Such was the account we received. I have more than once remarked, how

very imperfectly these people recollect the exact dates of past events.

And with regard to this war, though it happened not many years ago, we

could only guess at the time of its commencement and its conclusion,

from collateral circumstances, furnished by our own observation, as the

natives could not satisfy our inquiries with any precision. The final

conquest of Ulietea, which closed the war, we know, had been made before

I was there in the Endeavour, in 1769; but we may infer, that peace had

not been very long restored, as we could see marks of recent

hostilities[15] having been committed upon that island. Some additional

light may be thrown upon this inquiry, by attending to the age of

Teereetareea, the present chief of Huaheine. His looks showed, that he

was not above ten or twelve years old; and we were informed, that his

father had been killed at one of the battles. As to the time when the

war began, we had no better rule for judging, than this, that the young

people of about twenty years of age, of whom we made inquiries, could

scarcely remember the first battles; and I have already mentioned, that

Omai’s countrymen, whom we found at Wateeoo, knew nothing of this war;

so that its commencement was subsequent to their voyage.

Ever since the conquest of Ulietea and Otaha, the Bolabola men have been

considered by their neighbours as invincible; and such is the extent of

their fame, that even at Otaheite, which is almost out of their reach,

if they are not dreaded, they are at least respected for their valour.

It is said, that they never fly in battle, and that they always beat an

equal number of the other islanders. But, besides these advantages,

their neighbours seem to ascribe a great deal to the superiority of

their god, who, they believed, detained us at Ulietea by contrary winds,

as being unwilling that we should visit an island under his special

protection.

How high the Bolabola men are now in estimation at Otaheite, may be

inferred from Monsieur de Bougainville’s anchor having been conveyed to

them. To the same cause we must ascribe the intention of transporting to

their island the Spanish bull. And they had already got possession of a

third European curiosity, the male of another animal, brought to

Otaheite by the Spaniards. We had been much puzzled, by the imperfect

description of the natives, to guess what this could be. But Captain

Clerke’s deserters, when brought back from Bolabola, told me, that the

animal had been there shown to them, and that it was a ram. It seldom

happens but that some good arises out of evil; and if our two men had

not deserted, I should not have known this. In consequence of their

information, at the same time that I landed to meet Opoony, I carried

ashore a ewe, which we had brought from the Cape of Good Hope; and I

hope that, by this present, I have laid the foundation for a breed of

sheep at Bolabola. I also left at Ulietea, under the care of Oreo, an

English boar and sow, and two goats. So that, not only Otaheite, but all

the neighbouring islands will, in a few years, have their race of hogs

considerably improved; and, probably, be stocked with all the valuable

animals which have been transported hither by their European visitors.

When once this comes to pass, no part of the world will equal these

islands in variety and abundance of refreshments for navigators. Indeed,

even in their present state, I know no place that excels them. After

repeated trials, in the course of several voyages, we find, when they

are not disturbed by intestine broils, but live in amity with one

another, which has been the case for some years past, that their

productions are in the greatest plenty; and, particularly, the most

valuable of all the articles, their hogs.

If we had had a larger assortment of goods, and a sufficient quantity of

salt on board, I make no doubt that we might have salted as much pork as

would have served both ships near twelve months. But our visiting the

Friendly Islands, and our long stay at Otaheite and the neighbourhood,

quite exhausted our trading commodities; particularly our axes, with

which alone hogs, in general, were to be purchased. And we had hardly

salt enough to cure fifteen puncheons of meat. Of these, five were added

to our stock of provisions at the Friendly Islands, and the other ten at

Otaheite. Captain Clerke also salted a proportionable quantity for his

ship.

The process was the same that had been adopted by me in my last voyage;

and it may be worth while to describe it again. The hogs were killed in

the evening; as soon as they were cleaned, they were cut up, the bones

taken out, and the meat salted when it was hot. It was then laid in such

a position as to permit the juices to drain from it, till the next

morning, when it was again salted, packed into a cask, and covered with

pickle. Here it remained for four or five days, or a week; after which

it was taken out and examined, piece by piece, and if there was any

found to be in the least tainted, as sometimes happened, it was

separated from the rest, which was repacked into another cask, headed

up, and filled with good pickle. In about eight or ten days’ time, it

underwent a second examination; but this seemed unnecessary, as the

whole was generally found to be perfectly cured. A mixture of bay and of

white salt, answers the best; but either of them will do alone. Great

care should be taken, that none of the large blood vessels remain in the

meat; nor must too great a quantity be packed together at the first

salting, lest the pieces in the middle should heat, and by that means

prevent the salt from penetrating them. This once happened to us, when

we killed a larger quantity than usual. Rainy, sultry weather, is

unfavourable for salting meat in tropical climates.

Perhaps, the frequent visits Europeans have lately made to these

islanders, may be one great inducement to their keeping a large stock of

hogs, as they have had experience enough to know, that, whenever we

come, they may be sure of getting from us what they esteem a valuable

consideration for them. At Otaheite, they expect the return of the

Spaniards every day; and they will look for the English, two or three

years hence, not only there, but at the other islands. It is to no

purpose to tell them, that you will not return. They think you must;

though not of them knows, or will give himself the trouble to inquire

the reason of your coming.

I own, I cannot avoid expressing it as my real opinion, that it would

have been far better for these poor people, never to have known our

superiority in the accommodations and arts that make life comfortable,

than, after once knowing it, to be again left and abandoned to their

original incapacity of improvement. Indeed, they cannot be restored to

that happy mediocrity in which they lived before we discovered them, if

the intercourse between us should be discontinued. It seems to me, that

it has become, in a manner, incumbent on the Europeans to visit them

once in three or four years, in order to supply them with those

conveniencies which we have introduced among them, and have given them a

predilection for. The want of such occasional supplies will, probably,

be very heavily felt by them, when it may be too late to go back to

their old less perfect contrivances, which they now despise, and have

discontinued, since the introduction of ours. For, by the time that the

iron tools, of which they are now possessed, are worn out, they will

have almost lost the knowledge of their own. A stone hatchet is, at

present, as rare a thing amongst them, as an iron one was eight years

ago; and a chissel of bone, or stone, is not to be seen. Spike-nails

have supplied the place of the last; and they are weak enough to fancy,

that they have got an inexhaustible store of them; for these were not

now at all sought after. Sometimes, however, nails, much smaller than a

spike, would still be taken in exchange for fruit. Knives happened, at

present, to be in great esteem at Ulietea; and axes and hatchets

remained unrivalled by any other of our commodities at all the islands.

With respect to articles of mere ornament, these people are as

changeable as any of the polished nations of Europe; so that what

pleases their fancy, while a fashion is in vogue, may be rejected, when

another whim has supplanted it. But our iron tools are so strikingly

useful, that they will, we may confidently pronounce, continue to prize

them highly; and be completely miserable, if, neither possessing the

materials, nor trained up to the art of fabricating them, they should

cease to receive supplies of what may now be considered as having become

necessary to their comfortable existence.

Otaheite, though not comprehended in the number of what we have called

the Society Islands, being inhabited by the same race of men, agreeing

in the same leading features of character and manners, it was fortunate

that we happened to discover this principal island before the others, as

the friendly and hospitable reception we there met with, of course, led

us to make it the principal place of resort, in our successive visits to

this part of the Pacific Ocean. By the frequency of this intercourse, we

have had better opportunities of knowing something about it and its

inhabitants, than about the other similar, but less considerable islands

in its vicinity. Of these, however, we have seen enough to satisfy us,

that all that we observed and have related of Otaheite, may, with

trifling variations, be applied to them.

Too much seems to have been already known, and published in our former

relations, about some of the modes of life that made Otaheite so

agreeable an abode to many on board our ships; and if I could add any

finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines of which have been already

drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still have hesitated to make

this journal the place for exhibiting a view of licentious manners,

which could only serve to disgust those for whose information I write.

There are, however, many parts of the domestic, political, and religious

institutions of these people, which, after all our visits to them, are

but imperfectly understood. The foregoing narrative of the incidents

that happened during our stay, will probably be thought to throw some

additional light; and, for farther satisfaction, I refer to Mr.

Anderson’s remarks.

Amidst our various subordinate employments, while at these islands, the

great objects of our duty were always attended to. No opportunity was

lost of making astronomical and nautical observations; from which the

following table was drawn up:

Place. Latitude. Longitude. Variation of Dip of the

South. East. the Compass. Needle.

Matavai Point, 17° 29-1/4ʹ 210° 22ʹ 28ʺ 5° 34ʹ East 29° 12ʹ

Otaheite

Owharree Harbour, 16 42-3/4 208 52 24 5 13-1/2 28 28

Huaheine East

Ohamaneno Harbour, 16 45-1/2 208 25 22 6 19 East 29 5

Ulietea

The longitude of the three several places is deduced from the mean of

145 sets of observations made on shore; some at one place, and some at

another; and carried on to each of the stations by the time-keeper. As

the situation of these places was very accurately settled during my

former voyages, the above observations were now made chiefly with a view

of determining how far a number of lunar observations might be depended

upon, and how near they would agree with those made upon the same spot

in 1769, which fixed Matavai Point to be 201° 27ʹ 30ʺ. The difference,

it appears, is only of 5ʹ 2ʺ; and, perhaps, no other method could have

produced a more perfect agreement. Without pretending to say which of

the two computations is the nearest the truth, the longitude of 210° 22ʹ

28ʺ, or, which is the same thing, 208° 25ʹ 22ʺ, will be the longitude we

shall reckon from with the time-keeper, allowing it to be losing, on

mean time, 1.ʺ69 each day, as found by the mean of all the observations

made at these islands for that purpose.

On our arrival at Otaheite, the error of the time-keeper in longitude

was,

by { Greenwich rate, 1° 18ʹ 58ʺ

{ Tongataboo rate, 0° 16ʹ 40ʺ

Some observations were also made on the tide; particularly at Otaheite

and Ulietea; with a view of ascertaining its greatest rise at the first

place. When we were there, in my second voyage, Mr. Wales thought he had

discovered that it rose higher than I had observed it to do, when I

first visited Otaheite in 1769. But the observations we now made, proved

that it did not; that is, that it never rose higher than twelve or

fourteen inches at most. And it was observed to be high-water nearly at

noon, as well at the quadratures, as at the full and change of the moon.

To verify this, the following observations were made at Ulietea:

Day of Mean time Perpendicular

the Water at stand, of rise.

Month. from to High Water. Inches.

No. 6. 11^h 15^m 12^h 20^m 11^h 48^m 5, 5

7. 11 40 1 00 12 20 5, 2

8. 11 35 12 50 12 12 5, 0

9. 11 40 1 16 12 28 5, 5

10. 11 25 1 10 12 18 6, 5

11. 12 00 1 40 12 20 5, 0

12. 11 00 1 05 12 02 5, 7

13. 9 30 11 40 10 35 8, 0

14. 11 10 12 50 12 00 8, 0

15. 9 20 11 30 10 25 9, 2

16. 10 00 12 00 11 00 9, 0

17. 10 45 12 15 10 30 8, 5

18. 10 25 12 10 11 18 9, 0

19. 11 00 1 00 12 00 8, 0

20. 11 30 2 00 12 45 7, 0

21. 11 00 1 00 12 00 8, 0

22. 11 30 1 07 12 18 8, 0

23. 12 00 1 30 12 45 6, 5

24. 11 30 1 40 12 35 5, 5

25. 11 40 1 50 12 45 4, 7

26. 11 00 1 30 12 15 5, 2

Having now finished all that occurs to me, with regard to these islands,

which make so conspicuous a figure in the list of our discoveries, the

reader will permit me to suspend the prosecution of my Journal, while he

pursues the following chapter, for which I am indebted to Mr. Anderson.

