“The priests, with these things in their hands, separately repeated

sentences; and, at intervals, two, and sometimes all three, sung a

melancholy ditty, little attended to by the people. This praying and

singing continued for an hour. Then, after a short prayer, the principal

priest uncovered the _maro_; and Otoo rose up, and wrapped it about him,

holding, at the same time, in his hand, a cap or bonnet, composed of the

red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird, mixed with other feathers

of a dark colour. He stood in the middle space, facing the three

priests, who continued their prayers for about ten minutes; when a man,

starting from the crowd, said something which ended with the word

_heiva!_ and the crowd echoed back to him, three times, _Earee!_ This,

as I had been told before, was the principal part of the solemnity.

“The company now moved to the opposite side of the great pile of stones,

where is what they call the king’s _morai_; which is not unlike a large

grave. Here the same ceremony was performed over again, and ended in

three cheers. The _maro_ was now wrapped up, and encreased in its

splendour by the addition of a small piece of red feathers, which one of

the priests gave Otoo when he had it on, and which he stuck into it.

“From this place the people went to a large hut, close by the _morai_,

where they seated themselves in much greater order than is usual among

them. A man of Tiaraboo then made an oration, which lasted about ten

minutes. He was followed by an Attahooroo man; afterward Potatou spoke

with much greater fluency and grace than any of them; for, in general,

they spoke in short, broken sentences, with a motion of the hand that

was rather awkward. Tooteo, Otoo’s orator, spoke next, and after him a

man from Eimeo. Two or three more speeches were made; but not much

attended to. Omai told me, that the speeches declared that they should

not fight, but all be friends. As many of the speakers expressed

themselves with warmth, possibly there were some recriminations and

protestations of their good intentions. In the midst of their speaking,

a man of Attahooroo got up, with a sling fastened to his waist, and a

large stone placed upon his shoulder. After parading near a quarter of

an hour in the open space, repeating something in a singing tone, he

threw the stone down. This stone, and a plantain-tree that lay at Otoo’s

feet, were, after the speeches ended, carried to the _morai_; and one of

the priests, and Otoo with him, said something upon the occasion.

“On our return to Oparre, the sea-breeze having set in, we were obliged

to land, and had a pleasant walk through almost the whole extent of

Tettaha to Oparre. A tree, with two bundles of dried leaves suspended

upon it, marked the boundary of the two districts. The man who had

performed the ceremony of the stone and sling came with us. With him

Otoo’s father had a long conversation. He seemed very angry. I

understood he was enraged at the part Towha had taken in the Eimeo

business.”

From what I can judge of this solemnity, as thus described by Mr. King,

it had not been wholly a thanksgiving, as Omai told us, but rather a

confirmation of the treaty, or perhaps both. The grave, which Mr. King

speaks of, seems to be the very spot where the celebration of the rites

began, when the human sacrifice, at which I was present, was offered,

and before which the victim was laid, after being removed from the sea

side. It is at this part of the _morai_, also, that they first invest

their kings with the _maro_. Omai, who had been present when Otoo was

made king, described to me the whole ceremony, when we were here; and I

find it to be almost the same, as this that Mr. King has now described,

though we understood it to be upon a very different occasion. The

plantain-tree, so often mentioned, is always the first thing introduced,

not only in all their religious ceremonies, but in all their debates,

whether of a public or private nature. It is also used on other

occasions; perhaps many more than we know of. While Towha was at Eimeo,

one or more messengers came from him to Otoo every day. The messenger

always came with a young plantain-tree in his hand, which he laid down

at Otoo’s feet, before he spoke a word; then seated himself before him,

and related what he was charged with. I have seen two men in such high

dispute that I expected they would proceed to blows; yet, on one laying

a plantain-tree before the other, they have both become cool, and

carried on the argument without farther animosity. In short, it is, upon

all occasions, the olive-branch of these people.

The war with Eimeo, and the solemn rites which were the consequence of

it, being thus finally closed, all our friends paid us a visit on the

26th; and, as they knew that we were upon the point of sailing, brought

with them more hogs than we could take off their hands. For, having no

salt left, to preserve any, we wanted no more than for present use.

The next day, I accompanied Otoo to Oparre; and, before I left it, I

looked at the cattle and poultry, which I had consigned to my friend’s

care, at that place. Every thing was in a promising way; and properly

attended unto. Two of the geese and two of the ducks were sitting; but

the pea and turkey hens had not begun to lay. I got from Otoo four

goats; two of which I intended to leave at Ulietea, where none had as

yet been introduced; and the other two, I proposed to reserve for the

use of any other islands I might meet with in my passage to the north.

A circumstance which I shall now mention of Otoo, will shew that these

people are capable of much address and art to gain their purposes.

Amongst other things which, at different times, I had given to this

chief, was a spying-glass. After having it in his possession two or

three days, tired of its novelty, and probably finding it of no use to

him, he carried it privately to Captain Clerke, and told him, that, as

he had been his very good friend, he had got a present for him, which he

knew would be agreeable. “But, says Otoo, you must not let _Toote_ know

it; because he wants it, and I would not let him have it.” He then put

the glass into Captain Clerke’s hands; at the same time, assuring him,

that he came honestly by it. Captain Clerke at first declined accepting

it; but Otoo insisted upon it, and left it with him. Some days after, he

put Captain Clerke in mind of the glass; who, though he did not want it,

was yet desirous of obliging Otoo; and thinking, that a few axes would

be of more use at this island, produced four to give him in return. Otoo

no sooner saw this, than he said, “_Toote_ offered me five for it.”

“Well, says Captain Clerke, if that be the case, your friendship for me

shall not make you a loser, and you shall have six axes.” These he

accepted; but desired again, that I might not be told what he had done.

Our friend Omai got one good thing at this island for the many good

things he gave away. This was a very fine double sailing canoe,

completely equipped, and fit for the sea. Some time before, I had made

up for him, a suit of English colours; but he thought these too valuable

to be used at this time; and patched up a parcel of colours, such as

flags and pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, which he spread on

different parts of this vessel, all at the same time; and drew together

as many people to look at her, as a man-of-war would, dressed, in a

European port. These streamers of Omai were a mixture of English,

French, Spanish, and Dutch, which were all the European colours that he

had seen. When I was last at this island, I gave to Otoo an English jack

and pendant, and to Towha a pendant; which I now found they had

preserved with the greatest care.

Omai had also provided himself with a good stock of cloth and cocoa-nut

oil, which are not only in greater plenty, but much better at Otaheite

than at any of the Society islands; insomuch, that they are articles of

trade. Omai would not have behaved so inconsistently, and so much unlike

himself, as he did, in many instances, but for his sister and

brother-in-law, who, together with a few more of their acquaintance,

engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other view than to strip

him of every thing he had got. And they would, undoubtedly, have

succeeded in their scheme, if I had not put a stop to it in time, by

taking the most useful articles of his property into my possession. But

even this would not have saved Omai from ruin, if I had suffered these

relations of his to have gone with, or to have followed us to, his

intended place of settlement, Huaheine. This they had intended; but I

disappointed their farther views of plunder, by forbidding them to shew

themselves in that island, while I remained in the neighbourhood; and

they knew me too well not to comply.

On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed me, that he had got a

canoe, which he desired I would take with me, and carry home, as a

present from him to the _Earee rahie no Pretane_; it being the only

thing, he said, that he could send worth his Majesty’s acceptance. I was

not a little pleased with Otoo for this mark of his gratitude. It was a

thought entirely his own, not one of us having given him the least hint

about it; and it shewed that he fully understood to whom he was indebted

for the most valuable presents that he had received. At first, I thought

that this canoe had been a model of one of their vessels of war; but I

soon found that it was a small _ivahah_, about sixteen feet long. It was

double, and seemed to have been built for the purpose; and was decorated

with all those pieces of carved work, which they usually fix upon their

canoes. As it was too large for me to take on board, I could only thank

him for his good intentions; but it would have pleased him much better,

if his present could have been accepted.

We were detained here some days longer than I expected, by light breezes

from the west, and calms by turns; so that we could not get out of the

bay. During this time, the ships were crowded with our friends, and

surrounded by a multitude of canoes; for not one would leave the place

till we were gone. At length, at three o’clock in the afternoon of the

29th, the wind came at east, and we weighed anchor.

As soon as the ships were under sail, at the request of Otoo, and to

gratify the curiosity of his people, I fired seven guns, loaded with

shot; after which, all our friends, except him, and two or three more,

left us with such marks of affection and grief, as sufficiently shewed

how much they regretted our departure. Otoo being desirous of seeing the

ship sail, I made a stretch out to sea, and then in again; when he also

bid us farewell, and went ashore in his canoe.

The frequent visits we have lately paid to this island, seem to have

created a full persuasion, that the intercourse will not be

discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by Otoo, to request, in his

name, the _Earee rahie no Pretane_, to send him, by the next ships, red

feathers, and the birds that produce them; axes; half a dozen muskets,

with powder and shot; and, by no means, to forget horses.

I have occasionally mentioned my receiving considerable presents from

Otoo, and the rest of the family, without specifying what returns I

made. It is customary for these people, when they make a present, to let

us know what they expect in return; and we find it necessary to gratify

them; so that what we get by way of present, comes dearer than what we

get by barter. But as we were sometimes pressed by occasional scarcity,

we could have recourse to our friends for a present, or supply, when we

could not get our wants relieved by any other method; and therefore,

upon the whole, this way of traffic was full as advantageous to us as to

the natives. For the most part, I paid for each separate article as I

received it, except in my intercourse with Otoo. His presents generally

came so fast upon me, that no account was kept between us. Whatever he

asked for, that I could spare, he had whenever he asked for it; and I

always found him moderate in his demands.

If I could have prevailed upon Omai to fix himself at Otaheite, I should

not have left it so soon as I did; for there was not a probability of

our being better or cheaper supplied with refreshments at any other

place, than we continued to be here, even at the time of our leaving it.

Besides, such a cordial friendship and confidence subsisted between us

and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected any where else; and, it

was a little extraordinary, that this friendly intercourse had never

once been suspended by any untoward accident; nor had there been a theft

committed that deserves to be mentioned. Not that I believe their

morals, in this respect, to be much mended; but am rather of opinion,

that their regularity of conduct was owing to the fear the chiefs were

under of interrupting a traffic which they might consider as the means

of securing to themselves a more considerable share of our commodities

than could have been got by plunder or pilfering. Indeed, this point I

settled at the first interview with their chiefs, after my arrival. For,

observing the great plenty that was in the island, and the eagerness of

the natives to possess our various articles of trade, I resolved to make

the most of these two favourable circumstances, and explained myself, in

the most decisive terms, that I would not suffer them to rob us, as they

had done upon many former occasions. In this Omai was of great use, as I

instructed him to point out to them the good consequences of their

honest conduct; and the fatal mischiefs they must expect to suffer by

deviating from it.

