms. The

reason of the tide’s being greater here, than at other parts of this

coast, is easily accounted for. The mouth of the river being situated in

a corner of the coast, the flood that comes from the ocean is forced

into it by both shores, and by that means swells the tide to a great

height. A view of the chart will illustrate this.

The variation of the compass was 25° 40ʹ E.

CHAP. VII.

DISCOVERIES AFTER LEAVING COOK’S RIVER.—ISLAND OF ST. HERMOGENES.—CAPE

WHITSUNDAY.—CAPE GREVILLE.—CAPE BARNABAS.—TWO-HEADED POINT.—TRINITY

ISLAND.—BEERING’S FOGGY ISLAND.—A BEAUTIFUL BIRD DESCRIBED.—KODIAK AND

THE SCHUMAGIN ISLANDS.—A RUSSIAN LETTER BROUGHT ON BOARD BY A NATIVE.—

CONJECTURES ABOUT IT.—ROCK POINT.—HALIBUT ISLAND.—A VOLCANO MOUNTAIN.—

PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE.—ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT OONALASCHKA.—INTERCOURSE

WITH THE NATIVES THERE.—ANOTHER RUSSIAN LETTER.—SAMGANOODHA HARBOUR

DESCRIBED.

As soon as the ebb tide made in our favour, we weighed, and, with a

light breeze, between west south-west, and south south-west, plied down

the river, till the flood obliged us to anchor again. At length, about

one o’clock next morning, a fresh breeze sprung up at west, with which

we got under sail, and, at eight, passed the Barren Isles, and stretched

away for Cape St. Hermogenes. At noon this cape bore south south-east,

eight leagues distant; and the passage between the island of that name,

and the main land, bore south. For this passage I steered, intending to

go through it; but soon after the wind failed us, and we had baffling

light airs from the eastward, so that I gave up my design of carrying

the ships between the island and the main.

At this time, we saw several columns of smoke on the coast of the

continent, to the northward of the passage; and, most probably, they

were meant as signals to attract us thither. Here the land forms a bay,

or perhaps a harbour; off the north-west point of which lies a low rocky

island. There are also some other islands of the same appearance,

scattered along the coast, between this place and Point Banks.

At eight in the evening, the island of St. Hermogenes extended from

south half east to south south-east, a quarter east; and the rocks that

lie on the north side of it bore south-east, three miles distant. In

this situation, we had forty fathoms water over a bottom of sand and

shells. Soon after, on putting over hooks and lines, we caught several

halibut.

At midnight, being past the rocks, we bore up to the southward; and, at

noon, St. Hermogenes bore north, four leagues distant. At this time, the

southernmost point of the main land, within or to the westward of St.

Hermogenes, lay north half west, distant five leagues. This promontory,

which is situated in the latitude of 58° 15ʹ, and in the longitude of

207° 24ʹ was named, after the day, _Cape Whitsunday_. A large bay, which

lies to the west of it, obtained the name of _Whitsuntide Bay_. The land

on the east side of this bay, of which Cape Whitsunday is the southern

point, and Point Banks the northern one, is in all respects like the

island of St. Hermogenes; seemingly destitute of wood, and partly free

from snow. It was supposed to be covered with a mossy substance, that

gave it a brownish cast. There were some reasons to think it was an

island. If this be so, the last mentioned bay is only the straight or

passage that separates it from the main land.

Between one and two in the afternoon, the wind, which had been at

north-east, shifted at once to the southward. It was unsettled till six,

when it fixed at south, which was the very direction of our course; so

that we were obliged to ply up the coast. The weather was gloomy, and

the air dry, but cold. We stood to the eastward till midnight; then

tacked, and stood in for the land; and, between seven and eight in the

morning of the 8th, we were within four miles of it, and not more than

half a league from some sunken rocks, which bore west south-west. In

this situation, we tacked in thirty-five fathoms water, the island of

St. Hermogenes bearing north, 20° E., and the southernmost land in

sight, south.

In standing in for this coast, we crossed the mouth of Whitsuntide Bay,

and saw land all round the bottom of it; so that either the land is

connected, or else the points lock in, one behind another. I am more

inclined to think, that the former is the case; and that the land, east

of the bay, is a part of the continent. Some small islands lie on the

west of the bay. The sea-coast to the southward of it is rather low,

with projecting rocky points, between which are small bays or inlets.

There was no wood, and but little snow upon the coast; but the

mountains, which lie at some distance inland, were wholly covered with

the latter. We stood off till noon; then tacked, and stood in for the

land. The latitude, at this time, was 57° 52-1/2ʹ; Cape St. Hermogenes

bore north, 30° W. eight leagues distant, and the southernmost part of

the coast in sight, the same that was seen before, bore south-west, ten

leagues distant. The land here forms a point, which was named _Cape

Greville_. It lies in the latitude of 57° 33ʹ, and in the longitude of

207° 15ʹ; and is distant fifteen leagues from Cape St. Hermogenes, in

the direction of south, 17° W.

The three following days, we had almost constant misty weather, with

drizzling rain; so that we seldom had a sight of the coast. The wind was

south-east by south, and south south-east, a gentle breeze, and the air

raw and cold. With this wind and weather, we continued to ply up the

coast, making boards of six or eight leagues each. The depth of water

was from thirty to fifty-five fathoms, over a coarse, black sandy

bottom.

The fog clearing up, with the change of the wind to south-west, in the

evening of the 12th, we had a sight of the land bearing west, twelve

leagues distant. We stood in for it early next morning. At noon we were

not above three miles from it; an elevated point, which obtained the

name of _Cape Barnabas_, lying in the latitude of 57° 13ʹ bore

north-east half east, ten miles distant; and the coast extended from

north, 42° E. to west south-west. The north-east extreme was lost in a

haze; but the point to the south-west, whose elevated summit terminated

in two round hills, on that account was called _Two-headed Point_. This

part of the coast, in which are several small bays, is composed of high

hills and deep valleys; and in some places we could see the tops of

other hills, beyond those that form the coast; which was but little

incumbered with snow, but had a very barren appearance. Not a tree or

bush was to be seen upon it: and, in general, it had a brownish hue,

probably the effect of a mossy covering.

I continued to ply to the south-west by west, as the coast trended; and

at six in the evening, being midway between Cape Barnabas and Two-headed

Point, and two leagues from the shore, the depth of water was sixty-two

fathoms. From this station, a low point of land made its appearance

beyond Two-headed Point, bearing south, 69° W.; and without it other

land, that had the appearance of an island, bore south, 59° W.

At noon, on the 13th, being in latitude 56° 49ʹ, Cape St. Barnabas bore

north, 52° E.; Two-headed Point north, 14° W. seven or eight miles

distant; and the coast of the continent extended as far as south,

72-1/2° W.; and the land seen the preceding evening, and supposed to be

an island, now appeared like two islands. From whatever quarter

Two-headed Point was viewed, it had the appearance of being an island;

or else it is a peninsula, on each side of which the shore forms a bay.

The wind still continued westerly, a gentle breeze, the weather rather

dull and cloudy, and the air sharp and dry.

We were well up with the southernmost land next morning, and found it to

be an island, which was named _Trinity Island_. Its greatest extent is

six leagues in the direction of east and west. Each end is elevated

naked land, and in the middle it is low; so that, at a distance, from

some points of view, it assumes the appearance of two islands. It lies

in the latitude of 56° 36ʹ, and in the longitude of 205°; and between

two and three leagues from the continent; which space is interspersed

with small islands and rocks; but there seemed to be good passage

enough, and also safe anchorage. At first, we were inclined to think,

that this was Beering’s _Foggy Island_[75]; but its situation so near

the main does not suit his chart.

At eight in the evening, we stood in for the land, till we were within a

league of the above-mentioned small islands. The westernmost part of the

continent now in sight, being a low point facing Trinity Island, and

which we called _Cape Trinity_, now bore west north-west. In this

situation, having tacked in fifty-four fathoms water, over a bottom of

black sand, we stood over for the island, intending to work up between

it and the main. The land to the westward of Two-headed Point is not so

mountainous as it is to the north-east of it, nor does the snow lie upon

it. There are, however, a good many hills considerably elevated; but

they are disjoined by large tracts of flat land that appeared to be

perfectly destitute of wood, and very barren.

As we were standing over toward the island, we met two men in a small

canoe, paddling from it to the main. Far from approaching us, they

seemed rather to avoid it. The wind now began to incline to the south;

and we had reason to expect, that it would soon be at south-east.

Experience having taught us, that a south-easterly wind was generally,

if not always, accompanied by a thick fog, I was afraid to venture

through between the island and the continent, lest the passage should

not be accomplished before night, or before the thick weather came on,

when we should be obliged to anchor, and by that means lose the

advantage of a fair wind. These reasons induced me to stretch out to

sea; and we passed two or three rocky islets that lie near the east end

of Trinity Island. At four in the afternoon, having weathered the

island, we tacked, and steered west, southerly, with a fresh gale at

south south-east; which, before midnight, veered to the south-east; and

was, as usual, attended with misty, drizzling, rainy weather.

By the course we steered all night, I was in hopes of falling in with

the continent in the morning. And, doubtless, we should have seen it,

had the weather been in the least clear; but the fog prevented. Seeing

no land at noon, and the gale increasing, with a thick fog and rain, I

steered west north-west, under such sail as we could easily haul the

wind with; being fully sensible of the danger of running before a strong

gale in a thick fog, in the vicinity of an unknown coast. It was,

however, necessary to run some risk when the wind favoured us; for clear

weather, we had found, was generally accompanied with winds from the

west.