CHAP. IX.

ACCOUNTS OF OTAHEITE STILL IMPERFECT.—THE PREVAILING WINDS.—BEAUTY OF

THE COUNTRY.—CULTIVATION.—NATURAL CURIOSITIES.—THE PERSONS OF THE

NATIVES.—DISEASES.—GENERAL CHARACTER.—LOVE OF PLEASURE.—LANGUAGE.—

SURGERY AND PHYSIC.—ARTICLES OF FOOD.—EFFECTS OF DRINKING AVA.—TIMES

AND MANNER OF EATING.—CONNECTIONS WITH THE FEMALES.—CIRCUMCISION.—

SYSTEM OF RELIGION.—NOTIONS ABOUT THE SOUL AND A FUTURE LIFE.—VARIOUS

SUPERSTITIONS.—TRADITIONS ABOUT THE CREATION.—AN HISTORICAL LEGEND.—

HONOURS PAID TO THE KING.—DISTINCTION OF RANKS.—PUNISHMENT OF CRIMES.—

PECULIARITIES OF THE NEIGHBOURING ISLANDS.—NAMES OF THEIR GODS.—NAMES

OF ISLANDS THEY VISIT.—EXTENT OF THEIR NAVIGATION.

To what has been said of Otaheite, in the accounts of the successive

voyages of Captain Wallis, Monsieur de Bougainville, and Captain Cook,

it would at first sight, seem superfluous to add any thing; as it might

be supposed, that little could be now produced, but a repetition of what

has been told before. I am, however, far from being of that opinion; and

will venture to affirm, though a very accurate description of the

country, and of the most obvious customs of its inhabitants, has been

already given, especially by Captain Cook, that much still remains

untouched; that, in some instances, mistakes have been made, which later

and repeated observation has been able to rectify; and that, even now,

we are strangers to many of the most important institutions that prevail

amongst these people. The truth is, our visits, though frequent, have

been but transient; many of us had no inclination to make inquiries;

more of us were unable to direct our inquiries properly; and we all

laboured, though not to the same degree, under the disadvantages

attending an imperfect knowledge of the language of those from whom

alone we could receive any information. The Spaniards had it more in

their power to surmount this bar to instruction; some of them having

resided at Otaheite much longer than any other European visitors. As,

with their superior advantages, they could not but have had an

opportunity of obtaining the fullest information on most subjects

relating to this island, their account of it would, probably, convey

more authentic and accurate intelligence than, with our best endeavours,

any of us could possibly obtain. But as I look upon it to be very

uncertain, if not very unlikely, that we shall ever have any

communication from that quarter, I have here put together what

additional intelligence about Otaheite and its neighbouring islands I

was able to procure, either from Omai while on board the ship, or by

conversing with the other natives while we remained amongst them.

The wind, for the greatest part of the year, blows from between east

south-east, and east north-east. This is the true trade wind, or what

the natives call _Maaraee_; and it sometimes blows with considerable

force. When this is the case, the weather is often cloudy, with showers

of rain; but when the wind is more moderate, it is clear, settled, and

serene. If the wind should veer farther to the southward, and become

south-east, or south south-east, it then blows more gently, with a

smooth sea, and is called _Maoai_. In those months, when the sun is

nearly vertical, that is, in December and January, the winds and weather

are both very variable; but it frequently blows from west north-west, or

north-west. This wind is what they call _Toerou_; and is generally

attended by dark, cloudy weather, and frequently by rain. It sometimes

blows strong, though generally moderate; but seldom lasts longer than

five or six days without interruption; and is the only wind in which the

people of the islands to leeward come to this, in their canoes. If it

happens to be still more northerly, it blows with less strength, and has

the different appellation of _Erapotaia_; which they feign to be the

wife of the _Toerou_; who, according to their mythology, is a male.

The wind from south-west, and west south-west, is still more frequent

than the former; and though it is, in general, gentle, and interrupted

by calms, or breezes from the eastward, yet it sometimes blows in brisk

squalls. The weather attending it is commonly dark, cloudy, and rainy,

with a close, hot air; and often accompanied by a great deal of

lightning and thunder. It is called _Etoa_, and often succeeds the

_Toerou_; as does also the _Farooa_, which is still more southerly, and,

from its violence, blows down houses and trees, especially the

cocoa-palms, from their loftiness; but it is only of short duration.

The natives seem not to have a very accurate knowledge of these changes,

and yet pretend to have drawn some general conclusions from their

effects; for they say when the sea has a hollow sound, and dashes slowly

on the shore, or rather on the reef without, that it portends good

weather; but, if it has a sharp sound, and the waves succeed each other

fast, that the reverse will happen.

Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that affords a more

luxuriant prospect than the south-east part of Otaheite. The hills are

high and steep; and, in many places, craggy. But they are covered to the

very summits with trees and shrubs, in such a manner, that the spectator

can scarcely help thinking that the very rocks possess the property of

producing and supporting their verdant clothing. The flat land which

bounds those hills toward the sea, and the interjacent valleys, also

teem with various productions that grow with the most exuberant vigour;

and at once fill the mind of the beholder with the idea that no place

upon earth can outdo this in the strength and beauty of vegetation.

Nature has been no less liberal in distributing rivulets, which are

found in every valley; and as they approach the sea, often divide into

two or three branches, fertilizing the flat lands through which they

run. The habitations of the natives are scattered, without order, upon

the flats; and many of them appearing toward the shore, presented a

delightful scene, viewed from our ships; especially as the sea, within

the reef, which bounds the coast, is perfectly still, and affords a safe

navigation at all times for the inhabitants, who are often seen paddling

in their canoes indolently along, in passing from place to place, or in

going to fish. On viewing these charming scenes, I have often regretted

my inability to transmit to those who have had no opportunity of seeing

them, such a description as might, in some measure, convey an impression

similar to what must be felt by every one who has been fortunate enough

to be upon the spot.

It is, doubtless, the natural fertility of the country, combined with

the mildness and serenity of the climate, that renders the natives so

careless in their cultivation, that, in many places, though overflowing

with the richest productions, the smallest traces of it cannot be

observed. The cloth plant, which is raised by seeds brought from the

mountains, and the _ava_, or intoxicating pepper, which they defend from

the sun when very young, by covering them with leaves of the

bread-fruit-tree, are almost the only things to which they seem to pay

any attention; and these they keep very clean.

I have inquired very carefully into their manner of cultivating the

bread-fruit-tree; but was always answered, that they never planted it.

This, indeed, must be evident to every one who will examine the places

where the young trees come up. It will be always observed, that they

spring from the roots of the old ones, which run along near the surface

of the ground. So that the bread-fruit-trees may be reckoned those that

would naturally cover the plains, even supposing that the island was not

inhabited; in the same manner that the white-barked trees, found at Van

Diemen’s Land, constitute the forests there. And from this we may

observe, that the inhabitant of Otaheite, instead of being obliged to

plant his bread, will rather be under a necessity of preventing its

progress; which I suppose is sometimes done, to give room for trees of

another sort, to afford him some variety in his food.

The chief of these are the cocoa-nut and plantain; the first of which

can give no trouble, after it has raised itself a foot or two above the

ground; but the plantain requires a little more care. For, after it is

planted, it shoots up, and, in about three months, begins to bear fruit;

during which time it gives young shoots, which supply a succession of

fruit. For the old stocks are cut down, as the fruit is taken off.

The products of the island, however, are not so remarkable for their

variety, as great abundance; and curiosities of any kind are not

numerous. Amongst these we may reckon a pond or lake of fresh water, at

the top of one of the highest mountains, to go to and to return from

which takes three or four days. It is remarkable for its depth, and has

eels of an enormous size in it; which are sometimes caught by the

natives, who go upon this water in little floats of two or three wild

plantain-trees fastened together. This is esteemed one of the greatest

natural curiosities of the country; insomuch, that travellers, who come

from the other islands, are commonly asked, amongst the first things, by

their friends, at their return, if they have seen it. There is also a

sort of water, of which there is only one small pond upon the island, as

far distant as the lake, and to appearance very good, with a yellow

sediment at the bottom; but it has a bad taste, and proves fatal to

those who drink any quantity; or makes them break out in blotches, if

they bathe in it.

Nothing could make a stronger impression at first sight on our arrival

here, than the remarkable contrast between the robust make and dark

colour of the people of Tongataboo, and a sort of delicacy and whiteness

which distinguish the inhabitants of Otaheite. It was even some time

before that difference could preponderate in favour of the Otaheitans;

and then only, perhaps, because we became accustomed to them, the marks

which had recommended the others began to be forgotten. Their women,

however, struck us as superior in every respect; and as possessing all

those delicate characteristics which distinguish them from the other sex

in many countries. The beard, which the men here wear long, and the

hair, which is not cut so short as in the fashion at Tongataboo, made

also a great difference; and we could not help thinking, that, on every

occasion, they shewed a greater degree of timidity and fickleness. The

muscular appearance, so common amongst the Friendly Islanders, and which

seems a consequence of their being accustomed to much action, is lost

here, where the superior fertility of their country enables the

inhabitants to lead a more indolent life; and its place is supplied by a

plumpness and smoothness of the skin; which, though perhaps more

consonant with our ideas of beauty, is no real advantage; as it seems

attended with a kind of languor in all their motions, not observable in

the others. This observation is fully verified in their boxing and

wrestling, which may be called little better than the feeble efforts of

children, if compared to the vigour with which these exercises are

performed at the Friendly Islands.

Personal endowments being in great esteem amongst them, they have

recourse to several methods of improving them, according to their

notions of beauty. In particular, it is a practice, especially amongst

the _Erreoes_, or unmarried men of some consequence, to undergo a kind

of physical operation to render them fair. This is done by remaining a

month or two in the house; during which time they wear a great quantity

of clothes, eat nothing but bread-fruit, to which they ascribe a

remarkable property in whitening them. They also speak as if their

corpulence and colour, at other times, depended upon their food; as they

are obliged, from the change of seasons, to use different sorts at

different times.

Their common diet is made up of at least nine-tenths of vegetable food;

and, I believe, more particularly, the _mahee_, or fermented

bread-fruit, which enters almost every meal, has a remarkable effect

upon them, preventing a costive habit, and producing a very sensible

coolness about them, which could not be perceived in us who fed on

animal food. And it is, perhaps, owing to this temperate course of life

that they have so few diseases among them.