It is not always in the power of the chiefs to prevent robberies; they

are frequently robbed themselves; and complain of it as a great evil.

Otoo left the most valuable things he had from me in my possession, till

the day before we sailed; and the reason he gave for it was, that they

were no where so safe. Since the bringing in of new riches, the

inducements to pilfering must have increased. The chiefs, sensible of

this, are now extremely desirous of chests. They seemed to set much

value upon a few the Spaniards had left amongst them; and they were

continually asking us for some. I had one made for Otoo, the dimensions

of which, according to his own directions, were eight feet in length,

five in breadth, and about three in depth. Locks and bolts were not a

sufficient security; but it must be large enough for two people to sleep

upon, by way of guarding it in the night.

It will appear a little extraordinary, that we, who had a smattering of

their language, and Omai, besides, for an interpreter, could never get

any clear account of the time when the Spaniards arrived, how long they

stayed, and when they departed. The more we inquired into this matter,

the more we were convinced of the inability of most of these people to

remember, or note the time, when past events happened; especially if it

exceeded ten or twenty months. It, however, appeared, by the date of the

inscription upon the cross, and by the information we received from the

most intelligent of the natives, that two ships arrived at Oheitepeha in

1774, soon after I left Matavai, which was in May, the same year. They

brought with them the house and live-stock before mentioned. Some said,

that, after landing these things, and some men, they sailed in quest of

me, and returned in about ten days. But I have some doubt of the truth

of this, as they were never seen, either at Huaheine, or at Ulietea. The

live-stock they left here, consisted of one bull, some goats, hogs, and

dogs, and the male of some other animal; which we afterwards found to be

a ram, and, at this time, was at Bolabola, whither the bull was also to

have been transported.

The hogs are of a large kind; have already greatly improved the breed

originally found by us upon the island; and, at the time of our late

arrival, were very numerous; Goats are, also, in tolerable plenty; there

being hardly a chief of any note that has not got some. As to the dogs

that the Spaniards put ashore, which are of two or three sorts, I think

they would have done the island a great deal more service, if they had

hanged them all, instead of leaving them upon it. It was to one of them

that my young ram fell a victim.

When these ships left the islands, four Spaniards remained behind. Two

were priests, one a servant, and the fourth made himself very popular

among the natives, who distinguish him by the name of Mateema. He seems

to have been a person who had studied their language; or, at least, to

have spoken it so as to be understood; and to have taken uncommon pains

to impress the minds of the islanders with the most exalted ideas of the

greatness of the Spanish nation, and to make them think meanly of the

English. He even went so far as to assure them, that we no longer

existed as an independent nation; that _Pretane_ was only a small

island, which they, the Spaniards, had entirely destroyed; and for me,

that they had met with me at sea, and, with a few shot, had sent my

ship, and every soul in her, to the bottom; so that my visiting

Otaheite, at this time, was, of course, very unexpected. All this, and

many other improbable falsehoods, did this Spaniard make these people

believe. If Spain had no other views in this expedition, but to

depreciate the English, they had better have kept their ships at home;

for my returning again to Otaheite was considered as a complete

confutation of all that Mateema had said.

With what design the priests stayed, we can only guess. If it was to

convert the natives to the catholic faith, they have not succeeded in

any one instance. But it does not appear that they ever attempted it;

for, if the natives are to be believed, they never conversed with them,

either on this, or on any other subject. The priests resided constantly

in the house at Oheitepeha; but Mateema roved about, visiting most parts

of the island. At length, after he and his companions had staid ten

months, two ships came to Oheitepeha, took them on board, and sailed

again in five days. This hasty departure shews, that, whatever design

the Spaniards might have had upon this island, they had now laid it

aside. And yet, as I was informed by Otoo, and many others, before they

went away, they would have the natives believe that they still meant to

return, and to bring with them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and

women, who were to settle, live, and die on the island. Otoo, when he

told me this, added, that if the Spaniards should return, he would not

let them come to Matavai Fort, which, he said, was our’s. It was easy to

see that the idea pleased him; little thinking, that the completion of

it would at once deprive him of his kingdom, and the people of their

liberties. This shews with what facility a settlement might be made at

Otaheite; which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope will

never happen. Our occasional visits may, in some respects, have

benefited its inhabitants; but a permanent establishment amongst them,

conducted as most European establishments amongst Indian nations have

unfortunately been, would, I fear, give them just cause to lament, that

our ships had ever found them out. Indeed, it is very unlikely, that any

measure of this kind should ever be seriously thought of, as it can

neither serve the purposes of public ambition, nor of private avarice;

and, without such inducements, I may pronounce, that it will never be

undertaken.

I have already mentioned the visit that I had from one of the two

natives of this island, who had been carried by the Spaniards to Lima. I

never saw him afterward; which I rather wondered at, as I had received

him with uncommon civility. I believe, however, that Omai had kept him

at a distance from me, by some rough usage; jealous that there should be

another traveller upon the island who might vie with himself. Our

touching at Teneriffe was a fortunate circumstance for Omai; as he

prided himself in having visited a place belonging to Spain, as well as

this man. I did not meet with the other, who had returned from Lima; but

Captain Clerke, who had seen him, spoke of him as a low fellow, and as a

little out of his senses. His own countrymen, I found, agreed in the

same account of him. In short, these two adventurers seemed to be held

in no esteem. They had not, indeed, been so fortunate as to return home

with such valuable acquisitions of property as we had bestowed upon

Omai; and with the advantages he reaped from his voyage to England, it

must be his own fault if he should sink into the same state of

insignificance.

CHAP. V.

ARRIVAL AT EIMEO.—TWO HARBOURS THERE, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THEM.—VISIT FROM

MAHEINE, CHIEF OF THE ISLAND.—HIS PERSON DESCRIBED.—A GOAT STOLEN, AND

SENT BACK WITH THE THIEF.—ANOTHER GOAT STOLEN, AND SECRETED.—MEASURES

TAKEN ON THE OCCASION.—EXPEDITION CROSS THE ISLAND.—HOUSES AND CANOES

BURNT.—THE GOAT DELIVERED UP, AND PEACE RESTORED.—SOME ACCOUNT OF THE

ISLAND, &C.

As I did not give up my design of touching at Eimeo, at day-break, in

the morning of the 30th, after leaving Otaheite, I stood for the north

end of the island; the harbour, which I wished to examine, being at that

part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before us, had

taken some necessary measures to show us the place. However, we were not

without pilots, having several men of Otaheite on board, and not a few

women. Not caring to trust entirely to these guides, I sent two boats to

examine the harbour, and, on their making the signal for safe anchorage,

we stood in with the ships, and anchored close up to the head of the

inlet, in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of soft mud, and moored with

a hawser fast to the shore.

This harbour, which is called Taloo, is situated upon the north side of

the island, in the district of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. It runs in south,

or south by east, between the hills, above two miles. For security and

goodness of its bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour that I have

met with at any of the islands in this ocean; and it has this advantage

over most of them, that a ship can sail in and out with the reigning

trade-wind; so that the access and recess are equally easy. There are

several rivulets that fall into it. The one at the head is so

considerable as to admit boats to go a quarter of a mile up, where we

found the water perfectly fresh. Its banks are covered with the _pooroo_

tree, as it is called by the natives, which makes good firing, and which

they set no value upon; so that wood and water are to be got here with

great facility.

On the same side of the island, and about two miles to the eastward, is

the harbour of Parowroah, much larger within than that of Taloo; but the

entrance, or opening in the reef, (for the whole island is surrounded

with a reef of coral rock) is considerably narrower, and lies to leeward

of the harbour. These two defects are so striking, that the harbour of

Taloo must always have a decided preference. It is a little

extraordinary, that I should have been three times at Otaheite before,

and have once sent a boat to Eimeo, and yet not know till now that there

was a harbour in it; on the contrary, I always understood there was not;

whereas, there are not only the two above mentioned, but one or two more

on the south side of the island; but these last are not so considerable

as the two we have just described, and of which a sketch has been made

for the use of those who may follow us in such a voyage.

We had no sooner anchored than the ships were crowded with the

inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board; for they had nothing

with them for the purposes of barter. But, the next morning, this

deficiency was supplied; several canoes then arriving from more distant

parts, which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and

a few hogs. These they exchanged for hatchets, nails, and beads, for red

feathers were not so much sought after here as at Otaheite. The ship

being a good deal pestered with rats, I hauled her within thirty yards

of the shore, as near as the depth of water would allow, and made a path

for them to get to the land, by fastening hawsers to the trees. It is

said that this experiment has sometimes succeeded; but, I believe, we

got clear of very few, if any, of the numerous tribe that haunted us.

In the morning of the 2d, Maheine, the chief of the island, paid me a

visit. He approached the ship with great caution, and it required some

persuasion to get him on board. Probably, he was under some

apprehensions of mischief from us, as friends of the Otaheiteans; these

people not being able to comprehend how we can be friends with any one,

without adopting, at the same time, his cause against his enemies.

Maheine was accompanied by his wife, who, as I was informed, is sister

to Oamo of Otaheite, of whose death we had an account while we were at

this island. I made presents to both of them, of such things as they

seemed to set the highest value upon; and after a stay of about half an

hour, they went away. Not long after, they returned with a large hog,

which they meant as a return for my present; but I made them another

present to the full value of it. After this, they paid a visit to

Captain Clerke.

This chief, who, with a few followers, has made himself in a manner

independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is

bald-headed, which is rather an uncommon appearance in these islands at

that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to shew his head.

But whether they themselves considered this deficiency of hair as a mark

of disgrace, or whether they entertained a notion of our considering it

as such, I cannot say. We judged that the latter supposition was the

truth, from this circumstance, that they had seen us shave the head of

one of their people, whom we had caught stealing. They therefore

concluded that this was the punishment usually inflicted by us upon all

thieves; and one or two of our gentlemen, whose heads were not

over-burthened with hair, we could observe, lay under violent suspicions

of being _tetos_.

In the evening, Omai and I mounted on horseback, and took a ride along

the shore to the eastward. Our train was not very numerous, as Omai had

forbid the natives to follow us; and many complied, the fear of giving

offence getting the better of their curiosity. Towha had stationed his

fleet in this harbour; and though the war lasted but a few days, the

marks of its devastation were every where to be seen. The trees were

stripped of their fruit; and all the houses in the neighbourhood had

been pulled down or burnt.

Having employed two or three days in getting up all our spirit-casks to

tar their heads, which we found necessary to save them from the efforts

of a small insect to destroy them, we hauled the ship off into the

stream on the 6th, in the morning, intending to put to sea the next day;

but an accident happened that prevented it, and gave me a good deal of

trouble. We had sent our goats ashore in the day time to graze, with two

men to look after them; notwithstanding which precaution, the natives

had contrived to steal one of them this evening. The loss of this goat

would have been of little consequence, if it had not interfered with my

views of stocking other islands with these animals; but this being the

case, it became necessary to recover it, if possible. The next morning

we got intelligence, that it had been carried to Maheine, the chief, who

was at this time at Parowroah harbour. Two old men offered to conduct

any of my people whom I might think proper to send to him, to bring back

the goat. Accordingly, I dispatched them in a boat, charged with a

threatening message to Maheine, if the goat was not immediately given up

to me, and also the thief.