Between two and three in the afternoon, land was seen through the fog,

bearing north-west, not more than three or four miles distant. Upon this

we immediately hauled up south, close to the wind. Soon after the two

courses were split, so that we had others to bring to the yards; and

several others of our sails received considerable damage. At nine the

gale abated; the weather cleared up; and we got sight of the coast

again, extending from west by south to north-west, about four or five

leagues distant. On sounding, we found a hundred fathoms water, over a

muddy bottom. Soon after, the fog returned, and we saw no more of the

land all night.

At four next morning, the fog being now dispersed, we found ourselves in

a manner surrounded by land; the continent, or what was supposed to be

the continent, extending from west south-west to north-east by north;

and some elevated land, bearing south-east half south; by estimation

eight or nine leagues distant. The north-east extreme of the main was

the same point of land that we had fallen in with during the fog; and we

named it _Foggy Cape_. It lies in latitude 56° 31ʹ. At this time, having

but little wind all night, a breeze sprung up at north-west. With this

we stood to the southward, to make the land, seen in that direction,

plainer.

At nine o’clock, we found it to be an island of about nine leagues in

compass; lying in the latitude of 56° 10ʹ, and in the longitude of 220°

45ʹ; and it is distinguished in our chart by the name of _Foggy Island_;

having reason to believe, from its situation, that it is the same which

had that name given to it by Beering. At the same time, three or four

islands, lying before a bay, formed by the coast of the main land, bore

north by west; a point, with three or four pinnacle rocks upon it, which

was called _Pinnacle Point_, bore north-west by west; and a cluster of

small islets, or rocks, lying about nine leagues from the coast south

south-east.

At noon, when our latitude was 56° 9ʹ, and our longitude 201° 45ʹ, these

rocks bore south, 58° E., ten miles distant; Pinnacle Point, north

north-west, distant seven leagues; the nearest part of the main land

north-west by west, six leagues distant; and the most advanced land to

the south-west, which had the appearance of being an island, bore west,

a little southerly. In the afternoon, we had little or no wind, so that

our progress was inconsiderable. At eight in the evening, the coast

extended from south-west to north north-east; the nearest part about

eight leagues distant.

On the 17th, the wind was between west and north-west, a gentle breeze,

and sometimes almost calm. The weather was clear, and the air sharp and

dry. At noon, the continent extended from south-west to north by east;

the nearest part seven leagues distant. A large group of islands lying

about the same distance from the continent, extended from south 26° W.,

to south 52° W.

It was calm great part of the 18th; and the weather was clear and

pleasant. We availed ourselves of this, by making observations for the

longitude and variation. The latter was found to be 21° 27ʹ E. There can

be no doubt that there is a continuation of the continent between

Trinity Island and Foggy Cape, which the thick weather prevented us from

seeing. For some distance to the south-west of that cape, this country

is more broken or rugged than any part we had yet seen, both with

respect to the hills themselves and to the coast, which seemed full of

creeks, or small inlets, none of which appeared to be of any great

depth. Perhaps, upon a closer examination, some of the projecting points

between these inlets will be found to be islands. Every part had a very

barren aspect; and was covered with snow, from the summits of the

highest hills, down to a very small distance from the sea-coast.

Having occasion to send a boat on board the Discovery, one of the people

in her shot a very beautiful bird of the hawk kind. It is somewhat less

than a duck, and of a black colour, except the fore-part of the head,

which is white; and from above and behind each eye arises an elegant

yellowish-white crest, revolved backward as a ram’s horn. The bill and

feet are red. It is, perhaps, the _alca monochora_ of Steller, mentioned

in the history of Kamtschatka.[76] I think the first of these birds was

seen by us a little to the southward of Cape St. Hermogenes. From that

time we generally saw some of them every day, and sometimes in large

flocks. Besides these, we daily saw most of the other sea-birds that are

commonly found in other northern oceans; such as gulls, shags, puffins,

sheerwaters, and sometimes ducks, geese, and swans. And seldom a day

passed without seeing seals, whales, and other large fish.

In the afternoon, we got a light breeze of wind southerly, which enabled

us to steer west for the channel that appeared between the islands and

the continent; and at day-break next morning, we were at no great

distance from it, and found several other islands within those already

seen by us, of various extent, both in height and circuit. But between

these last islands and those before seen, there seemed to be a clear

channel, for which I steered, being afraid to keep the coast of the

continent aboard, lest we should mistake some point of it for an island,

and by that means be drawn into some inlet, and lose the advantage of

the fair wind which at this time blew.

I therefore kept along the southernmost chain of islands; and at noon we

were in the latitude of 55° 18ʹ, and in the narrowest part of the

channel, formed by them and those which lie along the continent, where

it is about a league and a half or two leagues over. The largest island

in this group was now on our left, and is distinguished by the name of

_Kodiak_[77], according to the information we afterward received. I left

the rest of them without names. I believe them to be the same that

Beering calls Schumagin’s Islands[78]; or those islands which he called

by that name, to be a part of them; for this group is pretty extensive.

We saw islands as far to the southward as an island could be seen. They

commence in the longitude of 200° 15ʹ E., and extend a degree and a

half, or two degrees, to the westward. I cannot be particular; as we

could not distinguish all the islands from the coast of the continent.

Most of these islands are of a good height, very barren and rugged;

abounding with rocks and steep cliffs, and exhibiting other romantic

appearances. There are several snug bays and coves about them; streams

of fresh water run from their elevated parts; some drift-wood was

floating around; but not a tree or bush was to be seen growing on the

land. A good deal of snow still lay on many of them; and the parts of

the continent, which showed themselves between the innermost islands,

were quite covered with it.

At four in the afternoon, we had passed all the islands that lay to the

southward of us; the southernmost, at this time, bearing S. 3° E., and

the westernmost point of land now in sight, S., 82° W. For this point we

steered, and passed between it and two or three elevated rocks that lie

about a league to the east of it.

Some time after we had got through this channel, in which we found forty

fathoms water, the Discovery, now two miles astern, fired three guns,

and brought to, and made the signal to speak with us. This alarmed me

not a little; and as no apparent danger had been remarked in the passage

through the channel, it was apprehended that some accident, such as

springing a leak, must have happened. A boat was immediately sent to

her; and in a short time returned with Captain Clerke. I now learned

from him that some natives, in three or four canoes, who had been

following the ship for some time, at length got under his stern. One of

them then made many signs, taking off his cap, and bowing, after the

manner of Europeans. A rope being handed down from the ship, to this he

fastened a small thin wooden case or box; and having delivered this

safe, and spoken something, and made some signs, the canoes dropped

astern, and left the Discovery. No one on board her had any suspicion

that the box contained any thing till after the departure of the canoes,

when it was accidentally opened, and a piece of paper was found, folded

up carefully, upon which something was written in the Russian language,

as was supposed. The date 1778 was prefixed to it; and, in the body of

the written note there was a reference to the year 1776. Not learned

enough to decypher the alphabet of the writer, his numerals marked

sufficiently that others had preceded us in visiting this dreary part of

the globe, who were united to us by other ties besides those of our

common nature; and the hopes of soon meeting with some of the Russian

traders, could not but give a sensible satisfaction to those who had,

for such a length of time, been conversant with the savages of the

Pacific Ocean, and of the continent of North America.

Captain Clerke was at first of opinion, that some Russians had been

shipwrecked here; and that these unfortunate persons, seeing our ships

pass, had taken this method to inform us of their situation. Impressed

with humane sentiments, on such an occasion, he was desirous of our

stopping till they might have time to join us. But no such idea occurred

to me. It seemed obvious that if this had been the case, it would have

been the first step taken by such shipwrecked persons, in order to

secure to themselves, and to their companions, the relief they could not

but be solicitous about, to send some of their body off to the ships in

the canoes. For this reason, I rather thought that the paper contained a

note of information, left by some Russian trader, who had lately been

amongst these islands, to be delivered to the next of their countrymen

who should arrive; and that the natives, seeing our ships pass, and

supposing us to be Russians, had resolved to bring off the note,

thinking it might induce us to stop. Fully convinced of this, I did not

stay to enquire any farther into the matter; but made sail, and stood

away to the westward, along the coast; perhaps I should say along the

islands; for we could not pronounce, with certainty, whether the nearest

land within us was continent or islands. If not the latter, the coast

here forms some tolerably large and deep bays.

We continued to run all night with a gentle breeze at north-east; and at

two o’clock next morning, some breakers were seen within us, at the

distance of two miles. Two hours after others were seen ahead; and, on

our larboard bow, and between us and the land, they were innumerable. We

did but just clear them by holding a south course. These breakers were

occasioned by rocks; some of which were above water. They extend several

leagues from the land; and are very dangerous, especially in thick

weather, to which this coast seems much subject. At noon we had just got

on their outside; and, by observation, we were in the latitude of 54°

44ʹ, and in the longitude of 198°. The nearest land, being an elevated

bluff point, which was called _Rock Point_, bore north, seven or eight

leagues distant; the westernmost part of the main, or what was supposed

to be the main, bore N. 80° W.; and a round hill, without which was

found to be an island, and was called _Halibut-head_, bore S. 65° W.,

thirteen leagues distant.

On the 21st at noon, having made but little progress, on account of

faint winds and calms, Halibut-head, which lies in the latitude of 54°

27ʹ, and in the longitude of 197°, bore N. 24° W.; and the island on

which it is, and called _Halibut Island_, extended from N. by E., to

N. W. by W. two leagues distant. This island is seven or eight leagues

in circuit; and, except the head, the land of it is low and very barren.

There are several small islands near it, all of the same appearance; but

there seemed to be a passage between them and the main, two or three

leagues broad.