They only reckon five or six, which might be called chronic, or national

disorders; amongst which are the dropsy, and the _fefai_, or indolent

swellings before mentioned, as frequent at Tongataboo. But this was

before the arrival of the Europeans; for we have added to this short

catalogue a disease which abundantly supplies the place of all others;

and is now almost universal. For this they seem to have no effectual

remedy. The priests, indeed, sometimes give them a medley of simples;

but they own that it never cures them. And yet they allow that, in a few

cases, nature, without the assistance of a physician, exterminates the

poison of this fatal disease, and a perfect recovery is produced. They

say, that if a man is infected with it, he will often communicate it to

others in the same house, by feeding out of the same utensils, or

handling them; and that in this case, they frequently die, while he

recovers; though we see no reason why this should happen.

Their behaviour, on all occasions, seems to indicate a great openness

and generosity of disposition. Omai, indeed, who, as their countryman,

should be supposed rather willing to conceal any of their defects, has

often said, that they are sometimes cruel in punishing their enemies.

According to his representation, they torment them very deliberately; at

one time tearing out small pieces of flesh from different parts; at

another, taking out the eyes; then cutting off the nose; and, lastly,

killing them by opening the belly. But this only happens on particular

occasions. If cheerfulness argues a conscious innocence, one would

suppose that their life is seldom sullied by crimes. This, however, I

rather impute to their feelings, which, though lively, seem in no case

permanent; for I never saw them, in any misfortune, labour under the

appearance of anxiety after the critical moment was past. Neither does

care ever seem to wrinkle their brow. On the contrary, even the approach

of death does not appear to alter their usual vivacity. I have seen

them, when brought to the brink of the grave by disease, and when

preparing to go to battle; but, in neither case, ever observed their

countenances overclouded with melancholy or serious reflection.

Such a disposition leads them to direct all their aims only to what can

give them pleasure and ease. Their amusements all tend to excite and

continue their amorous passions; and their songs, of which they are

immoderately fond, answer the same purpose. But as a constant succession

of sensual enjoyments must cloy, we found that they frequently varied

them to more refined subjects, and had much pleasure in chanting their

triumphs in war, and their occupations in peace; their travels to other

islands, and adventures there; and the peculiar beauties, and superior

advantages of their own island over the rest, or of different parts of

it over other less favourable districts. This marks that they receive

great delight from music; and though they rather expressed a dislike to

our complicated compositions, yet were they always delighted with the

more melodious sounds produced singly on our instruments, as approaching

nearer to the simplicity of their own.

Neither are they strangers to the soothing effects produced by

particular sorts of motion; which, in some cases, seem to allay any

perturbation of mind with as much success as music. Of this, I met with

a remarkable instance. For on walking one day about Matavai Point, where

our tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in a small canoe, so

quickly, and looking about him with such eagerness on each side, as to

command all my attention. At first I imagined he had stolen something

from one of the ships, and was pursued; but, on waiting patiently, saw

him repeat his amusement. He went out from the shore, till he was near

the place where the swell begins to take its rise; and, watching its

first motion very attentively, paddled before it with great quickness,

till he found that it overlooked him, and had acquired sufficient force

to carry his canoe before it, without passing underneath. He then sat

motionless, and was carried along, at the same swift rate as the wave,

till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his

canoe, and went in search of another swell. I could not help concluding

that this man felt the most supreme pleasure, while he was driven on so

fast and so smoothly by the sea; especially as, though the tents and

ships were so near, he did not seem in the least to envy, or even to

take any notice of, the crowds of his countrymen collected to view them

as objects which were rare and curious. During my stay, two or three of

the natives came up, who seemed to share his felicity, and always called

out when there was an appearance of a favourable swell, as he sometimes

missed it, by his back being turned, and looking about for it. By them I

understood that this exercise, which is called _choroee_, was frequent

amongst them; and they have probably more amusements of this sort, which

afford them at least as much pleasure as skaiting, which is the only one

of ours, with whose effects I could compare it.

The language of Otaheite, though doubtless radically the same with that

of New Zealand and the Friendly Islands, is destitute of that guttural

pronunciation, and of some consonants, with which those latter dialects

abound. The specimens we have already given, are sufficient to mark

wherein the variation chiefly consists, and to show that, like the

manners of the inhabitants, it has become soft and soothing. During the

former voyage, I had collected a copious vocabulary, which enabled me

the better to compare this dialect with that of the other islands; and,

during this voyage, I took every opportunity of improving my

acquaintance with it, by conversing with Omai before we arrived, and by

my daily intercourse with the natives while we now remained there.[16]

It abounds with beautiful and figurative expressions, which, were it

perfectly known, would, I have no doubt, put it upon a level with many

of the languages that are most in esteem for their warmth and bold

images. For instance, the Otaheitans express their notions of death very

emphatically, by saying, “That the soul goes into darkness; or rather

into night.” And, if you seem to entertain any doubt, in asking the

question, “if such a person is their mother,” they immediately reply

with surprize, “Yes; the mother that bore me.” They have one expression

that corresponds exactly with the phraseology of the scriptures, where

we read of the “yearning of the bowels.” They use it on all occasions,

when the passions give them uneasiness; as they constantly refer pain

from grief, anxious desire, and other affections, to the bowels, as its

seat; where they likewise suppose all operations of the mind are

performed. Their language admits of that inverted arrangement of words

which so much distinguishes the Latin and Greek from most of our modern

European tongues, whose imperfections require a more orderly

construction, to prevent ambiguities. It is so copious, that for the

bread-fruit alone, in its different states, they have above twenty

names; as many for the _taro_ root; and about ten for the cocoa-nut. Add

to this, that, besides the common dialect, they often expostulate, in a

kind of stanza or recitative, which is answered in the same manner.

Their arts are few and simple; yet, if we may credit them, they perform

cures in surgery which our extensive knowledge in that branch has not,

as yet, enabled us to imitate. In simple fractures, they bind them up

with splints; but if part of the substance of the bone be lost, they

insert a piece of wood between the fractured ends, made hollow like the

deficient part. In five or six days, the _rapaoo_, or surgeon, inspects

the wound, and finds the wood partly covered with the growing flesh. In

as many more days, it is generally entirely covered; after which, when

the patient has acquired some strength, he bathes in the water, and

recovers. We know that wounds will heal over leaden bullets; and

sometimes, though rarely, over other extraneous bodies. But what makes

me entertain some doubt of the truth of so extraordinary skill, as in

the above instance, is, that in other cases which fell under my own

observation, they are far from being so dexterous. I have seen the stump

of an arm, which was taken off after being shattered by a fall from a

tree, that bore no marks of skilful operation, though some allowance be

made for their defective instruments. And I met with a man going about

with a dislocated shoulder, some months after the accident, from their

being ignorant of a method to reduce it; though this be considered as

one of the simplest operations of our surgery. They know that fractures

or luxations of the spine are mortal, but not fractures of the skull;

and they likewise know, from experience, in what parts of the body

wounds prove fatal. They have sometimes pointed out those inflicted by

spears, which, if made in the direction they mentioned, would certainly

have been pronounced deadly by us; and yet these people have recovered.

Their physical knowledge seems more confined; and that, probably,

because their diseases are fewer than their accidents. The priests,

however, administer the juices of herbs in some cases; and women who are

troubled with after-pains, or other disorders after child-bearing, use a

remedy which one would think needless in a hot country. They first heat

stones, as when they bake their food; then they lay a thick cloth over

them, upon which is put a quantity of a small plant of the mustard kind;

and these are covered with another cloth. Upon this they seat

themselves, and sweat plentifully, to obtain a cure. The men have

practised the same method for the venereal _lues_, but find it

ineffectual. They have no emetic medicines.

Notwithstanding the extreme fertility of the island, a famine frequently

happens, in which, it is said, many perish. Whether this be owing to the

failure of some seasons, to over population, which must sometimes almost

necessarily happen, or to wars, I have not been able to determine;

though the truth of the fact may be fairly inferred, from the great

economy that they observe with respect to their food, even when there is

plenty. In times of scarcity, after their bread-fruit and yams are

consumed, they have recourse to various roots which grow without

cultivation upon the mountains. The _patarra_, which is found in vast

quantities, is what they use first. It is not unlike a very large

potatoe or yam, and good when in its growing state; but, when old, is

full of hard stringy fibres. They then eat two other roots; one not

unlike _taro_; and lastly, the _ehoee_. This is of two sorts; one of

them possessing deleterious qualities, which obliges them to slice and

macerate it in water a night before they bake and eat it. In this

respect, it resembles the _cassava_ root of the West Indies; but it

forms a very insipid, moist paste, in the manner they dress it. However,

I have seen them eat it at times, when no such scarcity reigned. Both

this and the _patarra_ are creeping plants; the last, with ternate

leaves.

Of animal food, a very small portion falls, at any time, to the share of

the lower class of people; and then it is either fish, sea eggs, or

other marine productions; for they seldom or ever eat pork. The _Eree de

hoi_[17] alone is able to furnish pork every day; and inferior chiefs,

according to their riches, once a week, fortnight, or month. Sometimes

they are not even allowed that; for, when the island is impoverished by

war, or other causes, the chief prohibits his subjects to kill any hogs;

and this prohibition, we were told, is in force sometimes for several

months, or even for a year or two. During that restraint, the hogs

multiply so fast, that there are instances of their changing their

domestic state, and turning wild. When it is thought proper to take off

the prohibition, all the chiefs assemble at the king’s place of abode;

and each brings with him a present of hogs. The king then orders some of

them to be killed, on which they feast; and, after that, every one

returns home with liberty to kill what he pleases for his own use. Such

a prohibition was actually in force, on our arrival here; at least, in

all those districts of the island that are immediately under the

direction of Otoo. And, lest it should have prevented our going to

Matavai after leaving Oheitepeha, he sent a message to assure us, that

it should be taken off as soon as the ships arrived there. With respect

to us, we found it so; but we made such a consumption of them, that, I

have no doubt, it would be laid on again as soon as we sailed. A similar

prohibition is also, sometimes extended to fowls.

It is also amongst the better sort that the _ava_ is chiefly used. But

this beverage is prepared somewhat differently from that which we saw so

much of at the Friendly Islands. For they pour a very small quantity of

water upon the root here; and sometimes roast or bake, and bruise the

stalks, without chewing it previously to its infusion. They also use the

leaves of the plant here, which are bruised, and water poured upon them,

as upon the root. Large companies do not assemble to drink it, in that

sociable way which is practised at Tongataboo. But its pernicious

effects are more obvious here; perhaps owing to the manner of preparing

it; as we often saw instances of its intoxicating, or rather stupifying

powers. Some of us, who had been at these islands before, were surprised

to find many people, who, when we saw them last, were remarkable for

their size and corpulency, now almost reduced to skeletons; and, upon

inquiring into the cause of this alteration, it was universally allowed

to be the use of the _ava_. The skins of these people were rough, dry,

and covered with scales; which, they say, every now and then fall off,

and their skin is, as it were, renewed. As an excuse for a practice so

destructive, they allege that it is adopted to prevent their growing too

fat; but it evidently enervates them; and in all probability shortens

their days. As its effects had not been so visible during our former

visits, it is not unlikely that this article of luxury had never been so

much abused as at this time. If it continues to be so fashionable, it

bids fair to destroy great numbers.