It was only the day before, that this chief had requested me to give him

two goats. But, as I could not spare them, unless at the expence of

other islands that might never have another opportunity to get any, and

had, besides, heard that there were already two upon this island, I did

not gratify him. However, to shew my inclination to assist his views in

this respect, I desired Tidooa, an Otaheite chief who was present, to

beg Otoo, in my name, to send two of these animals to Maheine; and, by

way of insuring a compliance with this request, I sent to Otoo by this

chief; a large piece of red feathers, equal to the value of the two

goats that I required. I expected that this arrangement would have been

satisfactory to Maheine and all the other chiefs of the island; but the

event showed that I was mistaken.

Not thinking that any one would dare to steal a second, at the very time

I was taking measures to recover the first, the goats were put ashore

again this morning; and in the evening a boat was sent to bring them on

board. As our people were getting them into the boat, one was carried

off undiscovered. It being immediately missed, I made no doubt of

recovering it without much trouble, as there had not been time to carry

it to any considerable distance. Ten or twelve of the natives set out

soon after, different ways, to bring it back or to look for it; for not

one of them would own that it was stolen, but all tried to persuade us

that it had strayed into the woods; and, indeed, I thought so myself. I

was convinced to the contrary, however, when I found that none of those

who went in pursuit of it returned; so that their only view was to amuse

me, till their prize was beyond my reach; and, night coming on, put a

stop to all further search. About this time the boat returned with the

other goat, bringing also one of the men who had stolen it; the first

instance of the kind that I had met with amongst these islands.

The next morning, I found that most of the inhabitants in the

neighbourhood had moved off, carrying with them a corpse which lay on a

_toopapaoo_ opposite the ship; and that Maheine himself had retired to

the most distant part of the island. It seemed now no longer doubtful,

that a plan had been laid to steal what I had refused to give; and that,

though they had restored one, they were resolved to keep the other;

which was a she-goat and big with kid. I was equally fixed in my

resolution that they should not keep it. I therefore applied to the two

old men who had been instrumental in getting back the first. They told

me, that this had been carried to Watea, a district on the south side of

the island, by Hamoa, the chief of that place; but that, if I would send

any body for it, it would be delivered up. They offered to conduct some

of my people cross the island; but on my learning from them that a boat

might go and return the same day, I sent one, with two petty officers,

Mr. Roberts and Mr. Shuttleworth; one to remain with the boat, in case

she could not get to the place, while the other should go with the

guides, and one or two of our people.

Late in the evening the boat returned, and the officers informed me,

that after proceeding as far in the boat as rocks and shoals would

permit, Mr. Shuttleworth with two marines and one of the guides landed

and travelled to Watea, to the house of Hamoa, where the people of the

place amused them for some time, by telling them that the goat would

soon be brought, and pretended they had sent for it. It, however, never

came, and the approach of night obliged Mr. Shuttleworth to return to

the boat without it.

I was now very sorry that I had proceeded so far, as I could not retreat

with any tolerable credit, and without giving encouragement to the

people of the other islands we had yet to visit, to rob us with

impunity. I asked Omai and the two old men what methods I should next

take; and they, without hesitation, advised me to go with a party of men

into the country, and shoot every soul I should meet with. This bloody

counsel I could not follow; but I resolved to march a party of men cross

the island; and at day-break the next morning, set out with thirty-five

of my people, accompanied by one of the old men, by Omai, and three or

four of his attendants. At the same time, I ordered Lieutenant

Williamson with three armed boats round the western part of the island

to meet us.

I had no sooner landed with my party, than the few natives who still

remained in the neighbourhood fled before us. The first man that we met

with upon our march, ran some risk of his life; for Omai, the moment he

saw him, asked me if he should shoot him; so fully was he persuaded that

I was going to carry his advice into execution. I immediately ordered

both him and our guide to make it known, that I did not intend to hurt,

much less to kill, a single native. These glad tidings flew before us

like lightning, and stopped the flight of the inhabitants; so that no

one quitted his house or employment afterward.

As we began to ascend the ridge of hills over which lay our road, we got

intelligence that the goat had been carried that way before us; and, as

we understood, could not as yet have passed the hills; so that we

marched up in great silence, in hopes of surprizing the party who were

bearing off the prize. But when we had got to the uppermost plantation

on side of the ridge, the people there told us, that what we were in

search of had, indeed, been kept there the first night, but had been

carried the next morning to Watea by Hamoa. We then crossed the ridge

without making any further enquiry, till we came within sight of Watea,

where some people showed us Hamoa’s house, and told us that the goat was

there, so that I made no doubt of getting it immediately upon my

arrival. But when I reached the house, to my very great surprize, the

few people we met with denied that they had ever seen it, or knew any

thing about it; even Hamoa himself came and made the same declaration.

On our first coming to the place, I observed several men running to and

fro in the woods, with clubs and bundles of darts in their hands; and

Omai, who followed them, had some stones thrown at him, so that it

seemed as if they had intended to oppose any step I should take by

force; but, on seeing my party was too strong, had dropped the design. I

was confirmed in this notion, by observing that all their houses were

empty. After getting a few of the people of the place together, I

desired Omai to expostulate with them on the absurdity of the conduct

they were pursuing; and to tell them that, from the testimony of many on

whom I could depend, I was well assured, that the goat was in their

possession, and, therefore, insisted upon its being delivered up,

otherwise I would burn their houses and canoes. But notwithstanding all

that I or Omai could say, they continued to deny their having any

knowledge of it. The consequence was, that I set fire to six or eight

houses, which were presently consumed, with two or three war-canoes that

lay contiguous to them. This done, I marched off to join the boats,

which were about seven or eight miles from us; and, in our way, we burnt

six more war-canoes, without any one attempting to oppose us; on the

contrary, many assisted, though probably, more out of fear than

good-will. In one place, Omai, who had advanced a little before, came

back with information that a great many men were getting together to

attack us. We made ready to receive them, but instead of enemies we

found petitioners with plantain-trees in their hands, which they laid

down at my feet, and begged that I would spare a canoe that lay close

by, which I readily complied with.

At length, about four in the afternoon, we got to the boats, that were

waiting at Wharrarade, the district belonging to Tiarataboonoue; but

this chief, as well as all the principal people of the place, had fled

to the hills; though I touched not a single thing that was their

property, as they were the friends of Otoo. After resting ourselves here

about an hour, we set out for the ships, where we arrived about eight

o’clock in the evening. At that time, no account of the goat had been

received; so that the operations of this day had not produced the

desired effect.

Early next morning, I dispatched one of Omai’s men to Maheine, with this

peremptory message, that if he persisted in his refusal, I would not

leave him a single canoe upon the island, and that he might expect a

continuation of hostilities as long as the stolen animal remained in his

possession. And, that the messenger might see that I was in earnest,

before he left me I sent the carpenter to break up three or four canoes

that lay ashore at the head of the harbour. The plank was carried on

board, as materials for building a house for Omai, at the place where he

intended to settle. I afterward went, properly accompanied, to the next

harbour, where we broke up three or four more canoes, and burnt an equal

number; and then returned on board about seven in the evening. On my

arrival I found that the goat had been brought back about half an hour

before; and, on enquiry, it appeared that it had come from the very

place where I had been told the day before, by the inhabitants, that

they knew nothing of it. But in consequence of the message I sent to the

chief in the morning, it was judged prudent to trifle with me no longer.

Thus ended this troublesome and rather unfortunate business; which could

not be more regretted on the part of the natives, than it was on mine.

And it grieved me to reflect, that, after refusing the pressing

solicitations of my friends at Otaheite, to favour their invasion of

this island, I should so soon find myself reduced to the necessity of

engaging in hostilities against its inhabitants, which, perhaps, did

them more mischief than they had suffered from Towha’s expedition.

The next morning our intercourse with the natives was renewed; and

several canoes brought to the ships bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts to

barter; from whence it was natural for me to draw this conclusion, that

they were conscious it was their own fault, if I had treated them with

severity; and that the cause of my displeasure being removed, they had a

full confidence that no further mischief would ensue. About nine o’clock

we weighed, with a breeze down the harbour; but it proved so faint and

variable, that it was noon before we got out to sea, when I steered for

Huaheine, attended by Omai in his canoe. He did not depend entirely upon

his own judgment, but had got on board a pilot. I observed, that they

shaped as direct a course for the island as I could do.

At Eimeo we abundantly supplied the ships with fire-wood. We had not

taken in any at Otaheite, where the procuring this article would have

been very inconvenient; there not being a tree at Matavai, but what is

useful to the inhabitants. We also got here good store of refreshments,

both in hogs and vegetables; that is, bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts; little

else being in season. I do not know that there is any difference between

the produce of this island and of Otaheite; but there is a very striking

difference in their women, that I can by no means account for. Those of

Eimeo are of low stature, have a dark hue, and, in general, forbidding

features. If we met with a fine woman amongst them, we were sure, upon

enquiry, to find that she had come from some other island.

The general appearance of Eimeo is very different from that of Otaheite.

The latter rising in one steep hilly body, has little low land, except

some deep valleys; and the flat border that surrounds the greatest part

of it, toward the sea. Eimeo, on the contrary, has hills running in

different directions, which are very steep and rugged, leaving, in the

interspaces, very large valleys, and gently-rising grounds about their

sides. These hills, though of a rocky disposition, are in general

covered almost to their tops with trees; but the lower parts, on the

sides, frequently only with fern. At the bottom of the harbour where we

lay, the ground rises gently to the foot of the hills which run across

nearly in the middle of the island; but its flat border, on each side,

at a very small distance from the sea, becomes quite steep. This gives

it a romantic cast, which renders it a prospect superior to any thing we

saw at Otaheite. The soil, about the low grounds, is a yellowish and

pretty stiff mould; but, upon the lower hills, it is blacker and more

loose; and the stone that composes the hills is, when broken, of a

blueish colour, but not very compact texture, with some particles of

_glimmer_ interspersed. These particulars seem worthy of observation.

Perhaps the reader will think differently of my judgment, when I add,

that, near the station of our ships, were two large stones, or rather

rocks, concerning which the natives have some superstitious notions.

They consider them as _Eatooas_, or divinities; saying that they are

brother and sister, and that they came, by some supernatural means, from

Ulietea.

[Illustration: _View of Huaheine._]

CHAP. VI.