The rocks and breakers before mentioned, forced us so far from the

continent, that we had but a distant view of the coast between Rock

Point and Halibut Island. Over this and the adjoining islands, we could

see the main land covered with snow; but particularly some hills, whose

elevated tops were seen towering above the clouds to a most stupendous

height. The most south-westerly of these hills was discovered to have a

_volcano_, which continually threw up vast columns of black smoke. It

stands not far from the coast; and in the latitude of 54° 48ʹ, and the

longitude of 195° 45ʹ. It is also remarkable from its figure, which is a

complete cone; and the _volcano_ is at the very summit. We seldom saw

this (or indeed any other of these mountains) wholly clear of clouds. At

times both base and summit would be clear; when a narrow cloud,

sometimes two or three, one above another, would embrace the middle,

like a girdle; which, with the column of smoke, rising perpendicular to

a great height out of its top, and spreading before the wind into a tail

of vast length, made a very picturesque appearance. It may be worth

remarking that the wind, at the height to which the smoke of this

_volcano_ reached, moved sometimes in a direction contrary to what it

did at sea, even when it blew a fresh gale.

In the afternoon, having three hours calm, our people caught upward of a

hundred halibuts, some of which weighed a hundred pounds, and none less

than twenty pounds. This was a very seasonable refreshment to us. In the

height of our fishing, which was in thirty-five fathoms water, and three

or four miles from the shore, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came

to us from the large island. On approaching the ship, he took off his

cap, and bowed, as the other had done who visited the Discovery the

preceding day. It was evident that the Russians must have a

communication and traffic with these people, not only from their

acquired politeness, but from the note above-mentioned. But we had now a

fresh proof of it, for our present visitor wore a pair of green cloth

breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, or stuff, under the gut-shirt, or

frock, of his own country. He had nothing to barter, except a grey fox

skin, and some fishing implements or harpoons, the heads of the shafts

of which, for the length of a foot or more, were neatly made of bone, as

thick as a walking cane, and carved. He had with him a bladder full of

something, which we supposed to be oil, for he opened it, took a

mouthful, and then fastened it again.

His canoe was of the same make with those we had seen before, but rather

smaller. He used the double-bladed paddle, as did also those who had

visited the Discovery. In his size and features, he exactly resembled

those we saw in Prince William’s Sound, and in the Great River; but he

was quite free from paint of any kind, and had the perforation of his

lip made in an oblique direction, without any ornament in it. He did not

seem to understand any of the words commonly used by our visitors in the

sound, when repeated to him. But perhaps our faulty pronunciation,

rather than his ignorance of the dialect, may be inferred from this.

The weather was cloudy and hazy, with now and then sunshine, till the

afternoon of the 22d, when the wind came round to the S. E., and, as

usual, brought thick rainy weather. Before the fog came on, no part of

the main land was in sight, except the _volcano_, and another mountain

close by it. I continued to steer W. till seven in the evening, when,

being apprehensive of falling in with the land in thick weather, we

hauled the wind to the southward, till two o’clock next morning, and

then bore away again W. We made but little progress, having the wind

variable and but little of it, till at last it fixed in the western

board, and at five in the afternoon, having a gleam of sunshine, we saw

land bearing N. 59° W., appearing in hillocks like islands.

At six in the morning of the 24th, we got a sight of the continent, and

at nine it was seen extending from N. E. by E. to S. W. by W., 1/2 W.,

the nearest part about four leagues distant. The land to the S. W.

proved to be islands, the same that had been seen the preceding evening;

but the other was a continuation of the continent, without any islands

to obstruct our view of it. In the evening, being about four leagues

from the shore, in forty-two fathoms water, having little or no wind, we

had recourse to our hooks and lines, but only two or three small cod

were caught.

The next morning, we got a breeze easterly, and, what was uncommon with

this wind, clear weather, so that we not only saw the volcano, but other

mountains both to the E. and W. of it, and all the coast of the main

land under them, much plainer than at any time before. It extended from

N. E. by N., to N. W. 1/2 W., where it seemed to terminate. Between this

point and the islands without it, there appeared a large opening, for

which I steered, till we raised land beyond it. This land, although we

did not perceive that it joined the continent, made a passage through

the opening very doubtful. It also made it doubtful whether the land

which we saw to the S. W. was insular or continental; and, if the

latter, it was obvious that the opening would be a deep bay or inlet,

from which, if once we entered it with an easterly wind, it would not be

so easy to get out. Not caring, therefore, to trust too much to

appearances, I steered to the southward. Having thus got without all the

land in sight, I then steered W., in which direction the islands lay,

for such we found this land to be.

By eight o’clock we had passed three of them, all of a good height. More

of them were now seen to the westward, the south-westernmost part of

them bearing W. N. W. The weather in the afternoon became gloomy, and at

length turned to a mist, and the wind blew fresh at E. I therefore, at

ten at night, hauled the wind to the southward till day-break, when we

resumed our course to the W.

Daylight availed us little, for the weather was so thick that we could

not see a hundred yards before us; but as the wind was now moderate, I

ventured to run. At half past four, we were alarmed at hearing the sound

of breakers on our larboard bow. On heaving the lead, we found

twenty-eight fathoms water, and the next cast, twenty-five. I

immediately brought the ship to with her head to the northward, and

anchored in this last depth, over a bottom of coarse sand, calling the

Discovery, she being close to us, to anchor also.

A few hours after, the fog having cleared away a little, it appeared

that we had escaped very imminent danger. We found ourselves three

quarters of a mile from the N. E. side of an island, which extended from

S. by W. 1/2 W. to N. by E. 1/2 E., each extreme about a league distant.

Two elevated rocks, the one bearing S. by E., and the other E. by S.,

were about half a league each from us, and about the same distance from

each other. There were several breakers about them, and yet Providence

had, in the dark, conducted the ships through between these rocks, which

I should not have ventured in a clear day, and to such an

anchoring-place, that I could not have chosen a better.

Finding ourselves so near land, I sent a boat to examine what it

produced. In the afternoon she returned, and the officer who commanded

her reported, that it produced some tolerably good grass and several

other small plants, one of which was like purslain, and ate very well,

either in soups or as a salad. There was no appearance of shrubs or

trees, but on the beach were a few pieces of drift-wood. It was judged

to be low water between ten and eleven o’clock; and we found, where we

lay at anchor, that the flood-tide came from the E. or S. E.

In the night, the wind blew fresh at S., but was more moderate toward

the morning, and the fog partly dispersed. Having weighed at seven

o’clock, we steered to the northward, between the island under which we

had anchored, and another small one near it. The channel is not above a

mile broad; and before we were through it, the wind failed, and we were

obliged to anchor in thirty-four fathoms water. We had now land in every

direction; that to the S. extended to the S. W., in a ridge of

mountains, but our sight could not determine whether it composed one or

more islands. We afterward found it to be only one island, and known by

the name of _Oonalashka_. Between it and the land to the N., which had

the appearance of being a group of islands, there seemed to be a channel

in the direction of N. W. by N. On a point which bore W. from the ship,

three quarters of a mile distant, were several natives and their

habitations. To this place we saw them tow in two whales, which we

supposed they had just killed. A few of them now and then came off to

the ships, and bartered a few trifling things with our people; but never

remained above a quarter of an hour at a time. On the contrary, they

rather seemed shy, and yet we could judge that they were no strangers to

vessels, in some degree, like ours. They behaved with a degree of

politeness uncommon to savage tribes.

At one o’clock in the afternoon, having a light breeze at N. E., and the

tide of flood in our favour, we weighed and steered for the channel

above mentioned, in hopes, after we were through, of finding the land

trend away to the northward, or, at least, a passage out to sea to the

W. For we supposed ourselves, as it really happened, to be amongst

islands, and not in an inlet of the continent. We had not been long

under sail before the wind veered to the N., which obliged us to ply.

The soundings were from forty to twenty-seven fathoms, over a bottom of

sand and mud. In the evening, the ebb making against us, we anchored

about three leagues from our last station, with the passage bearing

N. W.

At daybreak the next morning, we weighed with a light breeze at S.,

which carried us up the passage, when it was succeeded by variable light

airs from all directions; but as there ran a rapid tide in our favour,

the Resolution got through before the ebb made. The Discovery was not so

fortunate: she was carried back, got into the race, and had some trouble

to get clear of it. As soon as we were through, the land on one side was

found to trend W. and S. W., and that on the other side to trend N. This

gave us great reason to hope that the continent had there taken a new

direction, which was much in our favour. Being in want of water, and

perceiving that we ran some risk of driving about in a rapid tide,

without wind to govern the ship, I stood for a harbour lying on the

south side of the passage; but we were very soon driven past it; and to

prevent being forced back through the passage, came to an anchor in

twenty-eight fathoms water, pretty near the southern shore, out of the

reach of the strong tide; and yet, even here, we found it run full five

knots and a half in the hour.

While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us, each in a

canoe, and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, a

young man, overset his canoe, while along-side one of our boats. Our

people caught hold of him; but the canoe went adrift, and being picked

up by another, was carried ashore. The youth, by this accident, was

obliged to come into the ship, and he went down into my cabin upon the

first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness.

His dress was an upper garment like a shirt, made of the large gut of

some sea-animal, probably the whale, and an under garment of the same

shape, made of the skins of birds dressed with the feathers on, and

neatly sewed together, the feathered side being worn next his skin. It

was mended or patched with pieces of silk-stuff, and his cap was

ornamented with two or three sorts of glass beads. His own clothes being

wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as much ease as

I could have done. From his behaviour, and that of some others, we were

convinced that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to some

of their customs. But there was something in our ships that greatly

excited their curiosity; for such as could not come off in canoes,

assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at them.