The times of eating, at Otaheite, are very frequent. Their first meal,

or (as it may rather be called) their last, as they go to sleep after

it, is about two o’clock in the morning; and the next is at eight. At

eleven, they dine, and again, as Omai expressed it, at two, and at five;

and sup at eight. In this article of domestic life, they have adopted

some customs which are exceedingly whimsical. The women, for instance,

have not only the mortification of being obliged to eat by themselves,

and in a different part of the house from the men; but, by a strange

kind of policy, are excluded from a share of most of the better sorts of

food. They dare not taste turtle, nor fish of the tunny kind, which is

much esteemed; nor some particular sorts of the best plantains; and it

is very seldom that even those of the first rank are suffered to eat

pork. The children of each sex also eat apart; and the women, generally,

serve up their own victuals; for they would certainly starve, before any

grown man would do them such an office. In this, as well as in some

other customs relative to their eating, there is a mysterious conduct

which we could never thoroughly comprehend. When we enquired into the

reasons of it, we could get no other answer, but that it is right and

necessary it should be so.

In other customs respecting the females, there seems to be no such

obscurity; especially as to their connections with the men. If a young

man and woman, from mutual choice, cohabit, the man gives the father of

the girl such things as are necessary in common life; as hogs, cloth, or

canoes, in proportion to the time they are together; and if he thinks

that he has not been sufficiently paid for his daughter, he makes no

scruple of forcing her to leave her friend, and to cohabit with another

person, who may be more liberal. The man, on his part, is always at

liberty to make a new choice; but, should his consort become pregnant,

he may kill the child; and, after that, either continue his connection

with the mother, or leave her. But if he should adopt the child, and

suffer it to live, the parties are then considered as in the married

state, and they commonly live together ever after. However, it is

thought no crime in the man to join a more youthful partner to his first

wife, and to live with both. The custom of changing their connections

is, however, much more general than this last; and it is a thing so

common, that they speak of it with great indifference. The _Erreoes_ are

only those of the better sort, who, from their fickleness, and their

possessing the means of purchasing a succession of fresh connections,

are constantly roaming about; and, from having no particular attachment,

seldom adopt the more settled method mentioned above. And so agreeable

is this licentious plan of life to their disposition, that the most

beautiful of both sexes thus commonly spend their youthful days,

habituated to the practice of enormities which would disgrace the most

savage tribes; but are peculiarly shocking amongst a people whose

general character, in other respects, has evident traces of the

prevalence of humane and tender feelings.[18] When an _Erreoe_ woman is

delivered of a child, a piece of cloth, dipped in water, is applied to

the mouth and nose, which suffocates it.

As in such a life, their women must contribute a very large share of its

happiness, it is rather surprising, besides the humiliating restraints

they are laid under with regard to food, to find them often treated with

a degree of harshness, or rather brutality, which one would scarcely

suppose a man would bestow on an object for whom he had the least

affection. Nothing, however, is more common, than to see the men beat

them without mercy; and, unless this treatment is the effect of

jealousy, which both sexes at least pretend to be sometimes infected

with, it will be difficult to admit this as the motive, as I have seen

several instances where the women have preferred personal beauty to

interest; though I must own, that, even in these cases, they seem

scarcely susceptible of those delicate sentiments that are the result of

mutual affection; and, I believe, that there is less Platonic love in

Otaheite than in any other country.

Cutting or inciding the fore-skin should be mentioned here as a practice

adopted amongst them, from a notion of cleanliness; and they have a

reproachful epithet in their language for those who do not observe that

custom. When there are five or six lads, pretty well grown up in a

neighbourhood, the father of one of them goes to a _Tahoua_, or man of

knowledge, and lets him know. He goes with the lads to the top of the

hills, attended by a servant; and seating one of them properly,

introduces a piece of wood underneath the foreskin, and desires him to

look aside at something he pretends is coming. Having thus engaged the

young man’s attention to another object, he cuts through the skin upon

the wood with a shark’s tooth, generally at one stroke. He then

separates, or rather turns back the divided parts; and, having put on a

bandage, proceeds to perform the same operation on the other lads. At

the end of five days they bathe, and the bandages being taken off, the

matter is cleaned away. At the end of five days more, they bathe again,

and are well; but a thickness of the prepuce where it was cut,

remaining, they go again to the mountains with the _Tahoua_ and servant;

and a fire being prepared, and some stones heated, the _Tahoua_ puts the

prepuce between two of them, and squeezes it gently, which removes the

thickness. They return home, having their heads and other parts of their

bodies adorned with odoriferous flowers; and the _Tahoua_ is rewarded

for his services by their fathers, in proportion to their several

abilities, with presents of hogs and cloth; and if they be poor, their

relations are liberal on the occasion.

Their religious system is extensive, and, in many instances, singular;

but few of the common people have a perfect knowledge of it; that being

confined chiefly to their priests, who are pretty numerous. They do not

seem to pay any respect to one God, as possessing pre-eminence, but

believe in a plurality of divinities, who are all very powerful; and in

this case, as different parts of the island, and the other islands in

the neighbourhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of each, no

doubt, think that they have chosen the most eminent, or, at least, one

who is invested with power sufficient to protect them, and to supply all

their wants. If he should not answer their expectations, they think it

no impiety to change; as has very lately happened in Tiaraboo, where, in

the room of the two divinities formerly honoured there, Oraa[19], god of

Bolabola, has been adopted, I should suppose, because he is the

protector of a people who have been victorious in war; and as, since

they have made this change, they have been very successful themselves

against the inhabitants of _Otaheite-nooe_, they impute it entirely to

_Oraa_, who, as they literally say, fights their battles.

Their assiduity in serving their gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not

only the _whattas_, or offering places of the _morais_, are commonly

loaded with fruit and animals, but there are few houses where you do not

meet with a small place of the same sort near them. Many of them are so

rigidly scrupulous, that they will not begin a meal without first laying

aside a morsel for the _Eatooa_; and we had an opportunity, during this

voyage, of seeing their superstitious zeal carried to a most pernicious

height in the instance of human sacrifices; the occasions of offering

which, I doubt, are too frequent. Perhaps they have recourse to them

when misfortunes occur; for they asked, if one of our men, who happened

to be confined when we were detained by a contrary wind, was _taboo_?

Their prayers are also very frequent, which they chant, much after the

manner of the songs in their festive entertainments. And the women, as

in other cases, are also obliged to show their inferiority in religious

observances; for it is required of them, that they should partly uncover

themselves, as they pass the _morais_; or take a considerable circuit to

avoid them. Though they have no notion, that their god must always be

conferring benefits without sometimes forgetting them, or suffering evil

to befall them, they seem to regard this less than the attempts of some

more inauspicious being to hurt them. They tell us, that _Etee_ is an

evil spirit, who sometimes does them mischief; and to whom, as well as

to their god, they make offerings. But the mischiefs they apprehend from

any superior invincible beings, are confined to things merely temporal.

They believe the soul to be both immaterial and immortal. They say that

it keeps fluttering about the lips during the pangs of death; and that

then it ascends, and mixes with, or, as they express it, is eaten by the

deity. In this state it remains for some time; after which, it departs

to a certain place destined for the reception of the souls of men, where

it exists in eternal night; or, as they sometimes say, in twilight, or

dawn. They have no idea of any permanent punishment after death for

crimes that they have committed on earth; for the souls of good and bad

men are eat indiscriminately by God. But they certainly consider this

coalition with the deity as a kind of purification necessary to be

undergone, before they enter a state of bliss. For, according to their

doctrine, if a man refrain from all connection with women some months

before death, he passes immediately into his eternal mansion without

such a previous union; as if already, by this abstinence, he were pure

enough to be exempted from the general lot.

They are, however, far from entertaining those sublime conceptions of

happiness which our religion, and, indeed, reason, gives us room to

expect hereafter. The only great privilege they seem to think they shall

acquire by death, is immortality; for they speak of spirits being, in

some measure, not totally divested of those passions which actuated them

when combined with material vehicles. Thus, if souls who were formerly

enemies, should meet, they have many conflicts; though, it should seem,

to no purpose, as they are accounted invulnerable in this invisible

state. There is a similar reasoning with regard to the meeting of man

and wife. If the husband dies first, the soul of his wife is known to

him on its arrival in the land of spirits. They resume their former

acquaintance in a spacious house, called _Tourooa_, where the souls of

the deceased assemble to recreate themselves with the gods. She then

retires with him to his separate habitation, where they remain for ever,

and have an offspring; which, however, is entirely spiritual; as they

are neither married, nor are their embraces supposed to be the same as

with corporeal beings.

Some of their notions about the deity are extravagantly absurd. They

believe, that he is subject to the power of those very spirits to whom

he has given existence; and that, in their turn, they frequently eat or

devour him, though he possess the power of recreating himself. They

doubtless use this mode of expression, as they seem incapable of

conversing about immaterial things without constantly referring to

material objects to convey their meaning. And in this manner they

continue the account, by saying, that, in the _Tourooa_, the deity

inquires, if they intend, or not, to destroy him? And that he is not

able to alter their determination. This is known to the inhabitants on

earth, as well as to the spirits; for when the moon is in its wane, it

is said, that they are then devouring their _Eatooa_; and that, as it

increases, he is renewing himself. And to this accident, not only the

inferior, but the most eminent gods are liable. They also believe, that

there are other places for the reception of souls at death. Thus, those

who are drowned in the sea, remain there; where they think that there is

a fine country, houses, and every thing that can make them happy. But

what is more singular, they maintain, that not only all other animals,

but trees, fruit, and even stones, have souls, which at death, or upon

being consumed or broken, ascend to the divinity, with whom they first

mix, and afterward pass into the mansion allotted to each.

They imagine that their punctual performance of religious offices

procures for them every temporal blessing. And as they believe, that the

animating and powerful influence of the divine spirit is every where

diffused, it is no wonder that they join to this many superstitious

opinions about its operations. Accordingly, they believe that sudden

deaths, and all other accidents, are effected by the immediate action of

some divinity. If a man only stumble against a stone, and hurt his toe,

they impute it to an _Eatooa_; so that they may be literally said,

agreeable to their system, to tread enchanted ground. They are startled,

in the night, on approaching a _toopapaoo_, where the dead are exposed,

in the same manner that many of our ignorant and superstitious people

are with the apprehensions of ghosts, and at the sight of a church-yard;

and they have an equal confidence in dreams, which they suppose to be

communications either from their god, or from the spirits of their

departed friends, enabling those favoured with them to foretel future

events; but this kind of knowledge is confined to particular people.

Omai pretended to have this gift. He told us, that the soul of his

father had intimated to him in a dream, on the 26th of July, 1776, that

he should go on shore, at some place, within three days; but he was

unfortunate in this first attempt to persuade us that he was a prophet;

for it was the 1st of August before we got into Teneriffe. Amongst them,

however, the dreamers possess a reputation little inferior to that of

their inspired priests and priestesses, whose predictions they

implicitly believe, and are determined by them in all undertakings of

consequence. The priestess who persuaded Opoony to invade Ulietea, is

much respected by him; and he never goes to war without consulting her.