ARRIVAL AT HUAHEINE.—COUNCIL OF THE CHIEFS.—OMAI’S OFFERINGS, AND SPEECH

TO THE CHIEFS.—HIS ESTABLISHMENT IN THIS ISLAND AGREED TO.—A HOUSE

BUILT, AND GARDEN PLANTED FOR HIM.—SINGULARITY OF HIS SITUATION—

MEASURES TAKEN TO INSURE HIS SAFETY.—DAMAGE DONE BY COCK-ROACHES, ON

BOARD THE SHIPS.—A THIEF DETECTED AND PUNISHED.—FIRE-WORKS EXHIBITED.—

ANIMALS LEFT WITH OMAI.—HIS FAMILY.—WEAPONS.—INSCRIPTIONS ON HIS

HOUSE.—HIS BEHAVIOUR ON THE SHIP’S LEAVING THE ISLAND.—SUMMARY VIEW OF

HIS CONDUCT AND CHARACTER.—ACCOUNT OF THE TWO NEW ZEALAND YOUTHS.

Having left Eimeo, with a gentle breeze and fine weather, at day-break

the next morning we saw Huaheine, extending from south-west by west,

half west, to west by north. At noon we anchored at the north entrance

of Owharre harbour[8], which is on the west side of the island. The

whole afternoon was spent in warping the ships into a proper birth, and

mooring. Omai entered the harbour just before us, in his canoe, but did

not land. Nor did he take much notice of any of his countrymen, though

many crowded to see him; but far more of them came off to the ships,

insomuch that we could hardly work on account of their numbers. Our

passengers presently acquainted them with what we had done at Eimeo, and

multiplied the number of houses and canoes that we had destroyed, by ten

at least. I was not sorry for this exaggerated account; as I saw that it

made a great impression upon all who heard it; so that I had hopes it

would induce the inhabitants of this island to behave better to us than

they had done during my former visits.

While I was at Otaheite, I had learned that my old friend Oree was no

longer the chief of Huaheine; and that, at this time, he resided at

Ulietea. Indeed, he never had been more than regent during the minority

of Taireetareea, the present _Earee rahie_; but he did not give up the

regency till he was forced. His two sons, Opoony and Towha, were the

first who paid me a visit, coming on board before the ship was well in

the harbour, and bringing a present with them.

Our arrival brought all the principal people of the island to our ships

on the next morning, being the 13th. This was just what I wished, as it

was high time to think of settling Omai; and the presence of these

chiefs, I guessed, would enable me to do it in the most satisfactory

manner. He now seemed to have an inclination to establish himself at

Ulietea; and if he and I could have agreed about the mode of bringing

that plan to bear, I should have had no objection to adopt it. His

father had been dispossessed by the men of Bolabola, when they conquered

Ulietea, of some land in that island; and I made no doubt of being able

to get it restored to the son in an amicable manner. For that purpose it

was necessary that he should be upon good terms with those who now were

masters of the island; but he was too great a patriot to listen to any

such thing; and was vain enough to suppose that I would reinstate him in

his forfeited lands by force. This made it impossible to fix him at

Ulietea, and pointed out to me Huaheine as the proper place. I therefore

resolved to avail myself of the presence of the chief men of the island,

and to make this proposal to them.

After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to pay a formal

visit to Taireetareea, meaning then to introduce his business. Omai

dressed himself very properly on the occasion; and prepared a handsome

present for the chief himself, and another for his _Eatooa_. Indeed,

after he had got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he

behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. Our landing drew most of

our visitors from the ships; and they, as well as those that were on

shore, assembled in a large house. The concourse of people, on this

occasion, was very great; and amongst them, there appeared to be a

greater proportion of personal men and women than we had ever seen in

one assembly at any of these new islands. Not only the bulk of the

people seemed in general much stouter and fairer than those of Otaheite,

but there was also a much greater number of men who appeared to be of

consequence, in proportion to the extent of the island; most of whom had

exactly the corpulent appearance of the chiefs of Wateeo. We waited some

time for Taireetareea, as I would do nothing till the _Earee rahie_

came; but when he appeared, I found that his presence might have been

dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who

stood at a little distance from this circle of great men, began with

making his offering to the gods, consisting of red feathers, cloth, &c.

Then followed another offering, which was to be given to the gods by the

chief; and, after that, several other small pieces and tufts of red

feathers were presented. Each article was laid before one of the

company, who, I understood, was a priest, and was delivered with a set

speech or prayer, spoken by one of Omai’s friends, who sat by him, but

mostly dictated by himself. In these prayers, he did not forget his

friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe back. The _Earee

rahie no Pretane_, Lord Sandwich, _Toote_, _Tatee_[9], were mentioned in

every one of them. When Omai’s offerings and prayers were finished, the

priest took each article, in the same order in which it had been laid

before him, and after repeating a prayer, sent it to the _morai_; which,

as Omai told us, was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings would

have been made there.

These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai sat down by me,

and we entered upon business, by giving the young chief my present, and

receiving his in return; and, all things considered, they were liberal

enough on both sides. Some arrangements were next agreed upon, as to the

manner of carrying on the intercourse betwixt us; and I pointed out the

mischievous consequences that would attend their robbing us, as they had

done during my former visits. Omai’s establishment was then proposed to

the assembled chiefs.

He acquainted them, “That he had been carried by us into our country,

where he was well received by the great king and his _Earees_, and

treated with every mark of regard and affection, while he staid amongst

us; that he had been brought back again, enriched by our liberality with

a variety of articles, which would prove very useful to his countrymen;

and that, besides the two horses which were to remain with him, several

other new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, which would

soon multiply, and furnish a sufficient number for the use of all the

islands in the neighbourhood. He then signified to them, that it was my

earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, that they would

give him a piece of land, to build a house upon, and to raise provisions

for himself and servants; adding, that, if this could not be obtained

for him at Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I was determined to

carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there.”

Perhaps I have here made a better speech for my friend, than he actually

delivered; but these were the topics I dictated to him. I observed, that

what he concluded with, about carrying him to Ulietea, seemed to meet

with the approbation of all the chiefs; and I instantly saw the reason.

Omai had, as I have already mentioned, vainly flattered himself, that I

meant to use force in restoring him to his father’s lands in Ulietea,

and he had talked idly, and without any authority from me, on this

subject, to some of the present assembly; who dreamed of nothing less

than a hostile invasion of Ulietea, and of being assisted by me to drive

the Bolabola men out of that island. It was of consequence, therefore,

that I should undeceive them; and in order to this, I signified, in the

most peremptory manner, that I neither would assist them in such an

enterprize, nor suffer it to be put in execution, while I was in their

seas; and that, if Omai fixed himself in Ulietea, he must be introduced

as a friend, and not forced upon the Bolabola men as their conqueror.

This declaration gave a new turn to the sentiments of the council. One

of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this effect: “That the

whole island of Huaheine, and every thing in it, were mine; and that,

therefore, I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend.”

Omai, who like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees things beyond the

present moment, was greatly pleased to hear this; thinking, no doubt,

that I should be very liberal, and give him enough. But to offer what it

would have been improper to accept, I considered as offering nothing at

all; and, therefore, I now desired, that they would not only assign the

particular spot, but also the exact quantity of land which they would

allot for the settlement. Upon this, some chiefs, who had already left

the assembly, were sent for; and after a short consultation among

themselves, my request was granted by general consent; and the ground

immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where our meeting was

held. The extent, along the shore of the harbour, was about two hundred

yards; and its depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more; but a

proportional part of the hill was included in the grant.

This business being settled to the satisfaction of all parties, I set up

a tent ashore, established a post, and erected the observatories. The

carpenters of both ships were also set to work, to build a small house

for Omai, in which he might secure the European commodities that were

his property. At the same time, some hands were employed in making a

garden for his use, planting shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, melons, and

the seeds of several other vegetable articles; all of which I had the

satisfaction of observing to be in a flourishing state before I left the

island.

Omai now began seriously to attend to his own affairs, and repented

heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at Otaheite. He found at

Huaheine, a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law; the sister being

married. But these did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his

other relations. I was sorry, however, to discover, that, though they

were too honest to do him any injury, they were of too little

consequence in the island to do him any positive good. They had neither

authority nor influence to protect his person or his property; and, in

that helpless situation, I had reason to apprehend, that he ran great

risk of being stripped of every thing he had got from us, as soon as he

should cease to have us within his reach, to enforce the good behaviour

of his countrymen, by an immediate appeal to our irresistible power.

A man who is richer than his neighbours is sure to be envied by numbers

who wish to see him brought down to their own level. But in countries

where civilization, law, and religion, impose their restraints, the rich

have a reasonable ground of security. And, besides, there being, in all

such communities, a diffusion of property, no single individual need

fear, that the efforts of all the poorer sort can ever be united to

injure him, exclusively of others who are equally the objects of envy.

It was very different with Omai. He was to live amongst those who are

strangers, in a great measure, to any other principle of action besides

the immediate impulse of their natural feelings. But what was his

principal danger, he was to be placed in the very singular situation, of

being the only rich man in the community to which he was to belong; and

having, by a fortunate connection with us, got into his possession an

accumulated quantity of a species of treasure which none of his

countrymen could create by any art or industry of their own: while all

coveted a share of this envied wealth, it was natural to apprehend, that

all would be ready to join in attempting to strip its sole proprietor.

To prevent this, if possible, I desired him to make a proper

distribution of some of his moveables to two or three of the principal

chiefs; who, being thus gratified themselves, might be induced to take

him under their patronage, and protect him from the injuries of others.

He promised to follow my advice; and I heard, with satisfaction, before

I sailed, that this very prudent step had been taken. Not trusting,

however, entirely to the operation of gratitude, I had recourse to the

more forcible motive of intimidation. With this view, I took every

opportunity of notifying to the inhabitants, that it was my intention to

return to their island again, after being absent the usual time; and

that if I did not find Omai in the same state of security in which I was

now to leave him, all those whom I should then discover to have been his

enemies, might expect to feel the weight of my resentment. This

threatening declaration will probably have no inconsiderable effect; for

our successive visits of late years have taught these people to believe,

that our ships are to return at certain periods; and while they continue

to be impressed with such a notion, which I thought it a fair stratagem

to confirm, Omai has some prospect of being permitted to thrive upon his

new plantation.

While we lay in this harbour, we carried ashore the bread, remaining in

the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. The number of cock-roaches that

infested the ship at this time is incredible. The damage they did us was

very considerable; and every method devised by us to destroy them proved

ineffectual. These animals, which, at first, were a nuisance, like all

other insects, had now become a real pest; and so destructive, that few

things were free from their ravages. If food of any kind was exposed

only for a few minutes, it was covered with them; and they soon pierced

it full of holes resembling a honeycomb. They were particularly

destructive to birds, which had been stuffed and preserved as

curiosities; and, what was worse, were uncommonly fond of ink; so that

the writing on the labels, fastened to different articles, was quite

eaten out; and the only thing that preserved books from them, was the

closeness of the binding, which prevented these devourers getting

between the leaves. According to Mr. Anderson’s observations, they were

of two sorts, the _blatta orientalis_ and _germanica_. The first of

these had been carried home in the ship from her former voyage, where

they withstood the severity of the hard winter in 1776, though she was

in dock all the time. The others had only made their appearance since

our leaving New Zealand; but had increased so fast, that they now not

only did all the mischief mentioned above, but had even got amongst the

rigging; so that when a sail was loosened, thousands of them fell upon

the decks. The _orientales_, though in infinite numbers, scarcely came

out but in the night, when they made every thing in the cabins seem as

if in motion, from the particular noise in crawling about. And, besides

their disagreeable appearance, they did great mischief to our bread,

which was so bespattered with their excrement, that it would have been

badly relished by delicate feeders.