At low water, having weighed and towed the ship into the harbour, we

anchored there in nine fathoms water, over a bottom of sand and mud; the

Discovery got in soon after. A launch was now sent for water, and a boat

to draw the seine, but we caught only four trout and a few other small

fish.

Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on board such

another note as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to me,

but it was written in the Russian language, which, as already observed,

none of us could read. As it could be of no use to me, and might be of

consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him

with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks, by making

several low bows as he retired.

In walking next day along the shore, I met with a group of natives of

both sexes, seated on the grass at a repast consisting of raw fish,

which they seemed to eat with as much relish as we should a turbot,

served up with the richest sauce. By the evening we had completed our

water, and made such observations as the time and weather would permit.

I have taken notice of the rapidity of the tide without the harbour, but

it was inconsiderable within. It was low water at noon; and high water

at half past six in the evening; and the water rose, upon a

perpendicular, three feet four inches; but there were marks of its

sometimes rising a foot higher.

Thick fogs and a contrary wind detained us till the 2d of July, which

afforded an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of the country and

of its inhabitants. The result of our observations will be mentioned in

another place. At present, I shall only describe the harbour.

It is called by the natives _Samganoodha_, and is situated on the north

side of Oonalashka, in the latitude of 53° 55ʹ, in the longitude of 193°

30ʹ; and in the strait or passage that separates this island from those

that lie to the north of it, and whose position before the harbour

shelters it from the winds that blow from that quarter. It runs in S. by

W., about four miles, and is about a mile broad at the entrance,

narrowing toward the head, where its breadth is not above a quarter of a

mile, and where ships can lie land-locked, in seven, six, and four

fathoms water. Great plenty of good water may be easily got, but not a

single stick of wood of any size.

CHAP. VIII.

PROGRESS NORTHWARD, AFTER LEAVING OONALASHKA.—THE ISLANDS OONELLA AND

ACOOTAN.—OONEEMAK.—SHALLOWNESS OF THE WATER ALONG THE COAST.—BRISTOL

BAY.—ROUND ISLAND.—CALM POINT.—CAPE NEWENHAM.—LIEUTENANT WILLIAMSON

LANDS, AND HIS REPORT.—BRISTOL BAY, AND ITS EXTENT.—THE SHIPS OBLIGED

TO RETURN, ON ACCOUNT OF SHOALS.—NATIVES COME OFF TO THE SHIPS.—DEATH

OF MR. ANDERSON; HIS CHARACTER; AND ISLAND NAMED AFTER HIM.—POINT

RODNEY.—SLEDGE ISLAND, AND REMARKS ON LANDING THERE.—KING’S ISLAND.—

CAPE PRINCE OF WALES, THE WESTERN EXTREME OF AMERICA.—COURSE

WESTWARD.—ANCHOR IN A BAY ON THE COAST OF ASIA.

Having put to sea with a light breeze, at south south-east, we steered

to the north, meeting with nothing to obstruct us in this course; for,

as I observed before, the Island of Oonalashka, on the one side, tended

south-west, and on the other, no land was to be seen in a direction more

northerly than north-east; the whole of which land was a continuation of

the same group of islands which we had fallen in with on the 25th of

June. That which lies before Samganoodha, and forms the north-east side

of the passage through which we came, is called _Oonella_, and is about

seven leagues in circumference. Another island, to the north-east of it,

is called _Acootan_, which is considerably larger than Oonella, and hath

in it some very high mountains, which were covered with snow. It

appeared, that we might have gone very safely between these two islands

and the continent, the south-west point of which opened off the

north-east point of Acootan, in the direction of north, 60° east; and

which proved to be the same point of land we had seen when we quitted

the coast of the continent, on the 25th of June, to go without the

islands. It is called by the people of these parts _Oonemak_, and lies

in the latitude of 54° 30ʹ, and in the longitude of 192° 30ʹ. Over the

cape, which, of itself, is high land, is a round elevated mountain, at

this time entirely covered with snow.

At six in the evening, this mountain bore east 2° north, and at eight we

had no land in sight. Concluding, therefore, that the coast of the

continent had now taken a north-easterly direction, I ventured to steer

the same course, till one o’clock next morning, when the watch on deck

thought they saw land ahead. Upon this we wore, and stood to the

south-west for two hours, and then resumed our course to the

east-north-east.

At six o’clock land was seen ahead, bearing south-east, about five

leagues distant. As we advanced, we raised more and more land, all

connected, and seemingly in the direction of our course. At noon, it

extended from south-south-west to east; the nearest part five or six

leagues distant. Our latitude at this time was 55° 21ʹ, and our

longitude 195° 18ʹ. This coast is on the north-west side of the

_volcano_ mountain; so that we must have seen it, if the weather had

been tolerably clear.

At six in the evening, after having run eight leagues upon an east by

north course from noon, we sounded, and found forty-eight fathoms over a

bottom of black sand. Being at this time four leagues from the land, the

eastern part in sight bore east-south-east, and appeared as a high round

hummock, seemingly detached from the main.

Having continued to steer east-north-east all night, at eight in the

morning of the 4th the coast was seen from south-south-west, and east by

south, and at times we could see high land, covered with snow, behind

it. Soon after, it fell calm, and being in thirty fathoms water, we put

over hooks and lines, and caught a good number of fine cod-fish. At

noon, having now a breeze from the east, and the weather being clear, we

found ourselves six leagues from the land, which extended from south by

west to east by south. The hummock, seen the preceding evening, bore

south-west by south, ten leagues distant. Our latitude was now 55° 50ʹ,

and our longitude 197° 3ʹ. A great hollow swell from west-south-west

assured us that there was no main land near, in that direction. I stood

to the north till six in the afternoon, when the wind having veered to

the south-east enabled us to steer east-north-east. The coast lay in

this direction, and at noon the next day was about four leagues distant.

On the 6th and 7th, the wind being northerly, we made but little

progress. At eight in the evening of the latter, we were in nineteen

fathoms water, and about three or four leagues from the coast, which on

the 8th extended from south-south-west to east by north, and was all low

land, with a ridge of mountains behind it, covered with snow. It is

probable, that this low coast extends some distance to the south-west;

and that such places as we sometimes took for inlets or bays are only

vallies between the mountains.

On the morning of the 9th, with a breeze at north-west, we steered east

by north, to get nearer the coast. At noon, we were in the latitude of

57° 49ʹ, and in the longitude of 201° 33ʹ, and about two leagues from

the land, which extended from south by east to east-north-east; being

all a low coast, with points shooting out in some places, which, from

the deck, appeared like islands; but from the mast-head, low land was

seen to connect them. In this situation, the depth of water was fifteen

fathoms, the bottom a fine black sand.

As we had advanced to the north-east, we had found the depth of water

gradually decreasing, and the coast trending more and more northerly.

But the ridge of mountains behind it continued to lie in the same

direction as those more westerly; so that the extent of the low land

between the foot of the mountains and the sea-coast insensibly

increased. Both high and low-grounds were perfectly destitute of wood,

but seemed to be covered with green turf, except the mountains, which

were covered with snow. Continuing to steer along the coast with a

gentle breeze westerly, the water gradually shoaled from fifteen to ten

fathoms, though we were at the distance of eight or ten miles from the

shore. At eight in the evening, an elevated mountain, which had been in

sight for some time, bore south-east by east, twenty-one leagues

distant. Some other mountains, belonging to the same chain, and much

farther distant, bore east 3° north. The coast extended as far as

north-east half north, where it seemed to terminate in a point, beyond

which we hoped and expected that it would take a more easterly

direction. But soon after, we discovered low land extending from behind

this point, as far as north-west by west, where it was lost in the

horizon; and behind it was high land, that appeared in detached hills.

Thus the fine prospect we had of getting to the north, vanished in a

moment. I stood on till nine o’clock, for so long it was light, and then

the point above mentioned bore north-east half east, about three miles

distant. Behind this point is a river, the entrance of which seemed to

be a mile broad; but I can say nothing as to its depth. The water

appeared discoloured, as upon shoals, but a calm would have given it the

same aspect. It seemed to have a winding direction, through the great

flat that lies between the chain of mountains to the south-east and the

hills to the north-west. It must abound with salmon, as we saw many

leaping in the sea before the entrance; and some were found in the maws

of cod which we had caught. The entrance of this river, distinguished by

the name of _Bristol River_, lies in the latitude of 58° 27ʹ, and in the

longitude of 201° 55ʹ.

Having spent the night in making short boards, at daybreak, on the

morning of the 10th, we made sail to the west-south-west, with a gentle

breeze at north-east. At eleven o’clock we thought the coast to the

north-west terminated in a point, bearing north-west by west; and as we

had now deepened the water from nine to fourteen fathoms, I steered for

the point, ordering the Discovery to keep ahead. But before she had run

a mile, she made a signal for shoal water. At that instant, we had the

depth of seven fathoms; and before we could get the ship’s head the

other way had less than five; but the Discovery had less than four.

We stood back to the north-east, three or four miles; but finding there

was a strong tide or current setting to the west-south-west, that is,

toward the shoal, we anchored in ten fathoms, over a bottom of fine

sand. Two hours after we had anchored, the water had fallen two feet and

upward, which proved that it was the tide of ebb that came from the

river above mentioned. We also examined some of the water which we had

taken up, and found that it was not half so salt as common sea water.

This furnished another proof that we were before a large river.