They also, in some degree, maintain our old doctrine of planetary

influence; at least, they are sometimes regulated, in their public

counsels, by certain appearances of the moon; particularly when lying

horizontally, or much inclined on the convex part, on its first

appearance after the change, they are encouraged to engage in war, with

confidence of success.

They have traditions concerning the creation, which, as might be

expected, are complex, and clouded with obscurity. They say, that a

goddess, having a lump or mass of earth suspended in a cord, gave it a

swing, and scattered about pieces of land, thus constituting Otaheite,

and the neighbouring islands, which were all peopled by a man and a

woman originally fixed at Otaheite. This, however, only respects their

own immediate creation; for they have notions of an universal one before

this; and of lands, of which they have now no other knowledge than what

is mentioned in the tradition. Their most remote account reaches to

Tatooma and Tapuppa, male and female stones or rocks, who support the

congeries of land and water, or our globe underneath. These produced

Totorro, who was killed, and divided into land; and, after him, Otaia

and Oroo were begotten, who were afterward married, and produced, first

land, and then a race of gods. Otai is killed, and Oroo marries a god,

her son, called Teorraha, whom she orders to create more land, the

animals, and all sorts of food upon the earth; as also the sky, which is

supported by men called Teeferei. The spots observed in the moon, are

supposed to be groves of a sort of trees which once grew in Otaheite,

and being destroyed by some accident, their seeds were carried up

thither by doves, where they now flourish.

They have also many legends, both religious and historical; one of which

latter, relative to the practice of eating human flesh, I shall give the

substance of, as a specimen of their method. A long time since, there

lived in Otaheite two men called _Taheeai_; the only name they yet have

for cannibals. None knew from whence they came, or in what manner they

arrived at the island. Their habitation was in the mountains, from

whence they used to issue, and kill many of the natives, whom they

afterwards devoured, and by that means prevented the progress of

population. Two brothers, determined to rid their country of such a

formidable enemy, used a stratagem for their destruction with success.

These still lived farther upward than the _Taheeai_, and in such a

situation, that they could speak with them without greatly hazarding

their own safety. They invited them to accept of an entertainment that

should be provided for them, to which these readily consented. The

brothers then taking some stones, heated them in a fire, and thrusting

them into pieces of _mahee_, desired one of the _Taheeai_ to open his

mouth. On which, one of these pieces was dropped in, and some water

poured down, which made a boiling or hissing noise in quenching the

stone, and killed him. They intreated the other to do the same; but he

declined it, representing the consequences of his companion’s eating.

However, they assured him that the food was excellent, and its effects

only temporary; for that the other would soon recover. His credulity was

such, that he swallowed the bait, and shared the fate of the first. The

natives then cut them in pieces, which they buried; and conferred the

government of the island on the brothers, as a reward for delivering

them from such monsters. Their residence was in the district called

Whapaeenoo; and, to this day, there remains a bread-fruit tree, once the

property of the _Taheeais_. They had also a woman, who lived with them,

and had two teeth of a prodigious size. After they were killed, she

lived at the island Otaha, and, when dead, was ranked amongst their

deities. She did not eat human flesh, as the men; but, from the size of

her teeth, the natives still call any animal that has a fierce

appearance, or is represented with large tusks, _Taheeai_.

Every one must allow, that this story is just as natural as that of

Hercules destroying the Hydra, or the more modern one of Jack the

giant-killer. But I do not find, that there is any moral couched under

it, any more than under most old fables of the same kind, which have

been received as truths only during the prevalence of the same ignorance

that marked the character of the ages in which they were invented. It,

however, has not been improperly introduced, as serving to express the

horror and detestation entertained here against those who feed upon

human flesh. And yet, from some circumstances, I have been led to think,

that the natives of these isles were formerly cannibals. Upon asking

Omai, he denied it stoutly; yet mentioned a fact, within his own

knowledge, which almost confirms such an opinion. When the people of

Bolabola, one time, defeated those of Huaheine, a great number of his

kinsmen were slain. But one of his relations had, afterward, an

opportunity of revenging himself, when the Bolabola men were worsted in

their turn, and cutting a piece out of the thigh of one of his enemies,

he broiled and eat it. I have also frequently considered the offering of

the person’s eye who is sacrificed, to the chief, as a vestige of a

custom which once really existed to a greater extent, and is still

commemorated by this emblematical ceremony.

The being invested with the _maro_, and the presiding at human

sacrifices, seem to be the peculiar characteristics of the sovereign. To

these, perhaps, may be added, the blowing a conch-shell, which produces

a very loud sound. On hearing it, all his subjects are obliged to bring

food of every sort to his royal residence in proportion to their

abilities. On some other occasions, they carry their veneration for his

very name to an extravagant and very destructive pitch. For if, on his

accession to the _maro_, any words in their language be found to have a

resemblance to it in sound, they are changed for others; and if any man

be bold enough not to comply, and continue to use those words, not only

he, but all his relations, are immediately put to death. The same

severity is exercised toward those who shall presume to apply this

sacred name to any animal. And, agreeably to this custom of his

countrymen, Omai used to express his indignation, that the English

should give the names of prince or princess to their favourite horses or

dogs. But while death is the punishment for making free with the name of

their sovereign, if abuse be only levelled at his government, the

offender escapes with the forfeiture of land and houses.

The king never enters the house of any of his subjects; but has, in

every district, where he visits, houses belonging to himself. And if, at

any time, he should be obliged by accident to deviate from this rule,

the house thus honoured with his presence, and every part of its

furniture, is burnt. His subjects not only uncover to him, when present,

down to the waist; but if he be at any particular place, a pole, having

a piece of cloth tied to it, is set up somewhere near, to which they pay

the same honours. His brothers are also intitled to the first part of

the ceremony; but the women only uncover to the females of the royal

family. In short, they seem even superstitious in their respect to him,

and esteem his person little less than sacred. And it is, perhaps, to

these circumstances, that he owes the quiet possession of his dominions.

For even the people of Tiaraboo allow him the same honours as his right;

though, at the time, they look upon their own chief as more powerful;

and say, that he would succeed to the government of the whole island,

should the present reigning family become extinct. This is the more

likely, as Waheiadooa not only possesses Tiaraboo, but many districts of

Opooreanoo. His territories, therefore, are almost equal in extent to

those of Otoo; and he has besides the advantage of a more populous and

fertile part of the island. His subjects, also, have given proofs of

their superiority, by frequent victories over those of Otaheite-nooe,

whom they affect to speak of as contemptible warriors, easily to be

worsted, if, at any time, their chief should wish to put it to the test.

The ranks of people, besides the _Eree de hoi_, and his family, are the

_Erees_, or powerful chiefs; the _Manahoone_, or vassals; and the

_Teou_, or _Toutou_, servants, or rather slaves. The men of each of

these, according to the regular institution, form their connections with

women of their respective ranks; but if with any inferior one, which

frequently happens, and a child be born, it is preserved, and has the

rank of the father, unless he happens to be an _Eree_, in which case it

is killed. If a woman of condition should choose an inferior person to

officiate as a husband, the children he has by her are killed. And if a

_Teou_ be caught in an intrigue with a woman of the blood royal, he is

put to death. The son of the _Eree de hoi_ succeeds his father in title

and honours as soon as he is born; but if he should have no children,

the brother assumes the government at his death. In other families,

possessions always descend to the eldest son; but he is obliged to

maintain his brothers and sisters, who are allowed houses on his

estates.

The boundaries of the several districts into which Otaheite is divided,

are, generally, either rivulets, or low hills, which, in many places,

jut out into the sea. But the subdivisions into particular property are

marked by large stones, which have remained from one generation to

another. The removal of any of these gives rise to quarrels, which are

decided by arms; each party bringing his friends into the field. But if

any one complain to the _Eree de hoi_, he terminates the difference

amicably. This is an offence, however, not common; and long custom seems

to secure property here as effectually as the most severe laws do in

other countries. In conformity also to ancient practice established

amongst them, crimes of a less general nature are left to be punished by

the sufferer, without referring them to a superior. In this case, they

seem to think that the injured person will judge as equitably as those

who are totally unconcerned; and as long custom has allotted certain

punishments for crimes of different sorts, he is allowed to inflict

them, without being amenable to any other person. Thus, if any one be

caught stealing, which is commonly done in the night, the proprietor of

the goods may put the thief instantly to death; and if any one should

enquire of him after the deceased, it is sufficient to acquit him, if he

only inform them of the provocation he had to kill him. But so severe a

punishment is seldom inflicted, unless the articles that are stolen be

reckoned very valuable; such as breast-plates and plaited hair. If only

cloth, or even hogs be stolen, and the thief escape, upon his being

afterward discovered, if he promise to return the same number of pieces

of cloth, or of hogs, no farther punishment is inflicted. Sometimes,

after keeping out of the way for a few days, he is forgiven, or, at

most, gets a slight beating. If a person kill another in a quarrel, the

friends of the deceased assemble, and engage the survivor and his

adherents. If they conquer, they take possession of the house, lands,

and goods of the other party; but if conquered, the reverse takes place.

If a _Manahoone_ kill the _Toutou_, or slave of a chief, the latter

sends people to take possession of the lands and house of the former,

who flies either to some other part of the island, or to some of the

neighbouring islands. After some months he returns, and finding his

stock of hogs much increased, he offers a large present of those, with

some red feathers, and other valuable articles, to the _Toutou_’s

master, who generally accepts the compensation, and permits him to

repossess his house and lands. This practice is the height of venality

and injustice; and the slayer of the slave seems to be under no farther

necessity of absconding, than to impose upon the lower class of people

who are the sufferers. For it does not appear, that the chief has the

least power to punish this _Manahoone_; but the whole management marks a

collusion between him and his superior, to gratify the revenge of the

former, and the avarice of the latter. Indeed, we need not wonder that

the killing of a man should be considered as so venial an offence,

amongst a people who do not consider it as any crime at all, to murder

their own children. When talking to them about such instances of

unnatural cruelty, and asking, whether the chiefs, or principal people

were not angry, and did not punish them? I was told, that the chief

neither could nor would interfere in such cases; and that every one had

a right to do with his own child what he pleased.

Though the productions, the people, and the customs and manners of all

the islands in the neighbourhood, may, in general, be reckoned the same

as at Otaheite, there are a few differences which should be mentioned,

as this may lead to an enquiry about more material ones hereafter, if

such there be, of which we are now ignorant.

With regard to the little island Mataia, or Osnaburgh Island, which lies

twenty leagues east of Otaheite, and belongs to a chief of that place,

who gets from thence a kind of tribute, a different dialect from that of

Otaheite is there spoken. The men of Mataia also wear their hair very

long, and when they fight, cover their arms with a substance which is

beset with sharks’ teeth, and their bodies with a sort of shagreen,

being skin of fishes. At the same time, they are ornamented with

polished pearl shells, which make a prodigious glittering in the sun;

and they have a very large one that covers them before like a shield or

breast-plate.