The intercourse of trade and friendly offices was carried on between us

and the natives without being disturbed by any one accident till the

evening of the 22d, when a man found means to get into Mr. Bayly’s

observatory, and to carry off a sextant unobserved. As soon as I was

made acquainted with the theft, I went ashore, and got Omai to apply to

the chiefs, to procure restitution. He did so; but they took no steps

toward it, being more attentive to a _heeva_ that was then acting, till

I ordered the performers of the exhibition to desist. They were now

convinced, that I was in earnest, and began to make some enquiry after

the thief, who was sitting in the midst of them quite unconcerned,

inasmuch that I was in great doubt of his being the guilty person;

especially as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring me that he was the

man, I sent him on board the ship, and there confined him. This raised a

general ferment amongst the assembled natives; and the whole body fled,

in spite of all my endeavours to stop them. Having employed Omai to

examine the prisoner, with some difficulty he was brought to confess

where he had laid the sextant; but, as it was now dark, he could not

find it till day-light the next morning, when it was brought back

unhurt. After this, the natives recovered from their fright, and began

to gather about us as usual. And as to the thief, he appearing to be a

hardened scoundrel, I punished him more severely than I had done any

culprit before. Besides having his head and beard shaved, I ordered both

his ears to be cut off, and then dismissed him.

This, however, did not deter him from giving us farther trouble; for, in

the night between the 24th and 25th, a general alarm was spread,

occasioned, as was said, by one of our goats being stolen by this very

man. On examination, we found that all was safe in that quarter.

Probably, the goats were so well guarded, that he could not put his

design in execution. But his hostilities had succeeded against another

object; and it appeared, that he had destroyed and carried off several

vines and cabbage-plants in Omai’s grounds; and he publicly threatened

to kill him, and to burn his house, as soon as we should leave the

island. To prevent the fellow’s doing me and Omai any more mischief, I

had him seized and confined on board the ship, with a view of carrying

him off the island; and it seemed to give general satisfaction to the

chiefs, that I meant thus to dispose of him. He was from Bolabola; but

there were too many of the natives here ready to assist him in any of

his designs, whenever he should think of executing them. I had always

met with more troublesome people in Huaheine, than in any other of the

neighbouring islands; and it was only fear and the want of opportunities

that induced them to behave better now. Anarchy seemed to prevail

amongst them. Their nominal sovereign, the _Earee rahie_, as I have

before observed, was but a child; and I did not find, that there was any

one man, or set of men, who managed the government for him; so that,

whenever any misunderstanding happened between us, I never knew, with

sufficient precision, where to make application, in order to bring about

an accommodation, or to procure redress. The young chief’s mother would,

indeed, sometimes exert herself; but I did not perceive that she had

greater authority than many others.

Omai’s house being nearly finished, many of his moveables were carried

ashore on the 26th. Amongst a variety of other useless articles, was a

box of toys, which, when exposed to public view, seemed greatly to

please the gazing multitude. But as to his pots, kettles, dishes,

plates, drinking-mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our domestic

accommodations, hardly any one of his countrymen would so much as look

at them. Omai himself now began to think that they were of no manner of

use to him; that a baked hog was more savoury food than a boiled one;

that a plantain-leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewter; and that a

cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as a black-jack. And,

therefore, he very wisely disposed of as many of these articles of

English furniture for the kitchen and pantry, as he could find

purchasers for, amongst the people of the ships; receiving from them, in

return, hatchets, and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic value

in this part of the world, and added more to his distinguishing

superiority over those with whom he was to pass the remainder of his

days.

In the long list of the presents bestowed upon him in England,

fire-works had not been forgot. Some of these we exhibited in the

evening of the 28th, before a great concourse of people, who beheld them

with a mixture of pleasure and fear. What remained, after the evening’s

entertainment, were put in order, and left with Omai, agreeably to their

original destination. Perhaps we need not lament it as a serious

misfortune, that the far greater share of this part of his cargo had

been already expended in exhibitions at other islands, or rendered

useless by being kept so long.

Between midnight and four in the morning of the 30th, the Bolabola man,

whom I had in confinement, found means to make his escape out of the

ship. He carried with him the shackle of the bilboo-bolt that was about

his leg, which was taken from him, as soon as he got on shore, by one of

the chiefs, and given to Omai; who came on board very early in the

morning, to acquaint me that his mortal enemy was again let loose upon

him. Upon enquiry, it appeared, that not only the sentry, placed over

the prisoner, but the whole watch upon the quarter-deck where he was

confined, had laid themselves down to sleep. He seized the opportunity

to take the key of the irons out of the binnacle-drawer, where he had

seen it put, and set himself at liberty. This escape convinced me, that

my people had been very remiss in their night-duty; which made it

necessary to punish those who were now in fault, and to establish some

new regulations to prevent the like negligence for the future. I was not

a little pleased to hear afterward, that the fellow who escaped, had

transported himself to Ulietea; in this, seconding my views of putting

him a second time in irons.

As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, I began to think of

leaving the island; and got every thing off from the shore this evening,

except the horse and mare, and a goat big with kid; which were left in

the possession of our friend, with whom we were now finally to part. I

also gave him a boar and two sows of the English breed; and he had got a

sow or two of his own. The horse covered the mare while we were at

Otaheite; so that I consider the introduction of a breed of horses into

these islands, as likely to have succeeded by this valuable present.

The history of Omai will, perhaps, interest a very numerous class of

readers, more than any other occurrence of a voyage, the objects of

which do not, in general, promise much entertainment. Every

circumstance, therefore, which may serve to convey a satisfactory

account of the exact situation in which he was left will be thought

worth preserving; and the following particulars are added, to complete

the view of his domestic establishment. He had picked up at Otaheite

four or five _Toutous_; the two New Zealand youths remained with him;

and his brother, and some others, joined him at Huaheine; so that his

family consisted already of eight or ten persons; if that can be called

a family, to which not a single female as yet belonged; nor, I doubt,

was likely to belong, unless its master became less volatile. At

present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto himself a wife.

The house which we erected for him, was twenty-four feet by eighteen;

and ten feet high. It was composed of boards, the spoils of our military

operations at Eimeo; and, in building it, as few nails as possible, were

used, that there might be no inducement, from the love of iron, to pull

it down. It was settled, that immediately after our departure, he should

begin to build a large house after the fashion of his country; one end

of which was to be brought over that which we had erected, so as to

enclose it entirely for greater security. In this work, some of the

chiefs promised to assist him; and, if the intended building should

cover the ground which he marked out, it will be as large as most upon

the island.

His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch-box; a

fowling-piece; two pair of pistols; and two or three swords or

cutlasses. The possession of these made him quite happy; which was my

only view in giving him such presents. For I was always of opinion, that

he would have been happier without fire-arms, and other European

weapons, than with them; as such implements of war, in the hands of one,

whose prudent use of them I had some grounds for mistrusting, would

rather encrease his dangers than establish his superiority. After he had

got on shore every thing that belonged to him, and was settled in his

house, he had most of the officers of both ships, two or three times, to

dinner; and his table was always well supplied with the very best

provisions that the island produced.

Before I sailed, I had the following inscription cut upon the outside of

his house:

_Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777._

_Naves_ } _Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr._

} _Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr._

On the second of November, at four in the afternoon, I took the

advantage of a breeze, which then sprung up at east, and sailed out of

the harbour. Most of our friends remained on board till the ships were

under sail; when, to gratify their curiosity, I ordered five guns to be

fired. They then all took their leave, except Omai, who remained till we

were at sea. We had come to sail by a hawser fastened to the shore. In

casting the ship, it parted, being cut by the rocks, and the outer end

was left behind; as those who cast it off, did not perceive that it was

broken; so that it became necessary to send a boat to bring it on board.

In this boat, Omai went ashore, after taking a very affectionate

farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with a manly

resolution, till he came to me. Then his utmost efforts to conceal his

tears failed; and Mr. King, who went in the boat, told me, that he wept

all the time in going ashore.

It was no small satisfaction to reflect, that we had brought him safe

back to the very spot from which he was taken. And yet, such is the

strange nature of human affairs, that it is probable we left him in a

less desirable situation, than he was in before his connexion with us. I

do not by this mean, that, because he has tasted the sweets of civilised

life, he must become more miserable from being obliged to abandon all

thoughts of continuing them. I confine myself to this single

disagreeable circumstance, that the advantages he received from us, have

placed him in a more hazardous situation, with respect to his personal

safety. Omai, from being much caressed in England, lost sight of his

original condition; and never considered in what manner his

acquisitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be estimated by

his countrymen at his return; which were the only things he could have

to recommend him to them now, more than before, and on which he could

build either his future greatness or happiness. He seemed even to have

mistaken their genius in this respect; and, in some measure, to have

forgotten their customs; otherwise he must have known the extreme

difficulty there would be in getting himself admitted as a person of

rank, where there is, perhaps, no instance of a man’s being raised from

an inferior station by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the very

foundation of all distinction here, and, of its attendant, power; and so

pertinaciously, or rather blindly adhered to, that, unless a person has

some degree of it, he will certainly be despised and hated, if he

assumes the appearance of exercising any authority. This was really the

case, in some measure, with Omai; though his countrymen were pretty

cautious of expressing their sentiments while we remained among them.

Had he made a proper use of the presents he brought with him from

England, this, with the knowledge he had acquired by travelling so far,

might have enabled him to form the most useful connections; but we have

given too many instances, in the course of our narrative, of his

childish inattention to this obvious means of advancing his interest.