At four in the afternoon, the wind shifting to south-west, we weighed

and stood to the southward, with boats ahead sounding, and passed over

the south end of the shoal, in six fathoms water. We then got into

thirteen and fifteen; in which last depth we anchored at half past

eight; some part of the chain of mountains, on the south-east shore, in

sight, bearing south-east half south; and the westernmost land on the

other shore north-west. We had, in the course of the day, seen high

land, bearing north 60° west, by estimation twelve leagues distant.

Having weighed next morning, at two o’clock, with a light breeze at

south-west by west, we plied to windward till nine; when, judging the

flood-tide to be now made against us, we came to an anchor in

twenty-four fathoms. We lay here till one, when the fog, which had

prevailed this morning, dispersing, and the tide making in our favour,

we weighed and plied to the south-west. In the evening, the wind was

very variable, and we had some thunder. We had heard none before, since

our arrival upon the coast; and this was at a great distance.

The wind having settled again in the south-west quarter, in the morning

of the 12th, we stood to the north-west, and at ten saw the continent.

At noon, it extended from north-east by north, to north-north-west, a

quarter west; and an elevated hill bore north-north-west, ten leagues

distant. This proved to be an island, which from its figure obtained the

name of _Round Island_. It lies in the latitude of 58° 37ʹ, and in the

longitude of 200° 6ʹ, and seven miles from the continent. In the

evening, at nine, having stood to the northward to within three leagues

of the shore, we tacked in fourteen fathoms water, the extremities of

the coast bearing east-south-east half east, and west. The wind veering

to the north-west enabled us to make a good stretch along shore, till

two o’clock in the morning, when we got all at once into six fathoms

water, being at this time two leagues from the shore. After edging off a

little, our depth gradually increased, and at noon we had twenty

fathoms, when the latitude was 58° 13ʹ, and the longitude 199°. Round

Island bore north, 5° east; and the west extreme of the coast north, 16°

west, seven leagues distant. It is an elevated point, which obtained the

name of _Calm Point_, from our having calm weather when off it. To the

north-west of Round Island are two or three hillocks, that appeared like

islands; and it is possible they may be such; for we had but a distant

view of the coast in this place.

During the 14th and 15th, our progress was slow, having little wind, and

sometimes so thick a fog, that we could not see the length of the ship.

The soundings were from fourteen to twenty-six fathoms; and we had

tolerable success in fishing, catching cod, and now and then a few flat

fish. At five in the morning of the 16th, the fog having cleared up, we

found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Calm Point bore north,

72° east, and a point eight leagues from it, in the direction of west,

bore north, 3° east, three miles distant. Between these two points, the

coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible

from the mast-head. There is also a bay on the north-west side of this

last point, between it and an elevated promontory, which, at this time,

bore north, 36° west, sixteen miles distant. At nine, I sent Lieutenant

Williamson to this promontory, with orders to land, and see what

direction the coast took beyond it, and what the country produced, for

from the ships it had but a barren appearance. We found here the

flood-tide setting strongly to the north-west along the coast. At noon

it was high-water, and we anchored in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues

distant from the shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in our

favour, we weighed, and drove with it; for there was no wind.

Soon after, Mr. Williamson returned, and reported that he had landed on

the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found that the farthest

part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the

country in his Majesty’s name, and left on the hill a bottle, in which

were inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of the ships, and the

date of the discovery. The promontory, to which he gave the name of

_Cape Newenham_, is a rocky point, of tolerable height, situated in the

latitude of 58° 42ʹ, and in the longitude of 197° 36ʹ. Over, or within

it, are two elevated hills, rising one behind the other. The innermost,

or easternmost, is the highest. The country, as far as Mr. Williamson

could see, produces neither tree nor shrub; the hills are naked; but on

the lower grounds grew grass and other plants, very few of which were in

flower. He saw no other animal but a doe and her fawn, and a dead

sea-horse, or cow, upon the beach. Of these animals we had lately seen a

great many.

As the coast takes a northerly direction from Cape Newenham, that cape

fixes the northern limit of the great bay and gulf, lying before the

river Bristol, which, in honour of the admiral Earl of Bristol, was

named _Bristol Bay_. Cape _Ooneemak_ is the south limit of this bay, and

is distant eighty-two leagues from Cape Newenham, in the direction of

south-south-west.

About eight in the evening, a light breeze springing up, which fixed at

S. S. E., we steered N. W., and N. N. W., round Cape Newenham, which at

noon next day bore S. by E., distant four leagues. At this time the most

advanced land to the northward bore N., 30° E.; our depth of water was

seventeen fathoms; and the nearest shore 3-1/2 leagues distant. We had

but little wind all the afternoon; so that, at ten at night, we had only

made three leagues upon a north course.

We steered N. by W. till eight the next morning, when, our depth of

water decreasing suddenly to five and seven fathoms, we brought to, till

a boat from each ship was sent ahead to sound, and then steered

north-east after them; and at noon we had deepened the water to

seventeen fathoms. At this time Cape Newenham bore S. 9° E., distant

eleven or twelve leagues, the north-east extreme of the land in sight N.

66° E., and the nearest shore about four or five leagues distant. Our

latitude, by observation, was 59° 16ʹ.

Between this latitude and Cape Newenham the coast is composed of hills

and low land, and appeared to form several bays. A little before one

o’clock the boats ahead made the signal for meeting with shoal water. It

seems they had only two fathoms, and at the same time the ships were in

six fathoms. By hauling a little more to the northward, we continued in

much the same depth till between five and six o’clock, when the boats

meeting with less and less water, I made the signal to the Discovery,

she being then ahead, to anchor, which we did soon after. In bringing

our ship up, the cable parted at the clinch, which obliged us to come to

with the other anchor. We rode in six fathoms water, a sandy bottom, and

about four or five leagues from the main land; Cape Newenham bearing

south, seventeen leagues distant. The farthest hills we could see to the

north, bore N. E. by E.; but there was low land stretching out from the

high land, as far as north by east. Without this was a shoal of sand and

stones, that was dry at half ebb.

I had sent the two masters, each in a boat, to sound between this shoal

and the coast. On their return, they reported that there was a channel

in which they found six and seven fathoms water; but that it was narrow

and intricate. At low water we made an attempt to get a hawser round the

lost anchor, but did not succeed then. However, being determined not to

leave it behind me, as long as there was a probability of recovering it,

I persevered in my endeavours, and at last succeeded in the evening of

the 20th.

While we were thus employed, I ordered Captain Clerke to send his master

in a boat to look for a passage in the south-west quarter. He did so;

but no channel was to be found in that direction; nor did there appear

to be any way to get clear of these shoals, but to return by the track

which had brought us in. For, although by following the channel we were

in, we might probably have got farther down the coast, and though

possibly this channel might have led us at last to the north, clear of

the shoals, still the attempt would have been attended with vast risk;

and if we should not have succeeded, there would have been a

considerable loss of time that could ill be spared. These reasons

induced me to return by the way in which we came, and so get without the

shoals.

A number of lunar observations made by Mr.

King and myself, on this and the four preceding days,

and all reduced to the ship’s present station, gave

the longitude 197° 45ʹ 48ʺ

By the time-keeper it was 197 26 48

Our latitude was 59 37 30

Variation by the} } mean 22°

mean of three } A. M. 23° 34ʹ 3ʺ } 56ʹ 51ʺ

compasses, } P. M. 22 19 40 } east.

The northernmost part of the coast that we could see from this station I

judged to lie in the latitude of 60°. It seemed to form a low point,

which obtained the name of _Shoal Ness_.

The tide of flood sets to the north, and the ebb to the south. It rises

and falls, upon a perpendicular, five or six feet; and I reckon it to be

high water, on the full and change days, at eight o’clock.

Having weighed at three in the morning on the 21st, with a light breeze

at N. N. W., we steered back to the southward, having three boats ahead

to direct us. But, notwithstanding this precaution, we found more

difficulty in returning than we had in advancing; and at last were

obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which had only a depth

of five feet. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the country, each

in a canoe, came off to the ships, which they approached with great

caution; hollowing and opening their arms as they advanced. This we

understood was to express their pacific intentions. At length some

approached near enough to receive a few trifles that were thrown to

them: this encouraged the rest to venture along-side; and a traffic

presently commenced between them and our people, who got dresses of

skins, bows, arrows, darts, wooden vessels, &c.; our visitors taking in

exchange for these whatever was offered them. They seemed to be the same

sort of people that we had of late met with all along this coast; wore

the same kind of ornaments in their lips and noses; but were far more

dirty, and not so well clothed. They appeared to be wholly unacquainted

with people like us: they knew not the use of tobacco; nor was any

foreign article seen in their possession, unless a knife may be looked

upon as such. This, indeed, was only a piece of common iron fitted in a

wooden handle, so as to answer the purpose of a knife. They, however,

knew the value and use of this instrument so well, that it seemed to be

the only article they wished for. Most of them had their hair shaved, or

cut short off, leaving only a few locks behind, or on one side. For a

covering for the head they wore a hood of skins, and a bonnet which

appeared to be of wood. One part of their dress, which we got from them,

was a kind of girdle, very neatly made of skin, with trappings depending

from it, and passing between the legs, so as to conceal the adjoining

parts. By the use of such a girdle, it should seem that they sometimes

go naked, even in this high latitude; for they hardly wear it under

their other clothing.

The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we had lately seen;

only with this difference, that these were broader, and the hole in

which the man sits was wider than in any I had before met with. Our

boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them; so that they all

left us sooner than probably they would otherwise have done.