The language of Otaheite has many words, and even phrases, quite unlike

those of the islands to the westward of it, which all agree; and it is

remarkable for producing great quantities of that delicious fruit we

called apples, which are found in none of the others, except Eimeo. It

has also the advantage of producing an odoriferous wood, called _eahoi_,

which is highly valued at the other isles where there is none; nor even

in the south-east peninsula, or Tiarraboo, though joining it. And at

Mourooa there is a particular bird found upon the hills, much esteemed

for its white feathers; at which place there is also said to be some of

the apples, though it be the most remote of the Society Islands from

Otaheite and Eimeo, where they are produced.

Though the religion of all the islands be the same, each of them has its

particular or tutelar God; whose names, according to the best

information I could receive, are set down in the following list:

_Gods of the Isles._

Huaheine, _Tanne._

Ulietea, _Oroo._

Otaha, _Tanne._

Bolabola, _Oraa._

Mourooa, _Otoo, ee weiahoo._

Toobaee, _Tamouee_.

Tabooymanoo, or }

Saunders’s Island, } _Taroa_.

which is subject }

to Huaheine, }

Eimeo, _Oroo hadoo_.

{Otaheite } _Ooroo_.

{ nooe, }

Otaheite, { { whom they have

{Tiaraboo { _Opoonoa_, and { lately changed

{ _Whatooteeree_ { for Oraa, god

{ of Bolabola.

Mataia, or Osnaburgh } _Tooboo, toobooai, Ry maraiva_.

Island, }

The low isles, Eastward, } _Tammaree_.

Besides the cluster of high islands from Mataia to Mourooa inclusive,

the people of Otaheite are acquainted with a low uninhabited island,

which they name Mopeeha, and seems to be Howe’s Island, laid down to the

westward of Mourooa in our late charts of this ocean. To this the

inhabitants of the most leeward islands sometimes go. There are also

several low islands, to the north-eastward of Otaheite, which they have

sometimes visited, but not constantly; and are said to be only at the

distance two days’ sail with a fair wind. They were thus named to me:

Mataeeva,

Oanaa, called Oanna in Dalrymple’s Letter to Hawkesworth.

Taboohoe,

Awehee,

Kaoora,

Orootooa,

Otavaoo, where are large pearls.

The inhabitants of these isles come more frequently to Otaheite, and the

other neighbouring high islands, from whose natives they differ in being

of a darker colour, with a fiercer aspect, and differently punctured. I

was informed, that at Mataeeva and others of them, it is a custom for

the men to give their daughters to strangers who arrive amongst them;

but the pairs must be five nights lying near each other, without

presuming to proceed farther. On the sixth evening, the father of the

young woman treats his guest with food, and informs his daughter that

she must that night receive him as her husband. The stranger, however,

must not offer to express the least dislike, though the bed-fellow

allotted to him should be ever so disagreeable; for this is considered

as an unpardonable affront, and is punished with death. Forty men of

Bolabola, who, incited by curiosity, had roamed as far as Mataeeva in a

canoe, were treated in this manner; one of them having incautiously

mentioned his dislike of the woman who fell to his lot, in the hearing

of a boy who informed her father. In consequence of this, the Mataeevans

fell upon them; but these warlike people killed three times their own

number; though with the loss of all their party except five. These hid

themselves in the woods, and took an opportunity, when the others were

burying their dead, to enter some houses, where, having provided

themselves with victuals and water, they carried them on board a canoe,

in which they made their escape; and after passing Mataia, at which they

would not touch, at last arrived safe at Eimeo. The Bolabolans, however,

were sensible enough that their travellers had been to blame; for a

canoe from Mataeeva, arriving some time after at Bolabola, so far were

they from retaliating upon them for the death of their countrymen, that

they acknowledged they had deserved their fate, and treated their

visitors kindly.

These low isles are, doubtless, the farthest navigation, which those of

Otaheite and the Society Islands perform at present. It seems to be a

groundless supposition, made by Mons. de Bougainville, that they made

voyages of the prodigious extent[20] he mentions; for I found, that it

is reckoned a sort of prodigy, that a canoe once driven by a storm from

Otaheite, should have fallen in with Mopeeha, or Howe’s Island, though

so near, and directly to leeward. The knowledge they have of other

distant islands is no doubt traditional, and has been communicated to

them by the natives of those islands, driven accidentally upon their

coasts, who besides giving them the names, could easily inform them of

the direction in which the places lie from whence they came, and of the

number of days they had been upon the sea. In this manner, it may be

supposed, that the natives of Wateeoo have increased their catalogue by

the addition of Otaheite and its neighbouring isles, from the people we

met with there, and also of the other islands these had heard of. We may

thus account for that extensive knowledge attributed by the gentlemen of

the Endeavour[21] to Tupia in such matters. And with all due deference

to his veracity, I presume that it was by the same means of information,

that he was able to direct the ship to Oheteroa, without having ever

been there himself, as he pretended; which, on many accounts, is very

improbable.

CHAP. X.

PROGRESS OF THE VOYAGE, AFTER LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.—CHRISTMAS

ISLAND DISCOVERED, AND STATION OF THE SHIPS THERE.—BOATS SENT ASHORE.—

GREAT SUCCESS IN CATCHING TURTLE.—AN ECLIPSE OF THE SUN OBSERVED.—

DISTRESS OF TWO SEAMEN, WHO HAD LOST THEIR WAY.—INSCRIPTION LEFT IN A

BOTTLE.—ACCOUNT OF THE ISLAND.—ITS SOIL.—TREES AND PLANTS.—BIRDS.—ITS

SIZE.--FORM.--SITUATION.--ANCHORING-GROUND.

After leaving Bolabola, I steered to the northward, close hawled, with

the wind between N. E. and E., hardly ever having it to the southward of

E., till after we had crossed the line, and had got into north

latitudes. So that our course, made good, was always to the W. of N.,

and sometimes no better than N. W.

Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our departure from

England, during which we had not, upon the whole, been unprofitably

employed, I was sensible that, with regard to the principal object of my

instructions, our voyage was at this time only beginning; and,

therefore, my attention to every circumstance that might contribute

toward our safety and our ultimate success, was now to be called forth

anew. With this view I had examined into the state of our provisions at

the last islands; and as soon as I had left them and got beyond the

extent of my former discoveries, I ordered a survey to be taken of all

the boatswain’s and carpenter’s stores that were in the ships, that I

might be fully informed of the quantity, state, and condition of every

article; and, by that means, know how to use them to the greatest

advantage.

Before I sailed from the Society Islands, I lost no opportunity of

inquiring of the inhabitants, if there were any islands in a N. or a

N. W. direction from them; but I did not find that they knew of any. Nor

did we meet with any thing that indicated the vicinity of land, till we

came to about the latitude of 8° S., where we began to see birds, such

as boobies, tropic, and men-of-war birds, tern, and some other sorts. At

this time, our longitude was 205° E. Mendana, in his first voyage in

1568[22], discovered an island which he named Isla de Jesus, in latitude

6° 45ʹ S., and 1450 leagues from Callao, which is 200° E. longitude from

Greenwich. We crossed this latitude nearly a hundred leagues to the

eastward of this longitude, and saw there many of the above-mentioned

birds; which are seldom known to go very far from land.

In the night, between the 22d and 23d, we crossed the line in the

longitude of 203° 15ʹ E. Here the variation of the compass was 6° 30ʹ E.

nearly.

On the 24th, about half an hour after day-break, land was discovered

bearing N. E. by E. 1/2 E. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be

one of those low islands so common in this ocean; that is, a narrow bank

of land inclosing the sea within. A few cocoa-nut trees were seen in two

or three places; but in general the land had a very barren appearance.

At noon, it extended from N. E. by E. to S. by E. 1/2 E., about four

miles distant. The wind was at E. S. E.; so that we were under a

necessity of making a few boards to get up to the lee or west side,

where we found from forty to twenty and fourteen fathoms water, over a

bottom of fine sand; the least depth about half a mile from the

breakers, and the greatest about one mile. The meeting with soundings

determined me to anchor, with a view to try to get some turtle; for the

island seemed to be a likely place to meet with them, and to be without

inhabitants. Accordingly, we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms; and then

a boat was dispatched to examine whether it was practicable to land, of

which I had some doubt, as the sea broke in a dreadful surf all along

the shore. When the boat returned, the officer whom I had intrusted with

this examination, reported to me that he could see no place where a boat

could land; but that there was great abundance of fish in the shoal

water, without the breakers.

At day-break the next morning I sent two boats, one from each ship, to

search more accurately for a landing-place; and, at the same time, two

others to fish at a grappling near the shore. These last returned about

eight o’clock with upward of two hundred weight of fish. Encouraged by

this success, they were dispatched again after breakfast, and I then

went in another boat, to take a view of the coast and attempt landing;

but this I found to be wholly impracticable. Toward noon, the two boats

sent on the same search returned. The master, who was in that belonging

to the Resolution, reported to me, that about a league and a half to the

north, was a break in the land, and a channel into the _lagoon_,

consequently, that there was a fit place for landing; and that he had

found the same soundings off this entrance as we had where we now lay.

In consequence of this report the ships weighed anchor, and after two or

three trips came to again in twenty fathoms water, over a bottom of fine

dark sand, before a small island that lies at the entrance of the

_lagoon_; and on each side of which there is a channel leading into it;

but only fit for boats. The water in the _lagoon_ itself is all very

shallow.

On the 26th, in the morning, I ordered Captain Clerke to send a boat

with an officer to the S. E. part of the _lagoon_, to look for turtle;

and Mr. King and I went each in a boat to the N. E. part. I intended to

have gone to the most easterly extremity; but the wind blew too fresh to

allow it, and obliged us to land more to leeward, on a sandy flat, where

we caught one turtle, the only one that we saw in the _lagoon_. We

walked, or rather waded, through the water, to an island; where finding

nothing but a few birds, I left it, and proceeded to the land that

bounds the sea to the N. W., leaving Mr. King to observe the sun’s

meridian altitude. I found this land to be even more barren than the

island I had been upon; but walking over to the sea-coast, I saw five

turtles close to the shore. One of these we caught, and the rest made

their escape. Not seeing any more, I returned on board, as did Mr. King

soon after, without having seen one turtle. We, however, did not despair

of getting a supply, for some of Captain Clerke’s officers who had been

ashore on the land to the southward of the channel leading into the

_lagoon_, had been more fortunate, and caught several there.

In the morning of the 27th, the pinnace and cutter under the command of

Mr. King, were sent to the S. E. part of the island, within the

_lagoon_, and the small cutter to the northward where I had been the day

before; both parties being ordered upon the same service, to catch

turtle. Captain Clerke having had some of his people on shore all night,

they had been so fortunate as to turn between forty and fifty on the

sand, which were brought on board with all expedition this day. And in

the afternoon, the party I had sent northward returned with six. They

were sent back again and remained there till we left the island, having

in general pretty good success.

On the 28th, I landed in company with Mr. Bayly, on the island which

lies between the two channels into the _lagoon_, to prepare the

telescopes for observing the approaching eclipse of the sun; which was

one great inducement to my anchoring here. About noon, Mr. King returned

with one boat and eight turtles, leaving seven behind to be brought by

the other boat, whose people were employed in catching more; and, in the

evening, the same boat was sent with water and provisions for them. Mr.