His schemes seemed to be of a higher, though ridiculous nature; indeed,

I might say, meaner; for revenge, rather than a desire of becoming

great, appeared to actuate him from the beginning. This, however, may be

excused, if we consider that it is common to his countrymen. His father

was, doubtless, a man of considerable property in Ulietea, when that

island was conquered by those of Bolabola, and, with many others, sought

refuge in Huaheine, where he died, and left Omai with some other

children, who by that means became totally dependent. In this situation

he was taken up by Captain Furneaux, and carried to England. Whether he

really expected, from his treatment there, that any assistance would be

given him against the enemies of his father and his country, or whether

he imagined that his own personal courage and superiority of knowledge

would be sufficient to dispossess the conquerors of Ulietea, is

uncertain; but, from the beginning of the voyage, this was his constant

theme. He would not listen to our remonstrances on so wild a

determination, but flew into a passion, if more moderate and reasonable

counsels were proposed for his advantage. Nay, so infatuated and

attached to his favourite scheme was he, that he affected to believe

these people would certainly quit the conquered island, as soon as they

should hear of his arrival at Otaheite. As we advanced, however, on our

voyage, he became more sensible of his error; and, by the time we

reached the Friendly Islands, had even such apprehensions of his

reception at home, that, as I have mentioned in my journal, he would

fain have staid behind at Tongataboo, under Feenou’s protection. At

these islands he squandered away much of his European treasure very

unnecessarily; and he was equally imprudent, as I also took notice of

above, at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of making friends, as he

had not any intention of remaining there. At Matavai, he continued the

same inconsiderate behaviour, till I absolutely put a stop to his

profusion; and he formed such improper connections there, that Otoo, who

was at first much disposed to countenance him, afterward openly

expressed his dislike of him, on account of his conduct. It was not,

however, too late to recover his favour; and he might have settled to

great advantage in Otaheite, as he had formerly lived several years

there, and was now a good deal noticed by Towha, whose valuable present

of a very large double canoe we have seen above. The objection to

admitting him to some rank would have also been much lessened, if he had

fixed at Otaheite; as a native will always find it more difficult to

accomplish such a change of state amongst his countrymen, than a

stranger, who naturally claims respect. But Omai remained undetermined

to the last, and would not, I believe, have adopted my plan of

settlement in Huaheine, if I had not so explicitly refused to employ

force in restoring him to his father’s possessions. Whether the remains

of his European wealth, which, after all his improvident waste, was

still considerable, will be more prudently administered by him, or

whether the steps I took, as already explained, to insure him protection

in Huaheine, shall have proved effectual, must be left to the decision

of future navigators of this ocean, with whom it cannot but be a

principal object of curiosity to trace the future fortunes of our

traveller. At present, I can only conjecture, that his greatest danger

will arise from the very impolitic declarations of his antipathy to the

inhabitants of Bolabola; for these people, from a principle of jealousy,

will, no doubt, endeavour to render him obnoxious to those of Huaheine;

as they are at peace with that island at present, and may easily effect

their designs, many of them living there. This is a circumstance which,

of all others, he might the most easily have avoided; for they were not

only free from any aversion to him, but the person mentioned before,

whom we found at Tiaraboo as an ambassador, priest, or god, absolutely

offered to reinstate him in the property that was formerly his father’s.

But he refused this peremptorily; and, to the very last, continued

determined to take the first opportunity that offered of satisfying his

revenge in battle. To this, I guess, he is not a little spurred by the

coat of mail he brought from England; clothed in which, and in

possession of some fire-arms, he fancies that he shall be invincible.

Whatever faults belonged to Omai’s character, they were more than

overbalanced by his great good nature and docile disposition. During the

whole time he was with me, I very seldom had reason to be seriously

displeased with his general conduct. His grateful heart always retained

the highest sense of the favours he had received in England; nor will he

ever forget those who honoured him with their protection and friendship,

during his stay there. He had a tolerable share of understanding, but

wanted application and perseverance to exert it; so that his knowledge

of things was very general, and, in many instances, imperfect. He was

not a man of much observation. There were many useful arts, as well as

elegant amusements, amongst the people of the Friendly Islands, which he

might have conveyed to his own, where they probably would have been

readily adopted, as being so much in their own way. But I never found

that he used the least endeavour to make himself master of any one. This

kind of indifference is, indeed, the characteristic foible of his

nation. Europeans have visited them, at times, for these ten years past;

yet we could not discover the slightest trace of any attempt to profit

by this intercourse; nor have they hitherto copied after us in any one

thing. We are not, therefore, to expect that Omai will be able to

introduce many of our arts and customs among them, or much improve those

to which they have been long habituated. I am confident, however, that

he will endeavour to bring to perfection the various fruits and

vegetables we planted, which will be no small acquisition. But the

greatest benefit these islands are likely to receive from Omai’s

travels, will be in the animals that have been left upon them, which,

probably, they never would have got, had he not come to England. When

these multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite and the

Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, any place in the known world

for provisions.

Omai’s return, and the substantial proofs he brought back with him of

our liberality, encouraged many to offer themselves as volunteers to

attend me to _Pretane_. I took every opportunity of expressing my

determination to reject all such applications. But, notwithstanding

this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only great

traveller, being afraid lest I might be prevailed upon to put others in

a situation of rivalling him, frequently put me in mind, that Lord

Sandwich had told him no others of his countrymen were to come to

England.

If there had been the most distant probability any ship being again sent

to New Zealand, I would have brought the two youths of that country home

with me, as both of them were very desirous of continuing with us.

Tiarooa, the eldest, was an exceedingly well disposed young man, with

strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction. He

seemed to be fully sensible of the inferiority of his own country to

these islands, and resigned himself, though perhaps with reluctance, to

end his days in ease and plenty in Huaheine. But the other was so

strongly attached to us, that he was taken out of the ship, and carried

ashore by force. He was a witty, smart boy; and on that account much

noticed on board.

CHAP. VII.

ARRIVAL AT ULIETEA.—ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS.—A MARINE DESERTS, AND IS

DELIVERED UP.—INTELLIGENCE FROM OMAI.—INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN CLERKE.—

ANOTHER DESERTION OF A MIDSHIPMAN AND A SEAMAN.—THREE OF THE CHIEF

PERSONS OF THE ISLAND CONFINED ON THAT ACCOUNT.—A DESIGN TO SEIZE

CAPTAINS COOK AND CLERKE DISCOVERED.—THE TWO DESERTERS BROUGHT BACK,

AND THE PRISONERS RELEASED.—THE SHIPS SAIL.—REFRESHMENTS RECEIVED AT

ULIETEA.—PRESENT AND FORMER STATE OF THAT ISLAND.—ACCOUNT OF ITS

DETHRONED KING, AND OF THE LATE REGENT OF HUAHEINE.

The boat which carried Omai ashore never to join us again, having

returned to the ship with the remainder of the hawser, we hoisted her

in, and immediately stood over for Ulietea, where I intended to touch

next. At ten o’clock at night, we brought to till four the next morning,

when we made sail round the south end of the island for the harbour of

Ohamaneno.[10] We met with calms and light airs of wind from different

directions, by turns, so that at noon we were still a league from the

entrance of the harbour. While we were thus detained, my old friend

Oreo, chief of the island, with his son, and Pootoe, his son-in-law,

came off to visit us.

Being resolved to push for the harbour, I ordered all the boats to be

hoisted out, and sent them a-head to tow, being assisted by a slight

breeze from the southward. This breeze failed too soon, and being

succeeded by one from the east, which blew right out of the harbour, we

were obliged to come to an anchor, at its entrance, at two o’clock, and

to warp in, which employed us till night set in. As soon as we were

within the harbour, the ships were surrounded with canoes filled with

people, who brought hogs and fruit to barter with us for our

commodities; so that, wherever we went, we found plenty.

Next morning, being the 4th, I moored the ship, head and stern, close to

the north shore, at the head of the harbour; hauled up the cables on

deck; and opened one of the ballast-ports. From this a slight stage was

made to the land, being at the distance of about twenty feet, with a

view to get clear of some of the rats that continued to infest us. The

Discovery moored alongside the south shore for the same purpose. While

this work was going forward, I returned Oreo’s visit. The present I made

him, on the occasion, consisted of a linen gown, a shirt, a

red-feathered cap from Tongataboo, and other things of less value. I

then brought him, and some of his friends, on board to dinner.

On the 6th, we set up the observatories, and got the necessary

instruments on shore. The two following days, we observed the sun’s

azimuths, both on board and ashore, with all the compasses, in order to

find the variation; and in the night of the latter, we observed an

occultation of ς _Capricorni_, by the moon’s dark limb. Mr. Bayly and I

agreed in fixing the time of its happening at six minutes and fifty-four

seconds and a half past ten o’clock. Mr. King made it half a second

sooner. Mr. Bayly observed with the achromatic telescope belonging to

the Board of Longitude; Mr. King, with the reflector belonging to the

board; and I made use of my own reflector, of eighteen inches. There was

also an immersion of π _Capricorni_ behind the moon’s dark limb, some

time before; but it was observed by Mr. Bayly alone. I attempted to

trace it, with a small achromatic; but found its magnifying power not

sufficient.

Nothing worthy of note happened, till the night between the 12th and

13th, when John Harrison, a marine, who was sentinel at the observatory,

deserted; carrying with him his musket and accoutrements. Having in the

morning got intelligence which way he had moved off, a party was sent

after him; but they returned in the evening, after an ineffectual

enquiry and search. The next day, I applied to the chief to interest

himself in this matter. He promised to send a party of his men after

him, and gave me hopes that he should be brought back the same day. But

this did not happen; and I had reason to suspect that no steps had been

taken by him. We had, at this time, a great number of the natives about

the ships, and some thefts were committed; the consequence of which

being dreaded by them, very few visitors came near us the next morning.

The chief himself joined in the alarm, and he and his whole family fled.

I thought this a good opportunity to oblige them to deliver up the

deserter; and having got intelligence that he was at a place called

Hamoa, on the other side of the island, I went thither with two armed

boats, accompanied by one of the natives; and, in our way, we found the

chief, who also embarked with me. I landed about a mile and a half from

the place, with a few people, and marched quickly up to it, lest the

sight of the boats should give the alarm, and allow the man time to

escape to the mountains. But this precaution was unnecessary; for the

natives there had got information of my coming, and were prepared to

deliver him up.

I found Harrison, with the musket lying before him, sitting down between

two women, who, the moment that I entered the house, rose up to plead in

his behalf. As it was highly proper to discourage such proceedings, I

frowned upon them, and bid them begone. Upon this they burst into tears,

and walked off. Paha, the chief of the district, now came with a

plantain tree, and a sucking pig, which he would have presented to me,

as a peace-offering. I rejected it, and ordered him out of my sight; and

having embarked with the deserter on board the first boat that arrived,

returned to the ships. After this, harmony was again restored. The

fellow had nothing to say in his defence, but that the natives had

enticed him away; and this might in part be true, as it was certain that

Paha, and also the two women above mentioned, had been at the ship the

day before he deserted. As it appeared that he had remained upon his

post till within a few minutes of the time when he was to have been

relieved, the punishment that I inflicted upon him was not very severe.

Though we had separated from Omai, we were still near enough to have

intelligence of his proceeding; and I had desired to hear from him.

Accordingly, about a fortnight after our arrival at Ulietea, he sent two

of his people in a canoe; who brought me the satisfactory intelligence,

that he remained undisturbed by the people of the island, and that every

thing went well with him, except that his goat had died in kidding. He

accompanied this intelligence with a request, that I would send him

another goat, and two axes. Being happy to have this additional

opportunity of serving him, the messengers were sent back to Huaheine,

on the 18th, with the axes, and two kids, male and female, which were

spared for him out of the Discovery.