It was the 22d, in the evening, before we got clear of these shoals, and

then I durst not venture to steer to the westward in the night, but

spent it off Cape Newenham, and at day-break next morning steered to the

north-west, ordering the Discovery to lead. Before we had run two

leagues, our depth of water decreased to six fathoms. Fearing, if we

continued this course, that we should find less and less water, I hauled

to the southward, the wind being at east, a fresh breeze. This course

brought us gradually into eighteen fathoms; and having that depth I

ventured to steer a little westerly, and afterward west, when we at last

found twenty-six fathoms water.

On the 24th at noon we were, by observation, in the latitude of 58° 7ʹ,

and in the longitude of 194° 22ʹ. Three leagues to the westward of this

station we had twenty-eight fathoms water, and then steered west

north-west, the water gradually deepening to thirty-four fathoms. I

would have steered more northerly, but the wind having veered in that

direction, I could not.

The 25th in the evening, having a very thick fog, and but little wind,

we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms water. Our latitude was now 58° 29ʹ,

and our longitude 191-1/2° 37ʹ. At six the next morning the weather

clearing up a little, we weighed, and, with a small breeze at east,

steered north; our soundings being from twenty-eight to twenty-five

fathoms. After running nine leagues upon this course, the wind returned

back to the north, which obliged us to steer more westerly.

The weather continued, for the most part, foggy, till toward noon on the

28th, when we had a few hours clear sun-shine; during which we made

several lunar observations. The mean result of them, reduced to noon,

when the latitude was 59° 55ʹ, gave 190° 6ʹ longitude; and the

time-keeper gave 189° 59ʹ. The variation of the compass was 18° 40ʹ

east. Continuing our westerly course, the water having now deepened to

thirty-six fathoms, at four o’clock next morning we discovered land,

bearing north-west by west, six leagues distant. We stood toward it till

half past ten, when we tacked in twenty-four fathoms water; being at

this time a league from the land, which bore north north-west. It was

the south-east extremity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of

considerable height; on which account it was called _Point Upright_, and

lies in the latitude of 60° 17ʹ, and in the longitude of 187° 30ʹ. More

land was seen to the westward of the point; and, at a clear interval, we

saw another elevated portion of land in the direction of west by south;

and this seemed to be entirely separated from the other. Here we met

with an incredible number of birds, all as the hawk kind before

described.

We had baffling light winds all the afternoon, so that we made but

little progress; and the weather was not clear enough to enable us to

determine the extent of the land before us. We supposed it to be one of

the many islands laid down by Mr. Stæhlin in his map of the New Northern

Archipelago; and we expected every moment to see more of them.

At four in the afternoon of the 30th, Point Upright bore north-west by

north, six leagues distant. About this time a light breeze springing up

at north north-west, we stood to the north-east till four o’clock next

morning, when the wind veering to the eastward, we tacked and steered to

the north-west. Soon after the wind came to the south-east, and we

steered north-east by north; which course we continued, with soundings

from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, till next day at noon. At this time

we were in the latitude of 60° 58ʹ, and in the longitude of 191°. The

wind now veering to north-east, I first made a stretch of ten leagues to

the north-west; and then, seeing no land in that direction, I stood back

to the eastward about fifteen leagues, and met with nothing but pieces

of drift-wood. The soundings were from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms.

Variable light winds, with showers of rain, prevailed all the 2d; but

fixing in the south-east quarter, in the morning of the 3d, we resumed

our course to the northward. At noon we were, by observation, in the

latitude of 62° 34ʹ, our longitude was 192°; and our depth of water

sixteen fathoms.

Mr. Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a consumption for

more than twelve months, expired between three and four this afternoon.

He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his

own profession; and had acquired considerable knowledge of other

branches of science. The reader of this Journal will have observed how

useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the voyage; and had

it pleased God to have spared his life, the public, I make no doubt,

might have received from him such communications, on various parts of

the natural history of the several places we visited, as would have

abundantly shown that he was not unworthy of this commendation.[79] Soon

after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the westward, twelve

leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island; and, to perpetuate the

memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very great regard, I named it

_Anderson’s Island_. The next day, I removed Mr. Law, the surgeon of the

Discovery, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr. Samuel, the surgeon’s

first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of the Discovery.

On the 4th, at three in the afternoon, land was seen, extending from

north north-east to north-west. We stood on toward it till four o’clock,

when, being four or five miles from it, we tacked; and soon after, the

wind falling, we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a sandy

bottom; being about two leagues from the land, and, by our reckoning, in

the latitude of 64° 27ʹ, and in the longitude of 194° 18ʹ. At intervals,

we could see the coast extending from east to north-west, and a pretty

high island, bearing west by north, three leagues distant.

The land before us, which we supposed to be the continent of America,

appeared low next the sea; but, inland, it swelled into hills, which

rise, one behind another, to a considerable height. It had a greenish

hue, but seemed destitute of wood, and free from snow. While we lay at

anchor, we found that the flood-tide came from the east, and set to the

west, till between ten and eleven o’clock. From that time, till two the

next morning, the stream set to the eastward, and the water fell three

feet. The flood ran both stronger and longer than the ebb; from which I

concluded, that, besides the tide, there was a westerly current.

At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at south-west, we ran

down and anchored, between the island and the continent, in seven

fathoms water. Soon after, I landed upon the island, and, accompanied by

Mr. King, and some others of the officers, I hoped to have had from it a

view of the coast and sea to the westward; but the fog was so thick in

that direction, that the prospect was not more extensive than from the

ship. The coast of the continent seemed to take a turn to the northward,

at a low point named _Point Rodney_, which bore from the island

north-west half west, three or four leagues distant; but the high land,

which took a more northerly direction, was seen a great way farther.

This island, which was named _Sledge Island_, and lies in the latitude

of 64° 30ʹ, and in the longitude of 193° 57ʹ, is about four leagues in

circuit. The surface of the ground is composed chiefly of large loose

stones, that are, in many places, covered with moss and other

vegetables, of which there were above twenty or thirty different sorts,

and most of them in flower. But I saw neither shrub nor tree, either

upon the island, or on the continent. On a small low spot, near the

beach where we landed, was a good deal of wild purslain, pease,

long-wort, &c.; some of which we took on board for the pot. We saw one

fox; a few plovers, and some other small birds; and we met with some

decayed huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately been

on the island; and it is pretty clear, that they frequently visit it for

some purpose or other. We found, a little way from the shore where we

landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given to the island.

It seemed to be such a one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make use of to

convey goods from place to place, over the ice or snow. It was ten feet

long, twenty inches broad; and had a kind of rail-work on each side, and

was shod with bone. The construction of it was admirable, and all the

parts neatly put together; some with wooden-pins, but mostly with thongs

or lashings of whale-bone, which made me think it was entirely the

workmanship of the natives.

At three o’clock the next morning, we weighed, and proceeded to the

north-westward, with a light southerly breeze. We had an opportunity to

observe the sun’s meridian altitude for the latitude; and to get

altitude, both in the forenoon and afternoon, to obtain the longitude by

the time-keeper. As we had but little wind, and variable withal, we

advanced but slowly; and, at eight in the evening, finding the ships

settle fast toward the land into shoal water, I anchored in seven

fathoms, about two leagues from the coast. Sledge Island bore south, 51°

east, ten leagues distant; and was seen over the south point of the main

land.

Soon after we had anchored, the weather, which had been misty, clearing

up, we saw high land extending from north, 40° east, to north, 30° west,

apparently disjoined from the coast, under which we were at anchor, and

seemed to trend away north-east. At the same time, an island was seen

bearing north 81° west, eight or nine leagues distant. It appeared to

have no great extent, and was named _King’s Island_. We rode here till

eight o’clock next morning, when we weighed, and stood to the

north-west. The weather clearing up toward the evening, we got sight of

the north-west land, extending from north by west, to north-west by

north, distant about three leagues. We spent the night making short

boards, the weather being misty and rainy, with little wind; and between

four and five in the morning of the 8th, we had again a sight of the

north-west land; and, soon after, on account of a calm, and a current

driving us toward the shore, we found it necessary to anchor in twelve

fathoms water, about two miles from the coast. Over the western extreme

is an elevated peaked hill, situated in latitude 65° 36ʹ, and in

longitude 192° 18ʹ. A breeze at north-east springing up at eight

o’clock, we weighed, and stood to the south-east, in hopes of finding a

passage between the coast on which we had anchored on the 6th in the

evening, and this north-west land; but we soon got into seven fathoms

water, and discovered low land connecting the two coasts, and the high

land behind it.

Being now satisfied that the whole was a continued coast, I tacked, and

stood away for its north-west part, and came to an anchor under it in

seventeen fathoms water. The weather, at this time, was very thick with

rain; but, at four next morning, it cleared up, so that we could see the

land about us. A high steep rock or island bore west by south; another

island to the north of it, and much larger, bore west by north; the

peaked hill above mentioned, south east by east; and the point under it,

south, 32° east. Under this hill lies some low land, stretching out

toward the north-west, the extreme point of which, bore north-east by

east, about three miles distant. Over, and beyond it, some high land was

seen, supposed to be a continuation of the continent.

This point of land, which I named _Cape Prince of Wales_, is the more

remarkable, by being the western extremity of all America hitherto

known. It is situated in the latitude of 65° 46ʹ, and in the longitude

of 191° 45ʹ. The observations by which both were determined, though made

in sight of it, were liable to some small error, on account of the

haziness of the weather. We thought we saw some people upon the coast;

and probably we were not mistaken, as some elevations, like stages, and

others, like huts, were seen at the same place. We saw the same things

on the continent within Sledge Island, and on some other parts of the

coast.