Williamson now went to superintend this duty in the room of Mr. King,

who remained on board, to attend the observation of the eclipse.

The next day, Mr. Williamson dispatched the two boats back to the ship,

laden with turtle. At the same time, he sent me a message, desiring that

the boats might be ordered round by sea, as he had found a landing-place

on the S. E. side of the island, where most of the turtle were caught;

so that, by sending the boats thither, the trouble would be saved of

carrying them over the land to the inside of the _lagoon_, as had been

hitherto done. The boats were accordingly dispatched to the place which

he pointed out.

On the morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse was to happen, Mr.

King, Mr. Bayly, and myself went ashore on the small island

above-mentioned, to attend the observation. The sky was over-cast till

past nine o’clock, when the clouds about the sun dispersed long enough

to take its altitude, to rectify the time by the watch we made use of.

After this it was again obscured, till about thirty minutes past nine,

and then we found that the eclipse was begun. We now fixed the

micrometers to the telescopes, and observed or measured the uneclipsed

part of the sun’s disk. At these observations, I continued about three

quarters of an hour before the end, when I left off, being, in fact,

unable to continue them longer, on account of the great heat of the sun,

increased by the reflection from the sand.

The sun was clouded at times, but was clear when the eclipse ended, the

time of which was observed as follows:

H. M. S.

{ Mr. Bayly} { 0 26 3 } Apparent Time

By { Mr. King } at { 0 26 1 } P. M.

{ Myself } { 0 25 37 }

Mr. Bayly and I observed with the large achromatic telescopes, and Mr.

King with a reflector. As Mr. Bayly’s telescope and mine were of the

same magnifying power, I ought not to have differed so much from him as

I did. Perhaps it was in part, if not wholly, owing to a protuberance in

the moon which escaped my notice, but was seen by both the other

gentlemen.

In the afternoon the boats and turtling party at the south-east part of

the island, all returned on board except a seaman belonging to the

Discovery, who had been missing two days. There were two of them at

first, who had lost their way; but disagreeing about the most probable

track to bring them back to their companions, they had separated; and

one of them joined the party, after having been absent twenty-four

hours, and been in great distress. Not a drop of fresh water could be

had, for there is none upon the whole island; nor was there a single

cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his thirst, he had

recourse to the singular expedient of killing turtle, and drinking their

blood. His mode of refreshing himself when weary, of which he said he

felt the good effects, was equally whimsical. He undressed himself and

lay down for some time in the shallow water upon the beach.

It was a matter of surprise to every one, how these two men could

contrive to lose themselves. The land over which they had to travel,

from the sea-coast to the _lagoon_, where the boats lay, was not more

than three miles across; nor was there any thing to obstruct their view;

for the country was a flat, with a few shrubs scattered upon it; and

from many parts of it, the masts of the ships could easily be seen. But

this was a rule of direction they never once thought of; nor did they

recollect in what quarter of the island the ships had anchored; and they

were as much at a loss how to get back to them, or to the party they had

straggled from, as if they had just dropped from the clouds. Considering

how strange a set of beings the generality of seamen are, when on shore,

instead of being surprised that these two men should thus lose their

way, it is rather to be wondered at, that no more of the party were

missing. Indeed, one of those who landed with me, was in a similar

situation; but he had sagacity enough to know that the ships were to

leeward, and got on board almost as soon as it was discovered that he

had been left behind.

As soon as Captain Clerke knew that one of the stragglers was still in

this awkward situation, he sent a party in search of him; but neither

the man nor the party having come back, the next morning I ordered two

boats into the _lagoon_, to go different ways in prosecution of the

search. Not long after, Captain Clerke’s party returned with their lost

companion; and my boats having now no object left, I called them back by

signal. This poor fellow must have suffered far greater distress than

the other straggler; not only as having been lost a longer time, but as

we found that he was too squeamish to drink turtle’s blood.

Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board, in a state of vegetation, I

ordered them to be planted on the little island where we had observed

the eclipse; and some melon seeds were sown in another place. I also

left, on the little island, a bottle containing this inscription:

_Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777._

_Naves_ { _Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr._

{ _Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr._

On the 1st of January, 1778, I sent boats to bring on board all our

parties from the land, and the turtle they had caught. Before this was

completed, it was late in the afternoon; so that I did not think proper

to sail till next morning. We got at this island, to both ships, about

three hundred turtle, weighing, one with another, about ninety or a

hundred pounds. They were all of the green kind; and perhaps as good as

any in the world. We also caught, with hook and line, as much fish as we

could consume, during our stay. They consisted principally of cavallies,

of different sizes; large and small snappers; and a few of two sorts of

rock-fish; one with numerous spots of blue, and the other with whitish

streaks scattered about.

The soil of this island, in some places, is light and black, evidently

composed of decayed vegetables, the dung of birds, and sand. There are

other places again, where nothing but marine productions, such as broken

coral stones, and shells, are to be seen. These are deposited in long

narrow ridges, lying in a parallel direction with the sea-coast, not

unlike a ploughed field; and must have been thrown up by the waves,

though, at this time, they do not reach within a mile of some of these

places. This seems to furnish an incontestable proof, that the island

has been produced by accessions from the sea, and is in a state of

increase; for not only the broken pieces of coral, but many of the

shells, are too heavy and too large to have been brought by any birds,

from the beach, to the places where they now lie. Not a drop of fresh

water was any where to be found, though frequently dug for. We met with

several ponds of salt water, which had no visible communication with the

sea, and must, therefore, in all probability, be filled by the water

filtrating through the sand, in high tides. One of the lost men found

some salt on the south east part of the island. But, though this was an

article of which we were in want, a man who could lose himself as he

did, and not know whether he was travelling east, west, north or south,

was not to be depended upon as a fit guide to conduct us to the place.

There were not the smallest traces of any human being having ever been

here before us; and, indeed, should any one be so unfortunate as to be

accidentally driven upon the island, or left there, it is hard to say,

that he could be able to prolong existence. There is, indeed, abundance

of birds and fish; but no visible means of allaying thirst, nor any

vegetable that could supply the place of bread, or correct the bad

effects of an animal diet; which in all probability would soon prove

fatal alone. On the few cocoa-trees upon the island, the number of which

did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found; and, in general,

what was found, was either not fully grown, or had the juice salt, or

blackish. So that a ship touching here, must expect nothing but fish and

turtle; and of these an abundant supply may be depended upon.

On some parts of the land were a few low trees. Mr. Anderson gave me an

account, also, of two small shrubs, and of two or three small plants;

all which we had seen on Palmerston’s Island, and Otakootaia. There was

also a species of _sida_ or Indian mallow; a sort of purslain; and

another small plant that seemed from its leaves a _mesembryanthemum_;

with two species of grass. But each of these vegetable productions was

in so small a quantity, and grew with so much languor, that one is

almost surprised that the species do not become extinct.

Under the low trees above-mentioned, sat infinite numbers of tern, or

egg-bird. These are black above, and white below, with a white arch on

the forehead; and are rather larger than the common noddy. Most of them

had lately hatched their young; which lay under the old ones, upon the

bare ground. The rest had eggs; of which they only lay one, larger than

that of a pigeon, bluish and speckled with black. There were also a good

many common boobies; a sort that are almost like a gannet; and a sooty,

or chocolate-coloured one, with a white belly. To this list we must add

men-of-war-birds; tropic birds; curlews; sand-pipers; a small land-bird

like a hedge-sparrow; land-crabs; small lizards; and rats.

As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery Christmas Island.

I judge it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference. It

seemed to be of a semicircular form; or like the moon in the last

quarter, the two horns being the north and south points; which bear from

each other nearly north by east, and south by west, four or five leagues

distant. This west side, or the little isle at the entrance into the

_lagoon_, upon which we observed the eclipse, lies in the latitude of 1°

59ʹ north, and in the longitude of 202° 30ʹ east, determined by a

considerable number of lunar observations, which differed only 7ʹ from

the time-keeper; it being so much less. The variation of the compass was

6° 22-1/2ʹ E.; and the dip of the north end of the needle 11° 54ʹ.

Christmas Island, like most others in this ocean, is bounded by a reef

of coral rocks, which extends but a little way from the shore. Farther

out than this reef, on the west side, is a bank of sand, extending a

mile into the sea. On this bank is good anchorage, in any depth between

eighteen and thirty fathoms. In less than the first mentioned depth, the

reef would be too near; and in more than the last, the edge of the bank

would not be at a sufficient distance. During the time we lay here, the

wind blew constantly a fresh gale at east, or east by south, except one

or two days. We had, always, a great swell from the northward, which

broke upon the reef, in a prodigious surf. We had found this swell

before we came to the island; and it continued for some days after we

left it.

CHAP. XI.

SOME ISLANDS DISCOVERED.—ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES OF ATOOI, WHO COME OFF

TO THE SHIPS, AND THEIR BEHAVIOUR ON GOING ON BOARD.—ONE OF THEM

KILLED.—PRECAUTIONS USED TO PREVENT INTERCOURSE WITH THE FEMALES.—A

WATERING-PLACE FOUND.—RECEPTION UPON LANDING.—EXCURSION INTO THE

COUNTRY.—A MORAI VISITED AND DESCRIBED.—GRAVES OF THE CHIEFS, AND OF

THE HUMAN SACRIFICES THERE BURIED.—ANOTHER ISLAND, CALLED ONEEHOW,

VISITED.—CEREMONIES PERFORMED BY THE NATIVES, WHO GO OFF TO THE

SHIPS.—REASONS FOR BELIEVING THAT THEY ARE CANNIBALS.—A PARTY SENT

ASHORE, WHO REMAIN TWO NIGHTS.—ACCOUNT OF WHAT PASSED ON LANDING.—THE

SHIPS LEAVE THE ISLANDS, AND PROCEED TO THE NORTH.

On the 2d of January, at day-break, we weighed anchor, and resumed our

course to the north; having fine weather, and a gentle breeze at east,

and east-south-east, till we got into the latitude of 7° 45ʹ N. and the

longitude of 205° E., where we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a

north-east by east, and east-north-east wind. At first it blew faint,

but freshened as we advanced to the north. We continued to see birds

every day, of the sorts last mentioned; sometimes in greater numbers

than others; and between the latitude of 10° and 11°, we saw several

turtle. All these are looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land.

However, we discovered none till day-break, in the morning of the 18th,

when an island made its appearance, bearing north-east by east; and,

soon after, we saw more land bearing north, and entirely detached from

the former. Both had the appearance of being high land. At noon, the

first bore north-east by east, half east, by estimation about eight or

nine leagues distant; and an elevated hill, near the east end of the

other, bore north, half west. Our latitude, at this time, was 21° 12ʹ

N.; and longitude 200° 41ʹ E. We had now light airs and calms, by turns;

so that at sunset, we were not less than nine or ten leagues from the

nearest land.