The next day, I delivered to captain Clerke instructions how to proceed,

in case of being separated from me, after leaving these islands; and it

may not be improper to give them a place here.

_By Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majesty’s

Sloop the Resolution._

“Whereas the passage from the Society Islands to the northern coast of

America, is of considerable length, both in distance and in time, and as

a part of it must be performed in the very depth of winter, when gales

of wind and bad weather must be expected, and may, possibly, occasion a

separation, you are to take all imaginable care to prevent this. But if,

notwithstanding all our endeavours to keep company, you should be

separated from me, you are first to look for me where you last saw me.

Not seeing me in five days, you are to proceed (as directed by the

instructions of their lordships, a copy of which you have already

received) for the coast of New Albion; endeavouring to fall in with it

in the latitude of 45°.

“In that latitude, and at a convenient distance from the land, you are

to cruize for me ten days. Not seeing me in that time, you are to put

into the first convenient port, in or to the north of that latitude, to

recruit your wood and water, and to procure refreshments.

“During your stay in port, you are constantly to keep a good look-out

for me. It will be necessary, therefore, to make choice of a station,

situated as near the sea-coast as is possible, the better to enable you

to see me, when I shall appear in the offing.

“If I do not join you before the 1st of next April, you are to put to

sea, and proceed northward to the latitude 56°; in which latitude, and

at a convenient distance from the coast, never exceeding fifteen

leagues, you are to cruize for me till the 10th of May.

“Not seeing me in that time, you are to proceed northward, and endeavour

to find a passage into the Atlantic Ocean, through Hudson’s or Baffin’s

Bays, as directed by the above mentioned instructions.

“But if you should fail in finding a passage through either of the said

bays, or by any other way, as the season of the year may render it

unsafe for you to remain in high latitudes, you are to repair to the

harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, in order to refresh

your people, and to pass the winter.

“But, nevertheless, if you find that you cannot procure the necessary

refreshments at the said port, you are at liberty to go where you shall

judge most proper; taking care, before you depart, to leave with the

governor an account of your intended destination, to be delivered to me

upon my arrival: And in the spring of the ensuing year, 1779, you are to

repair back to the above mentioned port, endeavouring to be there by the

10th of May, or sooner.

“If, on your arrival, you receive no orders from, or account of me, so

as to justify your pursuing any other measures than what are pointed out

in the before-mentioned instructions, your future proceedings are to be

governed by them.

“You are also to comply with such parts of said instructions, as have

not been executed, and are not contrary to these orders. And in case of

your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these, and the

instructions of their lordships, into execution, you are to be careful

to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required

to execute them in the best manner he can.

“Given under my hand, on board the Resolution, at Ulietea, the 18th day

of November, 1777.

J. COOK.”

“_To Captain Charles Clerke, Commander of

his Majesty’s Sloop the Discovery._”

While we lay moored to the shore, we heeled, and scrubbed both sides of

the bottoms of the ships. At the same time, we fixed some tin-plates

under the binds; first taking off the old sheathing, and putting in a

piece unfilled, over which the plates were nailed. These plates I had

from the ingenious Mr. Pelham, secretary to the commissioners for

victualling his Majesty’s navy; with a view of trying whether tin would

answer the same end as copper, on the bottoms of ships.

On the 24th, in the morning, I was informed that a midshipman and a

seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were missing. Soon after, we

learnt from the natives, that they went away in a canoe the preceding

evening, and were, at this time, at the other end of the island. As the

midshipman was known to have expressed a desire to remain at these

islands, it seemed pretty certain, that he and his companion had gone

off with this intention; and captain Clerke set out in quest of them

with two armed boats, and a party of marines. His expedition proved

fruitless; for he returned in the evening, without having got any

certain intelligence where they were. From the conduct of the natives,

captain Clerke seemed to think, that they intended to conceal the

deserters; and, with that view, had amused him with false information

the whole day, and directed him to search for them in places where they

were not to be found. The captain judged right; for the next morning we

were told, that our runaways were at Otaha. As these two were not the

only persons in the ships who wished to end their days at these

favourite islands, in order to put a stop to any further desertion, it

was necessary to get them back at all events; and that the natives might

be convinced that I was in earnest, I resolved to go after them myself;

having observed, from repeated instances, that they seldom offered to

deceive me with false information.

Accordingly, I set out, the next morning, with two armed boats; being

accompanied by the chief himself. I proceeded, as he directed, without

stopping any where, till we came to the middle of the east side of

Otaha. There we put ashore; and Oreo dispatched a man before us, with

orders to seize the deserters, and keep them till we should arrive with

the boats. But when we got to the place where we expected to find them,

we were told, that they had quitted this island, and gone over to

Bolabola the day before. I did not think proper to follow them thither,

but returned to the ships; fully determined, however, to have recourse

to a measure, which, I guessed, would oblige the natives to bring them

back.

In the night, Mr. Bayly, Mr. King, and myself observed an immersion of

Jupiter’s third satellite. It happened by the observation of

Mr. Bayly, at 2^h 37^m 54^s }

Mr. King, at 2 37 24 } in the morning.

Myself, at 2 37 44 }

Mr. Bayly and Mr. King observed, with Dollond’s three and a half feet

achromatic telescope, and with the greatest magnifying power. I

observed, with a two-feet Gregorian reflector, made by Bird.

Soon after day-break, the chief, his son, daughter, and son-in-law, came

on board the Resolution. The three last I resolved to detain, till the

two deserters should be brought back. With this view, captain Clerke

invited them to go on board his ship; and as soon as they arrived there,

confined them in his cabin. The chief was with me when the news reached

him. He immediately acquainted me with it, supposing that this step had

been taken without my knowledge, and consequently without my

approbation. I instantly undeceived him; and then he began to have

apprehensions as to his own situation, and his looks expressed the

utmost perturbation of mind. But I soon made him easy as to this, by

telling him, that he was at liberty to leave the ship whenever he

pleased, and to take such measures as he should judge best calculated to

get our two men back; that, if he succeeded, his friends on board the

Discovery should be delivered up; if not, that I was determined to carry

them away with me. I added, that his own conduct, as well as that of

many of his people, in not only assisting these two men to escape, but

in being, even at this very time, assiduous in enticing others to follow

them, would justify any step I could take to put a stop to such

proceedings.

This explanation of the motives upon which I acted, and which we found

means to make Oreo and his people, who were present, fully comprehend,

seemed to recover them, in a great measure, from that general

consternation into which they were at first thrown. But, if relieved

from apprehensions about their own safety, they continued under the

deepest concern for those who were prisoners. Many of them went under

the Discovery’s stern in canoes, to bewail their captivity, which they

did with long and loud exclamations. _Poedooa!_ for so the chief’s

daughter was called, resounded from every quarter; and the women seemed

to vie with each other in mourning her fate, with more significant

expressions of their grief than tears and cries; for there were many

bloody heads upon the occasion.

Oreo himself did not give way to unavailing lamentations, but instantly

began his exertions to recover our deserters, by dispatching a canoe to

Bolabola, with a message to Opoony, the sovereign of that island,

acquainting him with what had happened, and requesting him to seize the

two fugitives, and send them back. The messenger, who was no less a man

than the father of Pootoe, Oreo’s son-in-law, before he set out, came to

receive my commands. I strictly enjoined him not to return without the

deserters; and to tell Opoony from me, that if they had left Bolabola,

he must send canoes to bring them back; for I suspected that they would

not long remain in one place.

The consequence, however, of the prisoners was so great, that the

natives did not think proper to trust to the return of our people for

their release; or, at least, their impatience was so great, that it

hurried them to make an attempt which might have involved them in still

greater distress, had it not been fortunately prevented. Between five

and six o’clock in the evening, I observed that all their canoes in and

about the harbour began to move off; as if some sudden panic had seized

them. I was ashore, abreast of the ship at the time, and enquired in

vain to find out the cause; till our people called to us from the

Discovery, and told us that a party of the natives had seized Captain

Clerke and Mr. Gore, who had walked out a little way from the ships.

Struck with the boldness of this plan of retaliation, which seemed to

counteract me so effectually in my own way, there was no time to

deliberate. I instantly ordered the people to arm; and, in less than

five minutes, a strong party, under the command of Mr. King, was sent to

rescue our two gentlemen. At the same time, two armed boats and a party

under Mr. Williamson went after the flying canoes, to cut off their

retreat to the shore. These several detachments were hardly out of

sight, before an account arrived, that we had been misinformed; upon

which I sent and called them all in.

It was evident, however, from several corroborating circumstances, that

the design of seizing Captain Clerke had really been in agitation

amongst the natives. Nay, they made no secret in speaking of it the next

day. But their first and great plan of operations was to have laid hold

of me. It was my custom every evening to bathe in the fresh water. Very

often I went alone, and always without arms. Expecting me to go as usual

this evening, they had determined to seize me, and Captain Clerke too,

if he had accompanied me. But I had, after confining Oreo’s family,

thought it prudent to avoid putting myself in their power; and had

cautioned Captain Clerke and the officers not to go far from the ships.

In the course of the afternoon, the chief asked me, three several times,

if I would not go to the bathing-place; and when he found, at last, that

I could not be prevailed upon, he went off with the rest of his people,

in spite of all I could do or say to stop him. But as I had no suspicion

at this time of their design, I imagined that some sudden fright had

seized them, which would, as usual, soon be over. Finding themselves

disappointed as to me, they fixed on those who were more in their power.

It was fortunate for all parties, that they did not succeed; and not

less fortunate that no mischief was done on the occasion; for not a

musket was fired, except two or three to stop the canoes. To that

firing, perhaps, Messrs. Clerke and Gore owed their safety[11]; for at

that very instant, a party of the natives armed with clubs were

advancing toward them; and on hearing the report of the muskets, they

dispersed.

This conspiracy, as it may be called, was first discovered by a girl,

whom one of the officers had brought from Huaheine. She, overhearing

some of the Ulieteans say, that they would seize Captain Clerke and Mr.

Gore, ran to acquaint the first of our people that she met with. Those

who were charged with the execution of the design threatened to kill

her, as soon as we should leave the island, for disappointing them.

Being aware of this, we contrived that her friends should come some days

after and take her out of the ship, to convey her to a place of safety,

where she might lie concealed, till they should have an opportunity of

sending her back to Huaheine.

On the 27th, our observatories were taken down, and every thing we had

ashore carried on board; the moorings of the ships were cast off, and we

transported them a little way down the harbour, where they came to an

anchor again. Toward the afternoon, the natives began to shake off their

fears, gathering round and on board the ships as usual; and the awkward

transaction of the day before seemed to be forgotten on both sides.

The following night, the wind blew in hard squalls from south to east,

attended with heavy showers of rain. In one of the squalls, the cable,

by which the Resolution was riding, parted just without the hawse. We

had another anchor ready to let go, so that the ship was presently

brought up again. In the afternoon, the wind became moderate; and we

hooked the end of the best small bower cable, and got it again into the

hawse.