It was calm till eight o’clock in the morning, when a faint breeze at

north springing up, we weighed; but we had scarcely got our sails set,

when it began to blow and rain very hard, with misty weather. The wind

and current, being in contrary directions, raised such a sea, that it

frequently broke into the ship. We had a few minutes’ sunshine at noon;

and from the observation then obtained, we fixed the above-mentioned

latitude.

Having plied to windward till two in the afternoon, with little effect,

I bore up for the island we had seen to the westward, proposing to come

to an anchor under it till the gale should cease. But on getting to this

land, we found it composed of two small islands, each not above three or

four leagues in circuit; and consequently they could afford us little

shelter. Instead of anchoring, therefore, we continued to stretch to the

westward; and at eight o’clock, land was seen in that direction,

extending from north north-west, to west by south, the nearest part six

leagues distant. I stood on till ten, and then made a board to the

eastward, in order to spend the night.

At day-break in the morning of the 10th, we resumed our course to the

west for the land we had seen the preceding evening. At eleven minutes

after seven, when the longitude, by the time-keeper, was 189° 24ʹ, it

extended from south, 72° west to north, 41° east. Between the south-west

extreme, and a point which bore west, two leagues distant, the shore

forms a large bay, in which we anchored at ten o’clock in the forenoon,

about two miles from the north shore, in ten fathoms water, over a

gravelly bottom. The south point of the bay bore south, 58° west; the

north point north, 43° east; the bottom of the bay north, 60° west, two

or three leagues distant; and the two islands we had passed the

preceding day, north, 72° east, distant fourteen leagues.

CHAP. IX.

BEHAVIOUR OF THE NATIVES, THE TSCHUTSKI, ON SEEING THE SHIPS.—INTERVIEW

WITH SOME OF THEM.—THEIR WEAPONS.—PERSONS.—ORNAMENTS.—CLOTHING.—WINTER

AND SUMMER HABITATIONS.—THE SHIPS CROSS THE STRAIT, TO THE COAST OF

AMERICA.—PROGRESS NORTHWARD.—CAPE MULGRAVE.—APPEARANCE OF FIELDS OF

ICE.—SITUATION OF ICY CAPE.—THE SEA BLOCKED UP WITH ICE.—SEA-HORSES

KILLED, AND USED AS PROVISIONS.—THESE ANIMALS DESCRIBED.—DIMENSIONS OF

ONE OF THEM.—CAPE LISBURNE.—FRUITLESS ATTEMPTS TO GET THROUGH THE ICE

AT A DISTANCE FROM THE COAST.—OBSERVATIONS ON THE FORMATION OF THIS

ICE.—ARRIVAL ON THE COAST OF ASIA.—CAPE NORTH.—THE PROSECUTION OF THE

VOYAGE DEFERRED TO THE ENSUING YEAR.

As we were standing into this bay, we perceived on the north shore a

village, and some people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have

thrown into confusion, or fear. We could plainly see persons running up

the country with burdens upon their backs. At these habitations, I

proposed to land; and accordingly went with three armed boats,

accompanied by some of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each

armed with a spontoon, a bow, and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising

ground close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down

toward the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps, and to

make us low bows. We returned the civility; but this did not inspire

them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing; for the moment

we put the boats ashore, they retired. I followed them alone, without

any thing in my hand; and by signs and gestures prevailed on them to

stop, and receive some trifling presents. In return for these, they gave

me two fox skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. I cannot say whether

they or I made the first present; for it appeared to me, that they had

brought down with them these things for this very purpose; and that they

would have given them to me, even though I had made no return.

They seemed very fearful and cautious; expressing their desire by signs,

that no more of our people should be permitted to come up. On my laying

my hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back several paces.

In proportion as I advanced, they retreated backward; always in the

attitude of being ready to make use of their spears; while those on the

rising ground stood ready to support them with their arrows. Insensibly,

myself, and two or three of my companions, got in amongst them. A few

beads distributed to those about us, soon created a kind of confidence;

so that they were not alarmed when a few more of our people joined us;

and, by degrees, a sort of traffic between us commenced. In exchange for

knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, they gave us some of their

clothing, and a few arrows. But nothing that we had to offer could

induce them to part with a spear, or a bow. These they held in constant

readiness, never once quitting them, except at one time, when four or

five persons laid theirs down, while they gave us a song and a dance.

And even then, they placed them in such a manner, that they could lay

hold of them in an instant; and for their security, they desired us to

sit down.

The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of them

had barbs; and some had a round blunt point. What use these may be

applied to I cannot say; unless it be to kill small animals, without

damaging the skin. The bows were such as we had seen on the American

coast, and like those used by the Esquimaux. The spears, or spontoons,

were of iron or steel, and of European or Asiatic workmanship; in which

no little pains had been taken to ornament them with carving, and

inlayings of brass and of a white metal. Those who stood ready with bows

and arrows in their hands, had a spear slung over their shoulder by a

leathern strap. A leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder,

contained arrows; and some of these quivers were extremely beautiful;

being made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other

ornaments.

Several other things, and in particular their clothing, shewed that they

were possessed of a degree of ingenuity, far surpassing what one could

expect to find amongst so northern a people. All the Americans we had

seen since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with

round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people we now were

amongst, far from resembling them, had long visages, and were stout and

well made. In short, they appeared to be a quite different nation. We

saw neither women nor children of either sex; nor any aged, except one

man, who was bald-headed; and he was the only one who carried no arms.

The others seemed to be picked men, and rather under than above the

middle age. The old man had a black mark across his face, which I did

not see in any others. All of them had their ears bored; and some had

glass beads hanging to them. These were the only fixed ornaments we saw

about them; for they wear none to their lips. This is another thing in

which they differ from the Americans we had lately seen.

Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair

of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins of

deer, dogs, seals, &c., and extremely well dressed; some with the hair

or fur on; but others without it. The caps were made to fit the head

very close; and besides these caps, which most of them wore, we got from

them some hoods, made of the skins of dogs, that were large enough to

cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be black; but their

heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close off; and none of them

wore any beard. Of the few articles which they got from us, knives and

tobacco were what they valued most.

We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter

habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, the floor of which is

sunk a little below the surface of the earth. One of them which I

examined, was of an oval form, about twenty feet long, and twelve or

more high. The framing was composed of wood, and the ribs of whales,

disposed in a judicious manner, and bound together with smaller

materials of the same sort. Over this framing is laid a covering of

strong coarse grass; and that again is covered with earth; so that, on

the outside, the house looks like a little hillock, supported by a wall

of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two sides,

and one end. At the other end the earth is raised sloping, to walk up to

the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof over that end.

The floor was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, in which I saw

nothing but water. And at the end of each house was a vaulted room,

which I took to be a store-room. These store-rooms communicated with the

house by a dark passage; and with the open air, by a hole in the roof,

which was even with the ground one walked upon; but they cannot be said

to be wholly underground; for one end reached to the edge of the hill,

along which they were made, and which was built up with stone. Over it

stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower, composed of the large bones of

large fish.

The summer huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a point

at the top. The framing was of slight poles and bones, covered with the

skins of sea-animals. I examined the inside of one. There was a

fire-place just within the door, where lay a few wooden vessels, all

very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and took up about

half the circuit. Some privacy seemed to be observed; for there were

several partitions made with skins. The bed and bedding were of

deer-skins; and most of them were dry and clean.

About the habitations were erected several stages, ten or twelve feet

high; such as we had observed on some parts of the American coast. They

were wholly composed of bones; and seemed intended for drying their fish

and skins, which were thus placed beyond the reach of their dogs, of

which they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, rather

large, and of different colours, with long soft hair like wool. They

are, probably, used in drawing their sledges in winter. For sledges they

have, as I saw a good many laid up in one of the winter huts. It is also

not improbable that dogs may constitute a part of their food. Several

lay dead that had been killed that morning.

The canoes of these people are of the same sort with those of the

northern Americans; some, both of the large and of the small ones, being

seen lying in a creek under the village.

By the large fish-bones, and of their sea-animals, it appeared that the

sea supplied them with the greatest part of their subsistence. The

country appeared to be exceedingly barren; yielding neither tree nor

shrub, that we could see. At some distance westward, we observed a ridge

of mountains covered with snow that had lately fallen.

At first we supposed this land to be a part of the island of Alaschka,

laid down in Mr. Stæhlin’s map, before mentioned. But from the figure of

the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, and from the

longitude, we soon began to think that it was, more probably, the

country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia, explored by

Beering in 1728. But to have admitted this, without farther examination,

I must have pronounced Mr. Stæhlin’s map, and his account of the new

Northern Archipelago, to be either exceeding erroneous, even in

latitude, or else to be a mere fiction; a judgment which I had no right

to pass upon a publication so respectably vouched, without producing the

clearest proofs.

After a stay of between two and three hours with these people, we

returned to our ships; and soon after, the wind veering to the south, we

weighed anchor, stood out of the bay, and steered to the north-east,

between the coast and the two islands. The next day, at noon, the former

extended from S. 80° W., to N. 84° W.; the latter bore 43° W.; and the

peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore S. 36° E.; with land

extending from it as far as S. 75° E. The latitude of the ship was 66°

5-1/4ʹ; the longitude 191° 19ʹ; our depth of water twenty-eight fathoms;

and our position nearly in the middle of the channel between the two

coasts, each being seven leagues distant.

From this station we steered east, in order to get nearer the American

coast. In this course the water shoaled gradually, and there being

little wind, and all our endeavours to increase our depth failing, I was

obliged at last to drop anchor in six fathoms; the only remedy we had

left to prevent the ships driving into less. The nearest part of the

western land bore W., twelve leagues distant; the peaked hill over Cape

Prince of Wales, S. 16° W.; and the northernmost part of the American

continent in sight E. S. E., the nearest part about four leagues

distant. After we had anchored, I sent a boat to sound, and the water

was found to shoal gradually toward the land. While we lay at anchor,

which was from six to nine in the evening, we found little or no

current; nor could we perceive that the water either rose or fell.