On the 19th, at sunrise, the island first seen, bore east several

leagues distant. This being directly to windward, which prevented our

getting near it, I stood for the other, which we could reach; and not

long after discovered a third island in the direction of west

north-west, as far distant as land could be seen. We had now a fine

breeze at east by north; and I steered for the east end of the second

island; which at noon extended from north, half east, to west

north-west, a quarter west, the nearest part being about two leagues

distant. At this time, we were in some doubt whether or no the land

before us was inhabited; but this doubt was soon cleared up, by seeing

some canoes coming off from the shore, toward the ships. I immediately

brought-to, to give them time to join us. They had from three to six men

each; and, on their approach, we were agreeably surprised to find, that

they spoke the language of Otaheite, and of the other islands we had

lately visited. It required but very little address, to get them to come

alongside; but no intreaties could prevail upon any of them to come on

board. I tied some brass medals to a rope, and gave them to those in one

of the canoes, who, in return, tied some small mackerel to the rope as

an equivalent. This was repeated; and some small nails, or bits of iron,

which they valued more than any other article, were given them. For

these they exchanged more fish, and a sweet potatoe; a sure sign that

they had some notion of bartering; or, at least, of returning one

present for another. They had nothing else in their canoes, except some

large gourd shells, and a kind of fishing-net; but one of them offered

for sale the piece of stuff that he wore round his waist, after the

manner of the other islands. These people were of a brown colour; and,

though of the common size, were stoutly made. There was little

difference in the cast of their colour, but a considerable variation in

their features; some of their visages not being very unlike those of

Europeans. The hair of most of them was cropt pretty short; others had

it flowing loose; and, with a few, it was tied in a bunch on the crown

of the head. In all, it seemed to be naturally black; but most of them

had stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with some

stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general they wore their

beards. They had no ornaments about their persons, nor did we observe

that their ears were perforated; but some were punctured on the hands,

or near the groin, though in a small degree; and the bits of cloth which

they wore, were curiously stained with red, black, and white colours.

They seemed very mild; and had no arms of any kind, if we except some

small stones, which they had evidently brought for their own defence;

and these they threw overboard, when they found that they were not

wanted.

Seeing no signs of an anchoring place at this eastern extreme of the

island, I bore away to leeward, and ranged along the south-east side, at

the distance of half a league from the shore. As soon as we made sail,

the canoes left us; but others came off, as we proceeded along the

coast, bringing with them roasting pigs, and some very fine potatoes,

which they exchanged, as the others had done, for whatever was offered

to them. Several small pigs were purchased for a sixpenny nail; so that

we again found ourselves in a land of plenty; and just at the time when

the turtle, which we had so fortunately procured at Christmas Island,

were nearly expended. We passed several villages; some seated near the

sea, and others farther up the country. The inhabitants of all of them

crowded to the shore, and collected themselves on the elevated places to

view the ships. The land upon this side of the island rises in a gentle

slope, from the sea to the foot of the mountains, which occupy the

centre of the country, except at one place near the east end, where they

rise directly from the sea, and seemed to be formed of nothing but

stone, or rocks lying in horizontal _strata_. We saw no wood, but what

was up in the interior part of the island, except a few trees about the

villages; near which, also, we could observe several plantations of

plantains and sugar-canes, and spots that seemed cultivated for roots.

We continued to sound, without striking ground with a line of fifty

fathoms, till we came abreast of a low point, which is about the middle

of this side of the island, or rather nearer the north-west end. Here we

met with twelve and fourteen fathoms, over a rocky bottom. Being past

this point, from which the coast trended more northerly, we had twenty,

then sixteen, twelve, and, at last, five fathoms over a sandy bottom.

The last soundings were about a mile from the shore. Night now put a

stop to any farther researches; and we spent it standing off and on. The

next morning we stood in for the land, and were met with several canoes

filled with people; some of whom took courage, and ventured on board.

In the course of my several voyages, I never before met with the natives

of any place so much astonished, as these people were, upon entering a

ship. Their eyes were continually flying from object to object; the

wildness of their looks and gestures fully expressing their entire

ignorance about every thing they saw, and strongly marking to us, that,

till now, they had never been visited by Europeans, nor been acquainted

with any of our commodities except iron; which, however, it was plain,

they had only heard of, or had known it in some small quantity brought

to them at some distant period. They seemed only to understand, that it

was a substance much better adapted to the purposes of cutting, or of

boring of holes, than any thing their own country produced. They asked

for it by the name of _hamaite_, probably referring to some instrument,

in the making of which iron could be usefully employed; for they applied

that name to the blade of a knife, though we could be certain that they

had no idea of that particular instrument; nor could they at all handle

it properly. For the same reason, they frequently called iron by the

name of _toe_, which in their language signifies a hatchet, or rather a

kind of adze. On asking them what iron was, they immediately answered,

“We do not know; you know what it is, and we only understand it as

_toe_, or _hamaite_.” When we shewed them some beads, they asked first,

“What they were; and then, whether they should eat them?” But on their

being told, that they were to be hung in their ears, they returned them

as useless. They were equally indifferent as to a looking-glass, which

was offered them, and returned it, for the same reason; but sufficiently

expressed their desire for _hamaite_ and _toe_, which they wished might

be very large. Plates of earthen-ware, china cups, and other such

things, were so new to them, that they asked if they were made of wood;

but wished to have some, that they might carry them to be looked at on

shore. They were in some respects naturally well bred; or, at least,

fearful of giving offence, asking, where they should sit down, whether

they might spit upon the deck, and the like. Some of them repeated a

long prayer before they came on board; and others, afterward, sung and

made motions with their hands, such as we had been accustomed to see in

the dances of the islands we had lately visited. There was another

circumstance in which they also perfectly resembled those other

islanders. At first, on their entering the ship, they endeavoured to

steal every thing they came near; or rather to take it openly, as what

we either should not resent, or not hinder. We soon convinced them of

their mistake; and if they, after some time, became less active in

appropriating to themselves whatever they took a fancy to, it was

because they found that we kept a watchful eye over them.

At nine o’clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three armed boats,

under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, to look for a landing-place,

and for fresh water. I ordered him, that if he should find it necessary

to land in search of the latter, not to suffer more than one man to go

with him out of the boats. Just as they were putting off from the ship,

one of the natives having stolen the butcher’s cleaver, leaped

overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened to the shore, the boats

pursuing him in vain.

The order not to permit the crews of the boats to go on shore was

issued, that I might do every thing in my power to prevent the

importation of a fatal disease into this island, which I knew some of

our men laboured under, and which, unfortunately, had been already

communicated by us to other islands in these seas. With the same view, I

ordered all female visitors to be excluded from the ships. Many of them

had come off in the canoes. Their size, colour, and features did not

differ much from those of the men; and though their countenances were

remarkably open and agreeable, there were few traces of delicacy to be

seen, either in their faces, or other proportions. The only difference

in their dress, was their having a piece of cloth about the body,

reaching from near the middle to half-way down the thighs, instead of

the _maro_ worn by the other sex. They would as readily have favoured us

with their company on board as the men; but I wished to prevent all

connection, which might, too probably, convey an irreparable injury to

themselves, and through their means, to the whole nation. Another

necessary precaution was taken, by strictly enjoining, that no person,

known to be capable of propagating the infection, should be sent upon

duty out of the ships.

Whether these regulations, dictated by humanity, had the desired effect,

or no, time only can discover. I had been equally attentive to the same

object, when I first visited the Friendly Islands; yet I afterward

found, with real concern, that I had not succeeded. And I am much

afraid, that this will always be the case, in such voyages as ours,

whenever it is necessary to have a number of people on shore. The

opportunities and inducements to an intercourse between the sexes are

then too numerous to be guarded against; and however confident we may be

of the health of our men, we are often undeceived too late. It is even a

matter of doubt with me, if it be always in the power of the most

skilful of the faculty to pronounce, with any certainty, whether a

person who has been under their care, in certain stages of this malady,

is so effectually cured, as to leave no possibility of his being still

capable of communicating the taint. I think I could mention some

instances which justify my presuming to hazard this opinion. It is

likewise well known, that, amongst a number of men, there are generally

to be found some so bashful as to endeavour to conceal their labouring

under any symptoms of this disorder. And there are others, again, so

profligate, as not to care to whom they communicate it. Of this last, we

had an instance at Tongataboo, in the gunner of the Discovery, who had

been stationed on shore to manage the trade for that ship. After he knew

that he had contracted this disease, he continued to have connections

with different women, who were supposed not to have already contracted

it. His companions expostulated with him without effect, till Captain

Clerke, hearing of this dangerous irregularity of conduct, ordered him

on board.

While the boats were occupied in examining the coast, we stood on and

off with the ships, waiting for their return. About noon, Mr. Williamson

came back, and reported that he had seen a large pond behind a beach

near one of the villages, which the natives told him contained fresh

water; and that there was anchoring-ground before it. He also reported,

that he had attempted to land in another place, but was prevented by the

natives, who, coming down to the boats in great numbers, attempted to

take away the oars, muskets, and, in short, every thing that they could

lay hold of; and pressed so thick upon him, that he was obliged to fire,

by which one man was killed. But this unhappy circumstance I did not

know till after we had left the island; so that all my measures were

directed as if nothing of the kind had happened. Mr. Williamson told me,

that, after the man fell, his countrymen took him up, carried him off,

and then retired from the boat; but still they made signals for our

people to land, which he declined. It did not appear to Mr. Williamson,

that the natives had any design to kill, or even to hurt, any of his

party; but they seemed excited by mere curiosity, to get from them what

they had, being at the same time ready to give in return any thing of

their own.

After the boats were on board, I dispatched one of them to lie in the

best anchoring-ground; and as soon as she had got to this station, I

bore down with the ships, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms water; the

bottom a fine grey sand. The east point of the road, which was the low

point before mentioned, bore S. 51° E.; the west point, N. 65° W.; and

the village, behind which the water was said to be, N. E. by E., distant

one mile. But, little more than a quarter of a mile from us, there were

breakers, which I did not see till after the Resolution was placed. The

Discovery anchored to the eastward of us, and farther from the land. The

ships being thus stationed, between three and four o’clock I went ashore

with three armed boats, and twelve marines, to examine the water, and to

try the disposition of the inhabitants, several hundred of whom were

assembled on a sandy beach before the village; behind it was a narrow

valley, the bottom of which was occupied by the piece of water.

The very instant I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives

all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble

posture, till, by expressive signs, I prevailed upon them to rise. They

then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to me, with

plantain-trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen

practised, on such occasions, at the Society and other islands; and a

long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of the

assembly sometimes joined, I expressed my acceptance of their proffered

friendship, by giving them, in return, such presents as I had brought

with me from the ship for that purpose. When this introductory business

was finished, I stationed a guard upon the beach, and got some of the

natives to conduct me to the water, which proved to be very good, and in

a proper situation for our purpose. It was so considerable, that it may

be called a lake; and it extended farther up the country than we could

see. Having satisfied myself about this very essential point, and about

the peaceable disposition of the natives, I returned on board; and then

gave orders that every thing should be in readiness for landing and

filling our water-casks in the morning, when I went ashore with the

people employed in that service, having a party of marines with us for a

guard, who were stationed on the beach.

[Illustration: _A Morai in Atooi._]