Oreo, the chief, being uneasy as well as myself, that no account had

been received from Bolabola, set out this evening for that island, and

desired me to follow down the next day with the ships. This was my

intention; but the wind which kept us in the harbour, brought Oreo back

from Bolabola with the two deserters. They had reached Otaha the same

night they deserted; but finding it impossible to get to any of the

islands to the eastward (which was their intention), for want of wind,

they had proceeded to Bolabola, and from thence to the small island

Toobaee, where they were taken by the father of Pootoe, in consequence

of the first message sent to Opoony. As soon as they were on board, the

three prisoners were released. Thus ended an affair which had given me

much trouble and vexation. Nor would I have exerted myself so resolutely

on the occasion, but for the reason before-mentioned, and to save the

son of a brother officer from being lost to his country.

The wind continued constantly between the north and west, and confined

us in the harbour till eight o’clock in the morning of the 7th of

December; when we took the advantage of a light breeze which then sprung

up at north-east, and with the assistance of all the boats got out to

sea, with the Discovery in company.

During the last week, we had been visited by people from all parts of

the island, who furnished us with a large stock of hogs and green

plantains. So that the time we lay wind-bound in the harbour was not

entirely lost; green plantains being an excellent substitute for bread,

as they will keep good a fortnight or three weeks. Besides this supply

of provisions, we also completed our wood and water.

The inhabitants of Ulietea seemed, in general, smaller and blacker than

those of the other neighbouring islands, and appeared also less orderly,

which, perhaps, may be considered as the consequence of their having

become subject to the natives of Bolabola. Oreo, their chief; is only a

sort of deputy of the sovereign of that island; and the conquest seems

to have lessened the number of subordinate chiefs resident among them;

so that they are less immediately under the inspection of those whose

interest it is to enforce due obedience to authority. Ulietea, though

now reduced to this humiliating state, was formerly, as we were told,

the most eminent of this cluster of islands; and, probably, the first

seat of government; for they say, that the present royal family of

Otaheite is descended from that which reigned here before the late

revolution. Ooroo, the dethroned monarch of Ulietea, was still alive,

when we were at Huaheine, where he resides a royal wanderer, furnishing,

in his person, an instance of the instability of power; but what is more

remarkable, of the respect paid by these people to particular families,

and to the customs which have once conferred sovereignty; for they

suffer Ooroo to preserve all the ensigns which they appropriate to

majesty, though he has lost his dominions.

We saw a similar instance of this while we were at Ulietea. One of the

occasional visitors I now had, was my old friend Oree, the late chief of

Huaheine. He still preserved his consequence; came always at the head of

a numerous body of attendants; and was always provided with such

presents as were very acceptable. This chief looked much better now than

I had ever seen him during either of my former voyages.[12] I could

account for his improving in health as he grew older, only from his

drinking less copiously of the _ava_ in his present station as a private

gentleman, than he had been accustomed to do when he was regent.

CHAP. VIII.

ARRIVAL AT BOLABOLA.—INTERVIEW WITH OPOONY.—REASONS FOR PURCHASING

MONSIEUR BOUGAINVILLE’S ANCHOR.—DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.—

PARTICULARS ABOUT BOLABOLA.—HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF OTAHA AND

ULIETEA.—HIGH REPUTATION OF THE BOLABOLA MEN.—ANIMALS LEFT THERE AND

AT ULIETEA.—PLENTIFUL SUPPLY OF PROVISIONS, AND MANNER OF SALTING PORK

ON BOARD.—VARIOUS REFLECTIONS RELATIVE TO OTAHEITE AND THE SOCIETY

ISLANDS.—ASTRONOMICAL AND NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE THERE.

As soon as we had got clear of the harbour, we took leave of Ulietea,

and steered for Bolabola. The chief if not sole object I had in view by

visiting that island, was to procure from its monarch, Opoony, one of

the anchors which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite. This

having afterward been taken up by the natives there, had, as they

informed me, been sent by them as a present to that chief. My desire to

get possession of it did not arise from our being in want of anchors;

but having expended all the hatchets and other iron tools which we had

brought from England, in purchasing refreshments, we were now reduced to

the necessity of creating a fresh assortment of trading articles, by

fabricating them out of the spare iron we had on board; and, in such

conversions, and in the occasional uses of the ships, great part of that

had been already expended. I thought that M. de Bougainville’s anchor

would supply our want of this useful material; and I made no doubt that

I should be able to tempt Opoony to part with it.

Oreo, and six or eight men more from Ulietea, took a passage with us to

Bolabola. Indeed, most of the natives in general, except the chief

himself, would have gladly taken a passage with us to England. At

sunset, being the length of the south point of Bolabola, we shortened

sail, and spent the night making short boards. At day-break, on the 8th,

we made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of the island.

The wind was scant, so that we had to ply up, and it was nine o’clock

before we got near enough to send away a boat to sound the entrance; for

I had thoughts of running the ships in, and anchoring for a day or two.

When the boat returned, the master who was in her reported, that though,

at the entrance of the harbour the bottom was rocky, there was good

ground within, and the depth of water twenty-seven and twenty-five

fathoms; and that there was room to turn the ships in, the channel being

one-third of a mile broad. In consequence of this report, we attempted

to work the ships in; but the tide, as well as the wind, being against

us, after making two or three trips, I found that it could not be done,

till the tide should turn in our favour. Upon this, I gave up the design

of carrying the ships into the harbour; and having ordered the boats to

be got ready, I embarked in one of them, accompanied by Oreo and his

companions; and was rowed in for the island.

We landed where the natives directed us; and soon after I was introduced

to Opoony, in the midst of a great concourse of people. Having no time

to lose, as soon as the necessary formality of compliments was over, I

asked the chief to give me the anchor, and produced the present I had

prepared for him, consisting of a linen night-gown, a shirt, some gauze

handkerchiefs, a looking-glass, some beads, and other toys, and six

axes. At the sight of these last, there was a general outcry. I could

only guess the cause, by Opoony’s absolutely refusing to receive my

present, till I should get the anchor. He ordered three men to go and

deliver it to me; and, as I understood, I was to send, by them, what I

thought proper in return. With these messengers, we set out in our boats

for an island, lying at the north side of the entrance into the harbour,

where the anchor had been deposited. I found it to be neither so large,

nor so perfect, as I expected. It had originally weighed seven hundred

pounds, according to the mark that was upon it; but the ring, with part

of the shank, and the two points, were now wanting. I was no longer at a

loss to guess the reason of Opoony’s refusing my present. He doubtless

thought that it so much exceeded the value of the anchor in its present

state, that I should be displeased when I saw it. Be this as it may, I

took the anchor as I found it, and sent him every article of the present

that I at first intended. Having thus completed my negociation, I

returned on board; and having hoisted in the boats, made sail from the

island to the north.

While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives came off, in three

or four canoes, to see the ships, as they said. They brought with them a

few cocoa-nuts, and one pig, which was the only one we got at the

island. I make no doubt, however, that, if we had stayed till the next

day, we should have been plentifully supplied with provisions; and, I

think, the natives would feel themselves disappointed, when they found

that we were gone. But as we had already a very good stock both of hogs

and of fruit on board, and very little of any thing left to purchase

more, I could have no inducement to defer any longer the prosecution of

our voyage.

The harbour of Bolabola, called Oteavanooa, situated on the west side of

the island, is one of the most capacious that I ever met with; and

though we did not enter it, it was a satisfaction to me, that I had an

opportunity of employing my people to ascertain its being a proper place

for the reception of ships.[13]

The high double-peaked mountain, which is in the middle of the island,

appeared to be barren on the east side; but on the west side, has trees

or bushes on its most craggy parts. The lower grounds, all round,

towards the sea, are covered with cocoa-palms and bread fruit trees,

like the other islands of this ocean; and the many little islets that

surround it on the inside of the reef, add both to the amount of its

vegetable productions, and to the number of its inhabitants.

But still, when we consider its very small extent, being not more than

eight leagues in compass, it is rather remarkable, that its people

should have attempted, or have been able to achieve the conquest of

Ulietea and Otaha, the former of which islands is, of itself, at least

double its size. In each of my three voyages, we had heard much of the

war that produced this great revolution. The result of our inquiries, as

to the circumstances attending it, may amuse the reader; and I give it

as a specimen of the history of our friends in this part of the world,

as related to us[14] by themselves.

Ulietea and Otaha, which adjoins it, lived long in friendship, or, as

the natives express it, were considered as two brothers, inseparable by

any interested views. They also admitted the island of Huaheine as their

friend, though not so intimate. Otaha, however, like a traitor, leagued

with Bolabola, and they resolved jointly to attack Ulietea; whose people

called in their friends of Huaheine, to assist them against these two

powers. The men of Bolabola were encouraged by a priestess, or rather

prophetess, who foretold, that they should be successful; and as a proof

of the certainty of her prediction, she desired, that a man might be

sent to the sea, at a particular place, where, from a great depth, a

stone would ascend. He went, accordingly, in a canoe to the place

mentioned; and was going to dive to see where this stone lay, when,

behold, it started up to the surface spontaneously into his hand! The

people were astonished at the sight; the stone was deposited as sacred

in the house of the _Eatooa_; and is still preserved at Bolabola, as a

proof of this woman’s influence with the divinity. Their spirits being

thus elevated with the hopes of victory, the canoes of Bolabola set out

to engage those of Ulietea and Huaheine, which being strongly fastened

together with ropes, the encounter lasted long, and would probably,

notwithstanding the prediction and the miracle, have ended in the

overthrow of the Bolabola fleet, if that of Otaha had not, in the

critical moment, arrived. This turned the fortune of the day, and their

enemies were defeated with great slaughter. The men of Bolabola,

prosecuting their victory, invaded Huaheine two days after, which they

knew must be weakly defended, as most of its warriors were absent.

Accordingly, they made themselves masters of that island. But many of

its fugitives having got to Otaheite, there told their lamentable story;

which so grieved those of their countrymen, and of Ulietea, whom they

met with in that island, that they obtained some assistance from them.

They were equipped with only ten fighting canoes; but, though their

force was so inconsiderable, they conducted the expedition with so much

prudence, that they landed at Huaheine at night, when dark, and falling

upon the Bolabola men by surprise killed many of them, forcing the rest

to fly. So that, by this means, they got possession of their island

again, which now remains independent, under the government of its own

chiefs. Immediately after the defeat of the united fleets of Ulietea and

Huaheine, a proposal was made to the Bolabola men by their allies of

Otaha, to be admitted to an equal share of the conquests. The refusal of

this broke the alliance; and in the course of the war, Otaha itself, as

well as Ulietea, was conquered; and both now remain subject to Bolabola;

the chiefs who govern them being only deputies of Opoony, the sovereign

of that island. In the reduction of the two islands, five battles were

fought, at different places, in which great numbers were slain on both

sides.