A breeze of wind springing up north, we weighed and stood to the

westward, which course soon brought us into deep water; and, during the

12th, we plied to the north, both coasts being in sight; but we kept

nearest to that of America.

At four in the afternoon of the 13th, a breeze springing up at south, I

steered N. E. by N., till four o’clock next morning, when, seeing no

land, we directed our course E. by N.; and between nine and ten, land,

supposed to be a continuation of the continent, appeared. It extended

from east by south to east by north; and, soon after, we saw more land,

bearing N. by E. Coming pretty suddenly into thirteen fathoms water, at

two in the afternoon we made a trip off till four, when we stood in

again for the land; which was seen, soon after, extending from north to

south-east; the nearest part three or four leagues distant. The coast

here forms a point, named _Point Mulgrave_, which lies in the latitude

of 67° 45ʹ; and in the longitude of 194° 51ʹ. The land appeared very low

next the sea; but, a little back, it rises into hills of a moderate

height. The whole was free from snow; and to appearance destitute of

wood. I now tacked, and bore away N. W. by W.; but soon after, thick

weather with rain coming on, and the wind increasing, I hauled more to

the west.

Next morning, at two o’clock, the wind veered to S. W. by S., and blew a

strong gale, which abated at noon; and the sun shining out, we found

ourselves, by observation, in the latitude of 68° 18ʹ. I now steered

N. E. till six o’clock the next morning, when I steered two points more

easterly. In this run we met with several sea-horses, and flights of

birds; some like land-larks, and others seen no bigger than

hedge-sparrows. Some shags were also seen; so that we judged ourselves

to be not far from the land. But as we had a thick fog, we could not

expect to see any; and as the wind blew strong, it was not prudent to

continue a course which was most likely to bring us to it. From the noon

of this day to six o’clock in the morning of the following, I steered E.

by N.; which course brought us into sixteen fathoms water. I now steered

N. E. by E., thinking by this course to deepen our water. But, in the

space of six leagues, it shoaled to eleven fathoms; which made me think

it proper to haul close to the wind, that now blew at west. Toward noon,

both sun and moon were seen clearly at intervals, and we got some flying

observations for the longitude; which, reduced to noon, when the

latitude was 70° 33ʹ, gave 197° 41ʹ. The time-keeper, for the same time,

gave 198°; and the variation was 35° 1ʹ 22ʺ E. We had afterward reason

to believe that the observed longitude was within a very few miles of

the truth.

Some time before noon we perceived a brightness in the northern horizon,

like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. It was little

noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable we should meet with

ice so soon. And yet the sharpness of the air, and gloominess of the

weather, for two or three days past, seemed to indicate some sudden

change. About an hour after, the sight of a large field of ice left us

no longer in doubt about the cause of the brightness of the horizon. At

half past two, we tacked, close to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two

fathoms water, being then in the latitude of 70° 41ʹ; not being able to

stand on any farther. For the ice was quite impenetrable, and extended

from west by south to east by north, as far as the eye could reach. Here

were abundance of sea-horses; some in the water, but far more upon the

ice. I had the thoughts of hoisting out the boats to kill some; but the

wind freshening, I gave up the design, and continued to ply to the

southward, or rather to the westward; for the wind came from that

quarter.

We gained nothing; for on the 18th at noon our latitude was 70° 44ʹ; and

we were near five leagues farther to the eastward. We were, at this

time, close to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a wall, and

seemed to be ten or twelve feet high at least. But farther north, it

appeared much higher. Its surface was extremely rugged, and here and

there we saw upon it pools of water.

We now stood to the southward, and, after running six leagues, shoaled

the water to seven fathoms; but it soon deepened to nine fathoms. At

this time the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, we saw

land extending from south to south-east by east, about three or four

miles distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much

encumbered with ice; for which reason it obtained the name of _Icy

Cape_. Its latitude is 79° 29ʹ, and its longitude 198° 20ʹ. The other

extreme of the land was lost in the horizon; so that there can be no

doubt of its being a continuation of the American continent. The

Discovery being about a mile astern, and to leeward, found less water

than we did, and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also, to

prevent separation.

Our situation was now more and more critical. We were in shoal water,

upon a lee shore; and the main body of the ice to windward, driving down

upon us. It was evident that if we remained much longer between it and

the land, it would force us ashore, unless it should happen to take the

ground before us. It seemed nearly to join the land to leeward; and the

only direction that was open was to the south-west. After making a short

board to the northward, I made the signal for the Discovery to tack, and

tacked myself at the same time. The wind proved rather favourable, so

that we lay up south-west, and south-west by west.

At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering back to west, I

tacked to the northward; and at noon the latitude was 70° 6ʹ, and the

longitude 196° 42ʹ. In this situation we had a good deal of drift-ice

about us; and the main ice was about two leagues to the north. At half

past one we got in with the edge of it. It was not so compact as that

which we had seen to the northward; but it was too close, and in too

large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. On the ice lay a

prodigious number of sea-horses; and as we were in want of fresh

provisions, the boats from each ship were sent to get some.

By seven o’clock in the evening, we had received on board the Resolution

nine of these animals, which, till now, we had supposed to be sea-cows,

so that we were not a little disappointed, especially some of the

seamen, who, for the novelty of the thing, had been feasting their eyes

for some days past. Nor would they have been disappointed now, nor have

known the difference, if we had not happened to have one or two on

board, who had been in Greenland, and declared what animals these were,

and that no one ever ate of them. But notwithstanding this, we lived

upon them as long as they lasted; and there were few on board who did

not prefer them to our salt meat.

The fat at first is as sweet as marrow; but in a few days it grows

rancid, unless it be salted, in which state it will keep much longer.

The lean flesh is coarse, black, and has rather a strong taste, and the

heart is nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat when melted

yields a good deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps, and their

hides, which are very thick, were very useful about our rigging. The

teeth, or tusks, of most of them were at this time very small, even some

of the largest and oldest of these animals had them not exceeding six

inches in length. From this we concluded that they had lately shed their

old teeth.

They lie in herds of many hundreds upon the ice, huddling one over the

other like swine, and roar or bray very loud; so that in the night, or

in foggy weather, they gave us notice of the vicinity of the ice, before

we could see it. We never found the whole herd asleep, some being always

upon the watch. These, on the approach of the boat, would wake those

next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole

herd would be awake presently. But they were seldom in a hurry to get

away, till after they had been once fired at. Then they would tumble one

over the other into the sea, in the utmost confusion. And if we did not,

at the first discharge, kill those we fired at, we generally lost them,

though mortally wounded. They did not appear to us to be that dangerous

animal some authors have described, not even when attacked. They are

rather more so to appearance than in reality. Vast numbers of them would

follow, and come close up to the boats; but the flash of a musket in the

pan, or even the bare pointing of one at them, would send them down in

an instant. The female will defend the young one to the very last, and

at the expence of her own life, whether in the water or upon the ice.

Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she be dead, so that, if you

kill one, you are sure of the other. The dam, when in the water, holds

the young one between her fore-fins.

Mr. Pennant, in his _Synopsis Quadr._, p. 335[80], has given a very good

description of this animal, under the name of _Arctic Walrus_; but I

have no where seen a good drawing of one. Why they should be called

sea-horses, is hard to say, unless the word be a corruption of the

Russian name, _Morse_; for they have not the least resemblance of a

horse. This is, without doubt, the same animal that is found in the

Gulph of St. Lawrence, and there called sea-cow. It is certainly more

like a cow than a horse, but this likeness consists in nothing but the

snout. In short, it is an animal like a seal, but incomparably larger.

The dimensions and weight of one which was none of the largest, were as

follow:

Feet. Inches.

Length from the snout to the tail 9 4

Length of the neck, from the snout to } 2 6

the shoulder-bone }

Height of the shoulder 5 0

Length of the fins { Fore 2 4

{ Hind 2 6

Breadth of the fins { Fore 1 2-1/2

{ Hind 2 0

Snout { Breadth 0 5-1/2

{ Depth 1 3

Circumference of the neck close to the ears 2 7

Circumference of the body at the shoulder 7 10

Circumference near the hind fins 5 6

From the snout to the eyes 0 7

Weight of the carcase, without } 854 lb.

the head, skin, or entrails }

Head 41-1/2

Skin 205

I could not find out what these animals feed upon. There was nothing in

the maws of those we killed.

It is worth observing, that, for some days before this date, we had

frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the southward. They were of

two sorts, the one much larger than the other. The largest were of a

brown colour; and, of the small sort, either the duck or drake was black

and white, and the other brown. Some said they saw geese also. Does not

this indicate that there must be land to the north, where these birds

find shelter, in the proper season, to breed, and from whence they were

now returning to a warmer climate?

By the time we had got our sea-horses on board, we were, in a manner,

surrounded with the ice; and had no way left to clear it, but by

standing to the southward, which was done till three o’clock next

morning, with a gentle breeze westerly, and, for the most part, thick,

foggy, weather. The soundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We

then tacked and stood to the N. till ten o’clock, when the wind veering

to the northward, we directed our course to the W. S. W. and W. At two

in the afternoon, we fell in with the main ice, along the edge of which

we kept, being partly directed by the roaring of the sea-horses; for we

had a very thick fog. Thus we continued sailing till near midnight, when

we got in amongst the loose ice, and heard the surge of the sea upon the

main ice.